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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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CIHM/iCMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canrdian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


O' 


Tschnical  and  Bibliographic  Notaa/Notas  tachniquaa  at  bibliographiquas 


Tha  Instituta  hat  anamptad  to  obtain  tha  baat 
original  copy  avaiiabia  for  filming.  Faaturaa  of  thia 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographically  uniqua, 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagaa  in  tha 
raproduction.  or  which  may  significantly  changa 
tha  usual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chackad  balow. 


D 


Colourad  covars/ 
Couvartura  da  coulaur 


I      I   Covars  damagad/ 


Couvartura  andommagia 

□   Covars  rastorad  and/or  laminatad/ 
Couvartura  rastaurte  at/ou  pallicul^ 

□    Covar  titia  missing/ 
La  titra  da  couvartura  manqua 

□    Colourad  maps/ 
Cartas  giographiquaa  an  coulaur 

□    Colourad  inl^  (i.a.  othar  than  blua  or  blacic)/ 
Encra  da  coulaur  (i.a.  autra  qua  blaua  ou  noira) 

□   Colourad  plataa  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planchas  at/ou  illuatrations  tn  coulaur 

□    Bound  with  othar  matarial/ 
Rail*  avac  d'autras  documants 


□    Tight  binding  may  caus«  shadows  or  distortion 
along  intarior  margin/ 

Laraliura  sarr«a  paut  causar  da  t'ombra  ou  da  la 
distorsion  la  long  da  ia  marga  int«riauro 

□    Blank  laavas  addad  during  rastoration  may 
s^ppaar  within  tha  taxt.  Whanavar  possibia.  thasa 
hava  baan  omittad  from  filming/ 
II  sa  paut  qua  cartainas  pagas  blanchas  ajouties 
lors  d'una  rastauration  apparaissant  dans  ia  taxta. 
mais.  lorsqua  cala  italt  possibia.  cas  pagas  n'ont 
pas  «t«  film«as. 


L'Institut  e  microfilm*  la  maillaur  axamplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  «t«  possibia  da  sa  procurer.  Las  details 
da  cat  axampiaira  qui  sont  paut-^tra  utiiquas  du 
point  da  vua  bibliographiqua.  qui  pauvant  modifier 
una  imaga  raproduita.  ou  qui  pauvant  axiger  una 
modification  dans  ia  m«thoda  normaia  da  filmaga 
sont  indiquAs  ci-dassous. 


□  Colour«d  pagaa/ 
Pagaa 


Pagaa  da  coulaur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pagas  endommagtes 


□    Pagas  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurtes  et/ou  peilicuiies 

0    Pagaa  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d«color«es.  tacheties  ou  piqu^es 

□Pages  detached/ 
Pagas  d«tach6es 

rri    Showthrough/ 
1^   Transparence 

□   Quality  of  print  vanes/ 
Qualit*  in«gale  de  ('impression 

□   Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  met«riel  suppiimentaira 

□    Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


rTl    Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
MJ  slips,  tissues,  etc..  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Lea  pages  totalement  ou  partieilement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata.  una  pelure. 
etc..  ont  iti  fiim^s  A  nouveau  de  fa^on  it 
obtenir  la  meilleure  imaga  possible. 


ta 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplAmantaires: 


Various  pagingt.  Wrinkled  pages  may  filmed  slightly  out  of  focus. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqui  ci-dessous. 


10X 

f""! 

14X 

P""^ 

_„^ 

^— n 

18X 

22X 

2»^ 

30X 

_ 

y 

12X 

16X 

aox 

24X 

^""■^ 

2SX 

^^^ 

a2x 

The  copy  filmed  here  ha«  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Nationai  Library  of  Canada 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  (ceeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  iiiustrattd  impres- 
sion, or  the  bacit  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  -^>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

iVIaps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  r/e  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  iiSustrate  the 
method: 


L'exempiaire  film*  fut  reproduit  grAce  d  la 
g<lnirosit*  de: 

Bibiioihdque  nationale  du  Canada 


Lee  Images  suivantas  ont  4t«  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
de  la  nettet«  de  I'exempiaire  film«.  et  en 
conformity  avec  las  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Lee  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprim6e  sont  film6s  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  p^at  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernldre  page  qui  comporte  une  emprsinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  ris.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmte  en  commenpant  par  la 
premiAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaTtra  sur  is 
dernlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  ie 
cas:  le  symbole  — ^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  6tre 
fiimte  A  des  taux  de  reduction  difftrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  6tre 
reproduit  on  un  eeul  ciichA,  il  est  f  ilm6  A  partir 
de  I'angie  sup^rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n^cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
iiiusitrent  la  m^thode. 


1 

2 

...   _| 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

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■«■'''■ 


New  Edition. 


NARRATIVE 


OF  THE 


UNITED    STATES 


EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


DURING  THE  YEARS 


1838,  1839,  1840,  1841,  1842. 


BY 


CHARLES    WILKES,    U.  S.  N. 

COMMANDER  OF  THE  EXPEDITION, 
MEMBER  OF  THE  AMERICAN  PHILOSOPHICAL  SOCIETY,  ETC, 


IN  FIVE  VOLUMES,  WITH  THIRTEEN  MAPS. 

VOL.  1. 


NEW  YORK: 

GEORGE  P.  PUTNAM. 

18  51. 


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9-J 


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1 1 


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<^  TERSD,  ACCORDING  TO  THE  ACT  OF  CONGRESS,  IN  THE  TEAR  1844, 

BY  CHARLES  WILKES,  U.  S.  N., 

IN  THE  CLERK'S  omCK  OF  THE  DISTRICT  COURT  FOR  THE  DISTRICT  OF  COLUMBIA. 


STEREOTVPED  BV  }.  FAOAN. 
PRINTED  BY  C.  SHERMAN. 


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CONTENTS    OF   VOL.    I. 


l*'"! 


CHAPTER    1. 

UKl'ARTURR  FROM  THE  UNITED  STATES  -  VOYAGE  TO  MADEIRA  -  ARRIVAL  A'l 
FUNCHAI.-  AITEARAN'CE  OP  MADEIRA  FROM  THE  SEA -LANDING  „T  FUNCHAL - 
VISIT  TO  TIIIJ  CIVIL  AND  MILITAKV  GOVERNORS- STREETS  AND  SIODE  OF  TRANS- 
I'ORTATION  -CRIMINALS  AND  PRISONS -VILLA  OP  CARVALIIAL -CONVENT - 
RIDES  IN  MADEIRA -n;URRAL- VISIT  OF  SCIENTIFIC  GENTLEMEN  TO  BAN  VIN- 
CENTE- EXCURSION  TOWARDS  THE  EAST  END  OF  THE  ISLAND -STORV  OP  ITS 
DISCOVERY -POPULATION  OF  MADEIRA -WINE -GOVERNMENT- CHARACTER  OF 
THE  INIIABITANTS-DRESS-DVVELLINGS-MODE  OF  TRAVELLING  -  EMPLOYMENTS 
OP  THE  PEOPLE -WINE- MAKING -LOWER  CLASSES -ASCENT  OP  PICO  RUIVO- 
NATtrRAL  IIISTOUY-aUINTA  OP  MR.  BEAN-SCHOONER  STAR  SAVED  FROM  WRECK 
-DEPARTURE  PROM  MADEIRA 3_2^ 


CHAPTER    II. 

SaUADRON  SAILS  FROM  MADEIRA -CURRENTS -SEARCH  FOR  SHOALS  AND  VIGIAS- 
ARRIVAL  AT  ST.  .1  AGO -APPEARANCE  OP  THE  ISLAND -TOWN  OP  PORTO  PRAYA- 
ITS  POPULATION -LANGUAGE -VISIT  TO  THE  GOVERNOR -PUBLIC  FOUNTAIN- 
MARKET-  DRILL  OP  RECRUITS  -  DROUGHTS-CLIMATE-SLAVES-  DRESS-DEP.wV 
TURE    PROM   POUTO    PRAYA-PURTHER    SEARCH  FOR  SHO.\LS.  ETC. -ARRIVAL  AT 

RIO  JANEIRO 

27—41 


II    f 


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^'       V, 


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''tiiruy^ f^  S.tt'^Trn.tf  •fliiirf* 


vi 


CONTENTS. 


r  i 


CHAPTER    III. 

CITY  OP0ANHEBASTrAN_ITS  IMPROVEMENT -ITS  PRESENT  CONDITION -CHURCHES- 

THEMISERlCOnDIA-FUNERALS-EMPERORSBIUTHDAY-AaUEDUCTS-GEOLOGICAL 
CHARACTER  OF  THE  COUNTRY-PUBLIC  GARDEN-MUSEUM-BAY  AND  HARBOUR- 
VEGETATION -BOTANIC  GARDEN -SLAVE  rOPULATION-COFFEE-CARRIERS-RE. 
SEARCHES  INTO  THE  NATION.S  OF  AFRTcA-TREATMENT  OF  SLAVKH-STREETS  OF 
THE  riTY-SOCIETY-VVHITE.JACKET  BALL-APniVAL  OF  THE  RELIEF-ASCENT 
OF  THE  SUGAR.LOAF-SURVEYS-DEFECTS  IN  THE  EaUIPMENT  OF  THE  SaUADRON 
-TRIP  TO  THE  ORGAN  MOUNTAINS  -  JAUNT  TO  PIEDADE  -  CONCLUSION  OP  THE 
SURVEYS  AND  OBSERVATIONS-ASCENT  OP  THE  COItCOVADO 45_„ 


CHAPTER    IV. 


CHARACTER  OF  THE  BRAZILIANS-CONSTITUTION  OF  THE  EMPIRE-RULING  PARTY- 
ELECTIVE  BEGENCY-ADMINISTRATION  OF  JUbTICE- ELECTIVE  FRANCHISE-ARMY 
-NAVV-SCIIOOLS-SLAVERY-FEELING  TOWARDS  FOREIGNERS- POPULATION - 
NATIONAL  DEBT,  REVENUE,  AND  EXPENDITURES -COMMERCE -EVENTS  IN  THE 
SQUADRON-i»EPARTURE  FROM  RIO 


CHAPTER    V. 


i'ASSAGE  TO  RIO  NEGRO- ARRIVAL  THERE -GUACHOS- EXCURSION  OF  THE  NATU- 
RALISTS-SALTAND  SALT  LAKES-GOVERNMENT  AND  POPULATION-PRODUCTIONS 
TARIFF-INDIANS-WANT  OF  ENTERPUISK-DESCUIPTION  OF  THE  COUNTRY-RIVER 
AND  TIDES-CLIMATE- VEGKTATION-TRADE-HAUBOUR-SaUADRON  DRIVEN  TO 
SEA-DANGERS  IN  SURVEYING  -  CONVICT  SETTLEMENT-COMMUNICATION  WITH 
^CESOS  AYRES-DLPAaTURE  FROM  RIO  NEGRO-STATEN  LAND-STRAITS  OF  LE 
MAIRE-APPKARANCG  OF  TERRA  DEL  n  KGO-ITS  nAKI,or:R-PARHKLION_MIRAGE 
-MEETING  WITH  THE  RELIEF-HER  DEPARTURE  FROM  RlO-CCtRENT-RIO  PLATA 
-CAPE  RASA-CAPE  &T.  JOSEPH-CAPE  THREE  POINTS-DREDGING-BELLACO  ROCKS 
-CAPE  ST.  DIKGU-GOOD  SUCCESS  BAV-CAPTAIN  KING'S  SAILING  DIRECTIONS- 
NATIVES- INTERCOURSE  WITH  THEM-nOTANY-GEOGRAPIHCAL  POSITION-NEW 
ISLA.\D-ITS  POSITION-ARRIVAL  AT  ORANGE  HARBOUR-EMPLOYMENTS .J3_116 


1 


J 


CONTENTS. 


VU 


CHAPTER    VI. 

ORANGE  HARBOUR-PLAN  OF  THE  SaUADRONS  OPERATIONS  — NATIVES -THEIR  AP 
PEARANCE-THSIR  HUTS -ARRIVAL  OP  MORE  NATIVES  —  THEIR  TALENT  FOR 
MIMICKRY  — VISIT  TO  THEIR  HUTS  — THEIR  FOOD -SOIL  NEAR  ORANGE  HARBOUR 
—TIDES-WHALES MO— 123 


CHAPTER    VII. 

DEPARTURE  OF  PORPOISE -VniALESHIP  -HEIGHT  OF  WAVES -KING  GEORGE'S  IS- 
LAND-O'BRIEN'S  AND  ASPLAND'S  IS'-ANDS-PALMER'S  LAND-ADVENTURE  ISLETS- 
GALE-SEAGULL  ORDERED  TO  RETURN- RETURN  OF  THE  PORPOISE -ELEPHANT 
ISLAND-GOOD  SUCCESS  BAY-BOAT  DSTAINED-ATTEMPT  TO  RELIEVE-ACCIDENT 
—LIEUTENANT  HARTSTEIN-GAL'3- FURTHER  ATTEMPT  TO  RELIEVE  THE  PARTY- 
PORPOISE  COMPELLED  TO  PUT  TO  SEA-CAPE  ST.  DIEGO-ANCHOR  OFF  IT-RETURN 
TO  GOOD  SUCCESS  BAY-PARTY  JOIN-THEIR  TRANSACTIONS-LEAVE  GOOD  SUC- 
CESS BAY-NASSAU  BAY-DARK  NIGHT-FIND  OURSELVES  AMONG  KELP-ANCHOR- 
NATIVES-REACH  ORANGE  HARBOUR-ALL  WELL-SEAGULL-DECEPTION  ISLAND- 
PENGUINS-SEA  LEOPARD-TEMPERATURE-VISIT  TO  CRATER-FORCE  OP  WIND- 
CAPTAIN  SMILEY-DEPARTURE-ARRIVAL  AT  ORANGE  HARBOUR-SENT  IN  SEARCH 
OF  LAUNCH-LOSS  OP  THAT  BOAT-RETURN  OF  SEAGULL-AGAIN  SAILS  FOR  WOL- 
LASTONS  ISLAND -BAILY  ISLAND -SEAGULL  HARBOUR -ARRIVAL  OF  FLYING- 
'"'^" 133-145 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

DEPARTURE  OP  PEACOCK  AND  FLYING-FISH-GALE-RETURN  TO  ANCHOR-FINAL 
DEPARTURE-DIEGO  RAMIERES-GALE-SEPARATION-DEFECTIVE  OUTFITS  OF  PEA- 
COCK-CURKENT-GALK-ACCIDENT  TO  WILLIAM  STEVVART-HIS  RESCUE-DEATH  - 
FIRST  ICEBERG-DIP  OBSERV.\TIONS-WEATIIER-ICEBERGS  AND  SNOVV-GALE- 
SITUATION  OP  PEACnCK-BIRDS-AURORA  AUSTRALIS-DEEP  SEA  SOUNDING-FOG  - 
PETRELS-^UEAKING  ASUNDER  OF  ICEBERGS-DENSE  FOG-DANGERS-SVOW  STOR  AI 
-OBSERV.\TIONS-FLYING-FISH  REJOINS-LIEUTENANT  WALKERS  REPORT-SITUA- 
'IlOy  OF  VESSELS  -COUNCIL  OP  OFFICERS -CAPTAIN  HUDSON  RESOLVES  TO  RE 
TURN-WEATIIER-AURORA-GALE-SniP  ON   FIRE-FLYINGFISII  DESPATCHED  FOR 


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VUl 


CONTENTS. 


ORANGE  IIARBOIJR-r!AI,i:-ACCIDE\T  TO  ROYAL  IIOI'R-PIIOSPnORESCEXCE  OP  SEA 
-WHALE  SHIP-ARRIVAL  OF  PEACOCK  AT  VALPARAISO-FIND  THE  RELIEP-LIEU 
TEN-ANTCOjniANDANT  LOXC.S  INSTRUCTIONS  -  DIFFICULTIES  ENCOUNTERED  - 
OALE-TOWEU  ROCKS-ANCHOR  UNDER  NOIR  ISLAND-DANGEROUS  POSITION-LOSS 
OF  ANCIIORS-AVVFUL  NIGHT-PART  CABLES-NARROW  ESCAPE-CONDUCT  OP  COM- 
MANDANT AND  OFFICERS-COUNCIL-DETERIMINATION  OP  IT-PROCEED  TO  VALPA- 
RAISO-ARRIVAL OFF  THE  PORT-COMMANDANT  LOCKE,  II.  B.  M.  SHIP  FLY— RELIEF 
ANCHORS-ARRIVAL  OP  PLYING-FISU  AT  ORANGE  HARBOUR-PREPARATIONS  FOR 
DEPARTURE-WINDS-TEMPERATURE-DAROMETRICAL  RANGE-CLIMATE-ANIMALS 
-WOLF-BIRDS-ORANGE  HARBOUR-VINCENNES  AND  PORPOISE  TAKE  THEIR  DE- 
PARTURE-SEAGULL  AND  FLYING-FISH  TO  AWAIT  THE  RELIEF-ANCHOR  IN  SCA- 
PENHAM  BAY-GALE-ORANGE  BAY-FINAL  DEPARTURE -VINCENNES  AND  POR- 
POISE PART  COMPANY -ALBATROSS -DYSENTERY -ISLAND  OP  MOCHA- TRADE 
WINDS-VINCENNES-  ARRIVAL  AT  VALPARAISO-ARRIVAL  OP  PORPOISE  AND  FLY- 
ING-FISH-HEAVY  GALE-SEAGULL  LAST  SEEN-WHALER 149-161 


CHAPTER    IX. 

APPROACH  THE  COAST-CORDILLERAS-VISIT  TO  AUTHORITIES  OP  VALPARAISO - 
LANDING  OP  INSTRUMENTS-CUSTOM-HOUSE  OFFICERS-MR.  COOD-ODSERVATORY- 
G.  G.  HOBSON,  ESa.-NORTHERS-PERCEPTIBLE  CHANGE  IN  THE  BAY-VALPARAISO 
-DESCRIPTION  OF  IT-ITS  ORDER  AND  GOVERNMENT-TRAIT  OP  CHILIANS-POLICE 
-THEIR  SIGNAL-SHOPS-AMUSE.-HENTS-CIIINGANO-DANCES-SAMACUECA-HIGHER 
CLASSES-DRESS-TASTE  FOR  MUSIC-FONDNESS  FOR  FLOWERS-GENERAL  PRIETO 
-HONOURS  PAID  IIIM-BALL-DESCRIPTION  OP  IT 10,5-173 


CHAPTER    X. 

JOURNEY  INTO  THE  INTERIOR-BILOCIIES-TRAVELLING-CASA  BLANCA-GEOLOOI. 
C.VL  FORMATION -CURACOVI- HEATH  ABOVE  THE  SEA-CUESTA  DE  ZAPATA - 
CUESTA  DEi,  I'RADA- ROADS -TRANSPORTATION  OP  GOODS-BEGGARS-PLAIN  OF 
MAYPO -CORDILLERAS -ST.  JAGO -MINT -LIBRARY- AMUSEMENTS- FASHIONS- 
MARKET- CLI.MATE- EXCURSION  TO  THE  CORDILLERAS -:\IOL'\TAIN  SIJENERY- 
SNOVV-GUANACOES-HEAT-RETURN  TO  ST.  JAGO-.-MAYPOCHO-JOURNl'.Y  TO  SAN 
FELIPE -QUILLOTA-TUPONG ATI  PEAK- DIKES -EVANGELISTO  CELIDONO-FARM- 
IIOUSE-CATCIIING  WILD  HORSES-RANGHO-ENTERTAINMENT-ARRIVAL  AT  SAN 
FELIPE  DE  .\CONCAGUA-MR.  NEWMAN'S-:*!!!,  CHASE-TOWN  OF  SAN  FELIPE - 
CHICIIA  AND  AGUARDIENTE-THEIR  MAN'JPACTURE-ACRICULTUKAL  IMPLEMENTS 


CONTENTS. 


IX 


-VISIT  THE  COPPEU  MINES -MODES  OP  WORKING  THEM— THEIR  SITUATION  — 
TRANSPORTATION  OF  ORES-VV ACES-TEMPERANCE  REGULATIONS-LAKE  ON  THE 
HIGH  COItDILLERAS-CUPPER  ORES-RETURN  TO  SAN  FELIPE-KINDNESS  OF  MR, 
NEWMAN  AND  LADY-CELIDONO-aUILLOTA-RETURN  TO  VALPARAISO-EARTH- 
QUAKES-PROTESTANT  CHURCH -LIIJERALITY  OP  PRIESTHOOD- ORAUION  — COM 
MERGE  -  EXPORTS  —  IMPORTS  —  FOREIGN  VESSELS  —  POPULATION  -COLLEGES  —  CON- 
GRESS-IMPROVEMENTS IN  PROGRESS  — REVENUE  — NATIONAL  DEBT  — CLIMATE- 
FRUITS-ADMINISTRATION-EXECUTIVE-SENATE-HOUSE  OF  DEPUTIES-MILITIA- 
ARMY-NAVY-G-  G.  IIOBSON,  ESQ.,  U,  S.  CONSUL— LIEUTENANT  CRAVEN— HIS  GAL- 
LANT CONDUCT-CAPTAIN  ISAAC  M'KEEVER-U.  S.  SHIP  FALMOUTII-FLYINGFISH- 
GALE-SEA-GULL  LAST  SEEN-HER  LOSS-PASSED  JIIDSIIIPMAN  JAMES  W.  E.  KEID- 
PASSED  MIDSHIPMAN  FREDERICK  A.  BAC0N-ADMINI3TRATI0?  OF  GOVERNMENT 
OF  CHILI 177-2U8 


CHAPTER    XI. 


WANT  OP  CORRECT  HISTORICAL  RECORDS -OHIGGINS  DECLARED  SUPREME  DICTA 
TOR-RESIGNS  IN  1823-COUNCIL  OF  STATE  APPOINTED-GENERAL  FREYRE  LANDS 
AT  VALPARAISO— ARREST  OF  O'HIGGINS-HIS  RELEASE-GENERAL  RAMON  FREYIIE 
ASSUMES  THE  GOVERNMENT— RETIRES  TO  PRIVATE  LIFE-ADMIRAL  BLANCO  PKC- 
SIDENT— BLANCO  RESIGNS— SUCCEEDED  BY  VICE-PRESIDENT- HIS  RESIGNATION  ■ 
FREVRE  AGAIN  CHOSEN  PRESIDENT- FREVRE  UESIGNS-PRIETO  BECOJIES  l'lii>'. 
DENT  — RES1GN3-PRESIDENT  OF  THE  SENATE  ACTS-ELECTION  HELD-PUIKrn 
ELECTED  — REFUSES  TO  SERVE  — VICUNEA  PRESIDENT  OF  SENATE  — TROlilSLEs- 
JUNTA  APPOINTED -CIVIL  WAR  — ABANDONMENT  OF  THE  CAPITAL- FliEVRE 
CALLED  IN-JOINS  THE  PRESIDENT'S  PARTY— BAIl'LE  OF  LIRCAI,  APRIL,  lt-:)()-l)E- 
FEAT  OF  FUEYRE— HIS  BANISHMENT  TO  PERU- NEW  ELECTION-DUN  FRANCISCO 
TAGLE  RETURNED  AS  PRESIDENT-OVALLE  AS  VICE  PRESIDENT-BOTH  RESIGN- 
PRESIDENT  OF  SENATE  AGAIN  ACTS-NEW  ELECTION-GENERAL  PRIETU  ELECIED, 
JULY,  l!:31-STATE  OF  THE  COUNTRY-IIIS  AD.MINISTIIATION-DIEGO  P0RTALE3- 
-SYSTEM  OF  REFORM -MILITIA  SYSTEM -ErfTAULISllKS  PUBLIC  CREDIT -CIVIL 
RULE-TKANSACTIONS  WITH  PERU-RATIFICATION  OF  TREATY,  AND  RECEPTION 
OF  MINISTER-CIVIL  WAR  IN  PERU-DEFEAT  OF  SALAVEURY-NEW  ORGANIZATION 
OF  PERUVIAN  GOVERNMENT-llUPTURF,  BETWEEN  CHILI  AND  PERU-SECRET  EXPE 
DITION  UNDER  GENERAL  FREYRE-INTELLIOEXCE  OF  IT  RECEIVED  IN  CHILI-AC 
TIVri'Y  OF  GOVERNMENT-CAPTURE  OF  FREYUE-HIS  SECOND  BANISHMENT-POPU 
LAUITY  OF  THE  ADMINISTRATION-SEIZURE  OF  PERUVIAN  VfiSSELS-SUSPENSIUN 
OF  HOSTILITIES-CONVENTION-CHIH  REFUSES  TO  RATIFY  THE  PROCEEDINGS  - 
CHILI  SENDS  HER  FLEET-CHILI  DECLARES  WAR-EXPEDITION  ORGAMZED-DE 
CREE  OF  PRESIDENT  PRIETO-EXPEDITION  FITTED  OUT  UNDER  AD,>IIRAL  BLANCO 
-TROOPS'  QUARTERED  AT  QUILLOTA-PORTALES'  INSPECTION  OF  TROOPS-IIIS  AR. 
REST-VIDAURRE  S  JIUTINY-ACTA  OF  OFFICERS-NEWS  REACHES  VALPARAISO- 
VOL.  I.  2  B 


I 


K  CONTENTS. 

CONSTEBNATiON- CONDUCT  OF  MILITIA -VIDAURUES  DEMANDS  -  POHTALES 
NOBLE  CONDUCT-VIDAUIUIE  9  ATTACK  ON  VALPARAIS0-HI3  DEFEAT  AND  FLIGHT 
-PORTALES'  DEATII-VIDACRKE  CAI'TURED  AND  DROUGHT  TO  VALPAUAISO-TUIAL 
AND  EXECUTION-EXPEDITION  SAILS  TO  PERU-ITS  FAILURE-TREATV  O  PAUCAlJ 
PATA-EXPEDITION  RETURNS-BLANCO  DEPRIVED  OF  HIS  COMMAND -UULNES- 
NEW  EXPEDITION-ITS  DEPARTURE _ .„ ,    .^,- 

-41 1  — 'Jvu 


CHAPTER    XII. 

PORPOISE    SAILS-ASTRONOMICAL    OUSERVATIONS-DIFFICULTIKS   OF    LEAVING  THE 
BAY-REGULATIONS    OF   PORT    BADLY    OBSERVED-CONDUCT   OF    THE   CAPTAIN  OF 
HAMBURG   VESSEL-DEPARTURE-PART    COMPANY  WITH    PEACOCK    AND   TENDER- 
EVENTS  ON    PASSAGE   TO  CALLAO-ZODIACAL  LIGHTS-MAKE   THE  COAST  OF  PERU 
-TEMPERATURE  OF  WATER-ENTER   BOUaUEItON    PASSAGE-ANCHOR    AT  SAN  LO- 
RENZO-GEOLOGICAL  STRUCTURE  OF  ISLAND-BURYINGGROUND-ARKIVAL  OF  FAL- 
MOUTH-CAPTAIN   M'KEEVER-HIS   KINDNESS-DESERTERS-CONDUCT  OF  CREW    OF 
RELIKF-PUNISHMENT-EFFECTUAL  SUPPRESSION   OF    SUCH    CONDUCT-COURTMAR. 
TIAL-JUSTIFICATION-CHANGE   OF   ANCHORAGE   TO  CALLAO-HKIGHT    OF    LIMA- 
MOr.E-CALI.AO-VESSEI.S   IN    PORT-CASTLE-DESCRIPTION  OF  IIOIJSKS-RELIOIO.JS 
PRACTICES- MARKET^    KEVIEW   OF  TROOPS-OLD    CA LI. AO  -  EFFECTS  OF  EARTH- 
QUAKE-VAULTS    FOR    DEPOSITING  THE    DEAD-POPULATION  OF  CALLAO-FOI.RTH 
OF  JUTA'-ROAD  TO  LIMA-DEVASTATIONS-BI-LLA  VISTA-APPROACH  TO  LIMA-EN- 
TRANCE    AND    APPEARANCE-ITS     PLAN- AMUSEMENTS-SAYA    AND    MANTA-ITS 
PRIVILEGES- DESCRIPTION    OF    IT- IIOUSKS- PORTALES    OR    ARCADES-PALACE - 
FOUNTAIN -CATHEDRAL-CRYPT -NOVEL   HEARSE-MARKET- CONVENT  OF  SAN 
FRANCISCO-LIBRARY-SIGNATURE   OF     PIZARRO-FOUNDING   OF    LIMA-THEATRE- 
NAVAL   SCHOOL-CLASSES   OF    NATIVES-POPULATION-NEWSPAPERS-HANDBILLS- 
FESTIVAL-CORPUS    CHRISTI-MR.    MATHEWS-MANUFACTORIE3-FESTIVAL    OF    ST. 
JOHN'S- AMANCAES  -  CELEBRATION  -  EARTHaUAKES-EFFECTS  PRODUCED-G  ATE 
WAY  OF  NAVAL  SCHOOL-CLIMATE-RAIN-MEAN  TEMPERATURK-IIEAI.TH-UI.maC 
-IRRIGATION-HARVEST-CHILIAN  ARMY-STATE  OF    THE    COUNTRY-MANNER  OF 
RECRUITING   THE   ARMY-TREATMENT  OP  SLAVES-DEATH    OF  BENJAMIN  HOLDEN 
-aMALL-PO.\-PRECAUTIONS  ADOPTED -m-^iO 


CHAPTER    XIII. 


A  PARTY  FOR  THE  INTERIOR-PREPARATIONS  FOR  THE  J0UR\EY-PASSI'01!TS-MR. 
BIGGS-DEPARTLKE-EFFEUT  OF  OFFICIAL  PAPERS-FACK  OF  C()LNTRV-R(  1\S  OF 
lACA  TUU  ,\S-PO\CHOUUA-CABALLER0S-C0\VOV   OF  SILVER-ACCOMMODATIONS 


>& 


CONTENTS, 


Xi 


-EAnTHatJAKR-HOUTE  UP  THE  VAIJ.EY   OF  CAXAV1I,I,0-FACE  OP  COUNTRY-ST. 
ROSA  DE  QIIIVF-YASO-OnUAJlLLO-DIPFICUhTIES  IN  PROCURING    MUI.nS-REAUTY 
OF    SITUATION-LLAMAS-RIOTERS-PLUNDERING    OP     INIIAIilTANTa-CUl.NAI -LA 
VINDA-VfiOETATION-MUI.ETEERS     ENCOUNTERED -REACH    THE   CREST   OP   THE 
CORDIM.ERAS-CASA    CANCIIA-IT9  ACCOMMODATIONS-COOKINO   RANCE-SICKNESa 
OP    PARTY-igNOW  STORM-ALPAMARCA-COMPANY   OP   PERUVIANS-TIIEIR  ATTEN- 
TIONS-PROCESg  OF   AMALGAMATION  OP  ORE-MR.  DEVAN-VISIT    TO  THE    MINE- 
FACE    OP    THE    MOUNTAIN-ROAD-BANOS-HOT   SPRING-REAUTY  OP  VAI,EEY-VE- 
GETATION-THREATENED  ATTACK  OP  A  CONDOR-PORTRAIT-INCIDENTS  RELATING 
TO  IT-DESCRIPTION  OP  BAN0S-1T3  IIARITATIONS-STATE  OP  HORSES-RETURN  TO 
CA3A    CAiVOHA-CHILfAN   CONVOY   FROM    PASCO-PASCO-MINES-VEINS    OP    ORE- 
NUMDER  OF  MINES  IN  OPERATION-LAWS  IN  RELATION  TO  SILVER  MINED-DUTIES 
-HILL   OP    RACC-NEW   SPECULATIONS    IN    I8I0  -  DIFFICULTIES    IN    PURCHASING 
MINi-^S-THE    POLITICAL  STATE    OF  THE   COUNTRY    ADVERSE  TO   THIS   RUSINESS- 
TEMPERATURE-BEAUTY  OF  SITUATION  OF  CASA  CANCHA-THEIR  DEPARTURE  ON 
THEIR  RETURN-LINE  OF  PERPETUAL   SNOW-AMMONITE-CHICRINE-TRAVELLING 
PARTIES  -  FRENCHMAN-HIS  COMPLIMENTS-CULNAI-CULTIVATION-HOSPITALITY 
-ORRAJILLO-ACCO.MMODATIONS-WANT  OF  GALLANTRY-OUIDES-SETTLEMENT- 
BRIDAL   PARTY-YASO-RODDERY-YANGA-HOSTESS-ANGELITA-CAIIALLEROS-RE- 
TURN  TO  LIMA-BOTANICAL  REVIEW  -GEOLOGICAL   CHARACTER   OP  THE  COUNTRY 
-PLYING  PISH  SENT    TO   PACIIACAMAC-LANDING-TEMPLE-T0WN-T0MB3-TIIEIR 
CONTENTS-EMBARKATION-RETURN  TO  CALLAO 25J-281 


CHAPTER    XIV. 


SELF-AGGRANDIZEMENT  THE  OBJECT  OF  RULERS-END  OF  REVOLUTIONARY  WAR- 
GENERAL  BOLIVAR  DICTATOR-HIS  AUTHORITY  CEASES-GENERAL  LA  MAR  ELECTED 
-GAMARRAS  TREACHERY-LA  MAR  ARRESTED  AND  BANISHED-GAMARRA  AND 
LAPUENTE  ELECTED-ATTEMPTS  TO  SEIZE  LAFUENTE-HIS  ESCAPE-EXECUTION 
OF  MAJOR  ROSEL  -  CONVENTION  CONVOKED  -  GAMARR  A  RESIGNS  -  OR BEJOSO 
ELECTED -REVOLUTION  BY  BERMUDEZ  AND  GAMARRA -BERMUDEZ  CAPTURED - 
ORi'EjrsO'S  AUTHORITY  RESTORED-SALAVERRY  REVOLTS -DECLARES  IIIMSELP 
SUPREME  DICTATOR-UNITES  WITH  GAMARRA-GAMARRA  DEFEATED -^ARRESTED 
BY  SALAVERRY  AND  BANISHED-SALAVERRY  MARCHES  AGAINST  SANTA  CRUZ- 
BATTLE  OF  SOCABAYA-SALAVERRY  DEf  EATED-TAKEN  PRISONER-TRIED  AND 
SHOT-ORBEJOSO  REINSTATED-TREATY  WITH  CHILI  NULLIPIED-SANTA  CRUZ'S 
INTRIGUES- DISMEMBERMENT  OP  PERU- ASSEMBLY  OP  PICUANI -SANTA  CRUZ 
NAMED  SUPREME  PROTECTOR-CONVF  VTION  OP  IIUARA-GENERAL  FREVRE  FITS 
OUT  AN  EXPRDITION-CHILIAN  C0\  i\  .ENERAL  EVADES  THE  EMBARGO-SEI- 
ZURE  OF  PERUVIAN  VESSELP-NEGOTIATION-fJESSATION  OP  IIOSTILITIES-INVA 
SION    OP    ALTA   PERU-DISASTROUS    CAMPAIGN-TREATY   OP    PEACE-RETURN    OP 


Kf 


x;.i 


CONTENTS, 


r  i 


CHILIAN  ARMY-CHILIAN  GOVEHNMENT  REFUSES  TO  RATIFY  THE  TREATY-LE 
GION  OF  HONOUR -DISCONTENT  AT  SANTA  CRUZS  POLICY -WAR  AGAIN  COM 
MENCED-EXPEDITION  FROM  CHILI-INVASION  OP  PERU-BATTLE  OP  LIMA-LIMA 
TAKEN -OUliiC.IOSO  ESCAPES  -  GAMARRA  NAMED  PRESIDENT  -  SANTA  CRUZ 
MARCHES  UPON  LIMA-CHILIANS  EMBARK-LAND  AT  HUARA-PURSUED  BY  SANT^ 
CRUZ-BATTLE  OP  YUNGAI-SANTA  CRUZ  TOTALLY  DEFEATED-ESCAPE3  TO  LIMA 
-THENCE  TO  AREaUIPA-SEEKS  REFUGE  ON  BOARD  A  BRITISH  SHIP  OF  VVAR- 
BULNES  SAILS  AGAIN  FOR  CALLAO-DISEMBARKS  HIS  TUOOPS-TAKES  POSSESSION 
OF  LIMA -CONGRESS  CONVOKED-GAMARRA  ELECTED  PRESIDENT-RESULTS  OF 
BATTLE  OF  YUNGAI-BULNES  WITH  HIS  ARMY  RETURNS  TO  CHILWMMAURA  GOES 
TO    AID    BOLIVIA-HIS    FORCES     ROUTED.    AND   HIMSELF    KILLED-CHARACTER    OP 

BOLIVAR-LA  MAR-GAMARRA-LAFUENTE-ORBEJOSO-SALAVERRY-SANTA    CRUZ 
-HIS   ACTS-CO.MMERCE-PERU  ANI  CHILI-IMPORTS-EXPORTS-TRADE  WITH  THE 

UNITED  STATES 

285—304 


CHAPTER    XV. 

STORE-SHIP  RELIEF-EDWIN  BARTLETT,  KSa.-EDWARD  M'CALL,  ESQ.-DEPARTURE- 
CAPTAIN    M'KEKVER-PERUVIAN    BRIG-SMALL-POX -GENERAL  ORDER -PROPOSED 
ROUTE  -  CURRENTS  -  EXPERIMENTS  -  TEMPERATURE  -ALEXANDER   OGLE  -  CLER- 
MONT DE   TONNKRHE-APPEARANCE    OF    IT-SURVEY-NATIVES-JOHN   SAC-DIFFI. 
CULTIES   WITH    NATIVES-LANDING-SERLE    ISLAND -HONDEN- SURVEYS- CORAL 
ISLANDS-VEGETATION-niRDS.    ETC.-DISAPPOINTMENT   ISLANDS-INIIAniTANTS- 
WYTOOHEE-OTOOHO-TAIARO-  RARAKA-LANDING-ONEHANDED  CHIEF-HIS  VI«IT 
TO    THE    SHIP-IMIABITANTS-CATCIIING     FIS'I  -  LEAVE-TAKING  -  GALE-NARROW 
ESCAPE   OP    PEACOCK-PORPOISE  DESPATCHED-VINCENNES   ISLAND-CRITIC  M     PO 
SITION  OF   TENDER-LANDING-ARATICA    ISLAND-COMMUNICATION  WITH  ITS  IN 
HAmTANTS-LANDING-VILLAGE-DESCRIPTION   OP   ISLAND-FRESH  WATER-FOOD 
-TENDER  DESPATCHED  TO  KING  GEORGES  GR0UP-VINCENNE3  AND   PEACOCK  DI^ 
COVER  MANHII  AND  AH.'I  ISI-ANDS-SURVEY-LANDING-OBSERVATIONS-NATIVES- 
DESERTER- ECLIPSE- PEACOCK    DESPATCHED    TO    RURICK    ISLAND -VINCENNES 
PASSES    TO    NAIRSA-INHABITA.TS-KRUSENSTERNS    ISLAND-METIA    ISLAND-ITS 

APPEARANCE-SURVEY-LANDING-NATlvjS-MrSSIONARIES-  KINDNESS-COSTUMES 
-ASCEND  THE  ISLAND-VEGETATION-APPEARANCE  OP  THE  ISLAND-DEPARTURE 
-ARRIVAL  AT  TAHITI- ANCHOR  IV  MATAVAI  BAY -OBSERVATIONS  ON  PniN'j' 
VENUS-PROCEEDINGS  OP  PORPOISE-PROCEEDINGS  OF  PEACOCK-ARUTUA-SFRVEY 
-NAIRSA  OR  DEANS  ISLAND-CORAL  BLOCKS-METIA  IST,AND-0RSERVAT10N9 
TETUAROA-FLYING.PISH-TIOKEA  AND  OURA-IHSTORY  OF  PAUMOTU  GROUP-CHA 

RACTER  OF  ITS  INHABITANTS-POPULATION ^, 

307—345 


INTRODUCTION. 


""€4 


-m 


The  Expedition,  a  narrative  of  the  operations  of  which  is  no'v  laid  before 
the  public,  was  the  first,  and  is  still  the  only  one  fitted  out  by  national  munifi- 
cenco  for  scientific  objects,  that  has  ever  left  our  shores.  It  would,  therefore, 
appear  proper  that  a  more  minute  account  of  its  outfit  should  be  given,  than 
could  be  expected  of  one  despatched  by  an  older  nation.  This  is  more  particu- 
larly the  case,  as  a  great  part  of  the  difficulties  it  had  to  encounter,  occurred 
previously  to  its  sailing.  I  would  not,  however,  have  the  reader  to  believe  that 
I  intend  to  enter  into  details  of  transactions  of  which,  perhaps,  no  one  knows  the 
origin,  or  to  speculate  on  the  causes  that  operated  to  prevent  its  sailing  within  a 
reasonable  time  after  the  passage  of  the  Act  of  Congress  directing  it  to'be  under- 
tnken. 

The  command  of  the  Exploring  Expedition  devolved  upon  me,  by  orders  from 
the  Hon.  JIahlon  Dickerson,  then  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  on  the  20th  March, 
1838.  At  that  time,  great  confusion  existed  in  its  organization.  It  is  unneces-' 
sary,  and  would  be  out  of  place  here,  to  enter  into  its  previous  history.  It  is 
sufficient  to  refer  to  the  flxct,  that  it  had  alreadj  been  denounced  as  an  entire  and 
complete  failure,  and  that  I  was  instructed  to  organize  it  anew. 

Whatever  others  are  disposed  to  think,  I  am  inclined  to  believe,  that  the 
originating,  getting  up,  and  getting  off  a  first  National  Expedition,  is  a  work  of 
no  small  difficulty,  and  this  is  much  increased  by  the  public  thinkincr,  talkincrof. 

2*  DO? 

(xiil) 


Lt 


xiv 


I  N  T  R  O  I)  IJ  c;  T  I  O  N. 


and  iiitorfi.ring  too  much  witli  it.  I  li:lt  this  iiiyscU',  allliouyh  it  did  not  cause 
inc  much  diliiculty.  The  HucccHsivu  nsiynutions  of  the  dilForcnt  olliccr.s  who 
had  been  iipjwiiitcd  to  tiic  command,  led  every  body  to  look  upon  it  witjj  dis- 
gust, and,  in  consoqucnte,  my  road  was  clear,  or  comparatively  unembarrassed. 
The  very  state  of  things  that  brought  the  Expedition  into  general  disrepute,  was 
of  gri!Ut  advantage  to  me,  for  I  was  left  to  perform  my  duties  unmolested.  Oni; 
of  the  dilTicultics  I  liatl  to  encounter,  was  to  make  a  selection  from  the  numerous 
articles  providcu,  and  this  was  a  work  of  no  ordinary  kind.  They  may  have 
been  all  useful,  and  perhaps  necessary  for  a  larger  Squadron ;  but  if  all  had 
been  embarked,  every  vessel  of  the  Scjuadron  would  have  been  fdlcd.  Every 
expense  that  could  be  lavished  on  its  equipment  had  been  incurred.  One  rule  of 
action  soon  brouglit  me  to  dispose  of  lh<;  whole  :  this  was  the  capacity  to  sCow 
them;  and  parts  of  each  were  accordingly  selected  for  the  new  order  of  things. 

On  the  iiOth  of  April,  I  was  informed  that  the  vessels  appointed  for  this  ser- 
vice were  the  sloops  of  war  VinceniU's  and  Peacock,  the  brig  Porpoise,  and 
store-ship  Relief.  The  tenders  Sea-GuU  and  Flying-Fish  were  subsequently 
added. 

The  Relief  was  the  only  one  of  the  vessels  that  had  belonged  to  the  original 
Squadron. 

On  this  reduction  of  force,  it  became  necessary  to  change  the  organization, 
not  only  in  point  of  numbers,  but  also  to  bring  the  officers  into  more  intimatt 
connexion  with  the  scientific  duties. 

This  was  done  by  placing  all  those  departments  that  in  any  way  ajipcrtained 
or  belonged  to  our  profession  under  my  direction,  with  officers  of  the  navy  for 
assistants.  The  size  and  accommodation  of  tlio  vessels  naturally  led  to  the 
reduction  of  those  departments  that  were  pl-iccd  under  the  corps  of  civilians, 
including  naturalists  as  well  as  artists.  As  many  of  these  were  taken  as  could 
be  accommodated.  The  selection  was  made  with  much  deliberation,  and  with 
great  impartiality.  Reference  was  had  to  the  departments  in  which  results  were 
most  to  be  expected,  and  most  desired  by  the  country.  The  only  new  one 
added  was  the  Horticulturist  and  Assistant-Botanist,  Air.  Brackcnridixc. 

Aflcr  the  20th  of  April,  every  exertion  was  made  to  forward  the  various  out- 
fits. By  the  7th  July,  tjic  Vincennes  and  Peacock  were  taken  charge  of,  and 
dropped  down  between  the  forts  at  Norfolk,  and  it  was  determined  that  the 
Squadron  should  rendezvous  in  Hampton  Roads.  On  the  following  day,  the 
seamen  were  transferred  from  the  Macedonian,  which  had  been  the  flag-ship 
under  the  original  organization.     I  felt  some  solicitude  about  the  crews.     They 


t 


III 


did  not  cause 
t  olli(;r.'r.s  who 
uii  it  witii  dis- 
iictnburrussL'd. 
disrepute,  wus 
lolested.     One 

ilie  numerous 
liey  may  linvc 
but  if  all  had 
fdled.  Every 
.  One  rule  of 
ipaeity  to  stow 
rdor  of  things, 
-'d  for  this  ser- 

Porpoise,  and 
subsequently 

to  the  original 

!  organization, 
more  intimatt 

ly  aj)pcrtaincd 
r  the  navy  for 
lly  led  to  the 
s  of  civilians, 
taken  as  could 
ition,  and  with 
;h  results  were 
ordy  new  one 
■idge, 

le  various  out- 
diargc  of,  and 
nined  that  the 
iwing  day,  the 
tlie  flag-ship 
^rows.    They 


i 

I 


INTRODUCTION. 

had  boon  a  long  time  ship,,ed,  and  had  nmni/ested  their  discontent  in  a  letter 
addressed  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  in  which  they  objected  to  being  trans- 
^•rred  to  a  younger  and  new  set  of  o/Heers.     The  plan  I  adopted  was  at  once  to 
•send  them  on  shore  on  lil..rty,  and  thus  show  entire  confidence  in  thom      To 
my  great  surprise,  they  returned,  to  a  man,  showing  that  no  disposition  adverse 
to  the  service  existed  among  them,  and  that  the  bad  feeling  was  nothing  more 
|l.nn  what  might  naturally  be  expected  to  res.lt  from  a  long  confinement  on 
board  of  a  ship,  in  sight  of  their  homes,  and  the  constant  disappointment  they 
had  met  with  in  a  delayed  departure.     From  this  circumstance,  and  the  pros- 
poet  of  no  fi,r,her  detention,  their  spirits  revived,  and  great  activity  prevailed  in 
nil  the  d.parfnH.nfs  to  f^,rward  the  preparations.     All  the  instruments  had  been 
brought  from   Now  York  in  the  Macedonian,  under  core  of  Lieutenant  Carr 
I  art   of  ,lK.m,   ir.duding   the   Chronometers,    had   been  landed  at  the  Nava. 
Asylum,  where  a  Portable  Transit  had  been  put  up,  for  rating   them.     The 
mstruments  appertaining  to  Magnetism  and  the  Pendulums  were   carried   to 
V\  ashington,  to  make  the  necessary  experiments. 

The  depot  of  charts  and  instruments  on  Capitol  Hill,  was  selected  to  make 
the^senes  of  observations  at.     These  occupied  my  own  time  until  sailin. 

On  the  .>Oth  of  July,  Martin  Van  Buren,  the  President  of  the  United  States 

accompanied  by  Mr.  Paulding,  Secretary  of  ,he  Navy,  and  Mr.  Poinsett,  Secre-' 

ary  of  \\  ar,  did  us  the  honour  to  visit  the  Vincennes.     On  this  occasion,  and 

the  only  one  during  the  continuance  of  my  command,  a  salute  was  fired,  (none 

of  .1,0  mstruments  had  then  been  embarked,)  by  all  the  vessels,  and  the  yards 

-re   manned.     This  produced  a  good  effect  on  all,  for  it  showed  us  that  a 

watchful  eye  was  kept  over  us,  and  that  mnch  interest  was  felt  in  the  under- 

akmg.     This  visit  formed  an  epoch  to  which  I  oflen  heard  reference   made 

.^unng  the  cruise.     Few  are  able  to  estimate  the  feelings  of  satisfaction  that  such 

acts  occasion  to  those  engaged  in  undertakings  like  this 

I  shall  now  proceed  to  give  a  description  of  the  -.essels  that  composed  the 
bquadron.  ' 

The  Vincennes  was  a  sloop  of  war,  of  seven  hundred  and  eighty  tons,  onVi- 

put  on  her  for  the  protect.on  of  the  men,  and  to  afford  more  room.     The  accom- 
modations thus  became  those  of  a  small  frigate 
The  Peacock  was  of  smaller  size,  a  slo^p  of  war  of  s,x  hundred  and  fiflv 

2r::^T  '7  ""^  ^""^"  ''  ""'  ''^^'  "  '-^^  "■-  ^"-  or  the  Vin' 
cennes.     She  had  made  two  cruises  previous  to  her  sailing  in  1838. 


XVI 


INTRODUCTION. 


m 


Tho  Porpoise,  a  guii-brig  of  two  hundred  uiid  tliirty  tons.  Tho  experience  1 
hud  had  in  tliis  vessel  induced  nio  to  ask  for  un  ulterution,  wliich  was  made,  ana 
added  niueli  to  iier  safety,  as  well  as  increased  lier  uccommodations.  This  was 
to  build  11  poop-cabin  and  a  forecastle  on  her  deck. 

Tho  tenders  Sea-Gull  and  Flyiny-Fisli  were  New  York  pilot-boats.  The 
fornuT  hud  been  known  as  the  New  Jersey,  of  one  hundred  and  ten  tons ;  tho 
latter  as  the  Indei)endence,  of  nincty-six  tons.  They  were  purchased  on  the  3d 
vjl"  Auyust.  Their  masts,  sails,  &c.,  were  reduced,  and  their  outfits  completed 
in  the  short  space  of  three  days,  by  those  enterprising  shipwrights,  Messrs. 
Webb  and  Allen  of  New  York,  to  whom  much  credit  is  due.  They  joined  the 
Squadron  on  the  12th  of  August,  in  Hampton  lloads. 

The  Relief  was  a  new  vessel,  originully  intended  for  a  store-ship  for  tho 
Navy,  but  jiad  been  transferred  to  the  E.\pediti'jn  on  being  luunehed.  She  was 
built  lor  carrying,  and  her  slow  rate  of  sailing  made  her  ill  adapted  for  the 
cruise. 

The  Expedition  is  mucli  indebted  to  Commodore  Ridgely  and  the  odicers  ol 
tho  Brooklyn  Navy- Yard.  To  Commodore  Downes  and  Captain  Percival,  of 
the  Boston  Navy-Yard,  we  are  also  unde.-  great  obligations.  The  bouts  i)re- 
parcd  under  tho  direction  of  the  last  Jiaiiied  officers,  were  found  to  b-  well 
adapted  lor  the  service.  They  were  all  clinker-built,  with  the  exception  of  the 
launches,  and  of  the  description  used  by  winders  and  S(,'alers. 

After  the  Peacock's  return  in  1837,  she  had  undergone  little  or  no  repairs. 
Her  bottom  was  indeed  sound,  being  built  ol'  live-oak,  but  her  upper-works  were 
worn  and  much  decayed,  as  the  sequel  proved.  After  this  vcsscjI  lell  the  Navy- 
Yard  at  Norfolk,  her  fore  and  cro.ss-juckyards  were  found  by  her  C(jnunauder  to 
be  rotten.  On  its  being  reported  to  the  conunandant  of  the  yard,  thi;y  were 
ordered  to  be  replaced,  and  all  the  other  defects  partially  remedied. 

The  carpenter  of  the  Washington  Navy- Yard,  Mr.  J.  II.  Sinoot,  built  for  me, 
under  order  of  the  Commissioners  of  the  Navy,  a  very  eon\eiii(  iit  p(jrtable  pen- 
dulum-house and  observatory,  which  answered  every  purpose  for  w  liieh  it  was 
intended. 

Tho  organization  of  this  Expedition  has  frecp.iently  beoLi  a  subject  of  remark. 
1  have  therefore  obtained  all  the  papers  that  passed  between  the  government  ami 
Captain  Hudson,  in  i-clation  to  it,  prior  to  his  accepting  the  position  ho  oeciqiied. 
They  form,  with  a  few  remarks,  the  first  pages  of  the  A^jpejidix  t(j  this  volume, 
and  will  place  the  whole  in  its  true  light. 

The  Narrative  will  (lilly  show  the  part  he  has  taken  in  carrying  out  the 


I 


INTRODUCTION. 


XVJl 


instructions  of  the  Dcpartnioiit,  and  I  must  acknowledge  and  return  my  thanks 
to  him  for  the  oid  he  afTordcd  mo  in  tiio  arduous  duties  that  devolved  upon  me. 

To  Lieutenant  Cadwaladnr  Ringgold,  tho  commander  of  the  Porpoise,  I  am 
indebted,  for  his  hearty  co-operation  in  the  duties  that  devolved  upon  the  Expo- 
difion.  Tlu."  clliciont  maniior  in  which  he  at  all  times  held  his  command,  and 
ihe  promptness  with  which  ho  carried  out  the  duties  assigned  him,  merit  my 
warmest  acknowledgments  and  thanks. 

The  best  encomium  [  can  bestow  on  the  united  efforts  of  the  officers  and  men, 
is  to  refer  the  reader  to  the  Ilydrographical  Atlas,  and  the  details  in  the  Narra- 
tive of  the  duties  which  have  been  performed. 

In  the  observatory  duties  and  pendulum  observations,  I  was  principally 
assisted  by  Lieutenant  Carr,  I'assed  Midshipmen  Eld  and  Blunt,  and  Mr.  Ilowi- 
son.  I  deem  it  my  duty  to  speak  of  the  devotedness  of  Assistant-Surgeons  Fox 
and  Holmes,  who,  besides  attending  to  their  engrossing  .nedical  duties  and 
meteorological  observations,  manifested  the  utmost  zeal  in  collecting  and  making 
researches  in  the  various  departments  of  natural  history.  They  also  frequently 
assisted  in  the  surveys,  and  I  foinid  them  ever  ready  to  engage  in  any  thing  that 
could  promote  the  success  of  the  E.xpcdition. 

It  gives  me  great  pleasure  to  acknowledge  the  credit  that  is  due,  and  the  obli- 
gations I  feel  under  to  Mr.  R.  R.  Waldron  and  Mr.  William  Spieden,  Pursers 
attached  to  the  Expedition,  for  their  promptness  in  procuring  the  supplies,  and  at 
all  times  forwarding  the  business  of  the  Expedition ;  none  of  the  departments  of 
the  service  were  more  elHcicnt  than  tliat  over  which  they  had  control. 

Since  our  return,  Lieutenants  Carr,  Budd,  Tottcn,  and  Eld,  with  Mr.  F.  D. 
Stuart,  who  were  attached  to  the  Expedition,  have  been  engaged  under  my 
direction  in  recalculating  and  revising  our  numerous  surveys,  previous  to  their 
being  engraved. 

To  Messrs.  Drayton  and  Agate,  the  Artists  of  the  Expedition,  I  feel  it  due  to 
make  known  how  constantly  and  faithfully  they  have  performed  their  duties. 
The  illustrations  of  these  volumes  will  bear  ample  testimony  to  the  amount  of 
their  labours,  and  the  accuracy  with  which  they  have  been  executed. 

Mr.  Drayton  has  had  the  management  of  the  whole  engraving  department 
assigned  him  by  the  Committee  of  the  Library,  and  has  accomplished  what  very 
few  believed  could  be  done  in  this  country.  The  distribution  of  the  work  among 
the  engravers  has  given  general  satisfaction,  not  only  to  the  Committee,  but  to 
the  artists  themselves,  and  has  afforded  a  national  encouragement  to  this 
description  of  art,  the  benefit  of  which  it  will  long  continue  to  feel. 

VOL.  I.  (3 


1 

I  ^1 


•il 


\-ti. 


XVUl 


INTRODUCTION. 


To  Mr.  Drayton  I  owe  many  nek nowli-dgincnts  for  his  constant  nnd  untiring  zeal 
in  till  thu  depUrtinents  of  tlio  Expedition,  not  only  during  the  conlinimnco  of  the 
Expedition,  but  since  its  return,  while  acting  in  concert  with  mo  in  preparing  the 
illustrations  of  the  Narrative  for  the  press.  I  cannot  but  congrutuiuto  myself  that 
wo  should  have  been  so  fortunate  in  having  one  attached  to  the  Expedition  so  well 
adapted  to  encounter,  and  from  his  former  experience  to  overcome,  the  ditiiculties 
we  have  had  to  contend  with  in  the  progress  of  the  publication. 

The  country  is  particularly  indebted  to  the  Joint  Committees  of  the  successive 
Congresses*  who  have  had  the  execution  of  the  law  for  the  publication  of  the 
results  of  the  Exploring  Expedition  entrusted  to  them.  They  have  afTorded  me 
all  the  assistance  I  could  desire;  and  through  the  facilities  obtained,  I  Imve  been 

•  Members  of  tlio  Joint  Committee  on  the  Library  of  Conaruas,  at  iho  second  Session  of 
the  Twonty-seventli  Congress : 


HENATOnS, 

Hon.  William  C.  Preston,  Clmirman, 
Benjamin  Tappan, 
RuAis  CJioate. 

At  the  Tliird  Session  of  the  Twenty-seventh  Congress : 
Hon.  Willi.ini  Woodliriilge,  Chairman, 
Benjamin  Tappan, 
Rufus  Choate. 

At  the  First  Session  of  the  Twenty-eighth  Congress: 
Hon.  Rufus  Choate,  Chairman, 
Benjamin  Tappan, 
Jolm  M.  Berrien. 

At  the  Second  Session  of  the  Twenty-eighth  Congress 
Hon.  Rufus  Clioate,  Chairman,  Mass. 
Benjamin  Tappan,  Oliio, 

Alfred  Pearoo,  Md. 

At  the  First  Session  of  the  Twenty-ninth  Congress: 
Hon.  James  A.  Pearce,  Chairman,  Md. 
Dixon  H.  Lewis,  Ala. 

Joseph  W.  Chalmers,  Mis 

At  the  Second  Session  of  the  Twenty-ninth  Congress : 
Hon.  James  A.  Pearce,  Chairman,  Md. 
Joseph  W.  Chalmers,  Miss. 

Dixon  H.  Lewis,  Ala. 

At  the  First  Session  of  the  Thirtieth  Congress : 
Hon.  James  A.  Pearce,  Chairman,  Md. 
Jefferson  Davis,  Miss. 

James  M.  Mason,  Va. 


nBPnF.SKWTATITKS. 

Hon.  Joseph  L.  Tillinghast, 
John  B.  Aycrigg, 
Thomas  D.  Sumter. 

Hon.  Joseph  L.  Tillinghast, 
John  B.  Aycrigg, 
Thomas  D.  Sumter. 

Hon.  Edmund  Burke, 
George  P.  Marsh, 
William  B.  Maclay. 

Hon.  Edmund  Burke,     N.  H- 
George  P.  Marsh,  Vt. 
Lucius  Lyon. 

Hon.  Richard  Brodhead,      Pa. 
Win.  W.  Campbell,     N.  Y. 
Edmund  W.  Hubard,  Va. 

Hon.  Richard  Brodhfod,      Pa, 
Wm.  W  C'"  ijjosll,     S.Y. 
James  M'Dowell,        Va. 


Hon.  Wm.  B.  Preston,      Va. 
Henry  C.  Murphy,  N.  Y. 
J.  G.  P,7ilfrey,  Mass. 


INTRODUCTION, 


xh 


I  unlirinf;;  zeal 

■f 

fiimncii  of  the 
preparing  tho 

1 

0  myself  thai 

idition  so  wuU 

$ 

thu  diliicuiiiua 

« 

1 

ho  successive 

r 

icalion  of  the 

afTordcd  me 

1 1  have  buen 

nnil  Scsbion  of 

TIVE8. 

'illiugllHSt, 

'''KB. 

, 

3 11  tutor. 

'■ 

i 

illinghast, 

r 

rigg. 

f 

Juinter, 

a 

V 

rko, 

f 

iirsh, 

Hue  lay. 

ke,     N.  H- 

ush,  Vt. 

hea(i,      Pn. 

> 

ipbell,     N.  Y. 

luburd,  Va, 

bfnd,      Pa, 

r'.sii,    .^.Y. 

^ell,        Va. 

11,      Va. 

phy,  N.Y. 

Maas. 

.■tmbled  10  bring  ihu  Nurruiivc  to  completion  at  a  inucii  earlier  .lay  dmn  I  ut  lir«i 
iinticipnted. 

To  the  Hon.  Benjamin  Tappan  cpecinlly.  I  feel  under  obli(vntions  for  the  great 
intere.st  he  has  ever  taken  in  the  Expeditior..  The  law  for  the  p.itilinition  «nf 
orii,'mally  reported  by  l.mi;  he  was  at  an  early  day  appointed  the  Auent  of  the 
<'ommilteu  to  superinicnd  the  wlicile  work  in  ii.s  proirres.s ;  and  it  has  afKird.'d  n. 
great  pleasure,  as  well  as  satisfaction,  to  co-operate  with  one  so  con.potnit  u. 
the  toijk. 

Since  18  W,  the  Hon.  James  A.  Pearce,  U.  S.  Senator,  has  been  chairman  ot  the 
.loint  Library  Committee,  and  has  had  the  direction  of  tho  whole  work.  I  need 
only  refer  to  his  several  able  reports,  to  show  the  efflTtnal  projrrss  of  the  piil.jica. 
lion  of  the  results  of  the  Exploring  Expedition  under  his  efficient  guidance,  au.l 
that  it  will  be  a  lasting  monument,  alike  honourable  to  the  country  and  to  all  those 
who  have  been  engaged  in  it. 

I  am  aware  that  some  dissatisfaction  was  occasionally  felt  oi  the  outset  by  a  fe\v 
'•!■  the  naturalists,  because  they  were  not  allowed  all  the  opportunities  they  desired 
of  .naking  investigations.  Tt  was  not  to  be  supposed,  from  the  many  interests,  and 
their  inexperience  in  naval  duties,  that  all  could  agree  that  the  particular  objects 
of  iheir  several  departments  received  the  proper  consideration.  Each  would  natu- 
rally look  upon  his  own  as  the  most  important.  They  were  not  aware  of  my  in- 
structions, and  of  the  duties  that  were  enjoined  upon  me;  and  I  think  did  not  take 
into  consideration  the  loss  of  time  I  had  met  with  from  various  causes,  and  that  my 
.mentions  were  at  times  unexpectedly  frustrated.  Besides,  it  was  my  duty  to  look 
to  tho  essential  objects  of  the  Expedition,  which  were  entirely  unknown  to  them, 
They  are  now,  after  the  cruise  has  passed,  I  believe,  fully  satisfied  that  it  was  no, 
possible,  without  sacrificing  the  greater  interests,  to  give  more  attention  than  1  did 
to  subordinate  parts. 

I  cannot  avoid  bearing  testimony  to  their  perseverance,  industry,  .eal,  and  stric, 
conformity  to  the  rules  and  regulations  laid  down  for  the  government  of  us  all 
The  result  of  their  labours  will  shortly  be  before  the  public,  and  will  .show  the 
manner  ,n  which  they  have  performed  their  duties.  They  messed  with  the  ward- 
room officers,  and  received  ail  the  privileges,  respect,and  attention  due  to  that  r.Ml; 

In  the  following  Narrative,  it  may  perhaps  be  necessary  to  state,  that  althou,  h 
our  ttme  was  limited  to  a  few  days  at  some  of  the  places  we  visited,  yet  the  num- 
ber of  officers  and  gentlemen  engaged  under  my  command,  enabled  me  to  have 
t^very  thing  worthy  of  notice  e.xamined.     The  result  of  our  observations,  I  am 


f 


XX 


iNTHOIHtr  .  20iV, 


rtttlislimi,  will  Kivt>  a  fuilhfiil  lepii'stuilulioii  oC  lh<  couiilrioH  itid  i.slun.Js,  .lining  il.c 
|)«!rii)(l  '■''  onr  visit. 

I  rm-iviMl  ovory  fucility  for  ol.mmino  inCoriimlion  from  our  consuls,  »s  wril  ns 
iVom  misf.ionnri.-s  uml  Anu-riciin  rcsi<l.>n(.s  ahroml.  Some  of  llu-iu  I'lirnisli.il  iw 
witii  inl(-ro8!in>{  ilocuinmis.  c.onn.-cU'<l  wiili  iln-  piist  and  present  siiilo  of  ilic  co.i.i 
tries  wh.MV  lli.'y  r.-si.ir.  and  i.n.ciired  from  -li.'  .iilli-renl  governments  many  viilu- 
nble  ..(licinl  papers,  hul.v.l.  ili,.  facilities  met  will,  huve  evinre.l  a  .K-sire  in  nil  in 
further  tlie  \nulerlaliiiii;  with  which  I  was  elunxid. 

To  lite  (^)vernor  of  New  South  Waie.s,  Sir  ( .'.'orj;.  ( iipps,  ny  a.-lui.nvie.i.rni.Mils 
arc  particularly  due,  for  his  generou.s  liheraliiy  in  or.Ierinj;  „„.  to  1„.  f„rni,s|ie,l  by 
the  Colonial  Secretary.  V..  Oens  'rhompson.  E.s,|..  will,  all  ih,.  .Iceiunents  puhlisli,-.i. 
not  only  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  but  .sin.v.  'I'iu-  laiirr  have  lie..u  kindly  forwanl.'.l 
byor.r  con.sul,  .1.  If.  Williams.  Ks,,..  t.)  whem  liie  Kxpodiiion  is  also  i-r.-aily  in- 
debt.vl.  From  all  lli,-se  doeimu-nts  I  bavr  br.-u  ..nabl.  ,|  lo  draw  nmeb  valuable 
informnlion.  which  1  hope  will  be  interesting  to  llu>  general  reader,  as  well  as  u^■e- 
fui  lo  our  interests  abroad. 

The  reader  who  shall  loeK  to  this  Narmiive  lor  my  v.Msion  of  ih,.  drvelopemeiits 
which  were  elicilod  by  the  prmveding.s  of  tiie  conrls-martial.  will  be  disappointed, 
lis  I  .sliall  niak,-  no  allusions  that  I  can  possibly  avoid,  to  any  of  the  subjects  of  a 
I'ersonal  character  that  came  before  those  tribunals,  that  occmred  afier  the  return 
of  the  F.xpe.lilion:  nor  will  the  followino-  NMrraiive  ••mbrac-  any  personal  matters 
<n-  .lifHcuhies  that  may  have  taken  plac.>  with  the  oHi.-ers.  for  the  reason  thai  [  do 
not  rcijnrd  such  details  as  rel.-vant  or  inieivstiiip'  to  the  ;;encral  reader.  'I'he  al- 
lempt.s  to  throw  imp.'diments  in  my  way  were  unsuccessful;  and  ?  fully  beli.ve. 
that  from  whatever  moliv.'  they  may  have  arisen,  those  who  caused  them  are  now 
.iesirous  that  they  should  be  foiiiotten.  My  countrymen  will  see  I'^al  my  duties 
were  sutriciently  arduous,  without  having  other  didicuhies  lo  contend  with;  and 
I  have  the  jrraiilicaiion  of  feeling  that  those  duties  have  been  performed,  and  the 
results  fairly  obtained. 

The  performance  of  these  duties  is  the  best  n'futution  that  can  be  i>iven  to  the 
many  missiate'.wents  that  have  been  circidated  to  the  pivjudice  of  the  Expedition, 
iMU  winch,  1  trust,  will  now  be  set  nl  rest.  I  have  never  had  any  personal  feel- 
■no  m  the  matter,  except  thai  which  naturally  arises  from  the  wish  to  ovea-ome  all 
•me<<limeius.  M'  whntox-er  naiur.'  they  miirhl  be.  I  can.  therefon\  have  no  desire 
!iiii  to  give  the  iri„  version  o(  every  circumstance  of  a  public  nature  that  may 
concern  the  Expedition;  and  I  hope  that  I  shall  be  able  to  do  it  with  impartiality 


lids,  (luring  the 

<llls,  lis   W(!ll    lis 

1  l'unii.<iliri|  ini' 
10  of  ilic  codii- 
Ills  iiiMiiy  viilii- 
(Ifsiiv  ill  nil  to 

iiKnvlrd'riiiciils 
1"  furnished  by 
I'nis  piililislicd, 
iidiy  forwiirdi'd 
Iso  givntly  in- 
niiicli  viiiimlile 
IS  well  ns  ut.(.'- 

icM'loiKMlU'lUS 

'  disapjiointcd, 
subjects  of  a 
lor  the  return 
rsniml  itiMllcrs 
nson  I  hill  r  do 
ler.  'I'he  111- 
fully  i'l'licvc, 
tlu'in  arc  now 
•al  my  duiics 
nd  with;  and 
mod,  and  tlio 

givon  to  the 

0  Expodition, 
porsonal  fool- 
ovoa'oiue  all 

avo  no  desire 
MO  that  may 

1  impartiality 


INTRODIIUTION.  xxi 

and  justice,  touching  iis  lightly  as  possible  on  the  faults  of  individuals,  imd  besiow- 
iug  praise  wherovcr  it  is  justly  due. 

The  ol.jfcls  intended  to  be  accomplished  by  the  Expedition,  were  such  as  to 
nipiiir  not  i.ieioly  the  usual  obedience  to  the  orders  of  its  commander,  but  demand- 
ed, in  addition,  a  zeal,  that  could  omy  bn  inspired  by  ii  strong  interesi  in  it«  success, 
iuid  intellijience  of  a  higher  character  than  is  called  into  action  in  the  ordinary  rou- 
tine of  the  duty  of  an  officer.    Deficiency  in  either  cjunlity  was  to  oppose  an  obstacle 

10  ilie  success  of  the  enterprise ;  in  a  word,  we  were  placed  in  circumstances  in 
which  it  became  necessary  for  us  to  perform  more  than  our  ordinary  duties.  Those 
who  felt  and  appreciated  our  situation,  are  entitled  to  the  highest  praise;  while 
some  apology  may  b.  made  for  others,  who,  perhaps,  were  unconscious  of  any 
lailure  in  discipline,  or  actual  dereliction  of  duty,  and  may  have  thought  that  they 
had  cause  to  be  aggrieved,  when  they  found  that  I  was  not  satisfied  with  the  man- 
ner in  which  their  services  were  rendered:  yet,  it  was  as  incumbent  on  me  to  see 
that  our  worl<  was  not  retarded  by  their  want  of  zeal  and  knowledge,  as  to  shorten 
sail  on  the  approach  of  the  tempest. 

The  iiislrumonis  1  was  supplied  with,  were  procured  by  myself  in  Europe;  they 
^vere  made  by  the  best  English,  French,  and  German  artists.  A  description  of 
'hose  will  be  given  in  the  volume  on  Physics. 

Tlx-  lonoitudes  of  our  principal  stations  have  been  determined  by  series  of 
moon  culmiiiaiiiig  sfars,  and  meridian  distances  have  been  measured  from  them  to 

11  her  jioints  by  chronometers. 

Tiie  latitudes  of  the  important  places  were  obtained  by  a  number  of  sets  of 
circum-meridian  observations  of  sun  and  stars. 

The  chronometers  used  were  by  the  best  English  makers,  and  most  of  them 
performed  very  satisfactorily.  But  two  out  of  the  twenty-nine  became  defective, 
and  stopped;  these  will  bo  more  particularly  noticed  hereafter,  in  the  volume  per- 
laining  to  this  subj.'ct.  To  it  I  must  also  refer  for  the  manner  in  which  our  sur- 
veys  were  executed. 

The  magnetical  instruments  were  by  both  English  and  French  makers.  Results 
iiave  been  had  throughout  tiie  cruise,  and  will  serve  to  give  a  magnetic  chart  of 
the  world  ;  these  will  be  published  in  the  volume  on  Physics.  Those  observations 
of  more  immediate  interest  in  the  high  southern  latitudes,  will  be  embraced  in  these 
volumes. 

In  the  Api,endix  will  be  found  all  the  official  documents  relating  to  the  opera- 
tions of  the  Squadron.    These  I  have  thought  it  necessary  to  lay  before  the  public. 
Ml  order  that  it  may  have  a  full  view  of  the  whole  of  the  operations  in  which  the 
3 


■"*^ 


xxu 


INTRODUCTION. 


Squadron  was  employed,  and  may  be  able  to  examine  and  compare  the  orders 
under  which  we  acted,  with  the  duties  which  have  been  performed.  The  Narra 
live  will  embody  all  those  which  we  executed,  and  will  thus  enable  all  to  judge 
how  the  work  was  conducted. 

I  had,  at  an  early  day  after  my  appointment,  assigned  the  10th  of  August  as  the 
time  for  our  departure,  and  had  assured  the  President  that  at  that  time  I  should  be 
ready,  and  would  sail;  but  that  it  was  entirely  impossible  for  me  to  fix  an  earlier 
day.  I  feel  much  salisfactici  in  reflecting  on  the  confidence  the  President  and 
Secretary  placed  in  me.  It  was  fully  appreciaK-d.  The  exertions  of  all  were  bent 
to  fulfil  this  pledge,  although  almost  all  those  connected  with  the  enterprise  doubted 
the  possibility  of  getting  off  so  soon.  Every  thing,  however,  was  completed,  and 
I  left  Washington  on  the  10th  of  August. 

On  my  arrival  at  Norfolk,  I  found  every  thing  in  a  state  of  forwardness,  and  the 
Squadron  in  Hampton  Roads,  whither  they  had  dropped  down  on  the  8th  of  Au- 
gust. The  names  of  the  pilot-boats  were  now  changed  to  the  Sea-Gull  and  Flying- 
Fish,  as  had  been  agreed  upon  with  Mr.  Paulding;  and  they  were  placed  undei 
command  of  Passed  Midshipmen  Reid  and  Knox. 

I  was  well  aware,  from  my  own  observations  and  the  reports  made  to  me,  that 
we  were  any  thing  but  well  equipped  for  such  a  cruise.  But  whatever  our  defects 
were,  it  was  now  entirely  too  late  to  remedy  them.  The  great  anxiety  of  tlie 
government  to  have  us  get  to  sea,  after  the  vexatious  delays  that  had  before  occurred 
in  the  sailing  of  the  Expeditioiv  disappoi.uing  the  honest  expectations  of  the  whole 
country,  and  particularly  the  depressing  effect  any  further  delay  would  produce  on 
the  spirits  and  ardour  of  the  officers  and  men,  made  me  come  to  the  resolution  to 
put  to  sea  at  all  hazards,  and  endeavour  to  remedy  the  defects  as  much  as  possible 
within  our  own  means,  or  on  our  arrival  at  places  where  it  could  be  done 
effectually. 

Before  sailing  from  Hampton  Roads,  the  internal  rules  and  regulations  for  the 
government  of  the  Squadron  were  issued,  in  order  to  make  the  terms  of  duties 
more  uniform,  and  that  in  case  of  transfer  of  men  and  officers  during  the  cruise, 
from  one  vessel  to  another,  no  one  could  be  at  a  loss  to  know  the  duties  he  had 
to  perform.  These  continued,  without  any  material  change,  to  be  riaidly  enforced 
throughout  the  cruise.  S.gnal-books  were  also  arranged,  to  supply°the  defective 
ones  that  are  furnished  the  navy. 

I  was  called  upon,  in  a  few  cases,  to  exercise  the  means  in  my  possession  to 
pumsh  aggressions.  Yet  my  aim  has  been,  throughout  the  cruise,  so  to  conduct 
the  duties  devolving  upon  the  Squadron,  that  it  would  carry  with  it  the  force  of 


''*'% 


INTRODUCTION. 


XXIU 


ipare  the  orders 
id.  TheNurra 
ible  ali  to  judge 

)f  August  as  the 
ime  I  should  be 
0  fix  an  eariier 
e  President  and 
of  all  were  bent 
terprise  doubted 
completed,  and 

irdncss,  and  the 
the  8th  of  Au- 
iull  and  Flying- 
e  placed  undti 


moral  principle.  All  the  regulations  and  operations  were  made  to  tend  to  this 
end.  I  considered  this  as  one  of  my  first  duties,  and  in  it  I  have  been  well  sup- 
ported by  Captain  Hudson  and  Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold,  and  by  most 
of  the  officers  of  the  Expedition.  I  feel  g.-eat  satisfaction  in  having  received  tes- 
•imonials  from  the  different  missionaries,  that  my  course  has  been  fully  appreciated 
by  them.  Indeed,  I  have  reason  to  rejoice  that  I  have  been  enabled  to  carry  the 
moral  influence  of  our  country  to  every  quarter  of  the  globe  where  our  flag  has 
waved ;  and  I  trust  that  the  Expedition  will  compare  advantageously  with  any 
other  that  has  preceded  it,  in  its  moral  and  correct  deportment. 


Washington  Citt, 

'November,  1844. 


CHARLES  WILKES. 


ide  to  me,  that 
!ver  our  defects 
anxiety  of  the 
before  occurred 
;)S  of  the  whole 
uld  produce  on 
•i  resolution  to 
Jch  as  possible 
ould  be   done 


jlations  for  the 
nms  of  duties 
ing  the  cruise, 
duties  he  had 
gidly  enforced 
■  the  defective 


possession  to 

so  to  conduct 

the  force  of 


I  i 


'^ 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


t 


Navy  Department, 
Sm,— .  August  11th,  1838. 

to  te  filled  out  for  Iho  m,,™™     r        ,  ^'  '  ™'I'»"=»<1  »»  Expodilion 

*.cr,„i„e,hrJ^Lc„cr„7"    iTifi?"?  T'  ™,™'"'e*"  sen,  ..well  to 

Li^™.  .ppr„p™ti„„3  L':L7zt  o:,t:::::j:'T°r'''°'°"- 

Iho  President,  reposin.  .„at  conliden.„  i„        """""«""  «'  'l>=*  "bjcels,  and 

.ppointed  you  J.ho  .^ZlTTZ^^II^rf''''''''''''''  """  ""''  "- 
the  performance  of  the  *,t;„.    r  ,  '''P""'""".  requiring  you  to  proceed  to 

ordc!L,  consist  „;  re  C:l':f;'.'™  ""'  '"V-*  P'-od  under  your 

.ho  brig  ..orpoise"  and  .::^:zZuZ;Lr^.:-'-''' "'  ^"'^  «*^. 

As  soon  as  tliese  vessok  im  ,•„  „,  ^    o        '• 

taho  your  departure  .orNoX.m.TX  :::^S  1^,:;'  °°""*"^'' 

ing  the  lino  between  longitude  18°  and  22°  W    !  -i,         °  ^""'■"'  "°'^" 

dians  to  about  latitude  10°  S  ,  with  a    iow  t7u  T''  "'''"""  ''''''  '"°"- 

v^^ias  or  shoals  laid  down  in\h:ch::nVdou:r':: ':,::'""  V  -'  r '"- 

they  be  found  to  exist,  it  is  deemed  _.  ,  ,°",   ".'''  ^"''*'°"' ''^""'^ 

ascertain.  '''^'  '°  '^'^  '"'^'"'^'^fs  °^  our  commerce  tc 

vor,.  r.  ^^"y/^"  "'^  "'^  'I  "^°'^«  "titles  which  are  considered  the 

(xxv) 


Ijl 


I  i'J 


!! 


1^  Mi 


i! 


ii;nl 


XXVI 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


best  preventives  and  remedies  for  the  scurvy.  You  will  determine  the  longitude 
of  that  place,  as  well  as  of  Cape  Frio ;  after  which,  you  will  either  detach  a 
vessel,  -  proceed  with  your  whole  squadron,  to  make  a  particular  examination 
of  Rio  Negro,  which  falls  into  the  South  Atlantic  about  latitude  41°  S.,  with  a 
view  to  ascertain  its  resouires  and  facilities  for  trade. 

Having  completed  this  survey,  you  will  proceed  to  a  safe  port  or  ports  in 
Terra  del  Fuego,  where  the  members  of  the  scientific  corps  may  have  favoura- 
ble  opportunities  of  prosecuting  their  researches.  Leaving  the  larger  vessels 
securely  moored,  and  the  officers  and  crews  occupied  in  their  respective  duties, 
you  will  proceed  with  the  brig  Porpoise,  and  the  tenders,  to  explore  the  southern 
Antarctic,  to  the  southward  of  Powell's  Group,  and  between  it  and  Sandwich 
Land,  following  the  track  of  Weddell  as  closely  as  practicable,  and  endeavour- 
ing to  reach  a  high  southern  latitude;  taking  care,  however,  not  to  be  obliged  to 
pass  the  winter  there,  and  to  rejoin  the  other  vessels  between  the  middle  of 
February  and  beginning  of  March.  The  attention  of  the  officers  left  at  Terra  del 
Fuego,  will,  in  the  mean  time,  be  specially  directed  to  making  such  accurate  and 
particular  examinations  and  surveys  of  the  bays,  ports,  inlets,  and  sounds,  in 
that  region,  as  may  verify  or  extend  those  of  Captain  King,  and  be  serviceable 
in  future  to  vessels  engaged  in  the  whale-fisheries,  in  their  outward  and  home 
ward-bound  passages. 

You  will  then,  on  rejoining  the  vessels  at  Terra  del  Fuego,  with  all  your 
squadron,  stretch  towards  the  southward  and  westward  as  far  as  the  Ne  Plus 
Ultra  of  Cook,  or  longitude  105°  W.,  and  return  northward  to  Valparaiso, 
where  a  store-ship  will  meet  you  in  the  month  of  March,  1839.  Proceeding 
once  more  from  that  port,  you  will  direct  your  course  to  the  Navigator's  Group, 
keeping  to  the  southward  of  the  place  of  departure,  in  order  to  verify,  if  possi- 
ble, the  existence  of  certain  islands  and  shoals,  laid  down  in  the  charts  as  doubt- 
ful, and  if  they  exist,  to  determine  their  precise  position,  as  well  as  that  of  all 
others  which  may  be  discovered  in  this  unfrequented  track.  When  you  arrive 
in  those  latitudes  where  discoveries  may  be  reasonably  anticipated,  you  will  so 
dispose  your  vessels  as  that  they  shall  sweep  the  broadest  expanse  of  the  ocean 
that  may  be  practicable,  without  danger  of  parting  company,  lying-to  at  night 
in  order  to  avoid  the  chance  of  passing  any  small  island  or  shoal  without  detec- 
tion. 

It  is  presumed  you  will  reach  the  Navigator's  Group  some  time  in  June,  1839. 
You  will  survey  this  group,  and  its  harbours,  with  all  due  care  and  attention. 
If  time  will  permit^  it  will  be  well  to  visit  the  Society  Islands,  and  examine 
Eimeo,  which,  it  is  stated,  possesses  a  convenient  harbour. 

From  the  Navigator's  Group,  you  will  proceed  to  the  Feejee  Islands,  which 
you  will  examine  with  particular  attention,  with  the  view  to  the  selection  of  a 
safe  harbour,  easy  of  access,  and  in  every  respect  adapted  to  the  reception  of 
vessels  of  the  United  States  engaged  in  the  whale-fishery,  and  the  general 
commerce  of  these  seas ;  it  being  the  intention  of  the  government  to  keep  one 
of  the  squadron  of  the  Pacific  cruising  near  these  islands  in  future. 


e  the  longitude 
either  detach  a 
ar  examination 
41°  S.,  with  a 

lort  or  ports  in 
'  have  favoura. 
larger  vessels 
ipective  duties, 
•e  the  southern 
and  Sandwich 
ind  endeavour- 

0  be  obliged  to 
.  the  middle  of 
ft  at  Terra  del 
h  accurate  and 
md  sounds,  in 

be  serviceable 
ard  and  home 

with  all  your 
s  the  Ne  Plus 
to  Valparaiso, 
'.  Proceeding 
gator's  Group, 
erify,  if  possi- 
larts  as  doubt- 
[  as  that  of  all 
en  you  arrive 
i,  you  will  so 
B  of  the  ocean 
ig-to  at  night 
without  detec- 

in  June,  1839. 

and  attention. 

and  examine 

ilands,  which 
selection  of  a 
;  reception  of 

1  the  general 
it  to  keep  one 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

XXVII 

After  selecting  the  island  and  harbour  best  adapted  to  the  purposes  in  view 
you  will  use  your  endeavours  to  make  such  arrangements  as  will  insure  a' 
supply  of  fruits,  vegetables,  and  fresh  provisions,  to  vessels  visitinn  it  hereafter 
teaching  the  natives  the  modes  of  cultivation,  and  encouraging  "hem  to  raise 
hogs  in  greater  abundance. 

These  objects  will,  it  is  presumed,  occupy  you  until  the  latter  end  of  October  • 
and  when  attained  as  far  as  may  bo  possible,  you  will  proceed  to  the  port  of 
Sydney,  where  adequate  supplies  may  be  obtained.  From  thence  you  will 
make  a  second  attempt  to  penetrate  within  the  Antarctic  region,  south  of  Van 
Diemen's  Land,  and  as  far  west  as  longitude  45°  E.,  or  to  Enderby's  Land 
makmg  your  rendezvous  on  your  return  at  Kerguelen's  Land,  or  the  Isle  of 
Desolation,  as  it  is  now  usually  denominated,  and  where  you  will  probably 
arrive  by  the  latter  end  of  March,  1840. 

From  the  Isle  of  Desolation  you  will  proceed  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  by 
such  route  as  you  may  judge  best,  from  the  information  you  may  acquire  fronr. 
such  sources  as  fall  in  your  way. 

A  store-ship  from  the  United  States  will  meet  you  there,  with  a  supply  of 
provisions,  in  the  month  of  April,  1840. 

Thence  you  will  direct  your  course  to  the  Northwest  Coast  of  America 
making  such  surveys  and  examinations,  first  of  the  territory  of  the  United 
States  on  the  seaboard,  and  of  the  Columbia  river,  and  afterwards  along  the 
coast  of  California,  with  special  reference  to  the  Bay  of  St.  Francisco,  as  you 
can  accomplish  by  the  month  of  October  following  your  arrival 

You  will  tlR.n  proceed  to  the  coast  of  Japan,  taking  in  your  route  as  many 
doubful  islands  as  possible;  and  you  have  permission  to  pass  through  the 
Straits  of  Sangar  into  the  Sea  of  Japan,  where  you  m.y  spend  as  much  time  as 

MiiZo  ^°"''  ""'"'  ""'  *^'  P"""^"'  ''^'°"  '"  '^^  ®"^  °^  ^°"1"°  «'• 

01-  this  sea  you  will  make  a  particular  examination,  with  a  view  to  ascertain 
whether  there  is  any  safe  route  through  it,  which  will  shorten  the  passage  of 
our  vessels  to  and  from  China.  ^ 

It  is  enjoined  on  you  to  pay  very  particular  attention  to  this  object,  in  order 
that  you  may  be  enabled  to  furnish  sailing  instructions  to  navigators.  It  may 
be  also  advisable  to  ascertain  the  disposition  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  islands  of 
this  archipelago  for  commerce,  their  productions  and  resources 

Having  completed  this  survey,  you  will  proceed  to  the  Straits  of  Sunda,  pass 
tlnough  the  btraits  of  Billiton,  which  you  will  examine,  and  thence  to  the  port 
of  Singapore  where  it  is  probable  you  may  arrive  about  the  beginning  of  April, 
1841,  and  where  you  will  meet  a  store-ship  from  the  United  States 

Having  completed  this  service,  it  is  presumed  the  objects  of  your  enterprise 

will  be  accomplished,  and  you  will  accordingly,  after  receiving  your  supplies  at 

Singapore,  return  to  the  United  States  by  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  taki' g  such 

a  course  as  may  be  most  hkely  to  further  the  great  purposes  of  the  Expedition. 

During  your  stay  ,n  the  southern  latitudes,  should  the  dysentery  or  any 


XXVIU 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


other  fatal  epidemic  make  its  appearance  among  your  crews,  you  have  leave  tc 
proceed  to  the  northward,  until  the  disease  shall  either  disappear,  or  be  so  miti- 
gated,  as  to  admit  of  the  resumption  of  your  surveys. 

The  Department  docs  not  foci  the  necessity  of  giving  any  special  directions 
for  preserving  the  health  of  those  under  your  command,  confiding  in  your  own 
experience,  the  care  and  precautions  of  the  able  surgeons  with  whom  you  are 
provided,  and  in  the  conviction  you  must  feel,  that  on  the  health  of  your  crew? 
must  depend  the  success  of  the  enterprise. 

In  the  prosecution  of  these  long  and  devious  voyages,  you  will  necessarily 
be  placed  in  situations  which  cannot  be  anticipated,  and  in  which,  sometimes 
your  own  judgment  and  discretion,  at  others,  necessity,  must  be  your  guide. 
Among  savage  nations,  unacquainted  with,  or  possessing  but  vague  ideas  of  the 
rights  of  property,  the  most  common  cause  of  collision  with  civilized  visiters,  is 
the  offence  and  the  punishment  of  theft.  You  will  therefore  adopt  every  possible 
precaution  against  this  practice,  and  in  the  recovery  of  '.he  stolen  property,  as 
well  as  in  punishing  the  offender,  use  ail  due  moderation  and  forbearance. 

You  will  permit  no  trade  to  be  carried  on  by  the  squadron,  with  the  countries 
you  may  visit,  either  civilized  or  savage,  except  for  necessaries  or  curiosities, 
and  that  under  express  regulations  established  by  yourself,  in  which  the  rights 
of  the  natives  must  be  scrupulously  respected  and  carefully  guarded. 

Ysu  will  neither  interfere,  nor  permit  any  wanton  interference  with  the 
customs,  habits,  manners,  or  prejudices,  of  the  natives  of  such  countries  or 
islands  as  you  may  ^  isit;  nor  take  part  in  their  disputes,  except  as  a  mediator; 
nor  commit  any  aot  of  hostility,  unless  in  self-defence,  or  to  protect  or  secure 
the  property  of  those  under  your  command,  or  whom  circumstances  may  have 
placed  within  reach  of  your  protection. 

You  will  carefully  inculcate  on  all  the  officers  and  men  under  your  command, 
that  courtesy  and  kindness  towards  the  natives,  which  is  understood  and  felt  by 
all  classes  of  mankind ;  to  display  neither  arrogance  nor  contempt,  and  to 
appeal  to  their  good-wiU  rather  than  their  fears,  until  it  shall  become  apparent 
that  they  can  only  be  restrained  from  violence  by  fear  or  force. 

You  will,  on  all  occasions,  avoid  risking  the  officers  and  men  unnecessarily 
on  shore  at  the  mercy  of  the  natives.  Treachery  is  one  of  the  invariable 
characteristics  of  savages  and  barbarians;  and  very  many  of  the  fatal  disasters 
which  have  befallen  preceding  navigators,  have  arisen  from  too  great  a  reliance 
on  savage  professions  of  friendship,  or  overweening  confidence  in  themselves. 

Much  of  the  character  of  our  future  intercourse  with  the  natives  of  the  lands 
you  may  visit,  will  depend  on  the  impressions  made  on  their  minds  by  their 
first  intercourse  with  your  vessels. 

^  It  is  the  nature  of  the  savage,  long  to  remember  benefits,  and  never  to  forget 
injuries ;  and  you  will  use  your  best  endeavours  wherever  you  may  go,  to  leave 
behind  a  favourable  impression  of  your  country  and  countrymen.  The  Expe- 
dition  is  not  for  conquest,  but  discovery.  Its  objects  are  all  peaceful ;  they  are 
to  extend  the  empire  of  commerce  and  science ;  to  diminish  the  hazards  of  the 


1^ 


ave  leave  lo 
r  be  80  miti- 

ial  directions 

n  your  own 

tiom  you  are 

your  crewp 

I  necessarily 

1,  sometimes 

your  guide. 

ideas  of  the 

1  visiters,  is 
■ery  possible 
property,  as 
ranee, 

he  countries 
'  curiosities, 
h  the  rights 

:e  with  the 
countries  or 
a  mediator; 
ct  or  secure 
i  may  have 

r  command, 

and  felt  by 

ipt,  and  to 

ne  apparent 

meccssarily 

2  invariable 
tal  disasters 
t  a  reliance 
?mselves. 

f  the  lands 
ids  by  their 

er  to  forget 
50,  to  leave 
The  Expe- 
;  they  are 
ards  of  the 


INSTRUCTIONS.  ^xix 

i)cean,  and  point  out  to  future  navigators  a  course  by  which  they  may  avoid 
dangers  and  find  safety. 

An  Expedition  so  constituted,  and  for  such  purposes,  armed  for  defence,  not 
conquest,  and  engaged  in  pursuits  in  which  all  enlightened  nations  arc  equally 
interested,  has  a  right  to  expect  the  good-will  and  good  offices  of  the  whole 
civilized  world.  Should  our  country,  therefore,  be  unhappily  involved  in  war 
during  your  absence,  you  will  refrain  from  all  acts  of  hostility  whatever,  as  it 
is  confidently  believed  none  will  be  committed  against  you.  So  far  from  this 
being  the  case,  it  is  not  to  be  doubted  that  even  hostile  nations  will  respect  your 
purposes,  and  afford  every  facility  to  their  accomplishment. 

Finally,  you  will  recollect,  that  though  you  may  frequently  be  carried  beyond 
the  sphere  of  social  life,  and  the  restraints  of  law,  yet  that  the  obligations  of 
justice  and  humanity  are  always  and  every  where  equally  imperative  in  our 
intercourse  with  men,  and  most  especially  savages ;  that  we  seek  them,  not  they 
us ;  and  that  if  we  expect  to  derive  advantages  from  the  intercourse,  we  should 
endeavour  to  confer  benefits  in  return. 

Although  the  primary  object  of  the  Expedition  is  the  promotion  of  the  great 
interests  of  commerce  and  navigation,  yet  you  will  take  all  occasions,  not 
incompatible  with  the  great  purposes  of  your  undertaking,  to  extend  the  bounds 
of  science,  and  promote  the  acquisition  of  knowledge.  For  the  more  successful 
attainment  of  these,  a  corps  of  scientific  gentlemen,  consisting  of  the  following 
persons,  will  accompany  the  Expedition,  and  are  placed  under  your  direction. 


Naturalists. 


Mr.  Hale,  Philologist, 

Mr.  Pickering, 

Mr.  Peale, 

Mr.  Couthouy,  Conchologist. 

Mr.  Dana,  Mineralogist. 

Mr.  Rich,  Botanist. 

Mr.  Drayton,  i 

Mr.  Agate,       \  D'aughtsmen. 

Mr.  Brackenkipge,  Horticulturist. 

The  hydrography  and  geography  of  the  various  seas  and  countries  you  may 
visit  m  the  route  pointed  out  to  you  in  the  preceding  instructions,  will  occupy 
your  special  attention;  and  all  the  researches  connected  with  them,  as  well  as 
with  astronomy,  terrestrial  magnetism,  and  meteorology,  are  confided  exclu- 
sively  to  the  officers  of  the  «avy,  on  whose  zeal  and  talents  the  Department 
confidently  relies  for  such  results  as  will  enable  future  navigators  to  pass  over 
the  track  traversed  by  your  vessels,  without  fear  and  without  danger 

No  special  directions  are  thought  necessary  in  regard  to  the  mode  of  con- 
ducting  the  scientific  researches  and  experiments  which  vou  are  enjoined  to 
prosecute,  nor  is  it  intended  to  limit  the  members  of  the  cm-ps  each  to  his  own 
particular  service.     All   are   expected   to   co-operate   harmoniously   in   those 


XXX 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


kindred  pursuits,  whoso  equal  dignity  and  usofiilnrss  should  insu-  equal  ardour 
and  industry  in  extending  their  bounds  and  verifying  their  principles. 

As  guides  to  yourself  and  to  the  scientific  eorps,  the  Department  would, 
however,  direct  your  particular  attention  to  the  Irnrned  and  comprehensive 
Reports  of  a  committee  of  the  American  Philosophical  Society  of  Philadelphia, 
the  Report  of  a  Committee  of  the  East  India  Marine  Society,  of  Salem,  Massa- 
chusetts;  and  to  a  communication,  from  the  Naval  Lyceum  of  New  York. 
which  accompany,  and  are  to  bo  regarded  as  forming  a  part  of  these  instruc- 
tions, so  far  as  they  may  accord  with  the  primary  objects  of  the  Expedition, 
and  its  present  organization.  You  will,  therefore,  allow  the  gentlemen  of  the 
scientific  corps  the  free  perusal  of  these  valuable  documents,  and  permit  them  to 
copy  such  portions  as  they  may  think  proper. 

The  Russian  Vice-Admiral  Kruscnstern,  has  transmitted  to  the  Department 
memorandums  relating  to  the  objects  of  this  Expedition,  together  with  the  most 
improved  charts  of  his  atlas  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  with  explanations,  in  three 
volumes.  These  are  also  confided  to  your  care ;  and  it  is  not  doubted  that  the 
friendly  contributions  of  this  distinguished  navigator  will  essentially  contribute 
to  the  success  of  an  enterprise  in  which  ho  takes  so  deep  an  interest. 

You  will  prohibit  all  those  under  your  command  from  furnishing  any  persons 
not  belonging  to  the  Expcditiouy  with  copies  of  any  journal,  charts,  plan,  memo- 
randum,  specimen,  drawing,  painting,  or  information  of  any  kind,  which  has 
-reference  to  the  objects  or  proceedings  of  the  Expedition. 

It  being  considered  highly  important  that  no  journal  of  these  voyages,  either 
partial  or  complete,  should  be  published,  without  the  authority  and  under  the 
supervision  of  the  government  of  the  United  States,  at  whose  expense  this 
Expedition  is  undertaken,  you  will,  before  you  reach  the  waters  of  the  United 
States,  require  from  every  person  under  your  command  the  surrender  of  all 
journals,  nemorandums,  remarks,  writings,  drawings,  sketches,  and  paintings, 
as  well  as  all  specimens  of  every  kind,  collected  or  prepared  during  yo'iir 
absence  from  the  Uiiited  States. 

After  causing  correct  inventories  of  these  to  be  made  and  signed  by  two 
commissioned  officers,  and  by  the  parties  by  whom  they  were  collected  or 
prepared,  you  will  cause  them  to  be  carefully  scaled  by  the  said  officers,  and 
reserved  for  such  disposition  as  the  Department  may  direct. 

You  will  adopt  the  most  effectual  measures  to  prepare  and  preserve  all 
specimens  of  natural  history  that  may  be  collected,  and  should  any  opportuni- 
ties  occur  for  sending  home  by  a  vessel  of  war  of  the  United  States,  copies  of 
information,  or  duplicates  of  specimens,  or  any  other  material  you  may  deem 
it  important  to  preserve  from  the  reach  of  future  accident,  you  will  avail  your- 
self  of  the  occasion,  forv/arding  as  frequently  as  may  be  done  with  safety, 
details  of  your  voyage  and  its  most  material  events,  at  the  same  time  strictly 
prohibiting  all  communications  except  to  this  Department,  from  any  person 
attached  to  the  Expedition,  referring  to  discoveries,  or  any  circumstances 
connected  with  the  progress  of  your  enterprise. 


?  equal  ardour 
es. 

•tmrnf  would, 
'omprohonsive 
'  Philndolphia, 
5nlprn,  Mnssn- 
f  New  York, 
these  instruc- 
le  Expedition, 
itlcmen  of  the 
)ormit  them  to 

0  Department 
vith  the  most 
ions,  in  three 
ubtcd  that  tiie 
lly  contribute 

St. 

;  any  persons 
,  plan,  memo- 
d,  which  has 


INSTRUCTIONS,  j,jjj,j 

It  is  believed  that  the  onicers  under  your  command  require  no  special  advic^ 
or  direction  from  this  Department.  Rearing  in  mind,  as  they  no  doubt  will 
that  the  undertaking  wliich  they  arc  about  assisting  to  accomplish,  is  one  that 
necessardy  attracts  the  attention  of  the  civilized  world,  and  that  the  honour  and 
interests  of  their  country  arc  equally  involved  in  its  results,  it  is  not  for  a 
moment  doubted  that  in  this,  as  on  all  other  occasions,  they  will  so  conduct 
themselves,  as  to  add  to  the  reputation  our  navy  has  so  justly  acquired  at  home 
and  abroad. 

With  the  best  wishes  for  the  success  of  the  Expedition,  and  the  safe  return  of 
yourself  and  your  companions, 

I  am,  very  respectfully, 

(Signed)        J.  K.  Paulding. 

To  Lieutenant  Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  the  Exploring  and  Surveying  Expedition,  &c. 

P.  S.  The  accompanying  printed  list  of  English  words,  drawn  up  by  Mr 
Gallatin  and  received  from  the  War  Department  since  these  instructions  were 
prepared,  are  intended  for  Indian  vocabularies,  which  can  be  filled  up  as 
circumstances  permit,  taking  care  that  the  same  words  be  used  in  all  of  them. 

(Signed)        J.  K.  Pauldins. 


jyages,  either 
nd  under  the 
expense  this 
if  the  United 
•ender  of  all 
nd  paintings, 
during  your 

jned  by  two 
collected  or 
officers,  and 


preserve  all 
ly  opportuni. 
es,  copies  of 
I  may  deem 
1  avail  your- 
with  safety, 
time  strictly 
any  person 
rcumstances 


LIST  OE  OFFICERS  AND  MEN 


ATTACHED   TO 


THE  UNITED  STATES  EXPLOllING  EXPEDITION. 


UNITED  STATES  SHIP  VINCENNES. 

Chahles  Wilkeh,  Esq.,        Commanding  Exploring  ExiKidition. 

"^  ""  "  Lieutenant.  Left  at  Valparaiso  June  6th,  1839,  to  tako 

command  of  the  Sea.GuU. 


Thomas  T.  Craven, 
Overton  Carr, 
Robert  E.  Johnson, 

Jaues  Alden, 

William  L.  Maurv, 

James  H.  North, 
Euwahu  Gilchrist, 
R.  R.  Waldron,  . 
J.  L.  Elliott, 
J.  L.  Fox, 

J.  S.  Whittle, 

Georoe  M.  Totten, 

William  Reynolds, 

William  May, 
VOL.  I. 


Lieutenant, 
Lieutenant, 


Lieutenant, 
Iiieutenant. 

Acting  Master 


Took  command  of  brig  Oregon,  at  San 

Francisco,  October,  1841. 
Commanded   Sea.GuU    on    her    Southern 
Cruise,  detached  at  Honolulu,  Novera- 
bcr,  1841, 
Joined   brig  Porpoise  at  San  Franciso<v 

October,  1841. 
Joined  Peacock  at  Orange  Bay,  and  Por- 
poise at  Callao. 
Joined  Porpoise  at  Callao, 
Acting  Surgeon.      Detached  at  Sydney,  March,  1840. 
Purser. 

Chaplain.  Detached  at  San  Francisco,  October,  1841, 

Assistant  Surg.       Joined  Porpoise  at  San  Francisco,  October, 

1841. 
Assistant  Surg.       Joined    Peacock   at  Honolulu,  and   Vin. 
cennes  again  at  San  Francisco, 
Joined  Porpoise  at  Callao,  and  Vincenncs 

at  Honolulu, 
Joined  Peacock,  1839,  and  Fiying-Fish  at 
Honolulu,  1840,  and  Porpoise  at  Singa- 
pore. 
Joined  Flying-Fisli  on  a  cruise  south, 
1839.'40,  and  Vincennes  again.  May, 
1840. 

(33) 


Passed  Mid. 
Passed  Mid. 

Passed  Mid. 


Ill 


XXXIV 


L  I  S  T  O  F    OFFICERS    AND    MEN. 


Joseph  P.  Sandporb,  Passed  Mid. 


George  W.  Clark, 

Samuel  Elliott, 
William  SiMitii, 
Washington  Bright, 
William  M.  Laigiiton, 
Samuel  N,  Hawkins, 
Benj.  Vanderford, 
R.  P.  Robinson, 
John  G.  Williamson, 


Midshipman. 

Midsiiipraan. 

Boatswain. 

Gunner. 

Ciirpentcr. 

Sailmakcr. 

Pilot. 

Purser's  Steward. 

Gunner. 


Joined  PorpoiKc  at  Taliiti,   seliooncr  Fly. 

ing-Fish  at  San  Francisco,  and  Porpoise 

at  Singapore, 
Joined  Peacock  at  Taliiti,  and  Vincennes 

again  at  San  Francisco. 


.Toincd  Relief  at  Callao. 
Joined  Relief  at  Callao. 


Died,  April,  1842. 


Charles  Pickering, 
Joseph  Drayton, 
J.  D.  Brackenridge, 
John  G.  Brown, 
John  W.  W.  Dyes, 
Joseph  P.  Coutiiouy, 


SCIENTIFIC  CORPS. 

Naturalist. 
Artist. 

Assistant  Botanist. 
Mathematical  Instrument  Maker. 
Assistant  Taxidermist. 

Naturalist.  Left  at  Sydney,  and  detached  at  Hono. 

lulu,  November,  1840. 

UNITED  STATES  SHIP  PEACOCK. 

WRECKED  JULY  18tH,  1841. 


William  L.  Hudson, 
Samuel  P.  Lee, 
W.  M.  Walker, 


Esa.,  Commanding. 
Lieutenant. 
Lieutenant. 


George  F.  Emmons, 
O.  H.  Perry, 
Thomas  A.  Budd, 
J.  F.  Sickles, 
William  Spieden, 
Silas  Holmes, 

James  B.  Lewis, 

Henry  Gansevoort, 

Henry  Eld, 

George  W.  Harriso.n, 


Wilkes  Henry, 
William  H.  Hudson 


Lieutenant. 
Lieutenant. 
Acting  Master. 
Surgeon. 
Purser. 
Assistant  Surg. 

Passed  Mid. 

Passed  Mid. 
Passed  Mid. 
Passed  Mid. 


Midshipman. 
Midshipman. 


Joined  Vincennes  at  San  Francisco. 
Detached  at  Orange  Bay,  Feb.  1839. 
Conunanded     Flying-Fish     first     cruise, 
joined  Porpoise  at  Columbia  river,  and 
Vincennes  at  San  Francisco. 
Joined  Vincennes  at  San  Francisco. 
Joined  Vincennes  at  San  Francisco. 
Joined  Vincennes  at  Feejee. 
Joined  Relief  at  Callao. 
Joined  Oregon  at  Columbia  River, 
Joined  Porpoise  at  Sydney,  and  Oregon  at 

San  Francisco. 
Joined   I'lying-Fish   at   I'cejce,    returned 

home  from  Oahu  sick. 
Detached  at  Callao,  IbSU. 
Joined  Vincennes  at  Feejee. 
Joined  Flying-Fish  on  cruise  soutii.  Pea. 
cock  at  Feejee,  and  Oregon  at  Columbia 
River. 
•Joined   Vincennes  at  Callao,  killed,  July 

24tli,  18-1(),  at  Mnlolo. 
Joined  Vincennes  at  Columbia  river. 


LIST    OF    OFFICERS    AND    M  E  N, 


i,   scliooncr  Fly. 
SCO,  and  Porpoise 

i,  and  Vinccnnes 


XXXV 


Frkderick  D.  Stuau  t, 

Thomas  G.  Bf.h, 

.loiiN  D.  Anderson, 
Jonas  Dihdi.e, 

J.  D.  FltEE.MAN, 
WlI.I.IAM  II.  InSLEV, 


rni>tiiiu's  ClcrU. 

Boiitswain, 

fjliinncr. 

Cariu'iitor. 

Sailinakcr. 

Purser's  Stcw.ud.    Dctaclied  at  CalUo. 


Joined    Porpoise    at   Columbia,   river,   and 

Vinccnnes  at  San  Francisco, 
.loincd   Porpoise   at  (Joiambia  river,  and 

Oregon  at  San  Francisco. 
Detached  at  Callao. 
Joined  Oregon  ut  Columbia  river. 
Joined  Porpoise  at  Columbia  river. 


SCIENTIFIC  CORPS. 


» 


Jajiks  1).  Dana, 
T.  I{.  Peai.e, 
Horatio  Hale, 


F.  I/.  Davkni'ort, 


Mineralogist. 

Naturalist. 

Philologist. 


Interpreter. 


Joined  Vincenncs  at  San  Francisco. 
Joined  Vincenncs  at  San  Francisco. 
Joined  Vincenncs  at  New  Zealand,  Peacock 

at  Honolulu,  and  was  left  at  Oregon  to 

cross  the  country. 
Detached  at  Rio. 


iched  at  Iloao- 


sent  home 


rancisco. 
^eb.  1839. 

first     cruise, 
iibia  river,  and 

SCO. 

■ancisco. 
ancisco. 


River. 

and  Oregon  at 

'jce,    returned 


3c  Eoutii,  Pea. 
n  at  Columbia 

),  killed,  July 

a  river. 


A.  K.  Long, 
R.  F.  Pixknev, 


UNITED  STATES  SHIP  RELIEF. 

from  callao,  by  WAV  OF  SANDWICH  ISLANDS  AND  SYDNEY. 

Lieutenant-Conunandant. 


A.  L.  Case, 

Joseph  A.  Underwood, 

'Jeorce  T.  Sinclair, 


J.  C.  Pal.meh. 


Alonzo  B.  Davis, 


Thomas  W.  Cumjii.ngs, 
James  L.  Blair, 


James  R.  Howison, 
J.  Black, 

Thomas  Lewis, 


William  Rich, 


Lieutenant. 

Lieutenant. 
Lieutenant. 

Acting  Master. 
Acting  Surgeon. 
Passed  Mid. 


Passed  Mid. 
Midshipman. 


Captain's  Clerk. 

Boatswain. 

Ounner. 


Joined   Peacock   at  Orange  Bay,  Flying. 
Fish  at  Callao,  and  detached  at  Hono- 
lulu, 1840. 
Joined  Vincenncs  at  Callao. 
Joined  Vinccnnes  at  Callao,  and  killed  at 

Malolo,  July  24tli,  1810. 
Joined   Porpoise   at  Callao;    Commander 
Flyiiig.FisIi  at  Fuejce;  joined  Porpoise 
again  at  Honolulu,  November,  1840. 
Joined  Peacock  at  Callao,  and  Oregon  at 
Columbia  ri\cr,  and  Vincenncs  at  San 
Francisco. 
.Toined  Peacock  at  Callao,  and  Viacennes 
at  Columbia  river,  and  Oregon  at  San 
Francisco. 
Left  sick  at  Rio. 

Joined  Peacock  at  Rio,  schooner  Flying- 
Fish  at  Columbia  river,  and  Vinccnnes 
at  Honolulu. 
Joined  Vinccnnes  at  Callao. 

Joined  Peacock  at  Callao,  and  Oregon  at 
Columbia  river. 


SCIENTIFIC  CORPS. 


Botanist. 


Joined  Peacock  at  Callao,  and  Vincennes 

at  San  Francisco, 


XXXVl 


LIST    OF    OFFICERS    AND    MEN. 


AUHBD  T.  AOATE, 


Artist 


Joined  PfQcock  at  Calluo,  and  Vincennoa 
at  San  Francisco. 


UNITED  STATES  BRIG  PORPOISE. 


Cadwalader  Ringgold, 
M.  G.  L.  Claiborne, 
H.  J.  Hartstein, 
John  B.  Dale, 
A.  S.  Baldwin, 

C.  F.  B.  GuiLLOu, 


Simon  F.  Blunt, 

Geo.  W.  CoLvocoREssig, 

Thomas  W.  Waldron, 
O.  Nelson, 
Amos  Chick, 
John  Joines, 
William  H.  Morse, 
John  Frost, 


Lieutcnant-Conim 
Lieutenant. 
Lieutenant. 
Lieutenant. 
Acting  Master. 

Assistant  Surg. 


Passed  Mid, 

Passed  Mid. 

Captain's  Clerk. 

Boatswain. 

Carpenter. 

Sailniaker. 

Purser's  Steward, 

Boatswain, 


landant. 
Joined  Relief  at  Orange  Bay, 
Joined  Relief  at  Callao. 
Joined  Relief  at  Callao. 
Joined  Peacock  at  Callao,  and  Oregon  at 

Columbia  river. 
Joined  Peacock  at  Sydney,  Flying-Fisli  at 

Columbia  river,  and  detached  at  Ilono. 

lulu,  November,  1841. 
Joined   Viiicennes   at    Orange   Bay,    and 

left  sick  at  Honolulu,  in  April,  1841. 
Joined  Peacock  at  Rio,  Vincenncs  at  Fee- 

jee,  and  Oregon  at  San  Francisco. 

Detached  at  Rio. 

Joined  Vincennes  at  Callao, 

Detached  at  Callao;  joined  Relief, 


4 


I 


James  W,  E.  Reid, 
Frederick  A,  Bacon, 
Isaac  Percival, 


Samuel  R,  Knox, 

George  W,  Hammersly, 

Richard  Ellice, 
H,  A,  Clemson, 

Egbert  Thompson, 

A.  M.  Cesney, 
E.  H.  De  Haven, 

James  S.  Power, 


TENDER  SEA-GULL. 

LOST  ABOUT  MAY  IST,  1839. 

Passed  Midshipman,  Commandant. 
Passed  Mid. 

Pi'ot-  Joined  Relief  ai  Callao. 

TENDER  FLYING-FISH. 

SOLD  AT  SINGAPORE. 


Commandant. 

Midshipman. 

Ac.  Master's  Mate, 
Midsliipman. 

Midshipman. 

Master's  Mate. 
Acting  Master. 

Purser's  Steward. 


Commanding  schooner  most  of  the  cruise; 

joined  Vincennes  at  Singapore. 
Joined  Peacock  at  Callao,  and  Vincennes 

at  Feejec. 
i.  Detached;  joined  Relief  at  Rio. 
Joined  the  Vincennes  at  Rio;  detached  at 

Callao. 
Joined  Vincennes  at  Rio,  Peacock  at  Feejec, 

and  Vincennes  again  at  Columbia  river. 
Detached  at  Honolulu. 
Joined   Vincennes  at  Callao,   Peacock  at 

Fecjee,  and  Oregon  at  Columbia  river. 
Joined  Peacock  at  Callao,  and  Oregon  at 

Columbia  river. 


lao,  and  Vincennoa 


Bay. 


0,  and  Oregon  at 

-y.  Flying-Fish  at 
otached  at  Ilono. 

)raiigo   Ba}-,    and 
in  April,  1841. 
V'inccnncs  at  Fee- 
I  Francisco. 


10. 

■d  Relief. 


st  of  the  cruise; 

japorc. 

,  and  Vincennes 

Rio. 
io;  detadicd  at 

acock  at  Fcojce, 
Columbia  river, 

10,  Peacock  at 
)Iuinl)ia  river. 
and  Oregon  at 


.Toiix  Anderson, 
JoPEpii  R.  Atkins, 
CnAiu-ES  Alleu, 

Sl'EI'IlEX  F.  AXCJELL, 

.^o^*El•II  C.  Allen, 
.Ir:.v\  Antoma, 

JosKl'II  Al-ESIIOUSE, 


1ST    OF    OFFICERS    AND    MEN. 
Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman, 
Ord'y  Seaman 


xxxvu 


Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman, 

Private. 


.Tames  Anueuson, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

.Toii.v  Anderson, 

Seaman. 

James  Allman, 

Private. 

Silas  Atkins, 

Seaman, 

Pktek  Ackerman, 

Seaman. 

.ToiiN  Ayres, 

Landsman. 

CirAULEfi  Ar)AMS, 

Cooper. 

John  Brown,  1st, 

Seaman, 

RoilERT  Bovi.K, 

Seaman. 

.i. 

IlENRy  BUCKETT, 

Quarter  Master. 

,$• 

1 

John  Brooks, 

Seaman. 

IIenrv  Batciielor, 

Seaman. 

^ 

.ToiiN  Black, 

Boatsn's  Mate. 

Henry  Blackstone, 

Seaman. 

FuANKLIN  BroW.V, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

David  Banks, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

J 

Peter  Brown, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

J- 

David  Bartlett, 

Seaman, 

John  Brown,  3d, 

1st  Class  Boy. 

John  I,.  Blake, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

John  Bremot, 

Ord'y  Seam.m. 

4* 


.Joined    in    the    United   States;    returned, 

expiration  of  cruise. 
Joined  at  Sydney ;    scrv.'d  to  end  of  the 

cruise. 
Joined  at  Oaliu;  served  to  the  end  of  the 

cruise. 
Joined  at  Oaliu;  run  at  Oahu. 
Joined  at  Oahu;  run  at  Hawaii. 
Joined  at  Cape  Town;  served  to  the  end  of 

the  cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  died  October 

30th,  1841. 
Joined  at  Callao;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Callao ;  killed  by  tho  natives  at 

Drummond  Island. 
Joined   in   tlio  United  States;  served  the 

cruise.  * 

Joined  in  tho  United  States ;  returned  in 

the  Relief. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  at  Callao ;  run  at  Sydney. 
.Joined  at  Oahu;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Sydney. 
Joined   in   the  United    States;  discharged 

at  Sydney. 
Joined   in  the  United   States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United   States;  served  the 

cruiKc. 
.Joined  in  tlie  United  States;  discharged 

at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 

at  Oalm,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 

at  Rio,  Dee.  31st,  1838. 
Joined  at  Rio ;  run  at  Upolu,  Nov.  10th, 

1830. 
Joined  at  Rio;  served  the  cruise. 
.Joined  at  Rio;  run  at  Sydney,  Dec.  31st, 
1839. 

Joined   at  Rio;    discharged  Juno    30th, 

1810. 
.Joined  at  Rio;  run  at  Callao,  July  13th, 

1839. 


XXXVlll 


LIST    or   OFFICERS    AND    MEN. 


John  Buckikv, 

Fkedekick  Heale, 
Andrew  A.  Brown, 
Shei.den  Benedict, 
John  B.vuTiior.oMKw, 

Jonx  A.  Brown, 
Ebenezer  Bartholomew, 

DkIIIIY  B.\TCIIl;L01i, 

David  Batk.ma.n, 
Richard  Brothers, 
James  Brown, 
Joseph  Bass, 

James  Berrv, 

John-  Bai'tistk, 
John  W.  Boysox, 

John  F.  Brown, 
Roi!i:>!T  C.  Bernard, 
Alexander  Bowman, 
Sajh.el  Brown, 

William  Brown,  2d, 
Alexander  Barron, 

Peter  Bowen, 
Walston  Bradley, 
William  Bruce, 
Davy  Beal, 

John  Brookins, 

AUTIMEL'S  W.  BeALS, 

William  Bostwick, 

Theodore  Beton, 
Robert  Brown, 

William  Brisco, 

Charles  Berry, 

David  Burns, 


Officers'  Steward 


Ord'y  Scaiiiaii. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
Qi.  (Jiinncr. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 

Landsman. 
Ord'y  .Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman, 

Private. 

Seaman. 

Carpenter's  I\Iat( . 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Seaman. 
Seaman. 
1st  Class  Boy. 

Seaman. 
Quarter  Ma;  tcr. 
Seaman. 
Capt.  Foreca.sfli . 

Ord'y  Seaman. 
Ord'y  .Seaman. 

Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
Ijaiulsman. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 
Caj)(.  riuld. 
t'apt.  Cook. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 
Boatsn's  I\Iati.'. 

Armourer. 

Mast.  Arms. 

Officers'  Cook. 


Joine.i  at  Valparaiso;  discliarged  at  Cal- 

lao,  June,  1839. 
Joined  at  Sydney  ;  run  at  New  Zealand. 
Joined  at  New  Zealand  ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  New  Zealand ;  served  the  cruise 
Joined  at  Oaliu ;  run  at  Oaliu,  Nov.  actli 

1841. 
Joined  at  Oaliu;  served  tlio  cruise. 
Joined  at  Maui ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  IMaui ;  run  at  Oaliu,  Nov.  2Gtli 

1841. 
Joined  in  the  United  Slates ;  died  at  Fee 

jcc  Islands,  June  30tli,  1840. 
Joined   ill  the   United   States;  sent  home 

from  Rio,  sick. 
Joiued  in  the   United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  tlie   United   States;  served   the 

cruise. 
•Joined  at  Rio ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Valparaiso ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined    at    the    Feejee    Islands;    run    at 

Oahu. 
Joined  at  Oaliu ;  served  tlie  cruise. 
Joined  at  Valparaiso  ;  served  tiie  cruise. 
Joined  at  Oahu ;  run  at  Singapore. 
Joined  in  tiie  l.'nited  Slates;  discharged  ai 

Oahu,  Nov.  2d,  1840. 
•T'llned  in  tlie  United  States  ;  run  at  Rio. 
Joined   in  tlie  United    Slates;  di.scharged 

at  Oaliu,  Nov.  2d,  1840. 
Joined  al  Rio;  run  at  Valparaiso. 
.Joined  at  Valparaiso  ;  run  at  Callao. 
Joined  at  Valparaiso;  run  at  Sydney. 
Joined  at  Callao;  left  siek   in   charge  of 

Consul  at  Sydney. 
Joined  at  Upolu;  served  l!ie  cruise. 
Joined  ai  Upolu;  served  tlie  cruise. 
Joined   in   the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  at  Rio ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined   in  tlie  United   States;  diseiiarged 

at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;   served  tiu 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  returned  in 

Relief. 
.Joined  in  the  United  States;  returned  in 
Relief. 


larged  at  Cal- 

ew  Zoaland. 
kt'd  the  cruifcf. 
red  tlio  cruisi' 
liu,  Nov.  acth 

cruisu. 
cruise. 
Iiu,  Nov.  SGtli, 

;  died  at  Fut- 

10. 

s ;  sent  lionu- 

s;  served  the 

3;  served  tlu- 

lisc. 

tlic  cruise. 

lids;    run    at 

;rujse. 

llie  cruise. 
1 1  lore, 
liseliargi'd  ai 

run  at  Rio. 
;  discliarged 

liso. 

Callao. 

%diiey. 

n  cliargc  oi" 

rui.se. 
ruise. 
;  served  tlu 

se, 
disciiargi'd 

served  tlu 

returned  in 

returned  in 


LIST   OF    OFFICERS    AND    MEN, 
.Ton.v  n.  Brown, 

JoSEril  BRIJim,ECO.MB, 


XXXIX 


Seaman. 
Seaman. 


J  Patiuok  Boyi.e, 

^  Thomas  Buiike, 

^  Piiii.ir  Babb, 

'^  George  Butter, 

David  Bf.odoet, 

i*  Jacob  Bomm, 

J.' 

FiiAXCIS  Bakeb, 

Henry  Bingham, 
Garret  Cole, 

w.  h.  cumjiings, 

I  .Mason  Crowell, 

.loHN  Cooper, 

James  Cummings, 

Isaac  Carmky, 

Charles  J.  Colson, 

Daniel  Clute, 

RoSWELL  CaNN, 

James  Corse, 
William  Claisk, 
EzEKiEL  Cooper, 
■  Jasper  Cuopsey, 

'  Tom  Coffin, 

K  George  Croker, 

'•:  D.vviD  Cropsey, 

7  George  Case, 

Epiibai.m  Coffin, 
Joseph  Claiik, 

Robert  Ca.mpbell, 


.Toined  in  tlic  United  States ;  returned  in 

Relicr. 
Joined  in  tlic  United  States ;  returned  in 

Relief. 
1st  Class  Boy.  Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Rio. 

Priva'e.  Joined   in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 
Private.  Joined  in  the   United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 
Officers'  Cook.         Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 
Officers'  Cook.         Joined  in  the  Unit(  d  St.ites  ;  died  at  Navi- 
gator's Islands,  Nov.  6th,  1839. 
Capt.  Forecastle.     Joined  in  the   United  States :  served  the 

cruise. 
Ord'y  Seaman.         .Toined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise, 
Ord'y  Seaman.         Joined  at  Oaliu;  served  the  cruise, 
Ord'y  Seaman,        Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 
Boatsn's  Mate.        Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 
Landsman.  Joined  in  the  United   States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Armourer.  Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Seaman,  Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged  at 

Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 
1st  Class  Boy.  Joined  in   the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 
Hosp.  Steward.        Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged  at 

Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 
Quarter-Master.      Joined  in  the  United  States;  lost  in  the 

Sea.GuU. 
1st  Class  Boy.         Joined  in  the  United  States ;  lost  in  the 

Sca-Gull. 
Seaman,  Joined  at  Rio;  .sent  homo  in  Relief. 

Ord'y  Seaman.         .Joined  at  Sydney ;  served  out  the  cruise. 
Ord'y  Seaman.         Joined  at  Oahu  ;  run,  same  place. 
Ord'y  Seaman.         Joined  at  Oahu;  served  the  cruise. 
Seanian.  Joined  at  Oahu ;  run  at  Hawaii. 

Ord'y  Seaman,         .Joined  at  Hawaii ;  r.!,-i  at  Oahu. 
Ord'y  Seaman.         Joined  at  Maui ;  served  the  cruise. 
Seaman.  .Joined  at  Oahu;  served  the  cruise. 

Ord'y  Seaman.         Joined  at  Oahu ;  discharged  at  California. 
Corp'i  Marines.       .Toin-Hl  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Private,  Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 


I  ', 


.r  ! 


Xl  LIST 

Lawrence  Cavbkauoi;, 

Jusiirii  Clark, 

Isaac  Cook, 

John  II.  Coi.E, 

Charles  Clifford, 

Pall  Cameli,, 
Ciiarlks  Ciiancv, 

JaMKS  CUNNINUUAM, 

Richard  Coopkk, 
Levin  Clark, 

GaYLOUD  I'.  ClIURCIIILL, 

Joshua  Cary, 
Jamks  Crontu, 

Joseph  Crosby, 

Alfred  Cassedy, 
William  Cleuo, 

John  Cook, 

William  Carter, 

John  Cook, 

Charles  Chapman, 
James  Coblrn, 
CiEORGE  Cook, 

Valentine  Dister, 

Jerome  Davis, 

John  Doughty, 

John  Demock, 

John  Dismond, 

James  Dunn, 

Alexander  Dunn. 


OF    O  r  F  I  C  E  R  S    A  N  D    M  E  N. 


Frivute. 

Seaman. 

Ord'y  Soaman. 

Capt.  Top. 

Capt.  Top. 

OiHciTs'  Slcwiird, 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
Ord'y  Soaiuaii. 
Ord'y  Scaiiiim. 
Capt.  Top. 

Ord'y  Spaiiiaii. 
TrivaU'. 
Ord'y  Scamaii. 

Carpenter's  Mate. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 

Seaman. 

Capt.  Top. 

Boatsn's  Mate. 

Capt.  Top. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
2d  Class  Boy. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Capt.  Top. 

Capt.  Top. 

Seaman. 

Officers'  Steward. 

Cockswain. 


Joined  in  llie   United  States ;  nerved  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  Liio  United  States;  served  tlio 

cruise. 
Jeined  in  tlio  United   States ;  served  tlio 

cruise. 
Joined  in  lliu  United  States;  discharged  at 

Oaliu,  2d  November,  1810. 
J'  ■'•  )(j  in  tliii  Unite'!  States;  diseliarged  at 
'    '(!  November,  1840. 

i'iilparaiso  ;  run  at  Sydney. 
Jc  }     .  at  C'allao ;  r   :).  at  Sydney. 
Joined  at  (Juliuu  ;  run  at  Taliiti. 
Joined  at  Upolu;  run  at  Sydney. 
Joined   in   the   United  Stales;  served  tiio 

cruise. 
Joined  at  Ouhu ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Rio. 
Joined    in    tlie    United    Stales;    run    at 

Sydney. 
Joined  in  the  United  States ;  returned  in 

Relief. 
Joined  in  tlie  United  States;  run  at  Callao. 
Joined  in  tlie  United  States;  returned  in 

Relief. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  returned  in 

Relief: 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  at  Callao ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Isew  Zcaliind;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  (     hu ;  diseharged  same  place, 

November     Uli,  1841. 
Jiiined  in  tlu.   United  Slates;  transferred 

to  Independence,  at  Kio. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  iu  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  tlife 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined   iu   llie  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined   in  the  United  States;  diseharged 

at  Rio,  November  30Ui,  1838. 


^^■' 


LIST    OF    O  F  F  I  f ;  i;  II  S    AND    MEN. 


Xli 


ten ;  nerved  the 

Joiiv  W.  Diviv, 

Ord'y  Seanuin. 

ClIUISTlAX  DollI,K.MA\, 

M:isler-at-Ariiis. 

tcsj  served  the 

,   ■ 

Jamks  Damki.s, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

tea ;  served  tlio 

Jami:^  Dowi.ino,  1st, 

Staniun, 

John  N.  Di:an, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

i;  diKoliargcd  at 
0. 

John  K.  Dav, 

Laiulsinaii, 

i ;  diseliurfred  at 

.ToiiN  Pav.i),  1st, 

1st  Class  Boy. 

:0. 

IlArivKv  Dkan, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

at  Sydney. 

Joiix  Davis,  2d, 

Suaiiian, 

^fdney. 

Jamks  Dowmno,  2d, 

Landsman. 

uliiti. 

C'lIAlll.KS  DlKUKN, 

Seaiiinn, 

:diicy. 

John  Disiiiiow, 

Private, 

Ils;  served  the 

Addison  Dunbar, 

Private. 

B  cruise. 

■-S 

j ;  run  at  Rio, 

■iff 

Wii.i.iAJi  Dammon, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

tates ;    run    at 

Gkorgk  Daily, 

Ord'y  Seainnn. 

William  Daily, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

•a;  returned  in 

SiKi'iiKN  "W .  Days, 

IIosj).  Steward. 

J  run  ut  Callao. 

Solomon  Disney, 

Sailmaker's  Mate, 

H ;  returned  in 

JoSKl'II  DoLf:VAR, 

Seaman, 

■s;  returned  in 

Thomas  Dewees, 

Corporal, 

;cs;  served  the 

Thomas  Derling, 

Ord'y  Seaman, 

Samuel  Dinsman, 

Seaman, 

es ;  served  tlie 

JosErii  De  Silva, 

1st  Class  Roy. 

e  cruise. 

.J 

■ved  the  c/uisc. 

Samuel  Dinsman, 

Corp'l  Marines. 

3d  Biinie  place, 

David  Dalton, 

Officers'  Steward. 

-'s;  transferred 

Thomas  Dickenson, 

Carpenter's  Mate. 

cs;  served  the 

i 

? 

William  Dillon, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

csj  served  the 

,i 

James  Dehley, 

Seaman. 

"1 

Charles  Erski"  , 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

es;  served  tlife 

i 

George  Elliott, 

1st  Class  Boy. 

es;  served  tlic 

'4 

W.  II.  Eldridce, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

T- 

Henry  Evans, 

Officers'  Cook. 

es;  served  the 

S 

.' 

Samuel  Eastman, 

Quartcr-Mastcr. 

■s;  discharged 

*^ 

B38. 

-    . 

VOL.  1. 

p 

.Toinid  at  Bio;  run  at  Sydney, 

Joined  in  llie  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  at  Sydney ;  run  at  New  Zealand, 
.Toiiied  111  Sydney;  run  at  New  Zealand. 
Joined  at  Sydney;  served  the  cruise. 
.Toiiied  at  New  Zealand  ;   served  out  tiio 

cruise. 
Joined  at  New  Zealand  ;  run  at  Oahu, 
Joined  at  Oahu ;  run  at  Singapore, 
Joined  ut  Oahu  ;  run  at  Hawaii. 
.Joined  at  Oahu;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Rio;  returned  in  Relief. 
Joined   in   the   TJnitcd  States;  served  tho 

cruise. 
Joined  in  tlic  United   States;  served  the 

cruise. 
.Toincd  at  C'allao;  served  the  cruise, 
.Toiiicil  at  Oalui;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Oahu  ;  served  tho  cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;   served  tlie 
cruise. 
.  Joined  in  the  United  States;   served  tlie 
cruise. 
Joined  at  Valparaiso;  served  the  cruise, 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  a^  Valparaiso;  run  at  Oahu, 
Joined  in  the  United  States ;  returned  in 

the  Relief. 
Joined  at  Rio ;  transferred  to  Falmouth  at 

Callao, 
Joined   in  the  United  Stales;  served  tlio 

cruise. 
Joined   in  the  United   States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  tlic  United  States;   served  the 

cruise. 
.Toined  at  Sydney  ;  run  at  Oahu. 
Joined  at  Oahu  ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined   in   the  United  States;  .serv.u  the 

cruise. 
Joined  at  Valparaiso;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Cape  Town ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Fort 

George,  Columbia  River, 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged  at 
Oahu,  October  3Ist,  1810, 


Il  ' 


xlii  r- 1  s 

William  Eastwitoh, 
Jajiks  ri.I.IOTTK, 

William  FnAziEit. 
John  Fenxo, 

He.nrv  a.  Fki.s-o.v, 

William  Forsdick, 

John  Fipk, 
Thomas  Ford, 

WiM.ivM  FnAzn:n,  2(1, 
Edwaiu)  Fox, 

FllEDKRIOK  Fltir.M)?, 

Matthew  Fhancisco, 
Ai.EXAMiKR  C.  Fowler, 

John  Francis, 
James  Fritz, 
Stephen  Fosdick, 

RonERT  Furbian, 

Theodore  French, 

Kinnard  Fo1!E.>L\N, 

Isaac  Frietus, 

Robert  Fletcher, 

Vincent  Fiiietus, 
William  Finney, 
JosErii  Francis, 
Henry  Ciioss, 

TiYMAN  GayLARI), 
WiLI.IA.M  GiLLAN, 

Matthew  Garrican, 

James  IT.  Giiisdn, 

James  IF.  Grev, 
James  Graham, 


T  OF    OFFICERS    AND    MEN. 


Ord'y  Scaiiiiiii. 

Gunner's  Miitn, 

Scainnn, 
Seninnn. 

Ord'y  Scnmnii. 

On''  ■  ScniiKiii. 

Ord'y  Pcainiiii. 
Ord'y  Rciimiin. 
Ord'y  Sc:im:ni. 
Officers'  Steward, 
Ord'y  Scainiiii. 
Ord'y  ScRijuui. 
Sciiiiinn. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 
Qr.  Gunner. 
Gunner's  Mnto. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Sliip's  Cook. 

Sailniaker's  Male, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

2d  Class  Hoy. 
Landsman. 

Seaman. 
Officers'  Cook. 
Carpenfer's  Mate. 

Seaman. 

Landsman. 

Cockswain. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 


Joined   in  flic  United  Stales;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  Uiiiled  States;  sent  home  in 

the  Relief. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Sydney. 
Joined  in  the   United  States;  served  out 

tlic  cruise. 
Joined  in  the   United  Slates;  served  out 

the  cruise. 
Joined  in  the  T'nilcd  Stales;  ruM  at  Oahu, 

Oct.  3l8t,  1840. 
Joined  at  Rio ;  served  out  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Rio;  served  out  the  cruise. 
.Toined  at  Rio;  lost  in  the  Sea-Gull. 
Joined  at  Sydney ;  discharged  at  Oahu. 
Joined  at  Oaliu;  served  (jiil  (lie  cruise. 
Joined  at  Oahu;  discharged  same  place, 
JoiiK.d  in  the  United  States;  served  out 

the  cruise. 
.Toined  in  the  United  Slates;  run  at  Rio. 
Joined  at  Rio;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  tlic, 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 

at  Oahu,  31st  Oct.  1810. 
.Toined  in  the   United  States;  discharged 
5lh  August,  18,'i!). 
.  Joined  atCallao;  returned  to  United  States 
in  the  Relief. 
Joined   at    Madeira;    discharged    March 

31st,  1810. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 

at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 
.Toined  at  Rio;  run  at  Valpnraiso. 
.Toined  at  Calluo  ;  run  at  Oalm. 
.Toined  at  Oahu;  discharged  at  same  place. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Oaliu. 
Joined  in  the  United   Slates;  discharged 

at  Sydnej'. 
Joined  in   the   United   Stales;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  ill  Ihe  T'niled  Stales,  sent  home  in 
tlie  Relief. 

Joined  in  (he  Uniled   Slules ;  served  the 

eniiue, 
Joi];:  d  in  (he  United  States;  run  at  Oahu. 
Joined  in  the   United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 


rs;  served  the 

;  scut  lioinc  in 

run  ntSydnoy. 
IS  ;  served  onl 

e.s ;  served  out 

;  riri  nt  Oaliu, 

w.  cruise. 
ic  cruise. 
ciiXJidl. 
:ed  at  Oaliu, 
tlie  cruise, 
I  same  place, 
■s;  served  out 

;  run  at  Rio. 

iiisc. 

s ;  served  the, 

s ;  discliarged 

s ;  discliarged 

United  States 

irgcd    March 

i;  discliarged 

•aiso. 

n\. 

It  same  place. 

run  at  Oahu. 

! ;  diseliiirged 

;;  served  tlic 

Sent  )ionie  in 

;  served  the 

run  at  O.ihu, 
J  served  ilie 


LIST 

OF    OI'FIC 

John  Gbikm, 

Soanmn, 

James  Guken, 

Capt.  Top. 

Bahnev  GiHuoNs, 

Landsman. 

FllANLlS  (iAlllllSOX, 

Scuinan, 

Madison  Gheen, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

.TosEl'll  M'GOJIKV, 

Ord'y  SeamaiL 

II1.MIV  GllEKM'Ilil.l), 

Boatsn's  Mute. 

Daniel  Ghek.s, 

Gunner's  Mate. 

Thomas  Gheen, 

Quurter-Masttr, 

Natiiamei,  Gooun'jE, 

Capt.  Forc-lop. 

John  V.  Ghikfen, 

Seaman. 

IjUuwicj  Gkaves, 

Scaniani 

liollllKT  GoOUWIN, 

Ord'y  Seaman, 

Thomas  Gohden, 

Ord'y  SeamaiL 

GllIIFlTH  tilUl'FlTH, 

Cupt.  Top. 

rEKCiUS  GaI.I.AUHER, 

Cooper. 

John  Gaunt, 

Seaman, 

Domingo  Gonzalez, 

Seaman, 

John  A,  CiAHONEii, 

Ord'y  Seaman, 

Moses  (jalchell. 

Seaman. 

John  Goiiden, 

Quarter-BIaster, 

John  Gillin, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Ezra  Green, 

Yeoman. 

JoSEI'Il  GuXDV, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

John  Green, 

Boatsn's  Mate, 

William  Goodmax, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

John  Glovek, 

Capt.  Top. 

Manuel  Gliuu, 

2d  Class  Boy. 

James  Grey, 

Pilot. 

Edwin  Hubuard, 

Seaman. 

V.  R  S    A  x\'  D    MEN. 


xliii 


Joined  in  the  United  States ;  transferred 

(o  the  Inde])endence. 
Joined  in  the    United   tr'tates ;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  at  Rio;  run  at  Valparaiso. 
Joined  ut  Rio;  run,  April  Dth,  lc<10. 
Joined  at  Rio;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined   at  Calluo ;    discharged   at  Oahu, 

Oct,  31st,  18-10, 
Joined  in    the   United   Slates;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  Stales ;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the   United  Slates;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the   United   States;  served  tlie 

cruise. 
Joined  in   the  United   States ;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  at  Rio  ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Callao ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Oahu  ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Syd- 

ncy. 
Joined  in  the  United  States ;  returned  in 

the  Relief. 
Joined   in   the   United  States;  sent  home 

sick  from  Madeira. 
Joined  at  Rio;  returned  in  the  Relief 
Joined  at  Calluo;  run  at  Oahu. 
Joined  at  Callao;  run  at  Tahiti. 
Joined  in  the   United   States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined   in  the   United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  tlie  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the   Uniled   States;  discharged 

at  Rio,  Dec,  .31-t,  183S. 
Joined  in  the  United   Stales;  discharged 

at  Oahu,  Oct,  31st,  1810, 
Joined  in  lire  United  Stales;  run  at  Rio. 
Joined  rj  Callao ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined    at    i\Iadiira ;   returned   to   United 

States  in  the  Relief. 
Jonicd     at     Tongalaboo;    discharged    at 

Oalui,  Oct.  31st,  18-10. 
Joined    in   the  United  Slates;  served  the 
cruise. 


xliv  LIST    OF   O  F  F  I  C 

TitoviAS  Harden,  Officers'  Cook. 


James  Harrison, 

John  Harmon, 

John  Harmon, 

WiM.iAM  Hyde, 

liFwis  Herron, 

James  Henderson, 

Lvranub  Hatuh, 

Henry  Hughes, 

Henry  I?,  Hever, 

Henry  Hudson, 

Lawrence  Hufford, 

James  Haskins, 

James  Haggerty, 

William  H.  Hicks, 

WovAL  Hope, 
John  Ih  .ris, 
CiiAs.  T).  Hornistox, 
Daviu  Haining, 
Antonio  Hernandez, 
Wm.  Hutchinson, 

WiNSLOW  F.  HiGGINS, 

John  Hall, 
John  Hellender, 
George  Husted, 

Jacob  Harrid, 

Samuel  Hobsen, 

Edward  Hill, 

Robinson  Hicks, 
John  Hughes, 


OflictTH'  Stuwaril. 

Cnpf,  ForecaHtIc, 

Seaman, 

Curpcntcr'a  Mate 

Cooper, 

Quartcr-Mastcr. 
Seaman, 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
QiiartiT-Mastcr. 
Seaman, 
Seaman.' 
1st  CIttss  Boy. 
Ord'y  Seaman, 
Ord'i'  Seaman. 

Landsman. 

Landsman. 

Scaiiiuii. 
Ord'y  Seaman, 
Ofllcers'  Si^ivard. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
Ord'}-  Seaman. 
Ord'y  Tieaman, 
Seaman. 
Quartcr-Mastcr. 

Seaman. 

Armourer. 

Seaman. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 
2d  Class  Hoy. 


ERS    AND    MEN, 

.roimd  ia  the  United   States  ;  served  tlie 

cruise. 
Jiiiii('<l  in  liio   United  States;  discliarged 

at  Madeira 
Jdini'd    In   (lie   United  States;  serveu  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  tlio  United  States;  served  th6 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  tho 

cruise. 
Joined  in  tlic  United  States;  served  tho 

cruise. 
Joined   in  the  United  States;  discharged 

at  New  Zealand. 
Joined  in  the  United  States:  discliarged 

at  Oalui,  Oet.  3]8t,  1810. 
Joined  in  tlic  United  States;  served  tlio 

cruise. 
Joined  in  tlio  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
.Joined  in  tho   ITnited  States;  sent  liomc 

in  the  Relief. 
Joined  in  tlie   United  States;  served  tho 

cruise 
Joined  in  tlie  United  States ;  sent  home  in 

tlic  Relief. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  sen',  liomr  in 

the  Relief 
Joined  at  Rio;  run  at  Oahu, 
Joined  at  Rio;  run  at  Sydney, 
.Toined  at  Rir, ;  run  at  Valparaiso, 
Joined  at  Rio;  lost  in  tlic  Sea.Gull. 
Joined  at  Cnllao;  discharged  at  California. 
Joined  at  Hawaii ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Maui;  served  tlic  cruise. 
Joined  at  Cape  Town;  served  tiio  cruise. 
.Toined  at  Rio;  served  tho  cruise. 
.Toined   in  the  United  States;  discliarged 

at  Oalui,  Nov.  3d,  1810. 
Joined    in    tlio    United    States;    run    at 

Callao. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  returned  in 

tlic  Relief. 
Joined  in  tho  United  States;  discharged  at 

Oahu.  Nov.  2d,  1840. 
.Toined  in  tlie  United  States;  run  at  Sydney, 
Joined  at  Callao ;  run  at  Oahj, 


,* 


-M 


tcs ;  nerved  the 
cH ;  (liNclmrgcd 
en ;  acrvoQ  tho 
ch;  served  tho 
ca ;  ficrvrd  Iho 
OS ;  served  tho 
cs;  served  tho 
:s ;  discharged 
;s :  disolinrgcd 
28;  served  the 
!s;  served  the 
^s  J  sent  home 
■s;  served  tho 
sent  liomc  in 
sen',  lioino  in 

y- 

•aisn. 
a.Gull. 
at  California, 
!  cruise. 
Tuise. 

1  tho  cruise, 
lisc. 
;  discharged 

tcs  J    run    at 

:  returned  in 

lischargcd  at 

in  at  Sydney. 


LIST   OF   omcERS    AND   MEN 


xlv 


John  If  AooEnTV, 
John  IIarriso.v, 
Asa  Hart, 

Emanuel  Howard, 

John  Harman, 

Arthur  Hughes, 

Amos  Howei.l, 

John  C.  Head, 

Wm,  p.  Hepfehman, 

James  G.  Hanburv, 

Santo  Hercules, 

Samuel  B.  Holt, 

James  Hunt, 

Benjamin  Holden, 

Alvin  Harris, 

Nathaniel  Harris, 

William  Haves,, 

James  Haves, 

Henry  Hasimond, 

Lewis  Hanson, 

Thomas  Hjnes, 
Fkancis  G.  Huogins, 

William-  Jarrett, 

William  Johnson, 

Archibald  Jackson, 

Francis  J  isErn, 


Ord'y  Seaman.        Joined  at  Ujiolu  j  run  at  Sydney. 
Soanmn.  Joined  at  Oiiliu;  run  at  Singapore. 

Joined  in  the   United   States;  served  tho 

cruise, 
coined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  tho  United  Slates;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  tliu  United  States;  served  tho 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;   .^cnt  home 

from  Rio,  slelt. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
.Tnined  in  tiic  United  States;  discharged  at 
Oahu,  Oct.  3l8t,  1840. 
Hosp.  Steward.       Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  tlie 
cruiso. 
Joined  in  tlio  United  States;  discharged  in 

New  Zealand. 
Toined  in  ilio  United  States;   discharged 

;'t  Oal'u,  Octohc.  Slst,  1840. 
Joined  in  the   United  States;   served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States  .•  died  at  Cal- 
lao,  July  8th,  1839. 
Saihnakcr's  Mate.  Joined  in  tho  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 
Ord'y  Seaman.        Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged  at 

N'w  Zealand,  31st  March,  1840. 
Seaman.  Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Ord'y  Seaman.        Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Quarter.Mnster.      Joined   in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Ord'y  Seaman.         Joined  at  Callao;  discharged  at  Sydney, 

Dec.  16th,  1839. 
Ord'y  Seaman.        Joined  at  Oahu;  served  thecruise. 
Seaman.  Joined  at  Sandwich   islands;  served  tho 

cruise. 
Mastcr^t-Arms.      Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged  at 

Oahu,  October  31st,  1840. 
Sea'nan.  Joined  in  tli,;  United  States;  sent  home  in 

the  Relief: 
Is'.  Class  Boy.  Joined  in  tlic  United  States;  discharged 

at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 
Seaman.  Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 


Ord'y  Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaniun. 
Private. 
Private. 
Capt.  Hold. 
Capt.  Top. 
Capt.  Top. 


Seaman. 
Capt.  Hold. 
Private. 
Private. 


\lvi 


TlIOMAII  JoNM, 


MST  OF   Oiric  i:«S    AND    MEN. 


Francii  Joiinion, 

RoHRIlT  JolfNHON, 
Wir.LIAM  JoNKi,  lit, 

Jim\  JosKrii, 

Wll.I.lAM  Jo.NEH, 
ClIAHI.KH  JoHVI.', 

Davio  Jonks, 
William  Jewkll, 

William  Jkfkrirs, 

SaMUKL  J.  JuRUON, 

A.  Jacuuinot, 
Warren  Johnson, 

John  Jones, 
Thomas  Jefferson, 

Uanikl  Jkffbrhon, 

HK.NRy  Johnson, 
Elijah  Kino, 

Thomas  Kennedy, 
Stephen  Kniuht, 

Charles  Knowles, 

Richard  Kino, 
Wm.  II.  Kino, 

Charles  Kinoslano, 
Allen  W.  Kirdv, 

John  Kellum, 

Samuel  Keenan, 

John  Kedd, 

John  King, 

Joseph  Llmont, 

Francis  Linthicum, 

Godfrey  Letourno, 


f^i'iiriiliM. 

Ord'y  SiMiiiiuii. 
Sniiimn. 
Si'iiiiiiin, 
('ii1''''n  Hli'wnrd, 
Si'iiiiiim, 
Ord'y  Si;iiniini. 
Si'iiiimii. 
Suaiiian, 

Ord'y  aeainiiii. 
Ord'y  Suiimaii. 

Ahm'I  tie,  Clli'iJ:). 

Ofiiccrs'  Steward 

Ord'y  Scuiimii. 
Scamiiii. 

Ord'y  Scninnn. 

Ord'y  Scaniiin. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 

Seaman, 
Ship's  Cook. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 
Corp.  Marines. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 
Capt.  Hold. 

Quarter-Mastcr. 

Seaman. 

Seaman, 

Seaman, 

Seaman. 

Cockswain, 

Seaman, 


Ji'iiird  in   Old  irnjted  atiitt'H;  mnt  homo 

Iti  the  liclief. 
Joined  at  Uioj  hcnt  iioino  in  Ihr  Relief. 
Jninid  lit  Rio  I  loNt  in  tiie  .S.ii.Ciiill. 
Jiiiti(<l  at  Rio;  rnn  nt  the  Name  place, 
.loiiii  d  lit  Vnl|iiiraiso;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Rloi  si'rved  the  crtiino, 
Jdiiicd  lit  V'iil;uiraiHo;  hitvciI  thi^  criliso. 
Joined  lit  Onim;  hi  rved  the  eriiiHo, 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged  at 

Oahn,  Nov.  3(1,  1810. 
.loimd  ill  Ilie  L'liitcd  StutcM  j  run  at  Rio. 
Joined  at  Sydney  ;  run  at  Haino  place. 
Joined  at  Rio;  run  lit  C^alluo, 
Joined   at  Oahu;    run   at   Fort  Ocorgo, 

OrCfroii. 

Joined  lit  Sydney;  served  the  eruiHe. 
Joined  in  tho  United  States ;  returned  in 

the  Relief. 
.Toinid  ill  the  United  States;  returned  in 

the  Jtelief. 
Joined  at  Oahu ;  served  the  rruisc. 
Joined  in  the  United  Sntes;  served  the 

eruit-e. 
Joined  at  Kio;  run  at  the  sa.no  place. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  d.-ieliarged  nt 

Oahu,  Oct.  .31  St,  1810. 
.Toiiied   in  the   United  States;  served  the 

cruise, 
.Toined  nt  Mnui ;  served  the  cruise, 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  at  Upolu ;  served  tho  cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  diseliarged 

at  Oahu,  Nov.  2d,  1840. 
Joined  in  the   United  States;  served  tho 

cruise. 
Joined   in  the  United  States;  discharged 

at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 
Joined  in  tho  United  States ;  run  at  Syd. 

ney. 
Joined   in  flic  United  States;  discharged 

nt  Oahu,  Oct.  .31st,  1840. 
Joined  in  tho  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
.Toined  in  tlio  United  States;  discharged  nt 

Oahu,  October  31st,  1840. 
Joined  in   the  United   States;  served  the 
cruise. 


1 


MST    ol     (MlICKius    AND    M  UN. 


utoi ;  Hcnt  homo 

)  in  Ihn  Rolitf. 
!Hrn.(iull. 

Hiiriii'  |ilii(;o. 
•vc'd  tlio  oruitiv. 

cruido, 

v('(l  till!  criiiNc. 
11)  cruino, 
m;  diMclmrgud  at 

JH ;  run  at  Rio. 
Naitio  placu, 
luo, 
t   Fort  ficorgu, 

tliu  rniittu, 
Ics;  ruturncd  in 

Icsj  rt'turncd  in 

i()  cruise. 

ittH ;  served  the 

sano  place, 
s;  (hJt'lmrgod  nt 

■tc's ;  served  tlie 

0  cruise, 

tus;  served  the 

10  cruise. 

tcs ;  diselinrged 

(es ;  served  the 

;cs ;  discharged 

a ;  run  at  Syd. 

es;  discharged 

es;  served  the 

;  discharged  nt 

esj  served  the 


Xlvil 


I'l  Ttri  T.mvis, 
.I(iii\  rMTi'v, 
W'm.  J.  r.KM'iKn, 

W  M,  r.AWRKNCK, 
|)»vni  I.KAVITT, 
(■■HUI.IiH  f.HAII, 
r.WMIK.VCK  riTTI.KVKAH, 

(Jii,\rii.i:H  T.nwK, 

U'lI.I.IAM  LloVD, 

WlM.IAM  LoUK, 
.IcillN  f.liWlH, 
\\'AHniN{JTON  LVNKB, 
llr.NRY  I,UTIIKI(, 
.IlllIN  liKN.NAIlK, 


VVll.UAM  I/EE, 

.Ia.mk.s  Leavktt, 
l'i:iKR  Lines, 
Wji,  S.  Lo.nolev, 

liKIINAKI)  LoOAN, 
IIoitACK  liAMBON, 

James  Lowell, 
John  Lovd, 
William  Loyd, 

I-AUnENCE  M'GiLL, 
W.M.  M'DONALD, 

Henry  Mabee, 
Damel  M'CUrty, 
Francis  Montserat, 
James  Moran, 
John  M'Keen, 


Oiil'^'  SeMiiiun. 
hi  C'ittdii  Jloy. 
Seaman. 

Oril'y  Seal , 

Ord'y  Heaiiiaii, 
Ord'y  S(!uinan. 
I'rivule. 

Heuniun, 

Capt.  Top. 

Seaman. 
Stanian. 
Ord'y  Seaiiimi. 
Seaman. 
Seaman. 


Seaman, 
Capt.  Top. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Seaman. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Capt.  Forecastle. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Landsman. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
Seaman. 

Seaman. 
Quurter-Gunncr. 
Officers' Stcwiud. 
1st  Class  Boy, 
Ship's  Cook. 


Juiiicd  at  l{loi  nerved  out  tlio  cruiic. 
J.iiiKil  ill  Ri„;  served  out  the  cruixe. 
Joined  at  Rio;  served  oat  the  cruiwo. 
JoifM  il  at  Valpiiruirtoj  rim  ut  Sydney. 
Joined  at  Alaui ;  Hurvod  tlie  cruinc. 
Joined  at  Maui;  Herved  llie  cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  StutcKi  "ent  liome  in 
tlie  Relief. 

Joined   in  the  United   Slates  j  i-crvod  the 
cruiHe, 

Joined  ill  the  United  States;   served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  at  Oaliii;  discharged  Haiiie  place. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  IJio. 
Joined  in  the  United  Slutes ;  run  at  Rio. 
Joined  at  Rio;  run  at  A'alparaiso. 
Joined  at  l{io;  sent  to  tlio  United  States 

in  Helief. 
Joined  at  Callao ;  run  at  Sydney, 
Joined  in  tho  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United   States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  tho  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  tho  United  States;  returned  in 

the  Relief. 
Joined    at    Valparaiso;    sent    to    United 

States  in  Relief. 

Joined  in  the  United   Stales;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  tho  United  States;  run  at  Syd- 
ney. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  sent  home  in 
tho  Relief. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Ma- 
nilla. 

Joined  in   the    United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Syd- 
noy. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 

atRio,  Dec.  3Ist,  1838. 
Joined  in  the  United   States;  e  .-ved  the 

cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  returned  in 
the  Relief. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 


Wm.  Mim-er,  2(1, 
Justin  Mandon, 
Andrew  BIurrav, 
Joseph  Medley, 
Edward  M'Intiue, 
James  M'Kenzie. 


Peter  M'Fee, 
John  H.  Myres, 
Thomas  JIizir, 
Arthur  M'Gill, 


Frank  Mackey, 
Robert  Munroe, 
John  Munroe, 
Bernard  M'Gee, 
Lewis  Meaker, 

William  Migley, 

John  Meinev, 

George  Mitchell, 
TiiEonouE  Mather, 
Edward  Mott, 
Hugh  M'Briue, 
John  C.  March, 

James  3I'Cormick, 

Michael  Mhxeb, 

David  Miller, 

James  Marshall, 

William  Moody, 


Seaman. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Seaman. 
Landsman. 

Ord'y  Snaman. 
Capt.iin's  Cook. 
Seaman. 
Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
Private. 

Capt.  Top, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 
2d  Class  Boy. 
1st  Class  Boy. 
Seaman. 


LIST    OF   OFFICERS    AND    MEN. 


Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
Seaman, 
Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 

Quarter-Gunncr. 

Mastcr-at-Arnis. 

Quarter.Mastcr. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
Private. 

Seaman. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Ord'y  Seaman, 

Seaman. 

Quarter.Mastcr. 


Joined  in  the  United  States;   served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in   the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  lost  in  the 

Sea.G;ilI, 
Joined  at  Rio ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  at  Rio ;  run  at  Callao,  > 
Joined  at  Rio ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Sydney ;  run  at  Oahu, 
Joined  at  Ne     Zealand ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Cape  Town ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined   in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in   the  United  States;  discharged 

at  Oahu,  Nov,  20th,  1841. 
Joined  at  Callao ;  served  the  crul;e. 
Joined  at  Callao ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Tahiti ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined   at  Upolu ;    discharged    at  Oahu, 

Nov,  20th,  1841, 
Joined  at  Rio ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Valparaiso ;  run  at  Sydney. 
Joined  at  Valparaiso ;  run  at  Sydney, 
Joined  at  Callao ;  run  at  Sydney. 
Joined   at  Sydney;  discharged  at  Oahu, 

25th  Nov.  1840, 
Joined  in  the  United  States;   served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the   United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  at  Valparaiso ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Oaliu  ;  served  tl\e  cruise. 
Joined  at  Oahu  ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Upolu ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United   States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States ;  died  at  sea, 

15th  August,  1839. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  returned  in 

the  Relict: 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined   in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 


i 


LIST   OF   OFFICERS   AND    MEN. 


xlix 


tates ;  served  the 

states;  served  the 

tates;  lost  in  the 

c  cruise. 

itates;  served  the 

illao.  > 

e  cruise. 

.t  Oahu. 

served  tlic  cruise. 

crvod  the  cruise. 

Itates;  served  the 

tates ;  discharged 
!41. 

tlie  cruise. 

the  cruise. 

tlic  cruise. 
larged    at  Oahu, 

e  cruise. 

n  at  Sydney. 

n  at  Sydney. 

Sydnc}'. 

Iiarged  at  Oahu, 

;ate8;  served  the 

tates;  served  the 

•ved  tlie  cruise, 
lie  cruise, 
he  cruise, 
tlio  cruise, 
tates;  served  the 

tates;  served  the 

Ucs ;  died  at  sea, 

ates ;  returned  in 

tates;  served  the 

tates;  served  tlio 


John  More, 

Seaman. 

TnoMAs  Martin, 

Landsman. 

.lonN  Mitchell, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Stephen  M(irant, 

Seaman. 

Earl  Mumkin, 
Jack  Miller, 

Quartcr-Gunncr. 
Seaman. 

James  Nowland, 
William  Norton, 

Capt.  Top. 
Seaman. 

Edward  Nichols, 
John  Nebhut, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 
Private. 

Horatio  Nelson, 

Seaman. 

Nelson  Norton, 

Capt.  Top, 

William  Noble, 

Seaman. 

Thomas  Noble, 
G»-oRGE  Nichols, 
Joseph  Neale, 
Chas.  H.  Nicholson, 

Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
Officers'  Cook. 
Seaman. 

William  Neill, 

Quartcr-Master. 

Andrew  Nordston, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

James  Nurse. 

Officers'  Steward. 

Benjamin  Norton, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Thomas  Nisbet, 
William  Orr, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 

Alexander  Ogle, 

Corp.  Marines. 

John  Orr, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Ambrose  W.  Olivar, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Daniel  Osmand, 

Seaman. 

David  B.  Park, 

Sailmakcr's  Mate. 

Thomas  Finer, 

Quartcr-Masttr 

VOL.  I. 

6* 

Joined  i\  the  United  States;  discharged 

at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 
Joined  in  tlie  United  States;  discharged 

at  Rio,  Dec.  31st,  1838. 
Joined  at  Rio ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Sydney  j  run  at  Oahu. 
Joined  at  Oahu ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined   at  Sandwich   Islands;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Sydney. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged  at 

Rio,  Dec.  3Ist,  1838. 
Joined  at  Cape  Town ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  Jie  United  States;  discharged 

at  Oahu,  Oct.  3l8t,  1840. 
Joined  in  tlie  United  States;  discharged 

at  Oahu,  Nov.  2d,  1840.      ^ 
Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Val- 

llaraiso. 
Joined  at  Rio ;  sent  Iiomc  in  the  Relief. 
Joined  at  Valparaiso ;  run  at  Sydney. 
Joined  at  Callao ;  run  at  Sydney. 
Joined  in  tlie  United  States;  discharged 

at  Oahu,  Nov.  25th,  1841. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 

at  Rio,  Dec.  3d,  1838. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  tin 

cruise. 
Joined  at  Singapore ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joinrd  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  died  at  sea, 

Aug.  12th,  1839. 
Joined  in  the   United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  (lie  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Val- 
paraiso. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  tlic 

cruise. 
.Toinod  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 


>t 


^'•*..,s 


LIST  OF    OFFICERS   AND    MEN. 


George  Pokter, 

Benjamin  Fulmar, 

Thomas  Parker, 
William  Pearson, 
Oalvin  Proctor, 
James  Perry, 
George  Parker, 

Thomas  Penny, 
James  M.  Pottle, 

James  Patterson, 

Samuel  Pensyl, 

Robert  Pully, 

John  Polnell, 

James  Potter, 
George  Parmilla, 
James  Quin, 

Charles  Ray, 

Wm.  Roberts, 

Theodore  Rameris, 

Joseph  Reeves, 
'  /iluam  Robinson, 

William  Robbin, 

Michael  Ryan, 
William  Robb, 
John  Rivers, 
John  Roach, 
Abraham  Roberts, 
George  Rocket, 

James  Rock, 
John  Radley, 
George  Robinson, 
Edgar  A.  Richardson, 

Owen  Roberts, 


Seaman. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 
Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman, 
Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
Capt.  Top. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 
Private. 

Landsman, 

Private. 

Quarter-Master. 

Quarter-Gunner. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Ist  Class  Boy, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Quarter-Mastcr. 
Seaman. 

Quarter-Master. 

1st  Class  Boy. 
1st  Class  Boy. 
Ord'y  Seaman, 
Landsman. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
Landsman. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman, 
Ord'y  Seaman, 
Private. 

Private. 


Joined  in  the  United  States ;  died  at  sea, 

March  3d,  1842. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Sydney 
Joined  at  Rio ;  run  at  Sydney. 
Joined  at  Oahu ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Oaliu ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Oahu ;  served  tlie  eruisc. 
Joined    in    the    Unit»d    States;    run    at 

Sydney. 
Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Oahu, 
Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Val- 

paraiso. 
Joined  in  tlie  United  States ;  returned  in 

tlie  Relief. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  tlie  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United   States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Rio. 
Joined  at  New  Zealand ;  run  at  Oahu. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged  at 

Oahu,  Nov.  2d,  1840. 
Joined  in   the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Val- 

paraiso. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Sydney, 
Joined  in  the  United   States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States ;  returned  in 

the  Relief. 
Joined  at  Rio;  run  at  Sydney. 
Joined  at  Rio ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Rio ;  lost  in  the  Sea-GuU. 
Joined  at  Sydney;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  New  Zealand ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Now  Zealand ;   discharged   at 

Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 
Joined  at  Oaliu ;  run  at  California. 
Joined  at  Oahu ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Maui ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  in  the   United   States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in   tlie  United   States;  served  the 
cruise. 


ites;  died  at  sea, 

38 ;  run  at  Sydney 
'dney, 
the  cruise, 
he  cruise. 
Jie  cruise. 
States ;    run    at 

cs ;  run  at  Oahu. 
ates ;  run  at  Val. 

ates ;  returned  in 

ates;  served  the 

ates ;  served  the 

lates;  served  the 

es ;  run  at  Rio. 
run  at  Oahu. 
!s;  discharged  at 

ates;  served  the 

ates;  served  the 

tes ;  run  at  Val. 

I ;  run  at  Sydney, 
ites;  served  the 

;es;  returned  in 

ney. 
cruise. 
Sea-GuU. 
tlie  cruise, 
irved  the  cruise, 
discharged   at 

lifornia, 
i  cruise. 
!  cruise, 
tes;  served  the 

tes;  served  the 


LIST   OF   OFFICERS    AND   MEN 
George  Roooekb,  Private. 

John  Robinson,  Capt.  Forecastle. 


H 


IIuMPHREv  Roberts, 
Matthias  Roach, 
Morris  Russel, 
Elias  Russel, 
John  Rye, 

John  Rilev, 

Wm.  Richmond, 

John  D.  Richardson, 

Joseph  Rebo, 
James  G.  Rowe, 

Geokge  Reynolds, 

Raymond  Reed, 
Nelson  Ransom, 

George  Smith, 

William  J.  Smith, 

Thomas  Sinclair, 

James  Straham, 

John  Sac, 

David  Smith, 

James  Sheaf, 

John  W.  Smith, 

Edward  Southworth, 

Allen  Simons, 

James  Smith,  1st, 

John  Smith,  1st, 
John  Smith,  2d, 


Armourer. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
Landsman. 
Ship's  Cool?. 
Seaman. 

Private. 

Boatsn's  Mate. 

Cooper. 

2d  Class  Boy. 
Seaman. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Seaman. 
Seaman, 

Seaman. 

Quartcr-Master. 

Seaman. 

Seaman. 

Seaman. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Seaman. 

Quarter-Master. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Seaman. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 


Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  Staten;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  at  Sydney ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Rio. 
Joined  in  the  United  States ;  rim  at  Rio. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Callao. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;   served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the   United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  at  Rio ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States ;  died  at  sea, 

Aug.  22d,  1839. 
Joined  at  Oahu ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Sandwich   Islands;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the   United  States;  discharged 

at  Rio,  Nov.  28th,  1838. 
Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged  at 

Sydney,  19th  March,  18'!0. 
Joined  in   the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 

at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 

at  Oahu,  Oct.  3l8t,  1840. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged  at 

Rio,  Dec.  31st,  1833. 
Joined  in  the   United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Val. 
paraiso. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Syd. 

ney. 
Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Rio. 
.Toincd  in  the  United  States;  lost  in  the 

Sea-Gull. 


Hi 


LIST   OF   OFFICERS    AND    MEN. 


James  Smith,  2d, 
John  Shall, 

WliaLIAM  SOULE, 

Moses  J.  Smith, 
Wm.  II.  Spencer, 
Frederick  Sevmore, 
George  Staunton, 
Peter  Sweeny, 

James  Scott, 
James  Stover, 
Thomas  Simmons, 
Joseph  Silvey, 

Michael  Spinev, 
William  Smith,  2d, 
Simeon  Stearns, 

William  Smith, 
John  H,  Stevens, 
Charles  C.  Sherwood, 
Antonio  Sylvester, 
William  Steward, 

Peter  Shaw, 
William  S.',ater, 
Francis  Salsbury, 

Frank  Smith, 

Thomas  Scott, 

Benjamin  Stevens, 

Hendrick  Smith, 

Samuel  Steward, 
John  Smith, 
George  Seabold, 
Rohert  Steward, 
James  Spear, 
James  Sweeney, 
John  Smith, 

Simon  Shepherd, 

James  De  Sauls, 


Ord'y  Seaman. 

Baker. 

Landsman, 
Oid'y  Seaman. 
Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
Seaman. 

Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
1st  Class  Boy, 

Seaman. 

1st  Class  Boy. 

Orderly  Sergeant 

Seaman. 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
Seaman, 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
Capt.  Top. 

Seaman, 
Ord'y  Seaman. 
Capt,  Top. 

Officers'  Steward. 

Quarter-Master. 

Seaman. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Landsman. 

Seaman, 

Seaman, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Armourer. 

Seaman, 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Ord'y  Seaman. 

Ship's  Cook. 


Joined  in  the  United  States;  lost  in  thn 

Sea-GuU. 
Joined  at  Rio;  discharged  at  New  Zea> 

land. 
Joined  at  Rio ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Rio ;  run  at  Sydney. 
Joined  at  Rio ;  run  at  Sydney. 
Joined  at  Rio ;  run  at  Sydney. 
Joined  at  Sydney ;  run  at  Oahu. 
Joined   at  Now  Zealand;  discharged  at 

Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 
Joined  at  New  Zealand ;  run  at  Oahu. 
Joined  at  Oahu;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Hawaii ;  run  at  same  place. 
Joined  at  Maui ;  died  at  sea,  April  19th, 

1842. 
Joined  at  Oahu ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Oahu;  discharged  at  same  place. 
Joined  in   the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  at  Rio ;  drowned  at  Feejee, 
Joined  at  Tahiti ;  run  at  Sydney. 
Joined  at  Rio ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Oahu ;  run  at  same  place. 
Joined  in  the  United  States ;  died  at  sea, 

11th  March,  1839. 
Joined  at  Valparaiso ;  served  the  cruise. 
Joined  at  Oahu ;  served  tlie  cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United   States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise, 
Joired  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States ;  returned  in 

tiie  Relief, 
Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged  at 

Oahu,  Nov,  2d,  1840. 
Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Rio. 
Joined  at  Rio ;  run  at  Sydney. 
Joined  at  Rio ;  run  at  Aurora  Island. 
Joined  at  Rio;  run  at  Aurora  Island. 
Joined  at  Valparaiso;  run  at  Sydney. 
Joined  at  Sydney ;  run  at  Oaliu. 
Joined  at  Fecjce  Islands;  discharged  at 

same  place. 
Joined  in  the  United   States;  served  th« 

cruise. 
Joined  at  Callao ;  run  at  Astoria, 


LIST   OF   OFFICERS   AND    MEN. 


liii 


I  States;  lost  in  thn 

arged  at  New  Zea- 

the  cruise. 
Sydney. 
Sydney. 
Sydney. 
1  at  Oahu, 

ind ;  discharged  at 
0. 

! ;  run  at  Oahu. 
1  the  cruise, 
at  same  place, 
at  sea,  April  19th, 

1  the  cruise. 

rgcd  at  same  place. 

States;  served  the 

1  at  Feejee. 
t  Sydney, 
le  cruise, 
same  place, 
tates ;  died  at  sea, 

erved  the  cruise, 
tlie  cruise. 
States;  served  the 

?tates;  served  the 

States;  served  the 

atcs;  returned  in 

tes ;  discharged  at 

tes ;  run  at  Rio. 

■dney. 

irora  Island. 

irora  Island. 

1  at  Sydney. 

i  Oahu. 

s ;  discharged  at 

tates ;  served  th« 

fVstoria. 


Benj.  Somerndyke, 

John  Smith, 

George  Sharrock, 
RoBKRT  Spears, 


y  Samuel  Sutton, 

Joii.v  Strafford, 
George  Smith, 

Thomas  Sandpord, 

if         William  Smith, 

John  Steward, 

Samuel  Stretch, 

David  M.  Smith, 

Wm.  Schenck, 

Thomas  Scarpa, 
Henry  Sares, 
James  Stark, 

Henry  Stephens, 
Thomas  Shor, 

George  Sudor, 

Richard  Terry, 

Henry  Turner, 

James  Townsend, 

George  Treble, 

Matthew  Thompson, 

Henry  Tubor, 

John  Thompson,  1st. 

John  Thompson,  3d, 
Samuel  Taber, 


Carpenter's  Mate.    Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 
Private.  Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Carpenter's  Mate.    Joined  at  Valparaiso;  served  the  cruise. 
Capt.  Top.  Joined  in  tlie  United  States;  discharged  at 

Oaliu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 
Seaman.  Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Seaman.  Joined  at  Valparaiso ;  served  the  cruise. 

Private.  Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Quarter-Master.      Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Yeoman.  .Toinud  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Ship's  Cook.  Joined  in   the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 
Gunner's  Mate.       Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Armourer.  Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Carpenter's  Mate.   Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 
Officers'  Stewart!.    Joined  at  Rio ;  discharged  at  same  place. 
Capt.  Top.  Joined  at  Callao ;  served  the  cruise. 

Ord'y  Seaman.         Joined  at  Callao;  discharged  at  Sydney, 

Dec.  15th,  1839. 
1st  Class  Boy.  Joined  at  Sydney ;  run  at  New  Zealand. 

Seaman.  Joined   at  the  Sandwich  Islands;  served 

the  cruise. 
Quarter-Master.      Joined  in  the  United  States;  sent  home  in 

the  Relief. 
Seaman.  Joined  in  the  United  States;  lost  in  the 

Sea-Gull. 
Capt.  Forecastle.     Joined  in  the  United   States;  served  the 
cruise. 
Joined  in  the   United  States;  discharged 

at  Oahu,  Oct.  Slst,  1840. 
Joined  in   tlie   United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  sent  home  in 

tlie  Relief. 
Joined  in  tlie  Ur=lcd   States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  tlie  United  States ;  run  at  Syd. 

ncy. 
Joined  at  Sydney ;  run  at  same  place. 
Joined  at  Oahu ;  served  the  cruise. 


Seamun. 

Seaman. 

Capt.  Top. 

Seaman. 

Seaman. 

1st  Class  Boy. 
1st  Class  Boy, 


'**,. 


I  I 


h 


John  Track, 
AsuTON  Taylob, 


David  Thomas, 

AUIJAH  TllAVEKSE, 

Eeward  Townsend, 
IIeniiy  Thompson, 
HuMPHiiEY  Thomas, 
John  Thompson,  2d, 

Wm.  W.  Turner, 

Charles  Thomas, 

Edwin  Thene, 

William  Thompson, 

William  Teneycke, 

Charles  Truelabe, 

John  Undietch, 

John  Vancleck, 

Edward  Vebry, 

John  Vanderveer, 

Antonia  Vines, 
George  Wesson, 

James  Wilkinson, 

Samuel  Williams, 

Daniel  Wright, 

Edward  Widdows, 

James  C.  Walfe, 

Benjamin  Webb, 

Robert  Willis, 

Thomas  Wilson, 


LIST  OF    OFFICERS    AND   MEN. 


Scaniun. 
Private. 


Scuiuan. 
Seaman, 
Seaman. 
Seaman. 


Joined  at  Oaliu ;  discharged  same  place. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;   served  tho 
cruise. 
Officers'  Cook.        Joined  at  Fcejeo  Islands ;  served  the  cruise. 
Ord'y  Seaman.        Joined  at  Oahu ;  served  the  cruise, 
Ord'y  Seaman.        Joined  at  Oahu ;  served  the  cruise. 
Landsman  Joined  in  the  United  States  j  run  at  Callao. 

Ord'y  Seaman.        Joined  at  Upolu ;  run  at  Sydney. 
Capt.  Forecastle.     Joined  in  tlie  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 
Quarter-Gunner.     Joined  in  the  United  States;  dischargeu 
at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 
Joined  in  tiic  United  States ;  run  at  Syd- 
ney. 

Joined  in   the  United   States;   served  the 

cruise. 
JoincL'  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Joined  in  the  United  States;  sent  home 
in  tho  Relief. 
Ord'y  Seaman.         Joined  in  tho  United   States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Ord'y  Seamnn.        Joined  in  the  United  States;   served  the 

cruise. 
Seaman.  Joined  in  tlic  United   States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Ord'y  Seaman.        Joined  in  the  United   States ;   served  llio 

cruise. 
Seaman.  Joined   at  Valparaiso;  sent  home   in  llie 

Relief. 
Officers'  Steward.    Joined  at  Callao;  sent  home  in  the  Relief. 
Seaman.  Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 
Seaman,  Joined  in  the   United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Gunner's  Mate.       Joined  in  the  United   States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Cockswain.  Joined  in  the  United  States;  returned  in 

the  Relief; 
Seaman.  Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged  at 

Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 
Quarter-Gunner.      Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged  at 

Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 
Ord'y  Seaman.        Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged  at 

Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 
Seaman.  Joined  in  the  United  Stales;  discharged 

at  Rio,  Dec.  31st,  1838. 
Sailmaker's  Mate.  Joined  in  the  United   States;  served  ihu 
cruise. 


LIST    OF    O  F  F  I  (;  K  l<  S    AN  I)    M  K  X. 


Iv 


same  place. 
!s;   served  tlio 

ved  the  cruise, 
cruise. 
:ruisc. 

run  at  Callao. 
Incy. 
!s;  served  tlic 

s;  discliargcu 

;  run  at  Syd- 

3;   served  the 

1;   served  the 

;  sent  home 

1;  served  the 

;   served  the 

;  served  tlie 

;   served  llic 

home   in  the 

II  the  Relici: 
;  served  the 

;  served  the 

J  served  the 

returned  in 

iseliarged  at 

iscliarged  at 

ischarged  at 

disciiarged 

served  llm 


Horace  Wister, 
IIkmiv  Waltham, 
Mark  Widden, 
PniLir  Williams, 

XltnoLAS  WlIITESTON, 

Josiaii  Weaver, 

TlIO.MAS  WlLKINS, 

L'liAHLEs  Willis, 
Zacciieus  Wheeler, 

JOHX   WELLliR, 

Michael  Ward, 

James  Williams, 

John  A.  Weaver, 
William  White, 
Jedediah  Wilder, 
John  Williams, 

TlIO.MAS  L.  WiLLIAJIS, 

John  White,  2d, 
Sriii'iiEN  \\'ixKa, 
William  Wells, 
ui;oiiuE  Willi  A.MS, 

Ja.mks  White, 

IvK.MBAL  Whitney, 

John  Wilso.v, 

Aauon  Walmsley, 

Daniel  Whitehorn, 

Noah  Wyeth, 

Joseph  Wilson, 
Peter  Welsh, 

William  Wilson, 

IIlnrv  C.  Williams, 

Michael  Willi  vus, 


Ord'y  Seaman,  Join<'d  in  tlic  United   States;  discharged 

at  Oaliu,  March  31st,  1841. 
Ord'y  Seaman.  Joined  in  tlie  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 
Landsman,  Joined  in  tlic  United  States;  returned   in 

the  Relief. 
Ord'y  Seaman.         Joined  in  tlio  United  States;  returned  in 

tlie  Relief. 
Ord'y  Seaman.         Joined  at  Rio  ;  lost  in  the  Sea-GuU. 
1st  Class  Boy.  Joined  at  New  Zealand;  run  at  Oahu. 

Ord'y  Seaman.  Joined  at  Ouhu;  nerved  the  cruise. 

Ord'y  Seaman.         Joined  at  Oahu ;  run  at  Hawaii. 
Ord'y  Seaman.         Joined  at  Ouliu;  served  the  cruise. 
Ord'y  Seaman.         Joined  at  Cape  Town;  served  the  cruise. 
Private,  Joined   in  the  United   States;   served   the 

cruise. 
Landsman.  Joined  in  the  United  States ;  sent  home  in 

the  Relief. 
Seaman.  Joined  at  Valparaiso;  served  the  cruise. 

Ord'y  Seaman.  Joined  at  Callao ;  served  the  cruise. 

Ord'y  Seaman.         Joined  at  Callao ;  served  the  cruise. 
2d  Class  Boy.  Joined  at  Sydney ;  served  the  cruise. 

Seaman.  Joined  at  Upolu ;  served  the  cruise. 

Ord'y  Seaman.  Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  run  at  Rio. 
Ord'y  Seaman.  Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Rio. 
Yeoman.  Joined  at  Valparaiso;  served  the  cruise. 

Boatsn's  Mate.        Joined  in  the    United    States ;  served  the 

cruise. 
Capt.  Forecastle.     Joined  in  the  United   States ;  served   the 

cruise. 
Ord'y  Seaman.        Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served   the 

cruise. 
Ord'y  Seaman.        Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Call- 

fornia. 
Sergeant  Ma»ines.  Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served   the 

cruise, 
Quarter.Gunner.      Joined  in  tiio  United   States;  served   the 

cruise. 
Quarter-Mastcr.       Joined  ir.  the  United  States;  discharged  at 

Rio,  Dec.  31st,  1838, 
Ord'y  Seaman.        Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Rio. 
Seaman.  Joined- in  the  United  States;  sent  home  in 

tlie  Relief. 
Quarter.Masler.       Joined  in  the  United  States ;  sent  homo  in 

the  Relief. 
Landsman.  Joined   in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 
Soainan.  Joined  in  the   United  States;  served  tJie 

cruise. 


If :'  li 


Ivi  L18T0F0FFICERSANDMEN. 

Francis  Williams, 

Thomas  Wallace, 


1 


Jack  Williams, 
William  York, 

HtNRV  YOUNO,  Ist, 

flENRV  Young,  2d, 


Boutsn's  Mate.         Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 
Ist  Class  Boy.  Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise, 
Ord'y  Seaman.        Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 
Ord'y  Seaman.        Joined  in  the  United  States  j  sent  home  in 

the  Relief. 
Ord'y  Seaman.        Joined  at  Hawaii ;  served  the  cruise. 
Ord'y  Seaman.        Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged  at 

New  Zealand. 


ates;  served  the 

f 

1 

ates;  served  the 

1 

tates;  served  the 

■  i 

us  J  sent  home  in 

i  the  cruise. 

38;  discharged  at 

LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


VOLUME    I. 


Portrait  of  Commander  C, 
EsTRozA  Pass,  Madeira. 
Heath  Forest,  Madeira. 
Pataqonian. 

FuEOIAN. 

Lima  Gatewat, 
La  Vinda  Modntain, 
Bands,  Peru, 

CuRRAL,  Madeira. 
Porto  Praya. 
CoRcovADo,  Rio  Janeiro. 
Parhelion. 
Orange  Harbour, 

VOL.  I. 


PLATES, 

Wilkes,  U.  S.  N,    Painted  by  T.  Sully. 

Engraved  by  R.  W.  Dodson,  tttlb 

Drawn  by  J.  Drayton. 

Engraved  by  Jordan  and  Halpin,  8 

Drawn  by  J.  Drayton. 

Engraved  by  Jordan  and  Halpin,  14 

Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate, 

Engraved  by  Rawdon,  Wright  and  Hatch,  93 
Drawn  by  J.  Drayton. 

Engraved  by  Jordan  and  Halpin,  119 

Drpwn  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  A.  Halbert,  229 

Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  Rawdon,  Wright  and  Hatch,  257 
Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  Rawdon,  Wright  and  Hatch,    263 

VIGNETTES. 

Drawn  by  J.  Drayton. 

Engraved  by  W.  E.  Tucker,  12 

Sltetched  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N. 

Engraved  by  W.  H.  Ellis,  29 

Sketched  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N. 

Engraved  by  SmilJie  and  Hinchelwood,  65 
Sketched  by  J.  B.  Dale,  U.  S.  N. 

Engraved  by  W.  H.  Dougal,  109 

Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  D.  Kimberly,  120 

B  (iTii) 


<^ 


Vlll  LIST 

FUKOUNS  AND  CaNOK. 

PoRPoisR  AND  Schooner. 

CoHDILLERAS,  ClIILI. 

Market-Place,  St.  Jaoo. 

VlOA  or  THE  CoNCON. 

Amancaes,  Peru, 
Cooking  at  Casa  Cancha. 
Low  Coral  Island. 
High  Coral  Island. 
Dean's  Island. 


OK    1  L  L  U  S  '!•  RATION  8. 

Drawn   hy   J.    nr.iyion. 

EiiRravrd  by  W.  11  Dniigal, 
Skotolird  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N. 

Enjfravcd  by  Jordan  and  Ilalpin, 
Drawn  by  J.  Drayton. 

Engiuvcd  by  V.  Balch, 
Sketched  by  J.  Drnytnn. 

Engraved  by  J.  F.  E.  Prudhomme, 
Sketched  by  J.  P.  Coiithiiiy. 

Engraved  by  M.  Osborne, 
Sketched  by  J.  Drayton. 

Engraved  by  J,  N.  Gimbrcde, 
Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  E.  G.  Dunnel, 
Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  M.  Osborno, 
Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agato. 

Engraved  by  W.  H.  Tappan, 
Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  W.  H.  Tappan, 


19S 

i 

138 

1 

m 

ti 

183 

4 

i- 

189 

84A 

859 

811 

888 

''?f. 

849 

■■? 

WOOD-CUTS. 


Madeira  Sledoe. 
Peasant's  House. 
Wine-Carriers, 
Wine-Presk, 

Madeira  Boat. 
Waterino-Place, 

Coffee-Carriers. 
Muflic. 

Mi.NA,  Neoro. 
Tattooinos. 

\shantee. 
Tattooinos 

mundjola, 
Tattooinos, 

Benguelan, 

Congo  Negro. 

Kasanoi, 

Tattooing. 

Makuan. 

Takwani. 

Oaffre  Proper, 


Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.* 
Skctclicd  by  J.  Drayton.' 
Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.* 
Sketched  by  C.  WiUics,  U 

cester, 
Skctclicd  by  .T.  Drayton. 
Porto  Prava.  Skctclicd  by  J. 
U.  H  Pease, 
Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.* 
Sketched  by  J.  Drayton, 
Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate 
Sketcli'^d  by  J.  Drayton 

B.  F.  Childs, 
Sketched  Ij  A.  T.  Aga'c. 
Sketched  by  J.  Drayton 

B.  F.  Childs, 
Sketched  hy  J.  Drayton. 
Sketched  by  J.  Drayton 

B.  F.  Childs, 
Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate. 
Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate. 
Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate. 
Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate. 
Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate. 
Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate. 
Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate. 


Engraved  by  F.  E.  Worcester, 
Engraved  by  R.  S.  Gilbert, 
Engraved  by  R.  S.  G'lbcrt, 
S.  N.*     Engraved  by  F.  E.  Wor. 

Engraved  by  J.  U.  Brightly, 
B.  Dale,  U.  S.  N.f     Engraved  by 

Engraved  by  F.  E.  Worcester, 

.     Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly, 
and  A.  T.  Agate.     Engraved  by 

,     Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly, 
and  A.  T.  Agate.     Engraved  by 

Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly, 
and  A.  T.  Agate.     Engraved  by 

Engraved  by  J.  li.  Brigiitly, 
Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly, 
Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly, 
Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly, 
Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly. 
Engraved  by  J.  H.  I J  rightly, 
Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly, 


10 
ID 
20 

21 
24 

41 
53 
53 

54 

56 
56 

57 
5n 

59 
59 
60 
60 
60 
61 
62 
62 


I,  I  H  'I-    OF    I  L  L  U  8  T  R  A  T  I  ()  N  S. 


133 

138 

179 

183 

189 

945 

959 

311 

338 

349 


l^orccster, 

10 

iiburt, 

19 

'Ibcrt, 

90 

F.  F.  Wor. 

21 

'glitly, 

24 

Ingraved  by 

41 

'orcester, 

53 

53 

'rightly, 

54 

ngravcd  by 

56 

■ightly, 

56 

ngraved  by 

57 

ghtly, 

5!) 

igraved  by 

59 

"ghtly, 

59 

rightly, 

60 

rightly, 

60 

•ightly. 

60 

rightly. 

61 

:  rightly, 

62 

ightly, 

62 

'rVITOOIM.S, 

Nyambana. 

MlJUJANA. 

Slaves  t^LEEPiNO. 

Pa  LACK. 
KbT  INCU. 
CiuAUIIO. 

.MiRAue, 

MlHAGE. 

Pataoonians. 

Ft/EUIAN  PadDI.FB. 

Native  Fueuian. 
FuEGiAN  Hut. 
Music. 
Music. 
Native  Hut. 

Hkioiit  of  Waves. 

("ape  Horn, 

Kki.iki.'  at  Noir  Island. 

Music. 


Sketched  by  A.  '1".  Agiitt; 
Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate 
Sketched  Iiy  A,  T.  Agate. 
Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.* 
Sketcht'd  by  J.  Drayton. 
Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.* 
Sketclied  by  J,  Drayton.* 
Sketched  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  "°8, 
Pcaac, 


Kngraved  by  U.  F.  CliJldH, 
Kiigraved  by  .1.  H.  Hrightly, 
Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly, 
Engruv'id  by  R.  H.  Pease, 
Engraved  by  J.  J.  Butler, 
Engraved  by  K.  S.  Gilbert, 
Engraved  by  R.  S.  Gilbert, 

N.    Engraved   by  R.   II. 


Sketched  by  T.  R,  P(  ale.     Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease, 
Sketched  by  A,  T.  Agate.f     Engraved  by  .1.  H.  Brightly, 
Sketclied  by  A.  T.  Agate.     Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly, ' 
Engraved  by  R.  S.  Gilbert, 
Engraved  by  F.  E.  Worcester, 


lix 

68 

63 
63 
75 

89 

97 

102 

110 
110 
115 
116 
122 
124 
125 
127 


Sketched  liy  J.  Drayton.^ 

Sketched  by  J.  Drayton. 

Sketched  by  J.  Drayton, 

Sketched  by  J.  Drayton, 

Sketched  by  J.  A.  Underwood,  U.  S.  N.|    Engraved  by  J.  H. 

Brightly,  jgg 

Sketched  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N.     Engraved  by  B.  F.  Childs,  135 
Sketched  by  J.  B.  Dale,  U.  S.  N.     Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease,  145 

Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.f     "  "       " 

Sketched  by  J.  Drayton, 


Peasant's  House 

O.x-Cart. 

Stirrups,  Si-urs,  &,c. 

Hearse, 

Pi/.ARRo's  Autograph. 
Gateway,  Lima. 
House,  Lima. 
Plan  op  Pasco. 
Temple,  Pachacamac. 


Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease, 

Taicinq  GRA.SS  to  Market.    Sketched  by  J,  Drayton.f     Engraved  by  R,  H.  Pease 
P^.....-r'.  II„....  Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.     Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease,        ' 

Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.     Engraved  by  R,  H,  Pease', 
Sketched  by  J,  Drayton,f     Engraved  by  R.  H,  Pease, 
Sketched   by  C.   Wilkes,   I'.   S,  N,t     Engraved   by  J.  H, 

Brightly, 
Engraved  by  J.  IJ.  Manning, 

Sketclied  by  J.  Drayton,     Engraved  by  F.  E,  Worcester, 
Sketched  by  J.  Drayton,     Engraved  by  J.  H,  Brightly, 
Sketched  by  J,  Drayton,     Engraved  by  J,  H.  Brightly, 
Sketched  by  J,  A.  Underwood,  U,  S,  N,     Engraved  bv  B  F 
Childs,  ■     ■ 

Ground  Plan  op  Pachacamac      Sketched  by  J,  A,  Underwood,  U,  S,  N,     Engraved 

by  B.  F,  Childs, 
r„,nci,  AT  Bancs,  Sketched  by  A,  T,  Agate.     Engraved  by  O'Brien 

Fountain,  Lima,  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.      Engraved  by  J,  H,  BHghtly, 

Section  op  Coral  Island,     Sketched  by  C,  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N,     Engraved  by  J.  H 
Brightly, 
Sketched  by  A,  T,  Agate.     Engraved  by  O'Brien, 
Sketched  by  J,  Drayton.     Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease, 
Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.f     Engraved  by  O'Brien 
Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.f     Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly 
Sketched  by  J,  Drayton.     Engraved  by  R.  H,  Pease 
Sketched  by  J,  Drayton.     ~  ' 

Sketched  by  A.  T,  Agate 
Group,      Sketched   by   J 
Brightly, 


Canoe. 

Head  op  Native, 

Natives, 

Native  Hut. 

Tattooing. 

Double  Canoe, 

One-Handed  Chief, 

Native   of   Paumotu 


Engraved  by  J.  J,  Butler, 

Engraved  by  J,  II,  Brightly, 
Drayton,f      Engraved    by  J, 


161 
169 
173 
180 
208 
225 

240 
242 
247 
250 
267 

279 

280 
281 

304 

316 

319 
319 
332 
323 
396 
327 
329 


H. 


333 


\X  LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS. 

C'oRAi,  ni.ocKi.  Hkc  tr-hcil  l.y  A.  T.  Agali .     KtiRravcd  by  R.  IT.  Pcaio,  334 

CoHiuMK.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.     EiiRravcd  by  R.  8.  Oilbert,  339 

Trauinu  Canoj;.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agalo.     Engraved  by  J.  H.  Urightly,  345 

DiAURAM  OF  A  Bak-Linb  bt  Sound.    Drawfi  by  C.  Wilke«,  U.  8.  N.    Engraved  by 

J.  J.  Dutlor,  387 

DiAURAU  or  SuRVKY.        Drawn  by  F.  D.  Stuart.     Engraved  by  J.  IF.  Brightly,  431 


MaF    or   TIIK    WORLU, 

Paumotu  (Jroup 


MAPS. 

Engraved  by  E.  Yottgor, 
Engraved  by  Smith, 


TiTi.e. 
307 


Those  marked  with  a  »,  wore  drawn  on  tlie  wood  by  F.  O.  C,  Darlcy ;  those  marked 
wilii  a  t,  by  J.  II.  Manning;  those  marked  with  a  t,  by  W.  G.  iVrmslrong,  Those  not 
uiarkeil,  by  the  Arliatb  of  the  Expedition. 


I 


"*%, 


.  Pcaie,  334 

.  r.ilbert,  339 

.  Brightly,        345 
Engraved  by 

387 
irightly,  43] 


TiTI.B. 

307 

ley;  thoso  markud 
trong,    Those  noi 


CHAPTER    1 


CONTENTS. 

DKi'AnTUiu;  ritoM  the  unitkd  staits- vovAni:  to  MAnninA  -  ArniVAi.  at 

rUNCIlAI — Al'I'KAIIANCK  OK  AIAOEIUA  FHOM  'I'lli;  SKA -I,AM)l\(i  AT  FrxrilAL- 
VIHIT  '10  'I'Mi:  CUIl,  AM)  .Mll.I'l'AUY  OOVKIiXOKS  -  SIKEETri,  AM)  MODE  OF  THAN?! 
l'()I(TATIO\-(  lilMlNAI.S  AND  I'ltlSONS-VILLA  OF  CAKVAMIAI.-CONVEN'T-RIDEfi  l\ 
MADEIHA-^JI'KKAI.-VISIT  OF  HCIKNTIFUMJEVTI.EMEN  Ti»  SAX  V1N'CENTF.-E.\-CI;K 
SIO\  TOWAUDri  'I'll/;  EAST  END  OF  THE  ISI.AMl  -  S'l'OUV  OF  ITH  DIHCOVEUV- 
l'01'l'r,AT[01V  OF  MAI)EIItA-\VI\l!-(;OVi;il\ME\T-CIIAI!ArrER  OF  THE  IMIAIil 
TAX  rS-UUESS- DWELLINGS* -MODE  OF  TUAVELLIXlJ  -  EMPLOYMEXTS  OP  THE 
rr.(Jl>LE-  WIXEMAKINO- LOWER  'JLASSES  -  ASCEXT  OF  PICO  nUIVO  -  XATURAL 
HISTORY-atllXTA  OF  MR.  UEAX-St'HOONER  STAR  SAVED  FROM  WRECK-DEPAR 
TIIRE  FROM  MADEUIA. 


4 


'II 


"'*«*-• 


'5 


■■■u*ii»  ti. 


NARRATIVE 


OF 


THE  EXPLOKING  EXPEDITION. 


CHAPTER  I. 

MADEIRA. 

1838. 

On  the  17th  of  August  I  received  my  sailing  instructions,  and  final 
orders  to  put  to  sea  the  moment  I  was  ready.  The  signal  was 
accordingly  made  that  the  squadron  was  under  sailing  orders. 

At  3  o'clock  p.  M.,  on  Saturday,  the  18th,  the  signal  for  sailing  was 
made,  and  we  got  under  way  with  an  ebb  tide,  and  a  light  air" from 
southwest.  At  5  p.  m.  we  anchored  at  the  Horseshoe,  in  consequence 
of  its  falling  calm  and  of  the  tide  making  against  us ;  but  at  9  p.  m. 
the  wind  freshened,  wiien  we  tripped  and  stood  down  the  bay.  At 
4  A.  M.  on  the  19th,  we  passed  Cape  Henry  Light;  at  9  a.  m*.  dis- 
charged  our  pilot  and  took  our  departure. 

At  11  A.  M.  all  hands  were  called  to  muster,  and  divine  service  was 
performed.  The  day  was  beautiful,  the  sea  smooth,  the  wind  light 
and  the  squadron  around,  with  the  land  sinking  from  our  view  I 
shall  never  forget  the  impressions  tl.at  crowded  on  me  durincr  'that 
day  m  the  hours  of  service.  Jt  required  all  the  hope  I  could  muster 
to  outweigh  the  intense  feeling  of  responsibility  that  hung  over  me 
I  may  compare  it  to  that  of  one  doomed  to  destruction.  We  were 
admonished   in   the  discourse  to  repose   confidoiice  in  the  aid  and 

(3) 


4  MADEIRA. 

protection  of  Him  whom  all  hands  had  been  called  to  worship,  and 
the  admonition  was  well  calculated  to  do  us  good. 

Orders  were  now  given  to  rendezvous,  in  case  of  separation,  at 
Madeira.  It  was  soon  found,  in  the  trial  of  the  sailing  qualities  of 
the  vessels,  that  the  Relief  was  unsuited  to  act  with  the  rest  without 
great  detention,  and  after  four  days  I  determined  to  part  company 
with  her,  giving  her  orders  to  proceed  to  the  Cape  de  Verdes. 

The  novelty  of  our  situation  was  quite  enough  to  interest  all ;  free 
communications  were  had,  and  endeavours  were  made  to  excite  a 
general  interest  in  all  the  objects  that  were  passing  about  us.  It  was 
amusing  to  see  all  entering  into  the  novel  occupation  of  dissecting 
the  fish  taken,  and  to  hear  scientific  names  bandied  about  between 
Jack  and  his  shipmates. 

On  the  25th  I  began  the  trial  of  the  current  Avith  the  current-loo' : 
and  experiments  by  sinking  a  white  object  to  ascertain  the  distf^nce 
to  which  the  solar  light  penetrates  the  sea.  Our  current-log  was 
formed  of  two  i^mall  kegs  with  a  distance-line  between  them  of  five 
fathoms,  and  tfie  log-line  fastened  to  the  middle  of  it.  One  keg  is 
made  heavy  enough  to  sink  another  air-tight,  just  beneath  the  sur- 
face of  the  water,  so  that  we  get  the  current  uninfluenced  by  wind, 
and  all  the  other  circumstances  that  would  affect  the  ship  and  not  the 
surface  current.  I  adopted  for  the  other  experiments  the  usual  sea 
anchor  for  a  boat,  viz.,  an  iron  pot,  painting  the  bottom  of  it  white. 
The  depths  were  noted  when  it  was  lost  sight  of,  and  when  it  was 
again  seen,  and  the  mean  of  these  depths  was  tak-jn  for  the  result. 

From  our  position  in  latitude  36°  08'  N.,  longitude  71°  24'  W.,  and 
the  temperature  of  the  water,  we  knew  we  were  on  the  edge  of  the 
Gulf  Stream;  and  we  experienced  what  I  presume  has  been  called  the 
eddy  current.  It  was  found  setting  to  the  west  and  northwest,  but 
ought  more  properly  to  be  termed  an  indraught  to  the  Stream.  I  am 
little  disposed  to  believe  that  a  southerly  current  exists,  as  has  been 
reported,  like  the  inner  one.  We  had  a  fine  opportunity  for  examining 
the  temperature  of  the  Stream,  as  we  crossed  it  at  right  angles  to  its 
course,  and  the  thermometer  was  observed  hourly  while  making  little 
progress  through  the  water :  the  maximum  temperature  of  the  water 
was  found  to  be  83°,  and  width  of  the  Stream  about  fifty-three  miles. 
Much  information  might  be  acquired  by  a  series  of  experiments  in 
the  Gulf  Stream,  which  would  tend,  to  perfect  the  navigation  and 
shorten  the  passage  between  the  ports  on  our  coast.  It  is  to  be  hoped 
it  will  claim  the  attention  of  those  engaged  on  the  coast  survey. 

On  the  25th  of  August  our  winds  became  favourable,  and  we  were 
enabled  to  lay  our  course  towards  Madeira.     I  continued  to  keep  the 


worship,  and 

separation,  at 
g  qualities  of 
1  rest  without 
)art  company 
3rdes. 

3rest  all ;  free 
e  to  excite  a 
It  us.  It  was 
of  dissecting 
bout  between 

I  current-log; 
I  the  distf^nce 
rrent-log  was 

them  of  five 
One  keg  is 
eath  the  sur- 
ced  by  wind, 
p  and  not  the 
ilie  usual  sea 
I  of  it  white, 
when  it  was 
be  result. 
'  24'  W.,  and 
;  edge  of  the 
:en  called  the 
arthwest,  but 
ream.     I  am 

as  has  been 
3r  examining 
angles  to  its 
making  little 
of  the  water 
/•■three  miles, 
periments  in 
t'igation  and 
;  .0  be  hoped 
urvey. 
md  we  were 

to  keep  the 


M  A  I)  E  I  R  A.  g 

directio)!  of  Ihu  Gulf  Stream  towards  the  Western  Islands.  We  felt 
its  influence  until  we  reached  the  longitude  of  48°  W.,  and  found  it  to 
set  for  the  last  few  days  to  the  northward  of  cast.  The  winds  had 
been  light  and  tlie  sea  smooth,  indicating  no  other  impulse  than  the 
flow  of  tiie  Stream.  The  temperature  gradually  decreased  from  83"^ 
to  75°. 

On  the  night  of  the  20th  we  parted  company  with  the  Peacock  and 
Flying-Fish  in  a  sijuall,  and  did  not  again  meet  them  until  we  reached 
Madeira.  The  2d  September  we  spoke  a  brig  from  Salem  on  a 
whaling  voyage.  The  .'>th  of  September,  being  near  the  reported 
shoal  of  St.  Anno,  I  determined  to  pass  over  its  position. 

On  the  Gth  we  passed  over  it,  the  sea  was  smooth,  the  horizon  clear, 
and  the  day  beautiful.  At  8  a.  m.  the  look-out  cried  out  "  Rocks,  or  a 
wreck  on  the  starboard  bov-  !"  which  at  once  created  an  excitement 
on  board.  We  stood  for  it.  It  had  at  first  every  appearance  of  a 
rock,  then  that  of  a  wreck  with  the  masts  gone.  It  proved,  however, 
to  be  a  large  tree  of  cotton-wood,  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in 
length,  and  fourteen  feet  in  circumference  at  the  height  of  five  feet 
above  the  roots.  It  had  been  a  long  time  in  the  water,  was  full  of 
barnacles,  and  much  eaten  by  the  teredo  navalis.  Great  quantities  of 
fish  were  about  it,  consisting  of  dolphins,  sharks,  &c.  We  did  not, 
however,  succeed  in  taking  any.  In  rough  weather  it  might  easily 
have  been  mistaken  for  a  rock,  particularly  if  passed  in  twilfght,  or  at 
night.  There  is  little  doubt  in  my  mind  that  many  of  the  numerous 
vigias  that  appear  on  our  charts  have  as  little  foundation.  No  current 
was  experienced  hereabouts,  and  I  am  led  to  the  conclusion  that  a  sort 
of  eddy  or  still  water  is  here  found,  wherein  most  of  the  wood  carried 
by  the  Gulf  Stream  becomes  deposited  for  a  lime. 

On  the  8th,  longitude  34°  08'  W.,  latitude  37°  17'  N.,  the  current 
was  found  setting  to  the  southward  and  westward. 

In  consequence  of  the  wind  being  from  the  southward  and  westward, 
I  was  compelled,  after  making  the  Peak  of  Pico,  to  go  to  the  northward 
of  St.  Michael's.  I  am  satisfied,  however,  it  is  much  better  to  keep  to 
the  southward,  as  the  wind  will  be  found  more  steady  and  stronger 
Besides,  the  current,  at  that  season  of  the  year,  sets  to  the  westward 
among  the  islands. 

As  we  passed  St.  Michael's,  we  amused  ourselves  by  a  view,  through 
our  glasses,  of  its  villas,  groves,  and  cultivated  fields. 

On  the  night  of  the  13th  wo  laid  by,  just  after  passing  the  north  end 
of  St.  Michael's,  in  order  to  examine  the  position  of  the  Tullock  Reef 
by  daylight.     We  passed  within  a  mile  and  a  half  of  its  reported 


I 


0 


MADEIRA, 


position,  but  saw  nothing  of  it,  altliough  the  sea  was  running  suffi- 
ciently  high  to  have  made  a  hcawy  break  on  it,  if  it  did  exist. 

On  the  15th,  as  we  were  mailing  sail,  George  Porter,  one  of  our 
maintop-men,  in  loosing  the  top-gallant-  sail,  was  caught  by  the 
buntline,  and  dragged  over  the  yard,  where  he  was  seen  to  hang,  as  it 
were  quite  lifeless,  swinging  to  and  fro  l)y  the  neck. 

On  the  alarm  being  given,  two  men  ran  aloft  to  his  assistance.  It 
now  became  doubtful  on  deck  whether  they  would  aoi  be  all  dragged 
over  by  the  weight  of  his  body,  iv.til  several  others  gave  assistance 
and  relieved  them.  It  caused  a  breotliless  anxiety  to  us  all  to  see  a 
fellow-being  in  the  momentary  expectation  that  he  would  be  dashed  to 
the  deck.     He  was  fortunately  rescued  and  brought  below  yet  livin". 

TT  C)  J  O 

Here  he  speedily  came  to  his  senses,  and  recollecting  that  the  drum 
had  rolled  to  grog  just  before  his  accident,  he,  sailor-like,  asked  for  his 
portion  of  it.  It  was  truly  a  providential  escape.  This  young  man 
died  on  our  way  home,  in  the  China  Seas,  of  an  inflammatory  fever. 

On  the  16th  we  made  the  island  of  Madeira,  and  having  a  strong 
westerly  wind,  I  determined  to  pass  to  Funchal,  on  its  southern  side. 
This  may  be  done  at  this  season,  but  vessels  bound  to  that  port  usually 
prefer  going  round  the  eastern  point  of  the  island.  When  off  the 
western  point  of  Madeira  we  experienced  a  very  long  heavy  swell, 
which  gave  me  an  opportunity  of  trying  the  velocity  of  the  waves, 
by  noting  the  time  the  same  wave  was  passing  between  the  vessels. 
The  result  gave  twenty-three  miles  per  hour,  but  I  was  not  altoge- 
ther satisfied  with  it.  It  was  difficult  to  measure  the  correct  angle 
subtended  by  the  Porpoise's  masts  for  the  distance,  on  account  of  the 
motion  of  both  vessels.  The  measurement  of  the  height  of  the  waves 
I  fount!  still  more  difficult,  and  the  results  varied  too  much  to  place 
confidence  in  them,  principally  owing  to  each  succeeding  swell  or 
wave  being  less  than  the  preceding  one.  The  ditTerent  observations 
gave  from  twenty-five  to  fourteen  feet ;  the  width  of  the  wave,  from 
the  same  causes,  was  equally  variable,  and  each  successive  result 
varied  from  that  which  preceded  it. 

Before  sunset,  we  cast  anchor  in  company  with  the  Porpoise  and 
Sea-Gull,  and  were  the  next  morning  joined  by  the  Peacock  and 
Flying-Fish. 

Shortly  after  coming  to  anchor,  we  were  boarded  by  the  health 
otficer,  with  the  captain  of  the  port,  who,  on  being  assured  of  our  good 
health,  gave  us  permission  to  land.  The  United  States'  Consul,  Henry 
John  Burden,  Esq.,  also  came  on  board,  and  kindly  ofl'ercd  us  all  the 
attention  that  lay  in  his  power. 


4 


4' 


MADEIRA. 


running  suffi- 
exist. 

;er,  one  of  our 
!aught  by  the 
1  to  hang,  as  it 

assistance.  It 
bo  all  dragged 
ave  assistance 
IS  all  to  see  a 
d  be  dashed  to 
,ow  yet  living. 

that  the  drum 
',  asked  for  his 
is  young  man 
natory  fever, 
ving  a  strong 

southern  side, 
at  port  usually 
When  off  the 
;  heavy  swell, 
of  the  waves, 
en  the  vessels, 
as  not  altoge- 
correct  angle 
account  of  the 

of  the  waves 
luch  to  place 
ding  swell  or 
t  observations 
le  wave,  from 
icessive  result 

Porpoise  and 
Peacock  and 

by  the  health 
id  of  our  good 
Consul,  Henry 
'ed  us  all  the 


At  night,  there  was  a  general  illumination  of  the  churches,  and  the 
constant  ringing  of  the  bells  added  much  to  the  excitement  of  many  on 
board,  and  told  us  we  had  readied  foreign  shores. 

The  first  appearance  of  Madeira  did  not  come  up  to  the  idea  we 
had  formed  of  its  beauties  from  the  glowing  description  of  travellers. 
It  exhibited  nothing  to  the  distant  view  but  a  bare  and  broken  rock, 
of  huge  dimensions,  which,  though  grand  and  imposing,  is  peculiarly 
dark  and  gloomy,  and  it  was  not  until  we  had  made  our  way  close 
under  the  land,  that  we  could  discover  the  green  patches  which  arc 
every  where  scattered  over  its  dark  red  soil,  even  to  the  tops  of  the 
highest  peaks. 

The  mountain  verdure  was  afterwards  discovered  to  be  owing  to 
groves  of  heath  and  broom,  which  grow  to  an  extraordinary  height, 
aspiring  to  the  stature  of  forest  trees.  In  addition  to  these  groves,  the 
terraced  acclivities,  covered  with  a  luxuriant  tropical  vegetation, 
change  on  a  closer  approach  its  distant  barren  aspect  into  one  of 
extreme  beauty  and  fertility. 

The  most  striking  peculiarity  in  the  mountain  scenery,  is  the  jagged 
outline  of  the  ridge,  the  ruddy  shaped  towers  and  sharp  pyramids  of 
rock,  which  appear  elevated  on  the  tops  and  sides  of  the  highest  peaks 
as  well  as  on  the  lower  elevations,  and  the  deep  precipitous  gorges, 
which  cut  through  the  highest  mountains  almost  to  their  very  base. 

The  shores  of  the  island  are  mostly  lofty  cliffs,  occasionally  facint^ 
the  water  with  a  perpendicular  front  one  or  two  thousand  feet  in 
height.  The  cliffs  are  interrupted  by  a  few  small  bays,  where  a  richh 
cultivated  valley  approaches  the  water  between  abrupt  precipices,  or 
surrounded  by  an  amphitheatre  of  rugged  hills.  These  narrow  bays 
are  the  sites  of  the  villages  of  Madeira. 

As  we  sailed  along  from  its  western  end,  we  occasionally  saw,  in 
these  quiet  and  peaceful  situations,  small  white-walled  villages,  each 
with  its  little  church  at  the  outlet  of  the  gorges.  We  were  particularly 
struck  with  that  of  the  Camera  de  Lobos,  a  few  miles  to  the  westward 
of  Santa  Cruz  hill.  This  is  the  largest,  and  is  the  most  interesting  of 
any,  from  its  having  been  the  first  point  settled  by  Europeans.  The 
high  precipices  were  new  to  us  Americans :  so  different  from  what 
we  are  accustomed  to  in  the  United  States.  The  scene  was  still  more 
striking,  and  our  attention  was  more  forcibly  arrested,  when  passing 
under  cliffs  of  some  sixteen  hundred  feet  above  us.  We  were  so 
near  them  that  the  sound  of  the  surf  was  distinctly  heard.  The  whole 
effect  of  the  view  was  much  heightened  by  a  glowing  sunset  in  one  oi 
the  finest  climrtes  in  the  world. 

Oft'  the  eastern  cape  of  the  island,  many  isolated  rocks  were  seen 


8 


MADEIRA, 


separntpfl  from  the  IjiikI,  with  l)old,  abrupt,  sides  and  broken  outlines. 
The  character  of  fhuso  rocks  is  remarkable:  they  stand  (|iiito  detached 
from  the  adjoininsr  clifl's.  anrl  some  of  tliem  rise  to  a  great  height  in  a 
slender  form,  with  extromely  rugged  surfaces,  and  broken  edges. 
Through  soino,  the  wat'.'  -■  li;i  ve  worn  arched  ways  of  large  dimensions, 
which  afford  a  (lassage  for  the  breaking  surf,  and  would  seem  to 
threaten  ere  long  their  destruction. 

Similar  needle-form  rocks  are  seen  off  the  northern  Deserta,  an 
island  lying  some  miles  east  of  Madeira.  One  of  them  is  often 
mistaken  for  a  ship  under  sail,  to  u.'.Kh  when  first  seen  it  has  a 
considerable  resemblance.  It  stands  like  a  slender  broken  column, 
several  hundred  feet  in  height,  on  a  f)ase  scarcely  larger  than  its 
summit. 

Funchal  has  a  very  pleasing  appearance  from  the  sea,  and  its 
situation  in  a  kind  of  amphitheatre  formed  by  the  mountains,  adds  to 
its  beaut3%  The  contrast  of  the  white  buildings  and  villas  with  the 
green  mountains,  forms  a  picture  which  is  much  heightened  by  the 
bold  quadrangular  Loo  Rock  with  its  embattled  summit  commanding 
the  harbour  in  the  foreground. 

The  island  throughout  is  rough  and  mountainous,  but  the  steeps 
are  clothed  with  rich  and  luxuriant  verdure.  Terraces  are  visible 
on  every  side,  and  every  spot  that  the  ingenuity  of  man  coul.l  make 
available  has  been  apparently  turned  to  advantage,  and  is  diligently 
cultivated.  These  spots  form  an  interesting  scene,  particularly  when 
contrasted  with  the  broken  and  wild  background,  with  the  white 
cottages  clustered  at  the  sea-shore,  and  gradually  extending  themselves 
upwards  until  the  eye  rests  on  the  highest  and  most  striking  building, 
that  of  the  convent  of  Nostra  Seuora  de  Monte. 

Through  the  western  half  of  the  island  runs  a  central  ridge, 
about  five  thousand  feet  high,  on  which  is  an  extensive  plain,  called 
Paul  de  Scrra,  which  is  mostly  overgrown,  and  is  used  especially 
for  breeding  nmles  and  horses.  The  eastern  portion  of  the  island, 
though  quite  elevated,  is  less  so  than  the  western. 

The  valleys  usually  contain  a  strip  of  land  of  extreme  fertility, 
through  which  winds  the  bed  of  a  streamlet,  that  becomes  a  mountain 
torrent  in  the  rainy  seasons,  but  is  nearly  or  quite  dry  in  summer. 

The  landing  at  Funchal  is  on  a  stony  beach,  and  is  accompanied 
with  some  little  diihculty,  partly  on  account  of  the  surf,  but  more 
from  the  noise,  confusion,  and  uproar  made  by  the  native  boatmen 
in  their  efforts  to  drag  their  boat  up  on  the  beach.  This  operation 
they  however  understand,  and  are  well  accustomed  to,  and  those  who 
desire  to  land  dry,  will  be  wise  to  em|iloy  them. 


'S 


MADEIRA. 


rokeii  outlines. 
c|iiitc  fletaolied 
oat  liiii^rlit  in  a 
brojvoii  edges, 
fjo  (limensions, 
^ould  seem   to 

n  Deserta,  an 
them  is  often 
seen  it  has  a 
•ol<en  column, 
irgor  than  its 

sea,  and  its 
itains,  adds  to 
illas  with  tlie 
;htened  by  the 
t  commanding 

but  the  steeps 
es  are  visible 
1  could  make 
1  is  diligently 
icularly  when 
ith  the  white 
ng  themselves 
king  building, 

central  ridge, 
!  plain,  called 
sed  especially 
)f  the  island, 

eme  fertility, 
:s  a  mountain 
summer, 
accompanied 
irf,  but  more 
live  boatmen 
his  operation 
ad  those  who 


0 


On  the  17th,  we  paid  our  respects,  with  a  large  party  of  ollicers,  to 
the  civil  governor  the  Baron  do  Lordollo,  field-marshal  in  the  army, 
and  administrator-general  of  the  Province  of  Madeira  and  Porto 
Santo;  and  also  to  the  military  governor  .Tose  Toixcera  Rebello, 
coKmol  in  the  army,  and  commandant  of  the  district. 

The  civil  and  military  governments  were  formerly  united  in  the 
same  person,  Imt  since  the  restoration  after  the  reign  of  Don  Miguel, 
they  have  been  divided.  The  military  governor  is  now  obliged  to 
consult,  and  is  under  the  control  of  the  civil  governor.  I  was 
informed  that  on  the  appointment  of  the  military  governor  this  was 
expressly  intimated  to  him,  and  that  the  arrangement  was  made  in 
order  to  avoid  placing  too  much  power  in  the  hands  of  anv  one 
man. 

His  Excellency  Baron  Lordello  resides  in  the  government  house  or 
palace,  which  is  a  large  quadrangular  building,  occupied  in  part  as 
barracks.  IIis  suite  of  apartments  fi^  .nts  the  bay,  and  enjoys  a 
beautiful  view  of  it;  they  also  have  the  enjoyment  of  the  inbat  or 
sea-breeze.  They  are  very  large,  and  but  meagerly  furnished. 
Around  the  large  anteroom  are  hung  the  portraits  of  all  the  civil 
ecclesiastical,  and  military  governors,  which  form  an  imposincr  arrax' 
of  hard  outline,  stiff  figures  and  faces,  with  a  variety  of  amnsin^ 
costume.  Those  of  later  years  which  have  been  hung  up,  are  not 
calculated  to  give  very  exalted  ideas  of  the  standing  of  the  present 
1  ortuguese  school  of  portrait  painting. 

His  Excellency  the  Baron  Lorddlo  received  us  very  courteously 
Uur  audience,  however,  was  extremely  formal:  the  whole  furnih.re 
and  appearance  of  the  room  served  to  make  it  so.  We  all  found 
It  dilhcult  to  school  ourselves  to  ceremonies,  having  been  ushered  as 
we  were  through  dilapidated  and  impoverished  courts  and  vestibules, 
ifis  Excellency  the  Baron  speaks  English  remarkably  well,  which  I 
understood  he  had  acquired  while  acting  as  interpreter  to  the  British 
s  atr.n  Portugal,  during  the  Peninsular  War.  He  had  been  no  more 
iuui  a  week  m  charge  of  the  government.  I.  ,ving  just  arrived  from 
loimgal.     After  a  tew  monosyllabic  questions  and  answers  we  took 

Z  T''/"f  ''  ?  "•'  ''""""'  '"  '''  "^  '^''^Sh  the  anteroom  to 

the  hall  of  entrance,  where  we  parted  with  many  bows 

Our  next  visit  was  to  the  military  governor,  Senor  Rebello,  who 

occupied   a   sniall   apartment   at   the  opposite  end  of  the   building. 

lh,s  was  not  large  enough  to  accommodate  us  all,  and  chairs  were 

wanting  for  many.     The  manner  and  ease  of  the  occupant  made 

fnll  amends.     Ceremony  and  form  were  laid  aside;  he  seemed  to 

VOL.  I.  2 


10 


MADEIRA. 


enter  warmly  into  our  pluns  and  pleuMurus,  and  evinced  a  great  desire 
to  do  us  service. 

Colonel  Uebello  was  one  of  the  proscribed  during  the  reign  of 
terror  of  Don  Miguel,  and  was  concealed  for  four  years,  all  of  which 
time  our  consular  flag  allbrded  liirn  protection.  During  this  whole 
period  he  did  not  leave  the  apartment  he  occupied,  or  even  approach 
the  window. 

The  streets  of  the  town  are  very  narrow,  without  sidewalks,  and 
to  our  view  like  alleys,  but  their  narrowness  produces  no  inconve- 
nience. They  are  well  paved,  and  wlieel-carringes  are  unknown. 
The  only  vehicle,  if  so  it  may  bo  called,  is  a  sledge,  of  some  six 
feet  in  length,  about  twenty  inches  wide,  and  only  six  or  eight  inches 
high,  on  which  are  transjjorted  the  pipes  of  wine.  Two  strips  of  hard 
wood  arc  fastened  together  for  runners. 


This  sledge  is  dragged  by  two  very  small  oxen,  and  slips  easily 
on  the  pavement,  which  is  occasionally  wet  with  a  cloth.  It  is  no 
doubt  the  best  mode  of  transportation  in  Funchal,  for  their  wino,  on 
account  of  the  groat  steepness  of  their  streets.  Smaller  burthens  are 
transported  on  men's  shoulders,  or  in  hampers  and  baskets  on  the 
backs  of  donkeys. 

The  middle  gutters  are  now  for  the  most  part  closed,  and  made 
subterranean,  no  longer  the  stranger's  nuisance.  Funchal  may 
compare  with  most  places  for  the  cleanliness  of  its  streets,  Little 
improvement  has  as  yet  taken  place  in  the  cleanliness  and  discipline 
of  its  prisons. 

I  was  surprised  to  learn  that  all  misdemeanours  arc  referred  for 
trial  to  Portugal,  and  that  persons  having  committed  small  crimes  are 
kept  for  years  without  any  disposition  being  made  of  them  by  those 
in  authority.  They  are  maintained  at  the  expense  of  the  complainant, 
consequently  crime  is  scarcely  noticed  or  complained  of.  On  the 
one  hand  it  makes  the  punishment  very  severe,  and  on  the  other, 
persons  are  inclined  to  lake  the  law  into  their  own  hands  against 
petty  thefts.  It  is  impossible  to  avoid  mnny  painful  sights  in  passintr 
the  prisons.  Caps  on  sticks  are  thrust  through  the  iron  gratings,  and 
requests  are  made  for  alms,  first  in  beseeching  tunes,  and  afterwards. 


3 

f 


i 

2 


■.$ 


4 


1  a  great  dosiro 

;  the  reign  of 
rs,  all  of  which 
ing  this  whole 
even  a[)i)roach 

sidewalks,  and 
es  no  inconve- 

are  unknown. 
i,  of  some  six 
3r  eight  inches 
i  strips  of  hard 


s 


^ 


id  slips  easily 
loth.  It  is  no 
their  wino,  on 
sr  burthens  are 
laskets  on  the 

ed,  and  made 
Punchal  may 
streets.  Little 
and  discipline 

3  referred  for 
all  crimes  are 
hem  by  those 
!  comjilainanr, 
I  of.  On  the 
on  the  otlicr. 
Kinds  against 
Its  in  passing 
gratings,  and 
id  afterwards. 


i 


V4 


1* 


MADEIRA. 


11 


if  nothing  is  given,  one  is  pained  with  hearing  cries  of  execration. 
The  occupants  are  in  keeping  with  the  premises,  and  did  not  fail  to 
excite  both  our  commiseration  and  disgust. 

Ainong  the  lions  of  Madeira  is  a  villa  once  belonging  to  ScHor 
Jose  do  Carvalhnl,  a  wealthy  nobleman  who  died  abf)ut  a  year  before 
our  visit.  The  gardens  are  well  taken  care  of,  and  contain  many 
trees  and  plants  from  various  (|uarters  of  the  globe.  The  grounds 
embrace  extensive  deer  parks,  but  I  was  not  much  struck  with  the 
manner  in  which  they  were  laid  out.  The  present  proprietor  is  the; 
ne|ihew  of  the  late  Count. 

The  convent  is  also  a  place  to  which  strangers  resort,  and  the 
fair  nuns  of  twenty  years'  standing,  I  will  not  dwell  on,  lest  truth 
might  compel  me  to  destroy  some  of  the  reputation  of  those  charms 
which  fonrier  visiters  have  done  honour  to.  Feather-flowers  continue 
to  be  sold  here,  and  the  nuns  to  jest  with,  and  receive  the  homage  of 
their  guests.  Since  the  overthrow  of  Don  Miguel  in  1824,  monasrcries 
have  been  abolished  and  liberty  giveti  to  the  nuns  to  return  to  the 
world,  of  which  privilege  some  of  them  availed  themselves.  Thoy 
do  not  now  exceed  eighty  in  number,  and  as  none  have  since  been 
allowed  to  take  the  veil,  they  will  soon  decrease. 

The  rides  in  Madeira  are  beautiful.  The  roads  are  well  made, 
easily  and  safely  travelled  on  a  Madeira  f)ony,  with  a  pony-boy  or 
burroquerro.  One  is  at  a  loss  to  which  to  impute  the  most  strength 
of  mind  and  endurance,  the  pony  or  the  boy.  These  boys  keep 
constantly  near  the  rider,  at  times  holding  on  to  the  tail  of  the  pony, 
then  bestowing  repeated  blows  with  their  long  sticks,  and  ever  and 
anon  urging  him  on  with  th3ir  singular  tones  of  voice,  so  that  the  rider 
is  compelled  to  allow  himself  to  be  carried  along,  contented  with 
passing  safely  over  so  novel  and  (to  him)  apparently  so  impassable  a 
roadway. 

On  proceeding  out  of  Funchal,  fruits,  flowers,  and  vegetables 
seem  crowding  upon  the  sight;  in  the  lower  portions,  groves  of  oranrre 
and  lemon  trees  are  mingled  with  (he  vineyards,  the  trees  are  loaded 
with  fruit;  then,  as  one  mounts  higher,  bananas,  figs,  pomegranates, 
&c.,  are  seen,  and  again,  still  higher,  the  fruits  of  the  tropics  are 
mterspersed  with  those  of  the  temperate  zone,  viz.,  apples,  currants, 
pears,  and  peaches,  while  the  ground  is  covered  with  melons' 
tomatoes,  egg-plant,  &c.  Farther  beyond,  the  highest  point  of  culti- 
vation IS  reached,  where  the  potato  alone  flourishes.  Then  the 
whole  lower  portion  is  spread  before  the  eye.  Vineyards,  occupying 
every  spot  that  is  susceptible  of  improvement,  and  one  rides  through 
paths   hedged   in   with   geraniums,  roses,  myrtles,  and  hydrangeas 


,.*#« 


12 


MADEIRA. 


Thcso  plants,  which  wo  h.-ul  boon  accustomed  to  consider  as  the 
inhabitants  of  oiu  parlom-s  and  grecn-houses,  are  here  met  with  in 
gigantic  forms,  and  as  dillbrent  from  our  small,  sickly  speciinons  as 
can  well  be  nnaginod.  For  those  unacquainted  with  the  luxuriance 
of  the  tropical  vegetation,  it  would  be  dilhcult  to  conceive  an  idea 
of  this  lavourcl  spot.  Many,  of  tlie  terraces  on  which  the  vinos 
are  grown  are  cut  on  the  sides  of  the  liilLs,  and  the  ^isitor  cannot 
but  admire  the  hibour  expended  on  the  stone  walls  that  support  them, 
llio  road  at  times  loads  through  small  villages,  the  houses  of  which 
are  built  of  blocks  of  lava,  without  ])lastor,  about  six  foot  hi-di 
with  a  thatched  roof  of  broom  brought  up  to  a  polo  in  the  centre 'for 
Its  sui)port,  and  of  a  moderate  pitch. 

Every  one  who  visits  Madeira  should  see  tlie  Curral.  It  is  a 
very  remarkable  spot,  and  it  is  dillicult,  if  not  impossible,  to  cmvc 
an  idea  of  its  beauty  and  grandeur.  This  place  is  approachocr  by 
the  usual  ascent  from  Funchal,  through  the  narrow  roa.'s,  or  paths 


1 


MADEIRA. 


onsider  as  the 

re  met  with  in 

Y  speciinoDs  as 

the  luxuriance 

ticeive  an  idea 

hich  the  vines 

\isiter  cannot 

support  them. 

juses  of  which 

six   feet   iiigh, 

the  centre  lor 

irral.     It  is  a 

ssiblo,  to  give 
ijjproached  by 
)a<'s,  or  paths 


13 


^><f 


hedged    with    roses,   &c.,   the    view    gradually   extending    beneath, 
over  the  terraced  vineyards.    Just  before  reaching  it  you  mount  a 
small  ascent;  you   are  then  on  the   summit  or  edge  of  the  Curral. 
and  the  whole  scene  suddenly  bursts  upon  you.     The  eye  descends 
fo  the  depth  of  two  thousand  feet,  into  the  immense  chasm  below, 
and  wandors  over  the  ragged  and  broken  outline  of  the  many  peaks 
(hat  rise   from  its  very  bottom;   then  upwards,  following  the   gray 
precipitous  rocks,  till  their  summits  are  lost  in  the  clouds,  which 
are  passing  fitfully  across  it,  occasionally  permitting  the  sunbeams  to 
glance  to  its  very  bottom.     One  feels  surprised,  in  gazing  on   this 
scene,  that  its  character  of  wildness  should  become  softened,  and  its 
beauty  increased,  which  is  effected  in  part  by  the  plants  and  shrubs 
which  cling  or  have  fastened  themselves  into  the  fissures  of  the  rocks. 
These  the   eye  gradually  makes   out,  and  is  led  by  the  small  and 
narrow  strips  of  green  on  the  ledges  downwards,  until  it  finally  resJs 
on  the  secluded  church  of  Nostra  Scnora  de  Livre  IMonte,  and  the 
peasants'  cabins  embedded  in  the  dark  and  luxuriant  foliage  beneath, 
whose  peace   and   quietness  are  in  such   strong   contrast  with   the 
wildness  of  nature  above.     The  ^vhole  looks  more  like  enchantment 
than  reality.     The  shape  of  the  ('(u-ral   and  its  perpendicular  sides 
give  the  idea  rather  of  a  gorge  than  of  a  crater. 

In  the  descent  the  road  winds  along  the  sides  of  the  precipice, 
turning  around  sharp  and  jutting  projections,  with  a  frightful  gulf 
yawning  below.  A  misstep  of  the  horse  would  plunge  the  ride?  to 
destruction.  At  every  turn  new  and  striking  viewer  are  brought  out 
almost  surpassing  in  grandeur  the  first.  The  descent  is  so  gradual.' 
that  one  scarcely  seems  to  advance  downwards,  and  the  len.rfh  of 
time  necessary  to  accomplish  it  (upwards  of  an  hour)  will  givc^  some 
idea  of  the  vastness  and  grandeur  of  the  scene.  Continuin.-  r.n  th.- 
gorge  opens  to  the  south,  where  the  streamlet  of  the  Curral  joined 
by  several  lateral  branches,  forms  the  river  Socorridos,  which  empties 
Itself  into  the  sea  at  the  ancient  town  of  Camera  de  Lobos. 

A  party,  consisting  of  Messrs.  Drayton,  Pickering,  Couthouv,  and 
Brackcnridge,  visited  San  Vincente,  on  the  north  side  of  the  'island 
They  describe  the  road  to  it  as  passing  over  projt.cting  lodcres,  of 
which  those  unacquainted  with  a  volcanic  country  can  form  but  little 
Idea.  The  first  night  the  party  stopped  at  Santa  Anna,  where  they 
were  hospitably  entertained  by  Senor  A.  Accraiolis,  who  allorded 
them  every  comfort  in  his  y,ower.  They  were  exceedingly  uell 
accommodated.  The  next  mornMig  they  set  out  on  their  way  to  Pico 
Kuivo.  On  their  road  they  encountered  the  forest  of  ai-boresc-ent 
Heaths,  some  ofwhich  were  found  thirty  feet  in  height  and  four  feet 


B 


14 


MADEIRA. 


Ul 


in  girth  at  a  height  of  two  feet  from  the  ground.  These  have  by 
formei  travellers  been  reported  as  pines.  Mr.  Drayton's  illustrative 
drawing  of  these  remarkable  trees  is  very  characteristic. 

After  a  fatiguing  day's  ramble,  in  which  they  collected  many 
specimens,  thi;  returned  to  Santa  Anna,  quite  wet,  it  having  rained 
most  of  the  day  on  the  mountain.  The  next  day  they  set  out  for  San 
Vincente,  their  kind  host  furnishing  them  with  a  letter  to  Padre 
Jacinto  Neri.  Passing  along  the  north  side,  over  some  of  the  most 
mountainous  and  broken  parts  of  the  island,  though  at  the  same  time 
extremely  beautiful,  and  in  places  well  cultivated,  they  reached  the 
pass  at  Estroza.  This  is  parricularly  striking,  winding  around  the 
precipitous  cliff,  almost  overhanging  the  sea,  several  hundred  feet 
below,  and  with  its  pinnacles  reaching  the  clouds.  The  path  around 
this  bluO;  which  is  only  wide  enough  for  one  at  a  time,  is  a  good 
specimen  of  the  roads  around  the  island.  It  has  been  worked  with 
great  labour,  and  made  quite  easy  to  travel  by  its  zigzag  direction. 
The  feeling  of  insecurity  to  those  who  are  unaccustomed  to  these 
mural  precipices,  with  the  extended  ocean  lying  far  beneath,  serves 
to  give  additional  interest  to  the  scene. 

To  the  plate  of  this  pass,  facing  page  1,  the  reader  is  referred  for  a 
correct  representation  of  the  same. 

They  passed  tlirough  several  villages,  all  prettily  situated,  among 
which  was  Porto  Delgada,  and  about  sunset  arrived  at  San  Vincente. 
At  Porto  Delgada,  their  guides  would  not  allow  them  to  stop,  as  it 
was  necessary  to  descend  and  pass  along  the  rocky  shore  before  the 
tide  came  in.  They  succeeded  in  passing  safely,  but  were  kept  on 
the  (}id  vive  by  the  numerous  stories  detailed  by  their  guides  of  the 
accidents  that  had  occurred  there.  The  road  to  this  part  of  the 
island  is  'ittle  frequented  by  strangers,  of  whom  only  three  are  said 
to  have  visited  San  Vincente  during  four  months. 

On  their  arrival  they  found  Padre  .lacinto  engaged  at  prayers. 
After  his  duties  were  finished  he  received  them  kindly,  and  accommo- 
dated them  for  the  night.  San  Vincente  is  but  a  small  village  of 
iiflecn  houses,  a  chapel,  and  a  distillery,  in  which,  during  the  season, 
lliey  make  between  four  and  five  hundred  gallons  of  brandy  a  day. 
As  Padre  Jacinto  could  not  speak  a  word  of  English,  they  had  but 
little  conversation  with  him.  However,  a  little  Spanish  on  both  sides, 
with  gesticulatiois,  enabled  them  to  pass  the  usual  compHmcnts,  and 
to  obtain  the  requisite  directions  for  proceeding  back  to  Funchal 
on  the  next  day.  They  were  kindly  and  hospitably  entertained  by 
the  Padre,  and  left  him  with  many  thanks  for  his  kindness.  Taking 
the  road  or  rather  path  across  to  the  Curral,  they  passed  over  a  mos°t 


These  have  by 

on's  illustrative 

c. 

collected   many 

t  having  rained 

set  out  for  San 
Btter  to  Padre 
ne  of  the  most 
t  the  same  time 
jy  reached  the 
ng  around  the 
,1  hundred  feet 
le  path  around 
time,  is  a  good 
n  worked  with 
gzag  direction, 
omed  to  these 
beneath,  serves 


3  referred  for  a 


ituated,  among 
San  Vincente. 

to  stop,  as  it 
bore  before  the 

were  kept  on 
'  guides  of  the 
s  part  of  the 

three  are  said 

d  at  prayers, 
md  accommo- 
lal!  village  of 
ng  the  season, 
brandy  a  day. 
,  they  had  but 
on  both  sides, 
iplimcnts,  and 
k  to  Funchal 
entertained  by 
less.  Taking 
over  a  most 


ii"-  f 


|^^;^,»i'^e?><j" 


avmg  1 


r 


^"^f,,,. 


MADEIRA. 


15 


beautiful  country,  meeting  with  the  gigantic  virgin  forests  of  Laurels, 
sixty  feet  high  and  four  feet  in  diameter,  and  occasionally  woods  of 
arborescent  Heaths,  of  equally  surprising  size  with  those  they  had 
seen  the  day  before,  in  their  journey  across  the  island,  farther  to  the 
eastward. 

No  traces  of  distinct  craters  were  found  on  any  part  of  the  is.  nd 
they  visited ;  the  rocks  were  composed  of  volcanic  breccia,  and  the 
surface  of  these  was  much  decomposed. 

The  mountain-paths  by  which  i.hey  crossed,  are  almost  inaccessible 
in  some  places.  The  Madeira  ponies  wore  obliged  to  leap  from  rock 
to  rock,  frequently  at  an  angle  of  46°  with  the  horizon.  The  lover  of 
the  picturesque  will  be  amply  gratified  by  pursuing  the  same  route. 

Another  party,  consisting  of  Messrs.  Hale,  Eld,  Dana,  and  Holmes, 
went  towards  the  east  end  of  the  island,  as  far  as  Canical,  beyond' 
Machico,  to  examine  a  bed  of  fossils,  said  to  exist  there.    This  proved 
to  be  a  bed  or  deposit  of  coral,  which  will  be  spoken  of  in  the 
Geological  Report. 

Passing  through  Machico,  they  saw  and  visited  the  small  church  or 
chapel,  said  to  have  been  erected  over  the  graves  of  the  lovers,  Anna 
d'Arfet  and  Robert  Machim,  the  story  of  whose  love  and  sufferings 
has  long  since  been  placed  among  the  fabulous,  though  still  credited  in 
Madeira. 

As  their  adventures  are  supposed  to  have  led  to  the  discovery  of  this 
island,  it  may  be  as  well  to  give  the  history  of  them  a  place  here,  as 
recorded  by  Alcoforado. 

It  is  as  follows : 

« In  the  reign  of  Edward  the  Third  of  England,  Robert  Machim,  an 
English  gentleman,  became  the  lover  of  the  beautiful  Anna  d'Arfet. 
It  was  long  before  their   mutual  attachment  wa.-  known.     When  it 
became  so,  Machim's  imprisonment  was  procured  by  the  influence  of 
her  family,  for  his  presuming  to  aspire  to  the  hand  of  one  so  much 
above  his  rank.     During   his   confinement,  Anna  d'Arfet  had   been 
forced  into  a  marriage  v  ;*h  a  nobleman,  who  confined  her  in  his 
castle  near  Bristol.     By  the  assistance  of  a  friend.  Machim  escaped 
and  mduced  her  to  elope  with  him,  to  seek  an  asylum  in  France' 
They  sailed  during  a  storm,  which  prevented  them  from  raining  their 
intended  port,  and  after  many  days  of  anxiety   and  suffering"  they 
found  themselves  in  sight  of  land  clothed  with  the  richest  vegetation 
and   wild   flowers   in   the   greatest  profusion.     They  determined   to' 
disembark,  and  experienced  a  climate  of  surpassing  beauty,  with  birds 
of  the  gayest  plumage.     Whilst  wandering  a  few  days  about  in  this 
paradise,  there  came  on  a  violent  storm,  which  drove  the  vessel  from 


16 


MADEIRA. 


m 


the  island.  This  was  too  great  a  shock  for  poor  Anna,  and  she  diea 
soon  alter  of  a  broken  heart.  Robert  did  not  long  survive  her,  and 
died,  uttering  as  a  last  request  that  he  nnight  be  laid  in  the  same  grave 
with  his  mistress,  in  a  chapel  which  they  had  erected  in  commemoration 
of  their  deliverance  from  shipwreck.  From  the  survivors,  Alcoforado 
is  said  to  have  derived  the  story,  they  having  left  the  island,  (after 
many  adventures,)  returned  to  their  native  country,  and  gave  accounts 
of  the  discovery  of  Madeira." 

The  country  along  this  route  is  much  diversified  in  surface,  and 
extremely  beautiful.  The  road  is  quite  good  and  much  wider,  enabling 
two  to  ride  abreast. 

^  This  party  complained  much  of  the  inhosi)it&lity  of  the  inhabitants. 
They  could  not  get  any  accommoda*  whatever  at  Santa  Cruz, 
although  it  contains  three  thousand  inl..  *  is.  They  were  told  « that 
Santa  Cruz  was  a  very  poor  place,"  and  mat  it  would  be  better  to  ride 
on  to  Funchal.  One  of  the  inhabitants,  of  respectable  appearance, 
■old  them  there  was  an  empty  house  which  they  could  occupy,  with 
permission  of  the  owner.  His  ofler  was  courteously  declined,  and  the 
party  rode  back  through  a  dark  night  to  Funchal. 

The  islands  of  Madeira  and  Porto  Santo,  under  the  new  constitution, 
promulgated  in  1836,  were  included  in  one  district,  called  "  Districto- 
administrativo  do  Funchal."  It  contains  ten  councils,  in  which  are 
forty.five  parishes.  The  population,  according  to  the  census  taken  in 
1P36,  is  taken  from  the  Cronica. 








1 

P.\HISHES. 

9 

FAMILIES. 

SOULS. 

28,653 

MALES, 

FEMALES. 

Funchal   .... 

5,975 

13,444 

15,204 

Santa  Cruz  .    .    . 

4 

j       1,450 

7,287 

3,611 

3,676 

Machico  .... 

4 

1,030 

5,207 

2,655 

2,552 

Santa  Anna  .     .    . 

5 

3,972 

14,799 

7,572 

7,227 

San  Vincente    .     . 

2 

1,972 

8,848 

4,425 

4,433 

Porto  Moniz      .    . 

1 

4 

1,559 

7,333 

3,606 

3,727 

,     Calheta     .... 

6 

2,731 

13,133 

6,34] 

6,792 

Porto  do  Sol .     .    . 

6 

3,288 

16,111 

7,852 

8,259 

Camara  do  Lobos  . 

4 

2,323 

12,458 

6,119 

6,339 

Porto  Santo  .    ,    . 

1 

45 

374 

24,674 

1,618 
115,447     1 

883 
56,508 

758 

58,957 

The  English  population  amounted  in  183(5  \o  108  femilies,  numbering 
324  souls.  ^ 


id  she  diea 
re  lier,  and 
same  grave 
nemoration 
Alcoforadu 
land,  (after 
re  accounts 

arface,  and 
jr,  enabling 

inhabitants, 
lanta  Cruz, 
told  « that 
Iter  to  ride 
ppearance, 
cupy,  with 
3d,  and  the 

onstitufion, 
'  Districto- 
which  are 
as  taken  in 


FEMALES. 


58,957 


lumbering 


MADEIRA. 


PROGRESS  OF  POPULATION  IN  1835. 

T.Piritimatc  births,  male jgo? 

Illegitimate     "        "        ogg 

Legilimato  births,  female jggg 

Illegitimate     "          "       .     .     .     .    , 005 

Deaths,  male jggo 

"       ''«">'»•« 1368 


17 


2029 


2073 


4102 


Marriages 


1065 


Excess  of  births 


2751 


1351 


The  revenue  of  the  island  is  stated  to  be  about  $210,000  per  annmn 
Ihat  portion  Avhich  is  derived  from  the  customs,  is  about  one  half,  or 
•SI  10,000.  The  remainder  is  from  taxes  and  tithes.  The  latter  are  now 
collected  by  the  government,  and  from  it  the  priesthood  receive  salaries 
The  mhab.tants  are  liable  to  pay  tax  for  the  maintenance  of  the  small 
naval  force  kept  on  the  station.  The  expenses  of  the  government  of  Ma- 
deira, mcluding  the  support  of  the  military  garrison,  is  about  $150,000. 
leaving  a  surplus  to  the  government  of  about  f$50,000  or  860,000. 

There  are  about  five  thousand  proprietors  of  the  soil,  of  whom  no 
more  than  six  hundred  and  fifty  live  on  their  rents;  and  there  ore 
about  four  hundred  who  receive  government  salaries. 

Mendicants  are  numerous,  and  one  is  much  tormented  with  them 
from  the  very  moment  of  landing.  It  is  surprising  to  find  them  so 
importunate  in  so  fine  an  island,  and  where  the  necessaries  of  life 
ought  to  abound. 

Wine  is  the  staple  commodity:  the  produce  during  the  year  1837 
was  14,l.'-,0  pipe=.    The  e^rt  the  year  previous  to  our  visit  amounted 
to  8  43.5  pipes,  of  w  Inch  about  3,800  pai^s,  valued  at  $793,000,  went  to 
the  United  States.     The  imports  only  amounted  to  8105,000,  in  staves 
rice    and  oil      The   5,700  pipes  that  remain,  includes  that  shipped 
to  i^nropc,  the  home  consumptjoo,  and  what  h  stored   for  refii.in- 
Ihe  inhabitants  of  Madeira  are  much  alive  p.nd  ju.«tly  jealou"  of  the 
reputation  of  their  Wines,  which  are  generallv  ihe  engrossincr  topf-  of 
conversation.     An  amusing  excitement  existed  durincr  our°vi«it      \ 
London  paper  (the  Times)  had  asserted  that  foreign  wine  h..d  frequentlv 
heen  introduced  into  Madeira,  and  after-  nrds  exported  a.  tbe  o-enui,« 
article,  to  the  United  States  in  particular:  and  what  crare  more  f,.roe 
to  the  story,  it  was  stated  as  a  fact,  that  seventv  pipes  htid  lately  been 
VOL.1.  BS  8  ■ 


18 


M  A  D  E  I  R  A. 


n  ! 


entered,  at  the  expense  r.f  HIOOO,  unci  rcmanulacturod.  Every  body 
was  up  in  arms.  The  commercial  assnciuJion  of  Fuiiclial  passed 
resolutions  denouncing  the  publication  in  sln^ng  terms,  as  desi-med  by 
certain  nUerested  persons  to  injure  the  reputation  of  the  wino  cf 
Madeira.  So  strict  are  the  laws  to  prevent  frauds,  ilmt  oven  genuine 
Madeira,  alter  being  once  shipped,  cannot  be  retin-ne.l  to  the  island. 
I  lieiu-d,  however,  of  an  attempt,  and  but  one,  to  smuggle  in  Teuerillb 
and  b  ayal  wines,  which  was  discovered.  The  casks  were  broken,  th.. 
wnie  destroyed,  the  boats  confisca(.;.l,  and  the  smuggler  condemned  t,. 
be  transported  to  the  coast  of  Africa. 

We  were  informed  that  the  industry  of  the  inhabitants  had  much 
increased  within  a  few  years,  and  since  the  new  order  of  things:  this 
IS  shown  in  the  increased  quantity  of  grain  which  is  raised,  viz.^ wheat, 
barley,  rye,  and  Indian  corn.  Sugar  and  coflee  are  also  raised,  and  of 
siq^erior  quality.  All  kinds  of  vegetables  and  fruits  are  in  abundance, 
all  of  very  fine  kinds,  and  not  only  sufficient  for  their  own  wants,  bu< 
to  supply  the  shipjjing  that  touch  there. 

There  are  some  things  relative  to  the  organization  of  the  present 
government,  that  seem  to  forebode  any  tl.iug  but  harmony  in  its 
operations.  It  is  too  complicated  for  an  ign.n-ant  community,  that 
cannot  value  the  elective  franchise.  The  system  is  somewhat  a 
caricature  of  our  own,  in  the  lre(|uency  of  elctions,  and  the  numerous 
small  magistrates  who  have  f.n-  the  most  part  little  or  no  emolument. 
1  was  told  that  instances  had  occurred  of  their  refusing  to  educate 
their  children,  in  order  that  they  might  escape  being  elected  to  an 
olTice,  which  would  bring  them  nothing  but  toil  and  vexation.  As  they 
become  more  enlightened  this  prejudice  will  pass  away. 

The  people  are  industrious,  sober,  and  civil,  and  although  ignorant, 
I  should  think  happy.  There  is  little,  if  any,  mixed  blood"  amon- 
them.  They  are  of  the  old  Arabian  stock.  Free  negroes  are  seen. 
Dark  hair,  eyes,  and  complexion,  are  most  common;  but  much 
diversity  in  form  and  feature,  and  in  the  colour  of  the  hair  exists 
The  character  of  the  features  of  the  inhabitants  is  usually  rather  a 
broad  face,  high  cheek  bones,  and  pointed  nose,  full  lips,  good  teeth 
and  retreating  chin.  The  men  are  very  muscular,  rather'al.ove  the' 
middle  height,  strongly  built,  and  capable  of  enduring  great  iliticruc. 
We  ah  agreed  that  the  women  were  particularly  ugly,  which  is  to  be 
imputed  in  part  to  the  hard  labour  required  of  them.  The  two  sexes 
do  not  appear  to  belong  to  the  same  race. 

The  men  of  the  lower  order  are  dressed  in  a  kind  of  loose  trousers 
(cuecas),  descending  as  far  as  the  knee,  with  a  shirt  or  jacket  of  a 
gaudy  colour.     Both  sexes  wear  a  kind  of  cap  (carapuca),  of  very 


i 


-^ 


-5 
I 


MADEIRA. 


19 


Every  body 
dial  jjassed 
designofi  by 
he  wino  cf 
ven  gonuino 

>  tlui  ishuid. 
in  ToiiL-'riire 
broken,  tlio 

indemnod  to 

1  had  much 
tilings:  this 
viz.,  wheat, 
isod,  and  of 
abundance, 
1  wants,  bu< 

the  present 
lony  in  its 
uiiiity,  that 
)mewhat  a 
1  nuinerous 
cnioiument. 
to  educate 
ctod  to  nn 
1.    As  they 

h  ignorant, 
lod  among 

>  are  seen, 
but  nmch 
lair  exists. 
y  rather  a 
;ood  teeth, 
above  the 
at  latiguc. 
ch  is  to  be 
two  sexes 

se  trousers 
icket  of  a 
),  of  very 


small  rbnonsions,  tied  under  the  chin.  Its  use  is  not  readily  conceived, 
as  It  IS  only  a  few  inches  in  diameter  at  its  base,  and  terminates  in  a 
conu  ;.'l  toj),  like  an  inverted  funnel. 

Til-  women  wc^ar  bodices,  with  short  petticoats  of  a  variety  of 
colo.us,  in  stripes.  They  have  usually  shoes  and  stockings,  but  they 
trenenillv  go  barefooted,  with  the.se  articles  ti.jd  in  a  small  bundle,  to 
be  put  on  when  they  wish  to  a|.poar  fine.  The  children  are  poorly 
clad,  have  but  one  garmint,  and  tiiat  dirty. 

The  habitations  f  the  lower  order  would  be  cilled  huts  in  our 
country.  They  are  composed  of  walls  of  stone,  about  five  or  six  feet 
high,  with  a  roof  rising  on  all  .sides  to  a  central  pole,  are  thatched  with 
straw  or  broom,  and  contain  onl)  one  roo,n.  The  only  aperture  for 
light  and  smoke  is  the  door.  There  is  but  little  necessitvTor  chimneys 
as  fire  is  seldom  re(,uired.  It  is  said  that  in  the  northern  part  of  the 
island,  soH.e  of  the  peasants  ,  -  their  habitation  in  caves  or 
excavations  on  the  hill-side. 


peasant'.?  cottage. 


In  the  town  of  Funcb.n.!,  there  are  many  elegant  establishments,  and 
much  luxury  among  the  higher  classes,  but  the  poorer  classes  are 
lodged  miserably.  The  houses  are  generally  of  one  story,  of  which 
the  exterior  is  well  kept,  being  neatly  whitewashed;  but  the  interior 
rs  any  thing  but  comfortable.  They  have  but  one  entrance.  The 
floors  are  paved  with  round  stones,  and  the  walls  are  of  rouHi  stone 
presenting  no  better  an  appearance  than  our  wood-cellarl  '  The 
Inrniture  is  scanty,  and  of  the  coarsest  kind.  Those  of  the  peasants 
are  more  characteristic  to  the  island.  The  wood-cut  above  is  a  good 
representation  of  their  habitations. 

Travelling  is  performed  in  sedan-chairs.  This  mode  is  always 
considered  the  safest  for  ladies,  particularly  in  crossing  the  mountains. 
Horses  and  mules  are  seldom  used.      On  leaving  Funchal  for  the 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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20 


MADEIRA. 


country,  it  is  one  continued  ascent  between  high  stone  walls,  these 
forming  abutments  to  the  terraces,  which  are  covered  with  vines, 
and  afrord  protection  from  the  sun.  After  reaching  the  hills,  one 
enjoys:  a  delightful  view  of  the  beautiful  gardens.  The  roadsides 
are  lined  throughout  with  flowers,  (to  us,  those  of  the  green-house,) 
among  them  Fuchsias,  Digitalis,  Rose  geraniums,  Punica  granilum, 
Rosa  mdica  coccinea.  Hydrangea  hortensis,  mixed  with  box-trees, 
myrtles,  &c. 

The  valleys  are  covered  with  the  Belladonna  lily,  and  the  mountain- 
passes  cannot  be  compared  to  any  thing  more  appropriate  than  to  a 
rich  flower-garden  left  to  grow  wild.  Added  to  ah  this,  a  climate 
which  resembles  our  finest  spring  weather. 

Such  of  thd  peasantry  as  do  not  gain  a  subsistence  in  the  vineyards, 
have  usually  a  small  patch  of  ground  which  they  cultivate,  raising 
gram,  corn,  potatoes,  and  the  taro  (Arum  esculentmn),  in- quantities 
barely  sufficient  to  eke  out  a  .canty  living.  The  cultivation  is 
commonly  performed  by  hand,  although  a  plough  of  very  simple 
-onstruction  is  sometimes  used.  Many  of  the  peasantry 'are  em- 
(.ioyod  as  carriers,  and  one  is  much  struck  by  their  numbers  when 
entering  Funchal,  early  in  the  morning,  with  sheepskins  filled  ^Nith 
wine  on  the.r  shoulders,  that  look  at  a  distance  more  like  the  live 


f 


WINE.CARRIEn3. 

animal  than  a  filled  skin.     These  skins  are  preserved  as  entire  as 
possible,   even   (he   legs   of    .he   animal    heinu'    rolaine.l.     Tliev    are 
generally  kept  steady  by  a  band  that  passes  over  the  forehead,  which 
supports   a   great  part   of  the   weight.     About    tuentj'-fivc  gallons 
weighing  more  than  two  hundred  pounds,  is  a  load.     They  move 


MADEIRA. 


A'alls,  these 
with  vines, 
3  hills,  one 
!  roadsides 
een-house,) 
a  granitum, 
box-trees, 

I  mountain- 

!  than  to  a 

a  climate 

vineyards, 
te,  raising 
•  quantities 
tivation  is 
3rv  simple 
Y  arc  em- 
bers when 
filled  with 
Q  the  live 


21 


x: 


entire  as 
riiey  are 
id,  which 
gallons, 
ey  move 


rapidly,  and  carry  this  load  five  miles  for  a  mere  trifle.  To  us,  one 
of  the  most  remarkable  features  in  the  population,  was  to  see  a 
female  not  only  thus  employed,  but  a  stout  mountain  lass  trudrrjn^ 
up  a  steep  path  with  ease,  under  a  load  that  would  have  sta-crered 
one  of  our  labourers,  even  for  a  short  distance. 

The  manner  of  expressing  the  juice  I  have  no  where  seen  particu- 
larly described,  and  although  a  description  of  it  may  not  add  a  relish 
to  the  cup,  yet  it  will  show  the  manufacture  as  conducted  according 
to  the  old  custom,  at  the  present  day.     A  friend  of  our  consul  was 
obhgmg  enough   to    show   us    his    works,   and   the   machinery   for 
expressmg  the  juice  from  the  grape.     It  was  in  a  rude  sort  of  shed 
On  our  approach  we  heard  a  sort  of  song,  with  a  continued  thumpinrr' 
and  on  entering,   saw  six  men  stamping  violently  in  a  vat  of  sfx 
eet  square  by  two  feet  deep,  three  on  each  side  of  a  huge  lever  beam 
he.r  legs  bare  up  to  the  thighs.     On  our  entrance  they  redoubled 
the.  exemonst:il   the  perspiration   fairly  poured  from'them;   ihe 
vat  had  been  h  led  with  grapes,  and  by  their  exertions  we  were 
enabled  to  see  the  whole  process.     After  the  grapes  had  been  suffi- 


WlNP.PRESa. 

ciently  stamped  and  the  men's  legs  well  scraped,  the  pulp  was  made 
nto  .he  shape  of  a  large  bee-hive,  a  rope  made  of  the  younHwirof 
he  vine  being  wound  around  it.     The  lever  was  th.^.  us!d    which 

has  a  large  stone  or  rock  attached  to  it  by  a  screw.     Mri' tim     is 

juice  flows  off;  and  is  received  in  tubs.     The  produce  of  the  press  is 

twobuJiels   of  grapes.     The  taste  is  very  much  like  sweet  cider 
The  process  .s  any  thing  but  pleasing,  and  endeavours  have  bee„ 


22 


MADEIRA. 


made  by  English  residents  to  substitute  maciiinery,  but  the  prejudices, 
vexations,  and  difficulties-  experienced,  have  caused  them  to  give  up 
the  attempt.  The  general  av^erage  is  from  one  to  three  pipes  of  wine 
per  acre  annually. 

The  south  side  of  Madeira,  as  is  well  known,  although  not  the 
most  fertile,  produces  the  finest  wines.  Every  point  which  can 
be  cultivated  successfully  is  attended  to,  and  earth  is  brought  to 
increase  the  soil  from  other  parts.  The  kinds  of  grapes  are  various, 
and  the  wines  manufactured  as  numerous.  The  common  Madeira 
is  obtained  from  a  mixture  of  Bual,  Verdelho,  and  Negro  Molle 
grapes;  the  Malmsey  and  Sercial  from  grapes  of  the  same  name. 
There  is  a  great  difl'erence  in  the  spots  and  peculiar  exposure  where 
the  vine  grows,  and  different  kinds  of  wine  are  produced,  according 
to  the  state  of  maturity  to  which  the  grape  is  allowed  to  arrive  at 
before  being  gathered.  After  being  expressed,  it  is  put  into  casks, 
undergoes  the  process  of  fermentation,  is  clarified  with  gypsum  or 
isinglass,  and  a  small  portion  of  brandy  is  added,  two  or  three  gallons 
to  the  pipe. 

The  deportment  of  the  lower  classes  is  a  mixture  of  politeness  and 
servility.  They  invariably  noticed  us  in  passing  by  taking  off  the 
cap ;  and  on  receiving  any  thing,  kissed  their  hands,  or  made  dome 
olher  respectful  salutation. 

The  language  spoken  in  Madeira  is  Portuguese,  but  with  a  rapid 
utterance,  or  rather,  clipping  or  abbreviating  of  their  words  and 
expressions. 

The  ignorance  of  the  common  people  seems  great.  Few  can  read, 
and  still  fewer  write.  It  is  said  they  are  acquainted  with  no  more 
than  three  coins,  all  of  which  are  Spanish,  namely,  dollars,  pistareens, 
and  bits,  and  that  many  kinds  of  Portuguese  coins  current  at  Lisbon 
will  not  pass  in  Madeira.  The  want  of  a  small  description  of  money 
is  much  felt. 

I  directed  a  party  of  officers  to  make  an  excursion  to  the  top  of 
Pico  Ruivo,  in  order  to  ascertain  its  height,  and  that  of  the  several 
points  on  their  way  up.  They  remained  four  hours  on  the  summit, 
during  which  time  simultaneous  observations  were  made  at  the  con- 
sul's house  by  Lieutenant  Carr  and  myself.  They  ascended  by  the 
Santa  A;  ma  road,  which  is  the  only  one  now  said  to  be  practicable. 
Punta  d'Empeno,  the  highest  point  of  cultivation,  was  found  to  be 
four  thousand  one  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  The  heights  of  other 
points  measured  will  be  found  in  the  tables.  The  results  of  the 
observations  give  for  the  height  of  the  peak  above  the  American 
Consulate,  six  thousand  one    hundred    and  eighty-one    feet.      The 


J 


MADEIRA. 


23 


cistern  of  the  barometer  at  the  latter  place,  above  half  tide,  was  found 
to  be  by  levelling  fifty-six  feet.  Total,  six  thousand  two  hundred  and 
thirty-seven  feet  above  half  tide. 

The  magnetical  observations  for  dip  and  intensity  were  also  made, 
and  the  longitude  by  chronometer  was  found  to  be,  16°  64'  11"  W. 
Latitude  by  observation,  32°  38'  11"  N. 

The  markets  are  well  supplied  with  meat,  poultry,  fish,  and  all 
kmds  of  vegetables. 

The  bat  noticed  by  Bowdich  was  the  only  one  of  the  mammalia 
seen  m  a  wild  state.  Of  birds,  two  species  of  hawks,  the  linnet,  the 
canary,  the  goldfinch,  the  yellow  wagtail,  and  the  swift,  were  all  that 
were  seen.  Sea  fish  are  abundant ;  but  not  a  single  trace  of  a  fresh 
water  fish  was  seen  or  found  in  the  streams.  Many  specimens  of 
Crustacea,  msects,  and  mollusca  were  added  to  our  collections 

The  ride  to  the  Quinta  of  Mr.  Bean  at  Comancha  is  one  of  the 
prettiest  the  island  affords.     It  is  towards  the  east  end,  and  some 
eight  or  ten  miles  from  the  town  of  Funchal.    For  variety  of  scenery 
and  the  beauty  of  its  grounds  it  is  not  exceeded  by  any  on  the  island 
and  It  gives  a  good  idea  of  the  effect  of  English  taste  when  applied 
to  the  scene,  y  and  fine  climate  of  Madeira.     The  road  to  it  is  the 
same  that  has  been  before  described,  pacsing  through  the  gorges  and 
around  the  difTerent  spurs,  which  gives  great  variety  to  it.  and  presents 
niany  fine  views.     Having  a  note  of  introduction  from  our  consul,  we 
stopped  at  Mr   Bean's  gate  and  sent  the  servant  in,  who  returned 
.nforming  us  that  Mr.  Bean  was  not  at  home,  but  a  kind  invitation 
to  enter  was  sent  to  us  from  his  lady.     We  did  so.  riding  through 
.edges  of  Fuchsias  and  Myrtles  t^velve  feet  high,  when  a  beautiful 
httle  cottage  on  a  small  level  spot  burst  suddenly  upon  our  view,  with 
us   verandahs   embosomed   in   creeping   vines,  and   from  the   notes 
of  various  kinds  of  birds,  one  could  almost  have  fancied  oneself  in  an 
aviary.    All  united  to  give   the   impression  that  it  was  the   abode 
of   contentment.       Several   small   lakes    were  partially  seen,   their 
dimensions  being  ingeniously  hid  from  view.     On  one  of  them  was 
seen  a  tmy  fleet  safely  moored,  on  another,  waterfalls,  &c.,  &c  ■  the 
banks  of  others  were  surrounded  with  aquatic  plants,  among  which 

wi  I  t  fv  ''''"  "  ''"  ''^^"-     ''''''  ^S^-  -«  -  -  struck 

Mth  the  dahlias,  geraniums,  roses,  and  jasmines,  and  the  varieties  of 

trees  and  shrubs  from  the  tropics,  besides  willows,  oaks,  elms,  &c 

ha    were  familiar  to  us.     A  view  through  the  trees  down  the  Zll 

to  the  distant  ocean  was  beautiful,  bringing  before  us  all  the  bold 

scenery  of  Madeira:  truly  it  was  an  enchanting  spot.     The  grounds 

are  extensive,  and  laid  out  with  great  taste,  and  each  spot  appeared 


24 


MADEIRA. 


in  keeping  with  the  whole.  The  hill  behind  the  house  was  found  by 
the  sympiesometer  to  be  two  thousand  and  ninety-eight  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  The  cottage  had  every  thing  to  recommend  it,  in  its 
library,  »&c.,  «Sz;c.  All  is  enjoyed  here  that  such  a  climate  as  that  of 
Madeira,  combined  with  taste  and  refinement,  can  give. 

After  a  stay  of  a  week,  we  had  made  all  our  repairs  and  arrange- 
ments which  were  necessary  in  consequence  of  our  defective  outfits, 
recruited  the  officers  and  men,  and  prepared  for  our  departure. 

Lest  it  should  be  supposed  at  home  that  I  had  exaggerated  the  state 
of  the  ships,  I  forwarded  from  Madeira  to  the  Honourable  Secretary 
of  the  Navy,  as  an  ocular  proof  how  defective  our  outfit  had  been, 
the  iron  hoops  that  had  rusted  off  the  pumps,  and  were  found  in  the 
well-room  of  the  Peacock.  Captain  Hudson's  report  relative  thereto 
will  be  found  in  Appendix  XV. 

The  diarrhoea  made  its  appearance  among  the  crews,  but  in  dis- 
pensing with  fruit  it  was  soon  stopped. 

Dui-ing  our  stay,  the  English  schooner  Star  was  seen  drifting  rapidly 
upon  the  Brazen-head,  and  was  only  saved  by  the  timely  aid  of  our 
boats.  She  was  found  to  be  without  an  anchor,  and  had  been 
upwards  of  eighty  days  at  sea  from  the  coast  of  Africa.  The  garrison 
of  Loo  Rock,  on  seeing  the  boats  proceeding  to  render  assistance,  fired 
several  guns  to  prevent  her  being  boarded.  This  would  have  eflbctually 
prevented  her  receiving  any  aid  from  the  shore,  but  as  our  boats  did 
not  understand  the  signal,  tiiey  went  on,  and  succeeded  in  saving  her 
from  wreck,  and  supplying  her  necessary  wants. 

With  a  favourable  wind  we  took  our  departure,  after  experiencing 
many  kindnesses  and  attentions  from  our  worthy  Vice-Consul,  Henry 
Jol'  1  Burden.  Esq.,  whose  house  and  time  were  entirely  given  up  to 
us  during  our  stay,  and  to  whom  I  would  beg  to  tender  our  warmest 
thanks.. 


»s 


i 


■^ 


I 
I 


MAnKIRA   ilDA'l', 


s  found  by 
above  the 

lid  it,  in  its 
as  that  of 


id  arrange- 
ive  outfits, 
ire. 

id  the  state 

Secretary 

had  been, 

und  in  tlie 

ive  thereto 

but  in  dis- 


CHAPTER  11. 


ing  rapidly 
aid  of  our 

had  been 
le  garrison 
tance,  fire<i 
eflectually 

boats  did 
saving  lier 


CONTENTS. 

sauADRoiv  SAILS  FROM  m.adeiua-ci;rrent.s-seaucii  for  shoals  and  VIGIAS- 

ARRIVAL  AT  ST.  JAGO-APPEARANCE  OF  THE  ISLAND-TOWN  OF  PORTO  PRAVA-lTs 
POPULATION-LANGUAGE-VISIT  TO  THE  GOVERNOH-PUHLIC  FOUNTAIN-.MAUKE'l- 
DRILL  OF  RECRUITS -DROUGHTS -CLIMATE -SLAVES -DRESS -DEPARTURE  FROM 
PORTO  PRAYA-FURTHER  SEARCH  FOR  SHOALS,  ETC—ARRIVAL  AT  RIO  JANEIRO 


periencing 
sul,  Henry 
iven  up  to 
r  wannest 


W 


CHAPTEK  II. 

PASSAGE   FROM  MADEIRA   TO  RIO   JANEIRO. 


18  38. 


On  the  25th  of  September,  having  completed  all  that  was  deemed 
necessary,  we  sailed  from  Madeira,  and  stood  to  the  southward, 
intending  to  pass  over  the  localities  where  shouls  were  supposed  to 
exist. 

The  morning  after  our  departure  from  Madeira  it  was  reported  to 
•liu  at  daylight  that  the  squadron  were  not  in  sight;  as  we  had  been 
making  rapid  progress  throughout  the  night,  I  concluded  that  we  had 
outrun  the  squadron,  and  hove  to  for  them  to  come  up.  About  eight 
o'clock  they  were  discovered.  On  joining,  I  was  informed  by  Captain 
Hudson  that  they  had  been  becalmed  for  several  hours,  although  we 
were  near  each  other  when  the  breeze  sprang  up.  These  veins  of 
wind  are  frequent  in  this  part  of  the  ocean. 

After  passing  the  Canary  Islands  we  experienced  a  current  setting 
northeast  by  east,  of  about  one  fourth  of  a  mile  an  hour,  until  we 
reached  the  latitude  of  Bonavista,  one  of  the  Cape  de  Verde  Islands. 
This  somewhat  surprised  me,  for  I  had  formed  the  idea  that  the  set  of 
the  current  should  have  been  in  the  direction  of  our  course ;  but  many 
careful  observations  with  the  current-log,  and  the  difference  between 
our  astronomical  observations  and  dead  reckoning,  gave  the  same 
results. 

It  was  my  intention  on  leaving  the  United  States  to  pass  from 
Madeira  through  the  Sargasso  Sea,  in  order  to  ascertain  something 
definite  in  relation  to  this  unexplored  and  interesting  localitj-,  and  to 
gain  some  information  relative  to  the  Fucus  natans,  or  Gulf-woed,  the 
origin  of  which  has  remained  so  long  in  doubt.  Deep  soundings  in' this 
part  of  the  ocean  I  deemed  would  be  very  interesting,  and  n'n'ord  an 

(27) 


98 


PASSAGE    FR  O  M    M  A  1)  K  I  It  A 


opportunilyof  sottlii.ir  i|,o  origin  cf  this  plant,  which  is  spread  over  the 
whole  ocean;  hut  my  time  ,li,|  n..t  per.nit  ,ne  to  make  this  deviation 
from  our  d.rect  course,  and  I  hoped  on  n.y  return  to  have  ample 
leisure  for  its  cxjiloration. 

On  the  29th  of  September,  we  passed  into  discoloured  water,  as 
green  m  appearance  as  that  of  fifty  fathoms  depth.  On  enterin-  it  the 
thermometer  fell  one  and  a  half  to  two  degrees.  The  distanco'run  in 
It  was  about  four  lumdred  and  fifty  miles.  Repeated  casts  of  the  deep 
sea  lead  were  had  in  from  two  to  three  hundred  flvthoms,  but  no  bottom 
lound.  riic  water  was  particularly  examined  fur  animalcula  but 
none  were  detected.  On  leaving  it  a  rise  of  temperature  took  place  of 
two  (  egrees ;  and  much  phosphorescence  was  seen  when  we  Imd 
passed  out  of  it. 

The  first  shoal  searched  for  was  the  Maria  Rock,  said  to  be  in 
latitude  10°  45'  N.,  and  longitude  20°  .^.0'  W.  In  its  neighbourhood 
our  position  was  carefully  ascertained.  The  vessels  were  then  spread 
m  open  order,  and  a  course  sailed  to  pass  directly  over  the  spot.  The 
surface  of  the  ocean  visible  wa.  not  less  than  twenty  miles  in  latitude 
with  every  opportunity  which  clear  weather  could  allbrd.  Good  look- 
nuts  were  kept  at  the  nnasthead,  and  there  was  a  sulHcient  swell  to 
cause  breakers  on  any  shoal  within  fifteen  feet  of  the  surface  We 
ran  over  the  locality  without  perceiving  any  thing  that  indicated  a 
slioal. 

The  situation  of  the  Bom  Felix  Shoal,  laid  down  about  ten  leagues 
to  the  south  of  the  above,  was  passed   over   in  the  same  marmer 
sounding  repeatedly  for  bottom  with  three  hundred  fathoms  of  line 
but  no  appearance  of  a  shoal  was  observed.  ' 

The  reported  position  of  the  Bonetta  Rocks  next  claimed  our 
attention,  in  latitude  1G°  32'  N..  and  longitude  20°  57'  W.  After  this 
locality  had  been  well  examined,  a  course  was  steered  over  its  sun- 
posed  bearing  from  Bonavista,  one  of  the  Cape  de  Verde  Islands. 
The  vessels  of  the  squadron  sounding  every  half  hour  during  the  ni-ht. 
which  was  clear  and  bright  moonVght.* 

On  the  night  of  the  0th  of  October,  we  hove  to  off  the  island  of 
!^t.  Jago.     Seldom  have  we  seen  the  sea  exhibit  so  much  phospho- 

•Since  our  examinatmn,  I  hav  seen  a  letter  from  tl.c  American  consul  at  Porto  Praya 
F.  G  rdmer,  Esq  deta.l.ng  th.  .reck  of  the  British  ship  Charlotte  in  1841,  and  plaX' 
tins  shoal  .n  laftudc  16^  17'  N..  longitude  22°  21'  W..  84'  i„  longitude  and  15  „  lati  2 
from  the  pos.t.on  I  searched  for  it  in;  whence  it  appears  that  it  i'the  same  reef    n  wS 

the  Hart  well  Reef.    The  .amo  gentleman  was  confident  at  the  time  I  saw  him  tliat  the 
Magdelame  had  been  lo^.  on  the  reef  of  that  name. 


'™ 


TO    RIO   JANEIRO. 


99 


resccnco.  Its  hrillianoy  was  so  great,  that  it  might  truly  he  said  to 
have  the  appearance  of  being  on  fire.  We  ,nado  some  experiments 
to  ascertain  the  depth  I,,  which  these  phosphorescent  animalcula 
extended.  After  n.any  trials  fhey  were  not  found  below  eighteen 
tatiioins.  J  ho  teinperaturc  of  the  water  at  that  depth  was  79°  at 
llie  surface  80°,  and  at  one  hundred  fathoms  dej.th  68°.  The  mean 
temperature  of  the  air  from  Madeira  until  our  arrival  off  this  port 
was  found  to  have  increase<l  from  00°  to  78°,  while  the  diflerence  in 
the  water  was  from  71°  to  81°. 

On  the  morning  of  the  7th,  we  anchored  in  Porto  Praya  bay.  The 
island  of  St.  Jago  presents  a  very  didb^ent  appearance  from  Madeira, 
particularly  the  southeastern  portion  of  it,  though  its  formation  is 
known  to  bo  sunilar.  There  arc  mar.y  high  peaks  and  mountains 
in  IS  centre,  which  afford  a  fine  background  for  the  barren  an" 
uninteresting  coast  scenery. 


It  ten  leagues 


TI,o  lime  of  our  arrival  was  just  after  the  rainy  season,  the  island 

otiier  seasons  of  the  year. 

Our  Consul.  F.  Gardiner,  Esq.,  came  on  board  and  made  us  wel- 

ome  to  all  the  island  alVordod.     Ai:  officei  was  despatched  to  la  1 

upon  his  excellency  the  governor,  to  report  our  arrival,  who  proved 

to  be  a  black  man.     Knowing  that  the  regulations  required  perm  ssL 


so 


PASSAGE    FROM    M  A  D  E I R  A 


for  vosstsls  to  (l(!|)iut,  tho  rcqiioat  was  made  during  iho  inlorvicw,  which 
ho  roadily  granted  at  any  hour  wo  choso. 

Tilt!  fowii  of  l*i)rf()  IVaya  is  prettily  situated  on  an  elevated  piece 
of  tal)io  land,  and  looked  well  from  the  anchorage. 

Tho  hay  is  an  open  one,  but  is  not  exposed  to  tho  prevailing  winds. 
There  is  g(!Mcrally  a  svv(;ll  setting  in,  whii^h  makes  tho  landing  un- 
pleasant and  ilillicult.  The  only  landiug-phuM!  is  a  small  rock,  some 
distance  from  the  town,  and  under  a  high  bank,  on  which  there  is, 
or  rather  was,  n  fortification,  for  it  is  now  entirely  gone  to  decay.  It 
commands  the  bay,  niid  is  situated  about  two  hundred  feet  above 
the  sea.  The  horizontal  stratification  of  the  red  and  yellow-coloured 
saudslono  shows  most  conspicuously  in  this  din",  and  forms  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  objects  on  this  part  of  the  island.  It  is  of  tertiary 
formation,  and  contains  many  fossils.  I  regretted  extremely  that  my 
time  did  not  permit  me  to  make  a  longer  stay,  as  we  left  the  island 
under  the  impression  that  there  is  much  here  to  bo  found  that  is  new 
in  the  various  departments  of  natural  history.  Between  this  bluff  and 
the  town  is  an  extensive  valley,  in  which  are  many  date-palms,  cocoa- 
nuts,  and  a  species  of  aloe. 

On  landing,  a  stranger  is  immediately  surrounded  by  numbers  of  the 
inhabitants,  with  fruit,  vegetables,  chickens,  turkeys,  and  monkeys,  all 
pressing  him  with  bargains,  and  willing  to  take  any  thing  for  tho 
purpose  of  obliging  their  customers.  Many  of  ♦hem  continue  to  follow 
until  they  meet  with  some  new  customer. 

The  soil,  rocks,  and  every  thing  around  on  the  surface,  show 
unerinivocal  marks  of  volcanic  origin.  The  rock  above  the  tertiary 
formation  is  a  thick  bed  of  cellular  lava,  with  fragments  of  the  same 
strewn  in  every  direction  over  it.  A  thin  and  poor  soil  gives  but 
little  sustenance  to  a  light  herbage.  Goats  and  asses  are  found  in 
groat  numbers  grazing  upon  it. 

The  length  of  our  visit  did  not  permit  us  to  make  much  examina- 
tion, yet  the  character  of  the  vegetation  was  unequivocally  African. 

The  walk  from  the  landing  to  tho  town  is  exceedingly  fatiguing, 
and  the  road  deep  with  sand.  The  first  view  of  tho  town  on  enTeriiig 
it  is  any  thmg  but  striking,  and  all  the  ideas  formed  in  its  favour  arc 
soon  (lispcllod.  The  houses  are  whitewashed,  and  in  general  appear- 
ance resemble  those  inhabited  by  the  lower  orders  in  Madeira,  but 
they  are  much  inferior  even  to  them.  The  northeast  part  of  the  town 
is  composed  of  rough  stone  houses,  covered  with  palm  leaves.  Tho 
streets  are  wide,  and  in  the  centre  is  a  large  public  square,  the  middlo 
of  which  is  occupied  by  a  small  wooden  monument  said  to  be  emblo- 


TO    RIO   JANKIRO. 


31 


new,  which 


I'atod  pi 


I'ce 


ilini»  winds, 
landing  iin- 
rork,  some 
I'h  thorc  is, 

derny.     If 

foot  nhnvo 
\v-c()l()ured 

one  of  the 
of  tertiary 
y  tliat  my 

tlie  island 
[hat  is  new 
s  bhiffand 
ms,  cocoa- 

hcrs  of  the 
)nkcys,  all 
ig  for  the 
3  to  follow 

ice,  show 
le  tertiary 
'  the  same 
gives  bnt 
!  found  in 

examina- 
Lfrioan. 

fatiguing, 
1  entering 
avour  are 
il  ai)peiir- 
leira,  hut 

the  town 
ves.  The 
he  middio 
)e  emble- 


matical of  royalty!  A  chapel,  jail,  and  barracks  constitute  the 
principal  public  buildings.  The  fort,  which  Hanks  the  town,  is  almost 
entirely  in  decay.  This  is  the  case  with  almost  every  thing  wo  saw 
here :  tin;  place  is,  indeed,  little  better  than  an  African  town.  The 
^^ouses  are  of  stone,  one  story  high,  partly  thatched,  and  others  tiled. 
Their  interior  presents  only  a  few  articles  of  absolute  necessity.  0\' 
comfort  and  cloouliness,  in  our  sense  of  the  words,  they  have  no  idea. 
The  houses  and  streets  are  filthy  in  the  extreme,  and  in  both  of  them, 
pigs,  fowls,  and  monkeys  appear  to  claim,  and  really  possess,  eqivM 
rights  with  the  occupants  and  owner. 

The  population  is  made  up  of  an  intermixture  of  descendants  from 
the  Portuguese,  natives,  and  negroes  from  the  adjacent  coast.  The 
Negro  race  seems  to  predominate,  wof)lly  hair,  flat  noses,  and  ii..ck 
li|>s  being  most  frequently  met  with.  The  number  of  inhabitants  in  St. 
Jago  is  about  thirty  thousand.  Porto  Praya  contains  two  thousand 
three  hundred,  of  which  number  one  hundred  n  (-.  native  Portuguese, 

The  language  .spoken,  is  a  jargon  formed  by  a  mixture  of  the 
Portuguese  and  Negro  dialects.  Most  of  the  blacks  speak  their  native 
tongue.  Mr.  Hale,  our  philologist,  obtained  here  a  vocabulary  of  the 
Mandingo  language,  and  found  it  to  agree  with  that  given  by  Mungo 
Park. 

The  ofRcers  of  this  garrison  were,  like  the  governor,  all  black. 
The  latter  made  a  brilliant  appearance,  dressed  in  a  military  frock 
coat,  red  sash,  two  largo  silver  epaidettcs,  and  a  military  cross  on 
his  breast.  Ho  was  quite  good-looking,  although  extremely  coq)uIent, 
and  speaks  both  French  and  Spanish  well.  He  was  very  civil  and 
attentive.  Fruit,  bread,  cheese,  and  wines  were  handed  about.  Some 
ol  the  wine  was  made  on  the  island  of  Fogo,  and  resembled  the  light 
Italian  wines.  The  cheese  also  was  made  here  from  goats'  milk,  and 
resembled  the  Spanish  cheese.  After  doing  ample  justice  to  his  excel- 
lency's  good  fare,  we  proceeded  to  view  the  lions  of  the  place. 

The  first  and  greatest  of  these  is  tho  fountain,  or  common  watering 
place  of  the  town,  above  half  a  mile  distant  by  the  path,  in  a  valley  to 
the  west  of  the  town,  and  almost  immediately  under  it.  The  fountain 
is  surrounded  by  a  variety  of  tropical  trees,  consisting  of  dates,  cocoa- 
nuts,  bananas,  papayas,  sugar-cane,  and  tamarinds,  with  grapes, 
oranges,  limes,  &c.  &c.,  and  when  brought  into  comparison  with  the 
surrounding  lands,  may  be  termed  an  enchanting  spot ;  but  what  adds 
peculiarly  to  its  efiect  on  a  stranger,  is  the  novelty  of  the  objects  that 
are  brought  together.  Over  the  spring  is  a  thatched  roof,  and  round 
about  it  a  group  of  the  most  remarkable  objects  in  human  shape  that 
can  well  be  conceived.    On  one  side  blind  bcggan,,  dirty  soldiers,  and 


32 


PASSAGE    FROM    MADEIRA 


naked  children ;  on  another,  lepers,  boys  with  monkeys,  others  with 
fowls,  half-dressed  women,  asses  not  bigger  than  sheep,  and  hogs  of 
a  mammoth  breed ;  to  say  nothing  of  those  with  cutaneous  disorders, 
»fec.  &c.,  that  were  undergoing  ablution.     All  conspired  to  form  a 
scene  peculiar,  I  should  think,  to  this  semi-African  population.     Here 
sailors  watering  and  washing,  chatting,  talking,  and  laughing ;  there 
a  group  of  "far  nientc"  natives  of  all  sizes,  shapes,  and  colours,  half 
clothed,  with  tnrbaned  heads   and   handkerchiefs  of  many  and  gay 
colours,  tied  on  after  a  difTerent  fashion  from  what  we  had  been  ac- 
customed to,  the  shawls  being  reversed,  their   ends   hanging  down 
behind  instead  of  before,  completely  covering  the  breast,  and  one 
fourth  of  the  lace.     What  portior  of  this  group  had  honoured  the 
place  in  consequence  of  our  visit,  it  would  be  difficult  to  conjecture, 
all  were  eager,  however,  to  derive  some  benefit  from  the  meeting, 
particularly  the  beggars,  who  are  equa'dy  pertinacious   with   those 
found  elsewhere,  and  are  certainly  great  object?  of  commiseration. 
This  well  barely  supjilies  the  wants  of  the  inhabitants  and  shipping, 
and  they  are  now  about  building  a  reservoir.     The  whole  of  the  stone 
for  it  was  prepared  in  Portugal,  and  made  ready  for  putting  up.     It  is 
to  be  of  marble.     The  water  for  its  supply  is  brought  two  miles  in 
iron  pipes.     It  is  said  that  it  will  cost  $130,000,  and  is  the  only  im 
provement  that  has  been  undertaken  by  government  for  many  a  year. 

A  market  is  held  daily  in  the  morning  when  any  vessels  are  in 
port.  The  square  in  which  it  is  held  is  quite  a  large  one,  with  a  cross 
in  its  centre.  The  market  is  not  of  mucli  extent,  but  a  great  variety 
of  tropical  fruits,  of  the  kinds  before  enumerated,  are  exposed  for  sale 
in  small  quantities,  as  well  as  vegetables.  These  consist  of  cabbage- 
leaves,  beans,  pumpkins,  squashes,  corn,  potatoes,  yams,  mandioca. 
&c.  All  these  were  spread  out  on  the  large  leaves  of  ['a  cocoa-nut 
free.  No  kind  of  meat  was  for  sale.  The  only  articles  of  this 
description  -were  chickens  four  or  five  days  old,  tied  up  in  bunches, 
and  some  eggs.  In  order  to  obtain  beef,  it  is  necessary  to  buy  the 
cattle  at  the  cattle-yard,  where,  on  previous  notice  being  given,  you 
may  choose  those  that  suit  for  slaughter.  They  are  in  general  of 
small  size,  and  dark-coloured.  Those  we  saw  were  from  the  interior 
of  the  island,  where  they  are  said  to  thrive  well. 

The  morning  drill  of  the  recruits  which  was  witnessed,  was 
amusing.  They  were  cleanly  dressed,  but  the  rattan  was  freely  used 
by  the  sergeant,  and  what  seemed  characteristic  or  in  keepinfr  with 
appearances  around,  the  sergeant  during  the  drill  ordered  one  of  Iiis 
men  from  the  ranks,  to  bring  him  some  fire  to  light  his  cigar ! 
No  trades  were  observed,  and  but  one  small  carpenter's  shop.    A 


TO    RIO    JANEIRO. 


3i 


few  shops  were  supplied  with  cotton,  hardware,  &c.  There  were 
likewise  a  number  of  little  wine  shops,  where  they  also  sold  fruit,  which 
they  usually  have  in  great  plenty,  but  all  their  crops  depend  much 
upon  the  rains,  and  the  inhabitants  have  also  become  indifferent  or 
careless  about  raising  more  than  for  their  own  supply,  from  the  heavy 
exactions  of  government  made  upon  every  thing  that  is  cultivated. 
Ihe  demand  fo.^  shipping  has  of  late  years  very  much  deci'eased. 
I  he  improvement  in  the  supplies  and  comforts  on  board  of  vessels  on 
long  voyages,  now  make  it  unnecessary  to  touch  in  port,  as  was 
formerly  deemed  unavoidable. 

Porto  Praya  is  yet  visited  by  whale-shipr  for  supplies.  Although 
the  soil  IS  poor,  and  tne  crops  very  uncertain,  yet  the  tropical  fruits 
and  some  vegetables  can  always  be  obtained  here.  They  are  usually. 
If  time  ,s  allowed,  brought  from  the  interior.  The  inhabitants  have 
at  times  suffered  almost  the  extremes  of  famine,  in  consequence  of  the 
droughts  that  prevail  for  successive  years,  and  especially  during  the 
on-,  that  took  place  in  1832.  It  gave  me  pleasure  to  hear  that  the 
timely  aid  sent  there  during  its  prevalence  from  the  United  States  was 
remembered  with  gratitude. 

The  exports  from  these  islands  are  salt,  some  ordinary  wine,  hides 
goats  skins,  and  orchilla.  The  latter  is  a  government  monopoly! 
Ninety  thousand  m.lrees  were  paid  by  the  company  for  the  yeariv 
crop  and  it  is  said  at  that  price  to  yield  a  handsome  profit. 

1  he  climate  of  these  islands  is  said  to  be  healthy,  though  exceedingly 
warm.  It  is  subject  to  fevers,  which  generally  take  place  during  The 
ramy  months  of  July  and  August.  There  is  an  indistinctness  if  the 
atmosphere  that  I  have  not  experienced  elsewhere,  which  causes  every 
thing  to  be  ,11  defined,  although  the  day  may  be  fair.  The  same 
appearance  was  observed  after  a  shower  of  rain  as  before  The 
temperature  of  the  air  was  found  here  to  be  75-7°.  and  of  the  water  81° 

of  Th.'  rr  ^"'  ^'"7  ^"'  ^'^  '"  ""'  "f  '^'  ««^^^  *«  the  eastward 
of  the  anchorage  ,n  what  we  understood  was  a  place  well  adapted 
or  the  purpose,  but  it  did  not  prov^  so.     I  should  prefer  the  wesLn 
beach,  as  offering  better  luck  and  being  more  advantageous. 

Bats  were  the  only  wild  mammiferous  animals  seen  here.     For 
the  short  time  we  remained,  our  naturalists  were  actively  employed 
and  many  specimens  were  added  to  our  collections  in  Ornithology 
spoken'of  ^««PhyteS'  with  some  fossils  from  the  bank  already 

Slaves  are  imported  from  the  coast  of  Africa,  and  settlers  or  head, 
of  fomilies  are  not  allowed  to  bring  with  them  more  than  ten  slaves. 

o 


84 


PASSAGE    FROM    MADEIRA 


I 


There  was  me  at  the  consul's,  recently  imported  from  the  Foolan 
district  in  Africa,  who  was  purchased  by  him  for  one  hundred  and 
fifty  dollars. 

The  costumes  here  are  so  various  that  it  scarcely  can  be  said  that 
any  one  of  them  is  peculiar  to  the  island.  The  men  generally  wear 
a  white  shirt  and  trousers,  with  a  dark  vest,  principally  the  cast-oft" 
clothing  of  the  whites.  Others  go  quite  naked,  excepting  a  straw  hat ; 
others  again  are  in  loose  shirts.  The  women  have  a  shawl  fastened 
around  them,  with  occasionally  another  thrown  over  them,  covering 
the  mouth  and  bust,  and  crossing  behind.  The  children  for  the  most 
part  go  naked. 

The  Relief  not  having  arrived,  I  deemed  it  an  unnecessary  deten- 
tion to  await  her  here.  There  was  great  necessity  of  reaching  Rio 
de  Janeiro  as  soon  as  possible,  in  order  to  complete  our  outfits, 
and  put  the  vessels  in  fit  condition  to  meet  the  Antarctic  cruising 
as  soon  as  possible.  I  therefore  determined  to  proceed  thither  forth- 
with. The  Store-ship  did  not  reach  Porto  Praya  until  the  18th, 
after  a  passage  from  Hampton  Roads  of  sixty  days.  Nothing  more' 
truly  illustrates  the  necessity  of  navigating  in  the  prevailing  winds, 
than  this  passage  of  the  Relief  compared  with  that  of  the  squadron. 
We  took  the  route  by  Madeira,  over  one  thousand  miles  greater  in 
distance,  remained  there  a  week,  and  yet  we  arrived  at  Porto  Praya 
eleven  days  sooner.  The  Relief,  pursuing  the  direct  route,  had  light 
baffling  winds  during  her  whole  passage.  Although  something  is 
undoubtedly  due  to  her  dull  sailing,  yet  the  difference  is  too  great  to  be 
entirely  attributed  to  that  cause.  The  winds  were  generally  found  by 
her  from  the  northward  and  eastward,  and  southward  and  eastward, 
whilst  we,  in  a  higher  latitude,  had  them  from  the  southwest,  and  the 
westward. 

On  the  7th  of  October,  we  left  Porto  Praya,  and  stood  for  Patty's 
Overfalls,  as  laid  down  on  the  chart,  in  latitude  11°  N.,  and  longitude 
24°  25'  W.  In  the  afternoon  we  spoke  the  Danish  brig  Lion,  from 
Rio  de  Janeiro.  She  had  crossed  the  line  in  longitude  27°  W.,  and 
had  brought  the  trades  to  6°  30'  N.  We  lost  the  trade  winds  the  day 
after  we  left  Porto  Praya,  the  8th  of  October,  in  latitude  12°  N.,  and 
longitude  23°  30'  W.  The  winds  then  became  variable,  and  squalls 
of  rain  onsued.  The  upper  clouds  had  still  a  quick  motion  to  the 
westward.  On  the  same  day  we  spoke  the  Crusader,  seventy-five 
days  from  Bombay,  which  vessel  was  in  want  of  medical  aid.  I  sent 
the  surgeon  on  board,  and  administered  to  their  wants  every  thing 
that  was  in  our  power.     It  afforded  us  no  small  pleasure  to  supply 


TO   RIO   JANEIRO. 


35 


the  Foolan 
tundred  and 

be  said  that 
lerally  wear 
the  cast-oft" 
I  straw  hat ; 
iwl  fastened 
m,  covering 
for  the  most 

ssary  deten- 
laching  Rio 
our  outfits, 
tic  cruising 
hither  forth- 
I  the  18th, 
>thing  more 
iling  winds, 
e  squadron. 
1  greater  in 
'orto  Praya 
e,  had  light 
)mething  is 
great  to  be 
ly  found  by 
d  eastward, 
est,  and  the 

for  Patty's 
id  longitude 

Lion,  from 
r  W.,  and 
ids  the  day 
12°  N.,  and 
and  squalls 
tion  to  the 
seventy-five 
lid.  I  sent 
ivery  thing 
!  to  supply 


them  with  some  fruit  and  vegetables,  which  were  very  acceptable  to 
the  numerous  passengers.  The  Crusader  had  crossed  the"  line  in 
longitude  22°  W,,  and  lost  the  trades  in  latitude  7°  30'  N. 

On  the  9th  we  reached  the  supposed  position  of  Patty's  Overfalls, 
and  were  becalmed  close  in  their  proximity  for  forty-eight  hours. 
Nothing  was  seen  of  them.  We  had  passed  through  rips  trending 
east  and  west,  but  no  current  was  found  on  the  trials  which  were 
made,  nor  did  the  reckoning  show  any.  If  any  had  existed,  we  must 
have  been  made  aware  of  it  during  the  time  we  were  becalmed,  for 
we  remained  nearly  in  the  same  position  forty-eight  hours.  Thence 
we  stood  for  Warley's  Shoal.  The  weather  had  the  same  indistinct- 
ness that  we  had  first  observed  at  Porto  Praya.  It  might  be  termed 
a  dry  haze. 

In  this  part  of  the  ocean  we  passed  through  spaces  of  water,  from 
ten  to  thirty  miles  in  width,  in  which  the  temperature  of  the  water 
frequently  rose  three  or  four  degrees.     This  increase  seemed  to  me 
to  indicate  the  existence  of  currents.    I  was,  therefore,  very  particular 
in  watching  for  them,  and  the  only  indication  we  had  was  of  a  very 
slight  one  to  the  southward  and  eastward.    Our  winds  continued  light 
and  variable,  and  sailing  in  squadron,  we  had  many  opportunities 
of  observing  their  different  courses.     On  the    12th  of  October   a 
remarkable  one  happened,  in  which  all  the  squadron,  while  sailing 
with  a  brisk  breeze  from  the  southeast,  were  taken  aback,  and  at  one 
time  all  apparently  had  the  wind  from  different  quarters,  although  but 
a  few  cables'  length  distant  from  one  another.    The  Peacock  and 
Porpoise  were  very  near  running  into  each  other.     The  whirl  was  in 
the  direction  of  the  hands  of  a  watch.     On  the  night  of  the  10th  we 
parted  company  with  the  Peacock,  and  on  the  17th  spoke  an  English 
whaler,  seventy  days  from  New  Zealand,  by  the  way  of  Cape  Horn, 
who  reported  he  had  lost  the  southeast  trades  in  latitude  6°  55'  N 
longitude  21°  10'  W.  "' 

On  the  morning  of  the  18th,  thirty  falling  stars  were  seen  in  as 
many  minutes,  shooting  in  all  diiections  from  the  constellations 
Gemini  and  Taurus.  On  board  the  Peacock,  some  sixty  miles  to  the 
westward  of  us,  they  were  much  more  brilliant,  and  in  greater 
numbers. 

On  the  22d,  several  common  European  swallows  were  seen  about 
the  vessels. 

The  24th,  we  reached  the  position  assigned  to  Warley's  Shoal,  in 
latitude  5°  4'  N.,  longitude  21°  25'  W.  The  vessels  were  spread' as 
before  described,  in  open  order,  covering  as  much  space  as  possible. 
We  passed  over  the  supposed  locality,  but  saw  no  appearance  of 


86 


PASSAGE    FROM    MADEIRA 


shoal  water,  or  danger  of  any  kind.  Here  we  experienced  westerly 
winds,  and  took  advantage  of  them  to  make  easting.  After  we  liad 
lost  the  trades,  in  latitude  12°  N.,  I  observed,  when  the  upper  stratum 
of  clouds  could  be  seen,  that  they  were  passing  from  east-northeast, 
with  rapidity  to  the  westward. 

We  now  ran  for  the  French  Shoal,  in  latitude  4°  5'  N.,  longitude 
20°  35'  W.  Here  the  wind  inclined  to  the  southward,  and  we  pro- 
ceeded as  far  east  as  longitude  13°  W.,  passing  over  the  two  positions 
laid  down  by  the  French  and  English  hydrographers,  but  saw  nothing' 
of  it. 

We  now  tacked  to  the  southward,  to  cross  the  equator  in  longitude 
17°  W.  The  weather  had  changed,  the  rains  which  we  had  expe- 
rienced at  night  ceased,  and  the  extremely  indistinct  atmosphere 
which  at  times  had  prevailed  for  the  last  fortnight,  disappeared.  It  is 
difficult  to  describe  the  peculiar  effect  this  haziness  produced.  It 
seemed  to  me  an  effect  the  opposite  of  that  of  looming,  apparently 
diminishing  all  objects.  Although  the  horizon  was  seen,  yet  the  sea 
and  sky  were  so  blended  together,  that  it  was  difficult  for  the  eye  to 
fix  upon  or  define  it  at  any  moment.  It  was  impossible  to  use  the  dip 
sector.  At  the  same  time  it  was  perfectly  clear  over  head,  with  a 
bright  sun,  and  the  upper  cirrus  clouds,  when  seen,  were  in  rapid 
motion  to  the  westward. 

The  quantity  of  rain  that  fell  between  9°  30'  and  5°  north  latitude, 
was  G-15  inches  during  ten  days.  The  greatest  fall  in  twenty-four 
hours  was  1-95  inches.  The  temperature  of  the  rain  on  several  trials 
varied  from  69°  to  72°,  that  of  the  air  being  at  the  time  77°. 

The  nights  were  now  beautiful  until  near  morning,  when  it  generally 
clouded  over,  and  remained  overcast  with  flying  clouds  until  evening. 
The  zodiacal  light  was  once  or  twice  observed,  but  the  presence  of 
these  clouds  for  the  most  part  prevented  it  from  being  seen. 

On  the  29th,  in  latitude  3°  40'  N.,  our  observations  gave  a  current  of 
ten  miles  in  twenty-four  hours,  to  the  north.  Until  the  3d  of  November 
we  had  light  winds  ;  the  upper  stratum  of  clouds  was  now  seen  movmg 
from  the  east.  On  the  4th  we  had  a  cry  of  breakers  from  the  mast- 
head.  We  im^mediately  changed  our  course  and  ran  for  the  appear- 
ance, but  it  proved  on  nearing  it  to  have  been  one  of  the  many  optical 
illusions  seen  at  sea,  from  the  effect  of  light  and  shadow. 

On  board  the  Peacock,  on  the  30th  of  October,  in  latitude  1°  30'  N., 
longitude  18°  W.,  they  witnessed  a  remarkable  appearance,  resembling 
the  au--ora  borealis,  radiating  from  the  northwest  point  of  the  horizon 
in  ditlerent  directions,  and  extending  from  southwest  round  by  the 
aorth  to  the  eastward,  at  an  altitude  of  from  10°  to  50° ;  afterwards 


ed  westerly 
fter  we  liad 
per  stratum 
3t-northeast, 

J.,  longitude 
nd  we  pro- 
ve positions 
saw  nothing 

in  longitude 
!  had  expe- 
atmosphere 
sared.  It  is 
odiiced.     It 

apparently 
yet  the  sea 
r  the  eye  to 

use  the  dip 
3ad,  with  a 
"e  in  rapid 

rth  latitude, 
twenty-four 
Jveral  trials 

it  generally 
itil  evening. 
)resence  of 

,  current  of 
'  November 
Jen  moving 
1  the  mast- 
the  appear- 
any  optical 

}  1°  30'  N., 
resembling 
[he  horizon 
md  by  the 
afterwards 


TO   RIO   JANEIRO. 


87 


reaching  to  the  zenith,  and  passing  over  the  moon's  disk,  encircling 
her  with  a  famt  halo  of  twenty  degrees  in  diameter.  It  continued  an 
nour.  and  although  it  was  bright  moonlight,  the  phenomenon  was  very 
dishnct  and  beautiful. 

On  the  5th,  the  winds  drew  to  the  south-southeast,  and  we  crossed 
the  Ime,  as  we  had  intended,  in  longitude  17°  W.,  which  enabled  us  to 
pas^s  over  and  examine  the  supposed  locality  of  the  Triton  Bank   in 
longitude    17°  46'  W.,  latitude  00°  32'  00"  S.      The   current  was 
found  this  day  to  be  setting  to  the  northeast,  fifteen   miles  in  the 
last  twenty.four  hours.     This  night  the  sea  was  extremely  brilliant, 
showing  m  large  luminous  patches.    The  light  proved  to  be  occasioned 
by  a  large  species  of  Pyrosoma.  some  of  which  were  ten  inches  in 
length,  and  two   inches  in  diameter.     Many  phosphorescent  animal- 
cula  were  taken,  and  some  rips  that  were  seen,  exhibited  long  lines 
of  bnlhant  hght.     Temperature  of  water  76-5°.    Our   dipping-needle 
on  the  equator  gave  23°  30'.     Hourly  observations  were  made  for 
forty-eight    hours,  to    ascertain    the   oscillations   of   the    barometer 
under  the  equator  (for  which  see  Appendix  XVI.)     The  periods  of 
oscillation  were  found  to  be  as  follows:  the  maxima   at   nine  a.  m 
and  mne  p.  m.,  and  the  minima  at  three  a.  m.  and  three  p.  m.     The 
variation  was  -1  of  an  inch,  and  was  found  to  be  very  regular,  from 
latitude  3°  30'  N.,  to  4°  S.  '-^feuu  r,  irom 

We  had  now  heavy  deposits  of  dew.  on  several  fine  and  cloudless 
evenings.     Indeed  the  sun  had  scarcely  set  before  the  ship  was  quite 
wet  with  ,t.    One  of  the  essential  requisites  supposed  necessary  by  Dr. 
Wells  for  a  deposit  of  dew.  was  certainly  wanting  in  this  case,  viz.. 
that  "the  temperature  of  the  body  on  which  it  was  deposited,  should 
be  considerably  lower  than  the  surrounding  air;"-the  Lnperature  of 
the  air  and  ship  having  remained  the  same  for  several  days  at  about 
78      all  objects,  hammock-cloths,  spars,  sails,  and  rigging,  so  far  as 
could  be  ascertained,  showed  the  same.     And  at  the  time  when  the 
dew  was  observed  to  be  most  copious,  we  had  a  fine  breeze.     It  has 
generally  been  supposed  that  dew  never  falls  off  soundings.     This  at 
least  ,s  an  old  saying  among  seamen :  but  our  observations  are  at 
variance  with  this  notion ;  for,  as  far  as  every  indication  went,  both  bv 
sounding  and  blue  water,  we  certainly  had  no  bottom. 

The  supposed  position  of  the  Triton  Shoal  was  now  passed  over 
and  examined  carefully  in  the  same  manner  as  heretofore  described 
ounding  at  the  same  time  with  two  and  three  hundred  fathoms  of 
I-       No  hmg  of  the  kind  was  perceived,  nor  was  there  any  indication 


88 


PASSAGE    FROM    MADEIRA 


We  next  sailed  for  a  vigia  laid  down  on  the  chart. 

On  the  7th  November  at  noon  we  were  in  longitude  18°  20'  W., 
and  latitude  3°  30'  N.  Here  we  first  experienced  the  influence  of  the 
equatorial  current,  and  found  it  setting  west  by  north  at  the  rate  of 
half  a  mile  per  hour.  This  vigia  was  not  seen.  I  then  stood  for 
Bou vet's  Sandy  Isle,  or  its  reported  position.  We  saw  nothing  of  it 
whatever.  I  was  very  desirous  of  continuing  my  search  farther  to  the 
west,  from  the  report  I  had  seen  of  various  vessels  having  experienced 
shocks  of  earthquakes,  and  the  belief  having  been  entertained  that 
shoals  might  have  been  formed  by  them.  The  equatorial  current 
having  been  felt,  I  was  aware  that  in  getting  farther  to  the  west,  I 
should  lose  the  opportunity  of  examining  the  locality  where  that 
distinguished  navigator.  Admiral  Krusenstern,  supposed  he  saw  a 
volcano.  I  therefore  gave  up  proceeding  farther  to  the  westward  in 
this  latitude,  and  hauled  up  for  its  position. 

It  was  now  the  9th  of  November ;  we  had  delightful  weather ;  and 
moderate  breezes  from  the  south  and  east. 

An  amusing  circumstance  occurred  this  night.  In  our  course  we 
passed  very  near  a  large  sail,  which  from  the  night  being  dark,  the 
officer  of  the  deck  of  the  Porpoise  mistook  for  the  Vincennes,  although 
sailing  on  a  differer.t  course.  He  immediately,  agreeably  to  his  orders, 
followed  the  vessel,  and  continued  after  her  until  morning,  when,  to 
his  surprise,  he  discovered  that  it  was  a  large  Dutch  ship.  Fortu- 
nately, I  had  perceived  the  ship  pass,  and  conjectured,  when  we  found 
the  Porpoise  was  not  in  sight  at  daylight,  the  nature  of  the  mistake.  I 
therefore  retraced  my  steps,  and  in  an  hour  or  two  we  again  came  in 
sight  of  her,  then  tacked  and  proceeded  on  our  course.  On  the  next 
day,  the  time  being  very  favourable,  we  hove-to,  to  get  a  deep-sea 
sounding  with  the  wire  line,  and  ran  out  one  thousand  six  hundred 
fathoms  of  it.  On  reeling  it  up,  the  wire  parted,  and  we  lost  nine 
hundred  and  sixty  fathoms  of  line,  with  our  sounding  apparatus, 
including  one  of  Six's  self-registering  thermometers.  The  wire  was 
badly  prepared  and  ill  adapted  to  the  purpose. 

On  the  11th  we  found  ourselves  near  the  location  of  Krusenstern's 
supposed  shoal,  ran  over  the  position  in  parallel  lines,  and  satisfied 
ourselves  of  its  non-existence. 

Having  now  examined  all  the  localities  which  were  designated  in 
my  instructions,  I  made  all  sail  for  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

We  now  found  ourselves  in  the  equatorial  current,  setting  us  west 
twenty-five  miles  in  twenty-four  hours. 

On  the  nights  of  the  Uth,  12th,  and  13th,  we  kept  a  watch  for  the 
periodical  showers  of  stars.     About  thirty  were  seen  in  the  mid-watch 


TO    RIO   JANEIRO. 


39 


1 
1 


of  the  13th,  proceeding  from  the  Pleiades,  and  shooting  in  a  northerly 
direction.  Our  position  was  in  latitude  6°  15'  8.,  and  longitude  24° 
25'  W.  The  Peacock,  whose  situation  was  about  forty  miles  to  the 
westward  of  us  at  the  time,  saw  a  number  shooting  from  the  constel- 
lations Orion  and  Leo.  The  equatorial  current  was  now  strongest, 
setting  thirty  miles  in  a  day  to  the  westward  ;  the  breeze  had  become 
very  steady  and  strong ;  the  upper  current  was  found  to  correspond 
with  the  direction  of  the  lower.  Every  day  the  wind  was  observed 
to  freshen  as  the  sun  was  coming  to  the  meridian,  and  continued  so 
until  the  afternoon,  when  it  died  away  again,  freshening  after  dark, 
and  continuing  until  near  daylight. 

On  the  16th  of  November  we  passed  the  magnetic  equator  in  latitude 
13°  30'  S.,  longitude  3(P  18'  W.  The  variation  was  found  by  careful 
observations  to  be  10°  30'  W.  We  continued  to  pursue  our  course 
rapidly,  experiencing  the  current  setting  more  to  the  southward,  and 
upwards  of  twenty  miles  a  day. 

On  the  22d  we  made  Cape  Frio ;  here  we  fell  in  with  and  boarded 
the  ship  Louisiana,  in  fifty  days  from  New  York,  and  were  much 
gratified  by  getting  letters  and  papers. 

The  progressive  temperature  on  the  passage  from  the  Cape  de  Verde 
Islands  to  Rio,  was  as  follows :  it  rose  until  it  reached  its  maximum 
in  9°  24'  N.,  water  83-5",  whilst  the  air  was  at  81-6° ;  from  thence 
to  striking  soundings,  it  decreased  to  75",  and  on  soundings  69°. 

The  soundings  obtained  off  the  cape  were  in  fifty  fathoms,  ouze  and 
shells,  the  water  changing  its  colour  to  a  deep  green,  and  as  we 
approached  the  harbour,  to  a  dark  olive.  On  the  afteinoon  of  the  23d 
ofNovember,  we  took  a  light  wind  from  the  southeast,  and  with  all 
sail  set  stood  in  for  the  magnificent  harbour  of  Rio  Janeiro.  Our 
attention  was  drawn  first  to  the  high,  fantastic,  and  abrupt  peaks  of 
Gavia,  the  Sugar  Loaf,  and  Corcovado,  on  our  left ;  whilst  on  our 
right,  we  had  the  bold  point  of  Santa  Cruz ;  then  before  us  the  city  of 
San  Sebastian,  and  the  towns  of  San  Domingo,  with  Praya  Grande 
opposite,  and  the  islands  and  fleet  that  lay  between  them  decking  this 
beautiful  expanse  of  water.  These  objects,  with  the  pinnacles  of  the 
Organ  Mountains  for  a  background,  form  such  a  scene  that  it  would 
be  diflicult  to  point  out  in  what  manner  it  could  be  improved.  The 
life  and  stir  created  by  the  number  of  vessels,  boats,  and  steamers  of 
various  forms  and  of  all  sizes  passing  to  and  fro,  give  great  animation 
to  the  whole. 

The  mountains  present  a  very  peculiar  appearance.  Their  tops  and 
sides  have  a  rounded  or  worn  surface,  destitute  of  verdure,  with  the 
exception   of  here   and  there  a  yellowish  patch,  produced  by  the 


40 


PASSAGE    FROM    MADEIRA 


Tillandsias,  which  in  places  cover  the  rocks.  Tlie  abruptness  of  the 
Sugar  Loaf  Mountain,  and  those  immediately  behind  Santa  Cruz, 
strikes  the  spectator  very  forcibly. 

The  shipping  do  not  form  as  in  other  places  a  dense  forest  of  masts. 
There  being  no  wharves,  they  are  obliged  to  lie  at  anchor,  exhibiting 
their  proportions  and  symmetry  to  great  advantage.  They  are  usually 
seen  grouped  together,  with  their  different  flags  flying,  forming  a 
picture  that  a  painter  would  delight  in. 

As  we  proceeded  up  the  harbour,  our  own  flag  was  seen  to  wave 
over  that  magnificent  specimen  of  naval  architecture,  the  Indepen- 
dence ;  and  as  we  passed  her,  our  bosoms  beat  to  the  tune  of  Hail 
Columbia,  played  by  the  band. 

There  is  a  feeling  of  security  on  entering  the  harbour  of  Rio,  that 
I  have  seldom  experienced  elsewhere,  not  even  in  our  own  waters. 
The  mountains  seem  as  it  were  to  afford  complete  protection  from  the 
winds  and  ocean.  We  anchored  near  Enxados  or  Hospital  Island, 
and  found  the  Peacock  had  arrived  here  three  days  before  us,  and 
that  she  was  proceeding  with  her  repairs  rapidly.  The  vessels  being 
altogether  unfit  for  the  southern  cruise,  it  became  necessary  to  effect 
thr>  requisite  repairs  as  speedily  as  possible.  While  I  could  not  but 
deprecate  the  losa  of  time  and  the  shortening  of  the  season  for  our 
southern  operations,  I  felt  it  an  imperative  duty  that  I  owed  to  those 
who  were  engaged  with  me  on  this  service,  not  to  suffer  them  to  go 
among  the  many  dangers  of  cur  southern  cruise  badly  provided  with 
the  means  to  secure  them  against  ordinary  accidents,  and  to  encounter 
the  weather  we  must  necessarily  anticipate. 

On  our  arrival  I  was  told  it  was  the  beginning  of  the  hot  season, 
and  that  rams  usually  prevailed  during  the  coming  months.  This  was 
unpleasant  news,  particularly  as  I  was  desirous,  whilst  making  the 
necessary  repairs  on  the  vessels,  to  complete  a  set  of  astronomical 
observations,  and  to  perform  a  series  of  experiments  with  the  pendu- 
lums, &c.  This  information,  however,  I  did  not  find  to  be  correct, 
and  from  the  examination  of  the  meteorological  tables  (see  Appendix 
XVII.)  obligingly  furnished  me  by  John  Gardner,  Esq.,  an  American 
gentleman  residing  at  Rio,  I  am  not  disposed  to  credit  this  common 
saymg.  It  therein  appears  that  rain  falls  as  often  in  other  months  as  in 
December,  and  my  experience  during  the  time  of  our  stay  corresponds 
with  these  tables.  The  first  fortnight  we  had  occasional  rains,  but 
before  we  left  the  harbour  our  parties  reported  that  the  country  was 
suffering  from  drought. 

Mr.  Gardjier  has  also  obligingly  favoured  me  with  a  table   (see 
Appendix  XVIII.)  showing  the  monthly  average  of  passages  from  the 


TO    RIO    JANEIRO, 


41 


United  States  to  Rio  during  eight  years,  from  1834  to  1841.  The 
shortest  passage  occurred  in  the  year  1835,  and  the  longest  in  1840. 
The  former  by  a  very  fast  vessel  in  twenty-nine  days ;  the  latter  by  an 
ordinary  merchant-ship  in  ninety  days.  The  Relief,  our  store-ship, 
had  one  hundred  days  in  1838!  but  this  includes  touching  three  days 
at  the  Cape  de  Verdes. 

It  will  be  seen  that  the  average  monthly  passage  does  not  vary  but 
a  few  days  throughout  the  whole  eight  years.     The  winter  months 
are  the  most  favourable,  in  consequence  of  the  strong  westerly  winds 
that  prevail  in  the  North  Atlantic  at  that  season,  and  also  to  the  preva 
lence  of  the  northeast  monsoons  on  the  coast  of  Brazil. 

Our  observations  would  point  out  the  necessity  of  dull-sailing  vessels 
not  crossing  the  equator  to  the  westward  of  20°  of  west  longitude, 
where  the  equatorial  current  begins  to  be  felt;  but  vessels  that  sail 
well,  may  cross  it  as  far  as  26°  W.,  particularly  when  the  northeast 
monsoons  prevail  in  their  full  strength,  and  very  much  shorten  their 
passage  by  such  a  course. 

During  the  repairs,  I  endeavoured  to  employ  my  time  and  that  of 
the  officers  and  scientific  gentlemen  in  as  advantageous  a  manner  as 
possible.  We  are  indebted  to  the  Hon.  William  Hunter,  our  charge 
d'affaires,  and  our  consul,  William  Slacum,  Esq.,  for  many  kindnesses 
and  attentions  received  during  our  stay.  Through  their  intercession,  I 
obtamed  the  use  of  the  small  island  of  Enxados,  which  was  well 
adapted  to  our  purposes.  The  instruments  and  stores  were  allowed  to 
be  landed  there  free  of  inspection,  and  every  assistance  we  could  desire 
was  afforded  us  by  the  government  and  its  officers.  How  different  a 
policy  and  treatment  from  that  pursued  towards  Captain  Cook  some 
seventy  years  before,  under  an  ignorant  and  jealous  colonial  ffovern- 
ment ! 


-IVATERINO  PtACB,  PORTO  PRAVA. 


VOL.    I 


D8 


CIT 
Till 

au 

VE( 

Tin 

Till 
TRI 
8UR 


CHAPTER  III. 


CONTENTS. 

CITV  OF  8AN  SEBASTIAN-ITS  IMPROVEMENT-ITS  PRESENT  CONDlTION-CHURCIfES- 
THE  MISERICOftDIA- FUNERALS-EMPEROR'S  BIRTHDAV-AaUEDUCT8-(iE0U)GI(;AL 
CHARACTER  OP  THE  COUNTRY -PUBLIC  GARDEN -MUSEUM-BAY  AND  HARBOUK- 
VEGETATIOM  -  BOTANIC  GARDEN  -  SLAVE  POPULATION  -COFFEE  CARRIERS  -  UK 
SEAIICIIES  INTO  THE  NATIONS  OP  AFRICA-TREATMENT  OP  SLAVES-STREETS  OP 
THE  CITY-SOCIETY-WHITE-JACKET  BALL-ARRIVAL  OP  THE  RELIEF-ASCENT  OP 
THE  SUGAR  LOAF  -  SURVEYS-DEFECTS  IN  THE  EaUIPMENT  OP  THE  SaUADRON- 
TRIP  TO  THE  ORGAN  MOUNTAINS- JAUNT  TO  PIEDADE -CONCLUSION  OF  THE 
SURVEYS  AND  OBSERVATIONS-ASCENT  OP  THE  CORCOVADO. 


m 


'k: 


CHAPTER  III. 


RIO   JANEIRO. 


1838. 


The  city  of  San  Sebastian,  better  known  as  Rio  de  Janeiro,  has 
been  often  described.  At  the  time  of  our  visit  a  great  change 
appeared  to  have  taken  place  within  a  few  years,  as  well  in  its 
outward  appearance  as  in  its  government  and  institutions,  thus  giv- 
ing to  the  whole  a  different  aspect  from  that  it  formerly  wore.  Under 
its  former  monarch,  Don  Pedro  the  First,  it  had  all  the  aspect  of  a 
court  residence ;  now  it  is  the  very  reverse.  I  shall,  therefore,  give 
my  own  impressions,  and  sketch  a  picture  of  its  state  as  we  found  it 
in  the  latter  part  of  the  year  1838. 

Republican  forms,  habits,  and  customs,  are  gradually  creeping  in 
under  its  new  and  reformed  constitution.  It  is  not  to  be  denied  that 
the  people  now  appear  to  be  much  better  off  than  formerly,  and  more 
at  liberty  to  carry  on  their  lawful  pursuits.  Commerce,  and  inter- 
course with  foreigners  are  every  day  making  liberal  advances. 
Every  one,  on  his  first  landing  at  Rio,  will  be  struck  with  the 
indiscriminate  mingling  of  all  classes,  in  every  place,  all  appearing 
on  terms  of  the  utmost  equality ; — officers,  soldiers,  and  priests,  both 
black  and  white,  mixing  and  performing  their  respective  duties, 
without  regard  to  colour  or  appearance.  The  only  distinction  seems 
to  be  that  of  freedom  and  slavery.  There  are  many  wealthy  free 
blacks,  highly  respectable,  who  amalgamate  with  the  white  families, 
and  are  apparently  received  on  a  footing  of  perfect  equality.  The 
police,  too,  consisting  of  a  national  guard,  has  taken  away  those  forms 
of  military  parade  that  formerly  existed.  An  air  of  independence  is 
creeping  in  even  among  the  working-classes.  Any  little  service  that 
is  required,  and  for  which  they  are  well  paid,  they  appear  to  consider 
as  a  favour  done  you.    The  mechanical  arts  are  at  least  half  a  century 


(4S\ 


46 


'«  I  <►    J  A  N  KI  K  O. 


ticMiiic'  ili()sc<iCoiir  own  roiinliy.  'I'lio  clmn'lu's,  which  iir«'  miinoroiis. 
arc  falling  iiilu  (Icniv,  wliich  jrivcs  a  dilapidated  look  to  tho  city;  its 
religions  cciciiioni'  s  an^  (hs|H'iis(;<l  with,  and  to  crown  all,  the  stops  of 
the  churches  are  made  a  niark<M-plae(?  lor  the  sub  of  simep,  pii^eons. 
Iriiit,  &c.  To  jiidj^i^  from  Mii]iearances,  and  the  attendance  on  its 
services,  there  exists  little  relii^'ions  feelinj,'  towards  tho  Roman  ChMrch. 
It  is  true,  the  sam(^  constant  rin>,'in,j^  of  hells  occurs  that  is  to  he  heard 
in  all  Catholic  countries,  and  other  outward  signs  are  still  Kei>t  up;  hut 
the  priesthood  are  not  regunhul  with  such  awe  as  they  formerly  wv.w. 
and  society  nchmiis  to  l«i  hreakint,'  throu<:;h  tho  trammels  that  have  so 
louf^  (Mislaved  tlu;  temale  portion  of  ''\.  Ueliirion  is  a  m«M(i  name 
amonj^  the  youth  of  I^ra/.ij.  The  ag»>d  are  still  ohservant  of  its  cere- 
monies,  hut  little  or  no  att(!ntion  is  paid  to  the  Sahhath.  The  stores 
ilo  husiness.  and  the  workshops  are  open  tho  same  as  on  other  days, 
A  few  are  sein  going  to  worship  in  tlu;  morning  of  that  day,  hut  a 
greater  nund)er  attend  tho  l)illiard-tahles  in  the  afternoon,  and  the 
theatres  at  night.  There  is  an  Eiiiseopal  church,  and  a  missionary 
of  the  Methodist  i)ersuasion  from  tlio  United  States  resident  here. 

We  saw  Hio  de  .Tarn  irt)  under  its  most  favourahle  aspect,  that  of 
the  holidays,  when  the  church  had  put  on  all  her  hnery  and  decora- 
tions, and  every  one.  slave  as  well  as  master,  seemed  intent  upon 
enjoying  himself  Tlu>  Christmas  week  or  holidays  give  a  respite 
from  all  lahour,  and  various  mc  the  amusements.  The  ehin-chos 
ar(>  decked,  and  the  services  extraordinary. 

Tlu^  neglect  of  the  puhlie  w  alks  and  roads  shows  a  want  of  proper 
attention,  and  strikes  the  visiter  as  dillerent  from  the  usual  order  of 
things  around  a  court.  So  far  as  cleanliness  goes,  IJio,  I  should 
think,  is  not  much  improved.  It  has  every  advantag(«  to  make  it 
a  clean  city,  but  the  inclination  appears  to  he  wanting.  Neither  do  I 
intend  to  assert  that  its  style  of  building  is  changed.  Although  thc^ 
government  is  doing  little,  one  sees  the  spirit  of  enterprise  among 
the  citi/ens.  IMany  private  dwellings  are  b<  hig  erected,  and  1  uiider- 
slood  that  many  other  in\provements  were  taking  place. 

The  houses  of  tho  city  are  strongly  built  of  stone,  cemented  together 
with  clay;  this  is  used  in  eonseiiuence  of  the  scarcity  of  lime,  whieli 
is  only  obtained  by  burning  shells  fisiied  up  from  the  bay.  The  houses 
aiv  {>lastered  on  the  outside,  and  have  a  ])relty  ajipeivvaiice  and  colour. 
The  tloors,  beams,  and  roofs,  are  made  of  the  hard  wood  of  the  coun- 
try, of  great  si/e  an<l  strength,  which  are  indeed  neeessarv  from  the 
great  tile  roof  they  have  to  bear.  Very  few  of  the  houses  have  vards. 
cellars,  or  gardens:  v  onscciuently  the  dwellers  are  still  greatly  incom- 
n\oded  from  the  want  of  water-closets,  •letrimental  both  to  health  and 


«  I  (»    .1  A  N  i:  I  K  O. 


comfort,  and  not  only  an  annoyancic  and 


47 


innonvenionco  to 
anger  in  passing 


the 


tants  thcmsolvos,  but  is  shared  by  the  strange  ^  '"  '^^'" 

streets. 

Wo  of  course  saw  all  that  was  to  be  seen  in  Rio.     The  churches 
.•la.med  our  hrst  attention.     They  are  richly  decorated  in  the  interior, 
with  n.ass.ve  gold  and  silv.M-  ornaments,  and  at  this  time  glitterinJ 
with  gems  and  precious  stones.     On  some  of  the  altars  of  the  saints  ft 
IS  the  pract.cc  to  suspend  the  diseased  parts  of  the  body  in  wax,  in 
'""".""■  "'J,'"  '="7  ^ "'^^^l  •••  •'■•H'o  been  effected  by  the  saints'  inter- 
cession.    The  s.ght  of  tliose  is  truly  disgusting,  although  they  are  flxr 
irom  being  well  executed.     T'.e  chapel  of  St.  Cecilia  was  visited  on 
1.0  san.ts  .lay,  ar.th  Noven.ber.     The  music  was  very  Hne.  from  a 
large  cho.r,  cons.stu.g,  besi.les  the  organ,  of  flutes,  hautboys,  horns, 
a.ul  basses  of  all  km.Is.  with  about  ten  vocalists,  two  of  whon.  were 
.M.nuchs,  about  seventy  years  of  age.     The  music  consisted  of  selec- 
tions from  the  best  masters.     The  performers  were  about  seventy  in 
number.     The  steps  of  the  church  and  the  street  were  strewed  on  this 
occasion  with  orange-leaves.     A    number  of  females    present   w.-re 
seated  on  the  floor  of  the  church,  dressed  in  black,  with  white  luce 
shawls,  and  wreaths  of  flowers  round   their  heads.     Fireworks,  as 
usual   m  siu^h  ceremonies,  were  set  ofl*  in  front  of  the  church  at  the 
hagmmng  and  end  of  the  service. 

The  Misericordia  has  now  become  much  out  of  repair,  and  I 
n.lorstood  ha.l  fallen  off  in  its  charitable  usefulness,  but  it  still  shows 
the  remains  ot  its  former  splendour.  Few  monks  were  seen  about, 
and  dead  bodies  were  laid  out  in  the  Green  House.  At  the  tim.  we 
visited  It  there  were  eight,  the  greater  part  of  whom  were  negroes.  A 
monk  was  seen  saying  a  hasty  prayer  over  the  bodies,  which  were  at 
o"oe  thrown  into  the  trench,  when  they  were  sprinkled  with  lime, 
Pla-Miig  one  layer  over  the  other,  until  the  hole,  about  six  feet  square 
an.l  as  many  deep,  is  filled  or  level  with  the  surface.  After  one  of  the 
trenches  is  filled,  another  is  dug  by  the  side  of  it.  The  crowded  state  of 
lus  place  ol  interment  i.  but  too  evident  from  the  number  of  skulls  and 
hnnes  lying  about,  some  still  with  portions  of  flesh  adhering  to  them. 

On  the  same  evening,  whilst  this  scene  was  still  fresh  in  our  minds, 
and  as  if  in  strong  contrast  with  it,  we  met  the  funeral  of  a  person  of 
.stinction.  A  blacl.  hearse,  ornamented  with  black  plumes,  w^as 
;i  awn  by  mules.  The  driver  ha.l  a  cocked-hat  and  black  plume, 
ho  .-.oflm  was  covered  with  a  s.^arlet  pall  ornamented  with  silver. 
About  twenty  altnr-boys,  in  their  church  dress,  preceded  the  hearse. 
"Inch  was  surrounded  by  about  the  same  number  of  black  servants. 


4S 


RIO   JANEIRO. 


in  livery,  all  carrying  lighted  wax  candles.  The  body,  on  arriving  at 
the  Imperial  Chapel,  was  removed  into  it,  and  all  who  entered  the 
chapel  were  furnished  with  lighted  tapers.  Mass  and  the  funeral 
service  were  performed  by  the  priest,  and  some  delightful  music  by  a 
full  choir  The  body  was  then  taken  into  the  Campo  Santo,  a  kind  of 
amphitheatre,  with  high  walls,  a  short  distance  from  the  church. 
About  a  thousand  vaults  are  built  in  the  wall.  One  of  them  was 
opened,  the  body  interred,  and  the  wall  built  up  again.  The  centre  of 
this  sepulchre  is  laid  out  in  a  flower-garden,  and  is  about  one  hundred 
feet  in  diameter. 

December  2d  was  the  birthday  of  the  Emperor,  Don  Pedro  the 
Second,  who  then  was  thirteen  years  old.  It  was  celebrated  with  all 
due  pomp.  Great  preparations  had  been  making  for  many  days.  He 
was  to  pass  into  the  city  from  St.  Christoval,  his  usual  residence,  in 
procession,  and  to  hold  a  levee  at  the  city  palace.  The  streets  were 
strewn  with  orange  and  other  leaves,  a  triumphal  arch  erected,  &c. 
But  a  description  of  his  progress  will  give  a  better  idea  of  it. 

Having  left  St.  Christoval,  he  entered  the  city  about  noon,  preceded 
by  a  large  troop  of  horse.  He  rode  with  his  sisters,  one  sixteen,  the 
other  fourteen  years  of  age,  in  a  splendid  English  carriage,  with 
bronze  and  gold  mountings,  drawn  by  eight  cream-coloured  horses, 
gaily  caparisoned,  with  silver-mounted  harness,  the  servants  in  rich 
liveries.  Three  carriages,  drawn  by  six  horses  each,  followed,  con- 
taining officers  of  state  and  his  household,  the  whole  surrounded  by 
the  Einperor's  guards,  and  above  five  thousand  military  following. 
Great  crowds  of  people  had  assembled  to  witness  this  parade.  As  the 
carriages  passed  under  the  balconies,  garlands  of  flowers  were  thrown 
upon  them.  They  entered  the  principal  street  through  a  triumphal 
arch,  beautifully  decorated  with  natural  flowers,  on  which  were  placed 
two  little  boys,  dressed  in  blue  and  pink,  with  wings  to  represent 
angels,  each  holding  a  basket  of  flowers,  which  they  threw  on  the 
young  monarch  as  he  passed.  The  houses  in  the  streets  through 
which  the  procession  moved,  were  hung  with  satin  damask  draperies 
of  the  richest  tints.  These  I  understand  are  kept  expressly  for  such 
occasions.  At  short  intervals  national  flags  were  suspended  across 
the  streets.  On  the  custom-house  the  flags  of  every  nation  were  seen, 
in  the  centre  of  which  was  the  Brazilian,  and  next  to  it  the  "  star- 
spangled  banner."  The  Emperor  moved  on,  receiving  the  same 
marks  of  aflection  from  his  subjects  until  he  reached  the  great  square 
and  palace,  where  he  alighted.  The  troops  forming  around  the  square 
soon  came  to  order,  and  a  general  pause  ensued,  until  the  firing  of  the 


n  arriving  at 

entered  the 

the  funeral 

I  music  by  a 

to,  a  kind  of 

the   church. 

if  them  was 

rhe  centre  of 

one  hundred 

n  Pedro  the 
ited  with  all 
y  days.  He 
residence,  in 
streets  were 
erected,  &c. 
fit. 

on,  preceded 
3  sixteen,  the 
irriage,  with 
lured  horses, 
'ants  in  rich 
)llowed,  con- 
irrounded  by 
ly  following, 
ade.  As  the 
were  thrown 
a  triumphal 
were  placed 
to  represent 
hrew  on  the 
ccts  through 
isk  draperies 
:ssly  for  such 
Jnded  across 
in  were  seen, 
it  the  "  slar- 
ig  the  same 
great  square 
id  the  square 
firing  of  the 


RIO    JANEIRO.  ,» 

feu  dejoie  began,  one  of  the  most  deafening  I  ever  heard.    He  finishea 
hispubhc  exhibition  by  showing  himself  to  the  multitude  below,  from 
the  balconies  of  the  city  palace,  and  w^is  received  with  many  ./«;.. 

1      \  r     .      u"  !""""'  ^^''"^  '^'  ^«^-  ^''  Walsh  has  so  well 
described,  and  which   closely  resembled  the   one  at  which  he  was 
present,  with  this  difference,  that  this  was  much  more  of  a  farce,  Tn 
consequence  of  the  boyhood  of  the  Emperor.     Nothing  can  be  m^  e 
nd.culous   than  to   see  all  the  dignitaries,  and  old  men,  the  mitred 
bishop,  the  sage  diplomatist,  and  the  veteran  soldier,  ush;red  into  he 
presence,  and  out  again,  without  saying  a  word,  or  turning  their  backl 
on  the  young  monarch.     Mr.  Walsh  has,  however,  said  nothing  abou 
the  scene  in  the  ante-room;  to  me  it  was  the  most  ridiculous  of  all. 
The  arranging  the  order  of  entrance  to  the  presence,  with  due  form 
and  etiquette;  the  examination  by  each  diplomatist,  that  he  has  h^ 
due  order  o    precedence;  their  anxiety  to  gather  their  suites  around 
them, not  unhke  a  hen  wi*h  her  chickens,  to  make  the  fullest  show;  ali 
prepares  one  for  the  ridiculous  scene  that  is  to  follow.     The  olde 
2!!Zr'"''   ^'"^^^   '''''   '''   '^^''     ^^   -ght  the   city  wa: 

wifht '  the' h  Tf  '"'''"'  ""'^  '"'^^^''-    ^^"^^"^^«  '^-^  been  finished 
TeuZ   M      f  ^T'  ''^•'-'^  '^""S  it  from  the  Corcovado  and 

Tejuca  Mountains,  a  distance  of  six  or  seven  miles.  There  are  a 
number  of  public  fountains  in  diflerent  parts  of  the  city.  All  the  wlJ 
for  the  supp  y  of  families  is  transported  by  slaves,  who  are  const  ^^ 
seen  about  these  fountains.  Until  the  amount  of  toil  and  time  c  u^  d 
•s  seen,  little  idea  can  be  formed  of  the  saving  of  labour  that  hyd  a  ts 
a  d  pjpes  for  the  supply  of  this  necessary  article,  effect.  "^Thesc 
fountams  have  numerous  jets,  and  some  have  pretty  edifices  over  them. 
D  lung  the  day  there  are  soldon.  less  than  fifty  to  one  hundred,  bo 

wl     hh  '  "''""""■'"  ---"d  them,  filling  their  jars  with 

which  they  are  seen  moving  about  poised  on  their  heads.     Near  the 

arge  ountain  called  Hafariz.  i„  the  square  of  Santa  Anna,  are  two 
large  basins,  about  fifty  feet  long  and  twenty-five  wide.  These  are 
commonly  filled  with  about  two  hundred  negro  women,  w  o  da  L 

-emble  to  wash.     Numbers  of  them  are  haff  naked,  st  ndin.  up    > 

stone  wall,  to  the  great  destruction  of  buttons,  &c. 

Few  articles  are  transported  in  any  other  way  than  bv  slaves,  and 
^  s  extremely  rare  to  see  a  cart  drawn  by  any  beas't  of  bu  den. 
Antique-looking   carriages  and  two-wheeled   calescas   are  geneiJIi: 

It  is  i.npossible  to  remain  long  at  Rio  witl;out  noticinij  the  geolc 

VOL.   1.  .,  *  _  3 


50 


RIO    JANEIRO. 


gical  structure  of  the  country.  It  is  all  granitic,  and  occurs  in  vast 
blocks.  Dr.  Pickering  and  Mr.  Brackenridge,  who  visited  the  Organ 
Mountains,  reported  that  the  country  was  of  the  same  general  cha- 
racter, but  on  a  much  grander  scale. 

The  garden  at  the  water  side  is  delightfully  situated.  From  this 
point  the  bay  offers  amusement  at  all  hours.  I  should  think  the  people 
of  Rio  might  be  classed  among  the  indolent,  and  that  they  are  not 
fond  of  walkmg ;  for  the  garden  appears  to  be  but  little  frequented. 

The  museuiU  is  open  twice  a  week :  it  is  quite  creditable  to  the 
city,  and  well  worth  seeing.  It  appears  to  attract  more  attention  from 
the  inhabitants  of  Rio  than  I  should  have  been  led  to  expect.  It  is 
extremely  rich  in  its  native  collections,  and  is  well  taken  care  of. 

The  theatres,  of  which  there  are  three,  are  seldom  open  on  week 
days,  but  always  on  Sunday. 

The  sail  up  the  bay  is  beautiful.  The  surrounding  picturesque 
peaks,  varying  their  outline  with  every  change  of  position,  give  it 
great  variety,  and  the  objects  are  so  interesting  that  one  is  never  tired. 
The  many  islets  that  stud  this  bay  add  greatly  to  its  beauty,  and  excite 
interest,  covered  as  they  are  with  tribes  of  tropical  plants,  all  new  to 
the  eye.  Among  these  are  seen  tuffs  of  Bromelias  and  Cactus,  while 
Orchideae  plants  were  abundant  on  the  rocks  and  trees. 

This  bay  is  usually  covered  with  small  boats,  passing  to  and  fro, 
felucca  rigged,  without  decks,  and  generally  about  twelve  tons  burden. 
These  boats  are  rowed  by  blacks,  who  are  seen  toiling  at  their  task. 
The  oars  are  large,  the  men  row  in  a  standing  posture,  and  thus  add 
the  weight  of  their  bodies  to  their  strength.  At  times,  the  bay  seems 
alive  with  the  number  of  these  vessels,  and  of  small  canoes,  each 
made  of  a  single  trunk,  which  are  used  in  fishing.  Many  of  these 
vessels  are  also  engaged  in  the  coasting  trade.  Foreigners  are  usually 
employed  to  take  charge  of  tho  latter,  which  sail  under  the  Brazilian 
flag.  Steamers  are  beginning  to  be  used.  One  plies  between  Rio  and 
Santos,  and  during  ouv  stay,  another  left  the  harbour  for  Montevideo. 
The  greater  part  of  the  vessels  in  the  bay  are  under  foreign  flags,  and 
I  was  much  surprised  to  observe  how  few  comparatively  are  English, 
and  how  many  are  from  the  north  of  Europe. 

The  harbour  of  Rio  may  be  considered  as  not  extending  farther 
than  Enxados  Island,  above  which  icw  vessels  lie.  The  front  of  the 
city  is  not  well  adapted  for  wharves,  and  non(3  consequently  exist. 
There  are  some  stairs;  but  they  are  not  well  protected  from  the  sea, 
which  at  times  renders  landing  almost  impossible. 

The  environs  of  the  city  were  visited  by  many  of  our  naturalists 
and  officers,  and  although  this  ground  has  been  so  often  gone  over  by 


curs  in  vast 
id  the  Organ 
general  cha- 

From  this 
ik  the  people 
they  are  not 
3quented. 
itable  to  the 
ttention  from 
xpect.  It  is 
care  of. 
)en  on  week 

picturesque 
ition,  give  it 
5  never  tired, 
y,  and  excite 
s,  all  new^  to 
[lactus,  while 

;  to  and  fro, 

tons  burden. 

at  their  task. 

and  thus  add 

le  bay  seems 

3anoes,  each 

any  of  these 

s  are  usually 

the  Brazilian 

reen  Rio  and 

Montevideo. 

gn  flags,  and 

are  English, 

iding  farther 

front  of  the 

|uently  exist. 

from  the  sea, 

ir  naturalists 
gone  over  by 


RIO    JANEIRO.  gj 

Others,  it  was  yet  found  to  offer  many  objects  of  interest,  and  we 
believe  of  novelty,  particularly  in  the  waters  of  this  bay. 

In  Rio,  the  vegetation  seems  to  fix  the  attention  above  all  other 
thmgs,  especially  of  those  sifn^ted  as  we  were  in  the  harbour,  havin- 
It  continually  before  one's  eyes;  and  I  can  well  understand  the  dcpri- 
vation  Sir  Joseph  Banks  and  Dr.  Solander  must  have  experienced  in 
their  visit.  Our  naturalists  remarked  that  although  the  production  «■ 
are  still  American  in  character,  the  same  families  prevailincr,  often  the 
same  genera,  yet  they  were  entirely  distinct  in  species  from  those 
of  other  parts  of  the  continent.  As  an  example  the  Furcrcca  takes 
the  place  of  the  Mexican  Agaves.  The  Furcroea  is  a  peculiar  plant, 
and  attracts  attention  by  its  bayonet-shaped  leaves,  branching  up  in 
every  direction;  some  of  these  are  ten  or  twelve  feot  in  hei-rlit  and  ten 
inches  in  diameter.  This  plant,  with  the  well-known  Cecropia,  with 
Its  candelabra  branches,  and  the  prevailing  vellow  blossoms  of  the 
trees,  give  a  peculiar  and  lively  character  to  the  landscape  and  woods 
when  compared  with  the  dull  sombre  hue  of  our  own  forests. 

Here,  as  in  all  tropical  climates,  the  truth  of  the  remark  made  by  a 
botamst,  "that  every  thing  grows  into  shrubs  and  trees,"  is  obvious 
Herbaceous  plants  are  rare,  and  annuals  may  be  said  to  be  almost 
wanting.  The  fruit  trees  were  generally  seen  bearing  fruit  and  flowers 
at  the  same  time.  This  was  the  case,  as  observed  by  one  of  our 
party,  even  in  the  cultivated  apple  on  the  Tejuca  Mountains. 

The  vegetation  near  the  coast  diflbrs  considerably  from  that  of  the 
inland  country.  Plants  are  more  dense  and  succulent,  species  and 
tribes  have  little  of  a  local  nature;  yet  particular  kinds  of  palms  and 
bamboos  are  found  in  separate  groups  on  the  top  of  the  Or-mn 
Mountains,  but  this  is  only  a  slight  exception  to  the  general  rule 
which  nature  seems  to  have  adopted  in  the  distribution  of  plants  ovci- 
the  country.  This  character  strikes  the  observer  forcibly  in  the 
Cecropias,  Ca^salpinia  brasiliensis,  and  several  Melastomas,  whicii  are 
rarely  seen  in  pairs. 

The  Botanic  Garden  is  in  a  flat  situation,  backed  by  a  hi^rh  ridc^c 
of  mountainous  land.  In  front,  is  a  lake  of  brackish  water,  which 
lorms  a  considerable  bay,  and  conmiunicates  with  the  sea  bv  a  narrow 
.met.  The  entrance  to  the  garden  has  a  mean  appearance,  and  doc. 
not  correspond  with  the  broad  promenades  within,  which  are  plant.vl 
with  trees  on  each  side.  The  whole  is  laid  out  in  the  old  Dutch 
style;  seats,  arbours,  and  houses  are  cut  out  of  Arbor  vit^^  (Thna 
onentalh).  Terrestrial  Orchidea,  are  cultivated  in  earthen  vases 
placed  in  rows  in  the  herbaceous  ground,  which  appeared  to  have  been 
once  planted  after  the  .Tussieuean.  or  natural  svsfom.  but  is  now  «ome- 


53 


RIO   JANEIRO. 


what  out  of  order.  In  the  centre  of  the  garden  was  a  small  fountain 
near  which  grew  some  fine  specimens  of  the  splendid  Bougainvillea 
bracteata  in  full  flower.  There  is  also  a  fine  collection  of  Orchidea), 
which  are  cultivated  on  decayed  trunks  of  trees.  The  bread-fruit 
trees  {jlrtocurpus  incisa,  and  integrifulia)  succeed  very  well.  There 
were  some  trees  of  both  kinds  forty  feet  high,  and  the  fruit  of  the 
latter  as  large  as  an  ordinary  watermelon.  The  rows  of  trees  along 
the  sides  of  the  walks  were  principally  Apeiba  hispida,  Thcobroma 
cacao,  several  kinds  of  I.auracejE  and  Myrtacete,  with  a  species  of 
Casuarina,  introduced  from  New  South  Wales.  Several  groups  of 
bamboos  had  a  good  effect  among  the  other  trees,  but  their  stems  bore 
evidence  of  a  propensity  to  the  carving  of  names,  as  a  memento  of  the 
distinguished  persons'  visit.  Among  them  I  was  glad  to  see  the 
names  of  many  Europeans,  which  serves  to  prove  that  this  habit  does 
not  exist  among  Americans  alone.  Here  an  attempt  was  made  some 
years  since  to  introduce  the  tea-plant,  with  natives  of  China  to 
cultivate  it.  The  plantation  appeared  to  our  botanical  gentlemen  in  a 
sickly  state. 

The  great  and  distinctive  characteristic  of  Rio  may  be  said  to  be 
its  slaves  and  slavery.  This  evil  continually  presents  itself  to  the 
observer,  and  he  cannot,  if  he  would,  divert  his  attention  from  the 
many  sights  which  keep  it  before  his  mind. 

The  slave  population  is  stated  at  five  times  the  number  of  that  of  the 
whites,  and  notwithstanding  the  existing  danger  of  maritime  capture, 
the  supply  still  seems  equal  to  the  demand.  Although  many  slavers 
are  taken  by  the  English  cruisers,  brought  in  and  tried  by  the  mixed 
commission,  agreeably  to  treaty,  yet  means  are  found  to  introduce  the 
slaves.  Two  slavers  were  lying  in  charge  of  the  English  squadron 
while  we  were  there.  On  board  of  them,  though  quite  small  vessels, 
were  two  and  three  hundred  negroes.  It  is  diflicult  to  imagine  more 
emaciated,  miserable,  and  beastly-looking  creatures,  and  it  is  not  a 
little  surprising  that  they  should  be  kept  thus  confined  by  those  who 
aflect  to  establish  their  freedom  and  ameliorate  their  condition.  These 
vessels  it  is  understood  had  obtained  their  victims  on  the  eastern  coast 
of  Africa. 

Slaves  are  almost  the  only  carriers  of  burdens  in  Rio  Janeiro.  They 
go  almost  naked,  and  are  exceedingly  numerous.  They  ajipcar  to  work 
with  cheerfulness,  and  go  together  in  gangs,  with  a  leader  who  carries 
a  rattle  made  of  tin,  and  filled  whh  stones,  (similar  to  a  child's  lattle.) 
With  this  he  keeps  time,  causing  them  all  to  mo\c  on  a  dog-trot. 
Each  one  joins  in  the  monotonous  chorus,  the  notes  seldom  varvine 
above  a  third  from  the   key.     The  words   they  use  me   frequnntly 


RIO   JANEIRO. 


58 


lull  fountain 
Jougainvillea 
of  Orchidea^, 
3  bread-fruil 
wdl     There 

fruit  of  tlie 
'  trees  along 

Theobroma 
a  species  of 
il  groups  of 
ir  stems  bore 
smento  of  tiie 

to  see  the 
lis  habit  does 
5  made  some 
of  China  to 
;ntlemen  in  a 

)e  said  to  be 
itself  to  the 
on  from  the 

of  that  of  the 
time  capture, 
iiany  slavers 
)y  the  mixed 
introduce  the 
ish  squadron 
mall  vessels, 
Tiagine  more 
i  it  is  not  a 
ly  those  who 
tion.  Tiiese 
eastern  coast 

neiro.  They 
pear  to  work 
•  who  carries 
hild's  iattle.) 
1  a  dog-trot, 
loin  varyine 
0   fro'innntlv 


relative  to  their  own  country;  sometimes  to  what  they  heard  from 
their  master,  as  they  started  with  their  load,  but  the  sound  is  the 
same. 

Ri'pcntcd  several  times.  , 

t±rff 


II  several  limes.  |^       - 


Another. 


Ve     na    ca  -  a  man  -  yan  a     a  Par    a    can  tar  sen    hor      a. 


-^.■J--J- 


■0—0- 


tsji 


-o 


M 


COFFEE-CARRIERS. 


TKe  coffee-carriers  go  along  in  large  gangs  of  twenty  or  thirty, 
singing — 


^^^^^ 


Another. 


::s?: 


-o- 


^LZIiC 


^ 


One  half  take  the  air,  with  one  or  two  keeping  up  a  kind  of  a  hum 
on  the  common  chord,  and  the  remainder  finish  the  bar. 

These  slaves  are  required  by  their  masters  to  obtain  a  certain  sum, 
according  to  their  ability,  say  from  twenty-five  to  fifty  cents  a  day. 


B3 


04 


RIO    JANEIRO. 


and  to  pay  it  every  evening.     The  surplus  belongs  to  themselves.     In 
default  of  not  gaining  the  required  sum,  castigation  is  always  inflicted. 

It  is  said  that  the  liberated  negroes  who  own  slaves  are  particularly 
severe  and  cruel.  The  usual  load  carried  is  about  two  hundred 
pounds  weight. 

Mr.  Hale,  our  philologist,  found  here  a  field  of  some  extent  in  his 
department,  through  the  slave  population;  and  it  aflbrdcd  more 
opportunities  for  its  investigation  than  would  at  first  appear  probable. 
Vast  numbers  of  slaves  have  been,  and  are  still  imported  annually 
into  this  market;  and  as  very  many  of  the  same  nation  or  tribe 
associate  together,  they  retain  their  own  language,  even  after  they- 
have  been  in  the  country  for  some  years.  It  may  be  scon  by  the 
most  cursory  examination  that  they  are  marked  in  such  a  manner  as 
to  serve  to  distinguish  their  different  races.  Some  have  little  of  the 
distinctive  negro  character,  and  others  more  of  it  than  any  human 
beings  we  had  seen.  Mr.  Hale  obtained  from  a  gentleman  of  Rio  tlie 
following  information  respecting  them,  with  their  distinctive  marks ; 
the  accuracy  of  which  we  had  an  opportunity  of  verifying  during 
our  stay.  The  likenesses  made  of  them  by  Mr.  Agate  are  very  cha- 
racteristic. 

The  negroes  of  Brazil  who  have  been  brought  from  North  and 
South  Africa,  are  divided  into  two  distinct  and  very  dissimilar  classes. 
The  natives  of  that  portion  of  the  continent  known  under  the  genera! 
name  of  Upper  Guinea,  include  the  countries  in  the  interior  as  fai 
as  Timbuctoo  and  Bornou,  being  the  whole  of  that  region  lately 
explored  by  the  English  expeditions.  The  slaves  from  this  ijuarler, 
though  of  various  nations  and  languages,  have  yet  a  general  likeness, 
which  stamps  them  as  one  race.  In  Brazil  they  are  known  under  the 
name  of  Minus. 


MINA. 


The  Minas  slaves  are  said  to  be  distinguished  from  others  by  their 


RIO   JANEIRO. 


58 


Bmsolvcs.  In 
vays  inflicted, 
e  particularly 
two  hundred 

extent  in  his 
fTorded  more 
)ear  probable, 
rted  annually 
tion  or  tribe 
en  after  the}  • 
seen  by  the 
a  manner  as 
e  little  of  the 
1  any  human 
m  of  Rio  tlif 
ctive  marks ; 
ifying  durinjr 
are  very  cha- 

n  North  and 
miiar  classes. 
;r  the  genera! 
itcrior  as  fai 
region  latel\- 
this  ijuarter, 
seTdl  likeness, 
vvn  under  the 


bodily  and  mental  qualiti 


hers  by  tiieir 


Thoy  are  generally  above  the  middle 
height,  and  well  formed.  The  forehead  is  high,  and  the  cheek-bones 
prominent;  the  nose  sometimes  straight  and  sometimes  depressed; 
the  lips  not  very  thick ;  teeth  small  and  perpendicularly  set ;  the  hair 
is  woolly,  and  the  colour  an  umber  or  reddish  brown,  approaching 
to  black. 

The  look  and  bearing  of  the  Mina  blacks  are  expressive  of  intel- 
ligence and  dignity,  and  they  betray  little  of  the  levity  usually  ascribed 
to  the  negro  race. 

In  Brazil  they  occupy  the  highest  position  that  slaves  are  allowed 
to  attain,  being  employed  as  confidential  servants,  artisans,  and  small 
tniders.  They  look  down  upon,  and  refuse  to  have  any  connexion 
with,  or  participation  in,  the  employment  of  the  other  negroes.  Many 
of  them  write  and  read  the  Arabic,  and  all  can  repeat  some  sentences 
of  it.  The  greatest  number  of  slaves  who  purchase  their  freedom 
belong  to  this  race. 

There  is  one  singularity  which  seems  to  be  common  to  the  inhabi- 
tants of  both  regions,  and  which  may  be  compared  with  the  practice 
of  tattooing  which  prevails  throughout  the  tribes  of  Polynesia,  viz., 
the  custom  of  cutting  or  branding  certain  marks  upon  the  face  and 
body,  by  which  the  individuals  of  one  tribe  may  be  distinguished  from 
those  of  any  other.  This  practice  is  general  among  alT  the  Minas, 
and  also  prevails  along  the  eastern  or  Mozambique  coast  of  Southern 
Africa.  Among  the  western  or  Congo  tribes  it  does  not  appear  to  be 
•iniversal.  It  will  be  readily  understood  that  these  marks  are  of  great 
service  to  the  slave-traders,  and  all  that  have  much  to  do  with  native 
Africans  soon  learn  to  distinguish  them ;  and  the  price  of  a  slave  is 
depressed  or  enhanced  accordingly.  Among  the  Mina  nations,  so 
called  after  a  port  on  the  Slave  Coast  in  Upper  Guinea,  where  these 
slaves  are  obtained,  this  practice  is  carried  to  its  greatest  extent. 
Each  province  or  city  of  importance  has  a  distinct  brand  or  mark! 
which  is  invariable  for  all  the  inhabitants. 

Of  the  tribes  speaking  the  Houssa  language,  the  Goobere,  or  Gu- 
beri,  from  the  kingdom  of  Bornou,  have  three  or  four  marks  on  each 
side  of  the  mouth,  converging  towards  the  corners. 

Those  from  the  town  of  Kano,  inhabited  by  a  population  of  traders, 
have  several  perpendicular  and  parallel  marks  on  each  cheek. 

The  same  mark  prevails  among  the  people  of  Kashua  and  Labbi. 
neighbours  oi  the  foregoing. 


56 


RIO   JANkIRO. 


The  Soccatoos,  or  Sakatrs,  on  a  branch  of  the  Qiiorra,  have  several 
fine  long  obiicjue  marks,  converging  towards  the  corners  of  the  mouth. 


Davvwnrra  or  Dawara:  these  have  parallel  oblique  lines,  drawn  to 
the  corners  of  the  mouth,  with  shorter  marks  meeting  or  bordering 
them  above  and  below. 


nil 


liU 


The  men  of  the  Nago  or  Yarribc  nation,  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Niger  or  Quorra,  below  the  IToussa,  have  three  or  four  longitudinal 
marks  on  each  side  of  the  mouth. 
UJ.^~^.lll 

Those  of  the  women  arc  more  complicated. 

iiii\ZI/uii 
The  Tacqua,  otherwise  called  Noullic  or  Nyffie,  live  on  the  eastern 
side  of  the  (iuorra,  opposite  the  former,  and  have  two  or  three  oblique 
lines  drawn  to  the  corners  of  the  mouth. 


The  Fantees  and  ^shantees  inhabit  that  part  of  the  coast  of  Guinea 
known  as  tiio  Slave  Joast,  and  the  country  in  the  interior.  The 
former  have  no  distinguishing  mark ;  the  latter  are  characterized  b> 
scars  produced  by  burns  on  the  forehead  and  cheeks. 


9i^-'i?t' 


ASUANTEE. 

The  Minas  are  held  in  much  fear  in  Brazil.  They  are  extremely 
numerous  at  Bahia,  and  it  is  understood,  that  during  a  late  insurrec- 
tion, they  had  fully  organized  themselves,  and  were  determined  to 
institute  a  regular  system  of  government.  They  had  gone  so  far  as 
to  circulate  writings  in  Arabic,  exhorting  their  fellows  in  bondage  to 
make  the  attempt  to  recover  their  liberty. 


RIO    JANEIRO, 


67 


mvo  several 
'  the  mouth. 


!S,  drawn  u» 
r  bortloriiij^ 

bank  of  the 
longitudinal 


the  eastern 
iree  oblique 


\  of  Guinea 
jrior.  The 
cterized  bv 


extremely 
3  insurrec- 
srmined  to 
J  so  far  as 
)ondage  to 


The  Calabars,  on  the  Gulf  of  Honin,  noar  the  mouth  of  the  (-iuorra, 
arc  marked  with  two  lozongc-shai^cd  brands  on  the  breast  and 
stomach. 

The  Eboes  live  near  the  preceding,  at  the  separation  of  the 
mouths  of  the  Quorra.  Their  mark  is  an  arrow  on  each 
temple.  The  town  of  Ebo  is  a  great  mart  for  the  surroundin« 
country.  ^-^ 

The  nations  to  the  south  of  the  equator,  have  the  usual  form  of  the 
negro,  agreeably  to  our  ideas.  Those  of  the  slaves  at  Rio  de  Janeiro, 
are,  in  general,  short,  badly  formed,  or  clumsy,  with  narrow  foreheads! 
flat  noses,  protruding  jaws  and  teeth,  and  prominent  cheek-bones,  with 
the  chin  sloping  backwards.  They  are  indolent,  thoughtless,  and 
licentious.  They  may  be  seen  in  the  streets  at  all  hours,  employed  as 
carriers,  earning  the  stipulated  sum  for  their  masters.  And  when  this 
is  gained,  they  are  to  be  found  stretched  out  on  the  sidewalk,  under  the 
porticoes,  or  on  the  steps  of  churches,  enjoying  themselves  as  mere 
animals,  basking  in  the  sun  or  sleeping  in  the  shade.  They  are  not 
deficient  in  intelligence :  the  defect  is  less  in  their  intellectual  powers 
than  in  their  character,  which  appears  to  want  energy. 

Tattooing,  or  marking,  does  not  prevail  among  the  tribes  of  Lower 
(~:niuca  to  such  an  extent.  The  Kambindas,  who  border  immediately 
upon  the  Miiias,  appear  to  have  borrowed  from  them  the  custom,  but 
employ  it  rather  for  the  purpose  of  ornament  than  as  a  mode  of  dis- 
tinguishing their  origin.  The  marks  or  figures  with  which  they  brand 
themselves  are  various,  and  sometimes  ornamental.  They  are  called 
in  Rrazil,  Kambindas,  after  the  town  on  the  river  Zaire  or  Congo,  at 
which  they  are  procured. 


■%f 


w 


Of  the  Sundi  or  Mayomba,  who  live  immediately  north  of  Loango, 
between  latitude  3°  and  4°  S.,  some  have  a  row  or  band  of  small 
cicatrices  coming  from  each  shoulder  to  the  centre  of  the  breast,  like 
the  ends  of  a  pelerine;  others  have  various  arabesque  ornaments. 

VOL.  1.  s 


w 


RIO   JANEIRO. 


Tlioso  who  como  from  Duali,  tlio  capital  of  the  r.oango  district,  in 
about  latitude  4°  30'  S.,  have  marks  like  the  preceding,  on  the  IjroaMt. 
and  others  on  the  arms. 


) 


Townrdi*!  the  south,  tattooing  is  less  common,  and  among  the  Goy 
or  Angoya  people  (the  Kambindas  proper),  few  but  women  are  so 
ornamented.  Their  marks  are  characterized  in  the  three  figures 
appended. 


,,*»»■»». 


I 


I 


^  fl- 


The  Angoyans,  however,  file  their  teeth  after  a  peculiar  Hishion, 
each  tootli  being  cut  down  or  filed  in  the  centre,  so  that  only  the  sides 
are  left  standing ;  the  contiguous  sides  of  the  teeth  form  a  single  saw- 
like tooth. 


The  inhabitants  of  the  town  of  Embomma,  on  the  north  bank  of  the 
river  Congo,  are  distinguished  by  the  teeth  being  filed  so  that  each 
tooth  forms  a  point. 

The  Mundjola,  a  savage  tribe,  live  in  the  interior,  beyond  the 
Loango  district,  with  whose  inhabitants  they  are  constantly  engaged 
in  wars,  made  expressly  to  procure  slaves.  They  are  esteemed  the 
least  valuable  of  all  the  blacks  imported  into  Brazil,  being  stupid, 
ferocious,  and  intractable.  In  Africa  they  are  stigmatized  as  man- 
eaters  by  the  other  negroes.  The  Mundjola  have  the  usual  negro 
features,  with  somewhat  of  a  Tartar  expression.  Their  cheeks  are 
furrowed  longitudinally  by  numerous  parallel  lines. 

Of  the  exact  geographical  position  of  the  Mundjola,  no  definite 


RIO    JANEIRO. 


district,  in 
tlio  itre.iMt, 


g  the  Goy 
len  are  so 
ee  figures 


.r  fashion, 
/  the  sides 
ingle  saw- 


iink  of  the 
that  each 

jyond  the 
;■  engaged 
lemcd  tiie 
ig  stupid, 
as  luan- 
aal  negro 
are 


Sleeks 


T  definite 


information  was  known.  The  part  of  the  continent  which  they  are 
said  toinhal.it  is  still  unoxpl.,red ;  the  account  which  one  of  then, 
gave  Mr.  Ilale  was,  that  he  hnd  been  three  days  with  his  captors  in 
canoes,  from  Ins  native  place,  M'te,  situated  on  the  great  river  Muoto, 
bulore  reaching  I.oango,  where  ho  embarked.  It  is  probable  that  M'te 
IS  in  the  interior,  two  or  three  hundred  miles  northeast  of  Loango,  and 
that  ho  was  brought  to  the  coast  by  the  Zaire  river;  but  in  this  wild 
unexplored  ground,  all  is  yet  conjecture.  The  next  town  or  tribe  to 
M'te  he  called  Mudimbe. 


.^he  extensive  territory,  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  river  Coanza 
in  latitude  0°  20'  S.,  on  the  west  by  the  Atlantic,  on  the  south  by  the' 
Great  Desert,  which  interposes  between  it  and  the  country  of  the 
Hottentots,  and  reaching  to  an  indefinite  distance  in  the  interior,  Is 
known  under  the  name  of  Benguela,  or  as  the  natives  pronounce'  it, 
Bengera.  Over  this  extent  of  country,  comprising  at  least  half  of 
Lower  Guinea,  the  same  general  language  is  supposed  to  --evail, 
though  subdivided  into  several  dialects. 


BKNfiUEI.AN. 


The  Benguela  blacks  have  a  much  higher  character  as  slaves  tlian 


60 


RIO    JANEIRO. 


tlie  other  nations  of  Lower  Guinea.  They  are  next  in  estimation  to 
the  Minas,  being  steady,  industrious,  and  intelligent.  They  make 
excellent  husbandmen.  They  are  generally  of  good  height,  with 
features  having  less  of  the  negro  stamp  than  those  of  the  Congo :  the 
forehead  tolerably  high,  the  nose  not  much  depressed,  and  the  lips 
moderately  full. 

The  extent  of  the  Congo  territory  is  now  comprised  between  the 
Zaire  and  Dande  rivers,  or  about  two  hundred  miles  of  sea-coasU 
These  limits  define  with  sufficient  accuracy  the  extent  within  which 
the  Congo  language  prevails. 


CONGO. 


The   Congoes   file  their  teeth  after  the   fashion  of  the   Angoyas. 
Sometimes,  though  not  often,  they  have  a  few  marks  on  each  temple. 


""^   ^^^ 


The  Angola  and  the  Kasanji  are  considered  in  Rio  as  of  different 
nations,  but  their  languages  are  the  same,  with  hardly  a  dialectical 


KA8ANJI. 


RIO    JANEIRO. 


61 


difference,  and  it  is  extremely  soft  in  pronunciation.  Some  of  the 
natives  found  great  difficulty  in  enunciating  sounds  of  the  Portuguese, 
saying  balaha  for  barha,  cibali  for  cidade.  Though  the  Angola  and 
Kasanji  spoke  the  same  language,  yet  there  was  a  considerable  differ- 
ence between  the  dialects  of  two  Angolas,  the  one  from  Loando  on 
the  coast,  the  other  from  M'baka,  or  Ambacca,  about  three  hundred 
miles  in  the  interior. 

From  the  best  information,  it  is  believed  that  the  only  distinction 
Detween  them  Is,  that  the  Angolas  are  under  the  domination  of  the 
Portuguese  government,  and  the  Kasanji  are  the  free  natives  of  the 
interior. 

The  former  inhabit  a  narrow  province,  from  sixty  to  eighty  miles 
in  width,  between  the  two  rivers  Dande  and  Coanza,  and  extending 
inland  something  more  than  one  hundred  leagues,  or  as  far  as  the 
Portuguese  power  can  make  itself  felt ;  the  latter,  commencing  at  this 
point,  are  spread  over  a  large  territory  in  the  interior  of  the  continent. 
One  of  the  natives  stated  the  time  it  took  to  go  from  Loando  (the 
Portuguese  seaport)  to  Kasanji  to  be  three  months,  and  to  return, 
two;  the  former  journey,  as  far  as  it  was  made  in  boats,  being  against 
the  stream. 

The  eastern  coast  of  Africa,  from  the  equator  to  the  Hottentots  of 
the  Cape,  is  occupied  by  two  nations  or  races  of  people,  which,  though 
bearing  marks  of  a  common  origin,  are  yet  perfectly  distinct.  Each 
of  them  is  subdivided  into  several  minor  tribes  or  clans.  The  first  of 
tiiese  may  be  called  the  Mozambique  or  Makua,  and  the  second  the 
Catlre  race. 


The  Mozambique  or  Makua  tribe,  are  the  people  who  possess  all  the 
country  inland  of  the  Portuguese  and  Arab  settlements,  INIelinda, 
Quilao,  Mozambique,  Quilinianc,  and  Sofala.  They  occupy  the  country 
which  was  formerly  comprised  in  the  erniiirc  of  Motapa,  but  is  now 
divided  between  iitc  Puilugucsc  and  scvcrul   native  provinces.     The 


(i2 


RIO   JANEIRO. 


souUiern  boundary  of  this  people  appears  to  be  the  river  Inhambane, 
which  empties  into  the  Indian  Ocean,  near  Cape  Corientes,  under  the 
southern  tropic.  The  negroes  who  inhabit  the  country  near  the  Portu- 
guese settlement  of  Mozambique,  are  the  Mozambique  or  Makuans : 
they  differ  little  in  their  character  or  bodily  conformation  from  the 
Congo  tribes  on  the  opposite  coast.  They  have  the  negro  physiog- 
nomy and  qualities  in  their  full  extent,  and  perhaps  are,  if  any  thing, 
rather  lower  in  the  grade  of  intellect  than  their  brethren  of  the  west. "" 
The  custom  of  marking  prevails  among  all  the  tribes  of  the  eastern 
coast.  The  Mozambique  people  are  distinguished  by  a  scar  like  a 
horseshoe  in  the  centre  of  the  forehead,  with  others  somewhat  different 
on  each  side.  They  have  other  marks  of  a  similar  nature  on  the  chin, 
and  a  large  brand  in  the  shape  of  the  letter  S  covers  the  breast ;  their 
teeth  are  filed  sharp,  each  tooth  making  a  separate  point. 

The  Takwani  dwell  on  the  great  river  Zambezi,  at  whose  mouth 
Quilimane  is  situated.  This  was  formerly  the  line  of  division  between 
the  northern  or  barbarous  Makuans  and  the  territories  of  the  Motapa. 
Although  this  empire  is  extinct,  the  countries  south  of  the  river  still 
preserve  some  political  connexion.  All  this  region  was  formerly 
termed  Mocacougua  by  the  Portuguese.  The  Takwani,  by  way  of 
marks,  have  several  groups  of  dots  or  scars  imprinted  in  various  parts 
of  the  forehead,  and  also  on  the  breast. 


J' 


Takwani  is  situated  four  days'  journey  up  the  river  Zambezi. 

The  natives  of  Mesena  have  also  the  same  marks ;  they  inhabit  the 
country  round  the  Portuguese  fort  Sena,  on  the  Zambezi,  and  were 
formerly  part  of  the  great  kingdom  of  Motapa. 


TAKWANI. 


CAFFIIE  PROPER. 


RIO    JANEIRO. 


63 


The  Caflres  who  are  found  as  slaves,  are  generally  slender  and  well 
made,  with  faces  partaking  slightly  of  the  Moorish  cast.  Their 
colour  is  a  yellowish  brown,  between  that  of  a  mulatto  and  true 
negro.  The  nose  is  not  depressed,  the  lips  are  rather  thick,  the  eyes 
large,  black,  and  bright,  and  the  hair  woolly.  Two  divisions  of  the 
Caflres  have  been  described  by  the  various  authors  who  have  written 
of  them  and  their  dialects.  These  tribes  they  have  divided  into  the 
Caffi-es  proper,  to  the  east  of  the  colony  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope, 
extending  from  the  Great  Fish  River  as  far  east  as  Delagoa  Bay,  in 
latitude  26^  S. ;  and  the  Bechuanas,  to  the  north,  inhabiting  the 
interior  as  far  as  the  tropics,  and  the  country  of  the  Wanketsi. 

The  country  between  Delagoa  Bay  and  Sofala,  Mr.  Hale,  from  his 
investigation,  believes  to  be  inhabited  by  another  race  of  Caffres, 
which  he  designates  by  the  name  of  Nyambana.  He  remarks,  that 
their  language  and  physical  traits  belong  to  the  same  family  with  the 
Caflres  proper  and  the  Bechuanas.  Their  physiognomy  is  similar  to 
that  described  as  distinctive  of  the  Caffres,  and  their  language  proved 
to  be  a  sister  dialect. 

The  natives  whom  he  met  with,  and  from  whom  this  information 
was  derived,  came  from  the  town  of  Okankomatta,  on  the  coast, 
between  the  Nyambara  and  Nyango  rivers,  in  about  latitude  24°  S.', 
and  from  Kamouanawankushion,  the  river  of  Nyampara,  in  the  inte- 
rior. The  distinctive  personal  mark  of  this  tribe  is  the  most  extra- 
ordinary of  any.  It  consists  of  a  row  of  artificial  pimples  or  warts, 
about  the  size  of  a  pea,  beginning  in  the  middle  of  the  upper  part  of 
the  forehead,  and  descending  to  the  tip  of  the  nose.  Of  these  they  are 
very  proud.  The  manner  in  which  these  singular  elevations  were 
produced  we  were  not  able  to  learn.  The  natives  appeared  to  be 
averse  to  speaking  of  it. 


^»A** — 

NYAMBANA. 


MUWANA. 


64 


RIO    JANEIRO. 


The  Mudiana  or  Mutchana  are  one  of  a  number  of  savage  tribes 
who  inhabit  the  country  inland  of  Maiiua  and  Mocacougua,  with 
whom  they  carry  on  a  continual  war,  for  the  purpose  of  procurin.^ 
slaves.  The  best  known  of  these  are  the  Mudjana,  the  Mananji,  iho 
Maravi,  and  the  Makonde.  The  Mudjana  dwell  about  three  hundred 
miles  irom  the  coast,  and  are  among  the  ugliest  of  the  African  tribes. 
They  are  short  and  ill-formed,  witli  the  usual  negro  features  in  their 
most  exaggerated  forms.  They  have  on  the  face  and  body  cicatrices 
in  the  shape  of  a  double  cross  or  star,  disposed  without  regularity. 
Ihe  incisions  arc  made  when  they  are  children,  and  some  kind  of 
wood  IS  rubbed  upon  them  to  give  a  dark  colour. 

The  Mokonde,  similarly  located,  have  marks  hke  to  those  of  the 
Mudjana.  Their  teeth  are  filed  down  in  the  centre,  the  sides  of  each 
tooth  being  left  like  those  of  the  Angoyas. 

All  these  blacks  are  from  ditferent  parts  of  the  coast,  and  havincr 
been  hostile  tribes,  retain  much  of  their  antipathy  to  each  other      In 
genera!  they  are  kindly  treated,  and  become  firmly  attached  to  their 
masters;  more,  however,  from  a  clannish  feeling  than  from  gratitude. 
of  which  virtue  they  seem  to  possess  little.     They  are  baptized  by  their 
owners  as  soon  as  purchased,  and  in  the  cities  attend  mass  regularly, 
and  go  to  confession,  but  they  are  never  thought  to  become  cntireiy 
civilized.     Those  who  receive  their  freedom  in  reward  for  faithful 
services,  or  purchase  it,  conduct  themselves  well;  their  descendants 
are  much  superior  in  point  of  intelligence.     Many  of  them  own  slaves, 
and  prove  much  more  severe  masters  than  the  whites.     Male  slave. 
are  put  to  any  trade  or  craft  they  may  desire.     Females  are  for  the 
most  part  employed  as  mantua-makers,  and  almost  all  the  finery  worn 
by  the  higher  circles  at  public  fetes  is  made  by  slaves.     Indeed,  many 
masters  and  mistresses  are  dependent  on  the  labour  of  their  slaves  foV 
their  daily  support.     There  arc  some  blacks  who  are  priests,  and 
others  officers  in  the  army;  indeed,  some  of  the  deputies  would  not 
pass  for  white  men  elsewhere. 

Another  remarkable  circumstance  that  strikes  the  visiter  is  the 
absence  of  beggars.  Many  disgusting  objects  may  be  seen  amon^r  the 
slave  population,  but  I  do  not  recollect  having  met  with  a  beggar  I 
have  understood  that  they  are  not  sulTcrcd  to  appear  in  the"  streets. 
This  is  the  law  in  almost  all  cities,  but  hero  it  is  rigidly  observed. 
Charitable  institutions  are  extensively  endowed,  particularly  that  of 
the  Misericordia. 

The  streets  of  the  city  generally  cross  each  other  at  rjcrht  an-'los 
Some  few  of  them  have  sidewalks,  but  thev  are  narrowband  badiv 
paved.  The  gutters  are  in  tlic  middle  r.f  flic  streets,  with  a  stream  oV 
water  which   e...its   a    s.nell    '.y   no   nuMus    ••.-recnble.     Those    ,„o.i 


avage  tribes 
ougua,  with 
of  procuring 
Mananji,  llio 
ree  hundrod 
frican  tribes, 
ires  ill  their 
ly  cicatrices 
t  regularity. 
)me  kind  of 

those  of  the 
ides  of  each 

and  having 
1  other.     Ill 
led  to  their 
■n  gratitude, 
ized  by  their 
s  regularly, 
me  entirely 
for  faithful 
iescendants 
own  slaves, 
Hale  slaves 
arc  for  the 
inery  worn 
leed,  many 
r  slaves  for 
riests,  and 
would  not 

iter  if  the 
among  the 
beggar.  I 
he  streets, 
observed, 
•ly  that  of 

jht  angles. 

and  badly 

.strcMin  of 

!iose    uinst 


RIO    JANEIRO. 


65 


fre(iuented  are  the  R„a  Direita  and  Ouvidor.     The  former,  containing 

the  palace  and  cathedral,  is  the  broadest  in  the  city.     In  the  latter  are 

tlie  princii)al  shops,  and  it  is  the  gayest.     'J'he  streets  are  paved  with 

blocks  ol  stone.   The  houses  are  for  the  most  part  two  stories  in  hci-rht, 

•md  notwithstanding  the  materials  ave  strong,  yet  the  red  tiled  roofs 

overhang  m  places  fearlully.     The  interior  of  the  houses  will  not  bear 

inspect Kjn.     Ceilings,  walls,  and  floors,  are  all  exceedin.rly  roucrh      In 

llu.se  of  tiie  better  kind,  the  walls  and  ceilings  are  plastered,  ami  have 

ornamented  designs  painted  in  fresco.     Silk  hangings  are  much  in 

vogue.     I  was  struck  with  the  want  of  light  and  ventilation  in  the 

rooms  and  houses.     The  city  in  some  parts  has  a  triste  appearance, 

but  in  others  there  are  few  places  which  show  so  much  stir  and  bu^llc 

particularly  when  it  is  considered  that  wheeled  vehicles  are  not  used 

lor  transportation.     What  gives  Rio  its  principal  charm  are  its  suburbs 

and  the  small  quintas  around  it.     Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  of 

those  around  Gloria  and  Botofogo.     These  situations  are  general!  • 

occupied  by  loreigners  established  here  in  business. 


^  The  amusements  of  riding  and  fishing,  with  wafer  excursions,  are 
irequcnt,  and  of  the  most  agreeable  kind.     Tliese  and  other  advanta-es 
of  so  fine  a  climate,  soon  render  a  i-esi.len.-e  at  Rio  (,uite  desirable 
1  here  IS  much  pleasant  foreign  society,  composed  of  the  diplomatic 


4 


00 


(MO    .IAN  I :  I  l<  ( ). 


••t'i|i.s,  miiiiy  ii'liifil  iM'Mlliiiirii,  iiml  ^I'lHTiilly  llif  clliri'iN  nf  (Ik;  sovcinil 
nii'ii-ol-w  :n' III'  (lillni'iil  iiaiimis.  I  liml  llm  |>l('asmc  nl'  iiKiiiliiij^  noiiio 
old   iVii'mls,  iiiiil   Ihi-  lime  I   cmilil   s|i;iic  was   vci'v   iii^rccalilv  sihmiI   in 


ll 


it'ir  siicii'lN. 

'I'Ikmc  M|i|icfir.s  1(1  111'  lull  lilllc  iiili  rciiiirsc  liclwccn  llic  IJrii/.iiimis  iiiid 
tilt'  l(iri'i|i;ii  siu'ii'ty.  'I'lii'  Iriiiiili' si'\  parliriiliirly  is  still  iiuicli  rcstrii-tcil 
ill  tliis  ii'siH'cl,  mid  niriioiiLtli  i^icmI  imiuoscmfiil  Iiiin  tiiKcii  pliii'i',  yi"t 
llu>y  Ncl!  .'  •iii\  i!>  i.'.-ImI  iiiliTrdinsc  willi  riir("isj;ii('rs  ;  I  nin  tuld  tliiil 
«'v<Mi  n  1  >msi'I\(".  tlit'y  arc  scldum  scci,  cvcciit   al   fcrcnKiiiioii'- 

|if|iti('s.  .  ,    Mil'    very    min-li    as   unc    Wdiild    <'\iit>ct    llu'iii    to    In;, 

rcscrvi'd,  rctiiiiii;,  iiml  -.vMiitiii!.!;  in  I'diu'alinM.  'I'licy  dress  jiricr  llu' 
l''n'iirli  lasliioii,  niid  aic  usually  foM'icd  willi  liiicrN ,  ol'lcii  dis|ila\  iinj; 
siilciidid    jcwi'ls,  willidiit  taste.     'I'liere  is  luMie  of  that  ease  and   i^aielv 


I'lii.'li 


t'MsIs  \\  here  (Ik'  lair 


se\    IS  eonsidered  en  an  ('((iialily  with   llie 


otliiT,  and  tiiei'e  is  a  tot.al  aiisenee  of  tiial  tone  \\lii<-|i  a  eonseiousiie.ss 
ol  llieir  value  u;ives  to  soeiety.  'riiou!';li  there  is  a  i^re.al  advancement 
in  llieu'  education,  yet  there  is  siill  unicli  room  for  iiii|ii-ovenient. 
I'\)rmeily  (hey  were  not  allowed  to  he  I'ducated  al  all.  'I'heir  usual 
pl'iee  ol'  resoil  diiriii;';  the  al'lifinooii  and  evcniii'^  is  the  lialeonies  of 
their  houses;  sonu-  ol' them  are  occasionally  seen  at  church,  it  is  said 
ihi-y  soon  lose  then'  hcanl_\  ,aii  early  a^'c  heiii!:  considered  as  their  |irime. 

It  i',ives  me  iileasure  to  hear  t<'slimon\  tiial  I  witnessed  an  excep- 
tion to  tlie  alioM*  yciu'ial  riiK'. 

.Aiuoii'i;  tile  many  places  to  which  we  had  the  liononr  ol'  an 
invitation,  was  the  Whilc-.la.'kct  l!al|,  at  I'raya  (Jrande,  so  called  in 
consciiuciu-e  of  a  rciiuest  heiue;  made  on  lhi>  can!  of  invitation,  that 
tlie  otMitlemcn  Wi>uld  come  in  wliile  jat'kels,  and  llie  ladies  appi'ar 
wilhonl  hrilliants  or  other  jewels.     W'e  u;Iadly  accepted  tli(<  invitation. 

'I'he  row  acr.'  s  th.e  hay  was  lu'anliriil:  the  water  midistmlied  hv 
any  l>rci'.-e  ;   (he  cool  and  halmy  ;   w  liile  ihousaiuls  of  li.vlns  aloii'^ 

the  shores,  and  llie  pluisi>hon  sccnci'  oC  ihe  water,  gave  additional 
inleivst  ami  hrilliancy  to  the  whole.  Tlu'  distance,  thoiii^h  j^real, 
was  not  iO(>  much  tor  so  heaiitirul  an  evenimx. 

Alter  heiui;-  oiu'c  or  twice  at  faiill.  \vi>  at  last  lomid  the  landiiii^'. 
and  walkcil  a  short  distance  iVom  the  beach.  (lu  n-achin^  the 
ante-room,  we  wert'  mot  by  tlu>  committee  ot\i:;entIemeii  or  manai;ers. 
aiul  kindly  sxreeted  witlioul  (•cn-mony,  makiiur  ns  at  o\u-c  t'cel  at  our 
ease.  \\'e  were  shortly  at'ier  usiiered  into  one  of  the  mo<t  spleiulid 
ball-rooms  1  ever  saw:  it  would  eoniaiu  over  one  tliousaud  ]>crsons. 
There  were  upwards  ot'  thr.'c  hundred  I'leseut.  all  dressed  in  pure 
white,  without  any  tiiu'iy  whatever.  'I'he  room  was  brillianllv 
liglited.     We  were  s!uw\  n  around  and   introduced    to  a    L'reat   nuun 


I{  I  <)    J  A  ,\  K  I  U  O. 


87 


l-rsoMS  .,1  l,ntl.  s<.x,.H.  uIm.  all  sra,,..!  h-M  .„.  anu.scm.mt.  I.  was 
inily  a  ,,,„»  souci  nu.-Uu..  S,.|,|,.n,  |,av.!  I  s..,,.  so  nmcli  l'o<„1  tast(. 
as  was  . I,s,,lay,.l  i„  ,h.  an«,.«„M..,ts,  ,„•  so  ^.„,.|  a  lo...  of  so.i,,,y 
A  «,.o.  .a.ul  of,n„Hi,.,  all  llra.ilians.  play.,1  wallz.s  an.l  ...ard.cs 
='I'-Mat.>ly.  I  was  ,oM  ,h..n,  vv.mv  nnny  .lis.in^.nsl.c.l  ,hu-s,.ms. 
scnat..rs,  iri.r.:s.-nla(iv,.s  ..f  )|„!  .rontrrcss,  .V.i.,  prcs.-nt 

Tl>.s.  halls  talu>  p|„,..  .Mon.l.ly.  an.l  aro  n,-a||y  what  thay  pmlbss 

">n.     All  Iho  .xpcns.  (ha.  alf.M,.ls  Ihra,  is  ih.  ...nsi,.,  and  lighls;  so,,., 
li'vv  (liilc(.!s  wore;  llio  only  rclVi^shiiioiilH. 

Tl'<'  l"n.^'Ma,^ro  g.„,.rally  spok.,,.  was  Por.„fr,...so,  though  som.o  ilnv 
-f  II"  la.li.-s,  an.l  .:,any  of  (ho  crontlonum,  spoko  Fronch.  I  was  no. 
HM..-h  s.n.d<  wi(h  .ho  hoan.y  of  (ho  la.lios,  (hon.h  n.any  were  c,ni.o 
|'i''»ly.      Ihc  .jrroa.  ohann  thrown  ov<u-  .ho  whojo  was  .ho  nnaffooto,! 

,"''■•'  ""•'  «"''''•'«  «"'•""''-■<'  l-y  fl'o  wholo  con.panv.     I  lof.  .ho  hall 

''?"";  '■ y'^';''^'''i;'«ly  H'-a.ili..l  wi.l.  ,ny  visi(,  an.l  .ho  politeness 

JiiKl  knidnoss  that  had  hoen  shown  us, 

< '"  <l..-  ^7(1,  or  Novond.or  .ho  Itolief  arrived,  afior  a  pas«a,.e  of  one 
l'"".lred  .lays  fron.  (ho  United  Stah's,  .he  lon^.-st  ever  n.a.l,..  On 
'^«;q".s,(,o„s  bein,^r  n.a.l..  for  hor  s(ores,  I  was  .^really  an.l  vexa(ionslv 
.lisappon.(.-d  .o  rec-eive  a  report  .hat  (1,,^'  re,|Mired  a  surv.n',  as  all 
were  considored  dofecive.  in.dn.Iin.ir  ov<<n  .he  bread  an.!  /lo„r  This 
'•'•I""'.  "It"'-  a  e.areful  snrv.y  l,y  sevc-n  ..Hirers,  pn.vc.l  ...  h.,-  .rno  I 
''••"'  '•'•''"  >ni..rn.e.i  before  .akin.i^  eonnnan.l  of  .ho  s.jua.lro,,  .hat  these 
I.n.visions  ha.l  b.=en  insport,.|,  an.l  „n<Iers.,.od  .ho„i  ,o  ho  in  -ood 
"rder,  an.l  .hat  .lu^y  w..uM  last  over  a  y.vir.  "'^ 

Al(l...ni,d»  .his  .li.l  not  .lelay  us.  f.,r  the  repairs  in  progress  rould  n.,t 
liave  been  eonip!..t.>.l  hef..ro  we  wonl.l  b.,  able  to  repiaee  (hen,  yet 
•■'Mmn-  as  it  dul  with  other  v.n-atinns  and  .lelays.  i.  was  rather  trvinjr 
t"  <''"  pa.ienee,  an.l  n.a.Ie  it  necessary  to  re.lonble  our  e.erlions 

Ihe  Rehefwas  .lespat.die.I  at  the  earl i.^st  da)'  possibi,.,  (he  llth  of 
'^v'Mnber,  n,  or.ler  to  enable  her  to  reach  Oraniro  Harbour,  in  Terra 
d.'l  'n.>-o,  the  pla.-e  T  ha.l  (ix.>d  upon  as  a  rendezv.Mis,  simposinK  she 
woul.l  take  at  least  lifte.ui  .lays  more  than  (he  other  vessels  to  reach 
'!"•  i'la.-e  at  the  same  time.  The  boats  towc.l  her  down  the  harbour 
an.i  uavo  her  a  fair  start. 

Two  of  the  ..dicers  of  the  squadron  ascended  the  SuTar  Loaf 
If.'aruig  the  expression  of  my  sm'prisc  that  flu'v  should  have  pcr- 
t'MMucd  such  an  nnder.aking  wi.lu.ut  ins.run.ents  thev  immediatolv 
volunteered  t.)  make  it  again.  Lieut.^nants  Underw.iod  and  Dale 
were  (urnished  with  the  re.iuisite  instruments,  and  the  hei-dit  was 
ohtaniod   by  (he  sympiesometer,  which  agreed  within  a  few "  feet  of 


■ 


68 


RIO   JANEIRO. 


that  obtained  by  triangulution.      The  results  will   be  found   in  tl 


table. 


Iio 


Not  hf 


g  time  to  complete  all  they  desired,  some  of  the  party 
remained  over  night  to  complete  the  interesting  observations.  Lieu- 
tenants Emmons  and  Underwood,  on  their  first  trip,  obtained  many 
interesting  botanical  specimens,  among  them  Bromelias,  Tilland- 
sias,  &c. 

On  the  IGth,  the  Peacock,  with  the  two  tenders,  sailed  for  the 
purpose  of  measuring  the  distance  between  Cape  Frio  and  Eiixudos 
observatory.  I  had  first  determined  to  measure  the  distance  by 
rocket-signals,  as  the  distance,  lying  nearly  east  and  west,  rendered 
this  method  very  a])plicable ;  but  the  duties  I  was  engaged  in,  and 
the  difficulties  I  might  encounter  from  delays,  prevented  me  from 
having  recourse  to  it.  I  therefore  adopted  that  by  sound,  wishing 
also  to  satisfy  myself  with  what  accuracy  a  length  of  this  distance 
could  be  measured  in  this  manner. 

Captain  Hudson  was  also  ordered  to  examine  the  St.  Thomas 
Shoal,  to  the  northward  of  the  Cape. 

The  manner  of  accomplishing  the  former  duty  was  as  follows. 
The  three  vessels  were  anchored  in  a  triangle,  with  the  light-house  in 
sight,  two  vessels  being  in  range  with  it,  nearly  east  and  west, 
towards  the  harbour  of  Rio.  Each  vessel  firing  four  guns,  the  times 
of  the  flashes  and  reports  of  which  were  noted  in  the  others.  The 
angles  were  simultaneously  observed  between  the  objects,  and  the 
astronomical  bearings  taken.  This  gave  the  data  to  connect  the 
survey  with  the  light-house. 

The  vessels  now  changed  their  positions  alternately,  anchoring  ui 
range,  and  on  astronomical  bearings  proceeding  westward,  until  they 
reached  the  island  of  Enxados,  where  they  again  formed  a  triangle  in 
connexion  with  the  observatory. 

Our  repairs  in  Rio  were  extensive,  particularly  those  on  the 
Peacock.  Among  other  things,  the  head  of  the  mizzen-mast  had  to 
be  cut  off  eighteen  inches,  in  consequence  of  a  defect  in  it,  which  it 
appeared  had  been  filled  up  with  rope-yarns  and  putty,  and  painted 
over,  at  her  outfit.  The  defects  about  the  vessel  were  so  glaring 
that  in  going  to  the  high  latitudes,  it  would  have  been  impossible  to 
secure  the  crew  from  great  suffering  and  exposure.  Even  in  the 
state  in  which  the  squadron  was  now  put,  I  had  every  apprehension 
of  the  greatest  disasters.  The  Peacock,  particularly,  was  wholly 
unseaworthy  with  respect  to  such  a  cruise. 

My  object  in  giving  these  details  is  not  to  impute  blame  to  any  one, 
however  satisfied  I  may  be  of  the  great  neglect  in  all  the  outf..s,  but 


RIO  J  A  N  r;  I  R  (). 


painted 


to   let   the    country  know    whiit    were    the    dilHcuIties 


encounter. 


69 

we  had   to 


It  is  always  (lifllrult  to  calculate 


upon  the  delays  that  may  occur 


.  »        .  1     "    ..v-..ij,o    mill,    iiiav   uuiiur 

in  a  foreign  port,  particularly  when  it  is  necessary  to  employ  foreign 
workmen  Their  hours,  habits,  and  manner  of  working,  are  so 
diflercnt  from  oiu-  own,  that  great  patience  is  required  in  those  who 
employ  them.  The  manner  in  which  the  calkcrs  of  Rio  work,  would 
draw  crowds  around  them  in  one  of  our  own  cities;  to  see  many  of 
them  engaged  on  a  single  seam  on  the  outside  of  the  vessel,  striking 
the  mallet  at  a  signal  given  by  their  leader  or  overseer  with  his 
whistle,  IS  amusing.  They  are  generally  blacks,  (probably  slaves,) 
and  the  leader  a  white  man.  The  imi.ression  made  upon  us  all  was 
that  they  were  an  indoleni  set;  yet  tiiey  are  said  to  understand  their 
l»iismess  well.  I  cannot,  however,  bear  favourable  testimony  to  their 
work  ;  the  calking  of  my  ship  was  certainly  badly  done. 

The  uncertainty  of  the  length  of  time  I  should  be  detained,  rendered 
It  nnpossible  for  mc  to  allow  long  absences  from  the  ship.  I  was 
anxious  to  have  made  some  measuremcnfs  of  the  Organ  Mountains, 
and  tliat  our  parties  should  extend  their  researches  beyond  them  to  the 
("ampos. 

Dr.  Pickering  and  Mr.  Brackenridge  succeeded  in  making  the 
trip  to  the  Organ  IMountains  on  a  botanical  excursion  ;  l)ut  the  outfits 
and  duties  connected  with  the  vessels  and  observations,  made  it 
nnpossiblc  for  me  to  spare  any  officers  to  make  the  measurement  of 
then-  height,  or  to  go  myself.  These  gentlemen  set  out,  bavin-  taken 
passage  in  the  usual  freight-boat,  (felucca  rigged,)  for  Estrella, 
embarking  their  horses  and  mules  in  anr.ther.  These  boats  are  not 
decked  and  are  of  sulRcient  tonnage  to  make  them  safe  and  convenient 
Iro.ght-boats.  They  generally  have  four  or  five  slaves  with  a  padron 
to  manage  them. 

On  leaving  Rio  they  steered  up  the  bay  for  the  island  of  Goberna- 
clor,  round  which  it  is  necessary  to  pass,  on  their  way  towards  the 
river  Anhumirim,  aided  by  a  fair  breeze  and  fine  veather.  Tl  oy 
iound  the  sail  up  the  bay  extremely  bcautifiil,  the  islands  ofierinrr  a 
constant  source  of  interest  and  novelty.  The  mouth  of  the  Anliu- 
minm  river  was  reached  in  about  three  hours.  It  was  found  about 
forty  yards  Avide  and  (|uite  shallow.  The  banks  are  an  extensive 
mangrove  swamp.  They  passed  up  the  river  about  eight  miles,  and 
reached  the  port  of  Estrella  at  midday,  where  thev  took  their  horses 
and  pursued  the  main  road  to  the  mines,  which  crosses  to  the  west- 
ward of  the  highest  peak.     The  distance  to  the  base  of  the  mountain 


■ 


70 


RIO   JANEIRO. 


from  Estrellii,  is  nboiit  Ion  miles,  duo  nortli.  Tiio  nountry  is  flat,  witii 
occasional  luulnlutions.  About  two  milos  tVoin  EstrcUa  they  came  to 
a  guard-iiousc,  wlicre  they  were  stopped.  Their  guide  not  being  ul 
hand,  and  not  understanding  tiie  language  themselves,  they  supjjosed 
their  |)assports  were  demanded,  and  believing  the  reports  to  be  true 
that  we  had  all  heard  so  often  of  the  jealousy  of  the  Brazilians  in 
relation  to  the  admission  of  foreigners  into  the  interior,  they  concluded 
they  were  now  to  experience  it.  But  on  the  guide  coming  up,  the 
matter  was  soon  arranged  by  the  payment  of  a  small  tax,  which  was 
the  only  jiassport  they  found  necessary.  The  ascent  of  the  pass  is 
made  by  a  well-})aved  zigzag  road.  They  soon  reached  the  house  of 
Padre  Luiz,  where  they  wore  kindly  and  hospitably  received,  and 
supper  was  su))i)lied  them  from  his  scanty  larder. 

Padre  Luiz's  house  was  quite  spacious:  a  long  one-story  I i.ilding, 
containing  under  the  same  roof  the  stable  and  storehoi  ,o,  as  well  as 
accommodations  for  travellers  and  the  females  of  the  family.  The 
latter,  agreeably  to  the  custom  of  the  country,  were  not  seen,  though 
known  to  exist.  Cold  and  wet,  our  'ruvellers  were  ushered  into  an 
apartment  where  there  was  neither  floo  •  no''  fire,  and  in  which  'here 
was  a  free  circulation  of  air  through  tht  cracks  and  crevices  in  the 
wills.  The  roof,  however,  was  tight,  \v  ;ich  was  lucky,  as  it  was 
raining  hara.  A  little  further  insight  and  oxpi^rience  into  the  customs 
and  comforts  of  the  country,  made  them  th  nk  that  the  accommodations 
here  had  been  excellent.  After  a  most  unreasonable  delay,  coflee,  a 
fowl,  and  rice  wore  sot  before  tliom,  wit'i  much  ])arado  and  ceremony. 
During  the  night  they  heard  what  was  supposed  to  be  tlie  howling 
monkey,  but  upon  inquiry  it  turned  out  u.  bo  a  Brazilian  toad,  called 
in  Brazil  "the  blacksmith,"  whose  croak  is  said  to  resemble  very 
much  the  sound  of  hammering  on  an  a  'vil. 

The  next  morning,  understanding  that  they  liad  been  treated  with 
luxuries  and  as  persons  of  distinction,  they  told  their  host  that  they 
preferred  tlie  dish  of  the  country,"  carne  seed"  and  "  farinha,"  which, 
with  tiie  addition  of  a  few  eggs  and  ;i  cup  of  codee,  made  an  excellent 
meal,  and  was  quickly  served. 

They  rode  this  day  about  twenty  miles  beyond  the  Organ  Moun- 
tains, the  extent  to  which  their  jaunt  reached.  On  their  way,  they 
met  vast  numbers  of  mules  lu;avily  laden.  The  roads  were  generally 
good,  and  very  little  expense  would  have  made  them  excellent  for 
carriages. 

At  Padre  Coneas',  at  the  top  of  the  pass,  they  found  a  native  fig- 
tree,  of  enormous  size,  with  numerous  parasitical  plants  upon  it.     It 


RIO   J  A  N  K  I  fl  O. 


71 


WHS  fo  fhom  quite  a  noveify  from  its  low  hriinclips,  vvliioli  oMcndcd  hori- 
zontally  and  (!ovnro(l  a  space  of  out;  liiindrod  and  forty  fci.'t  in  diamotor. 
After  leaving  the  Estrolla  Pass,  the  descent  was  very  jrradual,  the 
ronto  !  ing  among  the  mountains.  Crossing  the  river  Pail)anha,  they 
reached  .-.  hamlet  hcaiitifully  situated  on  the  l)row  of  a  hill,  and  com- 
manding an  extensive  view  of  the  country.  Here  they  found  tiio 
place  well  suited  to  their  employment  of  making  collections  of 
plants,  and  resolved  to  stop.  Thoir  host  kept  a  small  store,  and  had  a 
German  for  salesman,  who  was  greatly  delighted  at  finding  that  Mr. 
Brackenridgo  could  speak  his  language.  lie  paid  them  great  atten- 
tion, and  provided  ain|)ly  for  their  wants. 

Thoy  wero  gratified  hy  the  rich  botanical  field  that  was  open  to 
them.  Among  the  ])lants,  or  trees,  were  ('upheas,  with  deep  purple 
flowers,  and  others  with  lilac;  Lobelias  r,rieen  feet  high,  with  spikes 
of  blue  flowers  three  feet  long;  and  Acacias  in  full  thiwer.  Cyrtopo- 
dium  Andersfnii  grew  on  the  rocks  in  bunches,  (fee.  Several  trees 
of  the  Araucaria  Brasiliensis,  from  seventy  to  eighty  feet  high,  were 
found  in  the  valley,  whi(;h  Mr.  Brackenridge  succeeded  in  climbing, 
and  obtained  two  handsome  cone;:.  The  rivers  were  also  searched 
for  shells,  but  the  water  was  too  high  to  aflford  success. 

Returning  at  dark  they  found  the  German  had  ])rovidcd  sujiper, 
which  was  soon  served.  It  Cu.\sisted  of  bean  soup,  Indian  bread,  fried 
jerked  beef,  and  sausages:  they  liad^  the  satisfaction  of  eating  the  meal 
on  their  knees,  for  there  was  no  table,  but  one  spoon,  and  only  one 
knife  for  three  persons. 

Having  loaded  themselves  with  specimens,  they  concluded  to  return, 
their  ideas  of  life  in  tropical  climates  having  undergone  much  change 
in  this  short  time,  from  the  erroneous  belief  they  had  entertained  that 
industry  was  not  necessary,  that  the  inhabitants  were  surrounded  by 
luxuries,  having  every  delicacy  imaginal)le,  and  that  the  only  reason 
they  were  not  advanced  in  agriculture  and  tlie  arts  was  from  the  idle- 
ness engendered  by  the  enervating  influence  of  the  climate.  The 
fatigue  and  endurance  necessary  to  overcome  the  actual  state  of 
things,  was  least  of  all  expected ;  and  such  a  thing  as  suflering  from 
cold,  even  on  elevated  spots,  had  not  buon  dreamed  of. 

The  common  food  of  the  country  was  found  to  be  ground  manioc 
and  jerked  beef,  which  proved  palatable  after  their  fatigues.  Their 
guide,  however,  who  was  a  New  Hampshire  man,  complained  much 
of  his  jirivations. 

They  had  ^een  the  Mato  Virgen,  or  primeval  forest,  and  instead  of 
finding  it,  as  had  been  represented,  beset  with  dilFiculties  in  penetrating 
it,  they  were  surprised  to  find  it  more  accessible  than  some  of  the 


72 


li  I  ( I    JAN  I :  I  U  I ). 


forests  ill  uiir  Allarilic  States.  AfCdnliii;^'  to  llio  iiccoiints  of  intclligont 
residents,  it  is  easily  traversed  in  any  direction.  Tlio  ace.oiints  of 
dilliculties  litive  |irol)altly  arisen  from  the  sorond  growth  on  spots  that 
h!iv(!  (line  lireii  ('Ifarcd,  where  the  hamlioos  are  intertwined  so  as  to 
rfii(l(M'  the  woods  ahiiost  inipassahle,  and  this  has  no  doiiht  been  taken 
lor  the  prinieval  forest. 

The  nature  of  the  Hraziliaii  forest  will  ucconnt  for  so  little  being 
known  of  its  iiolany.  The  lre(!s  are  in  fact  inaecessiblo,  the  trunks 
luniig  from  seventy  to  one  hundriMl  feet  high,  before  the  bnux-hes 
ajijiear,  so  that  the  latter  cnii  only  be  got  at  by  telling.  The  view  of 
the  forest  is  truly  remarkable.  Trees  of  immense  growth  intermingled 
with,  others  of  less  size,  jiresenting  to  tlie  eyi;  the  most  singular  and 
fantastie  forms  imaginable.  The  roots  of  elimbing  plants,  dangling 
lietween  their  straight  trunks,  resembled  tin;  taekling  of  a  ship. 

A  little  incident  that  occurred  to  these  gentlemen  will  show  the 
dilliculties  to  be  encountered  in  obttiiniiig  siiecimens.  They  had 
observed  for  a  lew  da_\s  a  beautiful  yellow  flowering  tree,  that  was  very 
conspicuous  in  tiie  forest.  Heliisving  that  it  could  be  easily  come  at, 
they  made  the  altein|it  to  reach  it,  but  without  success,  finding  it, 
instead  of  being  low,  a  high  and  i  lacccssiblc  tree.  They  then  directed 
their  steps  to  others,  i)ut  were  (  isapjiointed  again.  Determined  not 
to  be  foiled  in  their  pursuit,  they  .igain  went  oil"  in  search  of  others  in 
sight;  these,  to  their  sur])rise,  wt^-e  on  the  opposite  side  of  a  river. 
Nothing  daunted,  .Mr.  Hrackenridge  crossed  it,  though  deep,  and 
endeavoured  to  scale  the  tree.  What  had  appeared  near  the  ground, 
now  i)roved  a  tree  of  some  sixty  feet  in  height,  with  a  smooth  and 
slippery  bark;  and  he  returned  to  his  companion  emjity-handed.  Dr. 
Pickering  next  made  the  attempt.  After  crossing  the  stream  with 
dilllculty,  he  reached  the  desired  object,  and  endcavf)ured  to  climb,  but 
after  reaching  some  forty  feet,  was  obliged  to  acknowledge  himself 
van(|uished.  They  continued  their  return,  and  when  near  Padre  Luiz's 
house,  they  ibund  a  small  tree  of  the  same  kind  they  had  been  searching 
for,  which  i)roved  to  be  a  species  of  Cmsalpinia. 

At  Padre  Lui/.'s  they  again  passed  the  night,  and  the  next  day 
endeavours  were  made  to  reach  one  of  the  pointed  peaks  of  the  Organ 
Mountains.  In  this  Dr.  Pickering  succeeded,  though  it  did  not  prove 
the  highest.  On  their  way  they  found  many  interesting  plants  ;  among 
them  the  Epijjhytic  Oreliidea',  slender  Cecropias,  rising  to  the  heiglit 
of  one  hundred  feet  without  a  limb,  arborescent  fern  trees  forty  feet  in 
height,  and  numerous  parasitical  plants  hanging  from  the  various  trees 
in  great  profusion;  Bromclias,  Flignonias,  Sec.  On  reaching  the  top,  he 
found  trees  stunted  and  gnarled  of  about  thirty  feet  in  height. 


H  I<»  J  AN  EIKO. 


73 


.ho  nrl^      !  '""r  "' "'"  '''^'""-'^^  '^''  ""^  "'•'^=^"-"  Flora  by 

ho  (n.,  (hat  when  .„o.„.fo.l  ia  the  treo-,.,,,  ho  ..olloc,,.!  specimens  of 

.h.^low.nn«  trees  not  before  seen,  an.l  throe  spod..  of '„,istIetoes. 

T      .s..„u  afternoon  they  reached  Es.rella.  f.nt  found  thoir gnide  had 
not  procnre(   anv  i)a«<sa'rf  Cnr  ili,....      'n        i  h""'^  '""' 

some  (bin,.,,!..  1..  ,         "  ''"^''  ''""'^^^'^r.  succeeded  affr 

sonic  d  (i.u.lty  n.  proeonng  one,  set  out  before  sunset,  and  reached  Rio 
ho  next  .nonnng  by  three  o'clock,  having  been  greatly  tor.nente  1  bv 

f::;:;:::  ;;:;;;;;: "  -rT'  '-'''^  ^-^  -e^nori^tro:;:;!'' 

..  dmg  that  the  repans  had  not  pro<-,eeded  so  rapi.lly  as  I  anticipated 
.oaddy  gave  penn-ss,..n  for  a  second  jaunt,  which  Ly  underto 
.ho  Crecfon  of  P.^-dade.     Piedade  is  on  the  eastern  side  o     ho     a 
nearly  oppos.e  to  Ks.n-ila.     On  landing,  they  proceeded  to  'it^ll 

""  '"V     "'?  '""""'-"'  «-"'<•"  -  froM.  Pieda.le.  where  travel  > 

may  get  good  lodgings,  .^r.,  for  Brazil.     The  next    lay  thov  to  -     1  e 
route  by  the  pass  to  Mr.  March's.    The  sunnnit  of  thispall 
a  .uagn.ficeu   and  extensive  prospect,  and  is  called  Bu.L  Vis^    T     y 
reached  , he  Fazeuda  of  Mr.  March  about  n.idday.     It  is  si  ua  ed  in  a 

rrrto  :::;;:MiZ:  r:z?i;t:;rT  ^"^ '-' 

.1  •  .        .,  ■n.t-.      I  ms  Lsiaic  IS  largo,  embraciiKr  somn 

^urty  u.,es  s,uare  but  only  a  very  small  proportio'n  of  it  is  c  Itiva 
A  largo  nmr^ber  of  negroes  were  about  the  establishment,  an     c     r v 

".g  .s    ept  „,  perfect  order.     It  is  a  place  of  fashionabi    '  so  t  fo^- 
he    m  ab.tants   of  Rio.   especially   the   English.     The  lo   "     ve 
-:  .iortablo  after  the  Rrazilian  stylo.     The  garden  and  grounds  no 
laul  out  on  the  English  plan,  and  well  stocked  with  ve,;  fl  e  n-uUs 
peaches,  appbs    pears,  ph.n.s.  gooseberries,  all  of  which     om      o 
pcrfccon.     Of    vegetables,   they   have    potatoes,   cabbag  ,   t  r nips 
cai rots,  boots,  on.ons.  parsnips,  celery,  and  lettuce.     Banana     J"ll    ot' 
npen    the  temperature  being  fre,,uently  as  low  as  40^.     Mr    M      , 
said  h.s  houses  w^re  situated  throe  thousand  one  hundred  and  'm^k^ 
Love  the  love   o    the  sea.  and  the  peaks  in  the  vicinity  are     bo      oro 
Lousand  feet  higher.     To  the  westward  he  pointed  out  a  peak       do 
1.0  o.ght  thousand  feet  in  altitude,  and  which   is  the  1  i^  o    t  o 
ange.     So  far  as  .s  known,  no  one  has  gained  the  summit, t^ou 
M..  Gardner,  an  English  botanist,  by  following  the  tracks  of  the   apF 

cl  reached  wulun  a  few  hun.lred  yards  of 'S,  after  two  da  V  S 
|hour,  and  f;.und  that  the  v.:,eta,ion  resen.bled  that  of^p  "  ' 
H, nates.  T.me  d.  not  adnut  of  o,n-  gentlemen  making  ,h  aTe 
All  that  could  be  done  was  to  ascend  the  hill  pointed  out  b  Mr" 
March,  u,  the  v.cinity  of  his  house,  as  never  having  been  ascLle  d  and 
winch  ,s  one  thou.^nd  two  hundred  feet  above  it.^^  This  w.     atot 


74 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


phshed,  although  with  difficuhy.  On  this  trip  they  met  with  fallen 
timber,  but  the  Brazilian  woods,  in  general,  were  remarked  as  bein" 
much  more  free  from  it  than  our  own.  No  change  in  the  vegetation 
was  observed.  The  route  through  this  pass  is  much  more  difficult  or 
travellers  than  that  of  Estrclla,  but  to  the  admirer  of  nature  mo^e 
intcrestmg.  From  the  base  to  the  summit  of  the  mountains  the  vir-iu 
forest  extends.  The  main  chain  here  is  much  broken;  the  peaks 
appear  more  m  the  form  of  columns  or  pipes,  and  are  quite  inaccessible, 
castmg  a  dark  shade  upon  the  deep  and  wooded  valleys  beneath.  After 
bemg  hospitably  entertained  they  came  back,  crossing  over  to  the 
island  of  Pagiieta.  where  they  had  an  opportunity  of  examining  the 
arge  heaps  of  the  shells  fished  Up  out  of  the  bay,  for  the  purpose  of 
burning  for  lime,  and  were  not  a  little  surprised  at  the  numbers  of 
ditierent  genera  which  composed  them. 

The  results  of  these  two  expeditions  were  the  addition  of  a  great 
number  of  very  interesting  plants  to  our  collection.  These  will  be 
treated  oi  in  the  Botanical  Report. 

A  few  days  before  oiu-  departm-e,  we  made  a  trip  to  the  top  of  the 
Corcovado.  The  naturalists,  who  were  of  our  party,  observed  that 
ahnost  a  total  change  had  taken  place  in  the  plants  since  their  last 
visit,  about  a  fortniglit  before.  I  took  with  me  the  necessary  instru- 
ments to  measure  its  height,  and  we  all  amused  ourselves  with 
collecting  plants,  insects,  lizards,  &c.  We  took  the  road  that  turns 
off  near  Gloria,  and  even  before  we  began  to  emerge  from  the  city, 
several  nove  kinds  of  ferns  were  observed  growing  on  the  house-tops 
and  walls.  We  soon  entered  coilee  plantations,  groves  of  bananas, 
tamarinds,  mangroves,  and  orange  trees.     A  vast  variety  of  plants 

ZTffTTu"'  '"-T".  ^'^  ^^'-  I^'--ke-i'^Se.  among  them  the 
beautiful  Vochysia,  with  its  splendid  yellow  blossoms,  showing  con- 
spicuous  among  the  rest.  After  a  fatiguing  walk  we  reached  the  top. 
The  last  quarter  of  a  mile,  or  the  last  rise  to  its  summit,  causes  one  to 
become  somewhat  breathless  in  a  hot  day;  but  when  the  top  is  gained 
It  IS  worth  all  the  labour  of  climbing,  and  amj^Iv  repays  for  the 
exertion.  '    -^ 

The  whole  of  the  magnificent  harbour,  the  city  and  environs,  lav 
beneath  our  feet.  A  bird's-eye  view  is  had  of  every  thing,  grouped 
m  the  most  pleasing  variety;  and  nothing  strikes  one  so  forcibly  as 
the  whue  sandy  beaches  of  Botofogo  and  Praya  Grande,  with  the 
beau  iful  blue  of  the  sea  washing  on  them.  The  many  lakes,  the 
castellated  peaks  and  the  variously  shaped,  craggy,  and  broken  hills, 
are  all  softened  by  the  light  and  airy  green  vegetation,  creeping  up 
their  sides  so  as  to  melt  them  almost  into  one.     The  harbour  was 


RIO    JANEIRO. 


75 


covered  with  its  busy  and  now  tiny  fleets,  and  many  of  its  large  islands 
looked  as  but  specks  on  its  flat  surface.  The  day  was  beautifully 
clear,  and  the  refreshing  sea-breeze  just  what  we  could  desire.  The 
tower  and  observatory  have  been  destroyed.  To  form  an  idea  of  the 
beauty  of  Rio  and  its  environs,  it  is  necessary  to  mount  to  the  top  of 
the  Corcovado,  or  some  liigh  peak  in  its  neighbourhood. 

After  finishing  our  observations,  and  fully  satisfying  ourselves  witli 
the  beautiful  scene,  we  descended  to  the  Belle  Rue,  where  we  enjoyed 
a  rest  and  lunch.  We  returned  to  the  city  by  the  way  of  the  Aqueduct 
kite  in  the  afternoon,  all  greatly  delighted  with  our  day's  jaunt,  which, 
beside  the  amusement,  had  proved  quite  a  profitable  one  in  the  way  of 
collections. 


-cr-^iT 


SLAVES    SLEEPINQ. 


the 


CHAPTER  IV. 


CONTENTS. 

CHARACTER  OF  THE  DRAZILIAN3-CO\STITUTIOV  OF  THE  EMPIRE-RUMNft  PARTY- 
ELECTIVE  RECEWY-ADMINISTRATIOIV  OF  JUSTICE-ELECTIVE  FRANCHISE-AUMY 
-  NAVY  -  SCHOOLS  -  SLAVERY  -  FEELmo  TOWARDS  FOREIGNERS  -  POPULATION- 
NATIONAL  DEDT,  REVENUE.  AND  EXPENDITURES  -  COMMERCE  -  EVENTS  IN  THE 
SQUADRON-DEPARTURE  FROM  RIO. 


(77) 


I 


CHAPTER  IV. 

POLITICAL    STATE    OF   BRAZIL. 

1838. 

DoRiNG  my  stay  at  Rio,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  seoinr^  several 
.ntelligent  gentlemen,  who  had  long  been  residents  of  the  country  I 
am  ntdebted  to  them  for  much  information  relative  to  the  political 
state  of  tins  empire.  Brazil,  though  quiet  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  will 
long  be  cestined  to  outbreaks  and  alarms,  either  from  local  oppression 
or  some  shght  political  movements.  The  people  for  the  most  part 
take  very  httle  interest  in  politics,  or  in  the  general  welfare  of  the 
s  ale.  As  yet,  their  habits  make  the.n  averse  to  mental  exertions,  and 
tiioy  generally  prefer  their  own  ease,  which  precludes  them  from 
engaging  m  political  excitement.  They  are  not  y.t  sufficiently 
advanced  m  civilization  and  education,  so  for  as  regards  the  mass  of 
the  population,  to  rise  from  the  mental  degradation  which  the  policy 
01  the  motiier  country  entailed  upon  them. 

The  Brazilians,  from  the  character  I  have  received  of  them,  are 
very  ceremonious  and  punctilious,  susceptible  of  flatterv,  suspicious 
yet  courteous,  selfish,  cunning;  assuming  frankness  and  generosity, 
tnn.d,  unsteacly  in  imrposo,  and  without  any  large  and  comprehensive 
views.  What  is  claime.l  from  tiiem  as  a  right  in  a  bold  and  confident 
manner,  is  readily  yielded,  while  often  through  their  ignorance  they 
become  presumptuous.  "^ 

The  people  are  farther  advanced  in  morals  and  intelligence  than 
heir  government,  but  as  yet  they  are  not  sulRciently  enlightened  to 
know  their  power.     They  are  slow  to  act,  and  appear  very  patient 
under  oppression.     Long  endurance  of  despotism  has  made  them  so. 

1  ho  new  constitution  was  adopted  in  1825.  This  secured  the 
legislative  power  from  further  interruption,  and  achieved  a  complete 
victory  over  the  bayonets  and  tyranny  of  Don  Pedro,  by  forcing  him, 
through  the  threats  of  the  people  and  his  fears,  to  grant  a  more  liberal 

(79) 


I 


80 


()  r.  I  TIC  A  I,    STAT 


O  V    II  R  A  Z  I  I-. 


I 


(■oiisliliitioii.  I'dliliciil  iVocdoiii  souiiiH  to  Iijivo  iriado  nipid  .idvaiino- 
iiiLMil  tlirminli  ilio  iVucdom  of  flu;  ]tr(;ss,  and  llui  vi)i<;()  (>l'lil)(!rly  inay  bo 
said  to  UiivL-  Im'oii  heard.    At  (irsl  it.  was  lislonud  to  with  ajiin'chcnsions, 


v\hli 


and  lis  nicaiiiiii^  liiit  inipcikM^tly  iiiidiM-stdod.  /MinoiiLfii  many  years 
Jiavt;  since  passed,  the  iic()[)le  have  HeanHily  nii.re  lh;n>  lu-'ifun  lo  iin;l 
tluit  tliey  possess  indivichial  rights,  and  for  the  most  part  yield  a  liliiid 
obedienee  to  the  laws.  'I'his  is  true  as  respects  tlu;  population  of  the 
S(!aports;  but  in  tiu;  country,  the  poi)ulali(»n  biiiiiif  sparse,  <;onnnniii- 
calion  of  tsvery  kind  is  dillicult,  and  social  intercoiu'se  end)arrassed  by 
early  habits  and  customs.  The  advantages  of  a  Jree  and  rre(|uent 
intcrclian'j;e  o|  scniiments  are  in  coiiseijueiice  almost  (.-ntirely  unknown. 
A  long  time  will  probably  elapsi;  before  there  will  be  any  iMililical 
.struggle  among  ihem,  'I'hey  are  })rospering  in  their  private  concerns, 
and  contented  without  any  ambition  to  advance  lli(!mselvt!s  in  political 
)\':,owlcdge,  or  to  meddle  with  the  (Muicerns  of  the  government,  except 
in  their  local  o]ieration.  The  state  of  society  in  the  interior  is  very 
nuiidi  of  this  character,  and  (;()nse([nently  the  alliiirs  of  the  country 
liave  sulllued  litth;  derangement  from  the  dilliculties  which  have 
occurred,  and  mid-administration  under  the;  dillerent  sovereigns  who 
liav(!  held  rule  for  the  last  thirty  years.  Tlirougb  jjart  of  this  time  a 
rapid  decline  was  experienced  in  the  national  iirosperity,  which  led  to 
the  abdication  of  the  late  PiUiperor  Pedro  I. 

The  whole  ]»olitical  maciiine  by  which  the  government  is  adminis- 
tered is  uncouth  and  awkward,  being  composed  of  a  mixture  of  feudal 
notions  with  the  riilinements  of  modern  times.  It  is  moved  and 
sustained  more  by  the  liabit  of  obeying  the  laws,  than  by  skill  and 
judgmen\  in  administering  them.  Then;  is  an  (!utire  absence  of  all 
force,  mora!  as  well  as  physical,  to  sustain  the  government;  yet  to 
this  in  a  great  measure  is  it  to  be  jiscribed,  that  the  country  has  not 
become  a  prey  to  anartdiy  and  confusion.  C()nd)ined  with  the  above 
cansi's,  is  the  jealousy  that  exists  among  the  ]>arlii's  who  have  l)een 
called  to  ollice,  and  which  prevents  self-aggrandizement.  I'retensions 
have  been  at  times  asserted,  dangerous  to  public  fran(|nillity  ana 
•  hreatcning  the  subversion  of  the  established  order  of  things.  'I'hese 
have  betMi  jiromoted  by  the  disallecti-d  and  discontented,  iuinci|Killv 
coniposcd  of  or  counti-uanced  by  those  pcMsons  who,  aflei-  the  depar- 
tiu-e  of  Don  I'edro  I,,  remained  in  the  country,  and  who,  having  lost 
their  importance  with  their  ollices,  retin-ned  lo  private  lile,  with  their 
pride  wounded,  their  fortunes  and  reputation  impaired  and  injured, 
and  themselves  dissatislied  with  their  condition.  These  persons  have 
sought  every  occasion  lo  disturb  the  even  (un'rent  of  events,  and  Ic 
array  themselves  against  the  power  of  the  state,  wielded  us  they  deem 


id  advaiKio- 
(!rly  iriiiy  bo 
|)rc!lionsi()iis, 
many  years 
otfiiii  to  f(;(!l 
,  icid  a  Itliiid 
atinii  ol"  iIk; 
;,  I'ohiiniini- 
ian'ass(3(l  hy 
iid  iVo(|ii(;iit 
ly  iiiikiinwii. 
iiy  jMililical 
lo  concerns, 
i  in  iiiilitical 
noiit,  except 
rior  is  very 
the  country 
.vliic'li  liave 
iroigiis  wiio 
tills  time  a 
viiifh  led  to 

is  adiniiiis- 
ro  of  foudal 
moved  and 
ly  skill  and 
ionce  of  all 
ent ;  yet  to 
try  lias  not 
1  tlio  aiiove 
liuvc  l)een 
I'n'trnsions 
luillifv  ana 
,!,'s.  Tlu^se 
liriiicipally 
•  1 1 10  d('|i;ir- 
lla\•ill^f  lost 
,  w  ill)  tlieir 
nd  iiijnn>d, 
rsons  have 
iits,  and  Ic 
they  deem 


POLITICAL    STATR    OF    BRAZIL.  g, 

ihi;  l;:S:^^"  "^"^^'^^'""  ^^  ^"^  -^^'  p--^-^-^  -  hitherto 

TheTZ''-    f  T'-^^^'^'''^"  ^^«  ""t   wanting  to  produce  discontent. 
They  are  mdeed  numerous,  and  among  them  are   a   total  want  of 
justice  ,n  the  administration  of  the  laws;  the  neglect  of  all  petitions 
for  political   reform   and   the   remedy  of  abuses;   the  onerou     a  d 
.njunous  regulations  imposed  by  the  government;  and  the  haughty 
conduct    and   absolute  power  of  those  who  hold   otfice.     Notvvith 
•standing  all  these  discouragements,  well-informed  residents  nercJive 
an  improvement  within  the  last  few  years,  on  the  part  of  the  gove  n! 
.nent  and  of  the  people  also.     The  establishment  of  a  public  prls  las 
had  Its  eflect  m  producing  this  change,  by  enlightening  the  public 
.nmd  and  will  gradually  acquire  the  same  control  here  tha^it  exercises 
dsewhere;  and  education  is  better  attended  to  than  it  used  to  be 
although  as  yet  it  is  far  in  the  background. 

According  to  the  best   information,  the  j  resent  government   was 
osta  hshed  by  and  is  under  th.  guidance  of,  a  few'leadinT  1,7 " 
sma.1   party  in  Rio,  who  manage  all  the  political  concerns  of  t'he 
empire.     They  seem  to  act  without  any  desire  of  personal  aggrandiz  ! 
men  ,  and  apparently  without  ambition  to  be  distinguished  btyond  d  e 
circle  of  their  party.      From   what   has   already\een   said  o 
interior  and  the  character  of  its  inhabitants,  it  will  be  seen  that  th    e 
IS  no  great  diflicuhy  in  managing  the  provinces  by  means  of  a  few 
influential  men,  and  thus  the  whole  power  seems  concentrated  wi.^^ 
1;  desire       '  "'"'^  "  '^  "^^  '"^  '''''''  ^^'"^"^  ^^  ^^e  issue  that  the; 
It  was.this  party  which  overthrew  or  effected  the  reform  in  the  con- 
stitution under  Don  Pedro  I.  in  1823,  an.l  established  the  now  C  tr    s 
nsisting  of  a  senator  al  body  of  fifty,  who  were  chosen  for  llt^r^ 
of  on    hundred  deputies,  for  three  years.     The  reformed  cons Siti  n 
provided  that  the  succession    should    devolve  on  the   eldest  T:^ 
Podro  I.,  during  whose  minority  there  should  be  three  regents  chosen 

Things  went  on  badly  after  the  beginning  of  the  new  order  of 
g^^vernment,  principally  in  consequence  of^the  disastrous  Sn.h 
Onental  war,  which  caused  a  great  sacrifice  of  money  and  resou  s 
deranged  he  currency,  and  involved  the  nation  in  dell  I„  islTDon 
Pdro  abdicated  the  throne,  and  went  to  Europe;  the  regency  ^ame 
into  pow^er,  and  this  band  of  leading  men  formed  themservesLo^n 
opposition    to  the   government.     They  succeeded   in   r^T"o2 

T2:l:tT'T '''''''' '-''''  ^'^^  ""-^^  -.ents  for  life,  s2tit: 
on       e  ted  for  four  years,  and  introducing  a  federal  system,  which 


82 


p o  I- 1  Ti c;  A  I.  s  r  A  1'  i;  o  f  brazil. 


gives  the  in-ovimtcs  the  right  of  local  Icgisliiturcs  to  regulate  their  pro- 
vhicial  coiifeniH,  iiKlei-enilently  of  the  general  government. 

The  manner  in  which  the  reforms  in  the  constitution  were  cllectcd, 
will  give  some   insight   into  the   mode  of   conducting   business,  and 
exhibits  the  power  of  this  party.     The  plans,  after  being  long  under 
discussion  in  the  Chamber  of  Deputies,  were  referred  to  a  committee 
of  that  body,  who  reported  upon  them,  and  they  were  finally  passed, 
under  a  <lecision  by  the  Chambers  that  the  Senate  and  Regency  had 
no  right  to  vote,  control,  or  even  deliberate  upon  the  (lucstion.     They 
thus  assumed  to  themselves  the  whole  power  of  legislative  action  on 
so  momentous  a  subject,  totally  disregarding  the  constitutional  claims 
of  the  other  co-ordinate  and  co-e(iual  branches  of  the  government, 
whose  coni'-urrencc  was  necessary  to  legalize  all  their  acts  under  the 
constitution,  and  whose  outhority  was  then  in  vigour,  and  could  not  be 
suspended,  although  it  was  susceptible  of  modification  in  the  proper 
form.     This  subject  was  reconunended  to  the  attention  of  the  people 
in  1833,  with  a  view  to  party  action  on  it;  and  new  elections  were 
ordered,  for  the  purpose  of  deliberating  upon  a  new  constitution.     But 
from  some  circumstances,  the  regents  wore  not  willing  to  accede  to 
the   measure,   after   it  had   jjassed   the   forms   of  legislation   in   the 
Chamber  of  Deputies ;  they  steadfastly  adhered  to  the  determination 
of  withholding  their  sanction  to  the  law,  opposing  all  terms  of  com- 
promise.    For  a  long  time  the  tramiuillity,  if  not  the  destiny  of  the 
country,  was  in  jeojiardy.     The  regents  were  finally,  as  was  supposed, 
and  generally  believed,   brought   over  by   pecuniary  considerations. 
The  Senate  also  iMcnbctually  atlemptod  to  interpose  a  protest  against 
the  measure  (the  election  of  a  regent  to  hold  office  for  four  yc^rs),  not 
only  to  sustain  their  dignity  but  maintain  their  rights;  neither  was 
it  satisfactory  to  the  jjcople  generiUly,  nor  to  the  national  guard,  who 
it  was  well  known  would  have  siijiported  the  regents  in  their  oppo- 
sition.    All  impediments,  however,  to  the  passage  of  this  favourite  and 
imj)ortant  measure,  were  overcome  by  the  power  and  management 
of  this  band  of  leading  men,  who  contrived  to  unite  with  them  the 
most  opposite  characters,  and  to  neutralize  personal  animosity,  as  well 
as   party  strife,  absorbing  all  other  subjects,  and  enlisting   them   in 
support  of  ibis  measure.     They  thus  clearly  manilested  their  influence, 
in  being  able  to    set  aside    constitutional  restraints,  overcoming  the 
executive  power,  and  controlling  the  senatorial  aristocracy. 

The  new  constitution  seems  to  operate  satisfactcn'ily  under  these 
leaders.  There  are,  however,  some  features  in  it  which  give  its 
warmest  friends  many  fears  respecting  the  stability  of  the  government. 
One  of  these  is  the  difliculty  of  making  the  provincial  legislatures 


P  O  T,  I  T  I  (;  A  T,    STAT 


E    OF    BRAZIL. 


tlieir  pro- 

!  c  Hoc  ted, 
ricss,  and 
ng  under 
omniitfeo 
ly  passed, 
;cncy  had 
n.     Thoy 
action  on 
al  claims 
vernincnt, 
under  the 
uld  not  be 
be  proper 
ilic  people 
ions  were 
ion.     But 
accede  to 
)n   in   the 
n'lnination 
3  of  com- 
iny  of  the 

supposed, 
iderations. 
3st  against 
r'ejrs),  not 
;itlier  was 
uard,  who 
heir  oppo- 
ourite  and 
inagcment 

them  the 
ty,  as  well 
;  them  in 
■  influence, 
oming  the 

idcr  these 
1  give  its 
jvernnient. 
cgislatures 


83 


work  harmoniously  with  the  general  government.  Great  stress  is, 
however,  laid  upon  the  .-hnracter  of  the  Brazilians,  who  are  disin- 
chned  to  change,  and  upon  their  habits  of  obedience  to  the  laws  and 
constituted  authority.  This  gives  a  well-grounderl  hope  for  the 
peaceful  and  onward  march  of  the  public  prosperity  under  the  new 
constitution. 

Evory  exertion  is  making  to   give   the   young   Emperor   a   good 
education,  and  his  talents  are  well  spoken  of. 

The  regulation  of  the  currency  has  continued  to  claim  the  attention 
of  the  government,  as  involving  the   most  important  questions,  and 
those   hkely  to    bring  about    dilhcultics.      Some    apprehensions   are 
entertained  that  the  local  governments  may  apply  a  remc/ty  them- 
selves.     Tn  the  Chamber  of  Deputies,  all  money-bills  ..i^nnate,  but  the 
Senate   may   amend    them.      All    laws   must   be   sanctioned   by  the 
Emperor  after  having  jiassed  both  branches  of  the  lerrislature     In 
c^se  of  disagreement  between  the  two  houses,  the  meml,ers  unite  in 
the  Senate  chamber,  and   the  .[ucsfion  is  decided  by  a  majority  of 
votes      There  are  no  doubt  many  sources  of  discord,  but  they  are  not 
fully  known  by  any,  except  the  principal  actors,  and  few  are  aware 
how  the  anairs  of  the  kingdom  are  going  on.     At  this  time  (1R38  and 
30)  all  those  acquainted  with  the  people  and  government  considered 
the  whole  king.lom  in  a  prerarious  state:  the  administration  at  Rio 
Janeiro  was  believed  to  be  unpopular,  while  some  of  the  provinces 
evinced  a  strong   disposition  to   join  with   that   of  Rio   Grande   in 
revolution.      Rut  this  cannot   succeed.      Rio,  with  its   situation  and 
commercial  advantages,  must  and  always  will  have  the  ascendency  in 
one  way  or  other,  will  contrr.l  its  resources,  and  must  be  tlie  sent  of 
government  of  this  empire. 

The  administration  of  justice  is  confided  to  two  hirrh  tribunals 
which  are  open  to  the  public,  nnd  where  causes  are  decided  on  appeal 
by  a  majority  of  the  judges. 

These  tribunnls  are,  first,  the  Jlchqho,  of  which  there  are  two 
branches,  one  at  Rio  and  the  other  at  Rahia,  each  composed  of  ci^ht 
judges.  Second,  the  Suin-eme  Tribunal  of  Justice,  of  twelve  \u<]<rc. 
The  inferior  courts  are  those  for  the  trial  of  civil  and  criminal  cm^c« 
an  Orphans'  Court,  and  a  Court  and  .Judge  of  Findings  and  T.o.in-." 
the  last  of  which  is  not  yet  abolished,  however  obsolete  it  mnv  have 
become.  Great  corruption  exists  in  them  all.  and  no  class  of  people 
are  so  unpopular  as  the  judges.  It  is  gencrallv  believed,  and  the 
belief  IS  acted  upon,  that  to  obtain  justice,  all  clnsvps  including  priests 
and  laymen,  lawyer  and  client,  legislators  and  people,  re-'ents  and 
mimsters.nm.t  submit  to  groat  imposition :  thnt  it  is  next  to  Trnpossible 


84 


POLITICAL    S  r  A  I  i:    t »  |-    II  K  A  /.  i  L 


to  rc(!over  a  diibt  by  law  except  througli  brihcry.  li'  a  debtor  lias 
money  or  ptilronage,  an<l  rofuses  to  pny,  it  is  ilillicult  to  oldain  tbo 
payment  even  of  an  acknowledged  note  of  hand  ilirougli  the  process 
of  the  law,  and  it  generally  takes  years  to  accomplish. 

It  is,  however,  greatly  to  the  praise  of  the  Brazilians,  that  it  is  not 
Dften  necessary  to  have  recourse  to  law  for  this  purpos.-.  The 
greatest  injustice  occurs  in  the  Orphans'  Court;  but  the  (>ourt  of 
Findings  and  Losings  is  one  of  the  most  singular  in  this  respect.  It 
takes  charge  of  all  things  lost  and  found,  n\aking  it  the  duty  of  a 
person  finding  any  thing  to  deposit  it  with  the  judge.  The  loser,  to 
prove  property,  must  have  three  witnesses  to  swear  that  they  saw  him 
lose  it,  and  three  others,  that  they  saw  the  finder  pick  it  up,  otherwise 
it  remains  in  deposit.  To  show  the  wi  iking  of  this  system,  a  gentle- 
man of  Rio  found  a  bank-note  of  four  hundred  milrees  (about  ijSiiSO). 
The  owner  went  to  him  and  claimed  it,  i)roving  siitisliictorily  to  the 
finder  that  the  identical  bank-note  was  his,  upon  which  the  finder  gave 
it  up.  The  Judge  of  Find:ngs  and  Losings  iioard  of  the  circunisluncx', 
sent  for  him,  and  asked  a  statement  of  the  case,  which  the  finder 
unsuspectingly  related.  The  judge  i)raiscd  his  honourable  conduct, 
and  was  punctiliously  polite.  Tiie  next  day,  however,  he  issued  an 
order  for  the  deposit  of  the  .uoMey  found;  and  because  it  was  disre- 
garded, the  finder,  a  respectable  foreign  merchant,  was  arrested  in  the 
street  and  sent  to  prison,  to  I  o  coniincd  with  common  criminals.  The 
jailer,  however,  having  private  apartments  for  those  who  could  pay 
for  them,  he  bccanno  his  guest,  and  was  preservi'd  from  the  disgust  of 
being  a  close  pristu'er,  and  the  companion  of  degraded  and  depraved 
wretches.  Before  ne  could  legaiii  his  liberty,  he  had  to  pay  the 
amount  found,  the  decision  being  the  forfeiture  oi'  a  like  sum,  together 
with  the  jailer's  fees,  &c. 

The  justices  of  the  peace  for  each  district  are  elected  by  the  people, 
four  at  a  time,  to  serve  as  many  years  by  turns,  substituting  one  for 
the  other,  when  sickness  or  other  circumstances  prevent  either  from 
serving.  They  have  final  judgments  in  amounts  not  exceeding  sixteen 
milrees.  In  cases  of  civil  [irocess,  they  act  as  mediators  to  ell'ecl  a 
compromise  and  reconcile  dilliculties.  Their  jjolitical  attributes  are  to 
preserve  the  peace  in  case  of  riot  or  disorder  among  the  people,  and 
they  have  a  right  to  call  on  the  nati(jual  guard  or  military  police  to 
aid  them,  who  must  act  under  their  direction.  There  is  no  civil 
police,  and  no  imprisonment  for  debt.  Trial  by  jury  was  at  first 
limited  to  political  ofibnces  and  violations  of  the  liberty  of  the  i)ress, 
but  it  is  now  extended  to  criminal  cases,  and  in  some  instances  to 
civil  suits.     Sixty  persons  compose  the  jury,  and  lorty  are  necessary 


POLITICAL  STATE  OF  BRAZIL, 


80 


to  try  cnnscs.  The  juiz  do  dccrito  ( judgo  of  law)  sits  with  them  in 
I'oiirt,  aclH  as  president,  and  applies  the  law  to  the  cases  the  jury  may 
decide.  Jurymen  serve  for  onv  year,  and  are  chosen  in  flic  following 
manner.  In  each  district  the  vigairo  (vicar),  a  justice  of  the  peace 
and  a  member  of  the  municipality,  select  from  a  list  of  male  pa- 
rishioners, those  qualiiicd  in  their  judgment  for  jurymen,  and  submit 
the  names  to  the  municiptility,  who,  a'^sistcd  by  the  vigairo  and  justice 
of  the  peace,  purge  the  list  of  such  as  may  bo  considered  improper 
persons.  It  is  then  officially  communicated  by  the  municipality  to 
the  justice  of  the  peace,  and  posted  up  for  public  inspection  in  the  office, 
and  on  the  doors  of  the  parish  churches  throughout  the  district. 

To  entitle  any  one  to  vote  at  an  election,  ho  must  have  an  income 
of  two  hundred  milreos  per  annum  from  property,  trade,  labour  or 
employment  of  any  kind.  The  vigairo  sits  with  the  judges  at  elections 
to  decide  on  the  qualifications  of  voters.  Friars  or  members  of 
religious  fraternities  are  not  entitled  to  a  vote.  Free  blacks  have  all 
llio  civil  rights,  and  vote  at  elections  the  same  as  white  men. 

The  attorncy.gcneral  of  the  nation  is  the  accuser  in  all  criminal 
••ascs.     Criminals  have  the  right  of  counsel. 

It  may  l)e  said  that  there  is  no  standing  army  in  Brazil,  for  the  few 
troops  do  not  merit  that  name.  A  military  staff  on  n  large  scale  is 
■■ii;i|i(.rtc(l,  with  a  large  corps  of  military  police,  and  a  national  guard. 
The  national  guard  is  organized  by  law,  and  in  it  all  males  from 
•ighteen  to  forty-five  years  of  age  are  enrolled.  They  are  equipped 
If  their  own  cost,  the  nation  furnishing  arms  and  ammunition  only. 
Detachments  of  this  guard  are  on  duty  daily  at  the  palace  and  public 
offices. 

The  navy  is  not  effective  ;  they  want  seamen,  and  are  not  likely  to 
have  any,  A  naval  academy  is  estalilishcd  for  the  education  of  cadets 
nr  midshipmen.  Here  they  enter  at  twelve  years  of  age,  receiving 
some  of  the  first  rudiments  of  education,  and  remain  four  years. 
After  passing  an  examination,  they  are  sent  to  sea,  serve  there  four 
years,  and  if  found  qualified  are  then  promoted  to  second  lieutenants. 

The  military  academy  they  enter  later,  remain  seven  years,  passing 
through  various  courses  of  study,  and  if  found  competent,  they  are 
made  lieutenants.  From  what  I  understood,  the  system  of  education 
is  very  imperfect. 

Schools  for  educating  the  people  have  been  established,  and  the 
female  sex  are  now  allowed  to  be  educated. 

Agriculture  is  extending ;  and  the  slave  trade,  since  the  treaty  with 
England,  has  been  prohibited:  l)ut  large  numbers  of  slaves  are  still 
easily  smuggled,  by  the  connivance  of  the  authorities,  and  althougn 
(I 


86 


POLITICAL    8TATK    OF    BRAZIL. 


many  aro  capturod  by  Brilisli  cruisuisi,  yoi  it  is  sakl  that  more  tiian 
ono  half  o!"  tho  vossoIh  escapo,  and  smuggle  tho  slaves  into  the  small 
rivors  and  harbours,  bribing  tho  colloctors,  wiio  permit  them  to  be 
landed.  Ai'ler  landing,  the  slaves  aro  driven  into  the  woods,  where 
they  aro  secreted  until  they  aro  sold  to  tho  planters  in  the  interior. 

The  slaves  do  not  increase,  as  procreation  is  prevented  as  much 
as  possible.  The  two  sexes  arc  generally  locked  up  at  night  in 
separate  apartments.  The  number  of  slaves  imported  into  Rio  and 
Bahia  previous  to  the  prohibitiun  of  the  slave  trade  in  1830,  was 
about  forty  thousand  a  year  for  the  former,  and  ten  thousand  for  tlie 
latter,  as  follows : 


1828 
1829 
1830 


half  year 


RIO. 

41,913 
40,0 1 -> 
29,777 


BAIIIA. 

8,8G0 

12,808 

8,588 


About  one-third  of  these  were  lost  by  death,  leaving  two-thirds  as 
an  accession  to  the  labour  of  tho  country. 

The  number  annually  imported  since  1830,  contrary  to  law,  is 
estimated  at  seven  to  ten  thousand. 

In  speaking  of  the  apprehensi(jn  of  a  rise  of  the  blacks  in  the  pro- 
vinces, tho  well-informed  seemed  to  entertain  no  kind  of  fear  of  such  an 
event.  I  was  told  that  Bahia  was  the  only  point  at  which  insurrections 
were  ever  likely  to  occur,  and  this  was  from  the  prevalence  of  the 
Mina  slaves,  who  are  very  intelligent,  and  capable  of  forming  organized 
bodies,  which  they  occasionally  have  done,  Tho  slaves  of  the  other 
provinces  are  of  a  mixed  character,  incapable  of  any  organization,  and 
from  having  been  taken  from  diHereat  tribes  on  tho  coast,  they  are 
more  or  less  hostile  to  each  other,  and  would  bo  opposed  to  any  such 
union. 

The  Brazilians  have  great  respect  for  foreigners  who  are  not 
Portuguese.  The  latter  aro  detested.  They  have  a  strong  bias  in 
favour  of  the  United  States  and  the  American  government  generally. 
They  think  the  time  is  approaching  which  will  unite  the  people  of  this 
continent  in  a  distinct  national  policy,  in  contra-distinction  to  that  of 
Europe,  and  in  rivalry  to  it.  They  are  vain  of  tiieir  own  country  and 
its  institutions,  and  firmly  believe  that  a  high  destiny  awaits  Brazil. 
The  government,  in  its  political  relations  with  other  countries,  is 
seemingly  confiding  and  liberal. 

The  population  of  the  empire,  taking  the  last  returns  of  the  members 
of  the  Chamber  of  Deputies  as  a  guide,  is  estimated  at  five  millions. 
No  census  has  yet  been  talon,  but  it  is  thought  to  e.Kceed  this  number. 
The  scrutiny  formerly  exercised  by  the  government  into  their  domestic 


uorc  tiiaii 
I  thu  small 
icm  to  be 
)ils,  vvhorc 
tciior. 

aa  much 
t  iiigiit  in 
)  Rio  and 
1830,  was 
lid  for  the 


)-thirds  as 

to  law,  is 

ill  the  pro- 
of such  ail 
iurroctioiisi 
ice  of  the 
organized 
the  other 
zation,  and 
,  they  are 
I  any  such 

3  are  not 
i)g  bias  in 
generally. 
)plc  of  this 
to  that  ol' 
juntry  and 
lits  Brazil, 
untries,  is 

e  members 
e  millions, 
is  number, 
r  domestic 


P  O  L  I  T  I  C  A  L   8  T  A  T  K   (M'    B  R  A  Z  I  I,.  g-f 

affairs,  it  is  m'u\,  mmoA  them  to  conconl  flic  nctiml  nnmbor  of  persons 
in  their  families.  Of  the  above  number,  nboiit  two  millions  are  slaves. 
No  estimate  has  been  made  of  the  proportion  which  free  blacks, 
mnlattocs,  or  Indians  bear  to  the  whites  or  to  each  other.  The  rolntivc 
nnmbor  of  slaves  varies  much  in  tho  ditrercnt  provinces  ;  it  is  largest  in 
Rio  do  .Tanoiro  and  the  Minas  Geraes.  Tho  population  of  Rio  in  1810 
was  estimated  at  forty  thousand,  in  I8.S8  it  was  two  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand.  In  Appendix  XXI.  will  bo  found  a  statement  of  the  popula- 
tion that  may  bo  considered  somi-oOicial. 

The  national  debt  of  Brazil  amounts  to  one  hundred  million  milrees, 
or  sixty  million  dollars.  The  revenue  was  about  sixteen  millions  of 
dollars  for  1838.  It  is  derived  principally  from  exports  and  imports. 
A  statement  of  the  quantities  of  produce  exported  in  the  above  year, 
will  be  found  in  Appendix  XXII.  1  was  not  able  to  obtain  those  of  the 
imports.  The  expenditures  of  the  government  are  fixed  by  law  at 
about  the  same  sum.    All  appropriations  arc  specific. 

The  imports  amounted  to  over  twenty  millions  of  dollars.  The 
amoimt  of  exports  is  variously  stated.  Cofllje  is  the  great  staple,  and 
more  than  one  hundred  and  twenty  millions  of  pounds  were  exported 
in  1838.  It  is  derived  from  the  central  provinces,  and  the  exports  of 
it  have  more  than  doubled  within  the  last  ten  years.  The  exports  of 
the  southern  provinces  are  mostly  confined  to  hides  and  tallow ;  those  of 
the  northern,  to  sugar,  cotton,  and  tobacco. 

The  trade  with  the  United  States  has  greatly  increased.  Within  the 
last  few  years,  from  one  hundred  and  sixty  to  one  hundred  and  seventy 
American  vessels  take  and  bring  cargoes  to  and  from  the  United 
States,  and  some  foreign  vessels  are  engaged  in  the  same  trade.  The 
consumption  of  American  flour  in  Rio  and  the  neighbouring  country, 
has  been  during  the  same  year,  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand 
barrels. 

The  state  of  this  country  and  the  southern  republics,  renders  it 
highly  necessary  that  a  suitable  naval  force  should  be  employed  on 
this  coast  for  the  protection  of  our  increasing  trade. 

The  currency  of  the  country  is  in  paper  and  copper.  Gold  and 
silver  coins  are  articles  of  traflic,  and  fluctuate  in  value :  few  or  none 
of  these  are  in  circulation.  The  bank  issues  notes  of  milrees,  which 
also  fluctuate.  The  usual  value  of  a  milrec  is  from  sixty  to  seventy 
cents.     One  thousand  five  hundred  rics  are  equal  to  a  dollar. 

Printed  books  of  all  kinds  are  allowed  to  be  brought  into  the  country. 
Those  of  foreign  origin  arc  not  under  censorship. 

The  great  drawback  to  the  fiirility  of  liusiness  is  the  number  of 
holidays   on   which    the   cnstoin-liniixe    is    closed,    and    all    busines? 


I 


88 


POLITICAL  STATE  OF  BRAZIL, 


suspended.     These  amount  to  about  one  hundred  days  in  tlie  year 
These  hoHdays  are  a  great  alleviation  to  the  labour  of  the  slave. 

Foreign  merchants  reside  in  the  country,  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  city. 

During  our  stay  in  Rio,  George  Smith,  a  seaman,  while  employed 
on  board  of  one  of  the  lighters  in  charge  of  Midshipman  May,  fell 
overboard  and  was  accidentally  struck  with  an  oar;  Midshipman  May, 
in  a  praiseworthy  manner,  jumped  overboard  to  his  relief,  but  did  not 
succeed  in  saving  him,  for  he  sank  immediately  and  was  drowned. 

The  delays  in  Rio  hod  no  effect  upon  the  general  health  of  the 
s(iuadron,  although  I  was  fearful  such  might  be  the  case,  not  only 
from  the  heat  of  the  climate,  but  t!ie  copious  draughts  of  aguardiente 
with  which  the  foreigners  supply  the  sailors. 

I  found  it  necessary  hero  to  increase  the  crews  of  the  ships,  and 
aj)plicd  to  Commodore  Nicolson,  commander  on  the  Brazil  station,  for 
that  purpose.  Thirty  men  were  supplied  the  squadron.  They  were 
the  most  indifferent  and  worthless  set,  with  two  or  three  exceptions, 
wc  ever  had  on  board.  They  were  almost  the  only  persons  attached 
to  the  vessels  on  whom  it  became  necessary  to  inflict  punishment. 

The  markets  are  abundantly  supplied  with  fish,  beef,  and  poultry. 
Vegetables  are  to  be  had  in  abundance,  and  are  all  sold  in  the  streets. 

On  the  26th,  the  Peacock  and  tenders  returned,  and  brought  their 
work  up  to  the  observatory  at  Enxados  Island.  Captain  Hudson  had 
not  been  able  to  examine  the  St.  Thomas  Shoal.  Having  lost  five 
days  in  consequence  of  bad  weather,  it  became  impossible  to  accom- 
plish it  within  the  giver  time.*  During  his  progress,  he  had  lost  an 
anchor,  which,  when  hove  up,  was  found  to  have  been  broken  off  at 
file  shank.  Application  was  immediately  made  to  the  government 
tor  one,  which  request  was  very  obligingly  and  promptly  replied  to,  by 
desiring  us  to  select  one  of  a  suitai)lo  size  from  those  in  the  dock-yard. 

By  the  last  of  December  we  had  completed  all  our  scientific  duties. 
Tliese  consisted  of  a  scries  of  pendulum  observations;  those  for 
longitude  by  moon  culminating  stars;  circummeridian  observations 
for  latitude;  magnetic  dip,  intensity,  diurnal  variation;  and  others, 
including  tides,  and  solar  and  terrestrial  radiation.  We  now  made 
every  preparation  for  sea. 

»  The  measurement  of  the  whole  distance  by  sound,  when  reduced,  gave  1°  08'  52"  8'" 
for  the  difference  of  meridians.  Eacli  distance  between  tlie  vessels  was  tlic  mean  of  about 
thirty  observations.  The  longitude  of  Cape  Frio  Light,  deduced  from  tliat  of  Enxados, 
wliich  hod  been  ascertained  liy  moon  cnlminatinjr  ?tnrs  to  be  in  43°  09'  06"  GT"  west  of 
Greenwich,  is,  therefore,  120  ^j-  13"  g?'"  W.  For  llic  particulars  and  a  diagram  of  this 
worlt,  see  iippendix  XXIII. 


POLITICAL  STATE  OF  BRAZIL. 


89 


On  the  5th  of  January  the  Porpoise  was  ordered  to  drop  down  near 
a  slaver,  on  board  of  which  it  was  reported  some  of  our  men  had  been 
smuggled,  to  form  a  part  of  her  crew.  She  was  boarded,  and  though 
the  captain  denied  that  they  were  on  board,  after  a  search  two  were 
found.  One  of  them  was  a  black,  who  had  himself  been  a  slave,  yet 
■  he  had  been  induced  to  enter  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  on  this 
nefarious  traffic.  This  was  the  brig  Fox,  and  though  undoubtedly 
fitted  for  a  slaver,  she  sailed  under  English  colours.  It  was  given  out 
that  she  was  bound  for  New  Zealand. 

On  the  6th  of  January,  every  thing  being  ready,  we  weighed 
anchor,  and  dropped  down  the  harbour.  On  passing  the  Indepen- 
dence, we  were  saluted  with  six  cheers,  which  were  returned  with 
enthusiasm. 

There  is  no  difficulty  in  beating  out  of  the  harbour  of  Rio,  with  a 
ship  of  any  class,  although  vessels  sail  generally  in  the  morning, 
with  the  land-breeze.  The  breeze  failing,  we  anchored  without  th°e 
harbour,  and  I  took  this  opportunity  of  sending  back  the  Flying-Fish, 
in  order  to  recover  some  of  our  men  who  had  absented  themselves. 
Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold  took  charge  of  her,  and  effected  the 
object  without  difficulty.  During  this  time  I  employed  the  officers  in 
measuring  the  height  of  the  Sugar  Loaf  again  for  exercise. 

In  the  evening  we  weighed  anchor,  anJ  stood  to  the  southward  on 
our  course. 


PALACE. 


VOL.   I. 


H9 


12 


R, 
T; 
Al 
SE 
Bl 
M. 
M] 
C.J 
C^ 

IS] 


CHAPTER   V. 


CONTENTS. 

PASSAGE  TO  RIO  NEGRO- ARRIVAL  THERE-GUACHOS-EXCURSION  OF  THE  N'ATl- 
RALISTS-SALT  AND  SALT  LAKES-GOVERNMENT  AND  POPULATION-PRODUCTIONS- 
TARIFF-INDIANS-WANT  OP  ENTERPRISE-DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  COUNTRY-RIVEK 
AND  TIDES -CLIMATE -VEGETATION -TRADE -HARBOUR -SQUADRON  DRIVEN  Tu 
SEA-DANGERS  IN  SURVEYING  -  CONVICT  SETTLEMENT -COMMUNICATION  WITH 
BU-^YOS  AYRES- DEPARTURE  FROM  RIO  NEGKO-STATEN  LAND-STRAITS  OF  Li: 
MAIRE-APPEARANCE  OF  TERRA  DEL  FUEGO-IT3  HARBOUR-PARHELION-MIRAGE- 
MEETING  WITH  THE  RELIEF-HER  DEPARTURE  FROM  RIO-CURRENT-RIO  PLATA- 
CAPE  RAZA-CAPE  ST.  JOSEPH-CAPE  THREE  POINTS-DREDGING-BELLACO  ROCKS- 
CAPE  ST  DIEGO -GOOD  SUCCESS  BAY  -  CAPTAIN  KINGS  SAILING  DIRECTIONS - 
NATIVES -INTERCOURSE  WITH  THEM  -  BOTANY -GEOGRAPHICAL  POSITION -NEW 
ISLAND-ITS  POSITION-ARRIVAL  AT  ORANGE  HARBOUR-EMPLOYMENTS 


(01) 


i 


1 


V . 


'J 

liltl 
(list 
dis( 
of  1 
tlic 
the 

in  1 

wc 

vcr; 

brif 

ban 

sud 

f'roi 

Tilt 

dec 

shoi 

and 

ord( 

tliei 

the 

chai 

lasU 

six 

lieiti 


CHAPTER    V. 

RIO   NEGRO. 

1830. 

The  winds  proved  light  and  variable  during  our  passage  to  Rio 
^ogro,  and  we  occasionally  experienced  a  southwesterly  current,  of 
little  strength.  On  the  18th  January,  when  seventy-eight  miles 
distant  from  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  la  Plata,  we  passed  through  the 
discoloured  water  of  that  river.  Its  temperature  was  4°  less  than  that 
ol  the  surrounding  sea.  After  getting  to  the  southward  of  the  river, 
the  direction  of  the  current  changed,  and  it  was  found  to  be  setting  to 
the  northward.  ° 

Towards  evening,  on  the  19th,  we  met  many  discoloured  patches 
in  the  water,  and  found  they  proceeded  from  a  species  of  Salpaj,  which 
we  had  not  before  seen.  When  the  night  closed  in,  the  sea  became 
very  luimnous,  tlie  vessels  in  passing  through  the  water  leaving  loner 
bright  trains  behind  them.  Vivid  liglitning  in  the  west  showed  a  dark 
bank  of  clouds,  betokening  a  storm.  About  10  o'clock  p.  m.,  a  haze 
suddenly  enveloped  us;  the  temperature  of  both  air  and  water  fell 
from  07-  to  57^  ten  degrees,  giving  a  cold  clammy  feeling  to  the  air. 
llie  water  became  quite  smooth,  and  the  breeze  died  away;  all  on 
deck  seemed  avvakened  to  a  sense  of  danger.  We  immediately 
shortened  sail  and  sounded,  but  found  no  bottom  with  one  hundred 
and  fifty  fathoms  of  line.  The  vessels  of  the  squadron  came  up  in  close 
order,  sailing  as  it  were  in  a  sea  of  silver,  from  the  light  of  which 
their  forms  became  visible.  The  eflect  was  beautiful,  and  increased 
the  mysterious  and  alarming  sensation.  Shortly  after,  we  had  a 
change  of  wind  to  the  southwest,  followed  by  a  dense  fog,  which 
lasted  for  a  day;  but  the  temperature  of  both  air  and  water  remained 
SIX  to  eight  degrees  colder,  until  the  23d,  when  it  again  rose  to  the 
height  it  had  been  before. 

(93) 


94 


RIO    N  E  (J  R  O. 


I  have  litllc  doubt  but  this  roiiiarkahio  climig.  and  fall  of  tempera- 
ture, wen;  caused  l)y  the  near  aiijjroarli  to  ircliorr^s,  some  of  which 
have  been  Pt  limes  seen  nearly  in  this  latitude,  1)8^  nf)'  S.,  longitude 
5-1°  30'  W.  After  this  wo  had  fine  pleasant  weather,  until  our  arrivid 
off  the  Rio  Negro,  the  temperature  of  the  air  and  water  having  fallen 
en  degrees  during  our  progress  from  Rio. 

On  the  22d  wc  experienced  a  heavy  dew.  Our  observations  con- 
firmed the  remarks  of  Captain  King,  that  it  is  accompanied  by  a 
northerly  wind,  or  change  to  that  quarter. 

W  ■  next  passed  over  the  position  assigned  the  Ariel  Rocks  on  the 
charts,  and  sailed  two  degrees  on  their  parallel,  but  saw  no  indication 
of  them. 

In  approaching  the  coast,  the  soundings  were  remarkably  regular, 
decreasing  aboui  a  fathom  in  three  niilcs.  After  passing  to  the  south 
of  the  river  La  Plata,  thoy  were  composed  of  fine  gray  sand,  with 
pebbles  and  shells,  while  to  the  north  they  were  of  blue  mud.  Sound- 
ings were  had  in  fifty  fathoms  water,  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  otV 
the  coast. 

On  the  2.5th  we  discovered  the  coast,  which  is  a  line  of  low  sand- 
hills, without  trees,  and  it  exhibits  little  appearance  of  vegetation.  In 
the  evening  we  ancihored  off  the  bar,  in  eight  fathoms  water,  just  after 
which  wc  experienced  one  of  the  remarkable  s(iualls  of  this  coast,  that 
rose  from  the  southward  and  westward :  it  was  attended  with  much 
lightning  and  thunder ;  quantities  of  sand  and  insects  were  blown  ofi^ 
from  the  land;  but  little  rain  fell.  The  barometer  indicated  this  squall 
by  a  depression  of  two-tenths  of  an  inch.  The  wind  soon  changed 
and  brought  fine  weather,  the  thermometer  falling  six  degrees  durinc 
the  change. 

ILiving  been  led  to  believe  we  should  be  boarded  by  pilots  on  our 
anchoring  ofl'  the  bar,  I  was  a  good  deal  surprised  to  find  none,  and 
no  endeavour  making  to  board  us,  althougii  the  sea  was  quite  smooth. 
The  only  appearances  of  inhabitants  which  we  could  see  with  our 
telescopes,  were  a  few  horsemen  suspiciously  reconnoitring  us  from 
the  flagstaff  on  the  top  of  the  hill.  I  then  concluded  to  despatch  the 
Sea-Gull  under  Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold  into  the  river,  for 
the  purpose  of  having  communication  with  the  town,  directing  him  to 
take  the  channel  leading  to  the  northward  and  westward,  as  shown 
by  the  only  chart  we  had,  whilst  I  followed  in  the  Flying-Fish,  with 
the  scientific  gentlemen;  it  i)rovcd  to  be  the  wrong  one,  and  on  the 
tide  falling  the  schooners  both  grounded.  Our  situation  was  not  the 
most  agreeable;  for,  in  the  event  of  the  sea  rising,  we  should  have 
been  exposed  to  all  the  fury  of  the  ^iirf.  without  any  escape  from  the 


RIO   NEGRO. 


AB 


numerous  sand-bars.  It  hecainc  necessary,  as  the  tide  rose,  to  make 
die  river.  The  Sea-Gull  having  got  oir,  I  put  the  scientific  gentlemen 
an  board  uf  licr,  and  ordered  Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold  to 
proceed  in,  keeping  in  what  the  chart  pointed  out  ns  the  charard-wav 
and  deepest  water.  He  fmally  succeeded  in  get,,,ig  into  the  r.ver 
after  fhmnping  heavily  over  a  sand-bar,  with  some  fears  on  the  part 
ut  the  passengers,  but  without  injury  to  the  vessel,  and  anchored,  after 
(lark,  about  half  a  mile  up  the  river. 

Diu-ing  this  time  an  amusing  occurrence  took  place  in  the  road- 
stead. I  had  directed  Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold,  m  case  of 
accident  or  rf(|uiring  aid,  to  make  signal,  that  I  might  order  boats  at 
once  to  his  assistance.  When  the  night  closed  in,  the  signal  was 
.seen ;  when  the  requisite  signal  was  made  from  the  Flying-Fish  to  the 
dilibrcnt  vessels  to  send  boats  to  assist.  The  commanding  officer's 
mnid  bcmg  somewhat  impressed  witii  an  idea  of  the  hostility  of  those 
nn  shore,  he  concluded  the  boats  were  required  to  repel  an  attack,  and 
liad  them  fully  armed;  in  this  state  they  were  met  in  a  short  time 
oxcrimg  themselves  to  their  fullest  strength  at  the  oars,  to  be  in  time 
to  take  part  in  the  expected  fray,  and  appeared  greatly  disappointed 
when  It  proved  a  false  alarm,  and  that  none  was  to  take  place. 

Shortly  after  the  schooner  anchored,  a  voice  was  heard  from  the 
shore,  ordering  a  boat  to  be  sent  immediately,  when  a  party  landed 
I)ut  no  one  was  found  to  receive  ll.em.     Seeing  a  light  at  a  distance, 
they  proceeded  towards  it:  it  proved  lu  be  the  pilot's  house,  a  long 
low   barn-hke  building;    but  no  inhabitants  were  visible,  and  none 
made  their  appearance   until  our  party  had  taken  a  survey  of  the 
prcnuses.     The  furniture  was  of  a  rude  and  scanty  description;   a 
tabl(<,  bench,  two  or  three  bunks  in  one  corner,  and  in  another  a 
number  of  arms,  consisting  of  cutlasses,  carbines,  a.,.|  pikes,  in  good 
order;  m  the  others,  various  accoutrements.     The  two  pilots,  one  an 
Englishman  and  the  other  a  Frenchman,  with  a  negro,  then  made  their 
ai.pearance,  aiul  unravelled  the  mystery,  by  informing  them  that  the 
vessels  had  been  mistaken  for  the  French  squadron,  and  much  alarm 
had  been  created  by  our  visit;  they  also  said  that  the  guard  of  about 
llnrty  Guachos  were  in  ambush  near  where  they  landed,  with  the  in- 
tention of  cutting  our  party  off;  but  hearing  them  speaking  English, 
they  found  to  their  satisfaction  that  they  were  not  French.     They  aNu 
•stated  that  all  the  inhabitants  living  near  the  mmith  of  the  river  had 
<led  to  the  town,  and  that  most  of  the  women  and  children  in  the  town 
were  hurrying  oil'  to  the  interior.     They  were   likewise   employed 
dnvnig  oil  the  cattle,  and  preparing  to  fire  the  country,  the  usual  mode 
ot  warflxre,  and  were  rejoiced  to  identify  us  as  Americans. 


98 


U  1  O    N  li  (i  I{  o. 


All  this  aocouiito.1  Cr  il,«  rfconnoitri..^'  thnt  wo  had  obsorvud,  ami 
our  not  iK-ing  able  to  ol.laiu  a  pilot.  WluU  still  inoro  alar.uo.l  ti.o,n 
was  the  d.tlcront  vessels  firing  whilst  surveying,  and  our  making  the 
attempt  to  lorce  the  passage  in  flic  small  vessels. 

The  captain  of  the  <-nast  guar.l  now  ad'onlod  all  facilities,  and  a 
p.lot  f..r  the  schooner  was  sent  on  board  to  take  her  up  the  river,  and 
horses  and  guides  wore  furnished  for  a  partv  to  visit  the  town. 

ri.c  next  morning  a  detachment  of  lancers  arrived  fniu.  the 
goverm.r  with  orders  not  to  all.nv  our  vessels  to  proceed  up,  and  that  the 
pi  ot  should  come  on  shore,  whi.d.  cllectually  put  a  stop  to  our  plans- 
when  Lieutenant-Commandant  llinggold  detennine.l  to  go  by  land 

It  caused  much  alarm  to  the  pilot,  who  entreated  the  ofliccrs  to 
mtercede  with  the  governor  in  his  belialf.  and  for  that  of  the  captain 
of  the  coast  guard,  stating  that  their  lives  would  be  forfeited  lor  having 
attempted  to  pilot  a  vessel  without  the  governor's  orders.  After  some 
delay,  a  party  proceeded  to  Carmen,  under  the  escort  of  Guachos,  to 
wait  on  the  governor  or  commandant.  On  their  way  they  met  with 
a  cordial  welcome  from  all  they  passed,  as  the  minds  of  all  wore  now 
entirely  relieved  from  fear,  and  great  delight  was  expressed  at  sceii,.. 
the  J\orth  Americans.  ^ 

These  Gua.-hos   arc  generally  well  made,  tall  and  muscular,  with 
swarthy  complexions,  black  eyes,  and  long  hair,  very  large  mustachios 
and  remarkably  small  feet.     Their  costume  is  a  red  striped  shirt,  and 
white  drawers  large,  loose,  and  fringed  at  the  bottom  of  the  leg,  called 
cahonaUn.     Their  trousers  (cfnlipa)  consist  of  two  yards  of  scarlet 
Cloth,  which  IS  sometimes  ornamented  at  the  corners;   to  form  thi. 
into  any  thing  like  a  garment  appeared  strange  enough;  yet,  when  it 
^  on  the  wearer,  it  has  the  appearance  of  a  pair  of  Turkish  trousers, 
rhc  mode  in  which  it  is  put  on  is  to  confine  the  ends  round  the  waist 
by  a  girdle  (^triando),  the  middle  of  the  cloth  passing  .lown  between 
the  legs,  while  the  ends  M\  over  the  girdle.     On  the  head  was  worn  a 
red  conical  cap  surmounted  by  a  tassel. 

Their  riding  boots  or  loggings  are  made  of  the  hide  from  the  le-  oi 
ahorse.  This  is  stripped  off  and  put  on  the  leg  while  v(>t  -recn 
"•hero  It  is  suffered  to  dry,  and  remain  until  worn  out.  They  fit'vcr-" 
closely  to  the  font,  like  a  stocking.  The  two  largest  toes  of  each  font 
were  uncovered,  for  the  convenience  of  putting  them  into  the  stirru,.. 
which  IS  only  largo  cnougl,  to  admit  them.  A  long  knif<>  in  the  -irdic 
completes  the  dress.  "^ 

During  the  time  of  our  stay,  the  naturalists  ranged  the  country  in 
the  vicn.ty.  and  the  ofllcers  were  engaged  in  making  a  survev  of' the 
roadstead  and  bar. 


RIO    N  K  O  R  O. 


»7 


The  road  to  EI  Carmen  is  on  the  north  bank  of  the  rivor,  over  a 
rnngo  of  downs,  the  south  sidn  boiiii|  low.  The  river  continues,  about 
ono-lhird  of  a  mile  wide,  flowing  in  a  broad,  still  current.  There  are 
no  tr<Mis  to  1)0  seen  in  thn  landHca|)o. 

On  their  way,  tlio  jiarty  stopped  tit  several  estancias.  Those  arc; 
houses  built  of  adobes  or  unburnt  brick,  divided  into  two  or  three 
apartments,  without  floor,  ceiling,  or  furniture,  and  with  a  few  out- 


QOVERNOR's  X8TANCIA. 

houses  for  the  horses  and  slaves,  and  a  coural  for  the  cattle,  formed 
of  high  i)oles,  placed  so  near  as  to  prevent  the  cattle  from  breaking 
through;  the  poles  are  from  four  to  six  inches  in  diameter,  and  from 
lueiity  to  thirty  feet  high.  They  were  met  on  the  way  by  the  minister 
of  finance  or  collector,  whose  interrogations  were  satisfactorily  an- 
swered ;  they  were  then  allowed  again  to  proceed. 

The  next  person  whom  they  encountered  was  an  American,  T)r. 
Ducatel,  who  was  especially  despatched  by  the  governor;  he  an- 
nounced himself  as  a  physician  and  a  citizen  of  the  United  States. 
His  appearance  was  unlike  both.  He  was  dressed  in  the  chilipa  and 
calzoncillas, — in  the  full  costume,  and  had  the  appearance,  of  the 
Guachos.  His  skill  was  much  vaunted  by  his  attendants.  Wc 
afterwards  understood  that  the  doctor,  having  picked  up  a  smattering 
of  physic,  and  wishing  to  acquire  a  fortune,  had  gone  to  Buenos  Ayres 
to  seek  one.  There  he  accidentally  hoard  of  the  want  of  Rio  Negro  in 
that  respect;  he  embarked  for  that  place  with  an  ample  store  of  drugs, 
and  established  himself"  as  apothecary,  surgeon,  and  physician.  He  is 
reported  as  having  done  well  for  some  time,  notwithstanding  the 
healthiness  of  the  climate  and  place,  until  the  troubles  at  Buenos  Ayres 
with  the  French,  when  the  communication  with  the  city  being  cut  otf. 
had  prevented  him  from  obtaining  his  usual  supplies,  and  the  troops 
from  receiving  their  pay.     With  the  former  he  had  lost  the  means  of 

VOL.  I.  1  13 


RIO    NEGRO. 

curing  his  patients,  and  witii  the  latter  the  remuneration  that  was  due 
him.  He  had  therefore,  to  use  his  own  term,  «  retired  from  business," 
and  lived  several  miles  from  the  town,  husbanding  his  estate,  which 
consisted  of  an  estancia,  as  above  described,  and  his  demands  upon 
the  government  and  soldiers. 

Under  his  escort  they  arrived  at  the  pueblo,  consisting  of  a  few 
rows  of  mud  and  brick  huts,  scattered  without  any  regularity  over  a 
sandy  declivity  by  the  side  of  the  river. 

On  the  opposite  slope  was  the  fort,  an  enclosure  of  some  extent,  in 
which  were  seen  the  house  of  the  governor  and  the  barracks.  A 
presentation  to  tl.e  Governor-General,  Juan  Jose  Hernandez,  now  took 
place.  He,  on  being  informed  of  our  character,  and  the  object  of  our 
visit,  received  our  officers  in  a  most  courteous  and  friendly  manner. 
He  is  a  native  of  Buenos  Ayres,  of  dignified  manners,  polite  and 
courteous,  and  invested  with  great  authority.  The  officers  were  invited 
to  dine  with  him,  and  receiv-  d  his  hospitality. 

The  doctor  now  undertook  to  show  them  the  "  Mons"  of  the  place, 
and  carried  tliem  to  the  part  of  the  town  nearest  the  river,  in  which 
were  the  only  two  houses  built  of  red  brick.  There  they  were 
introduced  to  an  old  Portuguese,  who  kept  the  only  mercantile 
establishment  in  the  place.  It  was  a  small  store,  said  to  have  a  verv 
promiscuous  assortment  of  goods,  though  the  stock  had  become  some- 
what reduced ;  as  an  evidence  of  which,  a  few  of  the  inhabitants 
applied  to  be  furnished  with  pairs  of  pantaloons  from  on  board  ship, 
for  their  own  were  worn  out,  and  the  only  articles  of  dry-goods  at 
'"/esent  in  the  store,  were  three  or  four  yards  of  calico. 

An  American  by  the  name  of  Adams,  who  was  absent  at  the  time 
of  our  visit,  has  engrossed  all  the  trade  and  business  of  this  place,  and 
no  other  vessels  but  those  in  which  he  is  interested  hod  traded  with  it 
for  the  last  two  years,  with  the  exception  of  two  whale-ships,  in  1837 
and  1838;  on  them  a  duty  of  twelve  and  a  half  cents  per  ton  was 
levied,  although  their  sole  object  was  to  obtain  fresh  provisions.  This, 
together  with  the  difficult  and  changing  bar,  will  always  prevent  their 
resorting  to  this  port. 

The  inducements  for  a  merchant  vessel  to  visit  this  port  are  few ; 
for  it  would  be  difficult  to  dispose  of  even  the  most  necessary  articles, 
in  consequence  of  the  poverty  of  the  place;  and  there  is  no  possibility 
of  obtaining  any  thing  in  return,  except  salt.  Of  this  there  arc  severni 
cargoes  in  stack  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  which  it  is  said  could 
be  delivered  on  board  for  twenty  cents  per  bushel.  It  is  obtained 
from  the  salt  lakes,  or  salinas,  on  the  Campos,  and  is  transported  to 


RIO  NEGRO. 


It  was  due 
I  business," 
tate,  which 
lands  upon 

^  of  a  few 
rity  over  a 

3  extent,  in 
rracks.  A 
,  now  took 
vject  of  our 
ly  manner, 
polite  and 
ere  invited 

the  place, 
',  in  which 
they  were 
mercantile 
ive  a  very 
^me  some- 
nhabitants 
oard  ship, 
^-goods  at 

t  the  time 
place,  and 
id  with  it 
s,  in  18:37 
■  ton  was 
ns.  This, 
vent  their 

are  few ; 
Y  articles, 
lossibility 
I'c  Severn  I 
aid  could 

obtained 
ported  to 


99 


f 


the  river  in  ox-carts.  I  regretted  extremely  that  I  had  not  time  to 
spare  to  send  a  party  to  explore  them,  in  order  to  have  ascertained 
the  extent  of  the  staple  commodity  of  this  port. 

These  salt  lakes  are  known  to  be  numerous  throughout  the  Pampas, 

and  within  a  few  leagues  of  the  town  of  El  Carmen  there  are  four, 

from  two  to  three  leagues  in  circumference,  from  which  salt  has  been 

taken,  besides  many  others  of  smaller  dimensions.     From  the  largest 

of  these,  the  salt  that  is  exported  from  the  Rio  Negro  is   mostly 

obtained.     In  dry  weather  it  is  said  to  form  very  rapidly,  so  much  so 

that  it  may  at  times  be  gathered  daily,  and  that  it  attains  the  thickness 

of  two  inches  in  twenty-four  hours.     How  far  this  is  true,  I  will  not 

pretend  io  vouch.     Still  more  wonderful  stories  are  told  of  the  larf^er 

lakes  in  the  interior ;  of  their  being  ten  leagues  in  circumference ;  and 

they  are  described  as  being  covered  with  a  crust  of  dazzling  whiteness. 

so  strong  that  a  horse  and  rider  may  pass  over  it  without  leaving  an 

impression.     In  heavy  rains  these  lakes  are  converted  into  morasses 

of  black  mud,  which,  as  the  water  evaporates,  becomes  encrusted  with 

salt.     The  salt  is  beautifully  white  and  finely  crystallized,  and  requires 

no  purification  before  carrying  it  to  market.     The  specimens  were 

thought  to  equal  in  purity  those  from  our  own  springs.     The  general 

belief  relative  to  these   salt  lakes    is,  that  the   sah  is  disseminated 

through  the  soil,  no  salt  in  a  solid  state  having  yet  been  found  in  an" 

part  of  the  country.     No  satisfactory  informaiion  could  be  obtained 

relative  to  their  having  become  weaker,  as  the  only  person  who  was 

able  to  give  this  information  was  Mr.  Adams,  who,  as  I  mentioned 

before,  was  absent. 

It  appears  that  the  policy  of  the  present  government  of  Buenos 
Ayres  has  been  to  discourage  the  raising  of  cattle  and  the  exportation 
of  hides  from  this  place,  in  order,  it  is  said,  to  concentrate  the  trade 
at  Buenos  Ayres.  The  largo  herds  that  were  formerly  kept  in  this 
country  are  now  reduced  to  comparatively  few. 

None  of  the  government  oiTiccrs  have  received  any  salaries  for  the 
last  eighteen  months. 

There  are  about  two  thousand  inhabitants  within  a  circuit  of  eighty 
miles,  exclusive  of  a  few  roving  Indians.  The  population  of  Carmen 
is  about  five  hundred.  There  are  five  Americans  residing  here,  who 
state  that  they  enjoy  all  the  protection  that  the  government  can  give, 
and  that  they  are  well  treated. 

The  Rio  Negro  is  navigable  lor  Iioats  to  the  village  of  Chichula, 
two  hundred  miles  from  its  mouth. 

The  distance  across  the  coimfry  to  Buenos  Ayres  is  but  five  hun- 
dred miles,  yet  it  requires  Iftecn  days  to  communicate  with  it;  the 


100 


RIO   NEGRO. 


governor  had  received  no  advices  or  informiition  for  the  last  two 
months  from  that  place.  Tiie  route  is  very  uncertain,  owing  to  the 
iiordos  of  iiostile  Indians. 

Grain,  fruit,  and  vegetables  thrive  well,  and  with  proper  industry 
might  be  produced  in  abundance. 

The  climate  is  delightful,  and  cold  weather  is  seldom  felt,  although 
ice  has  occasionally  been  seen  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness. 

Bullocks  and  horses  are  the  principal  articles  of  trade ;  indeed  they 
constitute  the  legal  tender  of  the  country.  The  former  are  worth 
from  five  to  ten  dollars,  according  to  age ;  wild  horses,  two  or  three 
dollars,  and  if  broken  to  the  saddle,  ten  or  fifteen. 

The  tariff  of  duties  is  the  same  as  at  Buenos  Ayres,  but  the  late 
reduction  of  thirty-three  per  cent,  during  the  blockade  did  not  extend 
to  this  place. 

The  Indians  that  are  accustomed  to  visit  this  plac-  (Carmen)  for 
the  purpose  of  war  or  trade  are  of  four  different  tribes,  viz.,  Pampas, 
Ancases,  Tehuiliches  or  Teheulches,  and  Chilenos.  The  two  former 
occupy  the  territory  to  the  north  of  the  Rio  Negro  as  far  as  the  Rio 
Colorado.  The  Tehuiliches  are  from  the  mountains  to  the  south,  and 
the  Chilenos  from  the  southwest. 

During  the  infancy  of  the  settlement,  and  until  of  late  years,  these 
Indians  were  extremely  troublesome,  making  descents  upon  tlie  place, 
and  ravaging  the  outposts,  waylaying  all  who  wei-c  not  on  their 
guard,  killing  them,  and  retreating  rapidly  on  their  wild  steeds,  with 
their  booty,  to  the  pampas  and  mountains.  The  Spaniards  frequently 
retaliated,  and  by  the  superiority  of  their  arms  and  discipline,  inflicted 
summary  punishment  on  them.  The  last  attack  of  the  Indians  wns 
made  in  1832,  when  they  met  with  such  an  overwhelming  defo:it,  that 
they  have  not  ventured  to  make  another ;  yet  the  garrison  is  always 
kept  in  anxiety  for  fear  of  attacks. 

The  weapons  usual  in  their  warfare  are  a  long  lance  and  the 
hallos,  such  as  is  used  in  taking  the  ostrich  and  throwing  cattle,  which 
they  use  with  great  dexterity.  This  consists  of  a  thong  of  hide,  four 
feet  in  length,  with  a  leaden  ball  at  each  end,  which  the  horseman 
grasps  in  the  middle,  and  gives  the  balls  a  rotary  motion  by  whirling 
them  above  his  head,  then  dasliing  on  to  the  attack,  he  throws  it  when 
within  range  with  unerring  aim,  and  seldom  fails  to  disable  his 
enemy.  The  Indians  wlio  are  most  feared  are  the  Chilenos.  The 
Tehuiliches,  notwithstanding  their  immense  size,  are  considered  little 
better  than  cowards. 

All  the  information  gained  hero  tended  to  confirm  the  genenil 
impression  that  the  Tehuiliches  or  Patagonians  are  above  the  ordinary 


RIO    NEGRO, 


101 


lie  last  two 


height  of  men,  generally  above  six  feet;  and  the  minister  asserted  that 
l>e  had  often  seen  them  above  seven  English  feet.  We  had  not  any 
personal  opportunity  to  verify  this  statement,  the  Indians  bein<r  caly  in 
the  habit  of  visiting  this  post  once  a  year,  to  obtain  supplies,  viz.,  in 
the  month  of  March,  at  which  time  a  vessel  usually  visits  the  place 

The  few  Indians  who  inhabit  the  huts  or  toldos  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  river,  are  converted,  and  are  termed  Indies  Mansos;  they  are 
a  mixture  of  all  the  tribes,  and  so  much  changed  in  habits  and  dress 
from  their  former  condition  and  mode  of  life,  that  an  accurate  idea 
could  not  be  formed  of  their  natural  character.     They  were  none  of 
them  above  the  middle  height;  their  limbs  were  usually  full  and  well 
formed;  their  complexion  a  brownish  copper,  with  coarse  strai-rht 
Wack  hair,  growing  very  low  on  the  forehead:  this  is  suffered  ♦o  -row 
long,  and  hangs  down  on  both  sides  of  the  face,  adding  much  to  the 
wildness  of  their  appearance.     Their  foreheads  are  low  and  narrow 
towards  the  fop,  their  eyes  small,  black,  and  deep  set.     Rome  were 
observed  with   their   eyes   set   Chinese-like.     The   resemblance   was 
somewhat  increased  by  the  width  of  the  face,  which  was  a  particular 
characteristic.     The  nose  is  usually  a  little  flattened  at  the  root,  and 
wide  a*  the  nostrils,  the  lips  full,  and  the  chin  not  prominent.     The 
expressions  of  their  ccuntenancc  betoken  neither  intellect  nor  vivacity 
The  men  were  generally  decked  out  in  tawdry  finery,  partly  after  the 
Spanish   fashion;   the   women    had   only  the   chilipa  to  cover  their 
nakedness. 

Of  the  Ancases  very  little  appears  to  be  known;  they  live  towards 
the  north,  speak  a  peculiar  language,  and  are  inferior  to  the  rest  in 
stature. 

The  Chilcnos  are  derived  from  the  western  side  of  the  continent, 
and  are  predatory  bands  of  the  great  Araucanian  nation. 

The  Pculches,  including  the  Pampas  and  Tehuiliches,  Falkner,  in 
his  account  of  this  country,  describes  as  inhabiting  the  portion  south 
of  the  Rio  do  la  Plata,  and  to  the  cast  of  the  Cordilleras;  they  arc 
scattered  over  the  vast  plains  of  the  interior.  Those  to  the  north  of 
the  Rio  Colorado  are  generally  known  under  the  name  of  the  Pampas 
Indians ;  they  call  themselves  Chcchchets.  Those  to  the  south  of  that 
river  are  termed  Tehuiliches;  they  inhabit  the  table-land  between  the 
Cordilleras,  and  the  desert  plains  of  the  coast. 

These  people  are  represented  as  of  gigantic  stature,  and  it  is  said 
by  the  residents,  that  those  from  the  south  are  generally  taller  than 
those  from  any  other  part,  and  Indians  are  said  to  have  been  met  with 
who  are  distinguished  for  their  gigantic  height  and  well-formed  limbs; 
but  this  rests  on  vague  authority. 

12 


102 


RIO   N  E  (I  R  O 


Oiir  philologist  i elated  an  anecdote  of  a  young  Indian,  who  had 
leaiiicd  the  Spanish  tongue,  whom  he  had  been  questioning  relative 
to  his  language,  in  order  to  obtain  a  certain  class  of  phrases.  After 
having  written  down  a  word,  in  repeating  it,  he  connected  it  with 
some  adjunct,  as  my  faUier,  his  house,  this  knife.  The  Indian  mistook 
his  meaning,  and  immediately  took  fire  at  the  supposed  insult,  thinking 
that  the  correctness  of  what  he  had  said  was  doubted,  ai;d  tiiat  the 
object  was  to  entrap  him  in  a  falsehood.  It  was  with  some  diiUculi\ 
that  he  was  pacified. 

The  Guachos  and  Indians  are  of  coMrse  good  horsemen,  being 
trained  to  it  from  their  infancy.  Indeed  they  may  be  said  to  live  on 
horseback,  and  it  is  very  seldom  tliat  they  are  seen  to  walk  any 
distance,  however  short. 

Their  dress,  although  uncouth  and  ill-arranged,  is  comfortable,  and 
pictures(iuo  when  they  are  on  horseback,  particularly  when  at  full 
speed  in  search  of  a  bullock  to  lasso.  The  case  and  nonchalance 
with  which  a  Guacho  mounts  his  steed,  arranges  himself  in  tin- 
saddle,  quietly  trotting  ofi',  lasso  in  hand,  to  select  his  victim,  and 
.^etach  it  I'roin  tiie  herd ;  then  the  eager  chase,  the  furious  speed  oi' 
the  horse,  the  flying  dress  of  the  Guacho,  with  upraised  arm  whiriinu 
his  lasso,  the  terror  of  the  animal,  the  throw  of  the  lasso,  and  instan- 
taneous overthrow  of  the  bullock,  all  tlio  work  of  an  instant,  excited 
both  our  admiration  and  astonishiiiciit.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  ani- 
mation of  both  horse  and  rider  on  these  (M'casions. 


Mr.  Waldron,  our  purser,  made  an  endeavour  to  purchase  some 
vegetables  for  the  crews,  from  an  ostancia  on  the  river-side,  of  which 
an  old  Spaniard  was  the  owner,  thus  atlbrding  him  an  opportuniiv  of 


RIO   NEGRO. 


103 


disposing  of  many  of  them ;  but  the  conditions  were,  that  the  articles 
must  be  on  the  beach  in  a  few  hours,  which  was  ample  time  to  have 
dug  up  an  acre.  As  soon,  however,  as  he  learned  these  terms,  he 
shrugged  his  shoulders,  and  declared  the  thing  impossible,  took  down 
his  guitar,  seated  himself  in  front  of  his  house,  and  began  to  play  a 
lively  air,  which  his  two  sons  accompanied  'vith  their  voices. 

The  coast  and  the  banks  of  the  Rio  Negro  are  composed  of  sand- 
hills, of  from  thirty  to  fifty  feet  in  height,  covered  with  a  scattered 
growth  of  grass,  which  prevents  the  sand  from  blowing  away.  These 
gradually  rise  to  the  height  of  one  hundred  feet,  except  to  the  south- 
ward of  tho  river,  where  the  bank  is  perpendicular;  at  this  height  the 
ground  stretches  away  in  a  level  prairie,  without  a  single  tree  to  break 
the  monotony  of  the  scene,  and  aflbrd?  a  view  as  uninterrupted  as  the 
ocean. 

The  apparent  hills  along  the  river  are  found  to  be  no  more  than  the 
face  of  the  excavation  made  or  worn  dovi  by  the  river,  forming  the 
valley  through  which  it  flows. 

The  only  verdure  on  the  prairie  is  a  small  shrub,  which  when  the 
lower  branches  arc  trimmed  off  serves  a  useful  purpose.  From  an 
optical  illusion,  (the  eflfect  of  refraction,)  they  appear,  when  thus 
trimmed,  as  large  as  an  ordinary  sized  apple-tree,  and  one  is  not  a 
little  surprised  to  find  them,  on  a  near  approach,  no  higher  than  the 
surrounding  shrul.^,  four  or  five  feet.  Shrubs  are  trimmed  in  this 
manner  at  distances  of  about  half  a  mile  from  each  other,  and  are 
used  as  guide-posts  on  the  prairie.  A  similar  optical  effect  is  spoken 
of  by  travellers  on  the  steppes  of  Russia. 

Game  is  most  plentiful,  consisting  of  deer,  guanacoes,  and  cavias. 
cassowaries,  partridges,  bustards,  ducks,  &c.  ^  Armadillos  were  com- 
mon, and  the  ostrich  was  frequently  seen ;  porcupines  are  said  also  to 
be  found.  The  cavias  were  seen  rimning  about  in  single  file,  with  o 
sort  of  halting  gait. 

The  soil  of  the  Campos  was  mostly  a  mixture  of  clay,  sand,  and 
small  pebbles,  but  is  destitute  of  vegetable  mould.  They  have  the 
practice  of  burning  the  prairies  in  order  to  produce  a  new  crop  of 
sweet  and  nutritious  grass  for  the  cattle.  The  rock  of  the  cliff,  and 
along  the  river  where  it  can  be  seen,  is  a  soft,  gray  sandstone,  in  some 
places  so  friable  as  to  be  easily  crumbled  between  the  fingers,  while 
other  specimens  are  of  sufficient  hardness  for  building-st'one.  The 
stratification  is  perfectly  horizontal. 

The  width  of  the  river  is  less  than  a  third  of  a  mile ;  it  has  a  rapid 
current,  and  a  large  body  of  water  is  carried  by  it  to  the  ocean.  The 
ordinary  tide  is  about  ei;,'ht  feet  rise,  and  the  spring  tides  fourteen  feet. 


104 


RIO    NEGRO. 


The  current  is  mostly  downward,  althoiigli  the  tide  is  felt  about  ten 
miles  above  its  mouth.  Tiio  ebb  sets  oil'  shore  some  three  or  four 
miles,  and  may  be  known  b^  the  discoloration  of  the  water,  which 
just  without  the  bar  is  comparatively  fresh.  The  depth  at  high  water 
on  the  bar  k  two  and  a  half  fathoms,  and  the  bar  is  a  changiiig  one. 

No  springs  were  observed  in  the  vicinity,  or  any  trace  of  running 
water,  except  in  the  river.  The  water  from  the  rains  collects  in  the 
depressions,  and  forms  large  ponds,  covering  acres  of  ground,  but  only 
a  few  inches  in  depth. 

The  time  of  our  visit  corresponded  in  season  to  our  midsummer 
months,  and  the  mean  temperature  was  found  to  be  73°.  The  winters 
are  represented  as  very  mild ;  snow  does  fall,  but  it  disappears  in  a 
few  hours.  Ice  is  seldom  seen,  though  frosts  appear  to  be  frequent  in 
the  winter.  January,  February,  March,  and  April,  are  the  least  tem- 
pestuous  months. 

The  vegetation  of  the  upland  bears  the  marks  of  long-continued 
droughts,  in  an  absence  of  trees,  and  the  roots  of  plants  penetrating 
vertically.  The  stunted  appearance  of  the  shrubs,  branching  froi'n 
their  base,  their  branches  dense,  rigid,  and  impenetrable,  usually 
growing  into  spines;  the  smallness  of  the  leaves,  and  their  texture 
which  is  dry,  coriaceous,  and  hardly  deciduous;  together  with  the 
general  brown  aspect  of  the  landscape,  all  denote  a  vegetation  adapted 
to  endure  or  escape  drought. 

There  was  formerly  some  trade  here  with  Boston  and  New  York,  in 
hides,  horns,  bones,  and  tallow,  in  exchange  for  cotton  and  woollen 
goods  of  a  waim  fobric,  hardware,  crockery,  boots  and  shoes,  a  few 
articles  of  furniture,  spirits,  and  tobacco,  all  of  which  are  bartered  at 
an  enormous  profit.  Considerable  quantities  of  salt  are  shipped  round  to 
Buenos  Ayres.  Vessels  discharging  or  taking  in  a  cargo  here,  pay 
twelve  and  a  half  cents  per  ton.  Vessels  stopping  without  discharging 
pay  half  duty ;  vessels  for  refreshments  are  permitted  to  remain  twenty" 
five  days  free  of  duty,  after  that  time  they  pay  half  duty.  This  duty 
includes  pilotage  and  all  other  charges ;  but  the' governor  seems  to  have 
the  power  to  exact  the  full  duty  whenever  he  thinks  proper. 

Sarsaparilla  abounds  in  this  section  of  the  country. 

As  the  bar  is  a  shifting  one,  no  permanent  directions  can  be  given, 
nor  can  any  survey  be  relied  on.  The  annual  freshets  and  gafes  of 
wind  that  take  place  from  May  to  October,  often  change  the  '^jwsition 
of  the  bar.  According  to  the  pilots,  it  had  recently  undergone  a 
change,  and  the  depth  of  water  was  three  feet  less  on  it  than  had  been 
before.  Even  the  direction  had  been  altered  from  southeast-by-south, 
to  southeast,  by  compass. 


RIO    NEGRO. 


The  week  we  .ay  off  the  bar. 


105 


|he  ere.  .ro^,  W  ^  riil^IZT S^  Z^^f  t  'Zt 

and  eastward,  there  will  be  found  uttle  difTiculty  in  -etting  off  shore  to 
avoid  the  danger  a  vessel  would  be  exposed  to.        °        ^  '  ^ 

fielafs  Thf  °<?'  "'  "'"  r'"*^''  '  ''^'^  ^''''  ""«'^^'--  ^-  the  safety  of 
them.  The  fogs  and  strong  current  rendered  it  extremely  difficult  to 
proceed  rapidly  w  th  our  survey:  many  of  the  boats  were  cletained  out 
ovei-  night,  and  others  reached  the  ship  with  difficulty.  " 

On  the   night   of  the   30th  of  January,  the  weather   assumed   a 

h  eatemng  appearance.     The  wind  changed  to  the  eastward  whh  a 

alhng  barometer;  the  sea  rising,  accompanied  by  a  heZ  fi "  vith 

0  absence  of  three  boats,  caused  me  much  anxiety.   Du  i^l  urJn"  ' 

e  wind  increased  to  a  gale  from  ^he  southeast.'    At  da'y  'h    The 

Peacock  made  signal  that  the  boats  had  reached  her  in  safety  ''     lad 

rhorir^^r'T   '"'   ''^   ^^"^^^^^   ^°   ^^^^^   ^'-^  ^angero: 

c     V  "ft  hi.  off  "'  T    "'"="  '''''^  '''''  "'^  '''''''''  '^  without  diffi- 
culty, getting  off  under  our  storm-sails;    three  of  the   vessels  were 

obliged  to  slip  the.r  cables.     The  barometer  during  the  gale  fj to 

600  in    which  was  lower  than  we  had  seen  it  sin^ce  oui'     pL  u  e 

aed  we  ^'T     '''''''''''  ^^^"'"«"'  -'^^  ^^e  weather^     de! 

a^cd,  we  again  sought  our  anchorage.     One  of  the  boats  returned  to 

l.e  Vincennes  with  but  half  her  crew;  the  rest,  it  was  reported  to  me 
had  deserted.     Two  boats  with  officers  were  acco-din.ly  desnatcred 

or  the  puipxe  of  apprehending  them,  as  soon  as  we  ancLre  T  « 
men  were  nuv!  by  ;he  Guach  .s  without  difficulty.  They  accounted 
tor  their  absence,  that  they  had,  while  waiting 'on  the  beach  been 
en  iced  into  the  interior  in  chase  of  some  game ;  lind  the  fo'To  'in.  o^ 
-    only,  they  had  lost  their  way,  missed  the  boat,  and  wei^  o  1  ged l 

..ss  the  mght  on  the  prairie.  The  boats  in  returning  to  the  ships 
".  rowly  escaped  accident  in  passing  through  the  rollers  on  tlL  blr 
oijuit  was  with  great  difficulty  they  readied  the  ship  at  n  dni'h  ' 
Tho.He.gthened  absence  caused  no  httle  anxiety  for  thL  safety  to  all 

Dr.  Pickering  on  this  occasion  at  my  request  visited  a  cave  he  had 

ntioned  to  me  as  existing,  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  its  tempe- 

.ature.  believing  it  would  give  some  more  accurate  ii.formation  a7to 

VOL.  I.  j^ 


106 


RIO    NEGRO. 


the  mean  temperature  of  the  climate  at  this  season.   It  was  found  to  be 
70°,  m  a  horizontal  hole,  twelve  feet  from  the  surlace. 

On  the  1st  February,  the  Peacock,  Porpoise,  and  tenders,  were 
engaged  lookmg  for  their  anchors;  the  latter  regained  theirs,  but  the 
former  was  lost,  the  buoy  having  sunk. 

El  Carmen  may  bo  termed  a  convict  settlement ;  for  culprits  and 
exiles  are  sent  here  from  Buenos  Ayres.  The  garrison  is  composed  of 
about  two  /lundred  soldiers,  principally  African  and  Brazilian  slaves 
brought  here  during  the  Banda  Oriental  war.  Among  them  we  found 
a  person  who  called  himself  an  American,  from  Rhode  Island,  by  name 
Benjamm  Harden,  junior,  who  was  desirous  of  claiming  our  protection. 
He  was  of  small  stature,  slender  make,  and  a  light  complexion,  with  a 
mild  exr  ion  of  countenance,  and  about  thirty  years  of  age.  His 
story  \s.  :t  he  had  been  by  chance  in  Buenos  Ayres  at  the  time 

when  the  government  was  in  want  of  troops,  and  that  he  was  seized 
and  compelled  to  enlist.  On  inquiring,  however,  of  the  governor,  it 
proved  that  he  had  been  engaged  in  a  riot  at  Bue.ios  Ayres,  in  which 
he  had  killed  two  or  three  men,  and  committed  other  outra^res,  for 
which  he  had  been  condemned  to  death,  but  on  the  intercession  of  a 
friend,  the  sentence  was  commuted  to  that  of  exile  as  a  soldier  at  this 
place.  His  farther  history  is,  that  not  long  since  he  formed  the  plan 
of  deserting  with  another  convict,  by  seizing  an  English  trading  vessel, 
in  the  absence  of  the  captain  and  part  of  the  crew,  and  making  ofl'  with 
her,  which  he  was  fully  able  .j  accomplish,  being  an  excellent  sailor. 
Ihe  night  however  before  tiie  day  fixed  on  for  the  execution  of  this 
plan,  he  got  intoxicated,  discovered  the  whole  design,  and  received  the 
severe  punishment  of  twelve  hundred  lashes,  at  tiiree  different  times. 

On  the  morning  of  the  departure  of  the  schooner,  he  eflected  his 
escape  from  the  town,  and  swam  off  to  the  schooner.  He  was  recoa. 
nised  by  an  officer,  who  knew  his  history  in  part,  namely,  that  he  h  "d 
become  a  robber  and  a  murderer,  and  had  been  an  outcast  from  his 
father's  house  for  fifteen  years.  He  was  told  that  he  could  not  be 
received  on  board,  and  a  boat  landed  him  again. 

On  the  3d  of  February  we  got  under  way,  and  were  glad  to  leave 
so  exposed  and  unpleasant  an  anchorage. 

On  the  4th  and  5th,  we  experienced  a  heavy  sea  from  the  south- 
ward, with  much  wind. 

Finding  the  tenders  were  much  distressed  while  keeping  company 
with  the  ships  in  the  heavy  sea,  I  made  signal  to  them  to  make  the 
best  of  their  way  to  Orange  Harbour,  judging  that  I  should  thus  save 
mucti  time,  as  well  as  great  wear  and  tear  to  the  vessels:  they  would 


RIO    NEGRO. 


107 


found  to  be 

ders,  were 
irs,  but  the 

ulprits  and 
imposed  of 
lian  slaves 
1  we  found 
d,  by  name 
protection, 
ion,  with  a 
age.     His 
t  the  time 
-vas  seized 
overnor,  it 
,  in  which 
trages,  for 
ssion  of  a 
ier  at  this 
1  the  plan 
ing  vessel, 
ig  ofl"  with 
ent  sailor, 
on  of  this 
ccived  the 
it  times. 
Tected  his 
/as  recoir- 
at  he  hud 
t  from  his 
lid  not  be 

d  to  leave 
the  south- 
company 
make  the 
thus  save 
ley  would 


also,  by  arriving  before  the  squadron,  materially  aid  it  by  acting  as 
pilots,  in  case  we  should  need  such  guidance.  On  the  0th  the  weather 
began  to  moderate,  and  the  wind  to  haul  to  the  westward.  Shortly 
afterwards  we  had  strong  winds  accompanied  with  rain.  The  lower 
scud  was  seen  passing  rapidly  from  the  northward  and  westward, 
whilst  the  upper  scud  was  moving  from  the  south-southwest.  We 
found  the  current  setting  to  the  north-by-ea-,t,  about  fifteen  miles  in 
twenty-four  hours. 

On  the  8th  we  had  a  sudden  fall  of  the  barometer  to  29-500  in.,  but 
without  any  change  in  the  weather  except  fog  and  mist.  The  wind 
was  from  the  west-northwest.  On  the  11th,  the  wind  hauled  to  the 
southwest,  when  the  barometer  began  to  rise,  and  the  weather  to  clear 
off.  On  the  12th,  the  barometer  again  fell  to  29-500  in.,  v.hich  brought 
thick  weather  and  rain,  with  a  heavy  bank  of  cumuli  to  the  southward 
and  westward,  a  precursor  of  bad  weather.  I  a  few  hours  we  had 
heavy  squalls,  with  hail  and  rain,  the  weather  becoming  sensibly  colder. 
Temperature  40".  The  next  morning  we  made  Staton  Land,  and 
soon  afterwards  Capo  St.  Diego,  Tierra  del  Fuego.  The  land  was 
broken,  high,  and  desolate.  The  Straits  of  Le  Maire  were  before  us : 
we  were  just  in  time  to  take  the  tide,  and  with  a  fair  wind  wc  sailed 
rapidly  through  the  strait,  passing  its  whirls  and  eddies,  now  quite 
smooth,  but  in  a  short  time  to  bui,.  -■-  vexed  and  fretted  by  the 
returning  tide.  The  squadron  glided  along  with  all  its  canvass  spread 
to  the  breeze,  scarcely  iriaking  a  ripple  under  the  bows.  The  day 
was  a  remarkably  fine  one  for  this  climate,  and  the  sight  beautiful, 
notwithstanding  the  desolate  appearance  of  the  shores. 

I  cannot  see  why  there  should  be  any  objection  to  the  passage 
through  the  Straits  of  Le  Maire,  as  it  gives  a  vessel  a  much  better 
chance  of  making  the  passage  round  the  cape  quickly.  No  danger 
exists  here  that  I  know  of.  A  vessel  with  the  tide  will  pass  through 
in  a  few  hours.  As  for  the  «  race  and  dangerous  sea/'  I  have  fully 
experienced  it  in  the  Porpoise  on  the  side  of  Staten  Land ;  and  am  well 
satisfied  that  any  vessel  may  pass  safely  through  it,  at  all  times  and  in 
all  weathers,  or  if  not  so  disposed,  may  wait  a  few  hours  until  the  sea 
subsides,  and  the  tide  '-hanges.  We  were  only  three  hours  in  passing 
through.  We  enf/jred  the  straits  with  studding-sails  set,  and  left  them 
under  close-reefed  topsails.  S.^ualls  issuing  from  the  ravines  were 
frequent  and  severe,  and  were  acompanied  occasionally  by  a  little 
snow.  The  barometer  had  fallen  to  29-250  in.  Contrary  to  my 
expectations,  we  had  on  ;  le  next  day  delightful  weather,  with  light  and 
variable  winds  from  the  eastw  ard,  and  at  times  calms.  This  gave  me 
an  opportunity  of  examining  the  currents.     Many  rips  were  observed. 


108 


RIO  NEGRO. 


and  it  was  found,  as  the  vess<3ls  were  on  dillerent  sides  of  them,  they 
were  set  in  opposite  directions.  The  current  on  the  outside  ..f  n  line 
drawn  from  Capo  Good  Success  to  Cape  Ht  n  sets  lo  the  easl  vard. 
and  vessels  sailing  to  the  westward  would  greatly  facilitate  ilieir 
passage  by  beating  within  this  lir.o',  taking  advantage  of  the  u  m  oi. 
its  ebb,  and  passing  between  the  HL-nnit  Islands  and  the  main  thmuirh 
Nassau  Bay,  if  the  time  is  at  all  favourable  for  it.  In  case  of  necessity, 
they  may  obtain  good  anchorage. 

To  the  eastward  of  Cape  Horn  I  obtained  a  sounding  with  the  deep 
sea  thermometer  to  the  depth  of  four  liundred  and  fifty  fathoms.  The 
temperature  at  the  surface  was  44°,  and  when  iiie  tlu  rmometer  camo 
up  it  showed  but  28°.  The  sounding  was  perpendicular,  and  the 
thermometer  had  been  examined  by  two  or  three  persons  before  goint^ 
down,  so  that  we  were  assured  there  was  no  misfn'  o.  So  remarkable 
a  circumstance  surprised  me  not  a  little.  It  was  too  late  to  attempt 
another  sounding  that  night,  and  I  regretted  in  the  morning  to  find 
myself  on  soundings  in  eighty  fathoms  water.  The  temperature  at 
that  depth  did  not  f.dl  below  40°,  whilst  at  the  surfice  it  was  at  49°. 

The  coast  of  Terra  del  Fuogo  presents  the  same  general  character 
throughout,  of  high,  broken,  and  rugged  land,  which  appears  of  a 
uniform  elevation  of  about  one  thousand  or  fifteen  hundred  feet,  with 
hero  and  there  a  peak  or  mountain  covered  with  snow,  rising  to  some 
four  or  five  thousand  feet.  The  whole  wears  a  sombre  and  desolate 
aspect.  It  may  be  said  to  be  iron-bound,  with  many  high  and  isolated 
rocks,  that  have  become  detached  from  the  land  apparently  by  the 
wear  of  ages.  Numerous  unexpected  indentations  occur  all  along  the 
coast,  many  of  them  forming  harbours  for  small  vessels,  and  some  of 
them  very  safe  ones. 

On  Captain  King's  rejjort  of  Orange  Harbour,  I  had  determined  to 
make  that  our  place  of  rendezvous  previous  to  our  first  Antarctic  trip, 
and  accordingly  all  the  vessels  were  ordered  to  proceed  thither.  We 
had  his  directions,  although  we  were  without  the  chart.  I  felt  confi- 
dent I  might  repose  full  reliance  in  them,  from  his  well-known  ability; 
and  I  now  ofler  an  acknowledgment  of  their  value  and  gene'-al 
accuracy. 

The  channels  formed  by  the  islands  are  deep,  with  no  anchorage 
except  in  the  coves  near  the  rocks ;  but  a  vessel  is  generally  safe  in 
passing  through,  as  there  are  no  dangers  but  those  which  show  them- 
selves, and  wherever  rocks  are,  kelp  will  be  found  growing  upon  them. 
To  pass  through  the  kelp  without  previous  examination  is  not  safe.  It 
borders  all  the  shores  of  the  bays  and  harbours,  and  effectually  points 
out  the  shoal  water. 


RIO   NEGRO. 


109 


It  wns  my  intention  to  pass  within  or  to  the  north  of  the  FTcrmit 
Wands  .nto  Nassau  Buy  but  the  wind  did  not  permit  o„r  doing  1 
lh,8  bay  forms  a  large  indenture  in  the  southern  coast  of  Terra  del 
Fuego.  a  few  miles  to  the  northward  of  Cape  Horn;  it  is  about  thirty 

ITotected  f"  T'l:^^  ''^'^^  'f''  "'"'^  -^"^  '^«"^'^'  «"d  '^  --"^what 
protected  from  the  heavy  seas  by  the  Hermit  Islands.   Around  the  bay 

are  found  some  harbours  sheltered  by  small  islands,  and  surrounded  by 
procpuous  rocky  shores,  with  occasionally  a  small  ravine  forming  a 
cove  mto  which  si,  cams  of  pure  water  discharge  themselves.  aflbrdin« 
a  sate  and  conv.nient  landing-place  for  boats. 

On  the  morning  of  the  imh,  on  board  the  Porpoise,  Lieutenant  Dale 
observed  a  remarkable  parhelion,  of  which  he  made  the  annexed  sketch. 


#.- 


The  upper  is  the  true  sun,  tlie  lower  the  mock  sun.  They  were  of 
equal  size  and  nearly  of  the  same  brightness.  The  latter  was  about  a 
diameter  below  the  former.  The  sun's  altitude  was  8^  At  the  same 
altitude,  and  21°  40'  south  of  it.  was  another  mock  sun,  showing 
prismatic  colours  towards  the  sun,  and  with  a  brush  of  li^ht  in  oZ 
position.  No  halo  or  arc  was  seen.  The  whole  disappeared"  in  about 
fifteen  minutes.  The  masthead  temperature  was  not  noted  on  board 
the  1  orpoise;  but  according  to  that  of  the  Vincennes,  there  was  a  dif- 
ference of  five  degrees  in  temperature  at  the  time  between  the  deck  and 
the  masthead,  showing  a  state  of  atmospliere  favourable  to  thi<» 
phenomenon.     Barometer  29-55  in.,  tempera  t lire  42°. 

In  passing  the  cape,  the  weather  was  delightful.     Wc  sailed  within 
two  miles  of  this  dreaded  promontory,  and  could  not  but  admire  its 

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no 


RIO    NEGRO. 


be 


in 
the 


worn  and  weather-beaten  sides,  that  have  so  long  been  invested  with 
all  the  terrors  that  can  beset  sailors.  Here  we  first  encountered  the 
long  swell  of  the  Pacific,  but  there  was  scarcely  a  ripple  on  its  surface. 
Although  the  landscape  was  covered  with  snow,  the  lowest  tempera- 
ture we  had  yet  experienced  was  40°  Fahrenheit. 

The  Porpoise,  just  before  night,  made  signal  that  she  wished  to 
speak  us,  and  sent  on  board  a  tub  filled  with  a  large  medusa,  for 

examination  by  the  naturalists.     Its  dimensions  were  nine   feet 

circumference;  the  brachia   seven  feet  long.     It  proved  to 

Acalepha  medusa  pelagia  of  Cuvier. 
On  the  17th  of  February,  we  had 

an  extraordinary  degree  of  mirage 

or  refraction  of  the  Peacock,  exhi- 
biting three  images,  two  of  which 

were     uprigln    and    one    inverted. 

They    were     all     extremely     well 

defined.     The  temperature  on  deck 

was  54°,  that  at  masthead  62°.     A 

vessel  that  was  not  in  sight  from  the 

Vincennes'    decks,  became   visible, 

as  in  the  annexed  sketch;  the  land 


■uufatuiii:,ix,x: 


^<**M**tt^t 


'Mfiimtrn'mttMummuuith 


*'»*"«*«»>>w»»»<«««>!/>«iSii(»i. 


I'KAUOCK. 

at  the  same  time  was  much  distorted,  both  vertically  and  horizontally. 
Barometer  stood  at  29-62  in. ;  hygrometer  10°. 

*    ^jP,^^^  ^"  ^^^"^^  the  Peacock,  similar  appear- 

Y-©£^'?^\  ^"^^^  ^^®*"^  observed  of  the  Vincennes  and 

J^SS"^!   '^         Porpoise.    There  was,  however,  a  greater 

»"*w«>w.»»^wOTi®w=.Uari4TO^,w«*,«,,^^  difl'erence  between  the  masthead  tempe- 

«..«=.^^_g^  ^^,^^^^^^.^  '-^"d  that  on  deck,  the  thermometer 

-   «    't-^        standing  at  62°  at   masthead,  while  on 

deck  it  was  but  50°,  being  a  diflference  of 

12°,  that  on  board  the  Vincennes  diflfered 

only  8°.     The  sketches  were  taken  about 

the  same  time :  that  made  of  the  Peacock 

on  board  the  Vincennes  it  will  be  seen  was 

the  most  elongated. 

We  continued  beating  into  the  passage 
between  the  Hermit  Islands  and  False  Cape  Horn,  and  found  great 


VINCENNES. 


RIO   NEGRO. 


Ill 


L  J  ^  '\^T"^  ^'"^  Lort,  from  the  very  strong  outward  set  of 

he  tide    which  we  found  to  run  with  a   velocity  of  five  miles  an 

hour.     We  were  not  able  to  make  way  against  it.  though  the  log  gave 

ha  rate  of  sadmg.    After  beating  about  in  this  channel  a  long^nd 

a  .mght,wuhallhandsup.we  made  sail  at  daylight,  and  at^alf- 

'    H  f  ti  "■  '",?     7."^  '"  ^'^"S'  ^^'^'''''-     ^^'^  ^«  f«"nd  the  Relief 
and  tenders,  all  well. 

The  Relief,  it  will  be  remembered,  was  left  by  the  boats  at  the  mouth 
of  R.O  Harbour,  on  the  19th  December.  Lieutenant-Commandant 
Long  found  it  necessary  to  come  to  anchor  before  they  cleared  Raza 
Island,  m  consequence  of  its  falling  calm,  and  the  flood  tide  drifting 
them  .n  towards  the  harbour.  The  next  day  they  took  their  departure" 
and  with  a  northerly  wind  steered  on  their  course  to  the  soulhward 
with  hazy  weather. 

On  the  22d  they  experienced  a  current  of  twenty  miles  to  the  east- 
wfirci. 

The  barometer  stood  lower  than  had  been  observed  before.  29-79  in. 
The  weather  had  the  appearance  of  a  change,  the  wind  hauling  to  the 
outhward  by  the  west,  and  then  to  the  southeast  quarter.  wiUi  clear 
and  pleasant  weather. 

nJ!''^^?:."'"  '"^  "^^'  extremely  luminous  in  large  patches ;  tern- 
perature  of  the  water  73°. 

On  the  37th.  in  longitude  50°  19'  W.,  latitude  35°  11'  S  beinc 
three  hundred  miles  off  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Plata,  they  found  the 
water  very  much  discoloured;  its  temperature  had  fallen  to  70°;  no 
bo  torn  was  found  with  one  hundred  and  fifty  fathoms  of  line.  Three 
'''iu  iT'?"  ^^^^^'"  ""^'^  •"  ''S^^'  °"«  «^^hich  they  spoke, 
miler  ''""^"^  "^^^  ^''""'^  '^"'"^  ^"^  ^^"^  east-southeast,  twelve 

The  29th.  in  latitude  38^  54'  S..  longitude  54°  GO'  W..  the  water  was 
still  much  discoloured,  its  temperature  having  fallen  to  66°;  air  66° 
1  he  ship  was  set  southwest  forty-six  miles  in  twenty-four  hours  No 
bottom  was  obtained  with  the  deep  sea  line.  On  this  and  the  next  day 
^Jhntf '^  7««  «»rrounded  by  large  numbers  of  birds,  consisting  of 
alba  ross,  b  ack  petrel,  &c.  Shoals  of  porpoises  and  seals,  and  large 
patches  of  kelp,  were  met  with.  The  current  was  now  found  to  have 
changed  to  north-northeast,  fourteen  miles. 

On  the  31st  they  had  reached  the  latitude  of  40°  S.    Many  tide  rins 
were  here  observed,  and  the  water  continued  very  much  discolour^ 
,nH     ^  J't  ^PP^^^""'^^   «f  «hoal   river-water.     Although   the   char 
indicated  bottom  at  fifty-five  fathoms,  a  long  distance  to  fhe  eastward 
none  was  found  with  one  hundred  and  seventy  fathoms.     Thrcur-' 


112 


RIO   NEGRO. 


rent  was  felt  setting  north  69°  east,  thirty-six  mi'es  ;  water  fell  to  55° 
air  59°. 

On  the  1st  of  January,  they  obtained  soundings  in  fifty-five  fathoms 
fine  yellow  and  black  sand;  this  day  there  occurred  a  thunder-storm,' 
with  rain  and  hail.  The  current  was  north  49°  east,  thirty-one  miles ; 
temperature  of  the  water  54°,  that  of  the  air  64°. 

On  the  2d,  latitude  41°  24'  S.,  longitude  58°  40'  W.,  the  wind  was 
from  the  northward  and  westward,  and  was  accompanied  by  hazy 
weather ;  the  temperature  of  the  water  rose  to  53°,  air  66°.  The  cold 
water  which  had  been  passed  through  had  continued  for  a  distance  oi 
one  hundred  and  sixty  miles;  the  current  was  found,  by  anchoring  a 
boat,  to  set  south-half-west  three-fourths  of  a  mile  per  hour.  The 
same  kind  of  soundings  continued;  some  large  dark  spots  were  dis- 
covered in  the  water,  but  on  examination  they  proved  to  be  shoals  of 
small  fish  resembling  herring.  Immense  flocks  of  sea  birds  were  still 
met  with. 

The  current  from  the  4th  till  the  7th  w.-.s  setting  northeast-by-east, 
ten  to  twenty  miles  a  day ;  water  and  air  continued  at  about  60°. 

On  the  5th,  in  dredging,  they  succeeded  in  obtaining  a  number  of 
interesting  shells,  from  deep  water. 

On  the  9th  they  discovered  the  coast  of  Patagonia,  near  Point 
Lobos.  It  appeared  low  at  first  sight,  but,  on  approaching  it,  showed 
a  level  table-land,  between  four  and  five  hundred  feet  high.  At  ei^ht 
miles  south  of  Cape  Raza,  latitude  44°  20'  S.,  longitude  65°  06'  W.,the 
uater  was  seen  to  break  moderately  in  the  direction  of  east-northeast 
ar^d  west-southwest;  a  boat  was  lowered,  and  an  officer  sent  to  exa- 
iKine  the  shoal :  the  least  depth  of  water  found  was  fourteen  fathoms 

On  the  10th  they  rounded  Cape  Sf.  Joseph's.  The  country  was 
destitute  of  trees  ;  only  a  few  shrubs  were  seen  :  it  appeared  covered 
with  a  tall  grass,  and  the  only  living  thing  seen  was  a  herd  of 
guanacoes. 

During  the  sail  down  the  coast  the  dredge  continued  to  be  used, 
and  with  success,  and  many  interesting  objects  were  obtained  ;  amoncr 
them,  terebratulas,  chitons,  corallines,  sponges,  many  small  and  large 
crustaceous  animals,  iind  large  volutes  (Cymbiola  magellanica.) 

On  the  12th  they  again  discovered  land  to  the  southward  and  west- 
ward, which  afterwards  proved  to  be  Cape  Three  Points.  Captain 
King's  remarks,  relative  to  the  apex  of  one  of  the  hills,  as  not  bein- 
visible  lo  the  northeast,  was  found  to  be  erroneous :  it  was  distinctly 
seen  on  board  the  Relief  at  a  distance  of  twenty  miles.  It  is  one  of 
the  most  remarkable  headlands  of  the  coast,  showing  as  it  does  above 
the  flat  table-land  that  is  immediately  behind  it. 


RIO   NEGRO. 


118 


There  js  a  shoal  to  the  westward  of  Cape  Three  Points,  which 
Lieutenant-Commandant  Long,  after  anchoring,  sent  three  boats  to 
examine.  The  least  water  found  upon  it  was  seven  fathoms;  this 
was  believed  to  be  a  continuation  of  the  Byron  Shoal. 

,  Jw^^'l.^*'^  ^"""^  ''''^'  ^^^"  '"  '""^'^"'^^  4^°  ^^'  S.,  longitude  66°  07' 
11  W. ;  there  is  another  rock  bearing  S.  17°  E.  (true),  about  nine  or 
ten  miles  distant,  in  latitude  48°  38'  44"  S.,  longitude  66°  03'  53"  W  • 
this  last  rock  was  found  to  correspond  in  position  with  the  Bellaco  Rock 
of  Nodales.  It  would  soem,  therefore,  that  there  are  two  rocks,  and 
that  the  one  given  by  Captain  Stokes  is  not  the  true  Bellaco,  but  that 
it  lies  in  the  place  assigned  it  by  Nodales  in  1619;  it  is  probable  that 
the  Relief  is  the  first  vessel  that  has  verified  the  existence  of  both.  To 
account  for  this  discrepancy,  it  is  possible  that  the  true  Bellaco  was 
covered  with  the  tide  when  Captain  Stokes  passed  that  part  of  the 
coast.  At  their  anchorage  the  tide  was  sweeping  past  them  at  a 
furious  rate;  they  had  been  much  affected  by  it  for  the  last  few  days 
and  had,  on  the  many  trials  they  had  made,  found  it  setting  in 
various  directions,  according  as  the  flood  or  ebb  prevailed. 

At  meridian  the  same  day  they  ve.e  off  Port  St.  Julian.  Lieu- 
tonant-Commandant  Long  thinks  the  vicinity  of  Watchman's  Cape 
ought  to  be  avoided,  from  the  strong  currents  that  exist  near  it. 

On  the  19th  they  made  Cape  Virgins,  having  kept  along  the  coast 
until  then,  in  from  ^orty  to  sixty  fathoms  water,  with  bottom  the  same 
as  before  described. 

On  the  21st  they  passed  Cape  St.  Diego  with  a  strong  northwest 
wind,  which  gradually  moderated  and  fell  calm  off  Good  Success 
Bay.  It  was  deemed  prudent  to  wait  until  the  threatening  appearance 
of  the  weather  subsided,  and  at  1  p.  m.,  they  anchored  in  Good  Suc- 
cess Buy. 

The  Relief  had  an  opportunity  of  proving  the  positions  and  sailinff 
directions  of  Captain  King,  R.  N.,  and  it  affords  me  great  pleasure  to 
say  that  all  his  observations  tend  to  show  the  accuracy  of  the  posi- 
t^ions,  and  the  care  with  which  that  officer  has  compiled  his  sailine 
directions.  ° 

No  navigator  frequenting  this  coast  or  passing  round  Cape  Horn 
should  be  without  the  sailing  directions  for  East  and  West  Patagonia 
and  he  will  prize  them  as  highly  valuable  after  he  has  once  used  them' 
The  admirable  surveys  and  exertions  of  this  officer  and  those  under 
him  OR  this  coast  entitle  him  to  the  rewards  of  his  country,  as  well  as 
the  thanks  of  the  civilized  world. 

The  day  they  landed,  no  natives  were  seen,  but  many  marks  of  a 
recent  visit  were  evident  on  the  beach  and  in  the  deserted  huts.    On 

Vol.  I.  K8  15 


114 


RIO   NEGRO. 


the  morning  of  the  22d,  at  daylight,  the  natives  appeared  on  the  beach 
shouting  to   them  to  land.      Lieutenant-Commandant   Long  delavqj 
his  departure  for  a  few  hours,  and  landed  with  a  number  of 'the 
officers.     As  the  boats  approached  the  shore,  the  natives  began  their 
shoutmg,  and  advanced  towards  them  on  their  landing  without  fear 
exhibitmg  a  pleasant  air,  and  apparently  with  every  feeling  of  confi-' 
dence:  they  were  all  unarmed.   An  old  man,  who  was  the  chief,  came 
forward  to  salute  them,  first  by  patting  his  own  breast  several  times, 
and  then  that  of  each  individual  of  the  party,  making  use  of  the  word 
cu-char.he,  dwelling  on  the  first  syllable,  and  accenting  the  last,  in  a 
whinmg  tone  of  voice.    The  meaning  of  cu-char-lie  it  was  impossible 
to  divine,  for  it  was  used  for  every  thing.    After  this  ceremony,  thev 
returned  to  the  thicket,  and  brought  forth  their  bows  and  arrows 
Ihese  people  were  admirable  mimics,  and  would  repeat  all  kinds  of 
sounds,  including  words,  with  great  accuracy:  the  imitation  was  often 
qmte  ridiculous.    They  were  naked,  with  the  exception  of  a  guanacoe 
skin,  which  covered  them  from  the  shoulders  to  the  knees 

Mr.  Agate's  drawing  of  one  of  these  Patagonians,  faces  the  first 
page  of  this  chapter. 

The  party  of  natives  were  seventeen  in  number,  and  with  a  few  ex 
cept.ons  they  were  above  the  European  height.  The  chief,  who  was 
the  oldest  man  among  them,  was  under  fifty  years  of  age,  and  of 
comparatively  low  stature;  his  son  was  one  of  the  tallest,  and  above 
SIX  feet  in  height  They  had  good  figures  and  pleasant-lookina 
countenances,  low  foreheads  and  high  cheek-bones,  with  broad  faces" 
the  lower  part  projecting;  their  hair  was  coarse  and  cut  short  on  the 
crown,  eaviug  .  narrow  border  of  hair  hanging  down;  over  thi.  they 
wore  a  kind  of  cap  or  band  of  skin  or  woollen  yarn.  The  front  teeth 
of  all  of  them  were  very  mu^h  worn,  more  apparent,  however,  in  the 
old  than  in  the  young.    On  one  foot  they  wore  a     ,de  skin  sandal. 

Many  of  them  had  their  faces  painted  in  red  a..a  black  stripes,  with 
clay,  soot,  and  ashes.  Their  whole  appearance,  together  with  their 
inflamed  and  sore  eyes,  was  filthy  and  disgusting.  They  were  thought 
by  the  officers  more  nearly  to  approach  to  the  Patagonians  than  any 
other  natives,  and  were  supposed  to  be  a  small  tribe  who  visit  thi^ 
part  of  Terra  del  Fuego  in  the  summer  months;  they  were  entirelv 
Sour  ^'''""  '^^  P-^t^herais,  whom  we  afterwards  saw  at  Orange 

None  of  their  women  or  children  were  seen,  but  they  were  thought 
to  be  not  far  distant  m  the  wood,  as  they  objected  to  any  of  ou 
people  going  towards  it,  and  showed  much  alarm  when  guns  were 
pointed  in  that  direction.    They  seemed  to  have  a  knowledge  of  fire 


RIO    NEGRO. 


the  beach, 
g  delayofi 
3cr  of  the 
egan  their 
Ihout  fear, 
f  of  confi- 
hief,  came 
3ral  times, 
"the  word 
'  last,  in  a 
impossible 
>ony,  they 
i  arrows. 
I  kinds  of 
was  often 
juanacoe 

the  first 

a  few  ex- 

who  was 
3,  and  of 
nd  above 
It-looking 
•ad  faces, 
•rt  on  the 
this  they 
ont  teeth 
iT,  in  the 
idal. 
ses,  with 
ith  their 
thought 
ban  any 
nsit  this 
entirely 
Orange 

thought 

of  our 

IS  were 

of  fire 


115 


arms,  which  they  called  eu,  or  spirit;  and  kai-eu,  which  they  frequently 
uttered  with  gestures,  was  thought  to  indicate  their  Great  Spirit, 
vKMU 


or 


^^^-"r 
"^^^.v^^- 


PATAOONIANS. 


They  lia.l  little  apparent  curiosity,  and  nothing  seemed  to  attract 
or  cause  them  surprise;  their  principal  characteristic  seemed  to  be 
jealousy.  Though  they  are  a  simple  race,  they  are  not  wanting  in 
cunning;  and  it  was  with  great  difficulty  that  they  could  be  prevailed 
upon  to  part  with  their  bows  and  arrows  in  trade,  which  they  however 
did,  after  asking  permission  from  their  chief:  this  was  always  neces- 
sary for  them  to  obtain  before  closing  a  bargain.  They  have  had 
communication  frequently  before  with  Europeans;  pieces  of  many 
articles  of  European  manufacture  were  seen  in  their  possession,  such 
as  glass-beads,  &c.  They  refused  tobacco,  whiskey,  bread,  or  meat, 
and  were  only  desirous  of  getting  old  iron,  nails,  and  pieces  of  hoop- 
iron. 

Their  food  consists  principally  of  fish  and  shell-fish.  Their  fishing 
apparatus  is  made  of  the  dorsal  fin  of  a  fish,  tied  to  a  thin  slip  of 
wiialebone,  in  the  form  of  a  barb ;  this  serves  as  a  good  hook,  and  with 
it  they  obtain  a  supply  of  this  food.  Their  arms  consisted  altogether 
of  bows  and  arrows.  The  natives  had  the  common  dog,  which  they 
seemed  to  prize  much. 

Mr.  Rich  employed  his  time  in  botanical  researches :  the  prominent 
plants  were  Berberes,  Winteria,  Vaccinium,  Andromeda,  Composite, 
(some  woody)  Cruciferee,  Umbelliferse,  &c.    A  number  of  these  were 


116 


RIO   NEGRO. 


just  putting  forth  their  flowering  buds.     Scurvy-grusses  and  wild 
celery  abounded. 

The  tracks  of  the  guanacoe  were  seen,  and  some  land-shells  were 
obtained. 

Captain  King's  description  of  this  bay  was  found  to  be  correct;  the 
position  of  it  by  the  Relief's  chronometers  was  65°  IT  31"  W.,  by 
sights  taken  on  shore,  which  is  2'  13"  to  the  west  of  the  longitude 
assigned  it  by  him.  The  latitude  was  not  obtained,  but  that  given  by 
Captain  King,  64°  48'  S.,  is  believed  to  be  correct. 

The  morning  of  the  23d  they  left  Good  Success  Bay.  On  the  25th, 
having  made  but  little  progress  to  the  westward,  and  the  usual  and 
certain  appearance  of  bnd  weather  approaching,  Lieutenant-Corn- 
mandant  Long  determined  to  anchor  under  New  Island  to  await  it 
which  was  accordingly  done  at  five  o'clock  the  same  evening,  in 
thirty  fathoms.  Shortly  afterwards  it  jlew  furiously,  with  rain  and 
hail,  which  continued  throughout  the  night. 

The  plants  were  the  same  as  those  seen  at  Good  Success  Bay,  but 
were  much  farther  advanced,  being  in  full  flower.  Several  heath-like 
plants  and  many  new  grasses  were  procured.  During  the  time  they 
were  at  anchor,  some  tide  was  perceptible,  but  it  was  quite  irregular. 
The  latitude  of  the  anchorage  was  determined  to  be  55°  1?'  S. 
longitude  66°  13'  W.  It  is  not  deemed  a  suitable  or  safe  anchorage, 
unless  well  provided  with  good  ground-tackle. 

On  the  26th  they  again  were  under  way  for  Orange  Harbour,  which 
they  reached  four  days  afterwards,  where  they  were  employed  pre- 
paring  for  sea  and  accumulating  fire-wood,  preparatory  to  the  arrival 
of  the  rest  of  the  squadron.  They  had  also  established  a  light-house 
on  the  top  of  Burnt  Island,  which  forms  the  protection  to  Orange 
Harbour  on  the  east,  as  directed  by  their  orders.  On  the  17th  of 
February,  as  before  stated,  the  Relief  was  joined  by  the  rest  of  the 
squadron. 


FUEOIAN  PADDLES. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


CONTENTS 

ORANGE  HARBOUR -PLAN  OP  THE  SaUADRONS  OPERATIONS  -  NATIVES  -  THEtR 
APPEAEANCE-THEIR  HUTS-ARRIVAL  Qf  NAT.VES-THEIR  TALENT  FOR  MIM.CKRV 
-VISIT  TO  THEIR  HUTS-THEIR  POOD-SOIL  NEAR  ORANGE  HARBOUR  -  TIDES - 
WHALES. 


urn 


'I'Uv.^Mtaimti  ifritt'in.o- 


CHAPTKK    VI. 


T  £  il 


HE' 


i  H  :\ «(. 


ui>  Ine  vve.stein  nido  of  Nasauw  W 


n  it  by  Burn'  T  l.m,!     Tt 
'  houf  oil   fl,  ,,.    j,i|i^ 


13  nearly  I.-uui 


"Cii-JU, 


"tl   CMch    sidii.    ■.') 


v,im 


Ling  ha 


-">  ••'.  i" -.11 


■inyr  W'ih   the   r-lirn 


ulci'-Ur..' 

nil     :), 


..  i:i;K;    lUiUSi    iins    the   ;,, 

^      but  nil  our  investigatiuu,  i.;uMca  u,  i„,.w.; 

'  "     '"  '  •  "'    iHiSlfluiii.    iii'i      V,  ;is    iaCi" 

'■>i'i;;  as  cxioUag.     'J,Y  ■,■■■• 

iopurenUy  having  midi!..:-.,.    .  .,;,.;.  i,    ,„,, 

Immedialfly  nn  HIT  nrrivMl  •  i\<    r  .,  t: 


CHAPTER    VI. 

TERRA   DEL  FUEGO. 


'  1839. 

OiiANGE  Harbour  is  or.  the  western  side  of  Nassau  Bay,  separated 
and  protected  frorn  it  by  Burnt  Island.  It  is  nearly  landLked.  and 
■s  the  safes  harbour  on  the  coast.  The  hills  on  each  side,  after 
several  nndulations.  ri.e  into  conical  peaks,  and  the  naked  rock  is 
every  where  broken  ,nto  a  jagged  outline,  with  no  creeping  plants  to 
soften  or  take  off  xts  harshness.  Every  thing  has  a  bleak  and  wintry 
appearance,  and  is  in  excellent  keeping  with  the  climate;  yet  the 

Z  iT-  U%  ''  t  f  ""^  '"^  ^'^  'y^'  b«""ded  on  all  sides  by 
undulating  hills,  which  are  covered  with  evergreen  foliage.  Distant 
mountains,  some  of  which  are  capped  with  snow,  shooting  up  in  a 
variety  of  forms,  seen  beyond  the  extensive  bays,  form  a  fine  back- 
ground. From  the  vessels,  the  hills  look  like  smooth  downs,  and  if  it 
were  not  for  the  inclemency  and  fitfulness  of  the  weather,  they  m  gh 
be  contemplated  with  some  pleasure.  ^ 

The  hills  are  covered  with  dense  forests  of  beech,  birch,  willow 
and  winter-bark.    Some  of  the  former  trees  are  forty  or  fifty  feet  high,' 
liavmg  al    the.r  tops  bent  to  the  northeast  by  the  preva^c  soufh 
west  winds.     They  are  remarkably  even  as  i  height,  having  mo  e 
the  look,  at  a  distance,  of  heath,  than  of  forest  trees.  ^ 

rock^Zl'lu  """'■  ^«^^h^^PP«-^'^"-«  of  being  of  recent  volcanic 
locks,  but  all  our  investigations  tended  to  prove  the  contrary.  We 
nowhere  found  any  cellular  lava,  pumice,  or  obsidian,  nor  was  there 
any  granite,  or  other  primitive  rock  seen,  though  reported  by  Captain 
King  as^  exiling.  The  rock  was  trachytic. 'or  of  trap  formatlo" 
apparently  having  undergone  more  or  less  action  by  fire 

Immediately  on  our  arrival  at  Orange  Harbour,  active  preparations 
were  made  for  a  short  cruise  to  the  Antarctic.     Although  the  season 

(1J9) 


180 


TERRA    DEL    FUEGO. 


was  late,  I  at  least  anticipated  getting  some  experience  among  the 
ice;  and  I  supposed  that  the  lateness  of  the  season  would  have  allowed 
It  to  detach  itself  from  the  shores  of  Palmer's  Land,  and  would  permit 
as  near  an  approach  as  possible  to  its  main  body  or  barrier,  in  the 
vicinity  of  Cook's  ]Ne  Plus  Ultra. 


"V^ 


Agreeably  to  my  instructions,  such  disposition   was  made  of  the 
squadron  as  seemed  best  calculated  to  obtain  the  necessary  results  in 
the  different  departments.    Captain  Hudson,  with  the  Peacock,  and 
he  Flying-Fish,  under  Lieutenant  Walker,  as  a  tender,  were  ordered 
to  the  westward,  as  far  as  the  Ne  Plus  Ultra  of  Cook.     I  went  in  the 
Porpoise,  Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold,  accompanied  by  the  Sea- 
Uull,  Lieutenant  Johnson,  to  pass  to  the  south,  for  the  purpose  if  pos- 
sible of  exploring  the  southeast  side  of  Palmer's  Land,  or,  should  an 
opportunity  offer,  of  proceeding  further  south.    The  Relief,  Lieutenant- 
Commandant  Long,  was  ordered  into  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  through 
th..  Brecknock  Passage  and  Cockburn's  Sound,  with  part  of  the  gentle- 
men of  the  scientific  corps,  in  order  to  enlarge  our  field  of  operations. 
Mr.  Peale  volunteered  to  go  south  in  the  Peacock. 

The  Vincennes  was  safely  moored  in  Orange  Harbour,  and  left 
under  the  charge  of  Lieutenant  Craven,  to  carry  on  the  investigations, 
surveys,  &c.  &c.  Messrs.  Couthouy  and  Drayton,  of  the  scientific 
corps,  remained  in  the  Vincennes.  Lieutenant  Carr  was  put  in  charge 
ol  the  observatory.  ° 


TERRA    DEL    FUEGO.  jgj 

In  making  the  changes  necessary  for  this  cruise  to  the  south    I 
regretted  extremely  being  compelled;  from  the  want  of  jUor  offit'rs 
to  supersede  temporarily  both  Passed  Midshipmen  Rei^  and  Knox  •„' 
command  of  the  two  tenders.     These  officers  had  not  the"r  superb  s 

tatn  ca're  0      !  haV  ^^  ""T  T  ^''''^'  '^'  "^^^«'«  ^«»ld  be  well 

here  to  acknowledge  how  much  ^'^:^^^^:^  tZ^ 
ms  services  on  board  the  Flying-Fish.    He  not  only  had  the  abTli  v 
bu    the  necessary  perseverance  and  ambition,  to  pLfcl  his  dS 
v.dl.     So  arduous  were  they,  that  I  was  for  a  time'obS  to   ran  S 
him  to  my  ship  on  account  of  his  health     Tho  i"  iransier 

pos«,o„  toward,  ,hem,  ,hey  became  more  socfable  a„dTo„X 
Before  our  departure  from  Orange  Harbour  n  h.rl,  *' 

alongside  „i,h  an  Indian,  hi,  sqnaw^nd  fote  hildre„     tT,  T? 
»  .ch  .hey  belonged  is  known  by  .he  name  of  .  f  ILhe^a  ^1° 

rhey  were  not  more  than  five  feet  hiVh  nf  o  r  u* 
Which  i   m„eh  concealed  by  smu.  S  dSl'^LlSroXirtr 
Which  they  mark  vertica  ly  with  charcoal      Thp,r  h        '"'eiriaces, 
narrow  foreheads,  and  Hi/ chee.bor  The'%''s"rrera,f  S 

•  The  instructions  issued  for  the  proceedines  of  the  vessels  Will  hn  r     a       u       .. 
Appendix,  from  XXV.  to  XXX.  inclusive  embraced  m  the 

VOL.1.  i^  ■       .g 


198 


TERRA    DEL    FUEGO. 


Usually  black,  the  upper  eyelids  in  the  inner  corner  overlapping  the 
under  one,  and  bear  a  strong  resemblance  to  those  of  the  Chinese. 
Their  nose  is  broad  and  flat,  with  wide-spread  nostrils,  mouth  large, 
teeth  white,  large,  and  regular.  The  hair  Is  long,  lank,  and  black, 
hanging  over  the  face,  and  is  covered  with  white  ashes,  which  gives 
them  a  hideous  appearance.  The  whole  face  is  compressed.  Their 
bodies  are  remarkable  from  the  great  developement  of  the  chest,  shoul- 
ders,and  vertebral  column;  their  arms  are  long,  and  out  of  proportion ; 
their  legs  small  and  ill  made.  There  is  in  fact  little  difference  between 
the  size  of  the  ankle  and  leg ;  and  when  standing,  the  skin  at  the  knee 
hangs  in  a  large  loose  fold.  In  some,  the  muscles  of  the  leg  appear 
almost  wanting,  and  possess  very  little  strength.  This  want  of  de- 
velopement in  the  muscles  of  the  legs  is  owing  to  their  constant  sitting 
posture,  both  in  their  huts  and  canoes.  Their  skin  is  sensibly  colder 
than  ours.    It  is  impossible  to  fancy  any  thing  in  human  nature  more 


NATIVE  OP  TERRA  DEL  FUEGO. 

filthy.    They  are  nn  ill-shapen  and  ugly  race.*    They  have  little  or  no 
Idea  of  the  relative  value  of  articles,  even  of  those  that  one  would 
suppose  were  of  the  utmost  ise  to  them,  such  as  iron  and  glass-ware 
A  glass  bottle  broken  into  pieces,  is  valued  as  much  ns  a  knife.     Red 

•  For  their  dimensions,  sec  Table  of  Comparative  Proportinns,  at  the  end  of  the  work. 


TERRA    DEL    FUEGO. 


123 


flannel,  torn  into  stripes,  pleases  them  more  than  in  the  piece;  they 
wound  It  around  their  heads,  as  a  kind  of  turban,  and  it  was  amusing 
to  see  their  satisfaction  at  this  small  acquisition. 

The  children  were  quite  small,  and  nestled  in  the  bottom  of  the 
canoe  on  some  dry  grass.  The  woman  and  eldest  boy  paddled  the 
canoe,  the  man  being  employed  to  bail  out  the  water  and  attend  to  the 
fire,  which  is  always  carried  in  the  bottom  of  the  canoe,  on  a  few 
stones  and  ashes,  which  the  water  surrounds. 


#..>^k!' 


>:«■ 


Their  canoes  are  constructed  of  bark,  are  very  frail,  and  sewed  with 
shreds  of  whalebone,  sealskin,  and  twigs.  They  are  sharp  at  both 
ends,  and  are  kept  in  shape  as  well  as  strengthened  by  a  number  of 
stretchers  lashed  to  the  gunwale. 

These  Indians  seldom  venture  outside  thf  kelp,  by  the  aid  of  which 
they  pull  themselves  along;  and  their  paddles  are  so  small  as  to  be  of 
imie  use  in  propelling  their  canoes,  unless  it  is  calm.  Some  of  the 
officers  thought  they  recognised  a  party  on  the  Hermit  Islands  that  had 
been  on  board  ship  at  Orange  Harbour.  If  this  was  the  case,  they 
must  have  ventured  across  the  Bay  of  Nassau,  a  distance  of  some  ten 
or  twelve  miles.  This,  if  correct,  would  go  to  prove  that  there  is 
more  intercourse  among  them  than  their  frail  barks  would  lead  one  to 
expect. 

Their  huts  are  generl .  found  built  close  to  the  shore,  at  the  head 
of  some  smaM  bay,  in  a  secluded  spot,  and  sheltered  from  the  prevailing 
winds.     They  are  built  of  boughs  or  small  trees,  sfuck  in  the  earth. 


124 


TERRA    DEL    FUEGO. 


and  brought  together  at  the  top,  where  they  are  firmly  bound  by  bark, 
sedge,  and  twigs.  Smaller  branches  are  then  interlaced,  forming  a 
tolerably  compact  wicker-work,  and  on  this,  grass,  turf,  and  bark  are 
laid,  making  the  hut  quite  warm,  and  impervious  to  the  wind  and  snow, 
though  not  quite  so  to  the  rain.  The  usual  dimensions  of  these  huts 
are  jeven  or  eight  feet  in  diameter,  and  about  four  or  five  feet  in 
height.  They  have  an  oval  hole  to  creep  in  at.  The  fire  is  built  in  a 
small  excavation  in  the  middle  of  the  hut.  The  floor  is  of  clay,  which 
has  the  appearance  of  having  been  well  kneaded.    The  usual  accom- 


FUEGIANa  AND  HUT. 


paniment  of  a  hut  is  a  conical  pile  of  shells  opposite  the  door,  nearly 
as  large  as  the  hut  itself.  «, 

Their  occupancy  of  a  hut  seems  to  be  limited  to  the  supply  of  shell- 
fish, consisting  of  mussels  and  limpets,  in*  the  neighbourhood. 

These  natives  are  never  seen  but  in  their  huts  or  canoes.  The 
impediments  to  their  communication  by  land  are  great,  growing  out  of 
the  mountainous  and  rocky  character  of  the  country,  intersected  with 
inlets  deep  and  impassable,  and  in  most  places  bounded  by  abrupt 
precipices,  together  with  a  soil  which  may  be  termed  a  quagmire,  on 
which  it  is  diiBcuh  to  walk.  This  prevails  on  the  hills  as  well  as  in 
the  plains  and  valleys.  The  impenetrable  nature  of  the  forest,  with  the 
dense  undergrowth  of  thorny  bushes,  renders  it  impossible  for  them  to 
overcome  or  contend  with  these  difliculties.  They  appear  to  live  in 
families,  and  n?t  in  tribes,  and  do  not  seem  to  acknowledge  any  chief 

On  the  11th  of  March  three  bark  canoes  arrived,  containing  four 
men,  four  women,  and  a  girl  about  sixteen  years  old,  four  little  boys 
and  four  infants,  one  of  the  latter  about  a  week  old,  and  quite  naked. 
The  thermometer  was  at  46°  Fahrenheit.  They  had  rude  weapons, 
viz.,  slings  to  throw  stones,  three  rude  spears,  pointed  at  the  end  with 
bone,  and  notched  on  one  side  with  barbed  teeth.  With  this  thev 
catch  their  fish,  which  are  in  great  quantities  among  the  kelp.  Two 
of  the  natives  were  induced  to  come  on  board,  after  they  had  been 
alongside  for  upwards  of  an  hour,  and  received  many  presents,  for 


TERRA   DEL  FUEGO. 


196 


wh,ch  they  gave  their  spears,  a  dog.  and  some  of  their  rude  native 

r.nkets.     They  did  not  show  or  express  surprise  at  any  thing  or! 

board  except  when  seeing  one  of  the  carpenters  engaged  in  bfrlng 

a  hole  w;th  a  screw-auger  through  a  plank,  which  would  have  been  f 

oind  ft  K  ":  ^''''  ""^  ^"^  ^^"^^^'^«'  «-•""§  -hen  spoken 
to.  and  often  bursting  into  loud  laughter,  but  instantly  settling  into 
their  natural  serious  and  sober  cast.  ^ 

They  were  found  to  be  great  mimics,  both  in  gesture  and  sound, 
and  would  repeat  any  word  of  onr  language,  with  great  correct"  s 
of  pronunciation.  Their  imitations  of  sounds  were  truly  astonishing 
One  of  them  ascended  and  descended  the  octave  perfectly,  following 
he  sounds  of  the  violin  correctly.  It  was  then  found  he  could  sounf 
the  common  chords,  and  follow  through  the  semitone  scale,  with 
scarcely  an  error  They  have  all  musical  voices,  speak  in  the  note  G 
sharp,  ending  with  the  semitone  A,  when  asking  for  presents,  and  were 
continually  singing,  °        f  »     •"  were 


Yah    mass    scoo  nah         Yah    mass    ecco  nah. 

Their  mimickry  became  annoying,  and  precluded  our  getting  at  any 
of  their  words  or  ideas.    It  not  only  extended  to  words  or  sounds^ 
but  actions  also,  and  was  at  times  truly  ridiculous.    The  usual  manner 
of  interrogating  for  names  was  quite  unsuccessful.    On  pointing  to  the 
nose  for  instance  they  did  the  same.    Any  thing  they  saw  done  they 
would  mimic,  and  with  an  extraordinary  degree  of  accuracy.     On 
these  canoes  approaching  the  ship,  the  principal  one  of  the  familv.  or 
chief,  standing  up  in  his  canoe,  made  a  harangue.    He  spoke  in  G 
natural,  and  did  not  vary  his  voice  more  than  a  semitone.     The  pitch 
of  the  voice  of  the  female  is  an  octave  higher.    Although  they  have 
been  heard  to  shout  quite  loud,  yet  they  cannot  endure  a  noise.    When 
the  drum  beat,  or  a  gun  was  fired,  they  invariably  stopped  their  ears. 
They  always   speak   to  each  other  in  a  whisper.    Their  cautious 
manner  and  movements  prove  them  to  be  a  timid  race.    The  men  are 
exceedingly  jealous  of  their  women,  and  will  not  allow  anyone,  if  they 
can  help  it,  to  enter  their  huts,  particulariy  boys. 

The  wonien  were  never  suffered  to  come  on  board.  They  appeared 
modest  in  the  presence  of  strangers.  They  never  move  from  a  sitting 
posture  or  rather  a  squat,  with  their  knees  close  together,  reaching  to 
their  chin  their  feet  in  contact  and  touching  the  lower  part  of  the 
body.  They  are  extremely  ugly.  Their  hands  and  feet  were  small 
and  well-shaped.  and  from  appearance  they  are  not  accustomed  to  do 


196 


TERRA    DEL   FUEGO. 


any  hard  work.  They  appear  very  fond  and  seem  careful  of  thuir 
young  children,  though  on  several  occasions  they  offered  them  for  sale 
for  a  trifle.  They  have  their  faces  smutted  all  over,  and  it  was 
thought,  from  the  hideous  appearance  of  the  females,  produced  in 
part  by  their  being  painted  and  smutted,  that  they  had  been  disfigured 
by  the  men  previous  to  coming  alongside.  It  was  remarked  that  when 
one  of  them  saw  herself  in  a  looking-glass,  she  burst  into  tears,  as 
Jack  thought  from  pure  mortification. 

The  men  are  employed  in  building  the  huts,  obtaining  food,  and 
providing  for  their  other  wants.  The  women  were  generally  seen 
paddling  their  canoes. 

When  this  party  of  natives  left  the  ship  and  reached  the  shore,  the 
women  remained  in  their  canoes,  and  the  men  began  building  their 
temporary  huts ;  the  little  children  were  seen  capering  quite  naked  on 
the  beach,  although  the  thermometer  was  at  40°.  On  the  hut  being 
finished,  which  occupied  about  an  hour,  the  women  went  on  shore  to 
take  possession  of  it.     They  all  seemed  quite  happy  and  contented. 

Before  they  ieft  the  ship,  the  greater  part  of  them  were  dressed  in  old 
clothes,  that  had  been  given  to  them  by  the  officers  and  men,  who  all 
showed  themselves  extremely  anxious  "to  make  them  comfortable." 
This  gave  rise  to  much  merriment,  as  Jack  was  not  disposed  to  allow 
any  difficulties  to  interfere  in  the  fitting.  If  the  jackets  proved  too 
tight  across  the  shoulders,  which  they  invariably  were,  a  slit  down 
the  back  effectually  remedied  the  defect.  If  a  pair  of  trousers  was 
found  too  small  around  the  waist,  the  knife  wa?  again  resorted  to,  and 
in  some  cases  a  fit  was  made  by  severing  the  legs.  The  most  difficult 
fit,  and  the  one  which  produced  the  most  merriment,  was  that  of  a 
woman  to  whom  an  old  coat  was  given.  This  she  concluded  belonged 
to  her  nether  limbs,  and  no  signs,  hints,  or  shouts,  could  correct  her 
mistake.  Her  feet  were  thrust  through  the  sleeves,  and  after  hard 
squeezing  she  succeeded  in  drawing  them  on.  With  the  skirts  brought 
up  in  front,  she  took  her  seat  in  the  canoe  with  great  satisfaction,  amid 
a  roar  of  laughter  from  all  who  saw  her. 

Towards  evening,  Messrs.  Waldron  and  Drayton  visited  their  huts. 
Before  they  reached  the  shore,  the  natives  were  seen  making  a  fire  on 
the  beach,  for  their  reception,  evidently  to  avoid  their  entering  their 
huts. 

On  landing,  one  of  the  men  seemed  anxious  to  talk  with  them.  He 
pointed  to  the  ship,  and  tried  to  express  many  things  by  gestures, 
then  pointed  to  the  southeast,  and  then  again  to  the  ship,  after  which, 
clasping  his  hands,  as  in  our  mode  of  prayer,  he  said  "  Eloah,  Eloah," 
as  though  he  thought  we  had  come  from  God. 


TERRA   DEL   FUEGO. 


127 


After  a  little  time,  they  gained  admittance  to  the  hut.     The  men 
creepmg  m  first   squatted  themselves  directly  in  front  of  the  women 

the.r  bod  es     The  women  were  squatted  three  deep  behind  the  men 

the  oldest  m  front  nestling  the  infants.  ' 

After  being  in  the  hut,  Mr.  Drayton  endeavoured  to  call  the  atten- 

!h"th  fh'  T","'''  '^^  "^'^^  ^'^"^  ''  h™  I'^fo-  entering,  to  know 
whether  they  had  any  idea  of  a  Supreme  Being.  The  same  man  the^ 
put  his  hands  together,  repeating  as  before,  "  Eloah,  Eloah.^   F  om 

X^B^r^^  '''''"''  ''''  ''-'  '-'  —  ^^-  «^  ^^^oZ 

ThTv'*'  7  m''^  «^F«;sing  friendship  is  by  jumping  up  and  down. 
They  made  Messrs  Waldron  and  Drayton  jump'with  them  on  The 
beach,  before  entering  the  hut.  took  hold  of  their  arms,  facing  them 

slaiiiLwinis!:;: '-'- '-  ^'^  «--^'  -^^-^  ^^- .:; 


'a     la       la      la  la      la 


la      la. 


All  our  endeavours  to  find  out  how  they  ignited  their  fire  proved 

unavaihng.    It  must  be  exceedingly  difficuU  fJr  them  to  ac'lhsh 

udgmg  from  the  care  they  take  of  it,  always  carrying  it  with  Them 

m  their  canoes,  and  the  danger  they  thus  run  of  injiaring  themsdve^ 

titils'' of  tl^  ""f"'"  "^  ^'7^''''  '""^^''^'  ^"'^  ^'^'^  «hell-fish.    Quan- 
tities of  fish,  and  some  seals,  are  now  and  then  taken  among  the  keln 

and  with  berries  of  various  kinds,  and  wild  celery,  they  doVot  wait' 

They  seldom  cook  their  food  much.     The  shell-fish  are  detached  from 

r^g  cLl^  "'  ^'^ '''  ^^^ ''-''  ^^"^^^^  ^"  ^'^^  «^-'  -itL"; 

When  on  board,  one  of  them  was  induced  to  sit  at  the  dinner-table- 
after  a  few  lessons,  he  handled  his  knife  and  fork  with  much  Sexteri  y 

watef  Salt  :f  ''^'''  ^"'  "^"^'  ^"^  ^^  ^^^  ^-^  of  sweete^i 
water.     Salt  provisions  were  not  at  all  to  his  liking,  but  rice  and 

pum-pudding  were  agreeable  to  his  taste,  and  he  litera  ly  c  a^^d 

rertTod  h  ""''•  •  ^^\'''  ^PP^^'^^  '^'  ^-"  satisfied.'he  wT 
great  good  humour,  s.ngmg  his  "  Hey  meh  leh,"  dancing  and  laughina 


IM 


TERRA    DEL    F  U  E  G  O. 


His  mimickry  prevented  any  satisfactory  in(|uirics  being  made  of  him 
relative  to  a  vocabulary. 

Some  of  the  officers  painted  the  faces  of  these  natives  black,  white 
and  red:  this  delighted  them  very  much,  and  it  was  quite  amusing  to 
see  the  grmiaces  made  by  them  before  a  looking-glas*). 

One  of  these  natives  remained  on  board  for  upwards  of  a  week,  and 
being  washed  and  combed,  ho  became  two  or  three  shades  lighter  in 
colour.  Clothes  were  put  on  him.  He  was  about  twenty-three  years 
•  of  age;  and  was  unwell  the  whole  time  he  was  on  board,  from  eating 
such  quantities  of  rice,  &c.  His  astonishment  was  very  great  on 
attendmg  divine  service.  The  moment  the  chaplain  began  to  read 
from  the  book,  his  eyes  were  riveted  upon  him,  where  they  remained 
as  long  as  he  continued  to  read.  At  the  end  of  the  week  he  became 
dissatisfied,  and  was  set  on  shore,  and  soon  appeared  naked  again.  It 
was  observed  on  presents  being  made,  that  those  who  did  not  receive 
any  began  a  sort  of  whining  cry,  putting  on  the  most  doleful-look  ins 
countenances  imaginable. 

They  are  much  addicted  to  theft,  if  any  opportunity  offers.  The 
night  before  they  left  the  bay,  they  stole  and  cut  up  one  of  the  wind- 
sails,  which  had  been  scru^  '.ed  and  hung  up  on  shore  to  dry. 

Although  we  had  no  absolute  proof  of  it,  we  are  inclined  to  the  belief 
that  they  bury  their  dead  in  caves. 

There  is  a  black-coloured  moss  that  covers  the  ground  in  places 
giving  It  the  appearance  of  having  been  burnt.  Many  small  ponds  are 
met  with,  as  though  the  peat  had  been  dug  up  from  the  place,  and  the 
ho  es  filled  with  water.  There  is  great  plenty  of  scurvy-grass  and  wild 
celery  close  to  the  beach. 

Here  any  quantity  of  water  may  be  obtained  on  the  top  and  sloping 
sides  of  the  hills.  ^   ^ 

The  decomposition  of  the  feldspathic  rocks  appears  to  be  going  on 
rapidly.  This,  combined  with  vegetable  matter,  forms  a  rich  soil- 
but  It  is  so  exceedingly  wet  from  the  constant  rains  and  snows,  that 
it  IS  very  questionable  if  any  agricultural  operations  could  succeed. 

At  Orange  Harbour  the  tide  was  found  to  have  four  feet  rise  and 
a  I.  High  water,  full  and  change,  at  4  p.  m.  Among  the  Hermit 
Islands  it  seems  to  be  affected  by  the  winds  in  the  offing  The  flood 
sets  to  the  east 

Large  numbers  of  humpback  whales  were  seen  in  March,  about 
Orange  Harbour. 

In  a  small  cove  on  New  Island,  a  different  description  of  hut  was 
seen  by  the  officers  of  the  Relief.  Not  having  met  with  any  natives, 
It  was  not  in  their  power  to  ascertain  if  it  belonged  to  the  same  tribe 


TERRA    DEL    FUEGO. 


129 


It  was  built  of  logs,  with  their  upper  ends  leaning  together,  in  the 
form  of  a  cone,  and  nearly  circular  at  the  base;  the  interstices  were 
filled  with  grass,  leaves,  and  earth,  in  which  some  grasses  had  taken 
root,  and  were  growing.     It  is  represented  in  the  tail-piece. 


DEPA 

rSLAI 

-OA] 

ISLAf 

LIEU1 

rORP( 

TOGC 

BAY- 

\ATn 

PENG! 

CAPT/ 

OP   L/ 

WOLL. 

FI8H. 


CHAPTEH   VII. 


CONTENTS. 

DEPARTURE    OF    rOR..O,.E  -  WHALE- 8,UP  -  HEIGHT   OP    WAVES  -  KING    GEORGES 
mLAND-O'BRIENB   A^D   A8PLAND8   .«i.AND9-,.ALMER8  .,AND-ADVENTt;„E  ,H,ETa 
-OALE-SEA-GULL  ORDERED  TO  RETURN- RETURN   OF  THE   PURPO.SE-ELEPHANT 
ISLAND^OOD  SUCCESS  BAY-BOAT  nKTA.NED-ArTEMPT  TO  REL.EVE-ACC.DENT- 
L.EUTENANT   HARTSTEIN-OALE-FURTHER    ATTEMPT  TO    RELIEVE   THE   PARTY- 
.•ORPOISE  COMPELLED  TO   PUT  TO   SEA-CAPE  ST.  DIEGO-ANCHOR  OFF  IT-RETURN 
TO  GOOD  SUCCESS  BAV-PARTV  JOIN-THEIR  TRANSACTIONS-LEAVE  GOOD  SUn-ESS 
BAV- NASSAU    BAY  -  DARK    NIGHT -FIND   OURSELVES    AMONG    KELP  -  ANCHOR 
NATIVES-REACH  ORANGE  HARBOUR-ALL  WELL-SEA-GULL-DECEPTION  ISL.NdI 
PENGUIN8-SEA.LE0PARD-TEMPERATURE-VISIT   TO    CRATER-FORCE  OF  WIND 
CAPTAIN  BMILEY-DEPARTURE-ARRIVAL   AT  ORANGE   HARBOUR-SENT    IN   SEARCH 
OF    LAUNCH -LOSS    OF   THAT    BOAT  -  RETURN    OF   SEA-GULL  -  AGAIN    SAILS    FOR 
WOLLASTONS    ISLAND-BAILY   ISLAND-SEA-OULL   HARBOUR-ARRIVAL   OF   FLY«,. 
FISH. 


(Ill) 


I 

CHAPTER  VII. 

SOUTHERN    CRUISE. 
1839. 

On  the  25th  of  February,  having  completed  the  arrangements  for 

h^rLronhT''",'^"^^^^'  '"^'^"^^^"^  ^-  ''^  coir  e 

he  duties  of  the  Expedition  in  case  of  my  being  detained  among  the 
ice.  the  signal  was  ordered  to  be  made  for  the  vessels  to  get  fnder 

la    the  Vin  t  ^'"^  """'  '"^  ''^P''^^^^  ''^'^'^  ^"^  dfsappointmen. 
that  the  Vincennes   was  not  going  south.    All  I  could  do,  was  to 

promise  them  enough  of  Antarctic  cruising  the  next  year,  and  I  ^el  eve 

hey  are  now  all  satisfied  that  I  kept  my  word.     AbJut  7  ..  1  we  If 

the  harbour,  with  a  light  breeze  from  the  north,  having  the  SerGul 

of  which  vesse  Lieutenant  Johnson  was  in  charge,  in  company     On 

cneers,  which  were  duly  returned. 

Various  causes   conspired   to  render    our  short   stay   in  Orange 
Harbour  the  turning  point  of  the  discipline  of  the  cruise.  \  cannot  but 
express   my   surprise,   even   at   this   distant  day.   that   any  officer 
embarked  in  this  undertaking  could  have  so  far  lo  t  sight  of^hel  du  v 

tl  dutsT  ^'  ''r  ^'T'^'  '"  ^'^^  ^^y^'^'^  Prom'pt  execu  L:^^^^ 
he  duties  they  owed  to  the  country,  and  the  service  on  which  they 

r^nrtiits^^^^^^^^ '-''  -'  -^-^«  -^^-  -  p- 

At  the  mouth  ofthe  harbour,  Captain  Hudson  and  the  few  officers 
who  had  accompanied  us.  took  their  leave.  I  must  own  at  that  momen 
fet  greatly  depressed,  for  I  was  well  aware  that  we  had  n'  ny.  Z 

produced  by  the  kind  of  service  on  which  we  .vere  enga<^ed.  that  gives 
a  stout  heart,  braces  it  for  meeting  almost  cverv  em  ^ 


3ncv  that 


ina\ 


134 


SOUTHERN   CRUISE. 


happen,  and  causes  one  to  look  forward  with  hope  to  ..vercnme  the 
difficuhies  that  may  He  in  the  path.  After  a  short  time  we  saw  the 
Peacock  and  Flying-Fish  under  sail,  following  us. 

The  wind  continued  light,  with  fine  weather,  until  the  afternoon 
The  whole  scenery  around  us  was  viewed  to  great  advantage,  under  a 
mild  state  of  the  atmosphere,  taking  away  from  it  the  usual  gloomy 
aspect  which  a  sky,  overcast  and  boisterous,  gives.  A  dense  bank  of 
eumuh  m  the  southwest  foretold  that  we  were  not  long  to  enjoy  such 
moderate  weather.  About  4  p.  m.,  a  heavy  squall  struck  us,  which 
soon  took  us  clear  of  the  islands,  on  our  course  to  the  southward. 

On  the  26th,  we  discovered  a  sail,  which  proved  to  be  the  whale- 

ship  America,  from  New  Zealand,  bound  to  New  York,  and  afforded 

us  an  opportunity  of  writing  home,  which  we  gladly  availed  ourselves 

of.     The  master  of  the  America  informed  me  that  he  had  experienced 

constant   heavy  winds,   and  had   been   thirty-five   days   from   New 

Zealand;  that  the  ship  was  very  leaky,  but  having  a  full  cargo  of 

three  thousand  eight  hundred  barrels  of  oil,  he  was  in  great  spirits. 

I  have  seldom  seen  at  sea  a  more  uncombed  and  dirty  set  of  mariners 

than  his  crew.     How  they  preserve  any  tolerable  state  of  health  I 

know  not,  and  it  is  not  at  all  surprising  that  the  ravages  of  scurvy 

should  be  felt  on  board  of  some  vessels  belonging  to  the  whalinrr  fleet, 

if  this  IS  the  usual  state  in  which  they  are  kept.  ^ 

After  delivering  our  letters,  we  bore  away  to  the  southeast,  the  wind 
inclining  to  the  northwest  and  blowing  heavv,  with  a  high  and 
remarkably  regular  sea  following.  This  afforded  me  an  opportunity 
I  had  long  desired,  for  making  observations  to  determine  the  height 
of  the  waves,  together  with  their  width  and  velocity.  It  is  obviouslv 
very  difficult  to  do  this  with  correctness.  I  shall  therefore  state  the 
means  which  I  adopted,  in  order  that  it  may  be  perceived  what 
reliance  is  to  be  placed  on  the  results. 

This  opportunity  was  far  more  favourable  than  that  which  occurred 
off  Madeira,  when  I  was  enabled  to  get  only  an  approximation  to 
their  velocity:  they  were  not  then  urged  on  by  any  fresh  impetus,  as 
in  the  present  case. 

The  Porpoise  was  directly  ahead  of  the  Sea-Gull,and  but  two  waves 
apart ;  the  rate  of  sailing  was  about  eight  knots  an  hour,  both  vessels 
bemg  apparently  very  steady.  In  heaving  the  log,  I  found  that  the 
chip,  in  drawing  in  the  line,  was,  when  on  the  top  of  the  next  wave 
astern,  distant  by  line  three  hundred  and  eighty  feet,  equal  to  one- 
sixteenth  of  a  mile,  and  the  schooner  being  on  the  next  wave,  wa. 
twice  the  distance,  or  one-eighth  of  a  mile.  The  time  occupied  for  a 
wave   to  pass  from  the  schooner  to  the  brig  was  thirteen   seconds, 


SOUTHERN    CRUISE. 

loo 

taking  the  mean  ofmany  trials,  from  Which  none  varied  more  than  a 

rrtl  ""''  ''''^  ^"'^  ^'^"^  ^^^"^>--  -d  a  half  miles  inan 
hour  for  their  apparent  progressive  motion.  In  order  to  get  their 
he,ght,  I  took  the  opportunity  when  the  schooner  was  in  the  tfo Ih  o 

where  It"'  z '"'  r  ^^' ''/  "^^^p^^^^  •"  ''^  h--"'  ^^  ^^-- 

Where  ,t  cut  the  mast:  the  wood-cut  will  illustrate  it. 


This  gave  me  thirty-two  feet.  The  waves  ran  higher  and  more 
regular  on  this  occasion  than  I  have  seen  them  at  any  other  time 
durmg  the  cruise. 

We  had  many  albatrosses  hovering  about,  and  at  times  reslincr  as  ii 
were  immovable  in  the  storm,  some  gray  petrels,  and  Cape  pi,e°on;  in 
Zeru'  ■  ^'^.T''''''  '"°"'"°"  ^^^^'^'  '-'"d  'he  tempeLt  re  of  the 
darLss.""'  '"  ''°'  '  '""^'  '^  P"'^^"'  ''  h---'«  d-'i"^'  the 

The  28th  came  in  more  moderate.     As  soon  as  it  was  liHit  we 
agam  made  sad  to  the  south.     Towards  noon  the  wind  hauled  to    h 
nor  h,va.-d  and  brought  rain.     The  temperature  of  the  water  was  3  " 
Thewmd  now  agam  hauled  to  the  southward  and  blew  fresh      -Vt' 
nocn:  we  had  reached  the  latitude  of  61°  20'  S.,  longitude  00^  49'  W 
We  found  ourselves  obliged  to  lay-to  this  night  also,°it  being  too  darK" 

At  daylight  on  the  1st  of  March  we  had  snow  in  flurries,  and  the 
r     JT   r      r''  '"'''"     They  excited  much  curiosity,  and  a^ 
pea  ed  to  have  been  a  good  deal  worn,  as  though  the  sea  hud  bee^, 
wnshmg  o..r  them  for  so.ne  ,in.e.     They  were  o^f  small  size  i^  com 
p.u  «on  with  those  we  afterwards  saw,  but  being  unused  to  the  silt 
we    ,^g  t  them   magnrficent.     At  noon  we  n,a^  land,  which;^  d 
'<>  1^0  Ridley's  Island.     It  was  high,  broken,  and  rugged,  with    he   o. 
eovered  with  snow.     The  roelcs  had  a  basaltic  appet-ance  and  manv 
wore  detached  fron>  the  main  body  of  the  island  lith  nu       -ous    '  j 
inacles,   very  much  worn  by  the  sea.     The  surf  was   too  "a  1 
.  ttemp    a  landing  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  specimens   ^  AsJ 
;  -cd  m  with  the  land,  we  lowered  a  boat  and  tSed^he  cm^  nt  tii^h 
was  found  setting  to  the  north-northwest,  two  fathoms  per  hotll- 

soml  h  "  "\r    f  ^'rj'"'  ''"'■^'''^"^''  '"  ^'S''^'  ^^^M'c  Melville  bearin. 
s^^Uh-byeast  (true).     We  now  had  light  winds  from  the  south-south^ 


136 


SOUTHERN   CRUISE. 


The  north  foreland  of  King  George's  Island  was  in  sight,  and  found 
to  be  well  placed  on  the  charts.  The  appearance  of  all  this  land  is 
vulcanic ;  it  is  from  eight  hundred  to  one  thousand  feet  high  The 
upper  part  is  covered  and  the  valleys  filled  with  snow  of  great  depth 
Before  night  we  had  several  other  islands  in  sight,  with  many  bergs 
and  much  drift-ice.  ° 

On  the  2d,  at  daylight,  we  made  O'Brien's  and  Aspland's  Islands,  to 
the  eastward,  with  many  ice-islands,  some  of  a  tabular  form,  and  from 
half  a  mile  to  a  mile  in  length.     The  temperature  of  the  water  was 
34      Through  the  fog  and  mist,  we  got  a  sight  of  Bridgeman's  Island, 
and  stood  for  it,  with  the  intention  of  landing  on  it.     The  fog  cleared 
off  as  we  approached  it,  and  we  could  perceive  distinctly  the  smoke 
issuing  from  its  sides.     We  made  it  in  latitude  62°  06'  S.,  and  longi- 
tude  57°  10'  W.     I  determined  to  land,  although  the  fog  was  hovering 
m  the  horizon  around  us,  and  ordered  a  boat  to  be  prepared.     While 
m  the  act  of  getting  ready,  in  less  than  ten  minutes,  we  were  enveloped 
m  a  fog  so  dense,  that  we  could  not  see  three  lengths  of  the  bri<^.    We 
were  now  a  short  distance  from  and  under  the  lee  of  the  island,  and 
perceived  a  strong  sulphureous  smell.     We  waited  for  some  time,  in 
hopes  of  its  clearing,  but  wo  were  disappointed,  and  I  therefore  deemed 
it  advisable  to  proceed  under  short  sail,  feehng  our  way  to  the  south- 
ward, with  the  expectation,  every  moment,  of  encountering  icebergs. 

1  his  island  IS  about  six  hundred  feet  high,  and  of  the  shape  of  a 
flattened  dome.  The  sea  was  quite  smooth,  but  the  long  swell  wa. 
heard  dashing  against  it  and  the  icebergs  as  we  passed  them 

T  ^A   ^^%u^  ^^  ^"'"'^  '"'"'''y  ''*'   ''^y'-ght,   and  stood  for   Palmer's 
Land.      The  birds    now  had   very  much   increased,   Cape   pigeons, 
with  the  gray  and  black  petrel,  and  occasionally  penguins,  swimminrr 
about  us  in  all  directions,  uttering  their  discordant  screams :   thev 
seemed  astonished  at  encountering  so  unusual  an  object  as  a  vessel  in 
these  frozen  seas.     At  6"  30™  we  made  land,  which  I  took  to  be  Mount 
Hope,  the  eastern  point  of  Palmer's  Land.     By  8  a.  m.  we  had  pene- 
trated among  the  numerous  icebergs,  until  we  found  it  impossible  to 
go  farther.     I  have  rarely  seen  a  finer  sight.     The  sea  was  literally 
studded  with  these  beautiful  masses,  some  of  pure  white,  others  shovv- 
ing  all  the  shades  of  the  opal,  others  emerald  green,  and  occasionally 
here  and  there  some  of  a  deep  black,  forming  a  strong  contrast  to  the 
pure  white.     Near  to  us,  we  discovered  three  small  islets,  and  .rave 
them  the  name  of  the  Adventure  Islets;  while  beyond,  and  above  all, 
rose  two  high  mountains,  one  of  which  was  Mount  Hope.     I  place  (he' 
eastern  extremity  of  Palmer's  Land,  or  Mount  Hope,  in  longitude  .57° 
55'  W.,  latitude  63°  25'  S. 


SOUTHERN    CRUISE. 


137 


We  found  the  coast  to  trend  off  to  the  southeast,  and  I  judged  we 
could  see  ,t  trending  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  miles.  We  had  now 
ascertamed  beyond  a  doubt,  that  there  was  no  open  space  next  to  the 
hnd.  as  I  had  been  led  to  believe  would  be  found,  o  late  in  the  season. 
The  whole  area  was  studded  with  icebergs,  which  it  now  became 
necessary  to  get  clear  of,  if  possible,  before  night  sel  in. 

It  was  a  day  of  great  excitement  to  all,  for  we  had  ice  of  all  kind<. 
and  descriptions  to  encounter,  from  the  iceberg  of  huge  quadrangular 
shape,  with  Its  stratified  appearance,  to  the   sunken  and  deceptive 
mass,  that  it  was  difficult  to  perceive  before  it  was  under  the  bow 
Uur  situation  was  critical,  but  the  weather  favoured  us  fov  a  few  hours" 
On  clearing  these  dangers,  we  kept  off  to  the  southward  and  west- 
ward, under  all  sail,  and  at  8  p.  m.  we  counted  eighty  large  ice-islands 
m  sight.     Afterwards  it  became  so  thick  with  mist  and  fog,  as  to 
render  ,t  necessary  to  lay-to  till  daylight,  before  which  time  we  had  a 
heavy^snow-storm.     The  temperature  of  the  water  had  fallen  to  29°  • 
air  28°.     At  one  hundred  fathoms  depth  we  found  the  former  29°     A 
strong  gale  now  set   in   from  the   southward   and   westward.     The 
bngs  deck  was  covered  with  ice  and  snow,  and  the  weather  became 
excessively  damp  and  cold.     The  men  were  suffering,  not  only  from 
want  of  sufficient  room  to  accommodate  the  numbers  in  the  Vessel 
but  from  the  inadequacy  of  the  clothing  with  which  they  had  been 
supplied.     Although  purchased  by  the  government  at  great  expense  it 
was  found  to  be  entirely  unworthy  the  service,  and  inferior  in  ever^ 
way  to  the  samples  exhibited.     This  was  the  case  with  all  the  article^ 
of  this  description  that  were  provided  for  the  Expedition.     Not  havin<r 
been  able  to  satisfy  myself  to  whom  the  blame  is  to  be  attributed"" 
contractors  or  inspectors,  I  hesitate  to  give   their  names  publicity" 
I  he  deception  is  in  my  opinion  to  be  attributed  to  both. 

On  the  5th  of  March  the  gale  had  increased.    The  tender  Sea-Gull 
being  in  close  company,  both  vessels  were  in  imminent  danger     At 
3  A.  M.  we  narrowly  escaped  several  icebergs.     At  4  a.  m.,  it'' blew  a 
very  heavy  gale  from  the  southwest;  the  temperature  of  the  air  fell 
to  27°,  and  that  of  the  water  was  29°:  the  ice  formed  rapidly  on  the 
deck,  and  covered  the  rigging,  so  much  as  to  render  it  difficult  to 
work  either  the  brig  or  schooner;  dangers  beset  us  in  every  direction 
and  It  required  all  the  watchfulness  we  were  possessed  of  to  avoid  them" 
From  the  state  of  the  weather,  the  lateness  of  the  season,  and  the 
difficulty  of  seeing  around  us,  not  only  during  the  several  hours  of  tho 
night,  but  even  in  the  daytime,  the  constant  fogs  and  mist  in  which 
we  had  been  for  several  hours  every  day  enveloped,  rendered  our 
exertions  abortive,  and  precluded  the  possibiHty  of  doin^r  any  thine 

VOL.  I.  Mi  18  D         /  S 


138 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


more  than  to  attend  to  the  sailing  of  the  vessels.  Those  reasons 
determined  me  to  give  up  the  endeavour  to  proceed  farther  south 
teeling  convinced  that  the  season  for  such  explorations  had  gone  by' 
I  therefore  ordered  the  Sea-Gull  to  return  to  Orange  Harbour,  well 
knowmg  that  her  situation  was  much  worse  than  our  own;  directing 
her  to  touch  at  Deception  Island  on  the  way,  while  we  proceeded  to 
the  northward  to  examine  some  of  the  other  islands. 


'>* 


■*'*^*P« 


When  we  bore  away,  I  had  the  intention  of  passing  towards  i/io 
assigned  situation  of  the  Aurora  Isles,  but  I  found  the  crew  so  mucli 
enfeebled  by  their  constant  exposure,  whilst  some  of  them  were 
affected  with  incipient  scurvy,  that  I  concluded  it  was  better  to 
return  to  Orange  Harbour  as  soon  as  possible.  We  encountered  o-reat 
numbers  of  ice-islands,  of  large  size;  but  I  shall  defer  speakin^  of 
iheir  formation,  &c.,  until  I  relate  my  second  trip  to  the  Antarctic 
Circle,  the  following  year,  and  shall  only  remark-  here,  that  they  were 
similar  in  formation  and  appearance  to  those  then  seen. 

We  continued  under  easy  sail,  enveloped  in  fogs,  and  fallinc^  in 
repeatedly  with  icebergs  close  aboard,  from  which  at  fimes  we  escaped 
with  difficulfv. 


SOUTHERN   CRUISE.  ^gg 

On  the  6th  March  the  wind  shifted  to  the  northward,  with  snow. 

thrvLT  '  ^^"^"'"''  ^^"^^  P'^^''"''  ''"'^  '^^^^^''  '^^'^  "^""'^ 
The  7th  commenced  with  rain  and  snow.  The  wind  was  hght  and 
from  the  westward;  it  gradually  hauled  to  the  southwestward  and 
blew  fresh  Wh.le  making  all  way  to  ihe  northward,  the  fog  lifted, 
and  high  land  was  reported  within  a  short  distance  of  us.  A  few 
moments  more,  and  we  should  have  been  wrecked.  This  proved  to  be 
Elephant  Island.  We  found  from  its  position  that  we  had  been  set 
upwards  of  fifty  mdes  to  the  eastward,  in  the  last  four  days,  bv  the 
current.  We  passed  to  leeward  of  it.  The  sea  was  too  high  to 
attempt  a  landmg.  In  the  afternoon  it  cleared,  and  from  our  obser. 
vations  we  found  Cape  Belsham,  its  eastern  point,  well  placed.  We 
passed  between  it  and  Cornwallis  Island.  The  Seal  Rocks  were  also 
seen  and  observed  upon. 

Elephant  Island  is  high  and  of  volcanic  appearance;  its  valleys 
were  filled  with  ice  and  snow.  We  tried  the  deep-sea  temperatu^. 
At  the  surface  it  was  found  to  be  36°,  whilst  at  three  hundred  fathoms 

it     W3.S     33    m 

We  now  stood  to  the  northward,  and  until  the  14th  had  continued 
bad  weather,  accompanied  with  heavy  seas.  On  this  dav  we  made 
the  land. 

On  the  16th  we  were  off  the  Straits  of  Le  Maire,  where  I  agaii. 
tried  the  deep-sea  temperature,  with  a  wire  sounding-ti«e,  which  parted 
at  three  hundred  and  forty  fathoms,  and  we  lost  the  apparatus  I  then 
made  a  second  experiment,  with  a  line  of  rope  four  hundred  fathoms 
m  length.  The  temperature  of  the  surface  was  44°,  of  the  water 
below,  37°.  This  was  about  sixty  miles  to  the  eastward  of  the  place 
where  I  had  sounded  before,  on  the  15th  February,  when  passing 
around  Cape  Horn  in  the  Vincennes. 

March  17th,  we  had  light  winds  from  the  eastward,  and  a  smooth 
sea,  with  delightful  weather.  There  was,  however,  a  heavy  bank  of 
cumuh  to  the  southwestward,  and  after  a  few  hours'  calm,  the  wind 
came  from  that  quarter,  and  began  to  blow  fresh,  accompanied  with 
licavy  squalls.  We  did  not  succeed  that  night  in  reaching  New 
Island,  where  it  was  my  intention  to  have  anchored  and  rode°out  the 
gale.  We  in  consequence  found  ourselves  the  next  morning  thirlv 
iMdos  to  the  eastward  of  our  position  on  the  previous  evenin-^Jiavin.' 
drittcd  at  the  rate  of  three  miles  an  hour.  From  appearances,  1 
mterredthat  the  gale  had  set  in  for  several  days;  I  therefore  deter- 
mined to  make  for  Good  Success  Bay,  and  await  the  breakincr  up  oi 


140 


SOUTHERN    O  R  t  I  8  K. 


the  storm,  being  satisfied  we  could  make  little  progress  to  the  west- 
ward during  its  continuance. 

We  anchored  in  tlie  bay  early  in  the  afternoon,  when  we  took  our 
boats  and  went  on  shore  for  a  few  hours.  There  was  but  little  surf 
when  we  landed,  but  it  rapidly  increased,  and  one  of  the  boats  in 
attempting  to  pass  through  it  filled,  and  after  several  ineffectual 
attempts,  did  not  succeed  in  getting  oil".  A  boat  was  sent  to  assist,  but 
returned  with  a  report  that  no  relief  could  be  rendered  them,  and  that 
they  had  determined  to  remain  until  morning. 

In  the  morning  the  surf  had  very  much  increased.  The  sea  setting 
in  the  bay,  rendered  our  situation  uncomfortable,  and  somewha°t 
dangerous,  as  we  were  exposed  to  the  force  of  it  and  the  wind,  which 
had  hauled  to  the  southeast. 

At  1  p.  M.,  being  desirous  of  sending  provisions  to  the  party  on  shore. 
Lieutenant  Hartstein  was  ordered  to  take  charge  of  two  boats,  to 
communicate  with  them,  and  give  them  supplies. 

My  intention  was  to  ellect  this  by  having  a  line  floated  on  shore  by 
which  to  haul  the  seal-boat  or  yawl,  having  provisions  lashed  in  her, 
through  the  surf  by  the  party  on  shore.     Instructions  to  this  effect 
were  given  to  Lieutenant  Hartstein,  who  was  enjoined  not  to  risk  the 
lives  of  the  men.     We  watched  them  attentively  with  our  glasses. 
Shortly  after  they  had  anchored  their  boats   outside  the  surf,  we 
perceived  Lieutenant  Hartstein  and  three  men  strapping  on  their  life- 
preservers,  and  preparing  themselves  for  a  landing  in  the  boat.     I  felt 
under  great   apprehensions   of    accident.      Placing,   however,  great 
confidence  in  that  officer's  judgment,  I  was  assured  he  would  not  risk 
the  lives  of  the  men,  and  his  own,  on  such  an  occasion.     It  was  with 
great  anxiety  we  watched  their  proceedings ;  in  a  few  moments  after- 
wards they  were  separated  from  the  other  boat,  still  apparently  making 
preparations.     In  an  instant  they  were  borne  on  the  crest  of  the  rollers, 
and  immediately  disappeared.     Some  few  minutes  after,  the  boat  was 
seen  bottom  up  among  the  rollers.     Presently,  the  other  boat's  crew 
were  seen  pulling  in  haste  towards  a  person;  one  was  picked  up.  then 
another.     We  looked  intently  for  the  rest,  but  no  signs  of  them  were 
seen.     We  then  endeavoured  to  count  the  party  on  shore,  and  we 
thought  it  had  increased,  but  the  constant  motion  of  the  vessel  ren- 
dered it  impossible  to  keep  our  glasses  fixed  on  them  for  a  sufficient 
'ength  of  time  to  ascertain  their  number.     We  now  saw  the  boat 
returning;  it  soon  reached  the  vessel,  and  Lieutenant  Hartstein  and 
Samuel  Stretch  proved  to  be  the  two  that  had  been  saved.     Both  were 
much  exhausted.     The  persons   in  the  boat,  while  vet  at  a  distance 


SOUTHERN   CRUISE. 


141 


fhTw^n-^"^'  V^l'"""  ''"'■  ^"'^^'y'S^^^  »«  the  joyful  intelligence 
that  Williams  and  Moore  had  reached  the  shore  in  safety. 

Lieutenant  Hartstein,  on  recovering  from  his  exhaustion,  informed 
me.  that  on  arriving  at  the  surf  and  anchoring  the  boat,  he  found  it 

He  then  concluded  that  m  the  surf-boat,  with  oars,  and  a  line  from  the 
boat  outs.de    they  might  land  in  safety.     Samuel  Stretch,  John  Wi|. 
hams,  and  Samuel   Moore,  volunteered  to  accompany  him.     They 
strapped  on  their  life-preservers,  with  which  they  were  provided,  and 
vvere  preparing  themselves  for  the  trial,  when  a  wave  curling  without 
hem,  carried  them  forward  with  rapidity;  in  an  instant  the  boat  was 
thrown  end  over,  and  they  found  themselves  struggling  for  life  in  a 
furious  surf.     Had  it  not  been  for  the  life-preservers,  they  must  all 
have  been  drowned.     The  under-tow  assisted  in  bringing  Stretch  and 
himself  out,  (neither  of  whom  could  swim.)  together  with  the  boat. 
Williams  and  Moore  swam  to  the  beach. 
The  night  proved  dark  and  stormy,  and  the  squalls  were  furious. 
The  morning  of  the  21st  dawned  with  no  better  prospect.     All  our 
endeavours  to  get  a  supply  of  provisions  to  the  party  on  shore  by  kites, 
&c..  failed,  and  it  was  now  deemed  advisable  for  the  safety  of  the 
Dng,  to  slip  our  cables  and  go  to  sea  on  the  making  of  the  flood, 
which  sets  out  of  the  bay.    Previous  to  this  time,  we  tere  employed 
in  supplying  the  yawl  with  provisions,  intending  to  leave  her  as  a 
buoy  to  our  cable  and  anchor;  and,  to  prevent  her  from  sinking,  our 
India-rubber  life-spars  were  lashed  in  her. 

When  the  time  arrived,  there  appeared  no  alteration  for  the  better. 
We  slipped  our  cable,  and  stood  out  of  the  bay  under  our  storm-sails. 
A  very  heavy  sea  was  encountered  in  the  straits,  and  particularly  in 
he  race  that  is  formed  on  the  Staten  Land  side;  but  we  passed 
through  wuhout  difficulty  or  accident.  When  we  got  under  the  lee  of 
J!,»,'        ;r  ""''"''^  ''^'''•'  "'"^"^^  ^  ^^'f"'  ^"d  moderate 

had  ju!ueff      ''''"*'''"^  "^^^  ^'''''^  '"'''''^'  ^'°'"  '^^  ^•°'""t  g^le  we 
On  the  22d  and  23d  we  had  light  winds,  and  were  drifted  to  the 

tir  J?  'w'  u  r^  """'''  «^'^«^'«"^"y  P«««ing  through  rips  and 
nde  eddies  We  had  generally  between  fifty  and  sixty  fathoms  water, 
with  soundings  ofsand,  shells,  and  coral. 

On  the  24th,  it  being  calm,  we  anchored  in  forty-four  fathoms,  off- 
tape  St  Diego,  to  await  the  tide,  and  found  the  current  running  at 
the  greatest  strength  two  and  a  half  miles  per  hour 

2.r^  ^^  T  T'"  ''^''^  ^^^'^  ^""'^"^^  ^^y  ""til  the  night  of  the 
<55th,  after  five  days'  absence,  when  we  found  the  party  had  got  the 


142 


SOUTH  ER^    (   HIJ  18E. 


|.rovi«i.,ns,  and  were  ull  well.  At  clayli^.l.t  ,.,.  ti.e  2(5ll,  ll.oy  ca.no  on 
board.  On  the  y7ll.  we  recovered  our  anchor,  and  on  the  88th  set 
Hud  for  Orange  Harbour. 

On  the  evening  of  the  mh,  having  entered  Nassau  Bay,  (it  being 
(|u.to  <iark.)  as  we  were  standing  as  we  supposed  over  for  Oranwe 
Ifarbour,  we  heard  the  surf,  and  sudde.dy  discovered  that  we  were 
Hose  in  and  among  the  kelp;  we  innnediately  ancliored,  in  six 
lathotns. 

At  dayUght  we  foun.l  ourselves  in  a  snug  cove  of  Wollaston's 
Island,  and  (hscovore.l  that  it  was  the  false  pack-sad.lle  to  the  south- 
ward of  the  island  which  had  served  to  mislead  us. 

Wo  were  here  visited  by  a  canoe  with  six  natives,  two  old  women 
two  young  men,  and  two  children.     The  two  women  were  paddling* 
and  the  fire  was  burning  in  the  usual  place.     They  approached  thj 
vessel,  smgmg  their  rude  song,  "Hey  meh  leh,"  and  continued  it  until 
they  came  alongside.     The  expression  of  the  younger  ones  was  ex- 
tren.ely  prepossessing,  evincing  much  intelligence  and  good  humour 
llieyate  ham  and  bread  voraciously,  distending  their  large  mouths 
and  showmg  a  strong  and  beautiful  set  .>f  teeth.     A  few  strips  of  red 
flannel  distributed  among  them  produced  great  pleasure;  they  tied  it 
around  their  hea.ls  as  a  sort  of  turban.     Knowing  they  were  fond  of 
music,  I  had  the  fife  played,  the  only  instrument  we  could   muster 
Ihey  seemed  much  struck   with  the   sou  d.     The  tunc  of  Yankee 
Doodle  they  did  not  understand  ;  but  when  "  Bonnets  of  Blue"  was 
pinycd,  they  were  all  in  motion  keeping  time  to  it.     The  vessel  at  this 
time  was  under  way,  and  no  presents  could  persuade  them  to  continue 
any  longer  with  us.     There  was  some  disposition  in  the  younger  ones 
but  the  adults  refused  to  be  taken  where  the  fickleness  of  their  climate' 
might  subject  them  to  bo  blown  off.     We  found  theni  also  extremely 
nn.tat.ve,   repeating  over  our  words  and   mimicking  our   motions. 
1  Iiey  were  all  quite  naked. 

I  have  seldom  seen  so  happy  a  group.  They  were  extremely  livelv 
and  cheerful,  and  any  thing  but  miserable,  if  we  could  have  avoided 
contrasting  their  condition  with  our  own. 

The  colour  of  the  young  men  was  a  pale,  and  of  the  old  a  dark 
copper  colour.  Their  heads  were  covered  with  ashes,  but  their  ex- 
tenor  left  a  pleasing  impression.  Contentment  was  pictured  in  theii 
countenances  and  actions,  and  produced  a  moral  eilect  that  will  lone 
be  remembered.  '^ 

On  the  30th  we  reached  Orange  Harbour.  While  yet  off  the  port 
we  made  signal  for  the  boats,  and  were  soon  joined  by  them,  and 
learned  with  much  pleasure  that  they  were  all  well.    The  Sea-GuU  had 


SOUTHERN    CRUISE. 


148 


returned  safely.  Lieutenant  Craven  having  enlertainel  some  fears  of 
tlio  safety  of  the  launch,  which  had  been  absent  on  a  surveyin-^  excur- 
sion, had  despatched  that  vessel  in  pursuit  of  her. 

The  Sea-Gull  returned  to  Orange  Harbour  from  the  southern  cruise 
on  the  22d  of  March,  having,  after  parting  company,  visited,  as 
directed.  Deception  Island.  On  the  morning  after  she  left  us  (.5th 
March,)  Lieutenant  Johnson  gives  the  following  account  of  the  situation 
of  the  bea-GuU:  "  The  water  was  freezing  about  the  decks,  icicles, 
forming  with  the  direction  of  the  wind,  enveloping  every  thing,  shipping 
seas  every  five  minutes,  jib  still  hanging  overboard,  it  was  next  to 
impossibility  for  us  to  make  sail,  and  we  should  even  have  found  diffi- 
culty  in  waring  ship  to  avoid  danger;  our  forcsheets  were  of  the  size 
of  a  sloop  of  war's  cable,  from  being  so  covered  with  ice;  there  was 
scarce  a  sheave  that  would  traverse."  After  encountering  thick  and 
foggy  weather,  they  reached  Deception  Island  on  the  10th  of  March 
and  anchored  in  Pendulum  Cove. 

The  weather  was  extremely  unfavourable  during  his  stay  of  a  week, 
being  very  boisterous.     The  plan  of  this  bay  by  Lieutenant  Kendall, 
of  the  Chanticleer,  with  which  I  furnished  Lieutenant  Johnson,  was 
iound  accurate.     On  their  landing,  the  bare  ground  that  was  seen,  was 
a  loose  black  earth.     The  beds  of  the  ravines  and  the  beaches  were  of 
a  black  and  reddish  gravel,  much  resembling  pumice-stone  in  appear- 
ance.    Penguins  were  seen  in  countless  numbers,  or,  as  he  expresses 
It,  "  covered  some  hundreds  of  acres  on  the  hill-side."    It  was  then  the 
moulting  season,  and  they  were  seen  busily  occupied  in  pickincr  off- 
each  other's  feathers.    It  was  an  amusing  sight  to  see  them  associated 
m  pairs,  thus  employed,  and  the  eagerness  with  which  the  sailors 
attacked  them  with  the  oars  and  boat-hooks.     They  were  not  inclined 
to  submit  quietly   to   this   intrusion,   and  in  some  instances   readily 
gave  battle.     Their  manner  in  doing  it  was  to  seize  the  aggressor 
with  their  bill,   and   beat  him  with   their  flippers.    Their   bearing 
was  quite  courageous,  and  their   retreat  dignified,  as   far  as   their 
ridiculous   waddle   would  permit.      They  were  showy-looking  birds, 
with  yellow  topknots,  and   are  known   as   the   Aptenadytes  chrvs- 
ocoma. 

As  an  accompaniment  to  these  penguins,  a  small  white  pigeon, 
(Chironis  or  sheath-bill,)  was  found  here,  quite  tame.  These  were 
easily  taken  in  numbers.  They  are  not  web-footed,  have  red  legs  and 
bills,  with  perfectly  white  though  not  fine  plumage.  They  seem°to  live 
entirely  on  the  dung  of  the  penguin,  and  their  flesh  is  black,  coarse, 
and  unpalatable.  Sailing  up  the  bay,  they  descried  a  sea-leopard  (the 
Phoca  leopardina  Jam),  which  Lieutenant  Johnson  succeeded  in  taking ; 


I 


144 


8  O  U  T  II  K  R  N    CRUISE. 


but  by  nn  iinaccounfablo  nuHtako,  fho  «!uill,  ,Vr.,  vvcro  thrown  over, 
board.     Its  dimunsionH  were  aUo  mriittod  to  bo  taken. 

Knowii.K  that  Captain  Foster,  in  the  Chanti.tloer,  had  loft  here  a 
wlf-re«,8toring  thorn.o.nolor,  in  1820,  I  .lirootod  Lieutenant  Johnson 
to  look  for  If,  and  note  its  standing,  lu.modiately  on  securing  the 
tender  iio  proceeded  to  search  for  it,  but  notwitf.standing  the  particular 
directions,  he  did  not  find  it.  Since  my  return  home,  I  f.ave  received 
a  letter  from  William  H.  Smiley,  master  of  a  sealing  vessel  that 
touched  there  in  February,  1842,  stating  that  he  had  found  the  ther- 
mometer, and  carefully  noted  its  nunimum  tein|)orature,  which  was 
5°  below  zero. 

Lieutenant  .Fohnson,  in  company  with  Assistant-Surgeon  Whittle 
visited  an  old  .-rater,  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  where  a  gentle  ascent  of 
about  four  hundred  feet,  brought  them  to  the  edge  of  an  abrupt  bank, 
some  twenty  feet  high,  surrounding  the  crater  on  the  bay  side.     The 
crater  was  about  fifteen  hundred  feet  in  diameter,  from  east  to  west 
bounded  on  the  west  or  farther  side  by  lofty  hills,  with  many  ravines! 
which  had  apparently  been  much  washed  by  heavy  rains.    This  led  to 
the  belief  that  the  wafer  found  within  the  crater  would  be  fresh  but  its 
taste,  and  the  incrustation  of  salt  found  on  its  borders,  showed  that  it 
was  not  so.     Near  the  east  end  of  the  crater,  the  water  boils  in  many 
places,  sometimes  bubbling  out  of  the  side  of  a  bank,  at  otlers  near  the 
water's  edge,  with  a  hissing  noise.    The  surface  water  was  found  to 
be  on  a  level  with  the  waters  of  the  bay,  and  to  be  milk-warm.    A  few 
mches  below,  it  was  perceptibly  colder.    No  thennomotric  observa- 
tions  were  obtained.     The  ground  near  the  Boiling  Springs  was  quite 
hot.     In  the  vicmity  were  lying  quantities  of  cellular  and  scoriaceous 
ava.     The  only  sign  of  vegetation  was  a  lichen,  growing  in  small 
tufts,  around  the  mouth  of  several  small  craters,  of  three  or  four  feel 
in  diameter     From   those   a  heated   vapour  is    constantly  issuing, 
accompanied  by  much  noise.     Before  they  returned  to  the  tender,  thev 
were  overtaken  by  a  violent  snow-storm  from  the  northeast,  and  with 
difficulty  reached  the  cove  without  the  boat,  having  been  compelled  to 
leave  it  at  the  opposite  side  of  the  bay,  for  the  force  of  the  wind  was 
such  as  to  render  all  their  efforts  to  pull  against  it  useless.     This 
weather  continued  with  much  snow  for  three  days,  when  it  ceased 
snowing,  but  still  blew  heavy.     It  was  the  intention  of  Lieutenant 
Johnson  to  carryover  the  yawl,  for  the  purpose  of  sounding  in  the 
crater,  to  ascertain  its  depth,  and  get  its  temperature,  which  it  is  to  be 
regretted  was  not  done.     On  the  17th  of  March  they  sailed  from 
Deception  Island,  having  left  a  bottle  enclosing  reports,  tied  to  a  flag- 
staff.   This  was  afterwards  found  by  Captain  Smiley,  who  mentions  in 


SOUTH  RRN   CRUISE, 


145 


his  lottor  t< 


ii.c,  Umt  m  Ful.rimry,  1812,  the  whole  south  sido  of 
Dcccptmn  Island  appou.o.l  .ts  if  on  f.rc.  lie  counted  thirteen 
volcanoes  m  action.  Ho  is  of  o,,i„i.,„  that  the  island  is  undor«oin« 
many  changes.  Ho  likewise  roi.nrts  (hat  Pahnor's  Lan.l  consists  of 
u  number  of  islands,  I.etween  which  he  has  entered,  a,  I  that  the  t.as- 
sages  are  deep,  narrow,  and  dangerous. 

The  Sea-Gull,  after  a  storn.y  passage,  reached  Orange  Ilarhour  on 

I.C  82d.  with  all  hands  much  exhausted.     She   was   despatcheri  by 

Lieutenant  Craven  the  next  day.  as  before  stated,  in  search  of  the 

aun,d.,   which  had  been  absent  eleven  days.)  on  the  route  she  had 

been  ordered  to  pursue. 

In  passing  over  from  Hermit  Islan.l  to  that  of  Evout's,  durin-  a 
brisk  gale  and  heavy  sea,  the  launch,  in  towing,  filled,  broke  adrift, 
aru  was  lost  The  men  had  all  been  previously  ordered  out  of  her 
and  mos  of  the  articles  removcl.  The  Sea-Gull  again  reached 
Orange  Harbour  on  tlie  5th. 

On  her  arrival,  finding  the  laun.-h    had  not  completed  the  duties 
pointed  out,  I  again  despatched  the  Sea-Gull  tender,  to  finish  them, 
part.cu  arly  to  examine  and   survey  a  harbour  on  the   east   side  of 
VVolastons  Is  and.     She  accordingly  sailed  the  next  day,  and  sue 
ceeded  in  performing  the  required  duty.having  surveyed  a  very  safe 
....   -convenient  harbour  o,.  the  east  side,  and  ascertained  that  the' so- 
oalledWollaston  Island  forme,!  two  islands.     Leavhig  to  the  eastern- 
most  the  name  of  Wollaston,  I  have  given  to  the  .vestern  the  name  of 
Rally,  after  Francs  Daily,  Esq..  the  well-known  Vice-President  of  the 
lloyal  Society,  as  a  small  memento  of  the  obligation  the  Expedition 
and  myself  are  under  to  him,  for  the  great  interest  he  took  in  the 
e(iu.pments,  and  the  kindness  shown  me  while  in  London  when  nro- 
airing   the   instruments.     The  harbour  that  lies   between   these  two 
islands  was  nariied  after  the  Sea-Gull.     A  chart  of  it  will  be  found  in 
he  Ilydi-ograplucal  Atlas.     Lieutena.it  Johnson  was  again  transferre<l 
to  the  Vincennes.     On  the   12th.  the   Flying-Fish  a,Tived,  brin^in^ 
news  of  the  Peacock  and  their  operations,  which  will  be  detailed  in 
the  lollowing  chapter. 


VOL.  I. 


DEF 

DEP 

PEA 

-Fl 

fiin 

PETi 

OBSl 

OF  1 

WEA 

HARl 

SHIP 

COMB 

ROCli 

AWF 

OF!^I( 

OFF 

ARRr 

WIND 

-OK/ 

GULL 

CALE- 

-ALB, 

AT  Vi 

GULL 


CHA?TEE   VIII. 


CONTENTS. 

DEPAETURE  or   PEACOCK   AND  PLVmcriSH-GALE-RETURN  TO  ANCHOH-PINAL 
DEPAKTaRE-LIEOO    UAMfERES -GALE -8EPARATI0I.  -  DEFECTIVE    OCTF.TS    OF 
PEACOCK-<.nRREXT-^Ar.E-ACCr„ENT  TO   WILLIAM  STaART-HIS  RESCUE-DEATH 
-FIRST   ICEBERG-DIP  OHSERVATIONS- WEATHER -ICEBERGS  AND  SNOW^a.E- 
HITUATION  OP  PEACOCK-BIRDS-AURORA   AUSTRALIS-DEEP.SEA  SOUNDING-FOO- 
PETRELS-BREAKIXG  ASUNDER  OF  ICLBERGS-DENSE  POG-DANGERS-SNOW-STORM- 
OnSERVATIONS-FLVING-FISH  REIOINS-LIEUTENANT  WALKER'S  REPORT-SITUATION 
OF   VESSELS-COUNCIL   OF    OFFICERS -CAPTAIN   HUDSON    RESOLVES   TO    RETURN- 
WEATHER-AUR0RA-<;ALE-SHIP  on  FIRE-FLVING-FISH  DESPATCHED  FOR  ORANGE 
HARBOUR-^ALE-ACCDENT  TO   ROVAL  HOPE-PHOSPHORESCENCE  OF  SEA-WHALE 
SHIP-ARRIVAL   OF   PEACOCK    AT   VALPARAISO -FIND  THE   RELIEF-LIEUTENANT 
COMMANDANT  LONGS  INSTRUCTIONS-DIFFICULTIES  ENOOUNTERED-OALE-TOWER 
ROCKS-ANCHOR   UNDER  NOIR   ISLAND-DANGEROUS  POSITION-LOSS  OP  ANCHORS- 
AWFUL   NIGHT-PART  CABLES-NARROW  ESCAPE-CONDUCT  OF  COMMANDANT  AND 
OF.ICERS-COUNCIL-DETERMINATION  OF  IT-PROCEED  TO  VALPARAISO -ARRIVAL 
OFF   THE    PORT-COMMANDANT    LOCKE,    „.    B.    M.    SHIP    FLV-RELIEF    ANCHORS- 
ARRIVAL  OF  FLVINCFISH  AT  ORANGE  HARBOUR-PREPARATIONS  FOR  DEPARTURE- 

WINDS-TEMPERATURE-BAROMETRICALRANGE-CLIMATE-ANIMALS-WOLF-BIRDS 
-ORANGE  HARBOUR -VINCENNES  AND  PORPOISE  TAKE  THEIR  DEPARTURE-SEA- 
GULL  AND  FLVING.F.Sn  TO  AWAIT  THE  RELIEF-ANCHOR  IN  SCAPENHAM  BAY- 
GALE-ORANGE  BAY-FINAL  DEPARTURE-VINCENNES  AND  PORPOISE  PART  COMPANY 
-ALBATROSS-DYSENTERY-ISLAND  OF  MOCHA-TRADE-WINDS-VINCENNES'  ARRIVAL 
AT  VALPARAISO-ARRIVAL  OP  PORPOISE  AND  PLYINGPISH- HEAVY  GALE-SEA- 
CULL  LAST  SEEN-WHALE.^. 


(m 


Fl 
thi 
wi 
wl 
w] 
ou 

CO 

m( 
wi 
we 
foi 

SU( 

no 

en 

isli 
I 

no( 
the 
as 
tini 
his 
wo 
wh 
bor 
fix 
I 


CHAPTEE    VIII. 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE  — CONTINUED. 


1839. 

At  10  A.  M.,  on  the  25th  of  February,  the  Peacock,  with  the  tender 
Flying-Fish,  got  und-^r  way,  and  also  received  parting  cheers  from 
the  Vincennes  and  Relief  as  they  passed  out  of  the  harbour.  The 
wind,  as  with  the  Porpoise,  was  light  and  variable  until  the  afternoon, 
when  they  likewise  encountered  the  heavy  squall  from  the  southwest, 
which  with  the  thick  weather  induced  Captain  Hudson  to  regain  the 
outer  anchorage  of  Orange  Harbour,  and  remain  there  during  the 
continuance  of  the  gale.  The  next  morning,  the  weather  proving 
more  favourable,  they  again  got  under  way,  and  stood  down  the  bay, 
with  all  sail  set,  and  a  fine  breeze  from  the  northward.  Although  they 
were  passing  rapidly  through  the  water,  when  off  Point  Lort  they 
found  the  flood  tide  so  strong  as  to  impede  their  progress.  Indeed, 
such  was  its  strength,  that  for  a  portion  of  the  time  they  made  little  or 
no  headway;  and  the  tide  being  contrary  to  the  wind,  produced  a 
cross  and  very  unpleasant  sea.  By  meridian,  they  had  reached  the 
island  of  Diego  Ramieres. 

The  heavy  bank  of  cumuli  that  had  been  perceived  in  the  west,  bv 
noon  begs-  to  develope  itself,  and  by  three  o'clock  they  were  under 
their  storm-sails.  The  barometer,  which  was  at  29-21  in.,  began  to  rise 
as  it  came  on.  This  gale  lasted  twenty-four  hours,  and  during  its  con- 
tinuance the  tender  Flying-Fish  was  lost  sight  of  Captain  Hudson  in 
his  instructions  to  Lieutenant  Walker,  notified  him  that  the  Peacock 
would  wait  twelve  hours  in  or  near  the  situation  where  last  seen  ; 
which  he  now  did ;  but  no  tidings  being  received  of  the  tender,  he 
bore  away  for  their  first  ■  endezvous,  having  taken  the  precaution  to 
fix  four  places  of  meeting. 

During  the  last  gale,  from  her  bad  and  defective  outfits,  no  vessel 

IV9 


(tm 


I 


150 


SOUTHERN    CRUISE. 


<uuld  bo  more  iincomfort.n.blo  (hnri  the  Peacock,  and  althoiicrh  cvcrv 
precaution  was  taken  to  make  the  ports  tight,  yet  from  their  workin^i. 
It  was  found  impossible  to  keep  them  so.  '^ 

After  the  gale,  they  found  they  had  been  set  about  three  miles  per 
hour  to  the  southeast.  Until  the  U  of  March,  they  had  moderate 
weather.  On  the  morning  of  the  4th  of  March,  the  barometer  stood 
at  a8-.3.1  ni.  Shortly  afterwards  it  began  to  rise,  and  a  gale  set  in 
which  blew  heavily  f,,-  several  hours,  when  the  weather  again  mode- 
rated, but  the  sea  continued  >:cry  high,  and  rendered  the  ship^'cxtrcmcly 
wet.     The  wind  varied  from  south-by-wcst  to  west-northwest. 

On  the  7th  they  again  had  stiualls  of  snow  and  rain,  with  stron" 
gales.     On  the  0th,  although  the  weather  had  moderated,  vet  the  sea 
was  very  heavy,  an.l  the   ship  tossed   and   tumbled  about  in  every 
direction.     William  Stewart,  captain  of  the  main-top,  was  this  .lay 
knocked  off  the  yard,  and  in  his  fall  struck  the  main  rigging,  but  he 
canted  and  fell  overboard,  when  he  was  seen  to  lie  (lurtc  insensible. 
feet  up,  supported  by  his  exploring  boots,  which  were  supposed  to 
have  occasioned  his  fall.     A  bowline  was  thrown  over  them,  and  he 
was  dexterously  drawn  on  board  again.      The   ship   had   but    little 
headway,  and  it  would  have  been  impossible   to   lower   a   boat  on 
account  of  the  roughness  of  the  sea  ;  his  rescue  was  therefore  almost 
miraculous.     Every  cure  was  taken  of  him,  but  it  was  soon  found  that 
the  violence  of  the  concussion  had  been  so  great  that  his  lun<Ts  had 
become  gorged  with  blood,  and  little  hopes  were  entertained  "of  his 
recovery.      After  lingering   to   the    11th,  he  died.     He  was  Trcatlv 
regretted  by  both  officers  and  men,  for  he  had  proved  himself  an 
excellent  man,  and  was  well  calculated  for  the  service.     On  the  same 
day  his  body  was  committed  to  the  deep,  with  the  usual  ceremonies. 

_  This  day  they  made  the  first  iceberg.  The  only  indication  in  the 
air  or  water  on  approaching  it,  was  a  fall  of  two  degrees  in  the  tem- 
perature of  the  lormer,  and  ono.  degree  in  the  latter."  Their  position 
was  in  latitude  04°  S.,  and  longitude  80°  W. 

On  the  i;ith  the  weather  proved  fine  and  the  sea  smooth,  affording 
un  opportunity  of  making  dip  observations.     These  gave  ft  75°.     The 
variation  was  33-30°  E.     Their   position  was  in  latitude  G4°  27'  ^ 
longitude  84°  W. 

On  the  14th,  Captain  Hudson  remarked  a  groat  and  striking  change 
in  the  weather  since  they  passed  the  02°  of  south  latitude,  it  havinrr 
become  much  more  settled,  and  free  from  the  sudden  squalls  and  con^ 
stant  gales  they  had  experienced  since  leaving  Cape  Horn.  Several 
birds  were  shot  this  day,  including  an  albatross  and  many  penguins. 
Petrels  and  Cape  pigeons  were  seen.     They  now  began  to  fall  in" with 


SOUTHERN   CRUISE. 


151 


i:t3»i:„a  3™''°"-   ■"'°  '°"'''"™"°  °f '^=  ™-  -1  "■■  W  fallen 

They  encountered,  during   the    17th.  and   part  of  the    18th    fhp 
^TtT  "'  *^«y'^^^d-I-ienced  since  leaving  the  U„i. 

ht    w.^^    to'^^T  'l^''^  ^'^  ^^°^'  ^^  '''  ^'  Fahrenheh, 

to  the  Ciec  •      F  '^  T'  '"'"P^'^^'^'^^  ^^'-^'^d  ^^''^'^  i«e.  even 

the  gun-deck.     Every  spray  thrown  over  her  froze,  and  her  bow. 

and  deck  were  fairly  packed  xvUU  u      Ti  ^  ^^ 

ovory  oAorlion   ,o   take,  but   without   sucee«      AH      ^°f°,  """''' 
however,  caught.    Several  teebergrtere   „  Ihf  ,^1°  T        T"' 

.«,™t:"f If  ^"irT  -^ '"' """-  --"i^:-nX"  Lo?  „s 

were  also  observed  ^eveial  biilhant  meteors 

of  «.e  ai.-  I,a,l  fallen  ,o  2^.  a„d  ofthe  Lt'S-     ""  '""^'"'"'' 

•>  •     These  appearances  continued  until  day  dawned.     The  ni^^huv  s 

oniarkably   fine,   and   many   shooting    stars   were   obse  ved       Thn 

arometer  stood  at  29-77  in.     During  the  afternoon  oft s  day  a  Z 

b^k  was  perceived  in  the  southwestern  quarter,  and    heeler:'; 

0  t  t  ne  afterwards  completely  enveloped  in  a  fog  so  dense  nnd 

i'"^-k,  that  they  could  not  see  twice  the  len-th  of  LZ        Z 

nately  hefore  it  closed  in,  they  were  enabled  C        odt'.-in  Jo"f" 


152 


SOUTHERN   CRUISE. 


On  the  20th,  they  had  moderate  weather,  with  fogs.  They  had  now 
reached  the  longitude  of  90°  W.,  latitude  68°  S.,  and  obtained  a  si-rhi 
of  the  icy  barrier.  The  fog  becoming  dense,  they  were  obhged''to 
heave  the  ship  to;  the  sea  being  smooth,  they  took  the  opportunity  to 
sound  with  the  deep-sea  hne,  with  the  apparatus  for  temperature.  The 
hne  being  of  copper  wire,  they  succeeded  in  getting  out  eight  hundred 
fathoms  of  it;  but  when  they  began  to  reel  it  up,  it  parted,  and  the 
whole  was  lost.  The  noise  of  the  sea  beating  on  the  icebergs  wa. 
frequently  heard  close  ab-r,  .:      nd  scvc.al  loud  sounds  resembling 


creaking  asunder  and  turning  over 


thunder,  which  they  impute 
of  large  icebergs. 

The  dip  was  also  tried,  and  was  made  78° ;  tiie  variation  was  found 
to  be  33°  easterly.  On  the  fog  lifting,  they  found  themselves  in  near 
proximity  to  icebergs  and  field-ice.  Some  few  petrels  were  seen 
about  the  ship,  of  a  diflerent  species  from  any  heretofore  observed  by 
us.     All  trials  to  obtain  one  proved  unsuccessful. 

During  the  whole  of  the  21st  they  could  not  venture  to  run,  in 
consequence  of  the  dense  fog,  which  lasted  all  day,  with  the  exception 
of  tbout  an  hour.  Mr.  Peale  having  shot  one  of  the  petrels,  of  the 
same  kind  as  seen  the  day  before,  a  boat  was  lowered  to  pick  it  up. 
of  which  advantage  was  taken  to  try  the  current.  It  was  found  settin<^ 
one-third  of  a  mile  per  hour  to  the  northwest-by-west.  ° 

The  22d  also  proved  foggy.  At  daylight  the  fog  lifted  for  a  few 
moments,  and  they  discovered  the  icy  barrier  extending  from  north- 
east-by-north  to  southeast-by-east.  At  about  9  a.  m.  the  fog  again 
lifted,  when  they  discovered  icebergs  all  around  them,  rendering  their 
position  extremely  dangerous.  Every  endeavour  was  made  to  effect 
their  escape  as  soon  as  possible.  Besides  petrels,  Cape  pigeons,  &c.. 
a  flock  of  tern  was  seen. 

The  wind  continuing  from  the  north  vard  and  westward  they  wore 
ship  to  the  northward.  In  the  latter  pa  of  the  day,  considering  their 
situation  in  the  vicinity  of  so  many  icebergs  too  dangerous  to  be  held 
under  such  circumstances,  they  therefore  made  sail,  and  ran  off  to  seek 
a  more  open  sea.  Many  whales  were  seen  and  heard  durincr  the  last 
few  days.  ° 

On  the  23d  it  partly  cleared,  and  the  fog  having  been  succeeded  by 
a  snow-storm,  the  wind  hauled  to  the  west,  with  a  heavy  bank  of 
clouds  in  that  quarter.  The  barometer  showed  no  indication  of  a 
gale;  the  weather  turned  out  thick,  and  prevented  them  from  seeing  any 
distance.  They  had  some  severe  squalls,  accompanied  with  snow!  On 
the  24th,  the  wind  hauling  to  the  northward  and  westward,  brought 
snow  and  thick  weather,  with  some  heavy  squalls.     Many  icebergs 


SOUTHERN    CRUISE. 


158 


were  met  with,  which  were  fortunately  avoided.     A  sharp  look-out 
was  kept  for  them,  and  the  ship  put  in  readiness  to  perform  any 
mancEuvre  that  might  be  desirable.     Some  of  the  icebergs  were  two 
hundred  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  and  of  a  pinnacle  shape. 
The  snow  continued  to  fall  fast,  rendering  the  ship  uncomfortably  wet. 
Un  the  25th,  the  fog  continued  until  near  meridian.     Many  birds 
were  seen  about  the  ship,  and  many  fin-back  whales.     They  obtained 
a  meridian  observation,  the  first  for  the  last  six  days,  and  found  them- 
selves in  the  latitude  of  68°  S.,  longitude  97°  58'  W.     Here  in  the 
evening,  to  their  great  joy,  they  fell  in  with  the  tender  Flyin'cr-Fish 
On  her  near  approach,  all  hands  were  turned  up,  and  gave  her  three 
hearty  cheers.     Lieutenant  Walker  came  on  board,  and  reported  to 
Captain  Hudson  as  follows. 

That  he  had  visited  all  the  appointed  rendezvous  in  hopes  of  falling 
m  with  the  Peacock,  but  without  success,  having  encountered  very 
severe  and  boisterous  weather.     On    the    18th  they  left   the  fourth 
rendezvous,  having  passed  the  17th  in  its  vicinity.    They  then  turned 
towards  the  south  for  Cook's  Ne  Plus  Ultra,  and  continued  their  way 
to  the  southward.     The  weather  was  at  times  very  thick,  the   ice 
islands  became  numerous,  and  they  occasionally  passed  a  little  floating 
ice.  On  the  18th  the  ice  became  abundant,  and  floated  in  large  masses 
around  them.     At  4  a.  m.  the  water  was  much  discoloured,  and  some 
ot  the  ice  also  having  the  appearance  of  being  but  lately  detached  from 
the  land.   They  obtained  a  cast  of  the  lead,  but  found  no  bottom  at  one 
hundred  fathoms.   At  eight  o'clock  the  fog  lifted,  and  discovered,  to  the 
amazement  of  all,  a  wall  of  ice  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  high 
extending  east  and  west  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  and  spreading 
out  into  a  vast  and  seemingly  boundless  field  to  the  south.     This  wafl 
was  formed  of  masses  of  all  sizes,  and  various  shapes  and  colours. 
Iheir  latitude  at  this  time  was  about  67°  30'  S.,  lontritude  105°  W 
The  weather  becoming  thick,  they  stood  to  the  northward,  and  soon 
ran  into  blue  water. 

On  the  21st,  at  7  a.  m.,  they  saw  the  ice  extending  in  broken  ran-^es 
from  soufh-by-east  to  northeast,  and  the  sea  extending  round  to  the 
westward.  At  eight  o'clock,  the  water  was  again  much  .::iscoloured, 
and  many  large  icebergs  were  around.  At  meridian,  their  latitude  was 
68°  41'  S.,  longitude  103°  34'  W.,  when  they  again  stood  to  the  south- 
ward, running  among  the  ice-islands  with  a  fair  wind,  flattering  them- 
selves that  'ley  should  before  noon  of  the  next  day  get  further  south 
than  Cook  had.  But  their  hopes  were  soon  blasted;  for  the  weather 
became  thick,  and  they  were  in  consequence  obliged  to  heave-to.  The 
wind  soon  freshened  to  a  gale,  accompanied  by  a  heavy  sea. 
VOL.  I.  20 


104 


SOUTHERN    CRUISE. 


March  aad,  from  midnight  to  four  o'cloci<,  a  fresh  gale,  with  raia 
The  weather  lighting  up  at  intervals,  made  them  aware  that  they  were 
m  the  mid.st  of  innumerable  ice-islands,  so  closely  packed  as  scarcely  to 
allbrd  a  passage  between  them.  At  four,  the  wind  still  continuing  fresh 
and  the  weather  misty,  they  stood  to  the  northward  and  eastward. 
The  weather  grew  thicker  and  became  colder.     Shortly  after  the  fog 
lifted,  and  they  found  themselves  surrounded  by  narrow  fields  of  ice, 
with  contracted  passages  between  them,   extending  in  a    direction 
perpendicular  to  that  of  the  wind.    As  far  as  the  eye  could  reach  were 
icebergs,  packed  und  floating,  in  all  directions.     After  a  short  exami- 
nation, some  places  appeared  where  the  ice  was  not  so  compact.     At 
one  of  these,  they  succeeded  in  passing  through.     Fresh  gales  and 
thick  weather  followed,  and  they  still  passed  numbers  of  icebergs,  of 
from  eighty  to  one  hundred  ieet  in  height,  with  the  sea  breaking  on 
them.  ° 

On  the  morning  of  the  23d,  their  latitude  was  70°  S.,  longitude 
100°  16'  W.  The  weather  proved  clear.  In  the  afternoon  they  again 
stood  to  the  southward  and  eastward  for  three  hours,  when  they 
observed  the  appearance  of  land,  and  discovered  large  masses  of  ice 
and  numerous  icebergs.  At  midnight  the  southern  horizon  was  beauti- 
fully  illuminated  with  the  aurora  australis. 

On  the  24th  of  March,  they  had  a  heavy  fall  of  snow;  passed  many 
icebergs,  and  large  quaiK.ties  of  floating  ice;  got  suddenly  into  large 
helds  of  packed  and  broken  ice,  extending  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach,  in  all  directions,  which,  with  the  accuinulation  of  snow 
appeared  to  be  rapidly  becoming  solid.  They  lost  no  time  in  forcing 
their  way  out.  All  on  board  were  of  opinion,  that  within  a  short  time 
after  they  cleared  it,  it  became  a  firm  field  of  ice.  The  latitude  observed 
was  60°  00'  S.,  longitude  90°  50'  W. 

Having  on  two  occasions  narrowly  escaped  being  closed  in  by  the 
ice.  Lieutenant  Walker  had  determined  to  return,  and  was  making  his 
way  to  the  north  when  he  fell  in  with  the  Peacock. 

The  nights  having  become  long,  with  the  interruptions  occasioned 
by  fogs  and  snow-storms,  allbrded  but  little  time  for  runninc^  the 
vessels  among  the  icebergs,  whose  numbers  rendered  the  iiavi  °ation 
extremely  hazardous.  The  condition  of  the  Peacock  for  a  water's 
campaign,  was  miserable,  and  on  board  the  Flying-Fish  there  was  no 
protection  in  the  event  of  being  frozen  in.  The  positive  nature  of  his 
instructions,  combined  with  the  report  of  Lieutenant  Walker,  convinced 
Captain  Hudson  of  the  necessity  of  turning  the  vessels'  heads  towards 
a  more  temperate  climate.  On  holding  a  council  with  his  ollicers,  he 
found  them  all  of  the  opinion  that  the  season  for  active  operations  in 


SOUTHERN   CRUISE. 


155 


these  latitnclcs  ha.l  pns..,|,  and  that  it  was  advisable  for  the  vessels  to 
proceed  without  delay  to  the  north. 

He  remarks  in  his  report  (which,  together  with  T.ieutenant  Walker's, 
•vdl  be  fi.nnd  .n  Appendix  XXXI.),  "That  it  required  ,nore  mora 
courage  than  I  can  well  describe,  to  bring  my  mind  to  this  decision, 
or  w  ad  at  that  moment  less  ice  about  us  than  at  any  time  since  w 
had  entered  among  it;  but  I  felt  satisfied,  taking  all  things  into 
consideration  that  nothing  more  could  be  done  at  this  late  season,  and 
that  It  would  be  recklessly  hazarding  the  lives  of  those  entrusted  to 
my  care,  jeoparding  the  vessels,  and  of  great  detriment  to  the  fiiture 
operations  of  the  Expedition,  which  an  honest  conviction  of  the  duty 
I  owed  my  country,  most  decidedly  forbade."  The  vessels  accord, 
ingly  steered  to  the  northward. 

The  weather,  during  ,he  cruise  south,  was  exceedingly  unfavour- 
(tell  ^l''  «x-ep»ions,  during   their  stay  in    the  Antarctic 

.rcle  they  were  enx^loped  in  dense  fogs,  or  for.id  only  occasional 
rehef  from  them  m  falls  of  snow.  The  crew  during  the  whole  time 
enjoyed  an  unustml  degree  of  health,  which  is  not  a  little  surprising- 
for  since  leaving  Orange  Harbour,  the  state  of  the  ship  had  been  such 
as  to  promote  disease.     The  precautions  and  endeavours  to  keep  the 

refcrreZo.'"'"  "^  ^'''''''  ''''""'  '''"  '""'"''°"  "^  '^'  '^'^'  ^'"''^^^''^ 
On  the  night  of  the  26th,  they  had  again  a  slight  display  of  the 
aurora  its  radiations  extending  30=^  in  altitude.  Fresh  gales  blew 
from  the  northwest,  with  a  heavy  sea,  so  that  the  tender  found  diffi- 
'•ulty  m  keeping  company,  an.l  they  reduced  sail  in  order  to  avoid 
parting  with  her.         . 

The  fresh  gales  continued  on  the  27th,  accompanied  with  rain. 
Towards  night  it  cleared  a  little,  and,  with  the  aid  of  the  young  moon, 
they  were  enabled  to  run  through  the  ice. 

The  weather  proved  thick  on  the  28th  and  29th,  and  they  had  little 

wmds,  which  were  light.  On  this  night  a  new  danger  beset  them,  that 
of  being  consumed  by  fire  !  At  midnight,  on  the  29th  of  March,  the^^ 
were  aroused  by  the  smell  of  burning  and  smoke,  issuing  from  tlu". 
main  hold.  The  usual  orders  were  given  relative  to  the  magazine. 
The  drum  beat  to  quarters.  On  opening  the  main  hatch,  smokelssuerl 
out  m  volumes,  and  fire  was  discovered  under  it,  proceeding  from  a 
bag  in^full  blaze.  This  was  soon  passed  on  deck,  and  the  fire  extin- 
!?".«hGu.  It  was  fortunately  discovered  in  time,  and  was  found  to  pro- 
-ood  from  a  quantity  of  coflie,  which  had  been  put  below,  in  the  bag. 
='fter  If  had  been  burnt  or  roasted,  the  previous  afternoon. 


159 


MO  J  Til  KIIN    «;R  U  IM  K. 


Oil  llu-  Isl  of  April,  in  liililii.l.>  (;(»'  ly  S.,  longiiuiic  HI' !iu'  VV., 
('aptniii  Ild.lsoii  .iuspalclicd  iIk;  u.iuk'r  lo  Oniiifrc  iniil.oiir,  with  lii's 
roporiH  to  mo,  and  ronlinnctl  liis  route  to  Vulparuiso.  Tliu  last  ico- 
berirs  socn  \v<mi!  in  laliludc!  «W"  ao'  S.,  longitudo  87°  41'  W. ;  tliu 
tuniporatm*!  of  air  U.r  ;  of  watur  ;jr)". 

('aptain  Hudson  .spuuk.s  in  lliu  liigliosl  terms  ofiiis  odicor.s  and  crew, 
ol  llioir  promplness  and  oHiciency  in  the  performance  of  tluir  respective 
diilics,  and  of  tlicir  cordial  co-operation  in  carrying  out  iiis  views. 

They  experienced  a  gale  of  wind  on  ihe  (Sth  and  7lh  of  April,  in 
whicli  llie  barometer  fell  to  ^H-71  inci„.s.  S.,me  of  the  squalls  were 
remarkably  heavy,  and  the  sea  high  and  lopping.  The  gale  began  at 
northwest,  varying  to  the  eastward,  aiul  siiddeidy  changed  to  west- 
southwest;  latitude!  .W  47'  S.,  longitude  HI"  W. 

On  the  mh,  Koyal  Hope,  ordinary  seaman,  fell  from  aloft,  but  did 
not  experience  any  injury.  In  latitude  .'".r  S.,  longitude  8^^  W.,  the 
sea  again  showed  signs  of  i)Iiospliorescence :  the  temperature  of  the 
water  was  Ki'. 

On  the  Hill,  they  had  reached  the  lalilude  of  -ir  'M'  S.,  longitude 
80°  VV.,  and  the  weather  began  to  moderate,  having  passed  t)-,e  stormy 
latitudes  of  from  flO"  to  (iO'  S.,  where  the  heaviest^inds  and  .oas  are 
met  with. 

The  wind,  on  the  lyth  of  April,  in  the  latilude  of  40'  S.,  beg  ui  to 
draw  to  the  eastward,  and  gradually  passed  into  the  trade-wind.  The 
l.'ith  of  April  \.as  the  fust  fair  day  they  had  had  since  the  2/.th  of 
February. 

On  the  KJtli  of  April,  they  had  much  phosphorescence,  appearing 
as  it  were  in  shuels  of  liijuid  (ire:  the  temperature  of  the  waV-r  58^" 
latilude  iHi"  S.,  longitude  ?.'•>"  W. 

On  the  ITth,  liiey  spoke  the  whale-ship  Francis,  and  afTorded  lier 
medical  assistance.  Tnlil  the  i-Oth,  lliey  had  very  light  airs,  -.iclinii.'r 
to  calms.  On  the  evening  of  the  lOlh,  they  made  tlie  land  of  Chili  • 
and  on  the  21st  the  Peucuck  arrived  in  Valparaiso,  where  to  tl-cir 
surprise  they  found  our  store-ship  the  ilelief,  which  had  arrived  ai 
Valparaiso  some  days  jnevious. 

The  R.  Uef  left  Orange  Harbour  on  the  20th  of  February,  (a  coDy 
of  her  ill',  a;etions  will  be  found  in  Appendix  XXX.,)  for  the  purpose 
of  visiting  various  places  in  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  to  allbrd  an  op- 
portunity of  making  invt  .tigations,  and  opeuii;g  a  larger  field  for  our 
naturalists  during  the  fifty  or  sixty  days  they  were  to  be  detained  on 
the  coast.  Most  of  the  scientific  gentlemen  were  accordingly  trans- 
ferred to  her;  and  she  was  ordered  to  enter  the  Brecknociri'assage, 
and  thence  into  Cockburn  S(jund,  of  which  we  had  King's  valuable 


.1  OUT  IF  KU  S    CFl  I'  I  H  F. 


15) 


I'liart ;  ami  I  flioiighf,  tlmt  tho  passa^'o  into  tlio  strait  was  more  fcasiblo, 
and  might  bo  sooner  accorn|»li.sho(l  by  that  route  than  by  taking  the 
(,'astnrn  passage,  particularly  as  the  wiiirl  was  fhvourabl.j.  falso 
llioiiglit  it  would  oiiabh  tboin  to  explore  r.iorc  parts  of  the  straits,  and 
those  which  had  been  Icjist  visited. 

Vnrloi.s  difriculties  prevented  her  reaching  the  entrance  to  the 
Brecknock  Passage,  principally  that  of  keeping  too  far  ofF  the  coast 
'in  long  tacks  to  the  southward. 

On  the  nth  of  March,  after  being  at  sea  twenty  days,  they  ap- 
proached the  coast,  and  a  galo  ensuing  frf)rn  the  south  vest,  Lieutenant- 
Commandant  Long,  on  the  following  day,  determined  to  run  in  and 
ar,('hor  under  Noir  Island,  which  is  spoken  of  by  King  as  an  excellent 
harlviur.  The  wind  was  biriwing  a  gale  from  the  southwest,  with 
thick  weather  and  hail-squalls.  Noir  Island  was  discovered  under  the 
ioe,  judged  to  be  about  tweKe  miles  distant,  when  they  steered  for  it. 
It  becoming  thick,  they  did  not  discover  tho  Tower  Rocks  until  they 
wore  almost  up  with,  and  just  had  time  to  clear  them.  Thcs^-  rocks 
presented  a  magnificent  and  fearful  sight,  the  sea  breaking  completely 
.vor  them.  Three  anchors  wore  prepared.  They  rounded  the  south- 
'•ast  point  of  the  island,  and  stood  in  for  tho  bay.  At  about  five  o'clock 
'!iey  anchored  in  seventeen  fathf.ms,  and  the  anchor  took  eHcct. 

On  tho  morning  of  the  19th,  the  highest  point  c  T  Noir  Island  was 
seen,  capjicd  with  snow;  the  wind  had  abated  somewhat,  but  not 
■!nongh  lo  [)crmit  of  their  landing  in  a  snug  little  cove  abreast  of  them. 
In  the  afternoon  the  wind  again  increased,  and  another  anchor  was 
H;t  go.  There  was  much  sea,  and  the  ship  rode  very  uneasy  at  her 
anchor.  The  sea  broke  tremendously  on  the  reef  astern,  shooting  up 
in  columns,  such  as  are  scon  to  ap|)car  under  the  eficct  of  mirage. 
After  it  became  dark,  the  wind  shifted  to  the  southward  and  eastward, 
which  brought  the  sea  from  that  quarter,  and  exposed  them  more  both 
to  it  and  the  wind.  The  anchors  shortly  after  began  to  drag,  and  the 
vessel  was  urged  in  the  direction  of  a  rock.  Fortunately  the  wind 
abated  towards  morning,  and  came  from  its  old  quarter,'  southwest, 
more  off  the  land,  but  still  blew  with  violence. 

On  the  morning  of  the  20th,  one  of  their  ct.ain  cables  wac  found  to 
have  parted.  The  chain  was  hove  in  with  some  ditficulty.  and  atiother 
anchor  let  go.  Tho  weather  towards  evening  became  aguin  threaten- 
ing, and  produced  no  little  anxiety.  At  nightfall  it  shifted  in  the  same 
way  it  had  done  the  previous  evening,  blowing  again  heavily.  The 
ship  was  felt  to  bn  constantly  dragfting.  accompanied  by  that  grating 
kind  of  noise  of  the  chain  moving  on  the  bottom,  which  is  any  thing 
but  agreeable.     The  rock  astern,  together  with  the  reef  toward  which 


IAN 


MO  (I  Til  i;it  ^   (;|{  r  I  si; 


tl»'  wi.i.l  iiii.l  «oj.  w,nv.  l)oih  s.-llii,«  III..-  .l.i,,,  ,„ii(i„ml  ii„;,r  siumtioi. 
Inily  appalliiiK.  'I'lm  |.nM|K;cl  .,1  any  ..no  su.vivin^r,  j,,  ,..a„,  il„,y  |,n,| 
Hln.ck.  uiiH  oxlromoly  hIihIiI.  ']'|,„  ni^hi  was  .lark  aiul  .stonuy.  and 
II"'  •Ira^Kii'K  ••'.nliim.'.l  .M-casioiially  until  ini.liii^r|,|,  when  tlicy  loiuxl 
liioy  liad  i-asMMl  an.l  .!sra|..Ml  lli.;  inrk,  and  wimc  muir  llio  rouf.  Tlioy 
now  HlH|.|K!d  u  lu;avy  s.,a  ..vijr  ll.o  hows,  tlio  .shock  of  whi.^li  was  s.. 
Kiea(  thai,  it  |.ail.;d  ih.Mr  nil.K  and  tli.iii-  drilling  hucanii)  lapid. 
I'' '"Ml  lh.>  s.!t  of  111,,  .Mnnsnl,  lli.jy  just  cleuicd  Iho  roof.  Whoa  tlio 
point  of  llu,  island  horo  oast  of  s..nlli,  tlu^y  slipped  ihoir  ,.al,|es,  won- 
round,  an.l  niado  sail;  and  ..n  llio  iilsi,  at  dayhioak,  thoy  lunn.l  thom- 
Bolvos  (iirCapo  CJIouoostor. 

Tho.-oM.hi.'i  .,r  l-i.'Ulonanl-('..innian.lant  Lon;,',  his  olliours  and  nun. 
during'  Iho  pord..us  silur.lion  in  whi.'h  tiio   ll.'liof  was  pla.x-.l.  .l.;soivcs 
Kival  piaiso;  thoy  di.l  lluni   duly  iu  cvcvy  rospool.     On  goltin^'  I.,  s.ni. 
Iwoutonant-C.Mnniandant  Lonj,',  with  a  o..uncil  of  „Hioors,  ..pono.l  his 
Kt;alo.l  insiin.-lions,  which  diroclod  hint  to  proceed  to  V^ilparai.so,  in  the 
ovoni  of  not  finding'  mo  <mi  his  iviuni  to  Oran.iro  Ilarl.oin-;  ami  .^..n- 
cliido.1  to  make  lor  N'alparaiso,  ..ir  whi.-h  p.nt  iio  anivod  .)n  llio  lUih 
of  yVpril,  without  anchors,  which  s.n.n  bocunio  known  to  Connnan.lanl 
F.ock.-.  of  hor  Hnlannic  INlajtisty's  ship  Kly.     Ho,  in  llio  n...sl  prompt 
nn.l   handsome   mauu.;r,  .lospatch.-.l    a    hoat   wilh  an  an.'hor    lo   th.- 
assistance  of  the  Kcliof;  an.l   it  allonls  mo  great  pleasure  I..  ackn..w- 
ied.iro  (he  obli.gation  wo  li-vl   |i,r  liiis  ..pp..rlune  service.     The   next 
day  (he  Uoliefan.-lDro.l  in  the  hay  of  Valparaiso. 
IJul  to  relmn  to  Draiiir,'  Harhonr, 

The  Flyin,ir-Fish  arrive!  ..n   iho   llih   April.     The  .Inties  of  \hr 
obe.-vatory  havinjr  hecn  comploio.l,  iho  inslrumonts  were  emharko.l. 
nn.l  ov.M-y  thing  nia.l.^  r.-a.ly  lor  ..ur  .lopartniv.    During  the  Vinoennes- 
stay  hero  of  sixty  .lays,  wo  foun.l  the  woalhor  oxcx-dingly  changoahle. 
The  winds  prevaile.l  Inrly-sovou  days  from  iho  westward,  twelve  d.ays 
from  the  north  and  eastward,  and  one  lr..m  the  .soulhoast.     The  moan 
tompcrature  was   1  |.;{(i' ;  maximum,  rM\  minimum,  ;W°.     During  tiiis 
lituo  there  were  eleven  gales  of  win.l,  ..f  from  two  lo  thr.;o  days*  duration. 
The  mean  range  of  the  haromelor  was  ^'D-NOi  in. ;  its  muvemoni  in 
pre.hclmg  the  weather,  was  directly  opposite  to  that  observed  in  other 
latiludes,  the  gales  always  conuu.Miciug  when  tlu-  barometer  began 
to  rise,  line  weather  generally  couliuuing  until  it  reache.l  its  minimum. 
iiSMOJ)  m.,  to  which  it  sinks  in  fruu  twenty-lour  to  thirty-six  hours 
and  where  it  remained  stationary  for  a  few  hours,  during  all  which 
time  the  weather  conlinue.I  goo.l.     As  the  barometer  begins  to  rise, 
the  gales  come  .,n,  and    .-.intinue  until  the    mercury  again   reaches' 
nearly  its  luaximuin  point,  .'W-vil  I  in. 


HO u Til  i;  H  N  ciM- 1  s  i: 


ISO 


Thoro  won.  I.„t  li-w  ilnyn  on  whirl,  nin  .li.l  not  fall  ,l„n„.,  «omo 
F|'--"Mn  of  iho  twonly-fonr  hcnrs,  l„,t  s.Mo,,,  honvily;  lig|„„i„„  ,„„| 
<""".I.T  .-•.•iirr..,|  o,„.„  ,|,„i„.  H,.,  fi,„.;.  Tho  rli.nato  may  l,o  cnllo.1 
.•xIrn.H-  y  hn.sl..n.„s,  nlth„„-l,  fr.,m  flu,  fa.-t  of  l|,o  natives  hein-'  will,- 
out  any  kni.l  of  ,.ov,.,in:r,„„„  w„ul.!  sM,.,.ns„  it  .-annul  l,o  very  variable 
ns  to  fon^iMTatnr.,,  ihronRlmut,  Iho  yonr.  Th.,  wa,.t  of  dothin-r  is  not 
howovvr,  |...,-Mliar  to  all  fho  natives;  ihoso  soon  at  CJoo.1  Sncross  Bay 
w.M-o  wril  ,-nv.M-,„|  with  ,^nana.-o(;-sl<ins,  and  ar.,  a  iincr-lookin.r  ami 
(allor  raci)  of  mon.  " 

OhHorvations  of  any  kind  aro  difricult  to  l„,  had  at  Oranm,  Ilnrlmur 
cithor  hy  day  or  niirlit.  ' 

Whilo  r,i..Ml,,,ant  Carr  and  his  party  w.m'c  at  tho  ..bservalory,  a 
vv..lf  was  s.vn.  at  whirl,  Mi.lsl,i,.rnai,  Clark  firr.I,  l.nt  supposed  ho 
was  not  sIh,i.  TIio  next  rnornin,ir  ho  was  found  dead  at  a  short  dis- 
ta«,ro  ln.,M  the  plaro.  FTo  appea,ed  very  ferocions  and  fearless.  Mr 
J'rayton  made  a  eon-eet  .Irawin- of  him,  and  a  munher  of  meas.n-e- 
luofts  woro  tak.n,.     The  hair  was  Ion.:'  over  the  whole  body,  an.l  that 

"."'"*  ""'  '"■'•'^  •■ ^'"•••Id.Ts  st.Mul  ci-eet.     It  was  n  male,  wei,d,.,..l 

<'l<|-<"'  I">in..!s  an.l  thr.-e  ,|nart.Ms.  an.l  measured,  fr..n,  nnso  to  tip  of 
tad,  tinre  te.;t  six  an.l  thi-.-e-foin-ths  im-h.'s,  and  st..o,l  sixte..n  inrhcv 
and  a  half  In-h  ;  e..|onr  ..f  l,a.-k,  top  of  h(^ad  and  tail,  ^ray,  the  latter 
with  a  fiitt  of  l,la.-k  at  its  .mi.I;  si.les  ..f  head  an.l  ontsi.le  .,f  lerrs 
r<'.l.lish  l.n.wn;  white  hetw(..-,i  tho  l.-.irs  an.l  on  tho  belly.  Dr.  F.^x 
some  days  afterwar.ls  shot  a  fnnale  near  the  same  plarc ;  she  ha.l 
attacked  ono  of  the  men,  and  seized  his  pea-ja.;ket. 

The  wolf  is  tl„.  only  land  animal  that  is  a  native  of  tho  soil,  and  is 
supposed  the  same  as  that  d.'s.-ribe.l  by  (\iptain  Kin-.  Tho  natives 
have  many  dofrs. 

Of  land  birds,  wc  fonn.l  tho  ni)land  g..oso,  a  most  beautiful  ca-Mo  a 
few  plover,  and  some  small  bir.ls.  There  arc  great  quantities  of\vil.l 
iowl,  geese,  .lurks,  an.l  the  usual  sra  bir.ls,  to  bo  soon  at  all  times  in 
the  harb..ur,  where  they  fin.l  abiindanre  of  food  among  the  kelp. 

A  number  of  burnt  human  bones  were  dug  „p  hi  a  rave;  but 
whether  the  natives  burn  their  dead  or  not,  wo  ha.l  no  opiiortunitv  of 
ascertaining.  "^ 

Orange  Harbour  is  an  excellent  place  to  obtain  wood  and  water 
I  he  latter  is  easily  pr.)curc.l  mid  of  good  .,uality.     Winter-bark  may 
bo  obtained  here  in  large  quantities ;  scurvy-grass  and  wild  celery  are 
also  plentiful  around  the  shores;  and  fish  arc  in  abundance. 

As  a  resort  for  vessels  in  distress  or  aflecfod  with  scurvy,  &r.  &c 
this  port  may  bo  roeonnnen.le.l ;  an.l  it  is  tho  onlv  one  on  this  coast 
that  oners  a  safe  and  .•.mvenicnt  harbour  to  supplv"their  wants. 


16U 


SOUTHERN   CRUISE. 


On  the  17th  April,  the  time  having  expired  for  the  return  of  the 
Relief,  I  concluded  to  leave  Orange  Harbour  with  the  Vinccnnes  and 
Porpoise.  Believing  the  Relief  had  been  detained,  the  Flying-Fish  and 
Sea-Gull  tenders  were  both  left  to  await  her  arrival,  for  ten  days,  to 
take  the  scientific  gentlemen  on  board,  and  join  us  at  Valparaiso,  in 
order  to  prevent  detention  by  the  slow  sailing  of  that  ship. 

We  got  under  way;  but  the  wind  drawing  ahead,  with  appearances 
of  bad  weather,  we  anchored  in  Scapenham  Bay.  The  weather 
becoming  stormy,  and  thinking  the  place  in  which  we  were  anchored 
too  much  exposed,  we  again  got  under  way,  ran  back,  and  anchored 
in  Orange  Bay. 

Before  leaving  these  desolate  and  stormy  regions,  it  may  be  expected 
that  J  should  say  a  few  words  relative  to  the  passage  round  the  Cape. 
There  are  so  many  opinions  relative  to  the  best  manner  of  proceeding 
in   this   navigation,  that   one   iv    consulting   them   derives   but   little 
satisfaction,  no   two   authorities   agreeing   in  their  views   upon   the 
subject.     I  am  inclined  to  believe  that  as  much  depends  upon  the 
vessel,  and  the  manner  in  which  she  is  navigated,  as  the  route  pursued, 
whether  the  Cape  is  passed  close  to,  or  given  a  good  berth :  the  object 
of  all  is  to  pass  it  as  quickly  as  possible,  and  taking  into  consideration 
the  diificulties  to  be  incurred  from  boisterous  weather,  heavy  seas,  and 
ice,  it  is  impossible  to  lay  down  any  precise  rule :  that  course  which 
appears  most  feasible  at  the  time  ought  to  be  adopted,  keeping,  how- 
ever, in  view,  that  there  is  no  danger  to  be  apprehended  in  navigating 
on  the  western  coast  of  Terra  del  Fuego,  as  the  current  sets  along  its 
coast,  and  it  is  perfectly  safe  and  practicable  to  navigate  it  as  far  as 
Cape  Pillar.     The  great  difficulty  exists  in  passing  the  pitch  of  the 
Cape ;  there  is  none  afterwards  in  getting  to  the  westward.     On  the 
coast,  the  wind  seldom  blows  long  from  the  same  quarter,  but  veers 
from  southwest  to  northwest :  the  gales  generally  begin  at  the  former 
quarter  and  end  at  the  latter.     Previous  to  the  southwest  gales,  it 
would,  therefore,  in  all  cases,  be  advisable,  when  indications  of  their 
occurrence  are  visible,  (which  are  known  by  the  banks  of  cumuli  in 
that  quarter,  some  twenty-four  hours  previously,)  to  stand  to  the  south- 
ward and  westward  in  preference,  with  as  much  sail  as  well  can  be 
carried,  that  when  the  change  occurs,  you  may  be  ready  to  stand  on 
the  other  tack  to  the  northward.     One  thing  every  navigator  ought  to 
bear  in  mind,  that  it  requires  all  the  activity  and  perseverance  he  may 
be  possessed  of,  to  accomplish  it  quickly. 

On  the  20th  we  took  our  final  leave  of  these  waters,  and  on  the 
21st  lost  sight  of  land,  passing  to  the  northward  of  the  island  of  Diego 
Ramieres.  i 


SOUTHERN   CRUISE. 


IG] 


On  the  23d,  during  a  strong  gale,  we  parted  company  with  the 
Porpoise.     On  the  28th,  found  ourselves   in  longitude  78°  30'  W 
latuude  56°  30'  S.,  when  I  kept  away  to  the  nofthward,  it  bLing 
violently  from  the  southward  and  westward,  with  a  heavy  sea.  ^ 

On  the  30th.  we  had  reached  the  latitude  of  43°  S.,  longitude  76° 
W..  when  the  wind  came  out  from  the  northward.  U  being  a  mild 
day  we  caught  with  a  small  hook,  several  fine  albatrosses,  ten  feet  six 
inches  from  wmg  to  wing.     They  were  preserved  as  specimens. 

Immediately  after  leaving  Orange  Harbour,  dysentery  made  its 
appearance  on  board  the  Vincennes,  and  ran  through  the  whole  shipl 
company.  Some  of  the  officers  were  also  affected.  It  proved  of  a 
very  mild  type  and  readily  yielded  to  medical  treatment.  Upon  our 
arrival  at  Valparaiso,  it  had  entirely  disappeared.  The  medica 
officers  were  unable  to  account  for  it,  the  health  of  the  ship's  company 
having  been  very  good  during  our  stay  at  Orange  Harbour.  It  w"^ 
not  thought  to  be  owing  to  the  water,  as  they  had  been  using  tfo 
wo  months  without  any  bad  effect,  but  I  think  must  be  imputed' to  he 
coW  and  wet  we  experienced  in  the  first  part  of  the  passage. 

On  the  10th,  we  made  the  island  of  Mocha.  The  northerly  wind 
continued  until  the  Uth  of  May,  when  we  had  a  gale  for  severafhours 
The  barometer  indicated  this  gale  by  a  fall  of  .300  in.  This  .ale 
seemed  to  break  up  our  adverse  winds,  and  we  were  short  ^  afer- 
wards  enabled  to  lay  our  course.    This  was  the  first  fair  wind  L  n  ne 

On  the  13th    m  latitude  36°  S.,  we  took  the  trade-winds.  Cape 
pigeons,  and  albatrosses  still  continuing  with  us  ^ 

anchored  in  the  bay,  where  we  found  the  Peacock,  and  received 
Laliao     The  Porpoise  arrived  on  the   16th,  and  the   Flying-Fish 


RELIEF  AT  NOIR  ISLAND. 

VOI,=  I.  09  2i 


AI 

G. 
DE 
TH 
CL 
-I 


CHAPTER  IX. 


CONTENTS. 

APPROACH  THE  COAST-CORDILLERAS-VISIT  TO  AUTHORITIES  OF  VALPARAISO- 
LANDING  OF  INSTRUSIENTS-CUSTOM-HOUSE  OFFICERS-MR.  COOD-OBSERVATOltV- 
G.  G.  HOBSON,  ESa.-NORTHERS-I'ERCEPTIDLE  CHANGE  IN  THE  BAY-VALPARAISO- 
DESCRIPTION  OP  IT-ITS  ORDER  AND  GOVERN.MENT-TRAIT  OF  CHILIANS -POt.ICE- 
THEIR  SIGNAL-SUOPS-AMUSE.MENTS-CHINGANO-D.\NCES-SAMACUECA-niGHER 
CLASSES -DRESS -TASTE  FOR  MUSIC-FONDNESS  FOR  FLOWERS-GENERAL  PKIETO 
-HONOURS  PAID  HIM-BALL-DESCRIPTION  OF  IT. 


'168) 


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exei 
atte 


CHAPTER   IX. 

CHILI. 


1839. 

On  approaching  the  coast  of  Chili,  every  one  is  anxious  to  get  a 
sight  of  the  Cordilleras.  There  are  only  two  periods  during  the  day 
in  which  they  can  be  seen  to  advantage,  viz. :  in  the  morning  before 
sunrise,  and  in  the  evening  at  sunset.  The  first  is  the  most  striking 
view.  The  outline  is  at  that  time  of  a  golden  hue,  and  may  be  easily 
traced,  in  a  long  line,  running  north  and  south.  This  gradually 
brightens,  and  is  lost  the  moment  the  sun  is  seen. 

The  evening  view  gives  rise  to  disappointment.  The  mountains  are 
seen  at  a  great  distance  (eighty  miles  in  a  bird's  flight)  reflecting  the 
setting  sun,  and,  in  consequence,  appear  much  lower  than  is  anticipated. 

On  our  arrival  at  Valparaiso,  I  lost  no  time  in  establishing  the 
observatory.  The  officers  and  scientific  gentlemen  were  assigned  to 
such  duties  as  were  deemed  most  desirable  to  insure  the  results"  in  the 
different  departments. 

The  authorities,  whom  I  at  once  called  upon  in  company  with  our 
consul,  were  exceedingly  kind  and  attentive,  and  gave  every  ofltr  of 
assistance. 

The  officers  of  the  customs  readily  gave  me  permission  to  land  all 
my  instruments.  Mr.  Cood,  an  English  gentleman,  kindly  offered  our 
consul  to  place  at  my  disposition  an  unoccupied  house  on  the  hill. 
Although  it  was  some  distance  to  mount  up,  as  it  was  quiet  and  out  of 
the  way,  I  accepted  the  kind  offer,  and  occupied  it. 

As  I  was  desirous  of  avoiding  all  Ui.necessary  delay,  not  only  on 
account  of  the  loss  of  time  we  had  already  met  with,  but  because  the 
season  was  approaching  when  the  northers  might  be  expected,  every 
exertion  was  made  to  supply  our  wants,  and  through  the  kindness  an'l 
attention  of  our  consul,  G.  G.  Hobson,  Esq.,  this  was  effected  in  the 


inn 


ru  I  M. 


^Iir.fl(!sl  |Mssil)l.>  iiinr.  'I'l,,.  n,,rlli,M-s  nn;  .-^Toafly  divad.i.l,  iiltlioii^l,  ] 
ihiiiK  wiih.Hil  luiK-li  ciuisc.  On,,  „r  ||„,n,,  ;i,„|  ||,„  I„sf.  of  any  foiv,.,  | 
liii.l  inyscir  cxiHTHMiccI  in  J,,,,,,,  1N>J'»,  (wliilst,  in  (^..rninand  nf';, 
iM.-ivliaiit.  vessel.)  In  it  ciLrhli-cM  sail  of  vessels  woro  lost.  15nt  since 
lliat  IJMK!  v(!ss('l,s  aro  n.iich  hvAUn-  pn.vidt^d  willi  rabies  and  anclicrs, 
anil  what  |.r(.v<Ml  a  disastrons  slonn  lliun,  would  now  snarculy  bo  Mu 
I  do  not  (l(U!ni  tli(!  bay  so  <lan^'(M-(.iis  as  it  bas  iho  name  of  beini,'.  Tlio 
Mival  dilliciilly  of  III,-  iM)i-|  is  its  ,-,.n(in,Ml  sparo,  and  in  llio  event  of  a 
.■^■dc,  lb,-  s,-a  ||i;,|  sets  in  is  so  heavy,  ibal,  vess.ds  are  liable  to  eoni,;  in 
'•onla<-|  witli  ,'aeli  r.||i,!r,  and  to  b,;  more  or  |,!s.s  injmx'd.  Tbe  [)ort  is 
too  limile,!  in  e\t,-nl  to  a<-eonnnodal,!  the  trade  that  is  earried  on  in  it. 
Various  s<-li,>m,>s  an,l  improvements  are  talked  ,.f,  but  none  that  ar,> 
leasible.  The  (lei)tli  of  \vat(!r  opp,)ses  an  almost  insiiperabl,;  obslach- 
to  its  improvomont  by  piers.  The  enl.-rpris,;  of  the  gi.vcn-ntnont,  an.l 
of  Iho  inhabitants  of  Valparai-c,  is,  1  am  well  satisfied,  equal  to  any 
underlakinii;  that  is  pn.,;lieal)le. 

l''rom  the  best  aeeonnts,  I  am  satisfied  that  the  harbour  is  fillin<,'  np. 
from  the  wash  oft'  the  hills.  Althoiiirh  this  may  seem  but  a  .^nall 
amonut  of  <Ieposition,  yet  aHer  a  lapse  of  sixteen  years,  the  change  was 
qtiite  perceptible  to  inc;,  an,l  the  oMest  ivsidents  confirmed  the  fact. 
Th<5  anchorage  of  the  vessels  has  chang,;,!,  and  what  before  was 
thought  an  extremely  dangerous  situation,  is  now  <-onsidorcd  the  best 
in  the  event  of  bad  weather.  The  sea  is  to  be  feared  rather  than  the 
wind,  for  the  latter  seldom  l)|,)ws  home,  because  the  land  immediately 
behiiul  the  city  rises  ii,  abrupt  hills,  to  the  height  of  from  eight  to  fifeen 
hundred  and  two  thousand  feet. 

Valparaiso  has  greatly  increaseil  in  sixe  and  consequence  within  the 
last  f,>w  years,  and  lias  becom,;  <lie  great  seaport  of  Chili,  and,  iiuleed, 
of  the  whole  coast.  Allhoiigh  it  I', hours  under  many  disadvantag,;s  as 
respects  its  harbour,  which  is  inferior  to  others  on  the  coast,  yel  it  is 
I  he  near(>st  and  most  convenient  port  to  Santiago,  the  capital, 

I  liav,>  had  some  ojiportunity  of  knowing  Valparaiso,  and  contrast- 
ing its  present  state  with  that  of  18'Jl  ami  18'J2.  It  was  then  a  mere 
village,  composed,  with  but  \c,w  exceptions,  of  straggling  raiichos.  It 
h:is  now  the  appearance  of  a  thi,-kly-settled  town,  with  a  population 
of  ihirty  Ihousan.l.  five  times  the  number  it  had  then.  It  is  divided 
mio  two  parts,  one  of  which  is  known  by  the  nanu^  of  the  Port,  and 
is  the  old  town;  tbe  other  by  that  of  the  Almendral,  oc.-upying  a 
level  plain  to  the  east.  Its  location  is  by  no  means  such  as  to  show 
it  to  a,lvaiitage.  The  principal  biiil.lings  arc  tbe  custom-house,  two 
chnrches,  and  the  bouses  occupying  the  main  street.  Most  of  the 
buildings  arc  of  one  story,  and  are  built  of  adobes  or  sun-dried  brick. 


c  ir  I  I,  I. 


107 


T  0  w  „  s  o   the  bu.l.  <n.s  arc  fn,n,  fo.,r  to  six  loot  thick.     The  reason 

n,o,|.  of  l.„,M,„,  is  „,o  |VcH,ucnt  occurrence  of  earthquakes. 

I- s     <-  s  arc  well  j.vc.I.     'VU.  Plaza  has  not  much  to  reco/nrnend 

•'•      ll.c  (.ovorn.ncnt  House  is  nn  inferior  huil.ling.     Great  improve 

...en  s  are  r.ow  making,  and  u.any  buildings  putting  up.  ' 

•  "oy  an,  a l,..ut  hr,„^ri„g  water  Irom  one  of  the  neighbouring  sprin-s 

r.n,n(o.(s      (n   tJ.e  Inils  are  n.any  neat  and  comfortable  dwellings 

;r     1    a"  "':^^'^^-"'"f -•     '^''-'^    -    chiefly  occupier    y^ 
'■  ...'I'.-s  of    Amer.can   and   English   merchants.      This    i     the   most 

•  •  v^  e  it  "  T;  "  '""";  ""^  ''^  '^  wel|.cons,ructed  road  through 
.  ' .  vn.e  I le  height  .s  two  hundred  and  ten  feet  above  the  sea.  The 
.  ond  ol  he  Ahnendral  is  also  occupied  by  the  wealthy  citizen. 
.  .w-  classes  hve  „,  ,he  ravines.  Many  of  their  habitations  a  o 
-i.cely  sulhcent  to  keep  then,  dry  during  the  rainy  season.  They 
a  o  bndt  ol  reeds,  plastered  with  mud.  and  thatched  wfth  straw.  T  ley 
seldom  contnm  more  than  one  ai,artment.  "^ 

on.^s'    T        7  '"'rn'''''     '"*''""  "^  ^'"  ^''^S-'^P^  -"^  ^heir 

■en   0";.,       "V    '"''  ""'  '"^  ^'"■^"  ^'^"'^''•«'^'')  '^^^-^^^  them, 

(o  COM  ,nn  a  large  proportion  of  the  worthless  population  of  both 

s'^xcs.     I  he  Icmales,  remarkable  for  their  black  eyes  and  red  "  bayettas  " 

22  :!n'r"'7  '"  "",^""""-'"-'  ^'-  ^'-^de,  and  commanilers ' of 
vc  els  and  eqnnlly  so  to  the  poor  sailors,  who  seldom  leave  this  port 
without  empty  pockets  and  injured  health.  ' 

It   was  dillicnlt  to  realize  tin,    in.provement   and  change  that  had 
.    -  Plnco  u.  the  habits  of  the  people,  and  the  advancem^eut  in  c  vH 
let  and  c.vd.zat.on.     On  ,ny  ll.rn.er  visit,  there  was  no  sort  o 
.1    j  .-e..  at,on,  or  good  govennnent.     Robbery,  murder,  and  vlc^ 
••'  ;  !I    Km.lH,  were   openly   couunifted.      The   exercise  of  arbitrary 
'...I.tary  power  a  one  existed.     ^^.,  only  with  the  natives,  but       "  ' 
•■e.guors    gan.hng   and   knavery  of  the  lowest  order,  and  al    the 
'  -".-  -^'.^   elleets  that  acco.npauy  them,  prevailed.     Every  body 
■  .^..ged  m  trade  was  found  n.ore  or  less  to  l-ecognise  the  syLnZ 
"-'•   -Hi    clece.t  that  had  be-on^e  the  order  ofihe  day.     T  rde- 
m..rahzu,g  .nnuence  of  snu.ggling,  and  bribery  in  open  L,  without 

^      ht      f  tl-""        i'T'^'"  ""•'■"^^'^^'  "^^'"'•^"^  brought  abou; 
..^  state  of  thmgs;  and  the  inferen..e  was  drawn,  true  or  false,  that 
tl.ey  par„c,pated  in  the  profits  accruing  from  such  transactions. 

tnyselt  sa\v  on  my  former  visit  several  dead  bodies  exposed  in  the 


168 


CHILI. 


public  squares,  victims  of  the  cuchillo.  This  was  the  result  of  a  night's 
debauch,  and  the  fracas  attendant  upon  it.  No  other  punishment 
awaited  the  culprits  than  the  remorse  of  their  own  conscience. 

Now,  Valparaiso,  and  indeed  all  Chili,  shows  a  great  change  for 
the  better;  order  reigns  throughout;  crime  is  rarely  heard  of,  and 
never  goes  unpunished;  good  order  and  decorum  prevail  outwardly 
every  where ;  that  engine  of  good  government,  an  active  and  efficient 
police,  has  been  established.  It  is  admirably  regulated,  and  brought 
fully  into  action,  not  only  for  the  protection  of  life  and  property,  but  in 
adding  to  the  comforts  of  the  inhabitants. 

There  is  no  country  that  more  strongly  bears  the  impress  of  the 
working  of  a  master  spirit,  in  conjunction  with  a  desire  on  the  part  ol 
the  people  to  maintain  order  by  good  government,  than  Chili. 

The  civil  power  has  now  complete  ascendency  over  the  military, 
which  had  so  long  ruled  Chili  with  despotic  sway.  The  breaking 
down  of  the  latter  was  the  first  step  to  the  establishment  of  good 
order,  and  removed  the  spirit  of  disorganization  that  a  military 
ascendency  was  for  ever  producing.  Revolution  had  become  another 
word  in  the  army  for  promotion,  for  with  it,  every  officer  usually 
obtained  a  grade.  Each  officer  was  ever  ready  to  seek  self-aggran- 
dizement, whenever  he  could  create  a  party  in  his  favour ;  and  no 
opportunity  was  lost  in  bringing  about  dissatisfaction  at  the  mode  in 
which  the  existing  government  conducted  affiiirs. 

The  predominant  trait  of  the  Chilians,  when  compared  with  other 
South  Americans,  is  their  love  of  country  and  attachment  to  their 
homes.  This  feeling  is  common  to  all  classes.  There  is  also  a  groat 
feeling  of  independence  and  equality.  Public  opinion  has  weight  in 
directing  the  affairs  of  state.  The  people  are  fond  of  agricultural  pur- 
suits, and  the  lower  orders  much  better  disposed  towards  foreigners 
than  in  other  parts.  Schools  and  colleges  have  been  established"  and 
a  desire  to  extend  the  benefits  of  education  throughout  the  popu- 
lation is  evinced.  This  has  been  of  late  one  of  the  constant  aims  of 
government. 

The  credit  of  forming  this  police  is  given  to  Portales.  It  consists 
of  two  distinc,  bodies,  one  mounted,  the  other  on  foot.  The  watch- 
men carry  swords  only.  The  former  patrol  the  streets  on  horseback, 
while  the  latter  take  their  part:cular  walk  round  a  square  or  two,  foi 
which  they  arc  responsible.  A  message  may  be  sent  through  them  to 
the  farthest  end  of  the  city,  and  an  answer  returned,  in  fifteen  minutes. 
They  carry  a  loud  and  shrill  whistle,  the  sounds  of  which  are  varied 
as  occasion  requires,  and  by  it  a  concentration  of  force  can  be  effected 
in  a  few  moments.     The  notes  of  the  whistle  when  all  is  well,  are 


CHILI. 


169 


When  they  cry  the  hour  they  al!  sing  the  same  tune,  but  the  pitch 
IS  ranged  in  accordance  with  the  scope  of  the  voice.  The  manner  oi 
singing  the  hour  is  pleasing,  thus : 


r— 'S^ r-^5^ 


■eziiEm 


■f^ 


i 


80  -  re  -  na. 


Viva    Chi.Ii.     Viva    Chi  -  |i,    Ia«    diez    and  -  a*^     bo  .  re  -  na 
In  the  morning  they  add  to  it  a  prayer,  as  Jve  Maria  purissima  las 
cincoy  media.     The  music  does  not  differ  from  the  night-song,  but 
has  the  few  additional  notes  that  are  necessary. 

This  police  adds  greatly  to  the  comfort  as  well  as  to  the  safety  of 
the  inhabitants.  To  give  an  instance  of  its  effects,  apothecaries  are 
chosen  weekly  to  keep  their  shops  open  all  night,  and  in  case  of 
sickness  or  requiring  any  aid,  one  has  only  to  call  for  the  vigilante, 
who  takes  the  recipe  and  passes  it  to  the  next,  and  so  on  to  the  shoo, 
where  it  is  obtained,  and  returned  as  soon  as  possible,  withoul  any 
trouble  whatever.  They  have  their  particular  rounds,  and  each  door 
IS  obliged  to  have  a  padlock.  If  any  door  is  found  without  it,  they 
put  a  lock  on,  for  which  the  owner  has  to  pay  a  fine  of  four  dollars  to 
the  city  to  have  it  removed  ;  half  is  the  reward  of  the  vigilante 

A  complaint  during  our  stay  was  made  by  one  of  the  officers,  of 
exactions  made  by  a  policeman.  It  was  instantly  taken  notice  of,  and 
punished.  It  IS  to  be  regretted  that  this  police  should  still  wear  the 
military  uniform,  as  it  seems  unbecoming  in  a  republican  form  of 
government ;  at  least  we  thought  so. 

The  shops  are  well  filled  with  almost  all  articles  of  English,  Ameri- 
can and  French  manufticture.  The  markets  are  well  supplied.  There 
are  no  market-gardens  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Valparaiso,  and  nearly 
all  the  vegetables  arc  brought  from  the  valley  of  QuiUota,  about  sixteen 
miles  distant,  on  the  backs  of  mules,  in  panniers.  The  mode  of  bringing 
grass  or  clover  to  market  is  peculiar :  it  sometimes  almost  covers  both 
horse  and  rider.  The  supplies  are  abundant  and  of  excellent  quality 
consisting  of  all  kinds  of  fruits  and  vegetables,  &c.  The  prices  vary 
but  little  from  those  at  home;  beef,  for  instance,  costs  six  and  a  half- 
cents  per  pound. 

There  are  but  few  amusements.  Among  them  is  a  theatre,  which  is 
small  and  inconvenient,  and  the  chingano,  both  of  which  are  usually 
open  on  a  Sunday  evening. 

The  Chilians  are  extremely  fond  of  the  dance  called  Xh^  samacueca. 
VOL.  I.  p  22 


170 


CHILI. 


This  may  bo  callwl  tlio  nationiil  dance,  ind  is  in  vogue  among  tho 
common  people.  It  is  usually  performed  at  tho  chingano,  which  is  a 
kind  of  amphitheatre,  surrounded  by  apartments  where  .jfrcsiiiiiunts. 
including  strong  drinks,  are  sold,  and  is  generally  well  lilled  l)y  boili 
sexes.  The  dance  is  performed  on  a  kind  of  stage,  under  an  open 
shed.  The  music  is  a  mixture  of  Spanish  and  Indian,  and  is  performed 
altogether  by  females,  on  an  old-fashioned  lung  and  narrow  harp,  one 
end  of  which  rests  on  the  lap  of  the  performer,  and  the  other  on  tho 
stage,  ten  fi^et  oil".  A  second  girl  is  seen  merrily  beating  time  on  the 
soundi.'ig-boaia  of  the  instrument.  On  tho  rigiit  is  another,  strumming 
the  common  chords  on  a  wire-string  guitar  or  kitty,  making,  at  every 
vibration  of  the  right  hand,  a  full  sweep  across  all  the  strings,  and 
varying  the  chords.  Jn  addition  to  this,  they  sang  a  n  tional  love- 
song,  in  Spanish,  at  tho  top  of  <heir  voices,  one  singing  a  kind  of  alto; 
the  whole  producing  a  veiy  strange  combination  of  sou.ids. 

The  dance  is  performed  by  a  young  man  and  woman ;  the  former 

is  gaudily  deckud  in  a  light  scarlet  jacket,  embroidered  whh  gold  lace, 

white  pantaloons,  red  sash  and  pumps,  with  a  tiny  red  cap ;  whilst 

that  of  nis  partner  consists  of  a  gacdy  painted  muslin  dress,  quite  short 

and  stillly  starched,  not  a  little  aided  by  an  ample  pair  of  hips;  thrown 

over  all  is  a  rich-coloured  French  shawl ;  the.^e,  with  well-fitted  silk 

stockings,  complete  her  attire.    These  hist  are  in  truth  characteristic  (j( 

the  Chilian  women  of  all  classes,  and   they  take  no  pains  to  conceal 

them.     One  not  unfrequently  sees  the  exLavagance  of  silk  stockings 

in  the  washerwomen  at  their  tubs,  and  even  with  tlieir  hands  in  the 

suds.     The  dress  in  general  fits  neatly,  and  nature  is  not  distorted  by 

tight  lacing,  or  the  wearing  of  corsets      Nothing  is  worn  on  the  head, 

and  the  hair,  parted   and  equally  divided  from  the  forehead  back  to 

the  neck,  hangs  down  in  two  long  plaits  on  each  shoulder  to  tho 

waist. 

The  style  of  dancing  is  somewhat  like  a  fandango.  The  couple 
begin  by  facing  eacli  otlier  and  flirting  handkerchiefs  over  each  other's 
heads,  then  approaching, slowly  retreating  ag;iin,  then  quickly  shooting 
oft  to  one  side,  passing  under  arms  without  touching,  with  great 
agility,  rattling  and  beating  time  with  castanets.  Their  movements 
are  quite  graceful,  those  of  their  foet  pretty,  and  withal  ciuite  amorous ; 
the  gestures  may  be  readily  understood,  not  o.'ily  by  the  native 
audience,  but  by  foreigners.    I  cannot  suy  much  for  its  moral  tendency. 

The  higher  classes  of  females  have  tho  name  of  being  virtuous  and 
estimable  in  their  domestic  circle,  but  we  cannot  say  that  they  are 
beautiful.  They  dress  their  hair  with  great  cnre  and  taste.  Their 
feet  are  small,  and  they  have  a  graceful  carriage. 


CHILI. 


17 


The  French  fu.l.ion  o*-  dress  [.revails,  and  they  are  just  beginning 
to  wear  bonnets.  The  advancement  of  civilization  is  rapid;  the  ij. 
;at.on  of  foreign  habits  and  custou.s  will  soon  predominate  over  those 
of  Lhdi;  and  what  is  of  more  consequence,  sonie  attention  is  beinc 
paid  to  their  education.  * 

A  rather  singular  occurrence  took  place  at  a  review  of  the  militia 
on  the  Pb.anca,  one  Sunday,  by  the  President,  who  was  attended  by 
ms  daughter,  and  a  number  ofthe  most  respectable  ladies  of  the  place. 
If.ey  niarched  down  the  line,  and  afterwards  danced  with  the  oflicer. 
on  the  field,  ,n  the  presence  of  the  soldiers.  All  the  South  Americans 
are  inveterate  dancers,  the  Chilians  taking  the  lead.  The  taste  for 
music  IS  general,  but  although  they  have  a  number  of  notional  airs, 
fe^v  have  been  printed.  All  the  printed  music  in  common  use  is 
oreign,  as  are  the  instruments.  Pianos  are  to  be  seen  in  almost  every 
liouse. 

The  natives  have  a  fondness  for  flowers,  although  they  are  but  little 
cultivated.  Few  gardens  are  yet  to  be  seen  of  any  consequence. 
J  hey  require  constant  irrigation  the  most  of  the  year,  which  may 
uccoutit  for  this  want.  There  arc  two  in  the  Almendral.  surrounded 
by  high  walls,  and  kept  in  tolerable  order;  and  great  attention  is  pai.l 
in  these  to  foreign  plants. 

We  happened  to  be  at  Valparaiso  during  the  President's  visit, 
which,  connected  with  the  hxte  victory  and  successes  in  Peru,  caused 
much  rejoicing;  every  possible  attention  was  shown  to  the  Chief 
Magistrate,  by  both  natives  and  foreigners.  Among  others,  he  was 
taken  on  an  aquatic  excursion,  on  board  of  a  small  brigantine,  decked 
out  with  the  flags  of  all  nations,  and  was  accompanied  by  the  civil 
:iuthorities  of  Valparaiso,  the  English  admiral,  and  others.  On  pass- 
mg  the  men-of-war,  he  received  the  customary  salutes  from  all  but 
ourselves.  We  could  not  fire  the  guns  on  account  of  our  chronometer^. 
On  his  passing,  however,  the  rigging  was  manned,  and  we  gave  him 
several  hearty  cheers,  which,  it  was  said,  much  delighted  the  Presi- 
dent and  his  suite,  from  the  novelty  ofthe  compliment. 

Three  balls  were  given  during  the  stay  of  the  s<iuadron  here,  in 
consequence  of  the  visit  of  the  President  (General  Prieto) ;  one  in 
honour  ofthe  recent  victory  of  Yungai  over  the  Peruvians;  the  other, 
by  the  citizens  and  foreigners  to  his  Excellency.  As  the  former  was 
an  extraordinary  occasion,  a  description  of  it  will  give  some  insight 
into  the  manner  in  which  they  conduct  these  affiiirs  in  Chili.  All  three 
were  managed  in  a  manner  that  would  have  been  highly  creditable  in 
any  part  ofthe  world. 

The  place  selected  for  the  great  ball  was  between  the  walls  of  two 


173 


CHILI. 


Inrgc  unfinished  storehouses,  ii  space  of  one  liundied  nnd  fifty  feet  long 
by  ninety  wide,  over  which  temporary  arches  were  built,  the  whole 
covered  with  an  awning  lined  with  blue,  and  studded  with  stars,  from 
which  were  suspended  some  twenty  very  handsome  chandeliers.  The 
whole  was  carpeted,  and  the  various  pillars  which  supported  the  roof 
were  decorated  with  emblems  of  the  victory  and  nation.  At  the  end 
opposite  to  the  entrance  was  a  transparency  of  General  Bulnes,  the 
hero  of  Yungai,  surrounded  with  scrolls  of  his  deeds.  Along  the 
corridors  which  the  piazzas  formed,  ranges  of  sofas  and  seats  were 
placed;  on  the  walls  were  hung  rich  mirrors  and  paintings:  the  former 
rested  on  massive  pier-tables,  in  which  hundreds  of  lights  were  seen 
reflected,  whilst  the  graceful  festoons  of  the  national  flags  and  pennants 
formed  into  draperies,  intermixed  with  wreaths  of  flowers  and  ever- 
greens in  endless  variety,  encircling  emblematic  designs  of  the  nation's 
glory,  produced  an  eflect  not  easily  surpassed.  The  reception-room 
of  the  President  was  hung  with  scarlet  tapestry,  decorated  with 
paintings,  mirrors,  and  pier-tables,  and  brilliantly  lighted  with  chande- 
liers, &c. 

There  were  likewise  card-rooms,  smoking-rooms,  supper-rooms, 
and  a  dressing-room  for  the  ladies,  in  which  were  a  number  of  hair- 
drossors  and  mantua-makers  constantly  in  attendance.  The  whole 
was  well  got  up,  unique,  and  truly  splendid;  all  Valparaiso  had  sent 
furniture  of  every  kind,  and  oven  the  churches  had  contributed  to  assist 
in  the  great  gala  fete  in  commemoration  of  the  national  victory. 

Tlic  company  consisted  of  about  five  hundred,  one-third  of  whom 
were  females.  Many  costly  uniforms,  of  various  patterns,  and  not  a 
liltlo  far.oiful,  added  to  the  brilliancy  of  the  scene. 

About  ten  o'clock,  the  ball  was  opened  by  the  President,  Don  Joaquim 
Prieto,  in  person,  a  novel  sight  to  us.  lie  was  dressed  in  a  richly  em- 
broidered coat,  gold  epaulettes,  and  field-marshal's  sash.  lie  danced 
a  minuet  with  a  lady  of  Valparaiso,  whom  he  had  especially  selected, 
after  which  the  dancing  became  general,  consisting  of  quadrilles, 
country-dances,  and  waltzes,  besides  which  they  had  the  lascivious 
dances  of  samacueca,  cachuca,  and  lordean.  These  partake  somewhat 
of  the  bolero  and  fandango,  or  Spanish  and  African  dance. 

By  way  of  interlude,  marches  and  national  airs  were  played  and 
sung.  The  ball  did  not  break  up  until  eight  o'clock  next  morning,  at 
which  hour  the  President  and  his  daughter  were  escorted  home  by  a 
procession  of  the  dancers,  with  the  music  playing  national  airs,  forming 
rather  a  grotesque  show  to  the  bystanders,  from  the  interchange  of 
hats  and  outer  garments  that  had  taken  place. 

On  reaching  General  Prieto's  quarters,  they  .^ang  a  national  hymn, 


CHILI. 


173 


uDt'l  iToon '^  """"^  '^'''''  """'"'* '"'  '^'"'''''  "'^^ ''«'''"  continued  dancing 

I  should  not  omit  to  mention  that  after  midnight  the  ladies  under- 
went a  second  operation  of  the  toilet. 

The  whole  equalled,  if  it  did  not  surpass,  any  of  our  own  fetes  at 
home;  indeed  all  who  attended  were  much  surprised,  having  little  idea 
that  Valparaiso  could  have  made  so  brilliant  and  tasteful  a  display  of 
beauty  and  magnificence.  *    ' 


TAKUM  QRAga  TO  MAAKBT. 


Ptt 


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BAC 


CHAPTER  X. 


CONTENTS. 

JOURNEY  INTO  THE  INTERIOR-BILOCHES-TRAVELLING-CASA  BLANCA-GEOLOGI 
CAL  FORMATION-CURACOVI-IIEIGIIT  ABOVE  THE  SEA-CUESTA  DE  ZAPATA-CUESTA 
DEL  PRADO-ROAD3-TUANSPORTATION  OP  GOODS -BEGGARS -PLAIN  OP  MAYPO  - 
CORDILLERAS  -  ST.  JAGO  -  MINT  -  LIBRARY  -  AMUSEMENTS  -  FASHIONS-MARKET  - 
CLIMATE-EXCURSION  TO  THE  CORDILLERAS-MOU.,  i  AIN  SCENERY-SNOW-GUANA- 
COES  -  HEAT -RETURN  TO  ST.  JAGO  -  MA YPOrHO  -  JOURNEY  TO  SAN  FELIPE - 
aUILLOTA-TUPONGATI  PEAK- DIKES -EVANGELISTO  CELIDONO  -  FARM-HOUSE - 
CATCHING  WILD  HORSES -RANCHO- ENTERTAINMENT -ARRIVAL  AT  SAN  FELIPE 
DE  ACONCAGUA-MR.  NEWMAN'S-MR.  CHASE-TOWN  OP  SAN  FELIPE -CHICHA  AND 
AGUARDIENTE -THEIR  MANUFACTURE- AGRICULTURAL  IMPLEMENTS  -  VISIT  THE 
COPPER  MINES-MODES  OF  WORKING  THEM-THEIR  SITUATION-TRANSPORT  ■TION 
OF  ORES-WAGES-TEMPERANCE  REGULATIONS-LAKE  ON  THE  HIGH  CORDILLERAS- 
COPPER  ORES-RETURN  TO  SAN  FELIPE-KINDNESS  OP  MR.  NEWMAN  AND  LADY- 
CELIDONO-aUILLOTA- RETURN  TO  VALPARAISO -EARTHaUAKES- PROTESTANT 
CHURCH  —  LIBERALITY  OF  PRIESTHOOD-ORACION-COMMERCE-EXPORTS  -  IMPORTS 
-  FOREIGN  VESSELS  -  POPULATION  -  COLLEGES  -  CONGRESS  -  IMPROVEMENTS  IN 
PROGRESS  —  REVENUE  -  NATIONAL  DEBT  -  CLIMATE  -  FRUITS  -  ADMINISTRATION  - 
EXECUTIVE-SENATE-HOUSE  OP  DEPUTIES-MILITIA-ARMY-NAVY-G.  G.  HOBSON, 
ESa.,  U.  S.  CONSUL-LIEUTENANT  CRAVEN-IIIS  GALLANT  CONDUCT-CAPTAIN  ISAAC 
M'KEEVER-U.  S.  SHIP  FALMOUTH-FLYINGFISH-GALE-SEAGULL  LAST  SEEN-HER 
LOSS-PASSED  MIDSHIPMAN  JAMES  W.  E.  REID-PASSED  MIDSHIPMAN  FREDERICK  A. 
BACON-ADMINISTRATION  OF  GOVERNMENT  OF  CHILI. 


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VOL, 


CHAPTER    X. 

CHILI  — CONTINUED. 


1839. 

Previous  to  my  arrival  at  Valparaiso,  the  naturalists  and  some 
0  Rce  s  on  board  the  Peacock  and  Relief  had  made  excursions  in^o 
the  mtenor  C.  my  arrival.  I  allowed  all  those  .vho  could  be  spa  ed 
and  were  desirous  of  visiting  Santiago,  sufficient  leave  to  make  the 
np.  .Several  set  out  for  that  city,  and  some  with  a  view  of  emending 
their  journey  to  the  Cordilleras  beyond.  «xienaing 

The  bilocheros  were  eager  for  opportunities  to  hire  their  biloches 
a  vehicle  somewhat  resembling  a  double  gig,  which  is  generally  used 
for  travelling  in  Chili.  They  have  a  most  rickety  !nd  worn-out 
appearance;  almost  every  part  appears  mended  with  cords  made  of 
hide.     They  accommodate   two   passengers;   and  the  time  required 

iZZ\J  'TT"t  ?'  "^^  ^'^"^'^e°>'  '«  ^bout  eighteen  or 
twenty  hours.  In  the  shafts  a  horse  is  put;  a  postilion  ridts  one  on 
the  left  and  sometimes  another  is  placed  on  the  right,  both  being 
.stened  to  the  veh  cle  by  lassos  of  raw-hide  procefdi^g  from  hf 
addle.  Each  vehicle  is  attended  by  three  bilocheros  or  drivers,  ^^Jth 
a  drove  of  twelve  or  fifteen  horses,  forming  quite  a  cavalcade. 

Ihe  bilocheros  are  very  expert  at  their  business.  They  are  excellent 
.-.dors,  having  beer  brought  up  to  this  exercise  from  their  in  ancy^ 
nndcrstand  managing  their  horses,  though  in  a  rude  way  Tl^t 
horses  are  small,  but  spirited,  and  bear  fatigue  well.  Their  usul 
speed  IS  about  nine  or  ten  miles  an  hour.  Fet  equipages  ca"  com 
S  "'l^,/'^-;, --y --hines,  driven,  as  they  sometimes  a",  pel 
mell  up  hill  and  down  dale,  with  all  their  acco,;paniments  of  h^rse 

w ;:: :  thf  • '  f '  '""^t  r  ^"^"  -•""—  ^«  ^^^  -  ^'o  o 

expectation  of  a  break-down,  and  a  broken  neck  or  limbs.     It  is  a 


VOL.  h 


23 


(177) 


178 


V.  u  I  I.  1. 


<liHiciiIt  niiitlor  to  :ic<iiiiro  (lomposurc,  on  seeing  the  numerous  tem- 
porary IfisIiiiifTs,  friving  ocular  proof  tliat  aecidents  have  I.een  freciuent. 
Iiowcver  well  salis(i(!.l  one   may  bo  with  tlie  skill  of  the  condu.^tor' 
Fortunately  the  road  is  excellent,  though  at  this  season  (May)  it  is 
divested  of  much  of  its  beauty  from  the  want  of  vegetation.     Tiic  inti;- 
rest  is,  however,  carried  forward  to  the  lofty  peaks  of  the  Andes,  of 
whose  snu)mits  occasional  glimpses  are  had  ;  and  the  eye  glances  (.ver 
the  sm-rounding  scenery  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood,  that  would 
elsewhere  be  deemed  grand,  to  rest  on  some  high  and  towering  peak. 
Among  these  the  peak  of  Tupongati  is  the  most  noted,  ranking,  since 
the  measurement  of  King,  as  next  in  height  to  the  Ilimmaleh  mountains. 
^  The  first  stopping-place  is  at  Casa  Blanoa,  a  small  pueblo  of  sonu- 
five  hundred  inhabitants,  where  travellers  usually  sleep.     The  accom- 
modations were  good,  having  been  recently  much  improved.     In  the 
neighbourhood  is  the  only  tract  of  woodland  to  be  found  in  this  part 
of  the  country.     The  elevation  of  Casa  Blanca,  about   thirty  miles 
from  Valparaiso,  is  five  hundred  and  ninety-eight  feet  about  the  level 
of  the  sea.     The  primitive  district  extends  about  fifty  miles  from  the 
coast,  and  of  course  is  found  here.     It  is  composed  chiefly  of  gneiss. 
which   is   generally  easily  decomposed.     The   mountains,   in   (Tonse-' 
.]uence,  are  not  nigged,  but  of  an  easy  ascent,  and  mural  precipices 
are  not  met  with.     The  gneiss  was  in  some  places  ob.servcd  to  pas. 
into  hornblende  rock,  resembling  the  trachvfic  or  igneous  greenstone 
It  contains  abundance  of  diffused  epidotc,  and  among  the  minerals 
schorl  was  observed,  but  no  garnets  were  found. 

The  road  from  (^asa  Blanca  next  passes  through  Curacovi,  a  small 
puoblo,  three  hundred  and  forty-four  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
where  the  trap  rock  first  makes  its  appearance,  and  then  over  a  h\X 
ridge,  called  the  Cnesta  de  Zapata.  This  terminates  the  first  pla'iii 
anil  divides  it  from  the  second,  of  similar  character,  which  extends  to 
the  Cucsta  del  Pra.lo.  It  is  passed  over  by  a  zigzag  road,  and  was 
found  to  be  two  thousand  three  hundred  and  ninety-four  feet  hi-'h 
On  reaching  the  top,  the  view  that  presents  it.self  is  extensive  ami 
magnificent. 

In  front  is  the  extensive  plain  of  Mavpo,  with  here  and  there  a  conical 
mountain  standing  alone  on  it.  At  the  extremity  of  the  plain  rise  the 
lofty  peaks  of  the  Andes,  covered  with  eternal'snow,  some  reaching 
above  the  clouds.  They  appear  but  a  few  hours'  ride  off,  alth.^u-h  a"^ 
a  distance  of  twenty  leagues.  On  either  side  rise  the  high  rid^res  of 
the  Cuesta.  Beneath  lie  grazing  grounds,  extending  over  lhe°plain 
and  covered  with  flocks  and  herds.  Variety  and  life  are  criven  to  the 
whole  by  the  view  of  the  national  road,  on  which  are  seen  numbers  of 


CH  II   1 


170 


.  do,  l.,dc  ,  w  II,  forc,g„  and  domcslic  products.     This  is  tl,»  only  road 
d  any  exlct  for  ^vl,cc|.ca^riagcs  in  ,he  country.     It  is  kept  i,f  goli 

prison  o,    lock-up  house,  somewhat  resembling  the   cases  used  in 
caravans  of  ,vild  beasts,  is  used  for  their  accommodation  fnd  scctty 

The  Iieavy  rnerohandise  is  for  the  most  part  transported  in  ox-carts 
0  enormoas  du.cns.ons.     Their  wheels  are  clumsy  and  without  tires, 
a.d  the  whoo  fra,ne  is  made  strongly  with  timber  pinned  together 
Then-  perpendicular  Mdes  and  rounded  tops  are  wattled  with  cane  and 
overed  with  bu  I's  h,  e.     No  iron  is  used  in  their  structure;  wooden 
pins  and  raw-lude  lashings  seen,  to  answer  the  purpose  better      The 
yoke  .s  set  on  the  heads  of  the  oxen,  behind  the  horns,  and  fastened  to 
l.em.     The  creaking  of  these  carts  may  be  heard  for  miles,  as  the 
drivers  never  think  of  greasing  the  axles  to  lessen  the  friction      The- 
are  generally  drawn  by  fo..  or  eight  oxen.     The  wood-cut.  at  the  end 
of  this  chapter,  from  .  sketch  taken  by  Mr.  Drayton,  will  complete  the 
(loscnption.  ^ 

Lighter  articles  are  transported  by  mule.s.  nnd  immense  numbers  of 
tliese  animals  are  seen  on  the  road  at  all  times. 


ISO 


CHILI. 


The  mode  of  changing  horses  is  truly  characteristic  of  the  country 
The  relays  are  made  as  soon  as  the  sliaft-horse  tires ;  he  is  quicklv 
taken  out,  and  one  of  the  drove  caught  with  a  lasso,  and  put  in  his 
place,  when  on  they  go.  These  relays  occur  every  eight  or  ten. miles: 
the  only  relief  the  poor  horses  have  is  a  trot  out  of  harness,  and  without 
a  loud.  The  bilocheros  seldom  dismount ;  all  is  done  on  horseback. 
On  going  up  hill,  a  third  or  even  a  fourth  horse  is  soon  hitched  to  the 
vehicle  to  assist  the  draught.  The  horses  are  all  in  good  condition, 
and  it  is  not  a  little  remarkable  that  they  should  be  so,  for  I  understood 
that  their  only  food  at  this  season  was  chopped  straw.  The  teamsters 
and  Guachos  themselves  are  equally  abstemious.  They  live  mostly 
upon  bread  and  their  favourite  chicha,  which  is  made  from  the  grape, 
and  resembles  cider ;  but  after  it  has  passed  through  a  fermentation,  it 
is  quite  intoxicating.  The  mud  huts  or  ranchos.  on  the  road-side,  are 
iilicd  with  happy  and  contented  faces. 


peasant's  house. 

Begging  is  common  on  the  road  to  the  city,  and  is  quite  a  business. 
The  beggars  let  themselves  to  the  highest  bidders,  and  value  themselves 
according  to  their  deformities.  At  Valparaiso  two  days  are  allowed 
in  each  weclc  for  begging. 

The  plain  of  Maypo,  which  reaches  to  the  foot  of  the  Cuesta  del 
Prado,  is  extremely  level,  and  is  almost  thirty  miles  in  width,  extending 
to  the  foot  of  the  Cordilleras.  The  road  leads  nearly  in  a  straight  line 
over  it  to  the  city  of  Santiago,  which  is  situated  on  the  eastern  side  of 
the  plain. 

The  elevation  of  Santiago  above  the  sea  is  fifteen  hundred  and 
ninety-one  feet,  upon  the  third  step  or  plain  from  the  coast.  Its  entrance 
is  through  avenues  bounded  by  high  adobe  walls,  which  shut  out  all  the 
view,  except  the  Cordilleras,  which  tower  above  and  beyond  it. 

The  more  the  Cordilleras  are  vi(Hved,  the  greater  appears  their 
attraction.  They  have  at  all  times  an  imposiii<;  aspect  from  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  city.  Their  irregular  and  jugged  outline  is  con- 
stantly varying  under  the  efiects  of  light  and  shade.  The  rays  of  the 
setting  sun,  -vith  the  deepening  shadows,  throw  the  innumerable  peaks 


CHILI 


18) 


a  ?p!  Vt^"    '  r    "' '''"''  P''^'^"^"  y«"«^  «"d  red  tints,  which  give 
a    emarkable  character  to  the  whole  scene.     The  red  tints  are  often 

manvTe"  o rtr   .  '  ''T  '"'  "  '''  ^'^^^^     '^'^^  ^'^^  '^  -rounded  b^ 
many  fine  orchards,  gardens,  larms,  and  grazing  grounds    The  formo,- 

be.ng  enclosed  by  high   adobe  walls,  'give  if  f  ath^v  unpf:  s.  t 

appeara.K.e  unti    the  city  is  fairly  entered,  when  the  st  ee  s  W  ' 

fresh  and  clean  look.     The  city  is  laid  out  iu  squares.     Its  streets  are 

well  paved,  and  have  good  sidewalks.     This  fresh  and  clean  apnea 

to  whitewash  their  houses  and  walls  once  a  year,  a  practice  whiH 
grves  a  general  uniformity,  at  least  in  colour,  to  th;  wh   e     nd  fo t 
an  agreeable  contrast  with  the  red-tiled  roofs.    The  houses  are  n^X 
of  one  story,  bu.lt  m  the  form  of  a  hollow  square,  from  twenty  to  for  - 

as  to  form  a  kind  of  piazza  or  covered-way.     The  gateway  is  usuallv 
large,  and  the  rooms  on  each  side  of  it  are  not  connfcted  w'th  the  rt^ 
of  the  building  but  are  rented  as  shops.    Opposite  to  the  gatewir 
he  centre  window   giiarded  by  a  light  and  ornamental  ifon  7Lo 
pa  nted  green  or  richly  gilt.     The  court-yard  is  usually  neatly  pred 
th  small  rounded  pebbles  from  the  bed  of  the  Maypocho,  arranged 
ciful  iorms;  but  in  many  cases  they  are  laid  oufin  floUr-garden 
where  roses  and  geraniums  are  seen  in  full  bloom.  ^ 

Ihc  river   Maypocho  runs  through  one  portion  of  the  city    and 
supplies  It  with  water,  which  is  conducted  through  all  the  prfn'cip^ 
treet     assisting  much  in  preserving  their  cleanliness,  thougi  not  s  'ffi 
cien    to  supersede  the  necessity  of  scavengers.     In  the  cLre  of  the 
city  IS  te  great  Plaza,  where  the  public  buifdings  are  si  u  ted      Th 
a  e  b,.,t  of  a  coarse  k  nd  of  porphyry,  obtained  from  the  moun  at' 
and  are  on  a  large  scale.     The  cathedral  and  palace  each  occup™ 
side:  in  the  centre  is  a  fountain,  with  several  statues  of  Italian  marble  ■ 
b     which  is  entn-eV  too  small  to  have  any  effect  in  so  large  a  sq  a- 
All  these  buildings  are  much  out  of  repair,  havin-.  been  at  vlTn  !=" 
times  damaged  by  earthquakes.  "  '^^"*'"' 

The  cathedral  is  very  large  and  extensive.     Its  altar  is  decked  with 
a  great  quantity  of  gold  and  silver.     There  are  many  paintings  Id 

b  efltnTl     '''  '  ^  '^'''  """'^^  ''  trophiLf  which  ha 
been  taken    n   their    various  wars,  and    are   here  preserved       The 

n-ches  are  filled  with  wax  figures,  representing  saints ;  and  there  a 
a^so    he  remains  of  two  martyrs  of  the  church,  in  a  tolerably  go  . 
stall ;  of  preservation.  ^  ° 

The  palace  was  originally  built  for  the  Viceroy.     It  is  now  appro- 
priated to  the  accommodation  of  the  President,  alid  the  pubZ  offices 


182 


CHILI. 


(^)n  the  sifle  opposite  to  the  pahce  is  a  colonnade,  which  is  not  yet 
firiished,  and  will  occupy  the  whole  side  of  the  square.  Ur.der  its 
[)ortico  are  fancy  and  dry-goods  shops,  and  between  the  columns 
various  trades,  or  lace  and  fringe-makers  are  at  work.  In  the  even- 
ing, this  becomes  a  most  busy  scene.  Females,  with  large  flat  baskets 
before  them,  are  vending  shoes,  fruit,  and  Rincy  articles ;  others  arc 
employed  in  cooking  cakes,  and  the  whole  lighted  up  as  it  is  with 
numerous  candles,  affords  much  amusement  to  the  stranger,  besides 
giving  him  an  opportunity  to  see  a  large  number  of  the  inhabitants. 
The  greater  part  of  those  present  are  females. 

The  mint  occupies  a  whole  s(]uare  ;  it  has  never  yet  been  completed, 
and  has  also  suffered  greatly  from  earthquakes.  The  operation  of' 
coining  is  in  the  rudest  and  oldest  form,  the  same  as  practised  in 
Europe  in  the  last  century.  The  rolling  and  cutting  are  done  by 
mule-power,  and  the  oldest  kind  of  fly-press,  with  a  great  screw  beam', 
having  enormous  balls  at  the  end,  is  used.  The  dies  they  use  are 
made  from  the  male  die,  in  the  same  way  as  with  us,  but  they  have 
not  the  same  facilities,  and  want  the  modern  improvements  in  the  pro- 
cess. A  toggle-jointed  press  was  imported  from  France;  but  it  was 
soon  put  out  of  order  by  the  workmen,  and  there  being  no  one  to 
repair  it,  its  use  has  been  abandoned. 

The  library  is  extensive,  containing  several  thousand  volumes, 
which  formerly  belonged  to  the  Jesuits,  and  many  curious  manuscripts 
relating  to  the  Indians. 

The   amusements  are  not  very  remarkable.      Santiago,  however, 
boasts  of  a  theatre,  and  a  chingano.     There  appears  to  be  little  busi- 
ncss  doing,  and  it  may  be  called  a  quiet  city.     The  siesta  is  daily 
indulged  in ;  even  the  shops  were  shut  in  the  afternoon,  and  the  city  i's 
as  quiet  as  midnight.     Towards  the  cool  of  the  even'  ig,  the  Alameda 
is  resorted  to.     It  is  a  beautiful  walk,  about  a  mile  in  extent,  well 
shaded,  and  occupies  one  bank  of  the  river.      It  is  planted  with  a 
double  row  of  poplar  trees,  which  seem  to  thrive  well  here.     Streams 
of  water  are  constantly  running  on  each  side  of  the  walk.     Every  few 
yards  stone  seats  are  place "    whicli  are  at  times  filled  with  a  well- 
dressed  population.      The  Alameda  affords  at  all  times  a  cool   and 
]iloasant  promenade. 

The  evenings  are  generally  pas.^ed  at  tertulias,  in  visiting  socially, 
or  in  shopping  in  the  colonnade.  The  inhabitants  are  much  addicted 
to  gambling.  Monte  is  the  game  with  tlie  higher  classes,  whilst  that 
of  match-penny  is  the  favourite  of  tlie  lower  orders.  The  Chilian 
ladies  are  remarkable  for  their  ease  of  manner,  kindness,  and  attention 
to  strangers.     They  are  fond  of  diversions  of  any  kind,  but  more 


CHILI. 


183 


practised.     Ihey  seem  extravagantly  loud  of  music.     Danclnfi  they 

uould  be  called  .lu.te  pretty;  but  their  teeth  are  generally  defective, 
which  causes  them  soon  to  look  old.  Their  costume  varies  little  from 
our  own,  except  that  the  ladies  wear  no  bonnets. 

The  gentlemen  follow  the  European  fashions. 

The  dress  of  the  lower  order  is  a  mixture  of  Spanish  and  Indian. 
Ihcy  are  fond  of  bright  colours.  Over  their  shirt  and  trousers  is  worn 
a  blue  or  brown  poncha.  A  high-crowned  and  small-rimmed  hat.  tied 
<.n  under  the  chin,  over  a  bright  cotton  handkerchief  on  the  head 
com,,letes  their  outfit.  They  are  a  well-disposed  people,  and  good 
utizens  aiid  have  more  the  air  of  contentment  than  any  other  nftion 
01  bouth  America. 


*.*«,* -r  ' 


banks  of  the  Maypocho.  It  covers  an  area  of  four  or  five  acres,  and 
IS  surrounded  by  a  low  building,  with  a  tile  roof,  supported  by  columns, 
under  which  meats  of  all  kinds  are  sold.  The  centre  is  reserved  for 
vegetables,  fruits,  flowers,  poultry,  and  small-wares.  The  market- 
women  are  seen  seated  under  awnings,  screens,  and  large  umbrellas, 
which  are  used  to  keep  off  the  sun. 


184 


C  H  I  M. 


The  whole  is  kept  quite  rlcan,  and  has  a  pretty  eflect.  Fruit  ana 
vegetables  are  a!)i.ii.Iant  and  cheap.  They  are  of  excellent  quality. 
The  grapr  ui^f  ,.i;n(;nc^  are  of  the  finest  kind;  apples  are  also  plenty. 
but  no  care  n[  poarj  to  have  been  taken  to  secure  the  best  kinds 
Cabbages,  beets,  potatoes,  cauliflower,  «tec.,  are  all  large  and  good. 

Boof  is  proverbially  fine,  and  also  the  mutton :  the  prices  are  six  and 
a  quarter  cents  for  the  former,  the  latter  three  cents  per  pound. 

The  average  price  of  a  horse  is  twelve  dollars,  but  some  that  are 
well  broken  are  valued  as  high  as  iho^ie  in  the  United  Slates. 

The  climate  of  Chili  is  justly  celebrated  throughout  the  world,  and 
that  of  Santiago  is  deemed  delightful  even  in  Chili ;  the  temperatun^  is 
usually  between  00'  and  75^.     Notwithstanding  this,  it  has  its  Auilts. 
It  IS  extremely  arid,  and  were  it  net  for  its  mountain  streams,  which 
aflord  the  means  of  irrigation,  the  country  would  be  a  barren  waste  for 
two-tlunls  of  the  year.     Rains  fall  only  during  the  winter  months, 
(June  tu  September,)  and  after  they  have  occurred,  the  whole  countrv 
IS   decked   with   flowers.     The   rains   often   last    several    days,   are 
excessively  heavy,  and  during  their  continuance  the  rivers  become 
impassable  torrents.    The  temperature  near  the  coast  does  not  desctuul 
below  58°.     The  mean  temperature,  .leduced  from  the  register  kept  at 
Valparaiso,  gave  03°.     At  Santiago,  the  climate  is  drier  and  colder, 
but  snow  rarely  falls.     On  the  ascent  of  the  Cordilleras,  the  aridity 
increases  with  the  cold.     The  snow  %\  as  found  much  in  the  same  state 
as  at  Terra  del  Fuego,  lying  in  patches  about  the  summits.     Even  the 
high  peak  of  Tupongati  was  bare  in  places,  and  to  judge  from  appear- 
ances. It  seldom  rains  in  the  highest  regions  of  the  Cordilleras,  to  which 
cause  may  be  imputed  the  absence  of  glaciers. 

Several  of  our  gentlemen  made  an  excursion  to  the  Cordilleras,  in 
order  to  get  information  in  their  various  departnu^nts.  I  regretted 
they  were  not  provided  with  the  necessary  instruments  for  ascerrainin-r 
heights.  The  party  left  Santiago  in  bilochcs,  and  travelled  to  the 
eastward  five  leagues,  to  the  «  Snow  Bank"  from  which  the  city  is 
supplied.  The  ascent  was  gradual,  but  quite  constant,  as  no  intervenin<T 
ravines  occurred.  They  then  took  horses,  leavincr  their  bilochcs  to 
return.  Their  route  after  this  lay  up  a  valley.  On  the  surmundin- 
heights  the  guanacoes  were  seen  in  great  numbers.  On  rcachino-  the 
head  of  the  valley,  one  of  the  party  became  so  unwell  that  he°w.is 
unable  to  proceed,  anii  was  obliged  to  return. 

Dr.  Pickering,  Messrs.  Dana,  Peale,  and  Drayton,  went  on.  As- 
they  proceeded  they  found  the  middle  region  was  marked  bv  spinv 
plants,  principally  Burnadesia.  The  soil  was  found  to  be  a  mixtmv 
of  loose  earth  and  pieces  of  rock.     On  rising  higher,  the  ve<retatir., 


CHILI. 


189 


became  almost  wholly  extinct.  Places  occurrod  of  an  eighth  of  a 
m.le  m  breadth,  dcstitn.c  of  verdure  of  any  kind.  The  frty  uln 
ascended  a  rulgo  he|..ngi„g  to  ,|,o  u.ain  body  of  the  Cordille  rsand 

nererr;;.:' '''"-;  '^"  '--^^' ^-''"°y reached'^:;.:' . 

Here  they  had  an  extensive  v  evv  of  all  the  li....  nf  fl.«  c^  i 

That   r.e  'p  .•  '""  ^'  '''®  snow  peaks. 

Ihat  of  lupongat.  appeared  the  most  conspicuous,  allhoucd.  at  a 
dtstanee  of  e.ghty  miles.  The  guide  asserte<l  that  he  could  see  smlkc 
.  sutng  from  .ts  volcano  in  a  faint  streak,  but  it  was  beyond  the  vTs  on 

arp-Xr^The^'^  ''''   '1' '^''^  '''  '''-^  «'  '^  -«     »U 
sMarp-pointed.      The   scene   immediately  around   them   was   one   of 

grandeur   and   desolation:    mountain    after   mountain,   separated    bv 

immense  chasms,  to  the  depth  of  thousands  of  fee  .  and  the    ides 

broken  in  the  most  fantastic  fl,rn.s  imaginable.     In  the  o   1  fr  par 

of  the  Cordilleras  they  found  a  large  admixture  of  the  jaspery  a  ulinou 

•         1  °1°    mabscs.      irachytic    breccia    was  observed    in 

various  places.    The  porphyry  is  of  a  dull  purple  colour,  rat  c-      ght 

l>an  the  red  sandstone  of  the  United  States.     No  traces  of  ce^uhr 

ava  were  seen,  nor  of  other  more  recent  volcanic  .X     ns    t 

Innestone  was  seen  in  the  regions  traversed  by  ou     partie      all  ^e 

l..ne  used   at    Santiago    is   obtained  from  sea-Lls;    nor  ^Ure   any 

proper  sedimentary  rocks  seen.  ^ 

Nothing  could   be  more  striking   than   the   complete   silence  that 

reigired  every  where;  not  a  living  thing  appeared  to  their  view 

After  spending  some  time  on  the  top.  they  began  their  descent  •  and 
after   two  hours'  hard    travelling  they  reached   the   snow    ine'     n 
passed   he  night  very  comfortably  in  the  open  air.  Wfth  their  blanket 
and  pillions,  or  saddle  cloths.     Fuel  for  a  fire  they  unexpectedly  found 
n  abundance:  the  Alpinia  umbellifera  answering  admirably  for Zl 
purpose,  from  the  quantity  of  resinous  matter  it  contains.     Near  the!^ 
camp  was  the  bank  of  snow  befor.  spoken  of.  from  which  the  citv 
has  been  supplied   for  many  years.     It  covers  several   acres.     Si 
snow  Ime  here  seemed  to  have  remained  constant,  and  would  hove 
afforded  a  fine  opportunity  to  have  verified  the  rule  of  Humboldt,  but 
ey  had  no  instruments.    The  height  they  had  ascended  was  supp^sH 
I  have  been  about  eleven  thousand  feet,  and  the  (.^ordilleras  oppo  . 
hem  about  four  thousand  feet  higher.     The  view  of  the  mass  of  the 
(  ord.  eras,  in  its  general  outline,  was  not  unlike  those  of  Mont  Blanc 
and  other  mountains  in  Switzerland. 

Mr.  Penle  went  in  search  of  the  guanncoes,  and  succeeded  in  killing 
.>ne  nine  feet  ,n  length  and  fnur  feet  in  height.     Thev  were  found  tr. 
VOL.  I.  Hi  24 


186 


C  U  1  L  I. 


frequent  only  the  most  iniiocoHsible  summits,  ami  are  said  never  to 
leave  the  vicinity  of  the  snow.  They  feed  upon  several  small  thorny 
bushes,  which  impart  a  flavour  to  their  llesh,  and  a  smell  to  their 
excrement  that  may  be  distinguished  at  some  distance  from  their 
places  of  resort.  They  make  a  peculiar  sound  when  alarmed,  liite 
that  of  the  katydid,  (Gryllus.)  This  animal  is  never  hunted  for  Ihe 
market,  though  its  flesh  is  good.  The  Bezoar  is  often  found  in  its 
stomach,  and  is  highly  prized  among  the  natives  and  Spaniards  as  a 
remedy  for  various  complaints.     It  is  also  used  as  a  gum. 

All  the  party  siidered  greatly  from  the  heat  of  the  sun's  rays,  and 
the  dryness  of  the  atmosphere.  Their  faces  and  hands  were  blistered, 
and  the  nose  and  lips  made  exceedingly  sore,  while  the  reflection  of 
Ihe  light  from  the  snow  caused  a  painful  sensation  to  tlie  eyes. 

The  n(!xt  day  tliey  reached  Santiago,  whence  they  returned  to  the 
Port,  as  Valparaiso  is  usually  distinguished  in  the  country. 

Over  the  Maypocho  at  Santiago  there  is  a  substantial  stone  bridge, 
with  five  arches.  For  nine  months  of  almost  every  year,  the  bed  "of 
the  stream  is  nearly  dry.  At  the  time  of  our  visit  it  was  about  two 
yards  wide  and  several  inches  deep;  but  in  the  winter  and  spring, 
during  the  melting  of  the  snows,  it  becomes  quite  a  torrent,  and  from 
the  damage  that  has  been  done  in  former  times,  they  have  taken  the 
precaution  to  wall  it  in  on  the  side  of  the  city,  towards  the  Cordilleras, 
for  several  miles,  with  stone  and  hard  brick.  When  swollen  it  is  a 
(juarter  of  a  mile  wide,  rapid  and  deep,  and  would  cut  ofl'the  commu- 
nication  with  the  surrounding  country  were  it  not  for  the  bridge. 

Messrs.  Couthouy  and  Dana  were  desirous  of  making  a  trip  to  the 
copper  mines  of  San  Felipe,  to  which  I  readily  consented,  and  gave 
them  all  the  tfhe  possible.  Although  this  was  short,  yet  by  their 
indefatigable  industry  it  aflbrded  some  interesting  results.  They  left 
Valparaiso  on  the  17th  for  San  Felipe,  which  is  about  one  hundred 
miles  north  of  Valparaiso.  They  were  to  have  taken  a  barometer 
with  them  in  case  of  ascending  some  heights,  but  it  was  forgotten. 

These  gentlemen  took  a  biloche  as  far  as  Quillota,  a  distance  of 
forty  miles,  and  proceeded  thence  to  San  Felipe  on  horses;  for  the  use 
of  which  they  were  to  give  thirty  dollars  each,  and  one  dollar  extra 
for  (he  service  of  the  peon  who  accompanied  them,  for  seven  days. 
The  road  to  Quillota  was  found  good,  although  many  hills  and  valleys 
were  met  with. 

For  the  first  twenty-five  miles  the  road  passed  along  the  sea-shore, 
with  no  elevation  over  two  hundred  feet;  it  \-,as  thought  equal  to  the 
most  frc(iuented  turnpikes  in  our  own  coiiiilry.  At  six  miles  from 
Valparaiso,  the  road  is  cut  through  a  bed  of  sieniic,  remarkable  for 


C  11  I  L  I. 


187 


the  singular  vertical  dikos  of  ^.rnnitc  by  which  it  is  intersected.  A« 
this  cnous  formutirm  will  bo  nbly  treated  of  in  the  Geological  Report. 
I  shall  refer  the  reader  to  that  for  a  description. 

Ton  miles  from  Valparaiso,  the  valley  of  Villa  del  Mar,  havinc  a 
Ixvadlh  of  nearly  three  n.ilos.  is  crossed.  This  is  a  sandy  plain, 
through  which  a  broad  shallow  stream,  coming  from  (he  eastern  hills, 
runs.  At  twcnty-five  miles  they  reached  the  broad  valley  of  Concon. 
Here  the  road  turns  to  the  eastward.  This  valley  varies  in  width 
from  three  to  six  miles.  The  character  of  the  rocks  is  granitic,  an<l 
they  appear  to  decompose  rapi.lly  when  exposed  to  the  air.  Sienite 
was  frequent,  and  on  approaching  the  mountains,  numerous  varieties 
ot  trap  formation,  greenstone,  porphyry,  &ic.,  were  met  with. 

Ten  miles  before  reaching  Quillofa.  the  road  passes  over  a  level 
plain,  which  extends  beyond  that  place.  The  hills  which  bound  the 
valley  to  the  south,  are  of  low  elevation  until  approaching  Quillota. 
i\car  Quillota,  in  the  south  and  southeastern  direction,  a  loftv  ridcro 
rises,  adjoining  the  campagna  of  Quillota.  which  is  one  of  the  Im'^h 
cones  used  as  sea-marks  for  (ho  harbour  of  Valparaiso.  This  is  l(^t 
sight  of  at  the  town,  in  consequence  of  it  being  shut  out  by  an  inter- 
vening ridge.  The  town,  or  city  of  Quillota.  occupies  the  centre  of  (Ir. 
valley,  and  is  twenty  miles  from  the  sea.  Thev  reached  it  about  one- 
hour  before  sunset,  when  they  stopped  at  Mr.  Blanchard's,  who  keep, 
a  house  for  the  accommodation  of  foreigners. 

On  the  18th  they  arose  at  daybreak,  at  which  time  the  thermometer 
stood  at  36^  in  the  open  air,  seventy  feet  above  the  sea. 

The  town  of  Quillota,  (according  to  Mr.  Blanchard.)  is  embraced 
within  a  circun  ferencc  of  three  leagues.    It  contains  several  churche«, 
of  simple  construction.     The   « Calle    Largo,"  the  longest  street,  i. 
upwards  of  a  Ic  igue  in  length.     The  same  authority  gives  its  popula- 
tion at  ten  thousand  inhabitants.     The  houses  arc  all  of  one  story,  and 
are  buiU  of  adobes,  with  thatched  roofs.     There  is  an  abundance  of 
fine  bu.lding-stone.  but  in  this  land  of  earthquakes,  it  is  considered 
safest  to  use  (he  lightest  materials.    Almost  every  house  has  a  vineyard 
attached  to  it,  the  grapes  of  which  were  of  good  quality,  and  'verv 
abundant.     At  some  places,  although  the  vintage  was  half  gathered, 
yet  the  crop  still  on  the  vines  was  such  as  would  have  been  considered 
elsewhere  an  abundant  yield.     A  por'ion  of  the  grapes  rot  upon  tlie 
vines,  as  (he  inhabitants  have  not  the  indusuy  or  inclination  to  manu- 
tacture  them,  although  by  proper  attention  they  would  yield  a  gcod 
wine.    As  it  is,  they  only  manufacture  some  into'a  hard  and  acid  wine, 
called  JIasfa,  or  boil  the  juice  down  to  the  favourite  drink  of  the  lower 
classes,  called  C/ncha,  which  somewhat  resembles  perry  or  cider  in 


188 


CHILI. 


flavour.  The  small  quantity  that  is  not  consumed,  is  distilled  into 
aguardiente,  and  disposed  of  at  Valparaiso.  Besides  grapes,  consider- 
able quantities  of  wheat  and  Indian  corn  are  cultivated.  Apples, 
pears,  and  quinces,  are  also  raised.  The  former  are  inferior  to  our 
own,  tlie  latter  much  superior,  and  in  great  plenty. 

Oranges  were  also  abundant,  oat  of  indifferent  flavour. 

Quillota  is  well  supplied  with  water  from  the  river  Concon  or 
Aconcagua.  The  water  is  led  through  all  the  streets  and  gardens  of 
the  place.  It  Is  used  for  all  household  purposes,  as  taken  directly  from 
the  gutters,  which  are  the  recipients  of  dirt  of  every  description  fioni 
the  town.  For  drinking,  it  is  allowed  to  settle  in  large  jars  kept  for 
the  purpose. 

The  intercourse  with  strangers  at  Quillota,  has  been  much  less  than 
at  Valparaiso  or  Santiago,  and  consequently  they  are  less  liberal,  and 
more  bigoted.  This  was  particularly  shown,  about  four  years  previous 
to  our  visit,  by  their  burning  in  the  public  square,  a  large  number  of 
Bibles  in  the  Spanish  language,  along  with  a  heap  of  imm.iral  and 
indecent  pnmphlets,  in  the  presence  of  the  civil,  military,  and  ecclesi- 
astical authorities.  These  Bibles  had  been  distributed  by  our  country- 
man, Mr.  Wheelwright,  who  has  done  so  much  by  his  enterprise  in 
introducing  the  communication  by  steam  along  the  western  coast  of 
South  America. 

In  the  morning  early,  the  thermometer  stood  at  36°.  The  greatest 
cold  is  experienced  just  before  sunrise  and  after  sunset. 

On  leaving  Quillota, they  went  through  the"  Calle  Largo,"  and  took 
the  southern  side  of  the  vallo'-.  passing  along  the  foot  of  the  Mellacca 
Hill,  a  sinooih  and  rounded  eleva+ion,  about  three  hundred  feet  in 
height,  and  a  mile  and  a  half  in  circumference.  This  hill  is  covered 
with  a  thin  soil,  formed  from  the  decomposition  of  its  own  rocks.  The 
valley  now  narrows,  and  in  some  jilaces  is  not  more  than  a  few  hun- 
dred feel  in  widtii.  At  about  a  league  from  Quillota,  they  ascended  a 
cuesta  of  the  Quillota  ridge,  one  thousand  feet  above  the  plain.  On  its 
top,  they  were  much  gratified  with  the  beautiful  prospect.  The  fruitful 
plain  or  vega  of  Aconcagua,  varying  in  width  from  one  to  six  miles, 
extends  to  the  west  some  twenty  miles  to  the  ocean,  and  is  lost  in  the 
other  direction  in  the  mountains ;  it  is  watered  by  pure  streams,  and 
covered  with  farm-houses  and  hamlets,  surrounded  by  trees  and  vine- 
yards. To  the  northeast  are  the  Andes,  heaped  as  it  were  on  each 
other,  until  the  towering  and  distant  peak  of  Tupongati,  with  its  giant 
form,  crowns  the  whole.  One  feature  of  the  plain  was  peculiar :  the 
mountains  seemed  to  sink  into  it  as  if  it  were  the  ocean  itself.  In 
Fome  cases  tiie  lino  was  so  welt  dufined,  that  one  foot  could  be  placed 


CHILI. 


189 


on  the  plain,  and  the  other  on  the  base  of  a  mountain,  rising  six  or 
seven  thousand  feet  high.  The  sketch  will  give  a  better  idea  of  it  than 
any  descnpt.on.     The  distance  of  Tupongati  is  about  forty  leagues. 


^'\\. 


■m>' 


m^ 


"^•^titi^ 


tt  '^^ "'  ::^J.x--  '--  ?'  '^^ 


Captains  King  and  Fitzroy  have  made  the  height  of  this  peak 
several  hundred  feet  above  Chimborazo.  The  surrounding  mounta". 
though  from  ton  to  twelve  thousand  feet  high  and  much  nearer,  sink 
.nto  msignificance  when  compared  with  it.     Indeed  all  the  objects  are 

Tul/t  '  rr'r':'  ^^  ^'^^  '"'  ^^  ^'^^•^^  ^^e  notice  tLt  they 
would  attiact  .f  situated  elsewhere.  On  the  top  of  this  cuesta,  Mr 
Couthouy  obtamed,  m  a  torpid  state,  a  small  quadruped  of  the  size  of 
a  mouse,  a  very  interesting  specimen  of  the  order  Marsupia.  A 
description  of  ,t,  with  a  spirited  drawing  by  Mr.  Peale,  will  be  found 
m  the  department  of  Mammalogy. 
The  road  over  the  c.iesta  was  narrow,  steep,  and  broken.     It  de- 

TCtruV  'r  "'"'  ''''  '^^™'  "^"  ^"^^''-^^^  -d  watered  by 
a  branch  of  the  Aconcagua.  ^ 

loH^'Lf^'"-"-!  "''  T;""''"  '^^'  '^  '^''  valley  now  became  more 
lofty  and  precipitous,  exhibiting  the  columna  •  structure  more  distinctly. 
Ihe  trap  d.kes  were  in  some  places  four  feet  wide;  and  in  one  place 
w  ere  , he  rock  had  been  cut  to  form  the  road,  fourteen  dikes  v'l 
ooun  cd  withm  three  hundred  feet.  On  their  way  up  the  valley,  the 
peon  s  horse  gave  ou^  and  they  wore  obliged  to  stop  and  hire  another 
at  a  farmers  house,  who  was  called  Evangclisto  Celidono.  This 
rancho,  twenty  feet  by  ten,  was  rather  better  than  others  that  were 
met  with,  but  at  the  same  time  bore  a  strong  resemblance  to  them.     Jf 


100 


CHILI. 


vviis  constructed  of  large  adobes,  or  rather  blocks  of  clay,  and  finished 
in  the  inside  neatly  with  the  same  material.  It  consisted  of  but  one 
apartment,  the  floor  of  which  was  clay.  It  had  a  thatched  roof,  which 
was  open  in  several  places.  There  was  no  window.  The  door  and 
the  holes  in  the  roof  supplied  all  the  light.  The  furniture,  if  such 
it  could  be  called,  consisted  of  a  rude  bedstead  and  an  apology 
ibr  a  table,  at  one  end;  the  other  was  divided  into  three  bins,  one  to 
contain  corn,  another  beans,  and  the  third  potatoes,  with  saddles  and 
various  kinds  of  horse-gear,  and  a  bag  or  two  of  wheat.  On  one 
side  was  a  clay  seat,  three  feet  broad  by  six  long,  and  the  height  of 
an  ordinary  seat,  whilst  from  the  rafters  hung  in  nets  a  good  supply  of 
bread,  cheese,  and  numerous  strings  of  onions,  garlic,  and  red  Chili 
peppers.  There  were  besides  two  chairs  and  a  bench.  All  the  cook- 
ing is  done  in  a  small  detached  building;  and  a  small  clay  oven  in  the 
yard  is  an  accompaniment  of  every  rancho.  Bread  and  an  abundance 
of  grapes,  of  which  they  could  not  eat  more  than  a  third,  were  supplied 
tliem  for  a  *'  medio."  The  second  cuestCv  was  shortly  afterwards 
mounted,  of  about  five  hundred  feet  elevation,  and  on  the  top  they 
\\*ere  gratified  by  witnessing  the  mode  in  which  the  Chilians  capture 
the  wild  horses.  A  party  of  four  or  fivc.horsemen,  with  about  twenty 
dogs,  were  seen  formed  in  an  extended  crescent,  driving  the  wild 
horses  towards  the  river  with  shouts.  All  were  armed  with  the  lassi.i. 
which  was  swinging  over  their  heads,  to  be  in  readiness  to  entrap  the 
first  that  attempted  to  break  through  the  gradually  contracting  seg- 
menl ;  the  dogs  serving  with  the  riders  to  head  the  horses  in.  They 
continued  to  advance,  when  suddenly  a  horse  with  furious  speed  broke 
the  line,  passing  near  one  of  the  horsemen,  and  for  a  moment  it  was 
thought  he  had  escaped  ;  the  next,  he  was  jerked  round  with  a  force 
that  seemed  sufficient  to  have  broken  his  neck,  the  horseman  having, 
the  moment  the  lasso  was  thrown,  turned  round  and  braced  himself  for 
the  shock.  The  captured  horse  now  began  to  rear  and  plunge  furiously 
to  efiect  his  escape.  After  becoming  somewhat  worn  out,  he  was 
suffered  to  run,  and  again  suddenly  checked.  This  was  repeated 
several  times,  when  anotlier  plan  was  adopted.  The  dogs  were  set  on 
him,  and  oft"  he  went  at  full  run,  in  the  direction  of  another  horseman, 
who  threw  his  lasso  to  entangle  his  legs  and  precipitate  him  to  thr 
ground.  The  dogs  again  roused  him,  when  he  again  started,  and  was 
in  like  manner  brought  to  a  stand;  after  several  tiials,  he  became 
completely  exhausted  and  subdued,  when  he  stood  jierfectly  still,  and 
allowed  his  captors  to  lay  hands  u[»on  him.  The  shouts  of  the  men 
the  barking  of  the  dogs,  and  the  scampering  of  the  horses,  made  the 
whole  scene  quite  exciting. 


CHILI. 


191 


Shortly  afterwards,  it  was  suspected  their  peon  was  leading  them 
astray ;  this  was  evident  by  their  crossing  and  recrossing  the  river,  and 
wandering  at   random  on  a  road  which  was   apparently  but   little 
travelled.     After  a  toilsome  route  of  three  and  a  half  hours,  they  found 
themselves  surrounded  by  many  branches  of  the  river,  whose  banks 
were  but  a  few  inches  above  the  water.    The  peon  then  acknowledtred 
himself  bewildered,  and  that  he  had  missed  his  way.     Crossing  °he 
streams  was  attended  with  some  danger,  for  owing  to  their  rapidity 
and  depth  they  were  near  sweeping  the  horses  oft'  their  legs.     Return- 
ing a  league  or  two,  they  fortunately  met  a  muleteer,  who  put  them  in 
the  road;  but    their  horses  were  now  so  exhausted  that  they  were 
compelled  to  seek  lodgings  at  a  rancho.    After  applying  at  several,  they 
succeeded  in  getting  a  place  to  lie  in,  after  making  many  promises  of 
liberal  payment.     A  similar  course,  notwithstanding  a  positive  refusal 
or  denial  of  having  any  provisions,  procured  them  a  casuela,  served  in 
a  large  wooden  bowl,  with  wooden  spoons.     This  is  a  sort  of  Chilian 
chowder,  with  a  plentiful  supply  of  garlic,  onions.  Chili  pepper,  &c., 
and  one  of  the  favourite  dishes  of  the  country.     In  three  days'  ride 
they  had  passed  over  about  sixty  miles;  the  highest  temperature  expe- 
rienced was  65-5°,  the  lowest  35-7°.    At  the  rancho  where  they  stopped 
for  the  night,  the  temperature  fell  20-5°  in  three  hours. 

They  passed  the  night  with  the  usual  annoyance  in  most  houses  in 
Chih,  for  fleas  were  found  in  great  abundance.     In  the  mornin<^  the 
temperature  was  35-5°,  and  the  ground  covered  with  hoar  frost.  *The 
rancho  was  supposed  to  be  about  one  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.     The  mountains  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  were  from 
six  to  seven  thousand  feet  high,  exhibiting  a  gorgeous  appearance  as 
the  sunbeams  lighted  them  up,  and  at  times  the  brilliancy  was  so  great 
as  10  dazzle  the  eye.     They  left  the  rancho  at  seven  o'clock,  and 
although  it  was  only  ten  miles  distant,  ihey  did  not  reach  San  Felipe 
before  eleven.    The  road  passed  over  a  third  cuesta,  which  exhibited 
a  regular  columnar  structure.     The  hills  inclining  to  the  northward 
open  and  present  to  view  the  broad  plain  of  Aconcagua.    San  Felipe 
de  Aconcagua  stands  about  fifteen  miles  from  the  foot  of  the  Andes, 
and  the  mountains  are  seen  from  thence  in  all  their  grandeur.     The 
peak  of  Tupongati  is,  however,  lost  sight  of  as  the  town  is  approached, 
disappearing  behind  the  nearer  snowy  peaks.   This  mountain  is  situated 
on  the  dividing  or  eastern  ridge  of  the  Cordilleras,  and  within  the 
United  Provinces  of  La  Plata. 

On  arriving  at  San  Felipe,  they  proceeded  at  once  to  the  house  of 
Mr.  Henry  Newman,  an  Englisii  gentleman  resident  there,  and  engaged 
ill  mining  operations,  to  whom  they  had  letters.     Mr.  Newman  was 


192 


C  H  I  L  I. 


not  at  home,  but  they  were  hospitably  received  by  his  lady,  a  native 
ot"  Chili,  who  treated  them  with  great  kmdness  and  attention.  In  the 
absence  of  her  husband,  she  made  them  acquainted  with  an  American 
gentleman,  a  Mr.  Chase,  who  happened  to  be  on  a  visit  there,  from 
Santiago.  He  had  been  in  Chili  since  the  failure  of  the  expedition  of 
Carrera,  when  he,  with  several  of  his  companions,  settled  in  Chili,  and 
afterwards  engaged  in  mining  operations.  He  had  several  times 
amassed  a  large  property,  and  as  oilen  lost  it,  by  the  revolutions  thai 
had  taken  place  in  the  country.  He  is  now  engaged  in  working  a  silver 
mine,  in  the  vicinity  of  Santiago,  and  attempting  the  German  process 
of  smelting,  as  there  are  vast  quantities  of  ore,  containing  a  krge  per 
centage  of  silver,  which  have  hitherto  been  neglected,  from  the  imprac- 
ticability of  separating  the  silver  by  the  usual  method.  There  is  now 
only  one  survivor  from  among  th*^  thirty  persons  who  settled  in  Chili 
with  Mr.  Chase.  From  his  operations  he  expects  in  a  few  years  to 
realize  a  large  fortune. 

The  town  of  San  Felipe  is  laid  out  with  great  regularity,  in  the 
form  of  a  square,  surrounded  by  extensive  alamedas,  which  are  planted 
with  Lombardy  poplars.  Mr.  Newman  gave  the  population  at  from 
twelve  to  thirteen  thousand.  In  the  centre  of  the  town  is  a  large  open 
square,  one  side  of  which  is  occupied  by  the  town  hall,  and  otlices 
connected  with  the  municipality.  Opposite  are  the  church  and  bar- 
racks, and  the  remaining  sides  are  occupied  with  shops  and  private 
dwellings.  The  houses  are  all  of  one  story,  and  are  in  a  good  style  of 
building.  The  better  class  of  houses  stand  some  distance  back  from 
the  street,  and  are  decorated  tastefully  with  paintings  in  fresco  on  the 
walls.  Roses  and  jessamines  were  seen  in  every  court-yard,  and  the 
gardens  are  well  filled  with  various  fruits,  apples,  peaches,  pears, 
grapes,  pomegranates,  oranges,  lemons,  and  quinces;  the  latter  are 
remarkably  fine,  and  in  great  plenty.  The  houses,  as  in  other  parts 
of  Chili,  have  no  fire-places,  in  lieu  of  which  they  use  hrazeros,  or 
pans  of  live  coal  when  heat  is  required.  Mr.  Chase  took  them  to  a 
friend  of  his,  to  see  the  process  of  manufacturing  the  acida  and  aguar- 
diente of  the  country.  The  whole  process  is  carried  on  in  a  large 
court  behind  the  house.  The  grapes  are  brought  in  large  baskets,  or 
on  hand-barrows,  made  with  poles  and  raw  hide,  and  are  emptied  in 
heaps,  under  an  open  shed.  Here  several  small  boards  are  ph^ed,  on 
which  the  graper  are  laid  by  the  men,  who  separate  them  from  the 
stalks,  by  rolling  them  rapidly  in  their  hands,  the  grapes  falling  along 
the  boards,  which  are  inclined  into  a  large  vat,  where  they  are  trodden 
out  by  men.  The  juice,  which  runs  off  through  a  rude  strainer  at  one 
end,  is  received  into  large  earthen  jars ;  the  pumice,  or  residuum,  is 


CHILI. 


193 


from  time  to  t,me  taken  out  of  the  vat,  and  placed  on  a  platform,  wi.en 
more  ju.ce  ,s  expressed,  by  laying  boards   and  heavy  stones  upon  it. 
I  ha   part  ^vluch  is  intended  for  wine  proper,  or  the  "  must,"  is  received 
.i<e  the  nrst  mto  earthen  jars,  where  it  undergoes  the  requisite  fermen- 
tation, and  receives  a  small  quantity  of  brandy,  or  the  aguardiente 
ot  the  country,  to  g.ve  it  body.     The  cliioha  is  made  by  boHing  down 
the  clear  grapcjuice  after  fermentation,  for  several  hours,  over  a  slow 
hre.     After  this  process,  it  was  put  in  enormous  earthen  jars,  contain- 
ning  sixty  to  one  hundred  and  twenty  gallons,  which   are  covered 
over,  and  t.ghtly  utod.     The  pov.jon  not  required  for  consumption, 
IS  afterwards  distilled  with  the  pun.ice  into  aguardiente  of  the  country! 
1  he  stills  were  of  the  simplest  construction,  being  nothing  more  than  a 
number  of  large  earthen  pots,  holding  from  eighty  to  one  hundred 
gallons,  placed  in  the  ground  over  a  long  narrow  oven.     Instead  of  a 
u-orm,  a  straight  pipe  of  copper  is  used,  about  twenty  feet  long;  onp 
of  these  was  inserted  into  each  pot  o.  j.-.r,  and  to  effect  the  condensa- 
tion a  stream  of  water  from  the  river  was  led  so  as  to  pass  ove;  them. 
Ail  the  agricultural  implements  are  equally  rude  and  primitive.     The 
ploughs  are  nothing  more  than  a  crooked  stick,  with  the  share-end 
pointed,  and  hardened  by  charring.     Notwithstanding  these  disadvan- 
tages,  they  are  enabled  to  raise  large  crops,  and  bring  their  farms 
into  tolerable  condition. 

In  the  evening  they  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  Mr.  Newman,  who 
returned  ;  and  his  reception  of  his  guests  was,  if  nossible,  even  more 
kind  than  that  of  his  good  lady.  Learning  that  our  gentlemen  wished 
to  visit  some  of  the  mines  in  the  neighbourhood,  he  immediately  made 
arrangement  to  send  his  agent  to  his  own  establishment,  five  leasues 
beyond  San  Felipe,  and  pioviderl  them  horses  and  mules,  in  order  that 
the;r  ovyn  might  recruit  for  their  return  journey.  The  temperature  at 
hnn  J^elipe  varied,  between  noon  and  10  p.  m.,  from  f3°  to  49°  The 
night  was  remarkably  clear  and  fine. 

The  next  morning  they  started,  with  Mr.  George  Alderson,  for  the 
mines,  which  are  near  the  summit  of  the  first  Cordillera,  on  the 
Memloza  road,  and  about  three  thousand  feet  above  (he  level  of  the 
sea.  They  were  here  informed,  that  in  consequence  of  the  late  heavy 
falls  of  snow,  the  roads  were  all  covered  and  congealed,  and  that  it 
extended  several  thousand  feet  below  the  limit  of  perpetual  snow, 
liiey  had  nr.  t:  f,,r  the  neglected  barometer,  and  had  some  satisfac- 
'ion  m  focl-.g  ii  r>y  had  not  been  troubled  with  it.  About  a  lea.^ue 
from  San  rylin,  mey  passed  a  large  porphyritic  mass,  some  specimens 
bro  :en  from  which  contained  grains  of  quartz.  They  then  passed  up 
a  singular  gully,  about  twenty  feet  deep  and  as  many  wide,  for  about 

VOL.  I.  R  25 


194 


CHILI. 


a  league.  On  leaving  the  gully,  Jiey  gradually  ascended  until  they 
reached  the  ranches  at  Jaquel,  at  tlie  foot  of  the  mountain  where  the 
mines  wore  situated.  It  being  too  late  to  make  the  ascent  to  the  mines 
that  night,  the  running  streams  in  the  neighbourhood  were  visited,  but 
nothing  was  found.  They  were  entirely  destitute  of  fluv^iatile  shells 
and  mollusca.  Other  objects  of  interest  were,  however,  obtained,  in 
the  classes  of  insects  and  reptilia,  which  will  be  described  in  the 
reports  of  these  different  departments.  At  sunset  the  snowy  mountains 
exhibited  a  >Tiagnificcnt  sight ;  lighted  up  and  glistening  in  the  sun- 
shine, it  appeared  as  though  some  tremendous  conflagration  had 
broken  out.  After  this,  the  progress  of  night  produces  a  peculiar 
effect.  It  was  quite  dark  in  the  valley,  while  the  lofty  summits  were 
yet  tinged  by  the  setting  sun.  The  limit  of  darkness  was  distinctly 
seen  advancii\,;  upwards  like  a  dark  wall,  and  as  it  ascended,  peak 
after  peak  became  lost  to  view,  until  the  whole  was  enshrouded  in 
obscurity. 

The  part  of  this  valley  where  the  ranchos  are  situated  is  called  La 
Vcj^a  of  Jaquel.  This  is  the  principal  smelting-place,  the  ore  being 
brought  ;>  re  by  mules  from  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  down  whose 
sides  it  is  thrown  from  the  mines.  The  descent  is  about  two  thousand 
feet,  and  very  steep.  Mr.  Alderson  stated  that  it  took  thirty  seconds 
for  the  ore  to  descend.  The  face  of  the  mountain  from  long  usuge  in 
this  way  is  worn  quite  smooth.  The  ranchos  at  the  mine,  about  six 
hundred  feet  below  the  summit,  on  the  steep  mountain  side,  are  visible 
from  the  sm-jlting  huts.  The  Jaquel  valley  is  said  to  contain  a  few 
sulphur  springs,  which  are  report'^d  as  poisonous.  Our  gentlemen  had 
not  time  to  visit  them.  The  temperature,  before  leaving  San  Felipe, 
at  six  o'clock,  a.  m.,  was  45°,  at  10  a.  m.,  54° ;  at  Jaquel,  three  hundred 
feet  above  the  sea,  at  5''  30"",  it  was  55°,  at  11  p.  m.  51.° 

Mr.  Newman  had  previously  lost  much  property  here  by  the  burning 
of  his  wliole  establishment,  excepting  two  buildings,  fire  having  been 
communicated  to  the  thatched  roof  by  the  sparks  from  the  furnace, 
during  a  tornado  that  passed  over.  So  rapidly  had  the  flames  spread, 
that  it  was  with  difllculty  that  Mr.  Newman  and  his  agent  saved  their 
lives.  Besides  the  loss  of  buildings,  a  large  quantity  of  machinery, 
lately  imported  from  England,  was  destroyed. 

On  the  21st  May,  they  set  out  on  mules  for  the  mines,  accompanied 
by  Mr.  Alderson,  and  reached  them  about  ten  o'clock.  Their  first 
act  was  to  change  their  boots  for  a  pair  of  raw-liido  shoes,  such  as 
are  used  by  the  miners,  in  order  to  insure  a  safer  footing.  They  now 
entered  the  principal  gallery,  which  was  about  seven  feet  high  and  five 
broad,  excavated  for  about  twenty  yards  horizontally ;  it  then  divides 


CHILI. 


195 


others. 


mto  several  branches,  and    those  .-gain  i 

twenty  yards  in  length.  '^  " 

The  greatest  extent  of  any  one  gallery  is  about  thirty  feet.  The 
mountam  has  been  penetrated  horizontally  to  about  four  hundred  feet, 
m  the  dn-ect,on  of  northeast  to  east-northeast,  as  the  veins  run,  and 
vertically  to  a  depth  of  about  ono  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  Each  person 
was  provided  with  a  tallow  candle,  stuck  in  the  end  c.  a  split  stick 
SIX  feet  long,  and  caution  was  given  not  to  lose  sight  of  the  guide,  for 
the  galleries,  although  small,  are  so  numerous,  and  communicate  with 
each  other  so  frequently,  that  a  person  might  easily  be  lost. 

rhe  ladders,  or  rather  posts,  by  which  the  descents  are  made,  are 
not  a  little  dangerous.     They  are  not  all  secured,  so  that  it  becomes 
necessary  for  one  person  to  hold  the  ladder  whilst  another  descends 
and  It  causes  no  small  uneasiness  to  see  the  foot  of  it  resting  on  a 
mere  ledge     These  shafts  are  at  times  crossed  by  a  gallery,  where 
but  a   single  post  is  laid   over  them,  and  the  men  pass  over  it  by 
steadying  theniselves  against  the  side-wall.     At  the  bottom  of  one  of 
he  shafts,  at  about  three  hundred  feet  from  the  mouth  of  the  mine,  the 
thermon.eter,  after  remaining  for  half  an  hour,  stood  at  62%  the  air 
outside  being  56°.     This  may  be  considered  a  fair  test  of  the  tem- 
perature.   They  report  that  they  perceive  no  diflerence  in  the  mine,  in 
winter  and  summer.  ' 

There  appears  to  be  little  system  in  working  the  mines,  and  little 

nowledge  of  the  structure  of  the  rock  or  the  courses  of  the  veins! 

BIr.  Alderson  mentioned  that  a  few  months  previously,  they  had  been 

working   for  several   weeks,  extending   a   shaft,  without   meeting  a 

particle  of  ore  to  repay  their  labour,  and  they  were  just  about  givln^ 

MP  the  search,  when  the  mayoral,  or  master-workman,  declaring  he 

would  have  a  last  blow  for  luck,  .tr.ck  the  rock  with  all  his  force. 

rins  detached  a  arge  fragment,  and  to  ;heir  surprise  and  delight,  laid 

open  a  vein  which  proved  the  largest  and  richest  that  Jiad  been  Worked 

or  many  years.     From  this  it  would  appear  that  the  employment  is 

attended  with  much  uncertainty;  and  after  exhausting  one  of  these 

reasure  deposits.  Mierc  are  no  means  or  signs  known  to  them  by  which 

they  can  ascertain  the  best  direction  to  take  to  discover  another 

Ihis  mine  is  situated  in  claystone,  the  sedimentary  rock  of  the 
region,  where  it  is  intersected  by  a  dike  of  compact  clinkstone.  The 
dike  IS  about  SIX  feet  wide.     The   adjoining  claystone   has  a   dark 

tit  T    /7T^T  T'*  ""'"'^''^  "  "'^^'^^-    ^'  -^  -  '--h  fissured 
that  It  IS  difficult  to  break  off  a  small  piece  which  will  present  a  fresh 

surface.     The  green  carbonate  of  copper,  and  silicious  carbonate  of 


196 


CHILI. 


copper  (chrysocolla),  stain  the  rock  for  one  hundred  feet  from  the 
vein,  occupying  tiie  fissures,  and  giving  the  surface  a  green  or  bluish 
tinge.  In  some  places  chrysocolla  forms  in  small  botryoidal  incrusta- 
tions on  the  face  of  the  rock.  The  ores  of  copper  occur  in  veins  in 
the  claystone  and  the  rock  of  this  dike,  but  most  abundantly  near  the 
junction  of  the  two  rocks.  The  veins  are  very  irregular,  and  are  more 
or  less  elongated.  They  are  occasionally  connected,  but  in  the  excava- 
tions frequently  run  out.  In  order  to  discover  new  ones,  they  follow 
the  lines  of  the  green  carbonates,  or  the  seams  of  calcareous  spar  and 
(juarlz.  The  name  of  metal  is  given  as  a  general  term  to  all  the  ores, 
that  of  quizo  to  the  lode  in  which  they  are  contained. 

The  ores  contain  more  or  less  sulphur,  and  often  a  portion  of  arsenic. 
Some  silver  is  also  occasionally  mixed  with  the  copper.  Some  of  the 
ores  found  at  this  mine  '  been  very  rich,  yielding  sixty-five  to 

seventy  per  cent,  of  pure  .  r.     The  average  yield  is  about  forty- 

five  per  cent.  The  various  qualities  are  denominated,  mctal-rcgio, 
platiado,  bronze,  and  piedra  bruta.  The  last,  as  the  name  implies,  is 
worthless. 

The  mines,  by  the  light  of  the  numerous  candles,  exhibited  all  the 
shades  of  green,  blue,  yellow,  purple,  bronze,  &c.,  having  a  metallic 
and  lustrous  appearance.  The  confined  air,  with  the  heat  of  so  many 
candles,  made  it  quite  oppressive;  and  persons  who  have  not  often 
visited  mines,  are  subject  to  faintness  and  vertigo  from  this  cause.  Mr. 
Alderson  and  Mr.  Dana  were  both  aflbcted  by  it.  It  was  the  first  time 
the  former  had  ever  penetrated  so  far,  Mr.  New-^nan  and  himself  being 
governed  by  the  report  of  the  mayoral,  and  the  ore  brought  up  in  their 
operations.  The  miners  were  not  a  little  astonished  at  our  gentlemen 
loading  themselves,  besides  the  specimens  of  ores,  with  the  piedra 
bruta,  which  they  considered  of  no  value.  The  manner  of  labour  in 
the  mines  is  in  as  rude  a  state  as  it  was  found  in  the  agricultural 
branches  of  industry.  A  clumsy  pick  axe,  a  short  crowbar,  a  stone- 
cutter's chisel,  and  an  enormous  oblong  iron  hammer,  of  twerty-five 
pounds  weight,  were  the  only  tools.  The  hammer  is  only  used  when 
the  ore  is  too  high  to  be  reached  with  the  pick  or  crowbar.  The 
miners,  from  the  constant  exercise  of  their  arms  and  chest,  have  them 
wei.  developed,  and  appear  brawny  figures.  When  the  ore  is  too 
tougii  to  be  removed  by  the  ordinary  methods,  they  blast  it  off  in  sinal! 
fragments,  not  daring  to  use  large  blasts,  lest  the  rock  should  cave  in 
upon  them.  Only  a  few  weeks  previous  to  their  visit,  the  mayoral, 
while  at  the  farthest  end  of  the  gallery,  was  alarmed  by  the  rattling 
down  of  some  stones,  and  before  he  could  retreat,  the  walls  caved  in 


CHILI. 


197 


for  several  yards  outside  of  where  he  xvas,  leaving  hut  a  small  space 

eX::    TT  '?'"  "'  ""^^"^'"^'  ^^'^''  'y  --'^  -  hund  e  Ten 
to  extricate  h.m  from  his  perilous  situation. 

The  ore  is  brought  to  the  mourh  of  the  mine  on  the  backs  of  men 

Whenever  a  sufhc.ent  quantity  to  load  a  drove  of  mules  is  e-^racted 

at  Jaquel.  Only  seventeen  mmers  were  employed ;  previous  to  this 
the  number  employed  was  one  hundred.  Whenever  a  richer  ven  111 
struck  a  arger  number  were  emn-oyed,  who  could  always  b  eaX 
obtained  by  foreigners,  the  natives  preferring  to  work  for  them    al 

regularly  paid      The  wages  are  small-from  three  to  four  dollars  per 
n  onth,  ,n  addition  to  their  food.     They  are  allowed  to  draw  a    Mrd 
of  thc,r  ,,y  on  the  last  Saturday  of  every  month,  and  full  settlemen    s 
made  twice   a    year      They  are   supplied  with  clothing   and  othe 
n  cessaries.  out  o  which  the  agent  makes  a  per  centage,  fnd  which! 
charged  against  their  wages. 

There  is  one  admirable  regulation  of  the  Chilian  government  that 
of  not  permitting  liquors  to  be  brought  within  a  league  ofTny  m  ne 
nnder  a  severe  penalty,  which  is  strictly  enforced.     The  cost  oT  the 
maintenance  of  each  workman  is  not  great;    they  are  allowed   a 
rations  for  breakfast  four  handfuls  of  dried  figs,  and  the  Zte  of 
walnuts:  value  about  three  cents.     For  dinner  Ihev  have  bretd  and 

selve,.  One  of  the  greatest  inconveniences,  and  which  is  attended 
With  some  expense  is  the  supply  of  the  miners  with  water,  which  has 
to  be  brought  up  the  mountains. 

Andp!  ""m'^Iu"''  "'  '^"  '"■''  "^""'""^^  ""^^^  Chilian  side  of  the 
Andes.     Mr.  Alderson  mentioned,  that  in  five  hours'  ride  from  thence 
a  lake  was  reported  to  exist,  three  leagues  in  circumference,  on  the 
■summit  of  a  con:cal  mountain,  which  is  surrounded  by  a  beach  of 
sand  and  gravel  and  has  .o  oatlet.     Several  persons  c'onfirmed  this 
statement  as  to  the  existence  of  the  lake,  that  it  had  no  visible  outlet 
and  that  the  warer  was  always  at  the  same  level.     Although  desirous' 
of  visiting  so  interesting  a  spot,  they  found  they  had  not  time  left  to 
accomplish  it.     They  therefore  determined,  instead,  to  make  a  viS  to 
the  coal-mine  which  was  reported  as  exiting  about  two  leagues  farther 
on  the  Cordilleras.     They  n..ched  this  in  about  three  hourf    W  „, 
heir  mules,  they  scrambled  up  ,he  face  of  n  clif  for  some  two  hundred 
teef,  where  some  fragments  or  .-oal,  more,  howe^ .,r.  resetnbling  lignite 
and  retaining  perfectly  the  structure  of  the  original  wood,  we?e  found 


IM 


c  it  I  r,  I. 


Otiuir  |ii<»'.os  liiul  lilt?  r.triii  ..f  (rmil,  aiiii  on  iKiiilioii  liunu'il  i|nilc  frcoly, 
»hii\viiij^  the  |Mi-N«nii^(!  t>r  l»iliiiiit;ii  .iiiil  sulphur.  Tlii!  lur.t  wns  alwnvB 
roiiMil  in  siniill  lumps,  ri'scmlijin^  tin;  HJI'liiij^s  of  coal,  and  was  oiii- 
hfildccl  ill  a  iViaiilc  (miIIi,  coiilniiiiii^  sallpdlrf.  No  c.oi'l  was  foh.nl  /// 
nitH  ;  llmir  liiiui  did  imi  admil  of  any  cxItiidMd  (examination.  Coal 
wonid  indiifd  lio  u  mt»st  valnahlti  discovory  for  ui<!  Cliilian  tninos, 
wlu'it!  wood  is  so  straifi)  lliat  llioy  aro  provonled  from  nMJnrini,'  tlit- 
oro,  and  in  (•onstMinoncc,  as  I  liavo  lu'lori'  romarkwl,  tlioy  ans  (d)lijr(!(l 
to  Hcnd  it  lo  Valpai'aiso  for  shipnumt.  'I'lu?  priiuipul  ores  wliir.li  llie 
inino  «tr  Mr.  Nowman  aironls,  aro  tlio  vitrtjons,  j^ray,  and  variojfalcd 
roppor.  ('((ppcr  pyrites  and  tlio  nid  oxido  of  coppor,  dso  occur,  and 
llu)  silicionscarlioiiato  (cinysocolla)  is  alinndantly  disstMuiiialcd  thnMii;|i 
tlu)  rocks.  'riicsi>  ores  aro  jroiuirally  massive,  (u-  (.'xliihit.  only  iiuporfoci 
traces  ;'f  cryslalli/iition.  iVativ(!  copper  is  rarely  found  at  tins  mine 
Its  occnrrtijice  is  not  welcomed  Uy  the  miners,  as  they  consider  it  ! 
Hiiro  sign  that  the  vein  will  soon  run  onl.  It  is  iisinlly  found  witii 
largo  (iiianlities  of  red  oxide  of  cojiper.  According  to  Mr.  Dana,  this 
would  seem  t->  indicate  that  the  native  copp(!r  and  red  oxido  have 
originated  from  the  reduction  of  other  onvs  hy  heat,  and  this  would 
account  for  the  almvo  fact,  which  seems  to  he  well  established  anion" 
miners. 

Copper  ores  occur  sparingly  at  oiIum'  localities  in  tliis  part  of  ('hili; 
the  valiialilt>  mines  are  chictly  coiilined  to  llu>  northern  provinces. 

,'\f1er  again  returning  to  Jai|uel.  they  momit(;d  thoir  horses,  and 
roaehcil  San  F(>lipe,  in  ahont  two  hours'  hard  gallop.  The  tempiMature 
during  the  day  varied  from  IC  at  six  o'clock  in  the  morning,  ,ii 
Jaqiiel,  lo  ^H'  at  iu>on.  on  the  hill  at  the  mines;  and  at  10  r.  M.,at  San 
Telipe.  it  was  at  M'\ 

On  the  U'Jd,  they  set  out  on  tlu-ir  return,  after  a  gooiJ  deal  of  delav. 
owing  to  the  stupidity  of  their  lu-oii.  who  had  indulged  too  much  in 
Ins  favourite  cliicha.  Xolhing  could  exceed  the  kindness  and  alt(Mitioii 
shown  them  hy  Mr.  Newman,  his  lady,  and  Mr.  Chase.  Mr.  Aldersoii. 
the  I'gont,  devoted  himself  to  them  for  two  days,  during  which  time  he 
loft  nothing  nndoiio  that  could  promote  and  forwanl  the  ohjtrt  of  their 
visit.  It  atVords  me  great  pleasure  to  hear  testimony  also  to  thr 
numorous  tine  specimens  ol'  copper,  A:c..  tVoiu  other  mines,  which  .Mr. 
Nowman  presented  to  the  Expedition,  and  to  return  iiiin  onr  thank.stor 
them  ami  the  kind  attention  of  his  lady.  Onr  gentlonuui  returned  tottie 
ranoho  of  Hvangeiisto  Celidono,  where  they  passed  the  night,  and  were 
furnished  with  a  like  casuela  as  hefoie.  All  the  farmers  thev  mot 
wore  a  simple,  good-hearted  set,  caring  for  little  beyond  their  ovvn 
iinmodiato  neiglduunhood.  and  knowing  little  but  to  supply  their  outi 


C  II  I  L  I. 


199 


wants.  (\,|„|„„o  i„f„n„<!.l  thotn  il,»t  |,..  |,ad  inum  at  tl.o  Port  (Val- 
imniiHo)  only  onco  in  five  years.  Me  sfMns  (o  have  all  that  is  needful 
Ms  vv,(e  was  en^ra^ed  i.i  s,,i„„i„g  with  the  .listalVan.!  spindle.  There 
iHMni,'  M.t  <,ne  r.K„n,  ,h,.y  were  ar,-  .,n„,odat..,l  on  the  -lay  floor,  spread 
with  t  .e.r  p.lhons  and  sa.ldle-eloths,  while  C.iidono  ar.d  his  wife  oreu- 
IT  .  T     r.'o  '^''"'  ''"''"'•■'''""■"  ^'"'''''d  from  05-30°  on  their  arrival,  at 

On  the  nmrningof  theaith,  the  thermometer  stood  at  .-il"  on  the 
siiounit  of  the  ,;nesta,  an.l  at  M-  helween  nine  and  ten  o'.-'ock.  Hero  the 
Hceno  V  ,s  very  diderent  fro.n  what  they  had  before  witnessed.  The 
plain  tl„  y  h„d  j,ist  l.^ft  was  in  broad  sunshine,  showing  distine.tly  its 
nmny  .•ullivr.te.l  farms;  that  to  whiel,  they  were  about  descendin-r  wa, 
a  sea  of  dense  white  c|.  -,uls,  exiending  seaward  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
i-oaeh  as  though  a  vast  body  ..f  white  cumuli  ha<l  desocn.lcd  and  filled 
tl.c.  whole  extent  of  the  (iniHota  valley.  These  elouds  kept  rolling  ofl' 
...war. Is  the  sea  befo,.  light  win.l.  an.I  rose  gradually  as  they  passed 
f.  n.oy  reached  Mr.  III.M.ehard's,  at  (iuillota,  at  noon,  when  the 
tcn.perature  was  (K)^  an.)  tukh.g  their  bilo,  he,  they  arrived  at  Val- 
paraiso  m  the  evfiuing. 

Ifaving  heard  n.u.h  about  the  rise  of  the  .oast,  from  the  ofTects  of 
oar,h,,uakes,  I  was  desirous  of  gaining  all  the  information  in  relation  to 
'MS  subject.     Prom  the  residents,  the  accounts  are  so  contradictory 
>'-•'»  "o  correct  intelligence  can  be  obtained.     The  decrease  in  the 
<ln"l'  of  the  bay,  I   have   before  saul,  can   be  accounted  for,  and 
..".  oubtedly  ,s  owing,  so  far  as  it  has  taken  place,  to  the  wash  of  the 
lulls  ;  and  tlu.  formati<.n  of  a  now  street  which  has  been  reclaimed  from 
(1.0  bay,  has  ;^^vc,^  ris.-  to  the  idea,  and  it  is  pointed  out  as  havin.^  been 
budt  upon  gromid  lelt  <iry  by  the  earthquake  of  1832.     Several  of  our 
imtnrahsts  ma.le  a  dose  examination  of  the  coast  in  the  neighbourhood 
the  result  of  which  on  the  minds  of  all  was,  that  there  was  no  proof  of 
elevation.     That  changes  in  the  beaches,  through  the  agency  of  the 
heavy  rollers  a.ul  the  northers  that  yearly  occur,  are  constantly  going 
on.  IS  .lu.to  evident ;  but  these,  as  one  would  naturally  suppose,  increase 
the  shore  only  m  so.ne  places,  while  in  others  they  are  wcarin-  it 
away.  ° 

Karth.iuakes  do  not  appear  to  happen  at  a«y  particular  season. 
The  great  one  of  1730  was  m  July  ;  that  of  1751,  in  May;  and  those 
of  18.2  and  1835,  both  of  which  did  much  damage,  in  Fe'brurry. 

Sight  shocks  of  earthciuakes  arc  experienced  very  frequently  through- 
out (  h.h.  One  during  our  stay,  on  the  28th  of  May,  started  every  one 
frotn  thetr  beds,  but  the  shock  was  not  repeated.  No  peculiar  state  of 
the  woather.  or  other  phenomenon,  seems  to  precede  them.    That  of 


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CHILI, 


1835  nearly  destroyed  the  towns  of  Corcepcion,  Talcahuana,  Arauco, 
Angeles,  Coluna,  Chillian,  Talca,  and  Cauquenes.  It  was  very  slightly 
felt  in  Valparaiso,  and  scarcely  at  all  farther  north.  The  sea  receded  in 
Valparaiso  two  feet,  and  returned  immediately.  The  ground  seetnod 
to  swell  under  the  feet.  In  Juan  Fernandez,  it  was  very  severely 
felt.:  and  the  following  extract  from  the  report  of  the  then  governor  of 
that  island,  to  the  supreme  government,  is  interesting.  «  I  was  walking, 
at  the  Castle  of  Santa  Barbara,  with  the  commandant  of  the  garrison, 
when  we  suddenly  observed  that  the  sea  had  come  over  the  mole. 
Fearing  great  damage,  I  hastened  to  have  the  boats  drawn  from  under 
a  shed,  and  prepared  for  use.  At  the  same  moment  we  heard  a  loud 
roaring,  as  of  thunder,  and  saw  a  white  column,  like  smoke,  rise  from 
the  sea,  a  short  distance  from  the  place  called  ^  El  Punto  de  Bacallao; 
and  then  felt  the  earth  move.  The  sea  retired  about  two  hundred 
feet,  when  it  commenced  returning  with  great  violence.  This  time  it 
carried  nearly  every  thing  with  it;  broke  down  all  the  houses  and 
huts  but  the  one  recently  built  of  stone  and  mortar  to  contain  pro- 
visions. Happily,  this  withstood  its  violence,  although  the  water 
ascended  more  than  six  feet  up  its  sides.  It  then  retired  again  to  its 
usual  height.  Constant  shocks  were  felt  during  the  night;  and  the  sea, 
at  the  place  before  mentioned,  continued  throwing  up  water  and 
smoke  like  a  volcano." 

Chili  abounds  with  volcanic  mountains,  but  few  of  them  are  in  an 
active  state  of  eruption;  which  may  account  for  the  frequency  of 
earthquakes.  The  peak  of  Tupongati  is  the  only  one  in  activity  in 
this  section.  Our  travellers  to  the  Cordilleras  were  not  fortunate 
enough  to  get  a  sight  of  it  at  night. 

Although  by  the  constitution  the  Catholic  religion  is  the  established 
one,  yet  they  have  become  so  far  enlightened  as  to  tolerate  that  of  the 
Protestant  Episcopal  form.  A  license  could  not  be  given  to  build  a 
church,  but  the  authorities,  on  being  asked  if  the  worship  would  be 
permitted,  readily  gave  an  assurance  that  it  would  not  be  interfered 
with;  that  although  they  could  not  allow  a  church  to  be  put  up  there 
could  be  no  objection  to  their  worshipping  in  a  private  dwelling. 
Since  then,  a  very  convenient  room  has  been  preoared,  and  a  resident 
chaplain,  Mr.  Rowlandson,  has  been  called,  who  officiates  regularly 
on  the  Sabbath.  The  effect  that  it  has  produced  on  the  habits  of  the 
foreign  residents,  of  whom  there  are  about  three  hundred,  is  marked 
About  one  hundred  and  eighty  of  them  are  constant  attendants  on  the 
service. 

What  is  somewhat  remarkable,  the  person  most  in  favour  of  tolera- 
tion  and  building  a  church,  is  the  priest  of  Valparaiso;  and  the  only 


CHILI. 


201 


vote  recorded  for  toleration,  on  the  adoption  of  the  constitution,  was 
given  by  a  Catholic  bishop. 

The  influence  of  the  clergy  is  great,  and  they  have  much  political 
power  m  the  state.  The  people  may  generally  be  called  bigoted,  and 
under  the  control  of  the  priests.  The  clergy  as  a  body  stand  very 
fair;  they  encourage  schools.  The  inhabitants  are  ignorant  as  yet; 
their  opportunities  for  instruction  are  limited.  There  is  no  impediment 
in  the  vi^ay  of  Protestants  teaching. 

Although  it  may  be  somewhat  irite  to  mention  it,  yet  one  cannot 
but  admire  the  sight  of  the  Oracion,  or  sunset  prayer.  Whatever  may 
be  our  idea  of  Catholic  worship,  no  one  can  witness  it  here  without 
leelmg  the  solemn  and  impressive  scene  of  a  whole  community,  on  the 
strikmg  of  the  evening  bells,  instantly  stopping  employment,  both 
withm  and  without  doors,  and  uncovering  their  heads  to  offer  up  their 
thanks  or  prayer  for  a  k^,^  minutes.  It  must  bring  reflection,  unless 
habit  so  blunts  the  mind  and  feeling  as  to  mak3  it  callous  to  impres- 
SK)ns  well  calculated  to  make  men  consider  their  evil  ways,  and  feel 
thankful  for  the  blessings  they  enjoy. 

The  commerce  of  Chili  is  increasing  rapidly.  Valparaiso  numbers 
sixty  coasting  vessels,  of  from  fifty  to  three  hundred  and  fifty  tons 
part  of  which  are  engaged  in  the  .rade  from  Valdivia  and  Chiloe  to' 
the  northern  ports,  with  ti-aber  and  staves;  and  part  are  charged  from 
Maule  and  Concepcion  with  grain,  returning  in  ballast  to  Valparaiso 
to  load  with  foreign  manufactures  for  the  various  ports  of  the  republic 
rhe  exports  are  taken  away  in  foreign  vessels,  and  consist  of  copper,' 
hides,  wool,  hemp,  and  plata  pina.  About  sixty  thousand  quintals  of 
copper  are  exported  from  Huasco,  Coquimbo,  and  Valparaiso  annually  • 
one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred  thousand  quintals  of  100  lbs  in 
copper  ores  are  shipped  annually  to  England,  and  one  hundred 
thousand  marks  of  8  oz.  in  bar  silver.  The  returns  from  sales  of 
English  goods  are  made  mostly  in  bullion. 

Thirty  thousand  hides  are  exported,  principally  from  Valparaiso 
Five  to  six  hundred  quintals  of  wool  are  shipped  annually  from  Con- 
cepcion. The  grain  and  country  produce  are  generally  sent  to  Peru 
and  Guayaquil.  Very  little  silver  is  coined  in  the  country,  dollars 
oeing  an  article  of  merchandise,  worth  from  seven  to  nine  per  cent 
according  to  the  supplies  from  Bolivia  or  Peru.  From  eight  hundred 
thousand  to  one  million  silver  dollars  come  annually  from  Cobija  to 
Valparaiso,  and  are  shipped  thence  to  England.  Gold  coins  are  issued 
from  the  mint  at  Santiago,  doubloons,  half,  quarter,  and  eighth  doubloon 
pieces ;  the  current  value  of  the  ounce  is  seventeen  dollars  twenty-five 

VOL.  li  26 


I 


CHILI. 


The  annual  imports  into  Chili  and  Peru  have  averaged— 

From  England, $6,000,000 


the  United  States, 
France, 
Germany, 
other  quarters, 


Total, 

The  returns  from  Chili  are  in— 


l,500,00f/ 
600,000 
50C,000 

2,000,000 

910,600,000 


Copper  and  copper  ore, $2,000,000 

^"""'"'- 1,800,000 

Hides,  wheat,  hemp,  wool, .^qo  000 

Bullion  and  dollars,  received  in  payment  for  goods 
sold  for  other  ports,  and  transported  to  Valparaiso, 
for  United  States  and  Europe,       ....  1  700  000 

'^°^^' $6,200^ 

Tha  revenue  of  *]rn  government  is  largest  from  commerce: 

The  custom-house  receipts  are  fully 
Tobacco  and  wines,  monopolies  of  government, 
Diezmos,  or  tithes,    .... 
Alcavales,  or  internal  sources  of  revenue,  . 

Making  a  total  of      .        ... 


$1,000,000 
400,000 
600,000 
200,000 


92,200,000 


The  ordinary  expenditure  is  about  $1,800,000. 

The  number  of  foreign  vessels  employed  in  the  trade  is  about  two 
hundred  and  seventy,  the  same  vessels  arriving  generally  twice.  They 
are  of  the  following  nations : 


English, 

American, 

French, 


90 
80 
70 


Hamburg,  Dutc/i,  and  Sardinian, gO 

Mexico,  Coloubia,  and  Sandwich  Islands,    .        ..."        10 


Total, 


270 


The  population  of  Chili  may  be  estimated  at  one  million  two  hun- 
dred  thousand. 

Santiago  contains  about  sixty  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  one  of  the 
few  South  American  capitals,  perhaps  the  only  one,  that  is  increasing 
m  wealth  and  population.  It  has  various  private  seminaries  for  both 
sexes,  a  national  institute  or  college,  on  a  liberal  footing,  an  extensive 
..ospital,  a  medical  college,  and  a  military  academy.  The  Congress 
meets  on  the  1st  of  June,  every  year,  when  the  President  delivers  his 
message. 


CHILI. 


203 


Valparaiso  numbers  thirty  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  one  of  the 
most  flourishing  seaports  in  the  world.  Its  population  has  quintupled 
within  the  last  twenty  years,  and  it  is  rapidly  advancing  in  every 
improvement,  growing  out  of  an  increasing  foreign  commerce,  and 
the  enterprise  of  its  inhabitants,  fostered  and  encouraged  as  they  are 
by  government. 

The  mining  districts  are  to  the  north,  and  the  grain  country  to  the 
south.  Extensive  flour-mills  are  now  at  work  in  Concepcion  and  its 
neighbourhood:  the  machinery  is  brought  from  the  United  States. 

The  recognised  internal  national  debt  is  about  $2,000,000,  of  which 
sum  8800,000  is  consolidated,  bearing  an  annual  interest  of  from  two 
to  SIX  per  cent.  The  government  was  about  to  consolidate  the  re. 
mainder,  when  their  attention  was  called  to  other  expenses  abroad. 
The  foreign  debt  is  a  loan  from  England,  taken  in  1822,  of  £1,000,000, 
with  the  interest  now  due,  will  not  fall  far  short  of  $8,000,000. 

There  is  very  little  variation  in  the  climate.  During  what  is  called 
the  wmter,  when  the  rains  prevail,  between  the  1st  of  May  and  the  1st 
of  ^September,  the  thermometer  occasionally  falls  for  a  few  hours  to 
52°,  but  the  mean  of  it  throughout  the  year,  n*  mid-day,  would  be  65". 
During  the  dry  season,  from  September  to  Vlay,  the  thermometer  at 
times  reaches  78°  to  80°.     In  the  evening  and  morning,  it  is  at  60°. 

Fruits  are  abundant  in  their  season:  apples,  pears,  apricots,  necta- 
rmes,  plums,  peaches,  cherries,  &c. ;  figs,  grapes,  strawberries,  oranges, 
limes,  and  every  variety  of  vegetable. 

The  present  administration  is  composed  of 

General  Joaquim  Prieto,  President:  term  of  office  five  years;  eligible 
for  a  second,  but  not  a  third  successive  term. 

Don  Joaquim  Torconal,  Minister  of  Foreign  Relations,  end  Acting 
Minister  of  the  Hacienda,  or  Treasury. 

Don  Ramen  Cavareda,  Minister  of  War  and  Marine. 

Don  Mariano  Egaiio,  Minister  of  the  Interior  and  Justice. 

EXECUTIVE  COUNCIt. 

The  President  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  Justice, 

The  President  of  the  High  Court  of  Appeals, 

The  Reverend  Bishop  of  Santiago,  and  Apostolic  Vicar, 

A  General  of  Division, 

The  Minister  of  the  Estanco,  or  Government  Monopolies, 

Two  Ex-Ministers, 

Two  Judges,  and 

A  Secretary  of  the  CouncFi. 


I 


204 


CHILI. 


Th^  SENATE 


Consists  of  nineteen  members,  elected  for  five  years,  representing 
ten  provinces.  '^  * 


THE  HOUSE  OF  DEPUTIES 

Consists  of  eighty-tvvo  members,  elected  for  three  years,  representing 
thirty-five  departments.  ® 

Foreigners  require  ten  years'  residence  to  obtain  citizenship,  if 
unmarried;  six  years,  if  married;  three  years,  if  married  to  Chilenos. 

According  to  present  calculation,  the  militia  force  of  the  republic 
reaches  forty-five  thousand:  forty  battalions  of  infantry,  eighty 
squadrons  of  cavalry,  and  eleven  companies  of  artillery. 

THE  ARMV, 

Agreeably  to  the  constitution,  in  time  of  peace  consists  of  three 
thousand  men:  eight  companies  of  foot  and  horse-artillery,  two  regi- 
ments  of  cavalry,  and  three  battalions  of  infentry. 

bFFICERS. 

One  Major-General, 
Eight  Colonels, 
Twenty  Lieutenant-Colonels, 
Twenty-five  Majors. 
Thirty.four  Captains, 
Nine  Adjutants, 
Tvver;y.one  Lieutenants, 
Sixteen  Sub-Lieutenants, 
Two  Surgeom-in    'lief. 

THE  NAVY 

eight  guns.  '^  ''''  ^''^  ''"^^^"''  '^'"'^  ^""^'  ^'^''''''  Colocolo, 

OFFICERS. 

One  Post-Captain, 
Two  Commanders, 
One  Lieutenant  of  Marines 
Three  Pursers. 

The  late  war  with  Peru  has  increased  both  the  army  and  navy  to 


CHILI. 


205 


the  following,  in  round  numbers:  eight  thousand  troops,  six  thousand 
of  whom  are  stUl  in  Peru,  but  about  to  return ;  two  thousand  in  ChS' 
with  officers  complete,  all  under  the  command  of  General  Bulnes 
nephew  of  the  President.  "uines. 

The  navy,  increased  by  capture  and  purchase,  consists  of,  and  now 
in  service,  four  ships,  two  brigs,  two  schooners,  and  a  new  forty.four 
gun  frigate,  expected  daily  from  France.  ^ 

re^an7it"  "?'  ''^^  ^''''"^""''  ^^^O.  the  President,  in  his  message, 
resigned  the  extraordinary  powers  conferred  upon  him.  and  recom 

tTmeh'V  "k'"'°"  ''l""'  '''"''  ^°  ^  P^^^«  establishment.  Since  Zt 
time  he  has  been  succeeded  by  his  nephew.  General  Bulnes,  who  from  al 

Tom  rrVt  '^^t"P"n '^"  ^"'  P^P"'^"^^  '^  ^^'-d  -  ^^ 
brom  G.  G.  Hobson,  Esq..  United  States'  Consul  at  Valparaiso,  and 

our  countrymen  resident  there,  we    received    every  kindness   and 

ZTZirVrZf'""  T/r^^'  "''''  informant:  Lt! 
the  coun  ry     To  .he  former  I  feel  myself  under  many  obligations  for 
his  great  kindnesses,  and  the  attention  he  gave  to  our  business! th  warm 
interest  he  took  in  the  Expedition,  and  the  manner  in  whlh  hlfo^ 

To'h^  7f  Tr  'f  "'^'  ^"  P^^^"""^  '^^  necessarrsupplt: 
To  h  m  I  feel  bound  to  acknowledge  my  indebtedness  for  mu  h 
va  uable  information,  and  the  many  agreeable  hours  spent  in  his  faZy 
will  long  be  remembered.  He  not  only  stands  deseLd  y  h  I^^^^^^^^^ 
our  countrymen,  but  has  the  respect  and  high  consideration  of  the 
Chilian  government.  An  American  cannot  but  feel  proud  of  such  a 
representative  abroad.  ^  "  ^ 

Our  departure  from  Valparaiso  was  delayed  for  some  days,  owing 
to  the  non-arrival  of  the  Sea-Gull,  and  the  prevalence  of  north  wTd! 
and  calms  together  with  fogs.  These  often  prevent  vess  Is  Tom 
sailing  in  the  winter  season. 

During  this  time,  one  morning  as  the  fogs  lifted,  a  brig^was  disco 
vered  ma  dangerous  situation  near  the  beach  of  Concont  Zts  were 
immediately  despatched  to  her  relief;  she  proved  to  be  the  EnXh 
brig  Superior;  the  master  was  found  dead  drunk  on  his  cabin-flo 
She  was  towed  to  the  anchorage,  and  placed  in  safety 

Lieutenant  Craven  was  left  at  Valparaiso,  to  take  command  of  the 
Sea-Gull  when  she  should  arrive.  After  a  delay  there  of  some  months 
he  joined  the  Pacific  Squadron,  and  was  transferred  to  the  ScTooner' 
Boxer  Lieu  enant-Commandant  Nicholson,  which  vessel  made  str"c 
search  for  the  Sea-Gull  in  all  the  places  she  could  have  possibly  "e 
with  disaster.  ,n  conformity  to  the  orders  of  Captain  Clack  2n  .n 
command  of  the  Pacific  Squadron.  '      "  '" 

I  cannot  resist  the  opportunity  when  speaking  of  Lieutenant  Craven. 


I 


206 


CHILI. 


to  refer  to  his  praiseworthy  conduct  in  being  instrumental  in  saving  the 
crew  of  the  Chilian  vessel  of  war,  the  Monteguedo,  that  ame  near 
being  lost.  By  his  exertions,  seconded  as  they  were  by  the  officers  of 
H.  B.  M.  ship  Fly,  they  were  rescued  from  a  watery  grave.  It  gave 
me  great  pleasure  some  time  afterwards  to  receive  the  highly  compli- 
mentary notice  of  it  by  the  Hon.  J.  K.  Paulding,  then  Secretary  of  the 
Navy,  which  will  be  found  included  in  Appendix  XXXIV. 

On  the  17th  of  May,  the  United  States'  ship  Falmouth,  Captain 
M'Keever,  arrived  from  Callao ;  and  it  is  with  much  satisfaction  and 
pleasure  I  refer  to  my  meeting  and  acquaintance  with  this  officer, 
whose  liberal  views,  and  the  aid  rendered  the  Expedition,  were  of 
essential  service  in  forwarding  our  duties.  The  manner  in  which  the 
aid  was  given,  rendered  it  doubly  welcome. 

As  before  mentioned,  the  Flying-Fish  arrived  on  the  10th,  havmg 
left  Orange  Harbour  on  the  28th  of  April,  in  company  with  the  Sea- 
Gull.  At  midnight,  the  Sea-Gull  was  last  seen.  Shortly  afterwards, 
it  began  to  blow  in  strong  squalls,  and  rapidly  increased  to  a  gale ;  by 
half-past  eight  of  the  29th,  it  was  "blowing  furiously."  At  one 
o'clock,  False  Cape  Horn  was  made  under  the  lee,  when  Passed 
Midshipman  Knox  determined  to  run  for  a  harbour.  At  4  p.  m.  they 
anchored  under  the  south  point  of  Scapenham  Bay,  where  they  dragged 
their  anchors,  and  were  obliged  to  remove  to  Orange  Bay.  There 
they  anchored,  and  rode  out  the  remainder  of  the  gale,  which  lasted 
with  violence  until  the  morning  of  the  1st  of  May,  on  which  day  they 
again  took  their  departure,  and  shortly  afterwards  fell  in  with  a 
whaler,  who  seemed  not  a  little  surprised  to  find  a  New  York  pilot-boat 
off  the  Cape,  and  to  have  an  interrogatory  put  to  him,  to  know  if  he 
wanted  a  Cape  pilot. 

Although  I  felt  some  uneasiness  about  the  Sea-Gull,  I  did  not  appre- 
hend that  she  had  met  with  accident  The  time  that  has  since  elapsed, 
and  the  careful  search  that  was  made,  leaves  no  doubt  of  her  loss,  and 
a  strong  belief  that  all  on  board  perished  in  that  gale.  Nothing  since 
that  time  has  been  heard  of  her.  How,  or  in  what  way,  disaster 
happened  to  her,  it  is  impossible  to  conjecture.  I  had  the  greatest  con- 
fidence in  the  officers  who  had  charge  of  her ;  they  were  both  well 
acquainted  with  the  management  of  the  vessel.  Their  loss  and  that 
of  the  vessel,  were  a  great  disadvantage  to  the  Expedition,  which  was 
felt  by  me  during  the  remainder  of  the  cruise,  these  vessels  being  well 
calculated  for  the  southern  seas,  particularly  in  the  low  latitudes,  though 
much  exposed  in  boisterous  weather. 

They  were  principally  intended  to  be  engaged  with  the  boats  in 
surveying  operations,  and  were  well  adapted  to  that  service. 


CHILI. 


207 


Messrs.  Reid  and  Bacon  were  among  the  most  promising  young 

ormancfrrT^'r'  "'.'  ""  ^^'^«'"«'^  -"  '^'-^^'^^  '-^  "f 
persZ  "'^  '"  '^'^  ^■'^^^'-     '^''^  "«^  «°"-«t«d  of  fifteen 

Gotro'r  Reid  of  ri'"  u  '''  "^^  ^^'^  "'^^  ^^«  -"  ^^  ^^e  late 
"rrLe     's  p?mtr    1^7^^  "^'"  «/ Georgia,  and  enter.. 

Expedit.n  in  ^^:::^%^;.,  f:  re::rd^:ft  t^Sf 

rg::t:i;3r^^^"^^^^  ^^  ^^^  Expedition.  pre.o.  to%aiC' 

Mrril2'''H'''"'"  F-^--k  A.  Bacon,  entered   the  service  in 
Ma)    1832.    He  was  a  native  of  the  State  of  Connecticut,  where  his 
h  ghly  respectable  relatives  reside.     He  joined  the  Expediti;n  in    838 
ar.d  was  attached  to  the  Sea-Gull.  previous  to  leaving  the   United 

hi^fhl^r  ^T5  '^''"  ''''""«^'  ""'^  '^'"^  '"^^  '^'  Expedition  a 
high  character,  and  during  the  short  period  which  they  were  attached 
.o  It.  they  were  distinguished  for  their  devotedness  ^to  the  a  duous 
semce  m  which  we  were  engaged.  Their  deportment  was  that  oi' 
ardent  and  zealous  officers,  and  of  upright  and  correct  gentlemen 
Mr.  Bacon  left  a  widow  and  one  child 

In  the  family  of  Mr.  Reid  there  has  been  a  remarkable  fatality 
dunng  our  absence.    His  respectable  father,  the  Governor  of  Florida 
and  three  or  four  other  members  of  his  family,  have  since  died. 

Dunng  our  stay  at  Valparaiso,  the  Chilian  army  was  daily  ex 
pected  to  arrive  from  Peru,  and  all  were  rejoicing  over  Us  success 
All  opposition  to  the  existing  administration  had^died  away  "le 
manner  m  which  the  government  of  Genera!  Prieto  had  carried 
hrough  Its  plans,  both  of  war  and  peace,  had  m:t  with  he  apTro- 
bat  on  of  all  parties.    One  of  the  first  acts  of  the  government  was  to 

rondTctldt  '•'''''\''^T''  ''"^'  ^°^^°"^'  -^  °^h-    -  0 
Z^tL':"^^^^^^^^^^^  to  the 

themselves  i,l  used  by  it.  discfuLgTIn  aL'^Jts  t^^lt  r;:i^ 
ferring  to  suff-er  themselves,  rather  than  be  instrumental  in  prod^dnt 
changes.  Attention  was  now  paid  to  the  building  of  cuslm-hou  es 
and  other  public  works  at  Valparaiso,  and  elselhere.  T^e  whole 
seemed  to  have  given  a  fresh  impulse  to  every  thing  in  Chili.  Those 
S  trs  TnV^b  ^"  '^"'''"'  '''''  «'^bility'of  the%overnmen?ioS 
^l^Z::^:;^::::^'''  -^P— ^^^^  ^^ppiness  and 
The  Congress  met  on  the  1st  of  June,  when  the  President  delivered 


I 


Mt 


CHILI. 


his  annual  message,  resigning  the  extraordinary  powers  with  which  he 
had  l)eon  clothed  in  January,  1837.  All  Chili  will  bear  testimony, 
foreigners  as  well  as  native  born,  that  in  no  one  instance  has  he 
abused  them,  but  so  conducted  himself,  and  his  administration,  as  to 
entitle  him  to  the  thanks  and  rewards  of  a  grateful  country. 

(>hili,  with  such  rulers,  and  so  moderate  and  energetic  a  government, 
must  rise  rapidly  in  the  scale  of  nations. 


OX-OART. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


CONTENTS. 

WANT  OP  CORRKOT  HISTORICAL   HECORDS-O  HIOOINS   DECLARED   SUPREME  DICTA 
TOR-RESIGNS   IN    Ifl-a-COUNCIL   OP  STATE   APPOINTED-^JENERAL    FREYRE   LANDS 
AT   VALPARAISO-ARREST  OP  O'HIGOINS-IIIS  RELEASE-<;ENERAL  RAMON  FREYRE 
ASSUMES    THE    GOVERNMENT- RETIRES    TO    PRIVATE    LIFE  -  ADMIRAL    BLANCO 
PRESIDENT-nLANCO   HKoIONS-SUCCEEDED  BY  VICEPRESJDENT-III8  RE8IGNATION- 
FKEVRE  AGAIN  CHOSEN  PRE8IDENT-FREYRE  RESIONS-PRIETO  BKCOMES  PRESIDENT 
-RESIGNS-PRESIDENT  OF    lilE  SENATE  ACTS-ELECTION  HELD-PHIETO  ELECTED- 
REPUSE8  TO  SERVE-VICUNEA  PRESIDENT  OF  SENATE-TROUBLES-JUNTA  APPOINTED 
-CIVIL  WAR-ABANDONMENT  OP  THE  CAPITAL-FREYRE  CALLED  IN-J0IN8  THE  PRE- 
SIDENT'S PARTY-BATTLE  OF  I.IRCAI,  APRIL,  IKW-DEPEAT  OF  FREYRE-IIIS  BANISH- 
MBNT  TO  PERU-NEW  ELECTION-DON  FRANCISCO  TAOLE  RETURNED  AS  PRESIDENT 
-OVALLE  AS  VICEPHE8IDENT-BOTH  RESION-PRESIDENT  OF  SENATE  AGAIN  ACTS- 
NEW  ELECTION-GENERAL  PRIETO   ELECTED,  JULY,  183I-STATE  OP  THE  COUNTRY- 
IIIS   ADMINISTRATION-DIEGO   P0RTALEB-SY8TEM  OP   REFORM-MILITIA  SYSTEM - 
ESTABLISHES  PUBLIC   CREDIT-CIVIL   RULE-TRANSACTIONS  WITH  PERU-RATIFICA- 
TION OF  TREATY,  AND  RECEPTION  OP  MINISTER-CIVIL  WAR  IN  PERU-IEPEAT  OF 
8ALAVERRY-NEW  ORGANIZATION  OP  PERUVIAN  GOVERNMENT-RUPTURE  BETWEEN 
CHILI    AND  PERU-SECRET  EXPEDITION   UNDER  GENERAL   FREYRE -INTELLIGENCE 
OP  IT  RECEIVED  IN  CHILI  -  ACTIVITY  OP  GOVERNMENT  -  CAPTURE   OP   FREYRB- 
HIS    SECOND    BANISHMENT -POPULARITY  OP  THE   ADMINISTRATION  -  SEIZURE    OP 
PERUVIAN   VESSELS -SUSPENSION  OP  HOSTILITIES-CONVENTION— CHILI  REFUSES 
TO  RATIFY  THE  PROCEEDINGS -CHILI  SENDS  HER  FLEET-CHILI  DECLARES  WAR 
-EXPEDITION   ORGANIZED -DECREE  OF  PRESIDENT  PRIETO -EXPEDITION  FPfTED 
OUT   UNDER   ADMIRAL    BLANCO  -  TROOPS   QUARTERED   AT   aUILLOTA  -  PORT  ALES- 
INSPECTION  OP  TROOPS -HIS  ARRE^T-VIDAURRE'S  MUTINY-ACTA    OP  OFFICERS - 
NEWS   REACHES  VALPARAISO-CONSTERNATION-CONDUCT  OP  MILITIA-VIDAURRE'S 
DEMANDS -P0RTALE8'    NOBLE  CONDUCT  -  VIDAURRES   ATTACK   ON   VALPARAISO - 
HIS  DEFEAT  AND  PLIGHT-PORTALES'  DEATH-VIDAURRE  CAPTURED   AND  BROUGHT 
TO    VALPARAISO -TRIAL    /ND    EXECUTION  -  EXPEDITION    SAILS    TO    PERU  -  ITS 
FAILURE -TREAT\    OP   PAUCARPATA- EXPEDITION   RETURNS -BLANCO    DEPRIVED 
OP  HIS  C0MMAND-nULNE3-NEW  EXPEDITION-ITS  DEPARTURE. 


8a 


(909) 


CHAPTER   XI. 

POLITICAL   HISTORY    OP   CHILL 
1839. 

Op  the  early  political  history  of  Chili,  we  found  it  difficult  to  obtain 
any  correct  information.  There  is  no  publication  existing  at  this  date, 
which  furnishes  any  satisfactory  account  of  the  republic  in  its  first 
struggles  to  establish  itself. 

Nearly  all  the  principal  actors  in  its  busy  scenes  are  yet  living,  and 
not  so  advanced  in  age,  but  they  entertain  hopes  of  a  change  from  day 
to  day,  that  may  restore  them  to  power  and  importance.  These, 
together  with  the  factions  that  were  connected  with  them,  watch  with 
anxiety  every  turn  of  public  opinion;  and  with  one  or  the  other  of 
them,  most  of  the  educated  Chilians,  who  alone  are  capable  of  giving 
an  account,  are  more  or  less  identified. 

For  this  reason,  only  partial  statements  can  be  obtained  from  any  of 
them.  Those  who  keep  aloof  from  party,  are  too  timid  to  express  'any 
opinion  on  political  subjects,  as  it  might  involve  them  in  difficulty. 
The  few  foreigners  whose  long  residence  in  the  country  would  enable 
them  to  furnish  facts,  are  so  biassed  by  their  prejudices  towards 
different  administrations,  that  no  dependence  can  be  placed  upon  their 
statements.  The  inequality  of  rule  of  the  Chilian  administrations 
makes  it  difficult  to  follow  their  history,  and  one  is  left  to  the  barren 
sources  of  information  afforded  by  government  proclamations,  and  the 
official  reports  of  the  day,  always  more  or  less  erroneous  and  exagge- 
rated, in  favour  of  the  ruling  party.  Under  these  difficulties,  it  wilfnot 
be  surprising  if  the  following  outline  of  its  history  for  the  last  twenty 
years,  should  in  a  few  particulars  be  erroneous;  it  is,  however,  believed 
to  be  correct,  having  been  drawn  from  sources  that  are  most  to  be 
relied  on  and  entitled  to  credit,  and  that  were  at  the  time  attainable. 

After  the  battle  of  Chacubuco  and  Maypo,  in  which  O'Higgins 


212 


POLITICAL    HISTORY    OF   CHILI. 


commanded,  ho  was  unanimously  proclaimed  Supreme  Director  of 
Chili,  iii  April,  1817.  He  continued  to  fill  the  situation  until  1S23, 
when,  in  consequence  of  his  allowing  great  abuses  to  exist  in  the 
subordinate  branches  of  government,  and  not  listening  to  the  respectful 
remonstrances  sent  him  from  all  quarters  of  the  country,  a  meeting  of 
the  principal  inhabitants  of  the  capita!  and  neighbourhood  took  place 
at  the  town  hall. 

The  subject  was  discussed  freely,  and  his  deposition  was  determined 
upon.  It  was  agreed,  however,  to  notify  him,  for  few  men  were  more 
esteemed  than  O'Higgins.  He  received  the  commission  conrtoously, 
and  when  satisfied  tliat  they  really  expressed  the  voice  of  the  people, 
he  without  hesitation  resighed  his  power,  and  departed  for  Valparaiso, 
with  the  intention  of  proceeding  to  Peru.  A  council  of  state  was 
named  by  the  assembly  at  Santiago,  composed  of  three  distinguished 
citizens,  until  the  supreme  power  could  be  disposed  of. 

When  O'Higgins  arrived  in  Valparaiso,  he  found  Genera!  Ramon 
Freyre  had  landed  from  Concepcion,  with  three  hundred  men,  having 
come  up  from  the  south  to  depose  him. 

Although  the  latter  was  no  longer  in  his  way,  he  arrested  him  on 
the  plea  of  making  him  '^ive  an  account  of  his  administration.  This 
step  was  not  popular.  1  he  .funta  in  Santiago  directed  his  release,  and 
ordered  Freyre  to  furr.ish  him  with  the  necessary  passport.  This  was 
done  in  the  most  complimentary  manner;  and  this  distinguished 
individual,  admitted  by  all  to  be  the  first  soldier  of  his  country,  de- 
parted for  Peru,  without  complaint.  There  honours  were  showered 
upon  him  as  testimonials  of  his  worth,  and  what  was  far  better,  the 
Peruvian  government  gave  him  a  hacienda. 

He  still  li,  -'^  in  Lima,  respected  by  every  one,  not  having  engaged 
in  politics  since  his  retirement  from  Chili.     He  has  been  invited  back, 
but  refuses  to  come.    He  was  succeeded  by  Ramon  Freyre,  considered 
as  the  champion  of  liberal  institutions,  who  was   nam.ed   Supreme 
Director   and  Captain-General,  31st  March,  1823.     He  resigned  in 
July,  1820,  retiring  to  private  life,  after  a  popular  rule.     His  opposition 
to  O'Higgins  is  justified  by  its  being  said  that  he  was  left  to  perish 
from  want  of  supplies  to  his  troops  on  the  frontier.     Though  he  had 
been  constant  in  his  representations  of  the  fact  to  O'Higgins,  he  had 
leen   neglected,  and   was   compelled   to   appear   himself  and  claim 
attention.     There  is  believed  to  be  much  truth  in  this— O'Higgins 
having  many  corrupt  creatures  about  him,  who  are  said  to  have  been 
the  cause  of  it.     Freyre  is  much  respected,  though  not  considered  a 
man  of  talent.     He  never  mixed  in  public  life  after  the  resignation  of 
his  dictatorship,  unless  when  called  on  as  a  mediator. 


POLITICAL    HISTORY   OF   CHILL  313 

in  ttio„'\^„dT  "r  ""'''  "^"^'^  ^'•^^•^«"'  ^y  »he  Congress  then 
one  of  2  V        T  r  ^^"'''"  ^'^'^"'"^  Vice-President.     bLco  was 

out  the  country  inrrea^H  ■  ,1,.      k  i  ™*'7"''  "e  clamours  through- 
|.arty  behind  puS  Tt  :       T  ''°''*"''°  "'=  "  "">"»""'"'•  » 

hoZ^cr::;irie'™:.t  f  tr-r--  -""  -  •'■■' 

pointed,  and  the  country  was  pTontnt      „""  ^artte''cr'  ^'^ 

;ion  prevailed  in  the  capita, ,  „;ders  wet  rXed  aUhf  S  oXe" 
from  the  J„„,a  and  from  the  acting  President   bo  h  ll  "f 

representatives  of  the  oeonlf     In  il,r  "°"°™''  ""'h  claiming  lo  be 

under  General  Pril.o,''a;ptched    heX"  '7\  dVT'T  •™^' 
Junta.     The   troops   in  the  city    unde     r.        ,,     ""'^"^  '"'  *" 

themselves  suhjec;  ,„  ,„e  ordtV*:  Pre  £  ftt:' ^ 'tf 
armies  met  on  fh«  field  nf  nni,o„„  •  ,    .  "'^^-     The 

-as  shed.    Both  pa"ts°c,  °^^^S:icTot'tr.fra'  T  "  "''"  "" 
convention  was,  however,  entered  into,td  Fr^  ,  waTar'"''  „  1 
forward,  ,o  aid  in  restoring  tranquil  i,y  to    he  conn  ry*    nTh 
sattsfaetory  grew  „u,  of  this  arra„gLe„[    Trer^ZZ  ZTj 


214 


POLITICAL    HISTORY    OF   C  H  I  L  T. 


Le^Hor  r°"^P  "?.  ""''^  ^"^  ""'^''^  '^  captain-general;  but 
instead  of  returmng  to  his  family,  started  off  to  join  the  party  of  the 
President  m  Valparaiso,  setting  himself  in  opposition  to  the' Junta  and 
calimg  upon  all  the  officers  to  join  him.  Unfortunately,  some  of  the 
foreign  officers  did  so.  He  embarked  from  Coquimbo  with  troops 
and  thence  proceeded  to  the  south,  landed,  and  was  met  at  Lircai  by 
General  Pneto's  army,  on  the  17th  April.  1830,  when  Freyre  was 
en  .rely  defeated.  This  offence  resulted  in  his  banishment.  MosTo 
the  foreign  officers  were  killed;  it  is  said,  after  they  had  surrendered 

Ihe  elections  now  went  forward;  Don  Francesco  Tagle  was  re- 
turned  President,  and  Don  Tomas  Ovalle  as  Vice-Presideft :  boffi  ex- 
ten  ive  land  proprietors  and  respectable  men.    The  first  soon  resigned 

ZlZTu  .  n  ""'  ""^  '^^  ^^""^«  ^'^^^d  ""til  «l««tions  were 
again  held,  when  General  Prieto  was  returned  President,  July  14th, 
1831.  and  continued  to  hold  the  office  at  the  time  of  our  visit 

whilh  r'''  ^''".^'''"'  '^'  ^'''''y  "^  '^'  ^^^'''^'  administrations 

h  xve  bar.  "  .  i  k'  "'"'''''  ''''''  '''  ^^P^^^^-"  f--  Spain,  that  all 
have  been  directed  by  a  common  spirit  of  advancement  to  the  country. 
All  their  decrees  prove  this,  and  under  any  one  of  ffiem,  had  thev 
TZSTf^X^-'::  ^"^^"^'^^  years,  it  would  have 'prospered 
oroveS  "I  ^''^  ^^'  "  ''  ^^^' ''''  '"^^  «f  the  population!)  are 
proverbial  for  their  apathy,  and  disposed  to  submit  to  authority  w  thout 
questioning  us  origin,  the  main  error  of  the  early  administatln  wa 
heir  extensive  enlty  towards  political  offenders,  whose  turbulent  spTri 
and  restless  ambition  no  clemency  checked.    The  impunity  with  wh 

nd  theZT"."'™'  '"  ^'^^'^  ^"^^'^"^^  after  repeated  pardon 

gove  nme"  ^lo'd  '  Z'  "'"  'T'^'  ^P^'^'^"^'  ^'^'^-^^  themes  o 
government,  no  doubt  operated  to  produce  the  sudden  and  frequent 

matui'iif;"""^"''  '^^^^^  ^^y  -«  °f  them  had  had  timTto 
mature  plans  of  improvement  or  organize  a  system  of  legislation  or  a 
mode  for  the  proper  administration  of  laws.  A  want  of  ene2  and 
resolution  of  purpose  encouraged  factions  to  hope  for  su  cess  in  thefr 
a  tempts  to  gain  the  ascendency.  Imaginary  abuses  weirchaS 
home  against  each  successive  ruler,  and  the  country  was  a  presto 

tiuTst;  whe  "^l;'^  '''''  ""'T''  ''''^'''  --  ^  great'e.  or  less'dej 

?  ',  .  i  '  P'"'""'  administration  came  into  power.  Its  course 
was  totally  different  from  its  predecessors.  It  adopted  at  on  e  the 
most  energetic  measures  to  establish  order;  introduced  a  necessarv 

T:7'Zf  rTr'  ^'"^  ^"^  ^^^  ^-^^'-^  '^'  -  ^^e  counter  s 

It  was  not  diverted  from  its  purpose.     It  went  on  reformin<.  abuses 
nipping  revolution  in  its  bud.  and  banishing  the  most  refracto^;  1^71' 


POLITICAL    HISTORY    or   CHILI.  ^IS 

salutary  terror  awed  the  ,nany  factions,  and  pursued  vigorously  its 
career  of  improvement  in  every  branch  of  government.  No  one  felt 
disposed  to  give  it  credit.  All  its  acts  were  ascribed  to  one  or  other 
0.  the  former  parties.  Every  one  spoke  of  them  as  being  proposed 
projected,  or  introduced  by  O'Higgins,  Freyre,  or  Pi^o.^for^ernt' 
that  their  good  intentions  were  never  carried  out,  and  that  it  was  the 
abuses  permitted  by  them  that  led  to  civil  war.     The  present  aTminis 

beneficially.  Its  vigilance  never  slept;  and  the  parties  which  occa- 
sionally  showed  symptoms  of  movement,  have  at  last  made  up  their 
minds  to  come  into  the  fold  of  good  citizens.  ^ 

The  actual  president  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  was  General  Joaquim 

bu  wL  ZVTuTu^f  P''"'^'  ^'^^'•'^^^^'•'  ^""  «^  benevolence, 
but  who,  no  doubt,  had  he  been  left  to  the  direction  of  his  own  feel- 
ings and  judgment,  at  several  periods  of  his  official  career,  would  by 
hs  mistaken  lenity  have  brought  upon  his  government  the  fate  of  a  1 
the  preceding  ones.    Fortunately  for  the  lovers  of  order,  he  had  for 

Poll  s'""  r°;J'  '^"'  "  ---^-o^— nd  the  interior,  Diego 
Portales,  one  of  those  master  spirits  a  country  but  rarely  produces  - 
man  whose  early  life  was  engaged  in  commerce,  but  who'Lthe  p'rot 
gress  of  revolutions,  evincing  more  than  ordinary  ability,  became  a 
oromiiient  politician,  and  eventually  one  of  the  leading^^,  n  o'he 

to  become  the  head  of  a  party,  and  soon  gained  such  an  ascendency, 
that  they  abandoned  themselves  to  his  guidance.     He  might  have 
obtained  the  presidency,  had  ordinary  ambition  directed  Hul,    b" 
impel  ed  by  a  more  noble  one,  he  chose  to  attach  himself  to  the  ad- 

ZITT.  T  ""'5u'''.  '"'"'''''''  '"  '''^'''  ''  «"t««1"«nt  events 
proved,  that  he  might  be  better  able  to  carry  out  the  plaL  he  medi- 
tated. He  possessed  a  resolution  in  his  political  career  which  never 
swerved  from  what  he  conceived  his  duty,  or  what  he  thought  the 
interests  of  his  country  required.  He  had  the  unyielding  temper  of 
a  reformer;  and  never  was  one  more  wanted  in  any  country  He 
recommended  the  establishment  of  a  militia  system,  with  a  view  to 
check  every  future  n^ilitary  interference  in  the  government ;  and  when 
lUvas  opposed,  on  the  ground  that  it  would  only  endanger  the  peace 
of  the  country  to  place  arms  in  the  hands  of  the  people,  he  answered, 
No  !  depend  upon  it,  the  only  way  to  secure  permanent  order,  is  to 

n  \^ZV!^"  ^'"P''  ""^''^  '""J^  ^'  ^"'i^^^'^  °"  their  side;  and 
If  this  should  declare  against  the  government,  it  would  be  evidence 
enough  that  it  ought  no  longer  to  rule,  for  such  a  power  should  consist 
of  the  best  portion  of  the  population  of  the  country.     The  first  object 


216 


POLITICAL    HISTORY    O  F   C  H  I  L  I. 


must  be  to  counteract  m.luary  iufiuence;  for  it  too  frc.iuently  happens 
amongst  us.  that  when  we  .„ako  a  colonel,  and  give  him  a  regiment, 
his  aspirations  soon  extend  to  supreme  command  " 

His  counsel  was  listene<l  to:  a  militia  system  was  organized;  the 
army  was  reduced;  numerous  generals  and  other  officers  were  struck 
off  the  list;  the  number  of  civil  ollicers  in  the  various  depart.nents  was 
dnninished,  salaries  cut  down,  and  the  most  rigid  economy  observed  in 
every  branch  of  the  government.     Sotting  an  example  of  unwearied 
mdustry  m  the  discharge  of  his  duties,  he  exacted  from  those  under 
urn  a  strict  performance  of  theirs.     He  corrected  abuses  which  had 
d.e  countenance  of  time  for  their  practice ;  he  aroused  his  countrymen 
irom  the.r  mdo  ence ;  corruption  ceased,  persons  were  selected  to  fill 
office  from  their  fitness,  and  not,  as  formerly,  from  family  influence. 
His  mihtia  system  worked  admirably  ;  it  produced  a  feeling  of  order 
among  a  population  notoriously  irregular  in  their  private  habits  and 
domestic  economy ;  It  became  a  national  guanl,  exercising  a  certain  kind 
o  police  over  the  whole  land.    Indeed,  all  his  energies  were  called  into 
play,  to  improve  and  advance  his  country ;  roads  were  planned  to  open 
commumcations  to  the  coast,  from  sections  abounding  in  agricultural 
wonl  h  but  remote  from  the  s.aboard.    He  set  about  raising  the  n  bhV 
credit  by  husbanding  the  revenue,  so  as  to  enable  it.  after  cfnsolid'^  , 
domestic  and  foro  gn   debt,  to  appropriate    a  certain   amount,  firsl 
owards  the  periodical  payments  on  account  of  interest,  and  tL  to 
effect  an  arrangement  with  the  English-bond-holders.    For  the  latter 
purpose,  an  agent  was  named  to  proceed  to  En-rland 
To  accomplish  such  radical  changes  great  p^erseverance  and  firm- 

Portair'Tt"'"''-  •"'.  *'"*^    "^^""'^    ^'"'"-^^.^  characterized 
Po  tales     It  IS  surprising  how  well  he  adapted  his  march  to  the  actual 

ate  of  the  country,  and  its  prejudices  of  education.     He  supported 

the   clergy,   to   obtain   their  instrumentality   as   a   moral   powc"   o 

srengthen  t  e   government,  knowing  that  otherwise  they  woll , 

hey  frequently  had,  become  its  most  formidable  opponents.     All    h 

fanned  they  could  establish   a   refined  system   of  governmen    over 
an  une  ucated  and  prejudiced  mass  of  men  like  the  ChiliansTa  po 
lation  that  had  but  a  few  years  emerged  from  a  political  s  a t eZ  e 
diflerent  from  that  of  Europe  in  the  middle  ages,  whose  p  edU  ct  ^ 

ourl  w1r2  '  "'""  '^''l'  :"^  ^'^^"Se  by  an  increasing  intc^: 
course  with  nations  more  enlightened  than  themselves,  and  who 
gradually  and  almost  imperceptibly  yield  to  such  an  influence 

This  government  came  into  power  after  military  rule  had  been  in 
possession  of  authority  almost  ever  since  the  nation  became  inSepel- 


POLITICAL    HISTORY    OF  CHILI.  gj, 

dent      It  had  been  the  custom  to  consuJt  ,nilitary  men  on  every  change 
of  government;  the  rivalry  of  generals  conse,«entIy  kept  up  aLnstan 
n  hitnTL ^^^^^^^^  A  government,  to  eitablis'h  civil  rule  Lp"  m 

.n  the  land,  and  m  order  to  have  its  laws  obeyed,  would  be  obli^d  to 
exercise  more  severity  with  it  thnn  n..„  .^  ">  woma  oe  oDliged  to 
callpH  fnr     P    ♦         •  pre-existmg  circumstances  had 

caled  for  Portales  incurred  the  sole  odium  of  this  severity.  His 
activity  and  energy  were  ever  present  and  before  the  public.     He  had 

out  tn.s  system  of  reform,  but  he  did  it  fearlessly.  No  selfish  feelinr, 
^•emed  to  actuate  him.  His  enemies  admit  that'^his  dLlrestS 
was  extraordmary,  and  that  neither  himself  nor  his  familTwere  ben 

spirit,  the  growth  of  revolution,  would  occasionally  show  itself-  but 
he  government  instantly  crushed  it,  and  sent  the  offenders  out  of  h 
A  r;  ^'r     ""'^^^«^^"'l'«g  was  sought  with  foreign  powers 

A  treaty  was  effected  with  Mexico,  and  one  with  the  United  States 
and  a  mission  to  accomplish  one  with  Peru,  sent  up  brPresTden; 
Orbejoso  was  met  with  confidence.     Unfortunately,  when  the  ratifi 
c    .on  of  the  latter  was  about  being  exchanged,  a  military  re  olt    roke" 

cCinJhel'  r  '  '^  '  '^^'''"^'  ^'''"^'^'-y'  which  Lcceeded  in 
duving  the  legal  government  from  Lima,  and  established  one  there  of 
which  Salaverry  declared  himself  supreme  chief. 

The  Chilian  government,  too  anxious  to  complete  the  treaty,  which 
was  advantageous  to  the  two  countries,  sent  it  to  Peru,  and  exchrn^ed 

T^ITZ  "f  '''?""^'  ^'^  ""''  '"' '''  ^'-  ack;ovld;ed  to 
he  de  facto  ruler,  as  far  as  decrees  and  possession  of  the  caphal  went 

n    h.s  view  of  the  case.  Chili  had  an  undoubted  right  to  con      dlh 

eaty  and  to  expect  that  it  would  be  observed.    The  ratification  of 

U.e    reaty  by  Salaverry  was  followed  by  his  sending  a  ministe    to 

wa  'st'  i  t7'  '^r'""'^^  °^  ^^^  ^«^--  government  (rbeoso's 

"  d  n!   h!:"  V  T  ^"'"  '^^'"  ^''^'^'^  ^--  ^he  ---de  - 

standing  that  occurred  on  the  restoration  of  Orbejoso's  government 

which  was  effected  through  the  intervention  of  the  President  of  BoH  "a 
General    Santa   Cruz,  who  had   been   called    upon   by  Orbejoso  for' 

o  the  Peru-Bohvian  Confederation,  and  the  naming  of  Santa  Cruz 
us  Supreme  Protector  for  life,  by  assemblies  convoked  by  him,  and 
the  appointment  of  Orbejoso  as  President  of  North  Peru 

ret^^ned  f,'"  "'"T'  ""TT'  "'"  '"  P'*'^''"-^^'  ^^'^«i-'>'  who  had 

rriv^^  uTu  '^'  ^''^ '  '''  ^''^^-^y^'  hnmediately  on  his 

amval  annulled  the  trenty  witi.  CM,  with  no  other  notice  to  the 

lat^r  government  than  the  public  decree,  by  which  she  w-as  informed 

VOL.  1.  X  28 


21R 


POLITICAL    HISTORY    OF   CHILI. 


Iliiit  four  months  were  allowed  her  to  renew  it  or  not,  otherwise  it 
would  be  of  no  effect. 

Chili  took  umbrage  at  this  abrupt  mode  of  proceeding,  and  allowed 
Ihe  time  to  pass,  when  both  governments  restored  the  former  retalia- 
tory duties  on  their  respective  products. 

Santa  Cruz  framed  a  new  commercial  code  for  Peru,  and  among 
its  articles,  was  one  imposing  double  duties  on  all  vessels  touching  at 
any  Chilian  port,  before  going  to  Peru.     This  measure  was  odiou? 
to  Chili,  and  was  considered  as  evincing  unfriendly  feelings.     Whilst 
Chili  was  in  the  full  tide  of  prosperity,  and  attending  to  her  own 
internal  regulations,  the  administration,  satisfied  that  all  was  quiet  at 
home,  appears  to  have  been  utterly  regardless  of  the  course  things 
were  taking  in  Peru.     President  Prieto  at  this  time  was  re-elected  foi 
a  second  term,  upon  which  General  Ramon  Freyre,  the  former  director 
of  Chili,  but  for  some  years  banished  the  country,  and  living  in  Peru, 
set  out  with  a  few  other  exiled  Chilian  officers,  on  a  revolutionary 
adventu'-e  to  Chili.     Embarking  in  two  Peruvian  government  vessels, 
hired   from    Orbejoso  ostensibly   for  a   trading  voyage  to    Central 
America,  his  real  intention  was  to  proceed  to  the  south  of  Chili,  and 
make  a  descent  upon  the  coast.     He  entertained  the  expectation  of 
being  joined  by  the  old  military,  and  other  dissatisfied  persons,  and 
was  in  hopes  of  finally  establishing  himself  again  in  power.    Some  few- 
days  subsequently  to  Freyre's  departure  from  Lima,  the  Chilian  consul- 
general  hearing  of  it,  despatched  a  fast-sailing  vessel  to  apprise  his 
government.    The  vessel  had  a  very  short  passage,  and  the  intelligence 
took  the  government  entirely  by  surprise.     They  were  wholly  u°ipre- 
pared  for  an  attack  from  any  quarter.     Their  only  armed  vessel  was 
a  small  schooner,  and  this  was  employed  at  the  time  to  bring  the 
electoral   returns   from   Chiloe.     The   intelligence,  however,   caused 
government  no  alarm.     With  a  promptitude  characteristic  of  Portales' 
system,  which  was  now  fairly  established,  a  dismantled  brig-of-war 
was  rigged,  a  crew  shipped,  and  made  ready  for  sea  in  four  days. 
Gun-boats  were  armed,  and  every  precaution  taken  to  guard  against 
surprise.     At  the  same  t^me  the  government  received  tenders  of  service 
from  people  of  property  and  itsfluence  throughout  the  whole  republic, 
and  few  felt  any  doubts  that  the  result  of  the  affair  would  be  in  favour 
of  the  government. 

Soon  after,  the  largest  of  Freyre's  vessels,  with  some  of  his  best 
officers  on  board,  was  brought  in  by  her  crew,  and  delivered  up.  It 
was  ascertained  that  the  rendezvous  was  to  be  Chiloe.  No  time  was 
lost  in  sending  off  the  prize,  with  a  good  equipment,  to  decoy  Freyre. 
if  possible.     He  was  found  in  possession  of  Chiloe.     The  stratagem 


POLITICAL    HISTORY    OF   CHILI.  gig 

vrsei?:r;Sl;"Th'''";r'  r^^^  '""  prisoner,  and  the  other 
vessels  as  pnzc.     Thus  ended,  in  the  short  space  of  two  months  an 

ever  had.     Though  possessing  still  many  friends  in  the  country  he 
found  h,mself  a  prisoner  and  not  a  voice  raised  to  his  rescue     Hi! 
hfe  was  considered  forfeited,  as  he  had  been  banished  by  the  nresen 
government,  and  had  come  to  introduce  anew  all  the  hoLrs  of  civ" 
war  mto  a  peaceful  country.      The  recollection  of  his  disUn'uishld 
services  to  the  nation  in  times  past,  his  having  with  honou    to  h  msei? 
and  credit  to  bs  country  filled  its  highest  office,  and  no  doubt  Tome 
sympathy  for  h.s  changed  situation,  obtained  for  him  the  clemency  of 
the  government.     He  and  his  adherents  were  again  banished,  anT  no 
person  connected  with  him  otherwise  punished.      He  was  also  ner 
mmed  to  see  his  family  frequently  during  his  confinemenr  ''" 

1  he  result  of  this  attempt  had  the  effect  of  strengthening  the  adrr.; 
nistration.     People  of  property  and  respectability.^veToV  opposi 
parties  ralhed  around  it:  a  satisfactory  proof  that  there  was  abve  oJ 
order  nsing   and  that  the  supremacy  of  civil  rule  would  no  Ton'r 
submit  to  changes  effected  by  arms.  ^ 

In  the  meanwhile,  circumstances  seemed  to  justify  the  belief  of  th^ 
connivance  of  the  Peruvian  government  in  Freyre's  plan      It  hL  1 
notHied  by  the  Chilian  cons'ul-general,  a  few  Cs'aL      e  t  Ss 
sailed,  of  the  true  object,  of  the  voyage,  and  there  was  still  tre  to 
prevent  Freyre's  success.     They  shuffled  out  of  the  aff^      Z  ^l 
earning  that  the  consul-general  was  despatching  a  vessel  t^ '"form 
•s  government,  they  put  an  embargo  on  the  Jort  of  Cal Lo     The 
vessels  however    had  sailed  before  the  order  reached  the  port     on 
understanding  which  the  embargo  was  immediately  raised.  ' 

place,  and  afforded  conclusive  evidence  that  the  Peruvian  government 

roTocoirr'  I"  ^'^  ''''•     ''''  ^^•"^"  --^^  ^'  warSs  and 

^ddenlv'o n?    r""-P^^^^^^^     '^  ''"  ««^^^""^-'''  ^^  ^^-P^^ched 
suddenly  on  secre  service.     A  confidential  agent  accompanied  them. 

They  went  to  Callao,  and  seized  upon  three  Peruvian  vessels  of  wT 

po^^er  of  a  government  which  had  proved  itself  so  unfriendly.     This 
being  done,  the  vessels  were  taken  over  to  the  island  of  San  Lorenzo 
nd  anchored  under  the  guns  of  the  Chilian  vessels.     The  Chilian  ci",' 
age.it  demanded  explanations  respecting  Freyre's  expedition.     Before 

onceivlTt^T"'  ^''''  '''''""'"'  ^'''''^'^  «"  shore,  at  what  was 
thTt  !h  r.^-  '"  ''"'''^'  "gainst  civilized  nations;  for  it  was  said 
that  the  Chilian  vessels  had  entered  under  the  guise  of  friendship,  and 


220 


POLITICAL    HISTORY  OF   CHILI. 


while  partaking  of  the  hospitality  of  a  nation  at  peace  with  their  own 
had  basely  taken  advantage  of  it  to  insult  the  country.  The  Chilian 
consul-general,  when  the  news  first  reached  Lima,  was  subjected  to  a 
short  arrest.  Finally,  matters  settled  down,  and  the  parties  agreed  to 
discuss  the  subjects  of  complaint  on  board  the  English  sloop-of-war 
Talbot.  Santa  Cruz  sent  one  of  his  principal  officers,  and  a  conven- 
tion was  agreed  upon  for  the  suspension  of  hostilities  on  both  sides  for 
the  term  of  four  months.  The  Peruvian  vessels  were  to  remain  in 
possession  of  the  Chilians,  and  no  warlike  preparations  during  the  time 
were  to  be  made  by  either  party.  Santa  Cruz  disavowed  any  partici- 
pation in  Freyre's  plans,  and  expressed  his  willingness  to  pay  Chili  the 
expenses  of  suppressing  the  attempt.  He  also  bound  himself  to  the 
performance  of  his  part  of  the  convention,  leaving  the  Chilian  agent 
subject  to  the  approbation  of  his  government,  and  assured  him  of  his 
earnest  desire  for  a  good  understanding  with  Chili. 

The  vessels  returned  to  Chili,  a  diplomatic  agent  of  Santa  Cruz 
accompanying  them.     The  Chilian  government  refused  to  ratify  the 
convention  when  informed  of  it,  and  proceeded  in  the  most  active 
preparations  for  fitting  out  all  the  captured  Peruvian  vessels.     At  this 
time  it  might  have  dictated  any  terms  to  Santa  Cruz,  who  was  anxious 
to  secure   his  newly-acquired  power.     Chiii,  however,  had  no  confi- 
dence in  him,  and  prepared  for  the  coming  struggle.     Santa  Cruz's 
minister  returned  to   Peru.     He  was  followed  by  the   Chilian  fleet, 
having  a  high  diplomatic  agent  on  board,  with  the  government  sine 
qua  non,  viz.,  the  abandonment  of  the  Confederation,  and  the  restora- 
tion of  the  independent  sovereignties  of  Peru  and  Bolivia.    Santa  Cruz 
refused  to  receive  a  minister  attended  by  an  armed  force,  which  had 
the  appearance  of  a  menace.     In  vain  did  the  Chilian  minister  offer  to 
send  them  away,  and  remain  in  the  smallest  vessel  of  the  squadron, 
saying  the  latter  was  merely  to  guard  against  a  repetition  of  Freyre's 
expedition.    Nothing  was  done.    The  Chilian  minister  returned  home, 
and  Chili  then  declared  war  against  the  Confederation,  on  the  12th  ot 
December,  1836.    Freyre's  attempt  had  been  crushed  in  August,  183G. 
Chili  became  sensible,  too  late,  of  her  error  in  not  protesting  at  first 
against  the  armed  interference  of  Santa  Cruz  in  the  affairs  of  Peru ;  by 
not  doing  which  die  tacitly  assented,  and  thus  encouraged  him.     But, 
occupied  with  her  internal  concerns,  she  heeded  little  what  was  passing 
around  her,  and  had  not  Freyre's  expedition  been  fitted  out  in  Peru, 
Santa  Cruz's  plans  of  government  would  have  been  unmolested.     She 
felt  too  late  that  no  confidence  could  be  placed  in  her  new  neighbours. 
Determined,  therefore,  on  his  downfall,  an  expedition  against  him  was 
planned,  composed  of  naval  and  land  forces ;  and  numerous  banished 


POLITICAL    HISTORY    OF   CHILI.  yg, 

Peruvians  living  in  Chili  wore  permitted  to  join,  who  formed  them- 
selves ,nto  a  separate  body,  under  General  Lafuente,  a  distinguished 
I  cruv.an  revolutionist.  The  first  ill  effects  of  a  revival  of  a  military 
spmt  m  Ch.h  were  now  experienced.  As  before  mentioned,  one  of  the 
reforms  of  the  government  was  the  reduction  of  the  army  to  a  number 
barely  sufficient  to  protect  the  southern  frontier  against  the  Indians. 
To  create  a  force,  therefore,  it  became  necessary  to  raise  recruits  in 

IZl  TTl  ^T^""""  '^''"^  '"  '''''''"'  S'-^^t^d  extraordinary 
powers  to  the  Pres.dent,_a  very  necessary  step  to  give  effect  to  exe- 
cutive  decrees. 

P  ??  ^^'"°^V,"°.''  ^  ♦'■^"^'^tion  of  a  decree  of  the  President,  issued  bv 
Portales.  as  Mmister  of  the  Interior,  at  the  breaking  out  of  the  war:  * 

Department  of  the  Interior. 

In  consequence  of  the  power  that  the  43d  and  82d  articles  of  the 
(-onstitut.on  have  conferred  upon  me.  I  have  well  considered  and 
approved  the  following  resolution  of  the  National  Congress. 

1st  He  who  has  been  condemned  to  remain  in  a  particular  part  of 
the  Republic,  or  exiled  from  it  by  the  judicial  sentence,  and  for  the 
crime  of  sedition,  conspiracy,  and  riot,  will  suffer  death  if  he  breaks 
his  conhnement  or  exile. 

•  T'a  i".''^^^^^'^'"  P^^-t  «f  the  Republic  any  one  of  the  criminals 
•ncluded  in  the  foregoing  article  may  be  apprehended,  without  the 
limits  that  have  been  assigned  to  him,  the  authorities  will  seize  and 
shoot  h.m,  w.thm  twenty-four  hours,  without  any  other  proofs  than 
may  be  necessary  to  identify  the  person,  and  without  suffering  any 
appeal  to  a  higher  authority.  ^      ^ 

3d  The  present  law  will  begin  to  act,  respecting  all  those  who  are 
expe  led  the  Republic  for  the  crimes  which  are  expressed  in  the  first 
article. 

On  this  account  I  direct  it  to  be  promulgated,  and  to  take  effect  in 
all  parts,  as  a  law  of  the  state. 

Santiago,  January  28th,  1837. 

Inasmuch  as  the  National  Congress  has  declared  the  state  to  be  in 
actual  war  with  Peru,  and  in  consequence  clothed  the  President  of 
the  Republic  with  all  the  necessary  powers  that  his  prudence  may  find 

trnT7.  .  n  ''^^'"7  '*■  '^"^  ''''''  ^''h^"'  ^"y  «ther  limiiation 
than  that  he  shall  not  condemn  or  give  punishment  of  his  own  will,  but 
leave  these  to  be  judged  by  the  established  tribunals,  or  those  which 
this  present  government  may  hereafter  establish.    In  consequence  of 


939 


POLITICAL    HISTORY    OF   CHILL 


the  authority  conferred  upon  me,  I  promulf^ate,  by  tlio  nrticles  forty- 
third  and  eighty-second  of  the  Constitution,  sanction,  approve,  and 
order  the  foregoing  decree  to  bo  made  public,  through  the  press. 

Prieto. 

DiKGO  PoRTALES. 
Santiago,  Slat  January,  1837. 

This  decree  did  not  fail  to  renew  the  complaints  of  old  parties 
against  the  government  as  despotic,  &c.     To  carry  on  the  war,  part 
of  two  battalions  of  a  veteran  regiment  from  the  south  arrived  at 
Valparaiso,  under  the  command  of  Colonel  Vidaurrc,  a  brave  and 
distinguished  officer.     They  were  ordered  to  Quillota,  where  recruits 
were  to  join  them,  imtil  the  regiment  should  be  full,  and  where  they 
were  to  be  drilled  and  disciplined,  for  embarkation.     Vidaurre  was 
appointed  head  of  the  staff  of  the  army,  under  Admiral  Blanco  Enca- 
lada,  commander-in-chief.     A  regiment  of  one  thousand  four  hundred 
men  was  soon  completed,  and  reported  to  be  in  fine  order.    The  navy, 
composed  of  seven  vessels,  was  ready  to  sail.     At  this  time  Portales, 
being  minister  of  war,  came  to  Valparaiso,  to  hasten  the  departure  of 
the  expedition,  and  to  give  his  personal   inspection  to   its   materiel. 
Vidaurre  was  his  protege,  and  an  invitation  to  a  ball,  said  to  be  about 
being  given  in  Quillota,  sent  by  Vidaurre,  was  accepted  by  Portales, 
who  intended  going  there  to  examine  the  condition  of  the  troops.     At 
the  same  time,  he  determined  on  carrying  Vidaurre  his  epaulettes  and 
promotion  as  brigadier  and  chief  of  the  staff.     On  the  afternoon  of  the 
3d  of  June,  1836,  Vidaurre  ordered  the   troops  into  the  square  for 
Portales'  reception.     When  all  were   assembled,  Vidaurre   made   a 
signal ;  some  soldiers  advanced,  surrounded  and  seized  Portales,  who 
was  not  allowed  to  say  a  word,  but  was  hurried  to  prison,  and  heavy 
irons  put  on  him.     An  acta,  or  declaration,  was  drawn  up  and  signed 
by  about  forty  officers,  all  subalterns,  containing  the  usual  phraseology 
of  such  documents,  about  tyranny,  injustice,  suffering  country,  &c.    A 
servant  of  Portales  escaped  unseen,  and  brought  the  astounding  intelli- 
gence to  Valparaiso,  soon  after  midnight,  creating  the  greatest  conster- 
nation.    It  was  naturally  supposed  that  an  officer  of  Vidaurre's  energy 
and  character  would  push  for  Valparaiso  without  delay.     If  he  had 
done  so,  he  could  have  taken  it.     Alarm-guns  were  fired,  and  before 
daylight  the  militia  were  under  arms,  and  not  long  after  the  squadron, 
consisting  of  some  seven  vessels,  were  hauled  towards  the  Almendral. 
In  the  course  of  the  day,  some  few  hundred  men,  sent  by  Vidaurre, 
were  met  and  repulsed  by  a  body  of  militia.     Not  long  after,  a  flag  of 
truce  was  sent  to  the  town,  demanding  the  delivery  of  the  "  Port"  and 
vessels,  threatening,  in  the  event  of  a  refusal,  to  execute  Portales,  and 


'OLITICAI   HI8TOBV    OPOHILI. 

e"crromt'z,r°:  T'"-  'y"°  "  "^ '° ''''""'°''  '^•''^'  '^Z 

rablo.     No  ccfaion  „as  ob  crvo,     „  !,^?  Valpara„o  wore  adrai- 
manifelcd  by  every  oje    of    hi  °  ''"'°°'°''  "'"""'J'  »"» 

cau,e  of  order     t1  f2  ef"""'™'.  ""J  cilten,,  to  aid  (he 

papers,  »"-   loo:!:,X!rd:hrSli' ZI'  BlloTh""""," 

o'clock  i„  .irl  „•„"  H  *!'  ™'"'"«'  -f  "'0  Port,  aboat  ,„o 
compelled  .0  fTl  S'  ^iTjf  '"  TT  "  """""""'  "■«  ""  »- 
Blanco.  The  ^ol^or  Jl|  vld" ''''*°''  °"'. '"■■'"=""'  ''J"*'''"'"! 
chief,  followed"  him  :;■  »  it,^' t™'!  ".7'"  "'"'^  "'™''"""°'" 
Vidaurre'.  troop,  seattoLr  h        ,  ''  '"  "  ^"""P'""^  "'"f"". 

his  s,ep.so„,  who  »as  i„  the  1  ,  „tr  "por.ale  w""'''  """  ''u"'''"'' 
ironed,  had  lii.n  taken  o„l  »i,k  K-  °'  '"  "  »&  heavily 

being  m.i  ,y  tLt::s:;.^L  t;rt:7  w^'  f  "•  M-  - 

various  parts  of  his  body,  which  t^v  I  ft    n  /h  '/'  ^'■"'"'''^'  "' 

thirty-five  wounds  Th/ J  •?  ^  '"  ^''^  '°^'''  ^^^^red  with 
soldiers  we  e  eft  withou  ZT  "".'""1  ^'^^""^hout  the  day;  the 
,uarte..s,  wheriteTt:  nt  raL  l'^^  ott  ""^"^'  "  ^^^^^  ^'^ 
days    elapsed    before   Vidaurre   an^  hi  ;«g™«"ts.     Some 

Although  a  feeling  of  ho  ro  pervld  ''''^""P'":^^  ^^^^^  ^^^en. 
Portales,  yet  the  most  Trfer^nH         .   *^«  f  "^'"'^ity  at  the  fate  of 

on  his  e;ami„.ir  oM  at    fts  oI;°".'^"^^^  ^^"''""^'^-  ^«'^*'- 
ment  had  been  en;o:;^i7b;r„;^    ^^^'^  ^ 
could  only  be  inferrpd  fh.*  I      ^  ^     r        ^^^  country.     In  fact,  it 
second  sLlenJ  ''''  ''  "^.^  ^'"^'^--  ^^  P'^X  the  part  o/  a 

Order  triumphed  most  completely.     The  miHth  h.  i 
on  its  side,  and   increased   Ifidnce  was         in  1""'"'  '"'' 
though  there  were  not  wnntin^  c  l  ^"®  government, 

fall,  now  tha.rwas°d°  p"  '"o'f  uZZtf^^t'T''  V"^''  ^°™- 
was  replaced  by  a  .uef,  mora  r  ^3^  |e  pe'rTorr'"'-,  JL'""" 
a  man  characterized  as  the  I>J Q^^LZt:^^^^^  ,t '"T"' 
scrupulous  than  himself.  The  aovemmen.  Z„aT  u^  ^  '"" 
buUheloss  sustained  in  the  ^ef th  Tp^Kst' ^rbL^Te 


224 


POLITICAL    HISTORY    OF  CHILI, 


Stood  alono ;  ho  worked  for  his  country  ;  and  his  fato  was  most  un 
nrterited.  Dooply  did  ovory  true  friend  of  Cliili  deplore  it.  Ho  haa 
taught  that  the  civil  authority  could  bo  made  supreme,  and  he 
will  have  one  of  the  most  consjjicuous  places  in  the  history  of  Chili. 
He  was  in  the  prime  of  life,  about  forty-two  years  of  ago,  unmarried, 
and  at  no  period  were  his  services  more  required.  His  energy,  how- 
ever, seemed  to  have  been  imbibed  by  the  whole  administration,  and 
no  abatement  took  place  in  the  preparations  for  war. 

Viduurro  and  his  officers  were  tried  by  a  court-martial  held  in 
Valparaiso,  and  condemned  to  be  executed.  Twelve  were  shot,  the 
rest  were  banished.  This  was  the  first  execution  of  such  a  sentence 
for  political  offences  that  had  ever  occurred  in  Chili.  Some  pretended 
to  bode  ill  from  it,  but  its  eflects  so  far  have  boon  salutary ;  and  these 
desperate  characters  will  not  be  so  much  inclined  to  run  headlong  into 
revolutionary  movements  after  seeing  the  fruits  of  it. 

The  expedition,  composed  of  three  thousand  men,  finally  sailed,  and 
disembarking  at  Islay,  proceeded  to  Arequipa,  the  second  city  of  Peru, 
of  wh'ch  they  took  possession.     Santa  Cruz's  troops  retired  to  the 
interior.    Lcfuente  was  here  proclaimed  Supreme  Chief,  according  to 
prescribed  forms  in  such  cases  provided,  and  set  about  organizing  his 
government,  filling  offices  without  a  real  of  revenue,  or  any  source 
from   which  he  could   raise  any.    No  disaffected  Peruvians  joined 
them,  and  their  situation  became  very  critical,  as  Santa  Cruz  was 
concentrating  his  forces,  and  threatened  to  cut  oflT  the  communication 
with  their  ships.     Thus  hemmed  in,  they  would  have  been  obliged  to 
surrender  at  discretion.     These  advantages  were  possessed  by  Santa 
Cruz,  and  the  Chilians  saw  no  way  of  escape.     Why  Santa  Cruz 
should  have  lost  this  opportunity  to  strike  a  decided  blow,  is  incon 
ceivable.     He  did,  however,  waive  it,  and  proposed  to  treat.    Commu 
nications  passed  for  some  days.    Santa  Cruz's  •rmy  augmenting  daily, 
was  now  double  that  of  the  Chilian  general,  who  seemed  to  have  no 
alternative  but  submission.     Still  he  put  a  brave  countenance  on  the 
affair,  and  signed  at  Paucarpata  a  treaty  with  Santa  Cruz,  having 
previously  held  a  council  of  war,  which  was  attended  b}  f'  e  minister 
plenipotentiary  which  the  Chilian  government  had  sent  wnh  the  9X- 
pedition.     There   was   no   voice   raised    against  the  '  .>  u      It    .as 
honourable  to  the  Chilians,  and  saved  their  whole  army.     Festivities 
followed,  after  which  the  Chilian  forces  embarked  and  returned  home. 
Neither  the  government  nor  the  people  were  satisfied.     Blanco  landed 
secretly,  and  was  received  coldly.    The  President  refused  to  ratify  the 
treaty      If  v,'as  considered  disgraceful,  as  the  object  of  the  war  ha<l 
not  be«f;  j/auied,  and  singularly  enough,  the  war  now  became  popular 


POLITICAL    HISTORY    OF   CHILI.  235 

With  all  partioH.  Tho  arn.y  landed  in  perfect  order.  Illanro  was 
deprived  oj  Ins  ro.nmand,  and  a  co,.rt-mnrtinl  ordered.  Tl,e  troops 
were  aga.n  sent  to  Q„ill..,,.  „„,  „.o  greatest  en.husiasn.  scen.ed  to 
prevad.     A  new  and  n.orc  f.n    ,idable  expedition  was  .letennined  on; 

troL      T  '  •'"  ^'■■"^"'''""'•^  "^'''''°^^'  ^^ho  connnnnded    the 

troops  on  the  n.n.  .s,  and  was  known  as  a  hold  dashing  olHcer,  w«. 

wT :'  n    ""'T'T';  ''"'^  ^''"^'«'''  ''^  «---'-^  '-d;fo.e. 

Tnd  e  '  ;  r'  "'"  ""  ""  ""'""'""'  <^-l.s,  great  financial  dillicultie.s. 
mid  eventually,  revolution.  Still  tho  govennnent  moved  steadily  on! 
S  X  thmwand  men  were  soon  go,  together,  well  otlicered.  well  equipped, 
a  d  th  a  nnhtary  chest  well  filled.  It  is  generally  believed  th.-  the 
church  made  a  loan  to  the  government  for  this  war.  and  it  i.  said  that 
It  possesses  one-e.ghth  of  the  landed  property  of  the  country.  This 
second  expedition  sailed,  confident  of  success.  No  loans  ueJe  asked 
or  by  government,  nor  any  funds  other  than  tt.e  ordinary  revenue 
ed  yet  no  account  remained  unpaid.  This  was  and  continues  to  be 
he  marvel  of  every  one.     The  greatest  regularity  was  observed  in  all 

the  dealings  of  the  government  agents;  no  complaints  of  extortion  or 

abuses  were  heard.     The  internal  atliiirs  of  the  country  went  onTs! 

no  war  existed      Improvements  were  not  neglected ;  lighthouses  built ; 

.oads  unproved ;  an.l  no  interruption  took  place  in  the  usual  operation 

of    the  fathers  of  Peruvian   revolution,  grown   gray  in    the   service 
Lafuente  went  as  his  adjunct,  though  he  had  onfe  Lule  a  re  olXi 

exiles,  leady  to  bleed  their  country  to  its  last  gasp.  Ili-rh-soundinir 
words  of  patriotism,  oppressed  country,  self-devotion.  £c.  1  i 
f  om  them  in  most  extravagant  terms.  From  their  loc  1  inf.  rmation 
■t  was  expedient  for  the  Chilians  to  have  them,  but  if  considered  as 
a  constituent  part  of  the  army,  they  were  like  fire-brands  Bnes." 
P  ain  blun  soldier,  t  was  thought  would  use  no  ceremony  wi  h "  ! 
of  them  If  he  found  them  troublesome,  which  those  who  knew  tl  2 
characters  thought  would  bo  the  case. 

The  remaining  part  of  the  operations  of  the  Chilian  army  in  Peru 
wdl  be  treated  of  when  I  give  the  sketch  of  the  history  of  that  rountr;: 


VOL.  I. 


STIRRUPS,  SPURS,  ETC,  OP  CHILI. 

2d 


'  • .- 1/ 


'        ■  ">  1 


CHAPTER  XII. 


CONTENTS. 

PORPOISE   .^AILS-ASTRONOMICAL  OBSERVATION'S -DIFFICULTIES  OP  L-^AVINO   THE 
BAY-RE«ULAT,OXS   OP   PORT   lUDLY  OBSERVED -CONDUCT  OF  THE   CAPTAIN   OF 
"AMBURG   VESSEL-DEPARTURE-PART  COMPANY   WITH   PEACOCK   AND  TENDER- 
EVENTS   ON   PASSAGE   TO  CALLAO- ZODIACAL  LICHTS-MAKE  THE  COAST  OF  PERU 
-TEMPERATURE    OF    WATEI.  -  ENTER    BOUaUERON    PASSAGE  -  ANCHOR    AT   SAN 
LORENZO-GEOLOGICAL  STRUCTURE   OF   ISLAND -BURVINGGROUND- ARRIVAL  OF 
FALMOUTH-CAPTAIN    M'KEEVER-HIS   KINDNESS-DESERTERS-^ONDUCT  OF  CRFW 
OP   RELIEP-PUNiSHMENT-EFPECTUAL  SUPPRESSION   OF  SUCH  CONDUCT  -  COURT 
MARTIAL-JUSTIFICATION-CHANGE  OP  ANCHORAGE  TO  CALLAO-HEIGHT  OF  LIMA- 
MOLE-CALLAO -VESSELS   IN   PORT-CASTLE-DESCRIPTION   OP  HOUSES  -  RELIGIOU. 
PRACTICES-MARKET-REVIEW  OP  TROOPS-OLD  CALLAO-EPFECTS  OP  EARTHaUAKE 
-VAULTS  FOR  DEPOSITING  THE  DE^D-POPULATION  OP  CALLAO-POURTH  OP  JULV 
-ROAD  TO    LIMA-DEVASTATIONS-BELLA   VISTA-APPROACH  TO  LIMA-ENTRANCE 
AND   APPEARANCE-ITS    PLAN-AMUSEMENTS- -SAVA   AND   MANTA-ITS   PRIVILEGES 
-DESCRIPTION    OF   IT-HOU.ES  -  PORTALES   OR    ARCADES-PALACE- FOUNTAIN - 
CATHEDRAL-CRVPT-NOVEL    HEARSE -MARKET-CONVENT  OF   SAN   FRANCISCO 

LIBRARY-SIGNATURE  OP  PIZARRO-POUNDING  OF  L.MV-THEATRE-NAVAL  SCHOOL- 
CLASSES  OP  NATIVES-POPULATION-NEWSPAPERS-HAND.BILLS-FESTIVAL-CORPU. 
CHRISTI-MR.  MATHEWS-MANUPACTORIES-PESTIVAL  OP  ST.  JOHN'S-AMANCAES- 
CELEBRATION-EARTHQUAKES-EFFECTS  PRODUCED-45ATEWAY,  NAVAL  SCHOOL- 
CLIMATE -RAIN- ME  AN  TEMPER  ATURE-HEALTH-RIMAC-IRRIGATION-HARVES-- 
CHILIAN  ARMY-STATE  OP  THE  COUNTRY-MANNER  OP  RECRUITING  THE  ARMY- 
TREATMENT  OF  SLAVES-DEATH  OF  BENJAMIN  HOLDEN-SMALL-POX-PRECAUTION^ 
ADOPTED. 


(897) 


CHAPTER   XII. 


PERU. 


1839. 

On  the  26th  of  May,  the  Porpoise  sailed  for  Callao,  in  order  thai 
some  repairs  might  be  mado  on  her,  which  our  time  here  did  not 
admit  of.  At  Valparaiso  the  weather  was  extremely  unfaxourable  for 
astronomical  observation..  I  had  been  in  great  hopes  of  being  able  to 
obtain  a  scries  of  moon  culminating  stars,  and  occultations"  but  no 
opportunity  occurred,  so  that  I  had  to  content  myself  with  those  for 
rating  the  chronometers,  and  to  connect  this  port  with  Callao.  The 
longitude  adopted  for  Fort  San  Antonio,  was  71°  39'  20"  W.,  which 
is  the  last  determination  of  it  by  King  and  Fitzroy. 

On  the  4th,  we  made  an  ancn,|.rto  get  out  of  the  bay,  but  were 
obliged  again  to  cast  anchor.  At  this  season  of  the  year,  li<Tht 
northerly  winds  usually  prevail,  and  a  heavy  swell  frequeiUly  scts'in 
the  bay,  malnng  the  roa<lstead  very  uncomfortable,  and  at  times  dan- 
gerous. The  vessels  are  too  mucli  crowded,  and  the  regulations  of 
the  port  are  not  suirK-icntly  attended  to. 

I  was  not  a  little  amused  with  the  master  of  a  Hamburg  barque, 
who  dropped  his  anchor  so  as  to  foul  the  berth  of  mv  ship,  and  when 
he  brought  up,  swung  close  alongside.  He  seemed  perfecilv  satisfied 
with  Ins  situation,  and  apparently  knew  little  about  his  business,  show- 
ing all  the  doggedncss  of  his  countrymen.  The  weather  lookin-^ 
threatening,  I  sent  him  word  to  move,  staling  that  in  case  of  a  chanoo 
of  wind,  he  would  be  greatly  injured.  lie  ,|uietlv  replied  that  li^i. 
vessel  was  made  of  teak,  and  that  his  underwriters  or  my  goyernment 
would  pay  his  damages,  and  that  he  could  stand  a  good  deal  of  .nind- 
ing !  Without  more  ado,  I  s.>nt  an  ollicer  and  men,  and  put  him  al 
once  out  of  my  way. 

On  the  Gth,  we  had  a  breeze  fi-..m  the  southward  and  eastward,  and 

(229) 


880 


PERU. 


Zl  r     ,  f  "^*   ."^^  r  "'^'"'^  •'^^  '""^  ^^  '»'«  southward,  my  view 

St  momtrtr"       '  '"  ^'  ''"'^^'""'  ^'"f''"^^  ^hat  still,  and'at  the 
last  moment,  tl,e  m.ssmg  tender  migf.t  heave  in  sight.     But  no  white 
speck  was  seen,  nor  any  thing  that  could  cause  .?  rav  of  hope  th 
she  might  yet  be  m  existence;  and  my  fears  foreboded  what  has  s  nco 
proved  too  truc,-she  and  her  crew  had  perished. 

from"the'nowr''  t^  '"''  '"'""^  Valparaiso,  we  had  a  fresh  gale 
Irom  the  nor  hward.  accompanied  with  much  sea.  Durin^  the  ni^ht 
.nth.ck  weather  we  lost  sight  of  the  Peacock  and  Flving^F  1  'on 
the  9th  we  got  beyond  the  wind,  which  blows  along  the^coas  from 
he  northward,  and  our  weather  improved,  exchanging  fog,  r"n  misT 
and  contrary  wmds.  for  clear  weather,  and  winds  from  th°e  s    U  vv     ' 

lon^tude?;    ;'^^^^^^^^^  variable.      On  the  12.h,  in 

proved  very  unstead;.    te    lle^ry^r:  fort  ^l^^  t^ 

elSn'^  T^:'  ^^"^^^  '-'""  '-''  ^^-"yVarances'alUr'o::;! 
tne  lionzon.  The  sea  was  quite  smooth,  and  the  weather  pleasant 
Dunng  he  days  that  the  trade-winds  were  not  strong,  we  usuaHy  h"d" 
the  W..K1  to  vary  to  the  northward  and  eastward  for  a  fevJ  hours'^ 

On    he  morning  of  the  19th,  the  zodiacal  light  was  quite  brilliant 
esenoblmg  the  a,,rora  borealis,  but  without  its%adiatinyl^o        „' 

cone.     At  ,ts  base  it  was  20-  the  apex  could  not  be  ascertained  on 
account  of  the  intervention  of  clouds.      As  the  dawn  increa  ed    ,h 
cone  grew  broader,  until  it  was  lost  in  the  daylight.     I ts  who  e  dur. 
tion  was  about  forty  five  minutes.     The  stars  we?e  seen    hroi^h  7^ 

ough  covered  with  a  transparent  veil.     On  the  same  day,  w^  f';,;" 
the  temperature  at  bottom,  in  eighty-three  fathoms,  57°,  whilst  at  h 
surface  it  was  63°.     We  were  then  abreast  of  Po  nt  S^r  a  d  S    , 
Lorenzo  bore  to  the  north,  distant  twenty-five  miles.  ' 

On  the  20th,  in  the  evening,  we  passed  through  the  Bououeron 
P    sage,  having  got  several  casts  of  the  lead  in  three  and  a  110 

mmmm 


PERU. 


231 


On  receiving  Uio  reports  of  the  commanders  of  the  diflercnt  vessels, 
activo  oponuions  wore  at  once  begun  to  refit,  replenish  our  stores,  and 
co.npletc  our  duties.  The  necessary  changes  in  officers  and  men  were 
made  m  consequence  of  my  determination  to  send  the  Relief  home. 
This  I  resolved  to  do  on  several  accounts.  I  have  stated  that  from 
he  first  found  her  dl-adapted  to  the  service;  her  sailing  I  saw  would 
letard  al  my  operations,  and  be  a  constant  source  of  anxiety  to  me; 
and  1  iclt  that  I  already  had  objects  enough  without  her  to  occupy 
and  engross  my  attention.  The  expense  was  another  consideration, 
which  conceived  myself  unauthorized  to  subject  the  government  to, 
particularly  as  I  found  on  calculation,  that  for  one-tenth  of  the  sum  it 
would  cost  to  keep  her,  I  could  send  our  stores  and  provisions  to  any 
part  of  the  Pacific. 

We  found  it  necessary  to  have  the  Relief  smoked,  in  order  to  destroy 
the  rats  with  which  she  was  infested,  to  save  our  stores  from  further 
damage.     During  this   time   the   repairs  of  the   Porpoise  had  been 
completed,  and  the  usual  observations  for  rating  our  chronometers,  and 
with  the  magnetic  instruments,  were  made  on  shore;  and  such  officers 
as  could  be  spared  allowed  to  visit  Lima.     The  naturalists  were  also 
busy  in  their  several  departments.     We  remained  at  San  Lorenzo  ten 
days,  during  which  time  its  three  highest  points  were  measured  with 
barometers  at  the  same  time.     The  result  gave  eight  hundred  and 
nine  y-six  feet   for  the   southern,  nine   hundred  and  twenty  for  the 
middle,  and  twelve  hundred  and  eighty-four  for  the  northern  summit. 
Lpon  the  latter  the  clouds  generally  rest,  and  it  is  the  only  place  on 
lie  island  where  vegetation  is  enabled  to  exist.     The  others  are  all 
barr-.n  sandy  hills.     It  is  said  that  the  only  plant  which  has  been 
■•L-ltivated  IS  the  potato,  and  that  only  on  the  north  peak.   This  becomes 
nossible  there  Irc-xi  the  moistm-e  of  the  clouds,  and  their  shielding  it 
■^  hot  sun.  ° 

'        zoological  structure  of  the  island  is  principally  composed  of 

■.  ^lay,  and  slate.     It  presents  a  beautiful  stratification.     Gyp- 

suK    . .  lound  in  some  places  between  the  strata,  and  crystals  of  selcnite 

are  met  \yith  in   one  or  two  localities.     Quantities  of  shell-fish  aiv 

lound  on  the  shore,  and  the  waters  abound  with  excellent  fish 

The  burying.ground  is  the  only  object  of  interest  here.  The  graves 
arc  covered  with  white  shells,  and  a  white  board,  on  which  is  inscribed 
tlie  name,  &c.  They  appear  to  be  mostly  of  Englishmen  and  Amcri- 
cans,  and  it  would  seem  that  the  mortality  had  been  great.  But  when 
one  comes  to  consider  the  large  number  of  men-of-war  which  have 
been  lying  in  the  bay,  and  the  period  of  time  elapsed,  the  number  of 
mterments  do  not  seem  large. 


332 


PERU. 


.•u.nln^on.-o,.o,.a.ions.  vv«  again  oxporieliicl.  ^^ :  e^^    :,  : 
unely  a,,    ho  gave  n.c,  ia  cxchangin,  the  launch  an     f^^      . 
us  sh  p.  for  nu.ter,als  to  build  ..nu.  which  I  had  brought  fron'va  , 
raiso  for  that  purpose,  prevented  our  detention  here.  ' 

Iho  FaiiuoMth  brought  fron,   Valparaiso  tin-ee  deserters  fron.  the 

z:^;;;:;,.: : ""'  'r ''''''''''-'  'y  ^^-"«--  ^--  - 

c   c  ,  '";     "  '■''^"'■''  ^'""'"S  '''^'  ^^vo  of  them,  Blake  and 

^t  tu,  had  been  gudty  not  only  of  desertion,  but  that  thei    desertion 
.acl     eon  attended  with  very  aggravated  circun.tanc  s     jtt      "o 
"as  a  quantity  of  whiskey  for  the  .,ther  ve.s,>I«      Ti  ■  , 

ol    he  squadi.n  would  not  peruut  nie  to  order  a  court  for  their  trial 
vuthout  great  loss  of  tin,e  and  detrin.ent  to  the  service.     To         nch 

p.-eserving  the  pvoper  discipline,  and  "even^:  '  ^'''^'^' ^^^^  ^^ 
ilu.U  xvas  not  disappointed      I    houl  1    .  °  "■Vocurrence.     In 

i.ad  it  not  been  tl  JLs  .L  -iLt^lre  ^  J t  "  ""^T'"' 
'Uto  ,hirty-six  specifications,  on  wlncl  x^c'!  '  ,f  "'''''"''''' '^''' 
afier  an  investigation  of  three  woclr  nr  \\!  ^'"''*''"  uiembers, 
'-VS  of  the  nav;  in  U,    s.  ^:  :^;  "''l' ^"^' V'"'  '""^"^^'^''  "'^' 

-  this  occasiiu could »;:  tfCvet .::;?;;"' •'■'"r'"'-^^ 

'U.V  iustructions  fron.  the  Hon.  .1.  K     '•    Hit    S  ""?  ''"^-^^  "' 

"Ught  to  have  sulliccd  •  "  In   1.      rr      '"  '.'''"''.^f^»-'''ta>-y  of  the  Navy, 
voyages,  vou  will         J.«,nv'  1'     '"""!"'  '.'  ^'^^  '""^  -'d  devious 
nn?ic;^.a,e;i,  an,!    n"'^ '''""'  '"  ^'^"^^^^^  -''-''  <^-u.ot  be 
'•■'  """^'"^"^^y-urownjudgu.enl  and  discre- 


PERU. 


tion,  and  at  oti 


2»3 


ujrs 


-tod.  IaMU>dlysaS^r  .^""«"'^''  ^"d-  tins  I 
which  i„  the  la,  M,aJe  ;  '  .  "'  '"'"  ^'rcumstan.cs  did  occur, 
guide,"  and  I  fuCbeii  ve  that  "'"r-^'''  "''^'  ""''"°-'^y  -y 
•I'e  Kxpedition.  thei,  tof  1  '"  ''  '?"?  ^  ^'^^^'^  ^''«  ^««ul'«  of 
On  the  .'JOth  ,r  iune  t  e  sn     ,      ^^'  "'"'  ''"^  «'«'•>'  "^ ''>«  -"""try. 

'""•'x'ur.     The  island  oSni  no       ''        '''"^  '''"'^•^'  "'^"^^  ''  ^  ^n- 
-veil  oi-  the  ocean,  Vi^L^:!^^  7  ''"  "^^^  ''''"'  "'^■ 

iiie  gradual  manner  in  whicli  tho  nvt^!,  ■         i  •'      . 
towards  Lima,  seen,s  10^1^  "''  P'"'"  '''^''^  ^""^  Callao 

ti>e  city.  From  r  1  it  is  "''  "■"'"""  ''''  ''  ''''  ^''^^^ion  of 
di.tant.'^and  does  a 'fea  to  bT  I  T.  ''"'"''^'  ^^"'"^  ^^  ""'- 
ot•Mr.Bartlett^shou:Tb:U^     tr^^^^^^ 

Hnd  found  it  four  htmdred  and  twen  v  itt  Th  '  ^  «>™P'««ometer. 
perceptible  to  a  stran-rer  u-isT.^     ^   ^,  ""  '"'  ''""''^  '^'^  ^-•'^'•'^«'y 

practised  eye.  °     '       '"^  "'"''  ''"^  '•''»^'  '"'  «"«  who  had  not  a 

T  Jt:;^:::.^t'th;  ::::ii  r  ^^"^  ^^  ^"-  -^  ^-  ^-t  ns. 

from  57°  to  63°  "'''  ^"'■'""  °"^  ^'^^  ^««  CO-  of  the  air 

.-Hoi^^tS:;!:^;;:^^^^^ 
-;.t::r:::::f:rr^— ^ 

>l.roo  on  guard  '""'"'''^  '°""S'"8  "l"""'  ""J  """..^  l-o  „,■ 

'1.0  .ow„  has  a  1:0 Tel  ^     o  ^L'"  w^'"'"  '""°^  ™*^  ^ 
'lio  canal  to  ilio  molo  -.n.l  "' °l."°'"'"",'-    ""H-t  is  conducted  from 

l.in.n,  must  bo  one  of  ,l,o  Z",    'Z''     V,-  ■''"°'''  "'"  ''"l^"   "' 

»afe.y.bu.  for  .he  co„;™;:;r,f"  C"  .tL'ilJ'  "T\'  f'V' 
"f  Its  trade  will  be  formnrl  r..^     ,i  ,    °  '^"PP"^^-     ihe  best  idea 

^  have  understi:;  ^^  t  ^r  "  t^t^if  JT'  '"  '''''''  ' 
we  found  in  port,  namely  fortv  ,  "n  "  .     ?    .  '^  '^"''^  """'^^'-  ^^ 

five  Americrn,  h  o   Fn^n^  Ce  /  -''-»'-"  ^''''^"^  "^  ^-- 

merchantmen,  large  and  small  "^'  "''   ^'"'''^"^^^''^    ^--i- 


984 


PERU. 


boon  Iho  key  of  I'eiu.  Wliiclicvcr  piuiy  liml  it  in  possession,  worn 
consiilcrod  as  tlio  iiossossors  of  the  cniintry.  It  is  now  convurtcd  to  u 
better  use,  viz.:  thnt  of  a  custon»-house,  and  is  nearly  dismantled. 
Only  five  of  its  beautiful  giuis  remain,  out  of  one  hundred  and  forry- 
live,  whieh  it  is  said  to  have  mounted.  During  our  visit  there  the 
Chilian  troops  had  possession  of  the  country,  which  they  had  held 
since  the  battle  of  Yungai.  Must  of  the  buildings  are  undergoing 
repairs  since  the  lato  contest. 

It  is  said  that  the  fortress  is  to  be  demolished,  and  thus  the  peace 
of  Callao  will  in  a  great  measure  be  secured. 

The  principal  street  of  Callao  runs  parallel  with  the  bay.  There 
are  a  few  tolerably  well-built  two-story  houses  on  the  main  street,  which 
is  paved.  These  houses  are  built  of  adobes,  and  have  Hat  roofs,  which 
is  no  inconvenience  hero,  in  conseciuence  of  the  absence  of  heavy 
rains.  The  interior  of  the  houses  is  of  the  commonest  kind  of  work. 
The  partition  walls  arc  built  of  cane,  closely  laced  together.  The 
houses  of  the  common  people  are  of  one  story,  and  about  ten  feet 
high;  some  of  them  have  a  grated  window,  but  most  of  them  only  a 
doorway  and  one  room.  Others  are  seen  that  hardly  deserve  the  name 
of  liouses,  being  nothing  more  than  mud  walls,  with  holes  covered 
with  a  mat,  and  the  same  overhead. 

The  outskirts  of  Callao  deserve  mentioning  only  for  their  excessive 
filth ;  and  were  it  not  for  the  fine  climate  it  would  bo  the  hot-bet  of 
pestilence.     One  feels  glad  to  escape  from  this  neighbourhood. 

The  donations  to  the  clergy  or  priests,  at  two  small  chapels, 
are  collected  on  Saturdays  fnjm  the  inhabitants.  On  the  evening  of 
the  same  day,  the  devotees  of  the  church,  headed  by  the  priest,  carry 
a  small  portable  altar  through  the  streets,  decorated  with  much  tinsel, 
and  various-coloured  glass  lamps,  on  which  is  a  rude  painting  of  tliJ 
Virgin.    As  they  walk,  they  chaunt  their  prayers. 

The  market,  though  there  is  nothing  else  remarkable  about  it,  ex- 
hibits many  of  the  peculiar  customs  of  the  country.  It  is  held  in  a 
square  of  about  one  and  a  half  acres.  The  stands  for  selling  meat 
are  placed  indiscriminately,  or  without  order.  Beef  is  sold  for  from 
four  to  six  cents  the  pound,  is  cut  in  the  direction  of  its  fibre,  and  looks 
filthy.  It  is  killed  on  the  commons,  and  the  hide,  head,  and  liorns  are 
left  for  the  buzzards  and  dogs.  The  rest  is  brought  to  market,  on 
the  backs  of  donkeys.  Chickens  are  cut  up  to  suit  purchasers.  Fisii 
and  vegetables  are  abundant,  and  of  good  kinds,  and  good  fruit  may 
be  had  if  bespoken.  In  this  case  it  is  brought  from  Lima.  Every 
thing  confirms,  on  landing,  the  truth  of  the  geographical  adage,  "  In 
Peru  it  never  rains."     It  appears  every  where  dusty  and  parched  up. 


PERU, 


335 


wo..l,l    appoar   .anal  ^  ".      "■""^'''  ""''  '"•""'"  *'"  "^^«"t. 

What  on«  ,M  o     a  e,.L        ."'''''''"''''"'  "'"'   """^'"^'-  "'"'   «"-• 

ro  be  "nctinron    ist      h  1   .  "''  r    •^'"'"^' ""'  ^^'-''"^  ""«  ^-«"^«'' 
late  battle.     T      o  I  s  >'   .'"  /  "' '  "?  ""  ''  '"^^'«  ^"'"^  '"  •»>« 

five  fcot  in  length     vhi,^;  "    ^'"'''^•  ''^^^'^''  -"•'">'-.  nbou, 

an.lindec      Zl  ;r^^^^^  — --  '<^  >•-  "-,. 

over  to  bo  ^UnuJllZ!:::^!!'  """"'  "  "'"'""  '''  '^  "^^^  -- 

J!:::!:::':^::: :::;:;:  :"•  ^f -^  '7^-  »^«  -.e.  a.,  .....,h 

".0  havoc  a  ?o.  ^^ut    ^   :L     '^^^  ^'""i  T"""  '-'  "^^^  <''• 
been  upturno.l  and  shik.-n  fn  ^^O' f-^'-n.lat.on  seen.s  to  hav,, 

mi«htv  wave     T  T'"""'  '""''  '^°  '^^"'«  ^"'"nerjre,!  hv  a 

m.ghty  wave.     J  ho  won.lor  ,s  that  any  ono  escapcl  to  toll  the  tale 

Iwo  crosses  mark  the  height  to  whioh  the  sea  rose     Tho 
one,  one-third  of  the  wav  to  r  i.„.,   in  r     .       .  ^""^  "I'r»er 

which  the  vvalor  flovvir  t !.  I  •  '■'  ''  ""  "'''""'^^  '^''''''^^^  ''> 
Spanish  frig^^^  V  :  .;  ;,  r  ?""■  ""  r^^  ^'^  P'^^°  "'"^h-  «he 
I  can  easily  conceive  tfn  "■'  "'"'''  ''"'"  ""^  "•"'''  "^  ^''^er. 

large  vess  J ,::!:  :^. "  rh  ,7  ::i:;:;:i'r;:r "" "  ^-^^^ « 

Low  the  water  shonld  have  ;  ar^  od  H  e  h  h'  .  '^'''"""^  •"^''^g'^^ 
fifty  feet  at  least  above  to  ve|  '  Z  ^^  f  '"'  ^""'^'"'^  «"^ 
'■'.ndred  inhabitants  of  ol  (  :  ',,  '  J"' "  ^  '^."'"'""'  *^^" 
•l-ch  which  are  not  hall  thai  tH;    ""  ""^'"^'  ""  '''  --"'«  «^  » 

gorging  the.;  ve  ft  i  \;rT;r , "'  ^^''"^'^  ?^«  -'^"-  -- 

^•nly..rprisin,  that  t^l^ZrciZ^'Zc^T'''''-  •  '"''?''  '^  ''^ 
thority,  should  not  fool  the  no  ossirrlo  '"  '"^'"^'"''"^^  "- 

tbe  disposition  of  their  dead      Ma   '  nr    th?^     ■•"^'  T?  '"'"'"'^^'  '" 
only  with  a  few  inches  oF  and     P      ,        T  '"  ""'''^''  ""'^  ^"^'^'^'^^'^ 

-n  with  pieces  of 'i;;!?!.^  t  t^t^'^Do  ■^''r^^^^  "■" 

?rcaf  numbers  wore  everv  whor^S  ,     -"^^  ''"''  "'''"'•^^  '" 

Hloof  fairly  gorged  witltlii      '^^^'^•""  "P°"  ^''«  ^««^' "^  standing 


u*    if  '    f 
L44...-.J.....M 

236 


PERU. 


length,  and  is  tolerably  well  paved,  with  sidewalks.  Billiard-signs 
stare  you  in  tlie  face.  This,  I  presume,  may  be  set  down  as  the  great 
amusement,  to  which  may  be  added  the  favourite  nionte  at  nighl. 
Tiiere  is  no  lack  of  pulperias. 

Coaches,  or  rather  omnibusses,  run  several  times  a  day  to  Lima 
The  old  accounts  of  robberies  on  the  road  to  Lima,  are  still  fresh  in 
the  mouths  of  strangers.  In  times  of  revolution  it  was  infested  by 
robbers,  but  the  steps  taken  by  government  have  eflectually  put  a  stop 
to  them. 

The  4th  of  July  was  duly  celebrated.  The  Falmouth,  Captain 
M'Keever,  fired  a  salute  in  honour  of  the  day,  and  the  Vincennes  was 
dressed  with  national  Hags. 

On  the  road  to  Lima  is  Bella  Visla;  but  it  is  in  ruins,  and  has  been 
so  ever  since  the  revolution.  It  was  generally  the  outpost  or  battle- 
ground of  the  two  parties,  and  altiiough  the  soil  in  the  plain  which 
borders  the  sea  is  extremely  fertih;,  consisting  of  decomposed  rock, 
containing  the  elements  of  fertility  in  the  greatest  abundance,  it  now 
appears  a  neglected  waste.  Attention  to  its  cultivation  ard  irrigation 
would  make  it  a  perfect  garden.  On  approaching  Lima,  the  ga°rdens 
and  fields  are  found  to  be  cultivated  and  well  irrigated.  B'ields  ol' 
Indian  corn  are  seen,  some  fully  ripe,  some  half-grown,  and  others 
just  shooting  up,— a  novel  sight  to  us.  This  bears  testimony  not  only 
to  the  fineness  of  the  climate,  but  to  the  fertility  of  the  soil.  The 
gardens  near  the  city  are  filled  to  profusion  with  fruits  of  all  descrip- 
tions. 

The  road,  on  its  near  approach  to  the  city,  forms  an  avenue  of  about 
a  mile  in  length.  This,  in  its  prosperous  days,  was  the  usual  evening 
drive,  and  atlbrdcd  a  most  agreeable  one.  On  each  side  are  garden^ 
filled  with  orange  trees,  the  fragrance  of  whose  flowers,  and  the  Iwautv 
and  variety  of  the  fruit,  added  to  its  pleasures.  It  is  now  goin<T  to 
decay  from  utter  neglect.  Its  rows  of  willows,  and  the  streams  of 
running  water  on  each  side,  though  forming  its  great  attraction,  will, 
if  sullered  to  remain  without  attention,  be  completely  destroyed.'  No' 
one  seems  to  take  interest  in  the  public  works.  So  marked  a  dillb- 
rence  from  Chili  could  not  but  be  observed. 

At  Lima  I  was  struck  with  the  change  that  had  taken  place  since 
my  former  visit.  Every  thing  now  betokens  poverty  and  decay;  a  sad 
change  from  its  former  splendour  and  wealth.  Tliis  appearance  wan 
observed  not  only  in  the  city,  but  also  among  the  inhabitanis.  Whole 
families  have  been  swept  ofl;  and  their  former  attendants,  or  strangers, 
have  become  the  possessors  of  their  houses  and  })roper(v. 

The  country  has  been  a  scene  of  commotion  and  revulylion  for  the 


PERU. 


237 


thousand.  ^°  '^'  •"'^"^  ««  sixty.five  or  seventy 

^^!^sm:^:i^:t  rtiif  ^  '"-''^-^^^  ^'^-  ^-  ^^«  -gh. 

""OS  have  been  n        ^^       ,'r'?   '"  '°°'^  ^^  durability,  and  no  new 
'•-"bines    more ';i-^,to',  ;:'■•' 'T""     ''^^  ^'^  "^  ^^e  city 
-lopted  for  ,1,0  loca  i  V      Tl  1     .  'T  '''"''   '^^'^    ^""'^   '^^^  been 
sufficiently  broad.     Tho^e  w^  Lh     "'        T^  ''   ''^^'  '^^S^''  ""d   all 
-r.luvest\and  southe  7       '    V'"."  "f    "  '"''"'^  "^  ^'"  S^'''™^' 
Theyhavenot.hovv^er;    "h"    "       "'"^  '^^'"^h  their  n.iddle. 
not  to  be  imp  ted  to  t,  ;  wX-   r"  ?"^r"'""' '"  '"'  '""'^  ''  -'"^-"'v 
'-«  to  which  thes    s   cam  to      T      11  '^  ^'^'"S  made  so.     The 
iVeqnent  them,  gives  thH^^r,'"'' *''";    ^'^^^--''ou^  buzzards  that 
-ss.     The  buzzard    are  no  5.      t'  ?    "'  ''"'  ^'^•'"  ^'''^^  ^^  ^'^^nli- 
'-•  their  food  in  tl  e  I'ors  r         1     '  ^7'  ""'  ""^^  ^°  -«"  ^^hting 
"f  the  houses,  thirty  or  !  t;  ,  f  /      "  "'  '"^r"'" ''  '''  ^'»'"»  -^  ^'^  ^"P^ 

Great  attention  L"  be  '  i  to7'  "'''''"l  '°^  "''"  ''•'°''- 
on  the  north  side  of  the  d  ^  '  .  7'"^  '"' ''''  ^'^'"«^^'  ^'"ch  is 
■>f  fountains;  its  walks  a  e  wo  I '",  ?  ''  "'•"'^"^^^"t^^l  with  a  number 
'ho  running  wate,  adds  1  ■?  u  '^  ^"  '''^'  ^'^«  '"'^'^  ^rees;  and 
P>-omenade!  L  he  cool  o  Jh  ''"•  "  '''  ""'^^  ^«  ^^^  ^  ^^''ghtful 
^tone  seats  are  occl  ^^  b^  n  .r"'';"  '• "  ""^'^  ^"'^"^"^«^'  ^^^  '^s 
to  get  a  view  of  the  Inhabit  1  "'""f    '"'"'^  ^^  ^^^  ^est  place 

con^motions,  thoy  appdr  ,'     ^  "^\^-"  ^^'-^n^ling  their  intlrnal 

'he  best  advantage  and  ir^trntHma^t^;!^^'^''^-  ^^  - 
'7-  certainly,  adapted  to  the  displav  o  b  ,  ^T  A  1  ""*"  T^'^'  '^ 
■'•  '^"nl  .Iross  cannot  well  be  conceived  ^^^      i  ''  "''''^''''^  ""^' 

"  "'e  wearer's  rank,  for  frenuo,   ^  I.  s wli  ^  ""  '"'"'■'  '"'^'"-^^'^'^ 

•"^>  assumed  under'its  n.oT^Zt':^:::^'r'  ""'  ^""^^'' 
-  '"tr-gue,  of  which  it  is  almost  an  cC^^^t         '  "  ""''''  °" 


236 


PERU. 


emblem  of  the  wretclied  condition  of  domestic  society  in  this  far-famed 
city. 

The  saya  and  manto  were  originally  intended  as  a  retiring,  modest 
dress,  to  mark  reserve,  to  insure  seclusion,  and  to  enable  ladies  to  go 
abroad  without  an  escort.  The  general  term  for  the  wearers  is 
Tapada,  and  they  were  always  held  sacred  from  insult.  Tapada  is 
likewise  applied  to  a  dress  which  is  also  frequently  seen,  viz.,  a  shawl 
worn  over  the  head,  so  as  to  cover  the  nose,  mouth,  and  forehead. 
None  but  the  most  intimate  friend  can  know  the  wearers,  who  frequent 
the  theatres  in  this  disguise.  It  is  to  be  regretted,  that  it  is  now  worn 
for  very  dilferent  purposes  from  its  original  intention.  Intrigues  of 
all  kinds  are  said  to  be  carried  on  under  it.  It  enables  the  wearer  to 
mix  in  all  societies,  and  to  frequent  any  place  of  amusement,  without 
being  known,  and,  even  if  suspected  by  her  husband  or  relatives,  the 
law  of  custom  would  protect  her  from  discovery.  In  this  dress,  it  is 
said,  a  wife  will  pass  her  own  husband  when  she  may  be  walking  with 
her  lover,  and  the  husband  may  make  love  to  his  wife,  without  being 
aware  it  is  she. 

The  saya  is  a  silk  petticoat,  with  numerous  small  vertical  plaits, 
containing  about  thirty  yards  of  silk,  and  costing  fifty  or  sixty  dollars. 
It  is  drawn  in  close  at  the  bottom  of  the  dress,  so  that  the  wearer  is 
obliged  to  make  very  short  steps  (ten  inches).  It  is  a  little  elastic,  and 
conforms  to  the  shape,  whether  natural  or  artificial,  from  the  waist 
down.  The  manto  is  a  kind  of  cloak,  of  black  silk.  It  is  fastened  to 
the  saya  at  the  waist,  and  brought  over  the  head  and  shoulders  from 
behind,  concealing  every  thing  but  one  eye,  and  one  hand,  in  which  is 
usually  seen  a  cross,  or  whose  fingers  are  well  ornamented  witli 
jewels.  Before  the  manto  is  arranged,  a  French  shawl  of  bright 
colours  is  thrown  over  the  shoulders,  and  brought  between  the  open- 
ings of  the  manto  in  front,  hanging  down  nearly  to  the  feet.  The 
loose  saya  is  also  much  worn :  this  is  not  contracted  at  the  bottom. 
and  in  walking  has  a  great  swing  from  side  to  side. 

The  walk  of  the  Lima  ladies  is  graceful  and  pretty,  and  thej 
usually  have  small  feet  and  hands. 

The  houses  are  built  of  sun-burnt  brick,  cane,  and  small  timber. 
All  those  of  the  better  class  have  small  balconies  to  the  second  story. 
Most  of  the  houses  are  of  two  stories,  and  they  generally  have  an 
archway  from  the  street,  secured  by  a  strong  portal,  leading  into  an 
open  court.  The  lower,  or  ground-floor,  is  used  as  storehouses, 
stables,  &c.  This  peculiar  manner  of  building  is  intended  as  a 
security  against  the  effects   of  earthquakes.     The  housetops  are  a 


PERU. 


239 


trfZlV  ""'f  °i. '•'■•>'''"■.-"''  "-  accumulation  of  dus.  i, 

climate.  ^     ^  ''"''^'"°   ''  ^^^"   adapted  to  the 

St.  anger.     He  ,s  there  sure  at  all  hours  to  see  more  of  lifp  in  T 
l^^an  at  any  other  place.     They  are  built  on  two     de fo  t^P^r 
anirj        T:  "  °^"''^'^'  '-^^  shops,  where  all  kinds  of  dry-!  o^^^^^ 
and  fancy  articles  are  sold.     Between  the  columns,  next  the  Pla/n 

The  Arcades  are  about  five  hundred  feet  lon»,  well  „aved  »i,l, 
snja    stones,  tnterlaid  with  the  knucklebone,  of  shelp"    ic  f;    a™ 

-  one  ^^:zj^i:z:z:z:::zt^::^tjz^ 

The  Palace  of  the  Viceroy  occupies  the  north  side  of  the  Plaza 

The  fountain  in  the  centre  of  the  Plaza  is  i  fin«  ,.;„        c 
was  erected,  according  to  the  inscripu!:  i:^cotbrD:n^G:r::'s^^^^^ 

""E?aue  hTT;'^'  r^^^°^  ''''  Captain-GeneVal  of  the  ki  ;  fr 
E  qu    bebe  de  la  pila  sequenda  in  Lima,"  is  the  usual  saying. 
He  that  dnnks  of  the  fountain  will  not  leave  Lima."  " 

The  Cathedral  is  a  re.narkable  building,  not  only  from  its  size  but 
.ts  ornaments.     Most  of  the  decorations  are  in  bad\.steTand     should 

ev  u,  for  all  the  show  it  makes.  In  a  chapel  on  one  side  of  the 
building  there  is  a  collection  of  portraits  of  the  Archblhops  Tlev 
are  good  faces,  well  painted,  and  all  are  there  but  the  a,     who  aT  he 


Spanish   cause, 
interred  in  niches 


m,  11  ,  ,     ,    "  =>^vt;iuiga  ana  tne 

Ihey  all  have  had  the  honour,  except   him,  to  be 
5.  in  the  crypt,  under  tlie  great  altar.     Many  of  the 


240 


PERU. 


cotliiis  are  open,  exposing  tlio  driud-iip  romains  of  tlio  saints,  clotlied 
ill  leather  jackets  and  shoes,  wliicli  tlic  sacristan  made  no  diiiiculty 
about  disposing  of  I'or  a  triile.  Two  skulls  and  a  hand  were  obtained. 
There  is  some  good  carving  about  the  choir  of  the  Cathedral. 

A  hospital  is  attached  to  this  church.     A  novel  sort  of  hearse  was 
seen  employed  here,  with  ibur  drawers  as  temporary  coilins. 


HOSPITAL  IIKARSE. 

The  market  of  Lima  is  kept  in  an  open  square.  It  is  a  strange 
place  to  visit,  and  the  scene  that  is  witnessed  there  cannot  fail  lo 
amuse  the  stranger.  It  is  well  sup])lied,  and  many  purchasers  fre- 
quent it.  There  arc  no  stalls,  and  mats  are  used  in  their  stead.  The 
meat  is  laid  on  tlicm  in  rows,  and  the  vegetables  heaped  up  in  piles. 
Some  of  the  piles  consist  of  only  one  kind,  but  they  are  generally  all 
mixed  together.  The  meat,  as  at  Callao,  is  cut  with  the  grain,  and 
into  small  pieces,  to  suit  the  purchasers ;  and  poultry  is  cut  up  in  a 
similar  manner.  But  what  will  most  attract  a  stranger's  notice,  arc 
the  cooking  establishments.  These  are  in  great  request ;  stews,  fries, 
and  olla  podridas,  are  in  constant  preparation  by  some  brawny  dame, 
who  deals  out,  with  much  gi'avity  and  a  business-like  air,  the  small 
pieces  to  the  hungry  Indians  who  stand  by  waiting  for  their  turn.  The 
fried  dishes  seemed  to  claim  their  preference,  if  one  could  judge  hy 
the  number  in  waiting.  The  expertness  of  the  woman  who  oiiicialed 
was  truly  wonderful,  twisting  and  twirling  the  dough  in  her  hand, 
placing  it  upon  a  stick,  dipping  it  in  the  hot  oil,  and  slipping  it  as  soon 
as  cooked  dexterously  into  the  dish  for  her  customers.  Then  again 
was  a  frier  of  pancak(is  close  [)y,  equally  expert.  The  variety  ot 
dishes  cooking  was  surprising,  and  those  wlio  fried  fish  exhibited 
undoubted  proofs  of  their  freshness,  by  consigning  them  to  the  |)nn 
before  they  ceased  to  live. 

I  was  surprised  at  the  variety  offish,  meals,  vegctaijles,  and  fruits; 
the  latlyr  p^.iticulaiiy.     These  were  in  season,  and  included  oranges. 


PERU. 


241 


cherimoyers    pomegranates,  pahas,  plantains,  bananas,  papaws.  gra- 
nadillas,  apples,  figs  and  ananas.  ^ 

The  above  are  the  usual  articles  erowded  into  the  market,  but  were 
I  to  stop  here,  one  half  would  not  be  told.  AM  sorts  of  goods  iewelrv 
cottons,  woollens,  laces,  hardware,  linen  fabrics,  l.andirerel  ief  I  o's' 
slM^^ers  ats,  &c.,  are  hawked  about  by  pedlers  with  stentorian  lun.;' 
s^o  w.th  the  lo.tory-venders,  wi.h  tickets,  ink-horn,  and  pen,  selling 
tl.e  tickets  ,n  the  nau.e  of  the  Holy  Virgin  and   all   the  saints    make 

zz:i ''" ""  "^" ''-'  ""'^  '''^  •''•'  -^'-^  --"s  in  o;:t 

The  convent  of  San  Francisco   occupies  six  or  seven  acres   of 
ground      In  .s  days  of  prosperity  it  nu,st  have  been  a  .na^nifLn 
es^     shment     Its  chapels  are  very  rich  in  gilding,  carved  w^rk.  Z, 

^J^  "^T^V-  "'•""'"™^^''^  ^-'^'^  '--"'if"l  fountains  and  flower- 

fea.dcns.     lart  ot  >t  ,s  now  occupied  by  the  soldiers  as  barrucks,  and 

l>cn-  muskets  are  stacked  on  the  altar  of  one  of  its  chapels.     I      as 

long  smee  been  stripped  of  its  riches  and  deserted,  but  il  seems  once 

sngge..  The  good  Father  Anculus,  who  showed  the  buildinc..  wa. 
shrewd  and  Ob  ging.  The  gallery  of  paintings  contains  it  iT  said 
many  fine  Mtjrdlos.  The  remains  of  its  former'splendour,  even  now, 
jasfhes  what  Father  Feiiillee  asserted,  that  there  was  nothing  of  tl^e 
l<nKl  to  compare  ^vith  it  in  Europe.  There  are  but  few  friarsliere  at 
present,  but  it  ,s  s.id  to  have  formerly  .naintained  five  hundred,  livin.. 
ni  he  greatest  luxury  and  licentiousness.  The  n.ost  remarkable  objec'^t 
HI  the  church,  was  the  shrine  and  image  of  a  black  Virgin  Mary,  with 
a  white  uifant  Saviom-  in  her  arms. 

The  public  library  is  composed  of  rare  and  valuable  books,  both  in 
F,ench  and  Spamsh    taken  fron,   the  .Jesuits' College  and  convents 
Ihey  are  m  good  order,  and  among  them  are  many  manuscripts  which 
are    eaunfully  dhnninated.    The  librarian,  a  young  priest,  deserves    u 
thanks  for  his  attention  and  civilitv. 

The  public  museum  has  been  but  lately  con.menced.     It  contains  a 

nor^n  t'"  f 'TZ-^""''"'"''  antiquities,  s..n.e  native  birds,  and  the 
po.t  ai  s  of  all  the  Viceroys,  fro,n  Pix.arro  down.  At  the  cabildos  o. 
city  hall,  are  to  be  seen  some  of  the  archives  of  Lima,  kept  until 
recently  m  good  order.  Many  signatures  of  the  old  Viceroys  and 
C.overnors  are  quite  curious;  among  others,  that  of  Pizarro  is  shown. 
As  few  of  them  couM  write,  they  adopted  the  RuMc,  made  by 
placmg  the  finger  of  the  left  hand  and  n.aking  the  flourish  on  each 
side  ot  ,t,  the  clerk  filling  in  the  name.  This  method  has  since  been 
generally  adopted   among  the  8onlh    A.nericans,  in    signins  olHcial 

VOL.  I.  V  31  =^         .  ■ 


842 


PERU. 


dcu^uments,   being   considered  full  as    binding   as    if  the   name  was 
wruien. 


The  book  in  which  the  signatures  were  written,  was  entitled  :- 

LinRO    10  DE  LOS  CABILDOS 

DE  Et^TA  CIUDAD  DE  LOS  REYES, 

QUE  COIIMIENZA, 

EL  ANO  DE 

]5:)4. 

This  would  make  it  appear  that  the  city  was  founded  a  year  before 
the  date  given  m  Ilerrera,  Garcilaso,  Calancha,  Montalvo,  and  others 
wl.  dispute  about  , ho  clay  of  the  month,  without  having  rLgardt  t  ^ 
yeai.     This  book  bears  evidence  that  the  municipality  was  organized 

fo     It,   7"'^J'"''^  '""'^  '^"  ^'^'■^^  ^'^^^  ^he  city  must  have  b    n 
founded  before  the  municipality  existed. 

The  theatre  is  a  handsome  building,  although  much  out  of  repair 
was  bnlhantly  hgh.ed  the  night  we  visited  it,"and  was  crowded  wh 

seat  knllv  o  /"  T  ^'"  """  '"  ^""  ^'"^*"'-'  ""^  made  a 

grea    display  of  jevv-els.     In  the  parterre  there  ^.  tc  many  « tapada. » 

01  the  play,     l-  or  the  performance  I  cannot  say  much. 

Near  the  Alameda,  on  the  north  side  of  the  city,  is  a  lar^e  oblon.^ 
enclosure  of  nearly  eight  acres,  with  thick  stone  walls  and  at"! 
gateway  at  each  end.     It  was  intended  for  a  naval  scho  1,^,   h^.f 

e  fl  led"'^"  ^^'-  V"'''"  '^"-S^  ^^^^••-'-'  -hic'^  ---  intend 
to  be  filled  with  water  from  the  Rimac,  to  float  a  tiny  fleet  some  of 
which  It  IS  said  were  actually  constructed.     This  was       Zu" 

S:  T  "r  "'  '"  ''''  ''^^^'•^^^'  •^'"'  '  --•«  '^l^-rd  o  e  coX 
rcely  have  been  conceived.     The  water  is  now  used  for  a  mud 

bett  1  purpose  namely,  to  turn  the  machinery  of  some  adjacent  mills. 

There  are  three  classes  of  inhabitants,  vix.:  whites,  Indians,  and 


PERU. 


243 


he  dinner  table     t/V  ^"^'       "=^''''  ""''"  '"  ^"'^'•'•i^'^S^^  ^"d  at 

Ihc  cholo  women  parlake  of  the  dark  brown  skin  of  the  Indian 

Tl.       J        ""-'"■     "rarwliolo  figure  IS  robtsl. 
lion  o/p        V'"!  ''■''''°"''  '°  °''"'  ""J'  "•=<"■■■'•"=  °=«»""t  of  the  nonulT 

are";™  ;7d'n'v  "  tT"  ""Tt^":  '"''"''°'  '"  "™'  ^  »f  "'-h 

uc  losuocl  dail3%     Tliey  arc,  like  the  Spanish,  small  shoPM      Th 

r£— rr=rr?i=^::™;■s■ 
of?  rn,  CI  ris       il'      "  "°^,  !!  r"'  '•™='''''™'  »  "-»  ros.ival 


'M4 


V  !•;  11  ij. 


Ibnctiii^r  ,,|||  ill,,  |,„| 

lllllC.il    ||li\(!(l     1)1(111(1 


mils  ill  11  iiiiiniicrliillicil 


<>  iiii|>riiflisf(l.     'I'liore 


i'iii"ii,i^-  llir   rcniviuii  .suldicrs,  i;li.,| 


los,  z;iiii1m»s, 


some  low  lu-nuvs  uliik-  ||„.  Cluij,,,,  „,„,,„  |,,„|  ^,^,.^.  ,i„|^._     ^ 


vviia 
:iM<l 


llio  Cliil 


(^hili 
1)1 


liins,  ilu;  niiriiiK'nl  ..f  I'orlalo 


111111111 


si\  liuiiilicil  slroinr,  J, 11,1  \y 


.s  was  jK.iiiio,!  ..Ill,  wliich  liad  left 


a.s  Mow  reduced  to  luiir  liiiiidriMl. 


inn-  my  slay  at  Lima,  I  |,ad  llio  pleasure-  ..f  an  iiitrod 


Mr.  Malliows,*  u| 


III  lioil    to 


('oml)iiicd  uilli 


his  I 


a  nisi. 


II 


losi!  rc'soan-lics  in  natural  history  arc  so  well  I 
■'•-'"ly  11  ^ood  iialuralisi,  he  has  .'lual   talent 


How 


IS  porllolio   coii'aiiied    many  heaulirul  di 


Mlo\,  ,1. 
as  an 


ers,  and  hirds,  iVoiii  I 


)1"  thirty 


'uyoud  thi!  Cordill 


icr; 


Jl 


miles  s(iuare,  at  the  loot  ofllio 


auiu^rs  of  iijaiils, 
c  ounod  an  eslalc 


eastern  slope  of  the  ( 'onlill.M'as, 


'■'"•  which  I  Ihink  h.;  ha.l  paid  one  thousand  dollars.     ]| 


a  woman  of  iho 


o  IS  married 


foiinlry,  is  extremely  eiilhiisiaslie  in  I 


uul  lias  lately  recovered  some  of  ijie  unpublishe.l 


us  researches. 


nd  1 


avoii. 


manuseripls  of  Kuj^ 


icre  are  several  small  manufact 


ones  ol  ('old 


'VI 
all  the  goods  sold  and  consumed  in  the 
the  great  retail  place.     There  has  hoen  lately  set 


lace,  occ 


hut 


iieai 


■|> 


glass,  hut  loo  recently  to  jiulgu  orits 


coiiiilry  are  foreign.     Lima 

up  a  maiiiifaciorv  ot 


meiits  are  iiiimei 


■ous, 


hut  all 


success.    The  mechanical  employ. 


that  Lima  was  founded 


!•«  in  a  rude  state.    When  it  i 


s  considered 


own  country,  it  shows  a  marked  dillei 
of  (he  Auglo-Saxou  race. 

On  St.  .lolm's  day,  (^  llli  of  Jiuie,)  || 


uoarly  a  century  JK^fore  the  sellle.neiit  of 


our 


eiice  in  favour  of  the  enterprise 


festival   among   ihe   lower  classes— lIu;  diol 


lacks-- lakes  |i|ace.    It  is  held 


le  palron  saiiil  ol'  Lima,  a  great 
los,  ualives,  zamhos. 


miles  iiorlii   of  ihe  ciu.      | 
boot! 


in  il«;  valley  of  Amau 


caes,  a 


hoilt  t 


and 

li'Cl^ 


rtnious  lo  i|,e  d;,y,  a  immi.er  of  t 


is  art!  erected  in  the  valley,  which  is  ahuiil  I 


one-lhird   of  a    mil 


wide 


eiils  and 
lail'  a  mile  lou.r   and 


hail 


iiers. 


gamliliii; 
On  ll' 


Tl 


iiie   decked   out   with   ilags   and 
"•';"  :"•'•  tt'iils  for  relreshmeuls,  strong  drinks,  dancin-. 


Ill  e\er\-  diieclioii. 


le  roat 


1  1 


I'adiiig  lo  ihis  SCI  lie  are  erected  shi 


wliere  all  ulio  pass  are  expected  to  pay  ll 


ines  of  tl 


1'.!  saint. 


On  this  ihy.  evi'i-y  horse  and  vehicle  in  1 


leir  coiitrihiilioiis. 


exorl)ilaiil    ral 
fi 


Tl 


le  whole  1 


iiiiKi   is  engaged,  and  at 


fill   an   early  hour  in  the  morniiK 


oad  leading  |..  ihe  valley  i 


freijuent  it  early  and 
classes  continue  U 
with  (he  ll 


he  higher  classei 


s  erowdt'd 
'ciieralh 


reliirn  soon,  while  lho.se  of  ihe  middle  and  loNveV 
K^vpu  lip  until  a  lale  hour.     Everyone  is  decked 


owers  ,,|  ilu-  raucraliiim  Amancaes,  whicl 


1  grows  111  ixreat 


J</;:"f  "'"'"'^  '" ""'''''  ""'  '"^'  '•-  "'•"•™  -ousa,u...U.„s. 


VF.R  II. 


845 


XVv    ;  '''r"'' -'--"-  to  ,1.0  booths  nnd 

)<-'"'  !•-•     As  ,1,.  ,h,y  a,lvnMr,,.s,  ||„,  ,.,ou-,l  innvasos.     No  -111,  of  July 

""""■""' "•>■" ''■'!'-' •'-•l'''--ns.lnn,N.nn.ssrhatcnsu J 


.  "'•1'.^  .s  .1.0  (avonritc  amuscnonl.  The  dance  in  which  fhoy  most 
-lol.^l..  .s  a  na„o„aI  ono,  calicl  ,ho  .san.acneca,  ..nul  no  words  can  10 
-  .-1-  ..i  ..H  v„,     ,,     „,,  ,,,^^^„,^_    J  ,,  ._^^  .^  ^  ,  cir  :.^3c 

iMt  .t  .s  conhnod  to  this  conntry.     0„o  A.uancacs'  daV  would  u        n 

■v^tnw;      ;   n    ""T'  >"^'^"''^  I''-'^-l  '^'  -cry  ono,  an.l  n.any 
•n..  sun  u,  h  ho.tlc  and  .^^hiss  passin^^  al,o,„.  .„d  ,,K,,.in..  happiness 

.1  prospenty,  u.  ,he  hope  <„•  .o„i„.  .  sn.all  reward.   ^Pi;  ,    .^ 
w  .ch  they  dance  consists  of.  s.nall  ,„itar,  accompanied  w       ,1  - 
,  e   a,.d  I.eatn,.ol  ,in,e;  ,he  ,i,ne  ,s  ,„i,e  n,on<.u!„ons.  son   '  v    u 
-:„,,,„.    ,,  span.sh  se.nidilla.     The  crowd  is  ,rca.,  c.sistin "     ' 
||S  -n.  os^  ..,.oos,  and  vvln.es.  var.nsiy  dressed  and  jnnd,ie 

n'       er'  .m        7'-"'«' ^;::"  ^"'^'^'"^'  "^'"i">^.  -vearin.,  lan.hin,; 
no  o.   e..  all  co„,„s,on.     Th.s  is  the  centre  of  the  fray.     On  .Ih3  out- 


340 


PERU 


skirts  aiv  .seen   ijroiip.s   of  llio   hiMlcr   chissos,  ssiiling  ,l,,\vn   to   tlioif 
liic-iiics, 

Tlio  acting  rri;si(leiil  iiiid  (.lovcriirn-  of  f^iinii,  hiiliioiitc  and  stiiiV. 
honoured  tlio  place  with  tlioir  prosiinco,  to  please  ll.o  pcnplu.  I  [u  did 
not,  however,  appear  to  receive  any  honours,  nor  was  his  arrival 
greeted  with  inari<s  of  approbation  or  enlhusiasin.  Towards  evening, 
when  the  inebriated  mass  is  returning,  the  greiil  sport  of  the  day 
occurs.  The  cholo  women,  ^vho  ride  astride,  are  remarkably  good 
horsewomen,  and  extremely  expert  in  managing  tlunr  horses.  Their 
dress  is  peculiar:  a  large  broad-brimmed  liat,  witii  /lowing  ribands  of 
gay  colours,  short  spencer  or  jacket  of  silk,  a  gaudy  calico  or  jiainled 
muslin  skirt,  silk  stockings,  blue,  jiink,  or  white  satin  shoes,  and  over 
the  whole  is  sometimes  worn  a  white  poncho.  Large  wooden  stirrups, 
ornamented  with  silver,  numerous  jiillions,  a  saddle-cloth,  and  richly 
ornamented  bridle,  all  decked  with  amancaes,  form  the  caparison  ol' 
the  steeds. 

Nothing  can  exceed  the  confusion  of  the  return  of  this  great  throne, 
moving  over  a  dusty  road,  shouting  and  racing.     The  cliolo  womai 
are  always  on  the  'ead,  and  actively  engaged  in  taking  care  of  th'  ir 
drunken  partners,  who  are  frequently  seen  mounted  buhhid  them,  wit. 
their  faces  flushed  from  the  effects  of  pisco,  forming  an  odd  contrast 
to  the  beautiful  yellow  flowers  that  adorn  their  hats.     The  great  feat 
of  the  women  who  ride  ainglc,  is  to  unhorse  their  companions,  which 
they  frequently  succeed  in  doing,  to  the  great  amusement  and  sport  of 
the  pedestrians,  and  the  discomfiture  of  their  male  associates.     Thev 
are  seen  w!iile  at  full  gallop  to  stop  suddenly,  whirl  round  two  or  tine", 
times,  and  go   oil*  again  at  full  speed,  covering  themselves   and   the 
bystaiiders  with  dust.     Just  before  reaching  the' city,  ihe  road  is  lined 
with  vehicles,  not  unlike  our  cabs,  in  which  are  seated  ladies  in  full 
costume. 

The  Alameda,  as  well  as  the  streets  leading  into  it,  is  crowded  on 
this  occasion  with  all  t!ie  fa-!;;.,,,  of  the  cilv.  'I'hough  the  cn.wd 
would  lead  to  the  belief  that  everybody  was  abroad,  vet  the  doors 
and  windows  are  filled  with  heads,  more  or  less  decorated  with 
amancaes.  Thit  is  a  festival  nowiierc  suri)assed  in  drunkenness  and 
uproar. 

Most  of  the  buildings  in  Lima  have  suirered  more  or  less  from 
earthquakes.  It  was  the  seasoii  „[  eartli,,uakes  durmg  our  stay,  and 
three  were  felt.  Some  of  our  genllemen  complained  of  a  sickenino- 
sensation  during  the  first.  It  did  not,  however,  do  much  damage. 
The  second  took  pku-e  on  the  .5th  of  June,  and  was  sensibly  felt  T  a 
third  was  experienced  on  the  10th  of  June,  with  a  continurd  shakino 


1'  !■;  K  I 


347 


of  the  walls  and  noors.     Tlu.-  last  was  r.^porte.l  as  |,av...  been  more 
severe  to  the  northwnnl.     At  lea,  an  olHdal  statcnont  reported  thai 
about  one  thousand  jars  .,f  ,.is,H,  had  been  broken.     They  nre  usuallv 
set  up  on  end  ni  contact  with  each  ..ther,  and  contain  from  seven  .;, 
ten  gallons  each      It  is  truly  surpris!  g  bow  long  the  churches  have 
stood,  with  thc.r  lofty  towers,     (furious  eflects  have  been  produced  in 
some  places      1  wo  conical  adobe  caps  of  the   Franciscan  convent 
have  been  slufted  from  their  places  ;  one  as  if  by  n  rotary  motion  or 
force  apparently  in  a  direction  from  left  to  right ;  the  other  is  turned 
had  roun<l,  and  seems  ready  to   fall.      Another  instance  was  noted 
at  the  gateway  of  the  naval  schor.l  before  spoken  of.     A  large  block 
has  been  tinned  one-fourth  round,   while   fl.ose   under  it  remain   in 
place. 

These  adobe  blocks  have  generally  a  large  iron  rod  running  through 
thei,.     A  representation  of  the  lattei  is  given  in  the  annexed  figure. 


^SSt;^ 


GATEWAY  OF  TIIR  NAVAL  SCHOOL. 


With  the  name  of  Peru  the  want  of  moisture  is  generally  associated 
Ihe  general  impression  is  that  it  never  rains  thero.     This,  however  is 
tar  from  being  strictly  true,  except  in  certain  parts  of  it.     Were'  il 
not  however,  for  irrigation  by  the  mountain  streams,  a  great  portio.i 
ot  1  eru  would  certauily  become  nearly  a  desert.     Indeed^,  the  upland 
IS  so  now,  not  yielding  any  herbage  whatever  until  the  pasture  re-ion 
of  the  Corddleras  is  reached.     We  are  not  to  imagine,  however, "hat 
the  atmosphere  is  very  clear,  or  that  sunshine  always  prevails      It  is 
extremely  dillicult  to  get  a  clear  day.     Father  Feiiillce  has  put  upon 
record,  more   than   a  certury  ago,  that  the  heavens  were  generally 
obscured.      I   can   bear    testimony  to  the  truth  of  this  remark,  for 
although  a  glimpse  of  the  sun  was  usually  had  some  time  durincr  the 
day,  yet  it  was   almost   as   dillicult  to  get  e.jual  altitudes  at  Cdlao 
during  our  stay  as  it  was  at  Terra  del  Fue<To. 

O 


S4a 


PERU. 


'I'lu!  (low  (;(Imi(>/(i)  (if  f.iina  is  no 


vcr  so  niv/M  ns  t( 


,   fHiuco  running 
watiM-,  yet  if  is  innn;  |iko  ruin  ilmn  ii  ScmIcIi  mist. 

'I'll.'  piculiarily  of  tlioro  hoini;  im  rain,  lias  l.i«un  iircoutited  for  in 
sijvoral  ways,  l.ut  not  to  nw  satisfactorily.  The  prevailing  rold  aiiH 
<lry  wiiiils  from  tlio  soiiiliwan!  swoop  ovor  tlio  wostorn  slioros  of  lliu 
cniitiiiciil  ;  haviii;,'  a  ^'roat  capacity  for  moisture,  tlioy  absorb  it  ns  they 
advance  to  the  northward,  from  every  thing.  On  reachiiiLr  tlii;  laliliido 
of  Vr  S.,  tli(!y  cease,  and  having  hocomc  saturated,  now  rise  to  a 
siilliricMt  heiirhf.  wlioro  they  are  coiideMsed  by  the  eld  strata,  and 
again  deposite.l  on  the  mountains  in  almost  constant  rains.  This  will 
noconnt  for  tlu;  aridity  in  the  high  Cordilleras  of  Chili,  as  well  as  for 
the  oxisKNice  of  the  Desert  of  Atacama,  the  want  of  rain  on  the  const 
of  Upper  Pern;  anil  at  the  same  tiiiu!,  for  the  moisture  of  the  high 
Cordilleras  of  l»cni,  which  will  be  shortly  spolu>ii  of  It  will  be  retnom- 
bcred  th;it  our  parties  on  the  (Cordilleras  of  Chili  found  the  aridity  to 
increase  on  ascending,  to  the  very  edge  of  the  perpetual  snow,  and  all 
the  pliuits  were  of  a  thorny  character. 

The  records  of  Lima  mention  the  falling  of  rain  only  four  times  in 
the  eighteenth  century,  and  the  occurrence  of  thunder  and  lightning  an 
equal  number  of  times.  But  this  applies  to  a  small  pari  of  Poru  only, 
namely,  the  country  bordering  the  coast,  some  fd'ty  or  sixty  itiiles  in 
width,  around  Lima.  It  will  be  seen  that  our  party  who  visited  the 
hiterior,  when  at  the  height  often  thousand  feet,  entered  a  region  siih- 
joct  to  rain,  and  on  the  crest  of  the  mountains  the  soil  was  kept 
perfectly  m«)ist  by  the  fre(|uent  snows  and  rain. 

Mr.  Bartlelt,  our  Charge  d'Ailiiires,  gave  me  the  range  of  the  thor- 
mometor  at  Lima  throughout  the  year,  :is  being  from  00^  to  85° ;  during 
our  stay,whi(-h  was  in  their  winter  months  of  May  and  June,  the  rnntro 
was  from  Cj"  to  lii)\  ' 

Fire  is  not  used  often,  but  from  the  continual  dampness  there  is  a 
cold  and  clammy  feeling,  that  is  exceedingly  uncomfortable  and  preju- 
dicial  to  lieallii.  Lima  has  certainly  the  reputation  of  being  a  healthy 
place— how  obtained  I  know  not— but  it  certainly  does  not  deserve 
it.  The  interments  have  anmudly  averaged  over 'three  thousand  five 
hundred,  in  a  population  amounting  by  the  best  accounts  to  no  more 
than  forty-five  thousand.  Many  of  these  deaths  arc  those  of  strangers, 
and  the  climate  has  always  been  fatal  to  the  Indians. 

During  our  stay  at  Callao,  the  temperature  of  the  air  varied  from 
57°  to  63°.  On  July  4th,  it  stood  at  the  same  point  in  both  |)laces.  The 
temperature  of  the  Ilimac  on  the  11th  of  June,  was  09°  to  71°,  on  the 
4tli  July,  (54°. 

The  Ilimac  derives  its  waters  exclusively  from  the  snows  of  the 


F  K  R  U. 


940 


'""Hlilli.r.s.    It  is  a  n„„i,m,i,.  Unwut  tUvmvjUnut  iv<  u|ir,|..  ronrsn     Tf 
'ItiHitifvo   wnicr  ill  it  is  m.iMll     'I'l        •1,1        .'""'"•""'«•    'no 

In  Vnl  ''.""''  "'"  "'"•"•  ''"'^'-^  ""•••"^'''  "-  ["•'•••ly  soil. 

•'  "^  '.'s  .1..--  .urv..s,  ,ak.-s  pi...,,  ahonf  ,ho  nuM.II.,  ,.f  J,„„.      ^p  ,    .",; 
.^,,a  a..  ,1.  fi.st  ...lUva.ed  .lis,n.,s.   Tu,.^.^,.,J:,   : 

'  >-.nng  our  visit,  tho  ( •|,iiia„  „.„ops  were  in  possession  of  ,ho  countrv 
'""iy  of  men  the    er  inn„  *''  "'"■''  ^  •'''■'^'>'  "'"'  ^^''^'•"-"t 


250 


PERU. 


Yet,  extraordinary  as  it  may  seem,  one  would  never  suspeot,  from  the 
outward  appearance  of  its  inhabitants,  that  tlie  country  could  be  in 
such  a  state.  All  their  pastimes  go  on  as  usual.  Among  these,  the 
festivals  of  the  church  are  most  conspicuous ;  for  they  yet  claim  the 
outward  respect  of  all,  both  high  and  low,  and  constitute  the  only 
bond  that  holds  society  together.  All  arc  subservient  to  the  rites  of 
the  church.  Even  the  Chilian  general  olhcers  dismount  and  kneel 
when  the  procession  passes;  and  all  the  dillerent  guards,  with  their 
officers,  not  only  give  the  military  salute,  but  also  drop  on  their  knees. 

I  was  much  struck  with  the  sight  of  a  mistress  and  her  slave,  who 
had  followed  her  to  the  cathedral,  kneeling  on  the  same  piece  of  cloth, 
telling  their  beads,  and  saying  their  prayers  togc;.:ier.  This  I  was  told 
was  quite  commm.  It  seemed  a  tacit  acknowledgment  that  religion 
reduced  all  to  the  same  level.  From  what  I  could  learn,  the  slaves 
are  treated  ",ith  great  kindness. 

During  our  stay  here,  we  had  the  misfortune  to  lose  one  of  the 
marines,  Benjamin  Iloldcn,  who  had  been  transferred  but  a  fe;v  days 
from  the  Relief  to  the  Peacock.  He  was  interred  at  San  Lorenzo. 
One  of  the  servants  on  board  the  Peacock,  a  boy,  was  discovered  to 
have  the  small-pox.  He  was' immediately  removed  to  a  tent  at  San 
Lorenzo,  and  every  thing  provided  for  him,  until  he  could  be  sent  to 
Luna,  Mr.  Bartlett.  our  consul,  liiXving  procured  permission  for  his 
removal  there. 

Every  precaution  against  this  disease  had  boen  taken,  by  vaccina- 
ting the  crews  after  leaving  the  United  States. 

I  felt  great  uneasiness,  lest  we  might  carry  it  with  us  to  the  Islands, 
where  it  might  spread  among  the  natives,  and  render  our  visit  ever 
memorable  by  the  introduction  of  that  dreadful  scourge.  All  the 
clothing,  and  every  thing  that  had  been  in  any  way  connected  wiih 
the  sick  boy  or  his  nurses,  was  destroyed,  in  the  hopes  of  renderins 
us  exempt  from  the  contagion.  '^ 


UM*  HOUSE. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


CONTENTS. 

A  PARTY  FOR  T,,..  rNTKRIOU-PREPARATIOXS  FOR  THE  JOUR.VBV-PA..PORTS-Mn 
B:  OS-nKPARTCRK-KPFKCr  OP  OFnorA.  PAP.RS-PACK  or  COC.™V-R.:.VS  OP 
NCA  TOWN«-PONCHORUA-CAHAM.EROS-CO^VOV  OP  .ILVER-ACCOM.MOD.TIOXS- 
.ARTHaUAKE-ROUTB  UP  T„K  VAL.CV  OP  CAXAVI..O-PACE  OP  COUNTRV  ST 
«OSA  m  aUIVI-YASO-OBRAJIU.0-mpPICUI.TIES  m  PROCURI.Va  MUI.P..-nE.rTV 
OP  HITUATION-I.I.AMAB-RIOTERS-PI.UN-m.:Rr^G  OP  IMIABrTANTS-CULN.I-I.. 
VIXDA- VEGETATION -MULETEERS    ENCOUNTERED  _  REACH    TFIE    CRE.T   OF   THE 

CORDILLERAS-CASACANCriA-ITSACC0MMODATtONS_C00,aNG.RANCE-SirKNF«. 
OP  PARTY -SNOVV.STORM-ALPAMARCA-CO.VrPANY  OF  PERUVIANS -THEIR  XTTFN 
TIONS-PROCESS  OP  AMALGAMATION  OP  ORE-MR.  LEVAN-VIHIT  TO  THE  MINE 
-FACE   OF   THE   MOUNTAIN  -  ROAD -BANOS- HOT   SPRING -BEAUTY   OF    VMIFV- 

v..:getation-threatened  attack  of  a  CONDOR-PORTRAIT-INCIDENTS  REI  V 

TING    TO    IT -DESCRIPTION    OP    BAKoS-ITS    HABITATIONS -STATE    OP    HORDES  1 
HKTURN   to   CASA   CANCHA-C.nr.IAN   CONVOY   FROM    PASCO-PASCO-M.NPS-VFm. 
OF  ORE-NUMBER  OP  MINES  IN  OPERATION-LAWS  IN  RELATION  TO  SILVER  MINED- 
DUTIES-niLL  OP  UACO-NEW  SPECULATIONS   IN   ]S«-DIFPICULTIES  IN  PURCHASING 
mNES-THE    POLITICAL   STATE   OF   THE   COUNTRY   ADVERSE    TO   THIS   BUSINESS- 
TEMPERATURE -BEAUTY  OF  SITUATION  OP  CASA  CANCHA-THEIR   DEPARTURE  ON 
THEIR    RETUKN-LINE    OP    PERPETUAL    SNOVV-AMMONITE-CIIICRINE-.TRAVELLING 
PARTIE8-FRENCHMAN-HISCOMPLIMENT8-CULNAI-CULTIVATION-nOSPIT.VLITV- 
OBRAJILLO- ACCOMMODATIONS -WANT    OP    GALLANTRY -GUIDES-SETTLEMPNT- 
BR IDAL    PARTY-YASO  -  ROBBERY  _  YANGA  -  HOSTESS  -  ANGELITA  -  CABALLFROS  - 
RETURN  TO  LIMA-BOTANICAL  REVIEW-GEOLOGICAL  CHARACTER  OF  THE  COUNTRY 
-FLYINGFISII  SENT  TO  rACHACAMAC-LANDING-TEMPLE-TOWN-TO.MBS-TIIEIR 
CONTENTS-EMBARKATION-RETUUN  TO  CALLAO. 


(Ml) 


Op 

Agat 

Cord 

I  foil 

could 

ncces 

on  bo 

Mr 

party 

in  the 

In] 

and  li 

froque 

Pasco 

Messr 

fiioy  s 

but  wi 

they  t( 

was   c 

necess 

time  ir 

form  o 

self,  to 

liberal 

were  a 

receive 

intentio 


CHAPTER   XIII. 

PERU  —  CONTINUED. 

1839. 

CordiJieras  of  Pen,,  for  ,he  purpose  of  making  botanical  collections 

i.isco.     -I  111  ongh  the  fnonclly  assistance  of  Mr  BicTCT,  nf  tl,o  »,  c 

Messrs    Rnrtlptt  A^  r-^  ■  ■  "'og*'>  oi  tlie  house  of 

.l.oy  »X;;et:^^^^^^^^^^^^  ^.M.  ..vice, 

..  wi,h  ».i  .or,,  of  provision,,  z,  ^:,!S:^:^^^T^'2:^ 

necessary  to  provide  themselves  with  passnot.  for  wlXh  7' 

vero  a  nat.onal  one.     It  is  a  regulation  that  the  nan  -     of  -U    ^ 
ece.ve   passports,  shall   be  published   in   the  official    .let.      t 
>ntention,  therefore,  became  known  to  all  uJ''f:1JVL'Z 

^^  (253) 


254 


FER  U. 


are  gazetted,  it  would  appear  that  but  a  small  number  travel  into  the 
interior,  or  else  that  the  regulation  is  not  very  strictly  complied  with. 

The  injunction  to  render  the  party  assistance  in  case  of  need  was 
very  strong,  and  among  other  things  specified  to  be  furnished,  was 
clothing,  which  was  thought  to  look  somewhat  ominous  in  this  country 
of  banditti.  In  spite  of  the  positive  terms  in  which  the  passport  was 
expressed,  it  was  found  of  little  effect  in  procuring  them  mules  or 
horses ;  and  it  was  not  till  after  much  trouble  and  disappointment  on 
many  sides,  that  horses  were  at  last  obtained  from  the  post  establish- 
ment. 

On  the  16th  May  they  were  ready  to  set  out,  and  were  accompanied 
for  some  miles  by  Mr.  Biggs,  whose  friendly  advice  and  assistance 
they  had  often,  during  the  jaunt,  reason  to  be  thankful  for.  It  saved 
them  much  i'  onvenience,  and  was  the  cause  of  their  being  provided 
with  many  little  comforts,  without  which  they  would  have  suffered 
privation. 

Their  proposed  route  was  up  the  valley  of  the  Rio  de  Caxavillo, 
the  river  next  to  the  northward  of  the  Rimac.  Leaving  Lima,  they 
passed  through  the  suburbs  of  San  Lazaro,  at  the  gate  of  which,  and 
for  the  only  time  during  the  journey,  they  were  desired  to  show  their 
passports.  Some  little  difficulty  arose,  and  an  intention  was  expressed 
to  unload  the  baggage-mule  for  examination.  This,  howev^er,  was 
soon  removed  by  the  reading  of  the  passport,  and  the  examination 
ended  in  many  bows,  and  the  repeated  exclamation,  "  Go  on,  go  on ! 
God  speed  you !"  Such  was  the  talismanic  effect  of  an  official  docu- 
ment, at  the  period  cf  our  visit. 

After  leaving  the  city,  their  route  lay  along  the  margin  of  the 
extensive  plain  that  borders  on  the  sea,  at  the  foot  and  over  the  low 
hills  which  skirt  it.  Many  columns  of  dust  and  loose  particles  of  sarul 
were  seen  rising  from  the  heated  plain,  stirred  by  the  action  of  the 
wind,  forming  vortices  of  considerable  diameter  and  elevation.  Clouds 
of  smoke,  too,  were  visible  in  the  distance,  proceeding,  according  to 
the  information  of  their  guides,  from  the  burning  of  the  cane-brakes. 
The  Peruvian  willow,  so  much  resembling  the  Lombardy  poplar  in  its 
form,  was  much  admired,  and  the  contrast  in  the  landscape  between 
the  barren  clay-coloured  hills,  and  the  bright  green  of  the  irrigated 
fields,  was  quite  remarkable. 

At  the  distance  of  three  leagues  from  Lima,  they  passed  tlirougli 
the  ruins  of  an  Inca  town,  situated  (as  they  uniformly  found  them 
afterwards)  just  on  the  border  of  the  irrigated  valley.  The  walls  of 
the  town  were  very  thick,  built  of  mud  and  unbnrnt  brick,  at  right 
angles,  very  much  after  the  modern  manner ;  the  hills,  also,  were  seen 


PERU. 


255 


Tl  e  po  .dat^    7'^  "r  ^'"■'  '^'"'^'^''^  '"^^^'''^^^'^  -^-i  fi«'^l«  of  clover 

in  the  housoT/      ;:,::/ :r    ^'7f-"P^'--'yroo.n 
where  a  good  sunn >•  ^f.    Z  ',      ?•  "''^T     ''''^  ''"''  ^''"^^'"'  ^"^ 

up  their  iartejr;,:;  rtl'i,  r. '.::;''v^^  r^  ^-^ 

large  .asses  of  pifla,  .o„fe  of  the.  12    ''e^    ^  tfr^Tltd^r  " 
■n^e,  and  an  inconvonicnt  burden  to  run  a4ay  vvh  '"'  ' 

lliey  passed  the  niyht  ..n  the  tables  •>n,l  mL       ! 

.t  was  Willi  dilliculiy  |,c  o„,,,,,  ,,„, ,1  I  ■;'      r      ?■  ^"'''  '")'"  "'»' 

(.eon  lvi„g.    The  njl    o,  ^1  .1  e    H       ■'     .°"  "'°  '"*  "'"='=  I'"  l'»<l 

™-i„g  wL-io  j::^  :-z1;:::;^.^t:t  r- '"'°  "-=  '■°"^- 

10  Iho  Holy  Virgin  ,„  ,  roloa  iTem      T  ,  """^  "'  '"'"y"" 

rfistht  nausea  iijio  „■,  w|.,„  """"""'•  «  predncod  a 

.1.  L"  to  .t"  ;;;'" "'"":'°"' """  '■"''-•"i "  •liincm,  to  cone , 

limo,  and  was  leli  ,en,il,lv  ■     I  "  «r«-iencod  for  some 

materia:  daniat  ^      1     '"T  ""''  """"»''  ""  ^owor  Pern.     No 

Of  .i,e  c„n„.r,r„;;:„;!;;;-;;  ;:X'q;;:;  -^'-^^-s .« .he  ,.„p,e 

..-^i'r:t^i;::::;:s-::j-;'o-...o™.„i„™,,e,,  ■ 

Tl»  lund  „f  gr,,„n,!  e i'n,„l  for  ea  1  ,  :':,  '"'r'"^  ""'■"'■ 

"•alor,  nor  was  a  plant  „r  l.ird  roilectod  •  „°S  i  "  ''"f  "' 


258 


PERU. 


ing  the  spots  where  there  had  been  loss  of  Hfe :  a  sight  that  was  nol 
calculated  to  excite  pleasing  thoughts,  and  bringing  to  mind  not  only 
the  great  number  of  murders  that  had  taken  place,  but  the  daily 
occurrence  of  attacks  upon  small  parties  of  travellers  by  the  despera- 
does of  Peru. 

Immediately  on  the  confines  of  this  dreary  waste  is  Yanga,  a 
deserted-looking  place,  but  having  some  good  gardens  and  orchards. 
At  noon  they  I'cached  Santa  Rosa  de  Quivi,  a  small  place,  where  they 
procured  some  good  fruit.  After  travelling  two  leagues,  they  at  dark 
reached  Yaso,  and  stopped  at  the  postmaster's  house ;  he  was  not  at 
home,  but  tiiey  were  permitted  to  sleep  in  the  porch  or  veranda.  No- 
thing edible  was  to  be  found  in  the  village,  except  a  few  potatoes,  after 
supping  on  which  they  disposed  themselves  on  the  clay  and  stones, 
with  their  arms  ready  for  service, — a  precaution  necessary  at  times, 
even  in  the  most  frequented  places,  in  Peru. 

During  the  day,  they  had  Leen  much  annoyed  by  sand-flies,  and 
fleas  were  as  usual  in  myriads  at  night;  besides  these,  they  had  a  few 
musquitoes,  but  the  latter  are  seldom  felt  in  Peru. 

The  screaming  of  parrots  during  the  night  had  announced  that 
some  change  had  taken  place  in  the  vegetation.  In  the  morning  they 
found  this  to  be  the  case.  The  land  in  the  vicinity  of  the  town  was 
cultivated,  and  some  good  orchards  and  fields  of  clover  were  seen  ; 
the  mountains,  which  had  hitherto  been  gray  with  Tillandsias,  had 
now  assumed  a  greenish  tinge.  Agaves  made  their  appearance  here, 
and  a  few  miles  beyond,  the  hills  became  entirely  green :  all  showed 
lliat  a  dillerent  region  had  been  entered.  The  inclined  roofs  of  llie 
huts  proved  that  rains  were  experienced,  and  that  it  was  found  neces- 
sary by  the  inhabitants  to  protect  theni?elves  from  them. 

The  valley  had  now  become  more  contracted,  and  level  ground  was 
seldom  seen  ;  the  mountains  increased  in  elevation,  the  roads  and 
scenery  partaking  of  the  character  of  Madeira.  Cascades  were  seen 
springing  from  almost  the  very  summits  of  the  high  peaks ;  cattle  were 
grazing,  and  occasional  cultivated  patches  were  mingled  with  the 
pasture-grounds;  the  aid  of  irrigation  was  no  longer  necessary ;  nnd 
the  Cordillera  plants  of  the  Flora  Peruviana,  with  the  vegetation  made 
known  by  Humboldt  and  Bonpland,  were  recognised.  At  noon,  nftor 
travelling  six  leagues,  they  reached  Obrajillo,  the  rendezvous  of  the 
two  celebrated  Spanish  botanists,  Ruiz  and  Pavon,  authors  of  the 
Flora  Peruviana. 

There  are  three  towns,  Obrajillo,  Canta,  and  San  Miguel,  about  a 
mile  distant  from  each  other,  said  to  contain  three  or  four  thousand 
inhabitants.     At  Obrajillo,  the  general  to  whom  they  had  letters  ot 


'as  no  I 

)t  only 
;  daily 
espera- 


nga,  a 
chards. 
re  they 
at  dark 

not  at 
I.  No- 
s,  after 
stones, 

times, 

Bs,  and 
i  a  few 

2d  that 
ng  they 
<vn  was 
2  seen  ; 
IS,  had 
;e  here, 
showed 
of  tlie 
[  ncccs- 

nd  was 
ds  and 
re  seen 
le  were 
ith  tiic 
y ;  and 
1  made 
n,  after 
of  the 
of  the 

ibont  a 
lousand 
ters  ot 


I 


% 


•■*»!»' 


PERI. 


267 


•■ntro.lu;tion.  wa.s   not   at   home;    s..,no   Hifllcultv    in    ^cttinff   mulos 
currod  n,  consennonce,  and  it  was  not  until  n.uch  tinu^an    L,"^^ 

were  not  considered  capable  of  stan.iii.g  tl.o  cold  and  fatigue  of  the 
o,.nta,ns,  the  owners  at  Lima  having  refused  to  allow  th  ehu  Is  to 

rnutf^V^"  ^'"'^""'  '''^''"  '^'"'  *"^"'^'  ««"»«i"«  •'^'-'-f  -ne  hundred 
-ttnges.  1  has  a  stone  church,  with  two  towers,  apparently  o  n'e 
a«e  w  ,ch  fronts  on  the  open  square.  The  dwellingllre  of  one  sto  y 
vvithout  floors,  and  almost  without  furniture ;  vot  il  i.  snid  to  be  tife 
jes.dence  of  many  wealthy  people.  How  true  this  may  b  i  w  ! 
nnposs,  le  irom  appearances  to  detern.ine,  for  the  high  Uw  he 
r.ch  and  tl.e  poor,  all  seen,  to  live  in  the  same  style.  ' 

The  difficulties  that  occurred  in  procuring  nudes  for  their  iournev 
ad  delayed  them  so  long  a.s  to  place  it  out  l{  their  power  to  ZZi 

o  nd'int:      ?,  7  "^  f'''"'^  '''''  ^''^^"'"'^'''  "'«  •'^"""■•^1«  beinc. 

«as  seen  as  they  approached,  was  visited,  and  exhibited  a  picturesoue 
and  beauffu  appearance,  even  when  it  was  four  miles  distant.         ' 

sfnt    r    'T      '      '  T  '"'">'  "^'"''y  S"^'-'^«"«  '-^"^l  fi«l<I«-  "H'ler  a  good 
.state  of  cultivation.     The  roadside  itself  looked  like  a    lower-Aiden 

be!!f  nf  7'V^'  ^r'  T'"'  ^''^'''•'^  '^'y  ^'-^^  "''^^  t''«  "ama  used  as  a 
beast^of  burden  ;  the  load  which  they  carry  is  from  seventy  to  ninetj 

•  )  the  19th.  at  an  early  hour,  some  vagabonds,  assuming  the  name 
of  (  iuhans.  went  the  rounds  of  the  village,  helping  thernsolveno 
evei-y  thing  they  desired,  to  the  utter  dismay  of  the  tnhab  an  who 
made  no  resistance.     The  consequence  was.'that  having  nXct'J  to 

lunity  o  doing  it.  This  was  a  serious  inconvenience,  for  Obra  illo 
supplies  the  upper  country  with  bread,  as  Lima  ,loes  th  lower  nU 
■s  procured  with  dilRculty.  except  at  these  two  pla.es.     Potat "e's  w  re 

;^r^:t;.h::;tr'^'-^^^ 

They  were  on  the  route  by  six  o'clock,  and  an  hour's  ride  brought 
.hem  to  a  spot  where  the  river  formed  a  very  picturesque  rapid,  soon 


111 


258 


I'  E  R  U. 


after  which  they  eiitored  into  a  wild  and  romantic  pass,  between  steep 
acclivities  and  precipices  of  inunonHO  ht-ight. 

At  ton  o'clock  they  reached  C^ulnai,  a  distance  of  five  leagues ;  it 
(contains  about  thirty  cottages ;  its  height  is  believed  to  bo  ten  thousand 
foot  above  the  sea,  and  hero  cultivation  ceases,  ending  with  the  potato, 
Tropa'olum,  Oxalis,  and  Basella.  The  second  region  of  plants  also 
terminates  hero,  and  now  ensued  the  "  Paraniera,"  or  pasture  region 
of  tho  Andes,  avoided  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  lower  districts  on 
account  of  the  cold.  This  third  region  gives  growth  to  a  set  of  plants 
which  make  a  gradual  transition  from  those  of  tho  second  region  to 
low  alpine  scraggy  bushes,  none  of  which  exceed  two  foot  in  height. 
The  Paramera  is  remarkable  for  a  dense  sward  of  coarse  grass,  and 
low  herbaceous  |)lants,  principjiiiy  of  the  order  Composite.  The 
(lowors  of  the  latter,  it  was  remarked,  were  particularly  largo  in  pro- 
portion to  tho  plant.  These  form  a  rich  pasturage  for  the  flocks  and 
hords,  which  are  seen  feeding  in  tho  valleys  and  along  the  sides  of  tho 
hills. 

No  cultivation  is  attempted  beyond  Culnai,  and  but  two  species  of 
Cacti  were  met  with  above  this  point. 

They  had  hitherto  for  the  mpst  part  followed  a  northerly  direction, 
I)ut  now  they  diverged  more  to  the  northeast.  The  temperature  was 
falling  as  they  ascended,  the  air  was  clear  and  bracing,  and  the 
scenery  as  they  advanced  become  more  interesting,  and  even  sublime. 
To  its  wild  and  precipitous  features  was  now  added  the  high  snowy 
peak  of  La  Vinda  in  the  distance,  and  some  few  spots  of  snow  were 
occasionally  seen  in  places  sheltered  from  the  sun's  rays.  The  mule- 
paths  had  become  narrow,  and  when  they  met  with  mules,  which  was 
often  the  case,  it  oecame  necessary  to  turn  under  the  rocks,  until  the 
path  was  clear.  On  one  occasion,  one  of  the  party  allowed  his  mule 
to  take  the  outside ;  the  consequence  was  that  a  muleteer  shoved  mule 
and  rider  several  feet  over  the  bank.  No  injury  was  received,  and  the 
dilemma  passed  ofl'  with  a  good  laugh  at  the  fright. 

The  sagacity  of  the  mules  on  these  occasions  is  remarkable.  They 
endeavour  always  to  cling  to  the  wall  side,  and  will  succeed  in  doing 
it,  if  not  prevented  by  the  rider.  Their  caution  is  great  when  they 
apprehend  danger  in  passing  over  steep  places ;  the  instant  danger  was 
anticipated,  the  nose  and  fore  feet  were  used  to  ascertain  its  extent, 
which  done,  the  animals  cautiously  proceeded,  and  reached  the  bottom 
with  great  care  and  ease  both  to  the  rider  and  themselves. 

About  three  o'clock  they  had  gained  the  fourth  or  alpine  region, 
where  they  were  met  with  sharp  and  cutting  winds,  accompanied  with 


PERU. 


359 


hail  and  snow,  that  proved  very  uncomfortablo  to  their  sunburnt  face-. 
»«  a   th  s  j.laco  a  league  in  width,  the  surface  very  uneven  oont.inil 

no  injury,  however,  resulted  from  it.  ^  occurs, 

Casa  Cancha  consists  of  three  huts,  and  is  nothing  more  than  a 
muleteers'  rendezvous  ;  the  place  was  in  charge  of  twoioml  who  in 
expression  ,f  not  in  form,  might  have  been  Taken  for  wit"  ;  T  " 
accommodat.ons.  if  they  maybe  so  called,  were  an  apartmn  common 
to  all  the  mmates.  with  no  fastening  to  the  door  or  vvindows  wirout  a 
fire,  and  nothing  but  the  hard  ground  to  lie  upon 


--     '■'^3*':' 


At  night,  the  thermometer  frequently  falls  to  the  freezing-poim,  and 
the  chmate  .s  hke  that  of  winter;  there  is  not,  however,  a  stlkof  ;ood 
nor  any  resmous  Umbellifer.,  as  on  the  Chilian  Andes  to  be  hadrand 


960 


PERI' 


the  cooking  is  done  with  turf,  when  it  can  be  obtained,  but  dry  cow- 
dung  is  most  conunonly  used  for  this  purpose.  Tliis  is  the  only  and 
the  best  estabhsliment  the  place  aflbrds ;  even  tiie  first  females  in  the 
country  can  procure  no  better  accommodations,  and  will  bear  it  for  the 
night  with  contentment. 

As  a  special  mark  of  distinction,  a  smaller  apartment  was  assigned 
to  our  gentlemen,  in  a  hut  adjoining  that  in  which  their  supper  was 
cooked,  of  which  they  witnessed  the  preparation.  Tiie  cooking-  rantre 
was  of  peculiar  construction,  and  might  servo  as  a  pattern  for  a  motlern 
cuisine.  It  occupied  one  corner  of  the  apartment,  and  ai)pcared  to  be 
conve.iient  and  well  adapted  to  the  wants  of  the  inmates.  The  vi<'netle 
on  the  preceding  page  is  a  representation  of  it  and  the  occujiant. 

After  a  time  the  fore-quarter  of  mutton  made  its  ai)pearance,  in  tiie 
hands  of  their  landlady,  scorched  to  a  cinder.  Being  unprovided  with 
a  knife,  she  began  to  tear  it  into  small  pieces  with  lier  fingers.  Our 
gentlemen  remonstrated,  but  nothing  would  stop  her  until  nearly  every 
morsel  of  it  had  passed  through  her  dirty  hands.  This,  added  to  her 
state  of  intoxication,  caused  some  of  them  to  lose  their  supper  from 
sheer  disgust,  though  all  agreed  that  she  carved  or  tore  it  into  pieces  in 
a  most  dexterous  manner. 

After  sui)per  they  were  informed  by  their  guides,  in  much  conster- 
nation, that  a  band  of  Chilian  marauders  were  apjjroaching ;  the  whole 
establishment  was  in  great  uj-nxar.  The  party,  however,  proved  to  be 
a  convoy.  The  otlicer  in  charge  was  civil,  and  engaged  freely  in  con- 
versation on  the  pending  contest  between  Chili  and  Peru. 

Du)-ing  the  night  the  party  were  very  much  troubled  with  headache 
and  diihcufty  in  breathing ;  they  passed  an  uncomfortable  night  on  the 
clay  floor.  The  thermometer  in  the  doorway  stood  in  the;  moniiiiif 
at  33°.  ^ 

Casa  Cancha  is  in  a  valley  surrounded  by  lofty  mountains.  Its 
height,  upon  the  authority  of  a  gentleman  at  Lima,  is  fourteen  thousand 
five  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Pasturage  in  its  vicinity 
is  good;  sheep  and  cattle  are  abundant:  bread  and  potatoes  are  brougiit 
over  the  mountains  from  Obrajillo ;  of  these  they  have  oftentimes  but  a 
scanty  supply,  which  was  the  case  at  this  period.  The  evening  previous 
to  their  arrival  a  thua  had  taken  place  there,— a  gentleman  had  had  his 
fire-arms  stolen ;  a  great  loss  when  one  takes  into  consideration  t!ie 
natvn-e  of  (he  country,  and  the  dangers  to  be  encountered  in  travelling. 

On  the  morning  of  the  20th.  with  on«.>  exception,  they  were  all 
aflected  with  vomiting,  headache,  and  fever,  and  still  sujlbring  much 
from  difficulty  in  breathing;  this  is  usually  felt  on  first  \isiting  these 
elevated  regions,  and  is  said  to  be  particularly  so  at  night. 


PERU. 


261 


ho?I/r'''""f  '''"'''•  '"^  boisterous,  ^vith  frequent  hail-showers.  that 

^elves.      Then    breakfast  vvas  ,uorc  acceptable  than  the  last  n-ht'. 
supper ;  ,t  consisted  of  olla-podrida  and  milk  ^^ 

On  the  21st,  they  had  determined  to  proceed  to  Bancs,  which  from 
the  description  of  their  guides,  .ho  were  ignorant.  ho;evcr  ;fr 
rou  e  beyond  Casa  Cancha,  they  had  been  led  to  b  lievZa  'on  the 
eastern  slope  of  the  mountain. 

Thoy  started  at  an  early  hour,  with  the  wikl  geese  flyi„.  and  feedin-^ 

.  -^nted  V  h     r     r"  ."^"'^  '■  '"^  "^"'"S  to  their  guides  being  unac- 
•ve,  extensive  plams.  covered   with  coarse  herbage.      A  variety  of 

fecdmg.     At  eleven  o'clock  they  stumbled,  as  if  bv  accident  on  the 
place,  consisting  of  a  number  of  huts ;  one  of  these  shewed     e  welcom 
^  of  bread  for  sale,  viz.,  a  basket  stuck  upon  a  long  pole; Tnd  tZ 
uere  fortunate  m  procuring  some  small  rolls  "^ 

thet'Zd'T  rir'  '"  ''  "  '"  """''>^  °^  ^  ^'■•->-  -'-'  --^"^  here 
they  found  a  goodly  company  of  Peruvian  gentlemen,  collected  from 
various  quarters,  and  among   then,    the  general  to  ^ho.        ey  had 

1  It       ^  ''?''T"^  '"'"''^'  "'"^"  *''«'••  ^'ismounting,  and  gave 

1    n  of  T       '  '"'  7'""^'  '^•-  ^'"'"■^^^^-'  -'-'^  --  readily 

Cirhnt  ,      7r  ""n^  '"  '  '"'S^  gourd-shell,  and  consisted  of  a 

t^^\^^  U'  "       '  "";  """'^'  '^^''-S^^"^'  r«PP--'  and  small 
rhlt    hV  i         ,  n  "^'"■'"•'  "-^  ""-'  •^"'••^'''^-^  "'«'•«  disappearinc., 

that  the  Spanish  Dons  now  and  then  would  partake  of  the  tlits  by 
fcac  ,ng   over  their   shoulders   from  behind!     This  repast  wa    w eU 

r:"^;:;:;?  r  ^°^"  '--'-^  ^-'"^^-^'^  '-^  ^«  -^'«  ^^- - 

On  further  examination,  the  hut  proved  to  be  provided  with  some  few 
of  the  necessaries  of  life,  although  the  supply  was  not  large. 

rhe  Peruvians  sent  for  the  superintendent  of  the  mine,  and  in  the 
u  an  time  showed  the  process  of  extracting  the  silver,  w  ich  w.as  a! 

r^h  :r"  '?"'"^  t  """  ^  '•^^^"^^"-  -^^^ ;  i;  is  then  th  ;„ 

mto  a  la  gc  round  vat  and  mixed  with  mercury  and  water-  six  or 
o.ght  mules  are  then  turned  in  and  driven  round'and  rou^;!,  unUrth" 


262 


PERU. 


amalgam  is  formed;  it  is  then  put  into  a  vei5sel,  and  stirred  witii  watei 
until  the  earth  mixes  with  it,  and  the  water  being  poured  oil',  leaves  the 
amalgam,  whence  the  mercury  is  finally  evaporated. 

The  ore  appears  to  be  taken  almost  entirely  from  the  surface.  It  is 
poor,  and  the  mines  do  not  yield  much  profit.  There  are  many  old 
veins  that  have  been  extensively  worked,  but  owing  to  their  depth  have 
been  abandoned. 

The  superintendent  arrived  after  a  while  ;  he  proved  to  be  an  English 
miner  (Mr.  R.  Bevan),  who  had  been  twenty  years  in  tiie  country.  ITu 
was  delighted  to  see  our  party,  saying  that  an  American  and  Englisli- 
man  were  all  the  same  in  Peru,  and  that  he  had  not  heard  his  own 
language  spoken  for  two  years.  He  informed  them  that  the  old 
Spaniards  had  worked  the  mines  ciieaper  than  any  one  has  been  able 
to  do  since.  They  were  large  landholders,  and  contrived  to  keep  them- 
selves in  debt  to  their  tenants  ;  this  they  always  paid  in  manufactured 
goods,  very  much  in  demand  with  the  Indians  who  worked  the  mines, 
thus  making  a  double  profit  on  the  wages.  At  the  present  time  the 
mmes  are  worked  by  Indians  of  a  mixed  blood,  who  have  a  language 
of  their  own.  They  are  much  addicted  to  the  use  of  coca  (the  leaf  of 
the  Eryfhroxylon  coco,  which  is  mixed  and  masticated  with  "  Quinoa,'") 
and  without  a  supply  of  this  leaf  they  will  not  work. 

Mr.  Bevan  took  the  party  to  the  mine,  which  is  some  distance  up 
he  mountain.  Much  difficulty  was  experienced  in  breathing  the 
rarefied  atmosphere,  and  great  fiitiguo  in  walking,  so  much  so,  that  it 
was  necessary  to  stop  every  few  stejis  to  rest;  and  what  was  sur- 
prising, Mr.  Bevan  and  tlie  Indians  who  acconipaniod  them,  ai)peare(l 
to  be  more  affected  than  any  of  the  party.  He  assured  them  it  was  the 
same,  even  with  the  Indians  born  on  the  spot,  showing  that  neither 
time  nor  other  circumstances  can  acclimatize  a  constit.ition  to  this 
elevated  region.  On  reaching  the  mouth  of  the  mine,  ihey  saw  several 
emaciated  and  gliastly-looking  Indians  seated  near  the  entrance;  tlicy 
descended  a  few  yards  into  it,  but  found  that  time  would  not  admit  of 
the  delay  nccessaiy  to  pass  down  to  the  places  wheie  they  were  at  work ; 
and  wishing  t(j  devote  their  attention  to  the  interesting  region  of  botany 
in  which  they  then  were,  tiiey  gave  up  their  purpose  of  descending. 

On  no  part  of  their  journey  did  they  find  so  many  remarkable  plants 
as  on  this  mountain ;  for  information  respecting  these,  the  reader  is 
referred  to  the  Botanical  Report. 

Towards  the  middle  of  the  afternoon  they  returned  to  the  hut,  when 
they  determined  to  proceed  to  Banos.  Previous  to  leaving  Alpamarca, 
they  had  some  diificiilfy  with  the  guides,  who  were  dissatisfied  with 
their  bargain ;  it  therefore  required  some  management  to  prevent  then^ 


-  'tap 


.Af 


P  F;  R  TT 


QAQ 


^*---fc.^-* 


PERU. 


263 


fiom  deserting  altogether,  and  caused  our  gcntleine-i  some  fear  lest 
they  might  be  coi^pclled  to  return  ;  but  after  much  dispute,  the  guides 
consented  to  proceed,  although  it  must  be  allowed  that  the  bargain 
was  far  from  being  advantageous  to  them. 

Along  tiie  road  to  Banos  they  passed  some  high  ridges,  with  snow 
and  ice  coming  at  times  down  to  ,he  path  ;  also  lakes  in  deep  ravines, 
somewhat  resembling  small  craters,  which,  like  all  the  rest  they  had 
seen,  were  tenanted  by  numerous  water-fowl. 

The  crest  of  the  Andes  did  not  appear  here  quite  so  brood  as  it  had 
been  found  lo  be  four  leagues  to  the  southward,  but  its  elevation  was 
iftought  to  be  greater.  The  contiguous  ranges  of  snowy  peaks,  in  the 
direction  of  Pasco,  were  very  striking.  The  Indians  have  names  for 
all  the  most  remarkable  ones,  but  the  Spaniards  embrace  the  whole 
together  with  the  principal  one,  under  the  name  of  La  Vinda 

From  the  direction  of  the  descent  to  the  northward  and  westward, 
hey  began  to  suspect  they  were  descending  upon  the  western  slope  of 
the  Cordilleras  nistead  of  the  eastern;  this  proved  to  be  the  case 
which  was  no  small  disappointment,  as  it  was  their  original  intention 
o  reach  the  wooded  district  on  the  eastern  slope,  termed  "montanas" 
In  this  they  were  therefore  disappointed.  As  they  proceeded,  the 
country  improved,  the  climate  became  milder,  and  the  soil  richer-  on 
their  way  they  crossed  a  small  stream,  which  was  said  to  be  the 
source  of  the  river  Chancai. 

At  dark  they  reached  Banos,  which  is  computed  to  be  upwards  of 
five  leagues  from  Casa  Cancha.  Banos  is  considered  to  be  at  about 
the  same  elevation  as  Culnai,  but  the  descent  is  more  rapid  to  the 
former.  According  to  the  custom  of  the  country,  they  applied  to  the 
alcalde  for  accommodations,  who  is  obliged,  according  to  law,  to  fur- 
nish travellers  with  a  house,  if  the  town  should  possess  none  for  the 
use  of  strangers,  free  of  expense,  and  to  provide  them  with  a  cook  • 
the  travellers  buy  their  own  p-ovisions,  and  pay  for  the  cookin^r,  one 
real  for  each  dish.  ° 

Banos  is  celebrated  for  its  minnral  hot  springs,  from  which  it 
derives  its  name;  they  flow  from  the  base  of  a  high  mountain. 

The  town  consists  of  about  thirty  houses,  and  a  church,  of  which 
the  inhabitants  are  very  proud.  It  is  a  neat  village,  situated  in  a  deep 
ravine,  by  the  side  of  a  tumbling  stream,  bounded  on  both  sides  bv 
mountains  three  thousand  feet  high.  The  mountain  sides  appear  so 
precipitous,  that  the  remark  was  made  by  one  of  the  party,  "  (hat  he 
could  not  conceive  why  the  cattle  that  were  feeding  on  their  sides  did 
not  fall  ofK" 

Along   the   margin  of  the  stream,   carnations,  pinks,  stock  gilly- 


264 


PERU. 


flowers,  and  French  marigolds   are   naturalized;   the  pinks  grow  in 
immense  numbers  in  every  crack  and  crevice.  * 

The  cabbages  here  arc  woody  and  arborescent,  like  the  cow  or  tree- 
'•abbagc,  the  trunk  and  branches  being  quite  hard  and  covered  with 
bark;  they  have  at  a  distance  some  resemblance  to  the  Brugmansia 
■iuaveoiens. 

The  thermometer  stood  at  50°,  and  the  weather,  in  comparison  witli 
the  day  before,  was  quite  mild. 

The  iiot  spring  is  close  to  tiio  village ;  owing  to  their  thermometoi 
being  for  low  teinperaturcs,  not  graduated  above  140°,they  did  not  get 
its  exact  temperature;  but  eggs  put  in  were  cooked  in  about  three 
minutes,  and  their  tea  was  i)repared  by  a  vessel  being  placed  in  it,  so 
that  it  could  not  be  llir  from  the  boiling  point,  at  ten  thousand  feet 
elevation.  No  steam  was  seen  to  issue  from  the  orifice,  but  va[)our 
rises  afterwards  to  mark  the  spot;  there  is  also  a  strong  smell  of 
sulphur,  an<l  at  night  a  thick  cloud  hangs  over  the  spring.  The  water 
was  tasteless,  and  tliere  was  a  coating  of  the  red  oxide  of  iron  on  the 
substances  over  which  tlie  water  had  passed ;  and  in  some  places  a 
white  powder  was  observable.  A  few  yards  distant  from  the  hot 
spring  was  a  cold  one,  which,  mingled  with  the  hot,  is  found  to  have 
a  very  agreeable  temperature  f(M-  a  bath,  in  which  the  people  bathe 
and  women  wash  clothes ;  the  hot  spring  was  estimated  to  dis(;luirge 
several  gallons  in  a  second. 

The  soil  in  this  valley  is  good,  and  cultivated  in  some  places  with 
care:  no  fruit  was  observed.  The  largest  trees  were  a  species  of 
Elder,  and  a  Buddlea ;  Calceolaria,  Salvia,  and  Heliotropium,  abounded. 
On  the  22d  they  determined  to  remain  at  Banos.  At  an  early  houi 
in  the  morning  they  found  the  village  deserted,  and  it  appeared  on 
in(ii;irv  that  all  the  inhabitants  had  gone  abroad  to  tend  their  herds. 
For  the  purpose  of  taking  as  wide  a  range  as  possible  in  search  of 
plants,  our  gentlemen  separated,  some  going  up  while  others  descended . 
they  all  met  with  great  success  in  their  botanical  researches.  Dr. 
Pickering  attempted  the  ascent  of  one  of  the  summits ;  by  noon  he 
had  reached  a  high  elevation,  and  looking  up,  he  espied  a  huge  condor 
soaring  down  the  valley.  He  stopped  £o  observe  the  majestFc  bird,  as 
it  sailed  slowly  along.  To  his  surprise,  it  took  a  turn  around  him, 
then  a  second  and  a  third,  the  last  time  drawing  so  near  that  he  began 
to  apprehend  it  meditated  an  attack.  He  describes  himself  as  bc'ing 
in  the  worst  possible  condition  for  a  fight,  his  strength  being  exhausted 
by  climbing,  and  his  right  hand  having  been  lamed  for  some  days 
from  a  hurt.  The  nature  of  the  ground,  too,  was  any  thing  but 
favourable  for  defence ;  but  there  was  nothing  loft  but  to  prepare  for  a 


PERU, 


865 


figh  .  and  vy„h  .h,s  ,n,ent  he  took  a  seat  and  drew  his  knife.  At  the 
....tant  as  .f  nUunulatc,,!  by  the  sight  of  the  weapon,  the  bird  whir^d  off 
.n  a  d.nerent  du-e<.,i„n.     Dr.  Pickering  confessed,  however  hum    ath,! 

;-:Str:;rt::^i:ir----- 

d.spos,t,on  to  assail  the  human  race  than  any  we  heard  "7 

vnllev    but  til"'  "''   '""^''^  ^"   ''''''^'  '^'  '''^SO  that  bounded  the 
valley    but  there  were  many  higher  beyond.     The  view  thence  ^yZ 

a,>  ce  ta  ,  ty  He  .iescended  by  the  same  route  again  to  the  village 
The  a  calde  discovormg  that  one  of  the  party  (Mr  Aiiatc^  w.  n! 
arnst,  became  extremely  anxious  that  he  should  maket'stLr:  :i 
iather.jn-law  an  old  revolutionary  soldier,  who  resided  there  AsM^,e 
son-n>law  had  een  so  attentive,  and  offered  them  so  ma"y  civil  ti^T 
an.ong  others  the  loan  of  a  silver  dish,  spoon,  and  fork,  he  co^d  d o 
no  less  than  gratify  these  wishes.  For  this  purpose  the  Z 
dressed  himself  in  his  uniform.     The  task  of  sji^g  ^f  .I,    V  tl^ 

::::•  io:  The^i  ^^  "'^'''^  t-^'^'  -^^  ^''  excitem::: :: 

cxeuion.     Ihe  old  man  was  greatly  delighted  with   the   picture    ns 
u  re  a,  those  about  him,  exeept  the  son-in-law,  who  expressed  .la 
hssa  ,sfact,o„  that  it  should  be  without  legs,-it  bein/only  a  IT 

:f  d~r^f  t:  'T:r '-'-' ''--  ^-^  onr  i:::^^i:J^d 

no    admit  of  ,t.     The  sketch  was  given  to  him,  which  has  placed  it 

Ml.  Agate's  first  effort  was  deemed  so  successful  that  his  renutn  ion 

ned  upon  by  the  sacristan  to  engage  him  to  paint  the  four  Evan.^ 
s  for  the  church.    Price  was  no  object,  provided  he  could  do  hafd 
they  would  besides  consider  it  as  a  great  favour 

Some  of  the  bystanders  proposed  to  have  the  constable  painted  -ind 
pomtcd  to  a  strapping  big  negro,  painteci,  and 

The  houses  literally  contained  no  furniture,  and  the  silver  lent  to  our 
pa  ty  was  be  leved  to  constitute  the  only  valuables  in  the  place  T|^ 
only  articles  besides  that  were  seen,  w.re  some  roughly-made  woo 

able,  with  a  stool  or  two,  and  a  bedstead  made  of  canes  and  pinstere 

the  Fai   VVest,  or  in  the  poorest  suburbs  of  our  eastern   cities    are 

persons  to  be  seen  living  in  such  a  miserable  manner.     The  country! 

VOL.  I.  X  34  "^ 


I 


266 


PERU. 


people  of  Peru,  notwithstanding  they  are  surmnndofl  with  every  thing 
to  make  thorn  comfortabio,  want  tlie  knowledge  and  industry  to  use  the 
advantages  nature  has  given  them. 

On  the  33d  they  left  Pnnos  on  their  return.  Notwithstanding  their 
horses  had  had  sonu  lo-,  meir  i  .icks  were  in  a  shocking  state,  but  the 
sores  did  not  s'jiin  to  br  rcn'irded  much  by  tlic  guides,  who  applied 
soap  to  them ;  they  scolded  and  blamed  the  English  saddles,  which 
they  called  "  Gallapagos  turtles." 

The  party  had  determined  to  make  another  visit  to  Alpamarca,  but 
the  guides  would  not  listen  to  it,  giving  as  a  reason  that  they  should 
have  their  horses  stolen  if  they  went.  While  this  discussion  was 
going  on,  they  met  a  person  who  informed  them  that  the  only  persons 
now  there  weie  Indians.  As  their  only  inducement  to  return  was  the 
agreeable  company  they  had  left,  they  acceded  to  their  guides'  views, 
and  taking  another  direction,  arrived  at  Casa  Cancha  in  the  afternoon. 
At  night  some  Chilian  cavalry  arrived.which  caused  great  alarm  among 
Ihe  occupants  of  the  huts  and  the  guides,  for  fear  of  losing  their  horses, 
a  disaster  which  they  said  often  occurred  when  such  visiters  came. 
The  commander  proved  to  be  a  gentlemanlv  person,  and  rendered  our 
party  much  assistance.  This  party  had  left  Pasco,  the  chief  mining 
place  of  Lower  Peru,  in  the  morninir,  and  represented  it  as  a  place  of 
considerable  trade,  containing  many  foreign  residents,  including  English, 
American,  French,  and  German.  He  slated  that  the  Quichua  language 
was  spoken  there,  and  that  the  Spanish  was  not  commonly  understood. 

The  town  of  Pasco  is  at  an  elevation  of  thirteen  thousand  feet,  and 
situated  in  the  plain  of  San  Juan,  at  the  head  of  two  ravines  or  gullies, 
one  called  Rumiallana,  leading  to  the  northward,  and  the  other 
Huanuco,  to  the  eastward,  where  the  two  great  veins  of  Colquijirca  anil 
Pariajirca  unite.  These  are  supposed  to  extend  some  seventy  miles  in 
length,  and  the  town  of  Pasco  is  situated  at  their  junction,  a  plot  of 
which,  taken  from  the  survey  of  Mr.  Trevithick,  is  given  on  the  next 
page.  The  part  of  the  ground  that  has  been  broken  up,  and  in  which  ores 
have  been  found,  is  about  half  a  mile  in  length  in  a  north  and  south  direc- 
tion, and  about  one-fourth  of  a  mile  east  and  west.  Within  the  whole  of 
this  extent,  ores  have  been  mined  of  greater  or  less  value,  and  the  mines 
formerly  worked  and  now  deserted  are  said  to  amount  to  upwards  of  a 
thousand :  some  of  these  are  represented  on  the  plan  by  round  marks. 
The  town  of  Pasco  is  surrounded  on  three  sides— northeast  and 
south  by  hills  of  blue  limestone;  on  the  west  the  hills  are  of  sandstone. 
and  on  the  southwest  of  a  blue  slate.  Through  the  latter  rock  the  adit 
which  comes  up  from  the  lake  of  Quilacocha  has  been  driven,  until  it 


reached  the  metalliferous  ground  in  the  district  of  Santa  llosa. 


All 


PERU. 


267 


the  ores  of  the  Cerro  are  ferruginous,  and  the  silver  nearest  to  the 
surface  is  cnntainc.l  i„  an  ochreous  iron-.stone.  In  particular  spots  the 
silver  IS  found  m.xed  with  lead  and  copper,  and  at  variable  depths  in 
different  localities  the  ores  rest  on  a  hod  of  solid  iron  pyrites,  which  in 
some  mines  yield  silver  and  in  others  not. 


IPSiAlKT  ©M'  S'ASOO, 


Although  there  appeared  to  be  two  veins-  crossing  each  other  at 

nght  angles,  yet  strictly  speaking  there  is  but  one,  the  great  vein  of 

oquij.rca.   Tins  vein  comes  in  from  the  hill  of  Uliachim,  on  the  south 

to  o  7"',        7«      T^^'  ^'"  "^°''  "metalliferous  ground  to  the 
edge  of  the  plain  of  San  Juan  on  the  north. 

mo?"  -I'r  '7''  «7'»«  lode,  generally  speaking,  the  richest  ores  are 
met  with.     On  each  side  of  the  vein  an  extensive  dej,„sit  of  ore  is 

fz^n^zt:"" '''' '-'-'' " '''  "^''-^  -^^-'y  «^  "-- 

The  plain  of  San  Juan  is  dividedinto  many  mining  districts,  to  which 

f  reso'l"  'T."^  y        '"^f"^  ''r  """  ^^^'">'-     Tf-  -uthernmost 
'  f  these  IS  called  Zauricocha,  and  contain,  several  mines,  from  which 

^.eat  wealth  has  been  produced  since  the  revolution.   This  is  the  region 

r  't;  f         ""''^T  "''^  ^^""  "^^^^  P^^-^-^d,  and  it  has  been 
always  looked  upon  as  the  most  important  district  in  the  Cerro      It  is 
l-.ei.eved  that  farther  south,  between  this  point  and  the  hill  of  Uliachim 
some  good  ores  exist;  but  no  attempt  has  yet  been  made  to  mine  there' 


868  PER  U- 

In  the  district  of  Snntn  Rosn,  lyinK  west  of  Zaiiricoclm,  the  prentest 
quantity  of  ore  has  hccn  raised:  it  has  l)eeii  worked  down  to  the  level 
of  the  adit;  and  in  several  mines,  whero  good  ore  has  been  discovered, 
they  have  descended  to  a  lower  level,  drainage  having  heon  etllacted  by 
hand-pitinping. 

On  the  east  of  the  Znuricocha  is  the  district  called  Arenillapata, 
in  which  few  mines  are  now  worked ;  the  ore  which  is  produced, 
although  abundant  in  particular  s[tots,  is  not  rich. 

Immediately  within  the  town  there  are  some  few  mines  that  are   r\ 
good,  but  there  has  never  been  any  extensive  work  carried  on.     It  is 
believed  that  profitable  ore  yet  remains  to  be  discovered. 

Cayac,  another  district  lying  north  of  Zauricocha,  is  worked  to 
some  profit ;  the  upper  adit  from  the  northwest  reaches  it,  and  several 
mines  in  it  have  been  yielding  good  returns. 

To  the  north  of  Cayac  are  the  Chucarillo  and  Z  luracancha  dis- 
tricts, the  working  of  the  mines  in  which  had  been  impeded  by  water 
accumulated  since  the  breaking  out  of  the  revolutionary  war.  The 
upper  adit,  leading  from  the  guiiy  of  Ilumiallana,  is  carried  above 
them,  and  they  consequently  derive  no  benefit  from  it. 

To  the  north  of  these  last  two  districts  lies  the  plain  of  San  Juan  : 
thorc  are  a  few  small  veins  running  through  some  parts  of  it,  but  no 
important  discovery  has  yet  been  made,  although  many  mines  have 
been  opened  and  carried  down  to  depths  of  from  one  hundred  and 
twenty  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  The  lower  adit,  from  the  gully 
of  Rumiallana,  is  to  run  through  it,  and  may  open  to  the  proprietors 
some  discoveries  to  recompense  them  for  their  labour. 

The  whole  number  of  mines  considered  rich  in  the  different  districts, 
may  l)e  enumerated  as  follows : 

In  Zauricocha 13  to  14. 

Santa  Rosa 20  to  25. 

Cayac       10  to  12. 

Chucarilln 5  to    6. 

Zauracancha      .....  10  to  12. 


Each  of  these  mines  comprises  a  space  of  one  hundred  and  eighty 
feet  long  by  ninety  feet  wide. 

The  silver  f)res  are  estimated  by  a  measure  called  a  box  of  ore, 
which  contains  twenty-five  mule-loads  of  ten  arrobas  or  twenty-five 
pounds  each.  Each  box  varies  in  value  from  six  Spanish  marks  to 
three  thousand ;  the  former  being  the  lowest  which,  under  the  most 
favourable  circumstances,  will  pay  the  cost  of  working.  The  poorest 
is  of  course  the  most  abundant. 


P  ERf 


200 


In  1825, 
183G, 
1897, 
1898, 
1899, 
1830, 
1831, 
1839, 
1833, 
1834, 
1835, 
1836, 
1837, 
1838, 
1839, 


998  bora, 

818 
10(J8 

999 

359 

457 

G35 

994 
1133 
1119 
1148 
991 
1179 
1179 
1910 
















*       •       •       • 




MARCH.  OZ. 

weighing   5(!,971  0 
163,859 

991,707  7 
901,338 
89,031 
96,965 

135,139  3 

219,380  5 

250,333  9 

967,363  4 

976,813  9 

944,404  1 

234,785  3 

348,092  6 

279,960  3 


To  tins  may  be  added  one-fifth  for  silver  that  has  not  paid  duties. 

The  first  adit  of  nnportanco  driven  into  the  mines  ^vL  that  of  San 
J  das.  .^.eh  passed  the  wall  of  the  vein  of  Zauricocha  in  If  yt 
1791.     By  means  of  this  adit,  very  rich  ores  were  raised,  espeial  v 
ftorn  the  kmg  s  n.ine.     In  the  year  1808,  the  present  deep  adht^ 
uhich  so  much  was  ex,,ected,  was  begun  ;  for  covering  the  elnse 
of  constructmg  U,  me  body  of  miners  imposed  a  duty  of  one  real    o 

leached  „,  18J0  the  sou;hwest  edge  of  the  metalliferous  ground  of 
Santa  Rosa,  up  to  which  time  the  whole  of  its  course  had  been  in  u 

b  ve  1  I      r  7f''y.^''^'  --  ^'-n  commenced,  fifty.four  Lt 
above  the  level  of  the  main  one,  and  both  of  these  works  have  been 
rried  on  until  the  present  time.     The  ground  above  beinJbe tt!" 
dapted  fen-  dnou^g  in,  the  upper  adit  is  in  advance  of  the  lo^er  ^e 
thousand  five  hundred  feet,  and  has  arrived  at  the  district  7caZ 
rhe  lower  adit  has  reached  the  mines  situated  upon  the  vein  of  zl2 
oocha.  without  having  cut  a  single  vein  or  deposit  of  ore  in  its  traTs 
There  are  severa   rich  mines  a  little  in  advance  of  this  adit,  so m    of 
which  have  been  hitherto  drained  by  hand-pumps,  and  which  must  be 
hor  ly  very  much  benefited  by  it;  for.  although  they  e.tend  befo  v  the 

will  e    r     '"''  '"r^''!'^^^^  ^°'"«  '''y  f-t  of  pump-lif  ,e 
It  will  excite  sx>me  wonder  that  steam  is  not  now  employed  in  the 
d  aining  of  such  va  uable  mines.     It  has,  however,  bee.i  tried ;  a  few 
J  ears  previous  to  the  revolution,  four  steam-engines,  of  thirty  horse 


270 


PERU. 


power  eacli,  were  brought  out  from  England,  ami  three  of  them  put 
up  in  tlie  districts  of  Santa  Rosa,  Cayac,  and  Zauracaneha.  Tiiat  of 
Zauricocha  was  not  set  up,  but  the  other  tliree  were  vvorlted  with  some 
suecess. 

A  level  was  driven  from  the  engine-sliaft  <>{'  Santa  llosa,  into  tiie 
mines  of  Zam'icocha,  and  rich  ores  were  raised.  Tiic  engine  of 
Caya''  did  little  more  than  assist  thniof  Zauricociia,  which,  on  account 
of  the  greater  quantity  of  water,  was  barely  alilo  to  do  the  work 
reciuired  of  it.  The  expense  incurred  by  tJie  house  of  Abodia  i'l  liiis 
undertaking  was  upwards  of  six  lumdred  thousand  dollais,  and  at  the 
moment  when  they  had  begun  to  receive  a  good  nilmu  for  iheir 
capital,  the  nn-olution  i>n>ke  out,  and  llie  troubI(!s  incident  to  it  piil  ii 
stop  to  their  work,  and  left  thi;m  uitli  that  amount  of  loss.  Subse- 
(luently,  at  the  close  of  the  war,  the  engine  of  Santa  Rosa  was  again 
put  in  operation;  and  in  ])arts  oi'tlie  years  JSliO  and  1827,  a  consider- 
able quantity  of  silver  was  produced,  by  means  of  the  drainage  cflectcd 
by  it. 

Some  abortive  attempts  were  made  to  use  the  engine  of  Zauricocha. 
from  1829  to  18uii;  but  '^ince  the  latter  period  they  have  all  been 
abandoned,  as  unserviceable., 

Tiie  establishments  for  grinding  and  amalgamating  the  ores  are 
situated  at  from  one  mile  to  three  leagues  from  the  mines:  those 
nearest  the  town  are  (!efl(;ient  in  water  for  several  months  in  'he  \i!ar. 
The  construction  of  all  tlieje  mills  is  rude,  and  uuich  power  is  lost. 
A  mill  w  ill  grind  two  hundred  boxes  of  the  hardest  ore,  if  it  have  a 
constant  stream  of  water.  The  amalgamation  of  the  ore  with  mercury 
is  cHected  by  its  l)eing  trodde..  by  horses  in  circulai-  enclosures, 
containing  tVom  five  to  ten  boxc-^.  The  consumption  of  mercurv, 
including  mechanical  and  chemical  loss,  is  about  one  pound  for  each 
marc  of  silver  prcnluced. 

No  ;  ttempts  have  yet  been  made  at  roasting  any  of  the  ores. 

Coal  mines  are  met  with  in  various  )iarts  of  the  counlrv,  at  the 
<listance  of  from  two  to  seven  leagues;  I  lie  ja'icc  is  one  real  for  an 
arroba,  but  might  bo  much  reduced  if  the  business  wore  properly 
attended  to. 

Various  jilans  have  been  formed  at  Lima,  and  in  England,  to  pur- 
chase and  work  these  mines,  l»ut  with  what  success  is  very  unceiiuin; 
the  atteiTiprs  have  generally  been  supi)osed  to  have  resulted  in  a  loss. 
Speculation  is  always  rife  in  search  of  these  valuable  ores,  and  pros- 
pects of  great  <:aiu  are  invariably  held  out  to  those  who  cn"-aL'e  in 
them  ;  but  there  is  much  dillieulty  in  getting  the  business  into  successful 
operation.     The  great  error  connnitted  by  ull  the  English  companies 


PERU. 


871 


„i    •  ,  ^    '^'  numbers  of  peon b,  eniraf'ed  nt  Inrr!, 

Tl,„,         ™"' ""'■''  "I'  "'"oliof  the  funds  tofoie  any  wort  was  be,j„r. 

usnonsn,    f„r  ,1    ■    "  '     "'  """''  "•■'-"='  ™-°  ''igher,  and  ll,„ 

o.pc„sc.   for  ,l,c,r  „„p„,,„„„„  )„  „,,,„„„_  ,„^j^  ,,_^t   _^,^^  ^^^^1,^, 

Jollar,  for  every  ,1    "1;':^*'     T  "'  ^'''^  '■°°'  "''  ""^  '"'"  '-^  •<>" 

The  groat  dilliculty  to  secure  success  spom«  t^  v»  •  •■,-      . 

.ho  pro^r  <,rai„„,e,  .^Kie,„„e  pre.,,::,::;'  :,:/:  ZT^,'!:' 

-v..  d=.r„.  Of  ,„..,„,  :„  n;n;.^:.:rixit>r::w 


272 


PERU. 


anj'  water  to  raise,  as  this  is  the  most  expensive  part  of  the  process : 
the  ere  is  ver^^  rapidly  mined,  after  the  water  is  drained  off.  The 
remuneration  given  to  the  proprietors  of  the  steam-engines,  is  one-fifth 
of  the  ore  raised ;  tiiis  was  the  sum  paid  to  the  old  company,  and  the 
same  was  stipulated  to  be  paid  to  the  parties  who  undertook  the  same 
work  in  ]  829. 

Mines  are  to  be  bought  at  all  times,  on  reasonable  terms ;  for  the 
miners  often  desire  to  retire  from  business,  or  wish  to  sell  for  the  sake 
of  profit,  or  are  not  able  to  carry  them  on  from  want  of  capital. 
There  is,  however,  one  difficulty  a  purchaser  has  to  contend  with,  for 
the  mines  are  almost  always  held  in  small  shares  among  a  number  of 
relatives,  many  of  whom  refuse  to  sell  their  small  interest.  This  makes 
the  mines  less  desirable  property,  as  difficulties  almost  invariably  occur 
with  these  small  proprietors. 

No  miner  who  has  worked  with  reasonable  prudence,  steadiness. 
and  a  sufficient  capital,  has  failed  to  do  well  since  the  year  1833. 
The  produce  of  the  mines  of  the  Ccrro  from  that  time,  has  not  varied 
much  from  one  year  to  another,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  table  heretofore 
given.  The  undertakings  which  have  been  carried  on  upon  an  extensive 
scale,  are  those  which  have  prospered  most.  There  were  many 
difficulties  that  the  first  mining  companies  had  to  encounter,  that  othcn 
need  not  again  apprehend ;  the  local  interests  are  better  understood 
and  would  be  more  respected ;  a  better  knowledge  of  the  people  pre- 
vails, and  of  the  modes  of  mining ;  and  the  people  themselves  have 
lost  some  of  their  prejudices  against  foreigners.  Persons  may  now  lie 
obtained  to  assist  in  the  direction  as  well  as  to  afford  advice  to  the 
agents  who  may  be  entrusted  with  the  affairs  of  the  company,  so  that 
the  prospects  of  success  in  the  operations  are  decidedly  more  fiivour- 
able  than  they  were  fifteen  years  ago.  But  although  the  acliial 
operation  of  mining  may  be  more  advantageous,  yet  the  country  in  its 
political  and  commercial  character  has  very  much  deteriorated,  and 
it^  is  to  be  apprehended,  that  but  little  capital  will  be  invested  in 
it  until  there  is  a  great  change  in  its  rulers  as  well  as  in  its  people, 
and  until  governmo'it,  the  laws,  and  good  order,  become  as  well 
established  as  they  are  in  Chili.  All  the  friends  of  Peru,  seein,  how- 
ever, to  be  well  satisfied,  from  appearances,  that  the  day  is  not  fur 
distant  when  she  will  see  the  restoration  of  permanent  tranr|uillity. 

To  return,  after  this  digression,  to  our  party:  they  had  much 
agreeable  conversation  with  the  Chilian  officers,  and  passed  a  pleasant 
evening.  As  I  have  before  spoken  of  the  accommodations,  it  is 
needless  to  say  that  they  were  not  improved. 

On  the  morning  of  the  21th,  the  thermometer  stood  at  36°  in  the 


PERU. 


273 


nut,  and  on  the  rivulet  there  was  ice  one-fourth  of  an  inch  thick. 
Mr.  Brackcnridse  gathered  seeds  here  of  a  curious  species  of  Cactus, 
which  grows  plentifully  all  over  the  mountains  in  dense  tufts;  from 
the  quantities  of  down  or  fine  hair  upon  it,  it  has  the  appearance  at  a 
distance  of  a  white  sheep,  so  much  so  that  a  group  of  them  was 
sometimes  mistaken  for  a  flock. 

Although  Casa  Cancha  was  a  wretched  hovel,  and  had  every  thing 
m  It  to  disgust,  yet  the  situation  was  one  of  great  beauty.  In  the 
stream  that  flowed  near  it,  were  fish  of  from  six  to  eight  inches  in 
length,  but  none  of  these  were  taken,  as  the  party  was  not  provided 
with  fishing-tackle. 

When  the  time  came  for  their  departure,  they  were  glad  to  bid 
adieu  to  the  place,  and  to  begin  their  ascent  to  the  top  of  the  ridge. 
They  rode  two  leagues  to  the  source  of  the  stream,  which  is  near  the 
summit  of  the  ridge.  At  a  short  distance  from  their  path  was  the  line 
of  perpetual  snow.  They  found  the  ground  hard  frozen  as  the  snow 
was  approached,  and  almost  bare  of  vegetation,  only  a  few  stunted 
spears  of  grass  occurring  here  and  there;  even  this  appeared  to  be 
wanting  in  the  bare  spots  above  the  snow  line.  The  snow  was  but  a 
thin  covering,  its  surface  was  hardened,  and  its  lower  margin  formed 
a  perfectly  unbroken  horizontal  lino,  along  the  face  of  the  mountain. 
This  was  not  apparently  the  case  on  the  other  ridges,  for  the  snow  lay 
there  in  hollows,  and  sometimes  descended,  as  before  remarked,  below 
the  path. 

In  the  alpine  lakes  was  a  species  of  Myriophyllum,  the  same  as  was 
met  with  at  Culnai,  three  thousand  feet  below.  Dr.  Pickering  found 
an  ammonite  here. 

They  descended  rapidly  on  the  western  declivity ;  the  scenery  was 
bcnntifnl,  and  they  had  enough  employment  in  collecting  specimens. 
Two  Inrgo  parties  were  met,  on  the  route,  the  one  of  loaded  mules,  the 
other  of  several  genteel  travellers,  a  iiong  whom  were  females,  ac 
companied  by  several  servants  well  armed.  In  the  afternoon  they 
reached  a  solitary  hut,  at  a  place  called  Chicrine,  situated  at  the  foot 
of  La  Vinda,  and  kept  by  an  old  woman  with  one  eve;  she  proved 
very  much  the  reverse  of  their  hostess  at  Casa  Cancha,  being  very 
cleanly ;  here  tlicy  passed  the  night  comfortably. 

A  Frenchman,  who  was  now  passing  for  a  native,  and  was  on  his 
way  to  Pasco,  with  his  servant,  joined  them  at  Chicrine.  Being 
invited  to  partake  of  supper,  he  accepted,  and  did  ample  justice  to  the 
meal ;  hut  when  he  had  finished,  contrary  to  the  usual  politeness  of 
his  countrymen,  he  told  them  he  had  never  eaten  a  worse  meal  in  his 
life. 
VOL.  I.  35 


'■f€ 


274 


PERU 


After  this  remark,  a  belief  was  entertained  that  his  sacldlo-ba<Ts 
contained  edibles,  and  he  was  accordingly  pliei*  with  questions  until 
he  confessed  he  had  a  loaf  of  bread :  tins  proved  (juitc  acceptable,  and 
a  triumph  over  their  fellow -lodger,  who  promised  them  a  farther  treat 
in  the  morning  upon  some  fine  chocolate. 

On  the  morning  of  the  SSth,  the  Frenchman  departed  early,  and 
forgot  all  about  his  fine  chocolate.  They  regretted  to  hear,  shortly 
after  their  arrival  at  Lima,  that  he  had  been  robbed  and  murdered  on 
his  return. 

Our  party  set  out  early,  and  after  an  hour's  ride  reached  Culnai, 
where  the  villagers  were  busy  gathering  in  their  potatoes.  There 
were  also  several  patches  of  Oxalis  cunata,  Tropa^olum  tuberosum, 
and  a  species  of  Basella.  The  two  former  when  cooked  were  well- 
tasted,  and  all  of  them  are  much  esteemed  by  the  natives.  These 
patches  arc  enclosed  by  low^  stone  dikes ;  the  plants  as  they  advance 
are  earthed  up,  as  we  do  potatoes,  in  the  early  part  of  the  season; 
irrigation  is  necessary,  as  the  soil  is  light  and  open,  and  consists 
chiefly  of  decayed  rock  and  vegetable  mould.  Here  some  very  inte- 
resting seeds  and  roots  of  a  species  of  Alstra'meria  were  gathered. 

Culnai  and  Banos  are  ab.  t  on  the  same  level,  ten  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea,  and  are  the  highest  points  of  cultivation ;  they  are  both 
distant  from  tiie  crest,  by  the  route  of  the  water-course,  about  nine 
miles. 

Dr.  Pickering  having  preceded  the  party  on  foot,  reached  Culnai 
after  nine  o'clock,  when  he  entered  a  store  and  was  received  with  the 
utmost  cordiality;  a  meal  was  at  once  prepared  for  him,  consisting  of 
eggs  and  jjotatoes,  called  chupe  in  tin;  country,  which  was  kindly 
tendered ;  the  landlord  was  very  incjuisitive,  and  examined  his  budget, 
calling  tive  attention  of  the  bystanders  to  it ;  his  charge  was  reason- 
able, and  he  gave  the  doctor  a  hearty  salutation  at  parting,  with  the 
"  Adios  per  Dies." 

At  dark  the  party  was  reunited  at  Obrajillo.  Those  who  arrived 
first  witnessed  the  slaughtering  of  a  bullock  in  the  square,  on  which 
occasion  great  numbers  of  condors  and  bu^'.zards  were  collected  in  the 
air  above.  The  latter  bird  is  seldom  seen  higher  up  tluui  Yaso.  They 
stopped  at  the  posada,  which  they  found  occupied  by  the  company  of 
Chilian  troops  whom  they  had  met  atCasa  Cancha,  and  in  conseciuenco 
tliey  were  obliged  to  lakc  up  with  a  filthy  hut. 

At  Obrajillo  good  crops  of  Indian  corn,  rye,  and  beans  are  raised; 
but  none  of  these  grow  at  a  greater  altitude. 

A  singular  and  rather  amusing  custom  was  witnessed  in  the  morning, 
which  does  not  speak  nmch  for  the  gallantry  ol"  the  male  population. 


PERU. 


276 


'o» 


c.  linTnlf  1    '''■'  '''"  '''""'"^'  ''''^  "  '^P^^^'-  ''^^'^"^  'he  public  square, 
■allmg  all  the  women  out  to  come  and  sweep  it.     They  soon  made 

the.r  appearance    and  were  not  long  in  creating  a  prodigious   dust. 

They  swept  the  dm  up  into  small  heaps;  then'taking  their  coarse 

sha«-^s    rom  the,r  .houlders,  they  spread  thorn  upon  i'^o  ground  and 

P"!rfn;'  ■''^'^  ^"'^  '""^^^^'^  '"'^  '•"""•  •"  ^'«  «-rned  away. 

he  Ch.han  officers  called  upon  our  gentlemen  with  offers  of  service, 
and  were  very  civil  and  obliging. 

At  Obrajiilo  it  was  said  that  tl.e  wealthy  men  of  the  place  kept  very 
iiuiet,  bemg  much  alarmed  at  the  presence  of  the  Chilians 

The  guides  now  demanded  a  settlement,  but  requested  their  money 
might  be  kcpf^f,>r  them  until  ,he  party  reached  Lima,  as  they  certainly 
vvould  be  robbed  if  they  took  it  themselves.  This  incident  proves  how 
little  security  there  is  in  this  country,  for  persons  of  any  class  havin-^ 
any  thing  valuable  about  them.  " 

The  preparations  that  had   been  made  in   the   town  were  for  a 
festival,  and  the  guides  were  disinclined  to  start  fo-  Lima.     A  little 
bribery  however,  and  reminding  them  that  one  of  the  greatest  feasts 
in  the  Catholic    church,  that  of  Corpus  Christi,  was  near  at   hand 
induced  them  to  go  forward. 

On  thoir  way  from  Obrajiilo,  which  they  left  at  an  early  hour,  they 
met  a  bridal  party  on  horseback.     The  bridegroom's  hat  and  person 
were  decorated  with  carnations  and  pinks;  the  bride  and  bridesmaid 
carried  the  same  flowers,  which  they  presented  to  our  gentlemen  in 
passing.     After  a  hard  day's  ride  they  reached  Taso,  and  took  ™ 
then-  quarters  in  the  porch  of  the  posthouse;  the  landlord  and  pos't- 
mastcr  s  absence  was  now  accounted  for,  by  saying  that  he  Iul'.  'rone 
lo  church,  but  would  soon  be  back  ;  he  of  course  did  not  comernor 
was  he  expected  by  our  gentlemen.    They  in  consequence  ftrcd  badly, 
for  they  had  nothing  to  eat.     They  found  here  a  gentleman  wh.  had 
been  robbed  the   day  before,  by  three  persons  in  masks;   they  had 
treated  him  with  great  politeness,  only  proposing  exchanges  to  his 
disadvantage;  he  had  nothing  else  to   complain  of;    they  took  hh 
p.irsc,  watch,  spurs,  and  a  drink  of  his  brandy.     Much  to  their  sur- 
prise, the  guides,  who  had  been  so  scrupulous  about  their  money, 
showed  nr  signs  of  alarm.     A   new  difficulty  arose  with  them:  they 
had  been  informed  that  a  conscription  was  going  on,  and  they  were 
afraid  to  proceed,  lest  f'n.  /  should  lose  their  liberty;  but  the  assurance 
that  they  would  be  proteae-i  while  with  the  party,  satisfied  them. 

The  frequency  of .  ..ur  ^.-  „  highway  robbery,  and  a  constant  resort  to 

the  cuchillo,  has  not  h„-en  exaggerated  in  the  accounts  of  Lower  Peru 

On  the  morning  of  the  27th  they  again  set  out,  having  jn-o,.ared 


276 


PERU. 


themselves  to  encounter  any  attack.  The  guides,  knowing  well  tlie 
dangers  that  were  to  be  apprehended,  showed  much  solicitude  about 
keeping  the  company  together. 

They  reached  Yanga  without  accident,  and  finding  thj  posadu 
occupied  by  a  party  of  soldiers,  and  a  recruiting  olRc(!r,  they  were 
directed  to  a  house  with  a  porch,  but  they  found  it  shut  up.  They 
therolbre,  being  assured  that  the  owner  would  soon  return,  deposited 
the  saddles,  &c.,  in  the  porch.  Soon  after,  a  woman  appeared,  and  on 
being  informed  of  their  situation,  and  that  they  had  fasted  for  two 
days,  she  set  about  providing  for  their  supper,  apparently  from 
Christian  motives,  for  during  the  process  she  crossed  herself  several 
times.  She  proved  to  be  the  owner  of  the  estate,  was  somewhat 
advanced  in  life,  managed  her  own  aflairs,  and  was  seemingly  well 
adapted  to  encounter  tJ  .^  roughness  of  the  li'nes.  The  heiress,  a  little 
girl,  (Angelita  by  name,)  came  galloping  on  a  horse,  driving  the  cattle 
before  her,  v/ith  the  air  of  a  veteran,  having  command  over  both  the 
iuiimal  she  rode,  and  those  she  drove ;  they  were  not  much  struck  with 
her  beauty,  .or  her  well-plastered  face,  and  wide-spreading  and  matted 
hair,  gave  her  <!,<.  appearance  of  an  elf;  but  she  was  a  specimen  of 
Peruvian  nobility.  Their  supper  was  good,  and  they  were  permitted 
to  lie  on  the  clay  floor,  in  the  house. 

They  paid  the  usual  price  for  the  accommodations.  In  the  morning, 
before  their  departure,  they  purchased  fifty  oranges  for  twelve  and  a 
half  cents  (a  real),  it  being  stipulated,  however,  that  they  should  be 
gathered  by  themselves.  These  served  to  refresh  them  while  passing 
over  tiie  barren  track  (described  in  their  ascent)  of  four  leagues.  They 
were  overtaken  by  their  Chilian  friends,  and  the  troop,  when  their 
minds  were  relieved  of  the  apprehensions  of  robberies. 

Caballeros  was  reached  at  an  early  hour,  and  here  they  intended  to 
stup  on  account  of  their  horses;  but  their  ("hilian  friends  i)ersu'ided 
them  to  pursue  their  journey  to  Lima,  promising  to  render  them  assis- 
tance, in  case  they  should  need  it.  At  Caballeros  they  witnessed  a 
light  between  a  turkey  and  a  game-cock ;  strife,  indeed,  appears  to  be 
a  c.ouslant  amusement  with  the  Peruvians,  and  scenes  of  this  kind 
alone  seem  to  interest  the  public.  After  a  long  day's  journey  of  twelve 
leagues,  they  reached  Lima  at  eight  o'clock,  very  much  fatigued,  and 
happy  to  return  to  the  comforts  of  civilized  life. 

The  only  novelty  they  met  with  during  the  day's  ride  was  a  Guacho 
on  horseback,  carrying  a  pine  board  before  him, — a  proof  of  the  scarcity 
of  such  articles  in  Peru,  and  the  value  that  is  set  upon  them. 

This  journey,  although  attended  with  much  fatigue  and  some  dis- 
appointment, from  not  having  accom|)lished  their  object  entirely,  that  oi 


PERU. 


877 


leir 


reachmg  the  wooded  district  of  (he  Eastern  slope  of  the  Andes,  yet 
was  very  productive  of  results  in  the  botanical  department.  '  ^ 

The  great  difference  of  elevation,  and  the  variation  in  climate  con- 
sequent  thereon,  would  lead  one  to  expect  a  greater  variety  in  I 
vegetation  than  was  actually  found.  Forests  were  no  where  me  wHh 
nor  were  any  of  the  palm  tribe  seen;  v.ry  few  of  the  many  tr  >pieal 
plants  were  perceived  even  on  the  coast.  The  smaller  shxnibs  wer 
Hcldom  found,  except  in  .he  lower  region,  where  their  limit  is  circum! 
J^n  ed  to  the  well-watered  district.  Thickets  are  verv  rare,  d  Tn 
the  higher  i-eg,ons  appear  to  bo  altogether  wanting.  The  vegetation 
iUZ'l  V'""  ':  characterized  by  an  air  of  tameness.  indicating 
bu  a  slight  change  of  season,  and  has  been  classed  into  four  distinct 
mca  regions,  w  ich  are  easily  distinguished;  they  will  claim  par- 

Report.       '"'  "  ""'^  '"'""'''"^  '"'"'''  '"  '^'  ^'"'"^^'''^ 

The  geological  region  passed  over  was  also  one  of  much  interest 

.:::' ::::  der-rer  ^'"-^  -' ''- '-'--'  ^^^  ^-"^-^-^^  ^-^-s 

The  geological  structure,  as  far  as  their  observations  went    cor- 
responds  to  that  of  North  Chili,  with  the  exception  of  a  narrow  beltTf 
sedimentary  rocks  along  the  sea-coast,  west  of  the   granit  c     If 
which  IS  wanting  in  tiiat  country.     This   belt  includef  the  islandf/ 
San  Lorenzo,  and  others,  as  well  as  the  coast  itself,  to  the  extent  o 
.om    seven   to   ten   miles   from    the   sea-beach.     These  sedimentary 
ocks  are  argillaceous,  distinctly  stratified,  and  more  or  less  slaty  the 
layers  being  in  many  places  discoloured  by  the  red  oxide  of  iron      ll 
olal'be^'V  ?^  appeared  of  a  black  colour,  as  if  in  the  vicinity  of 
coal-beds,  of  which  the  existence  was  spoken  of,  but  we  did  not  dis- 
cover any  unequivocal  traces  of  this  subst  ..n.e.     Some  conspicuous 
examples  of  faults  were  noticed  by  Mr.  Dana,  niong  the  coa-  of  San 
Lorenzo.     Many  minerals  wore  also  found  by  thi.  gentleman  ;  amon. 
hem  gypsum  was  of  frequent  occurrence,  as  well  .-Ts  some  fossils :  for 
iullor  information,  reference  is  made  to  the  Geological  Report 

The  hills  and  mountnii.s  to  the  eastward,  joining  the  above  sedi- 
menlary  rocks,  are  exclusively  of  granite,  which  extends  in  width  to 
the  distance  of  forty-five  geographical  miles  beyond  Yaso.  In  pTll 
.t  lias  very  much  the  appearance  of  a  stratified  rock;  it  is  much  broken 
and  variable  m  its  character,  so  as  to  render  it  somewhat  deceptive, 
n..  Pickering  observes,  that  this  peculiar  character  or  appearance  is 
owing  to  the  slow  process  of  the  decomposition  of  the  rock  in  this  dry 
climate,  and  which  would  in   other   places,  subject  to  the  ordinary 


278 


PERU. 


fluctuations  of  seasons,  be  covered  with  several  feet  of  earth.  The 
same  reasons  will  account  for  the  duration  of  the  Inca  villages  that 
cover  many  of  the  hills,  and  which  a  copious  shower  would  entirely 
wash  away.  The  granite  on  its  eastern  side  was  coarse-grained,  pre- 
senting more  of  the  ordinary  appearance  of  that  rock. 

Immediately  eastward  of  the  granite  district  commence  the  trap 
rocks,  consisting  for  the  most  part  of  porpiiyry.  Dr.  Pickering  traced 
the  line  of  junction  for  some  miles,  the  hills  on  one  side  being  of 
granite,  on  the  other  porphyry.  The  eastern  limit  of  the  trap  region 
is  supposed  to  be  distant  some  twenty  miles  from  the  western.  The 
porphyry  resembles  the  Swedish,  and  that  in  the  vicinity  of  Boston. 
Many  porphyry  pebbles,  supposed  to  be  of  this  formation,  were  found 
on  the  beach  at  ('allao,  hiving,  it  'o  be  presumed,  been  carried 
there  by  the  action  of  the  water-cc 

Next  coines  the  plateau  of  the  Coiu.ueras,  which  is  formed  of  sedi- 
mentary rocks ;  this  includes  the  silver  mines,  and  the  highest  peaks, 
and  is  apparently  of  the  same  age  as  the  coast.  Much  of  the  rock  is 
argillaceous.  At  Banos  an  argillaceous  L"mestone  was  used  for  burn- 
ing, and  quantities  of  gypsum,  used  for  manure,  was  brought  from  the 
vicinity  of  Casa  Cancha,  some  twenty  miles  to  the  north.  Conglo- 
merates prevailed  over  a  great  portion  of  the  crest  the  party  traversed. 
The  included  pebbles  were  observed  to  be  of  regular  shape,  smooth 
and  polished  as  if  sea-washed.  All  the  party  remarked  the  smooth- 
ness of  the  pebbles  in  the  torrents  of  the  Cordilleras,  which  had  a 
strong  resemblance  to  those  on  the  sea-beach.  From  the  informatio:. 
?lative  to  the  mines  in  the  Cerro  de  Pasco,  it  will  have  been  perceived 
I.  at  blue  limestone,  slate,  and  sandstone,  exist  in  that  vicinity ;  and  at 
the  silver  mines  at  Alpainarca,  a  compact  bluish  rock  was  observed, 
probably  the  limestone ;  it  was  not,  however,  ascertained  whether  it 
was  argillaceous  or  a  pure  limestone.  Dr.  Pickering  remarks,  that  it 
contained  numerous  hard  seams  of  opaque  calcareous  spar,  with  some- 
what the  lustre  of  "  satin  spar."  Sandstone  with  small  pebbles  was 
not  uncommon. 

The  bare  spots  of  the  higher  peaks  did  not  ])resent  the  variety  of 
colour  of  the  Chilian  Andes,  but  had  a  uniform  dark  slaty  hue. 
Many  incrustations  were  seen  forming  on  the  rocks  and  plants :  this 
was  found  to  be  gypsum. 

Previous  to  our  departure,  I  felt  desirous  of  having  an  excursion 
made  to  the  ruins  of  Pachacamac  ;  and  having  heard  that  the  landing 
was  easy  and  good,  on  the  inside  of  the  island,  I  sent  the  tender 
Flying-Fish  thither,  with  Dr.  Pickering  and  Lieutenant  Underwood. 


PERU. 


279 


Pachacamac  Is  one  of  the  iriost  interesting  spots  on  this  part  of  the 
coast,  although  it  is  sai.l  it  will  not  cniparc  with  many  others  in 
various  parts  of  the  country,  ospottiaily  at  Cusco. 

They  left  (^allao  on  the  afternoon  of  the  28th  of  Juno,  and  were  at 
anchor  about  midnight  abreast  of  the  place.     At  daylight  the  surf  was 
found  so  heavy  as  to  render  it  dangerous  to  land  in  the  whale-boat. 
By  the  perseverance  of  the  officers,  a  raft  was  formed  of  the  India- 
rubber  mattrasses  and  oars;  two  balsas  were  also  provided.     Lieu- 
tenant Underwood  made  the  first  attempt,  and  paddled  himself  into  the 
rollers,  the  first  one  of  which  threw  him  and  the  balsas  end  over  end. 
Shortly  after,  the  ratt  was  seen  bottom  up,  the  oar  broken,  and  the 
fragments  sticking  up  in  various  directions ;  but  he  was  missing.     He 
soon,  however,  made  his  appearance  at  some  distance,  and  just  as  he 
reached  the  raft,  a  second  sea  broke  over  him,  and  he  again  dis- 
appeared, apparently  much  exhausted.     When  the  third  roller  broke 
over  him,  he  was  considered  for  a  few  moments  as  lost ;  and  it  was 
no  small  relief  to  see  him  crawling  from  the  water  up  on  the  beach,  a 
short  time  afterwards.     The  raft  was  now  pulled  back  to  the  tender 
by  the  line.     In  consequence  of  the  ill  success  of  this  experiment,  it 
was  determined  to  make  a  trial  in  the  whale-boat,  which  succeeded 
without  accident.      Dr.  Pickering  and  Lieutenant  Underwood   now 
proceeded  to  the  temple.     At  the  base  of  the  hills,  they  found  a  few 
cabins  of  Indians,  who  stated  that  they  had  not  chosen  the  prop., 
place  for  landing. 

The  Temple  of  Pachacamac,  or  Castle,  as  it  is  called  by  the 
Indians,  is  on  the  summit  of  a  hill,  with  three  terraces ;  the  view  of 
it  from  tl'c  north  is  somewhat  like  that  of  the  Pyramid  of  Cholula, 
gi\en  b)'  Humboldt,  except  that  the  flanks  were  perpendicular. 

The  whole  height  of  the  bill  is  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  that  of 
the  mason-work,  eighty;  the  form  is  rectangular,  the  base  being  five 
nundred  by  four  hundred  feet.  At  the  southeastern  extremity,  the 
three  distinct  terraces  are  no*  so  perceptible,  and  the  declivity  is  more 
gentle.  The  walls,  where  great  strength  was  required  to  support  the 
earth,  were  built  of  unhewn  square  blocks  of  rock ;  these  were  cased 
with  sun-dried  brick  (ad^ibes),  which  were  covered  with  a  coating  oi 
clay  or  plaster,  and  stained  or  painted  of  a  reddish  colour. 


TEMPU:  OF  PACHACAMAC. 


280 


PERU. 


A  range  of  square  brick  pilasters  projected  from  the  uppermost 
wall,  facing  the  soa,  evidently  belonging  originally  to  the  interior  of  a 
largo  a])artmeiit.  These  j)ilaHters  gave  it  the  aspect  of  an  Egyptian 
structure.  In  no  other  Peruvian  antiquities  have  pilasters  beep  seen 
by  us.  On  one  of  the  northern  terraces  were  also  remains  of  apart- 
ments; here  the  brick  af)j)eared  more  friable,  owing  to  a  greater 
proportion  of  sand;  where  they  retained  their  shape,  their  dimensions 
were  nine  inches  in  width  by  six  inches  deep,  varying  in  height  from 
nine  inches  to  two  feet;  and  they  were  laid  so  as  to  '>reak  joint, 
though  not  always  in  a  workmanlike  manner. 

The  remains  of  the  town  occupy  some  undulating  ground,  (f  less 
elevation,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  northward.  This  also  forms  a 
rectangle,  one-fifth  by  one-third  of  a  mile  in  size ;  through  the  middle 
runs  lengthwise  a  straight  street,  twenty  feci  in  widtii.  The  walls  of 
some  of  the  ruins  are  thirty  feet  high,  and  cross  each  other  at  right 
angles.  The  buildings  were  apparently  connected  together,  except 
where  the  streets  intervened.  The  larger  areas  were  again  divided 
by  thinner  partitions,  and  one  of  them  was  observed  to  contain  four 
rectangular  pils,  the  plastering  of  which  appea.ed  quite  fresh. 

The  annexed  wood-cut  will  give  a  representation  of  the  ground, 
&c. ;  both  are  from  sketches  made  hy  Lieutenant  Underwood. 


GROUND  I'l.AN  OK  FACIIACAMAC. 


No  traces  of  doors  or  windows  towards  the  streets  could  be  dis- 
covered, nor  indeed  any  where  else.  The  walls  were  exclusively  of 
sun-dried  brick,  and  their  direction,  northeast  and  southwest,  the  same 
as  those  of  the  lomple,  which  fronted  the  sea. 

Some  graves  were  observed  to  the  southward  of  the  temple,  but  the 
principal  burying-ground  was  between  the  temple  and  town.  Some 
of  the  graves  were  rectangular  pits,  lined  with  a  dry  wall  of  stone, 
and  covered  with  layers  of  reeds  and  canes,  on  which  the  earth  was 
filled  in  to  the  depth  of  a  foot  or  more,  so  as  to  be  even  with  the  sur- 
face. The  skulls  brought  from  this  place  were  of  various  characters ; 
the  majority  of  them  presented  the  vertical  elevation,  or  raised  occi- 
Dut,  the  usual  characteristic  of  the  ancient  Peruvians,  while  others 


I 


PERU. 


281 


!b      .i.       r  '^"'^  '^'  '"'"'^  '^^'^^^■^•^«''-     ^''''^ht  of  these  were 

Ob.,,  .ed,  and  are  now  deposited  at  Washington.  The  bodies  were 
'•'"...1  enveloped  in  cloth  of  various  qualities,  and  a  vari  ty  iHt! 
colours  still  existed.  .      lu  a  variety  m  its 

Various  utensils  and  other  articles  were  found,  which  seomed  to 
^'  .ote  the  occupation  of  the   ndividual :  wooden  needles  and  wlvinu 

:";t7  r'^ "  'r  T''  ^'^■'^''  '^  ^''"^^  cordage  of  rs 

n  rups.     Ihey  also  found  various  vegetable   substances:    husks  ol 
Indian  corn,  w-    ears  of  two  varieties,  one  with  the  grain  si«htl 
pointed,  the  other,  the   short    and  black  variety,  which  is  stiVev 
conimonly  cultivated;  cotton  .seeds;  small  buncJes  of  wool    Lurd 

These  furnished  evidence  of  the  style  of  the  articles  manufa  red 
before  the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards,  and  of  the  cultivation  of  o  vZ 
able  products ;  when  to  these  v  ,.ld  the  native  tuberous  roots  am£ 
them  he  potato)  cultivated  in  the  mountains,  and  the  nnim  1  Zd 
domesticated,  viz..  t  e  llama,  dog,  and  Guinea-pig,  and  the  know  d"e 
of  a    east  one  metal,  we  may  judge  what  has  since  boon  acquired  ^ 

The  embarkation  of  the  party  was  attended  with  risk,  but  they  all 
got  on  board  the  Flying-Fish  without  accident.  ^ 

Mr  Knox  also  visited  the  island  of  Pachacamac.  durin-r  the  day 
but  did  not  succeed  in  finding  any  graves.  He  obtained:  however' 
some  interesting  geological  specimens.  nowever, 

In  a  few  hours  they  again  reached  the  anchorage  at  Callao. 


I 


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6 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


CONTENTS. 

SELPAGGRANDI/EMENT  THE  OBJECT  O?  RULERS-END  OP  REVOUrTiONARY  WAR- 
GENERAL  BOLIVAR  DICTATOR-HIS  AUTHORITY  CEASE3-GENERAL  LA  MAR  ELECTED 
-GAMARRAS  TREACHERY -LA    MAR   ARRESTED   AND   BANISHED -GAMARR  A   AND 
LAFUENTE  ELECTED-ATTEMPTS  TO  SEIZE  LAPUENTE-HIS  ESCAPE-EXECUTION  OP 
MAJOR  ROSEL-CONVENTION  CONVOKED-OAMARRA   RESIGNS-ORBEJOSO   ELECTED- 
REVOLUTION   BY   BERMUDEZ    AND    GAMARRA  -  DERMUDEZ  CAPTURED  -  ORBEJOSOS 
AUTHORITY   RESTORED-SALAVERRY  REVOLTP-DECLARES  HIMSELP  SUPREME   DIC 
TATOR-UNITES  WITH  GAMARRA-GAMARRA  DEFEATED-ARRESTED  BY  SALAVERRY 
AND   BANISHED-SALAVERRY   MARCHES   AGAINST  SANTA   CRUZ-BATTLE  OP  SOCA- 
BAYA-SALAVERRY   DEFEATED  -  TAKEN  PRISONER-  TRIED  AND  SHOT-ORBEJOSO 
REINSTATED -TREATY    WITH   CHILI    NULLIFIED  -  SANTA  CRUZ'S  INTRIGUES -DIS- 
MEMBERMENT  OP  PERU-ASSEMDLY  OP  SICUANl-SANTA   CRUZ   NAMFD   SUPRKME 
PROTECTOR-CONVENTION  OP  HUARA-GENERAL  FREYRE  FITS  OUT  AN  EXPEDITION 
-CHILIAN    fJNSUL- GENERAL    EVADES    THE    EMBARGO  -  SEIZURE    OP    PERUVIAN 
VESSELS-NEGOTIATION-CESSATION   OP   HOSTILITIES-INVASION  OP  ALTA    PEUU- 
DISASTROUS  CAMPAIGN-TREATY  OP  PEACE-RETURN  OP  CHILIAN  ARMY-CHILIAN 
GOVERNMENT  REFUSES  TO  RATIFY  THE  TREATY-LEGION  Or  HONOUR-DISCONTENT 
AT  SANTA  CRUZ'S  POLICY -WAR   AGAIN  COMMENCEP-EXPEDITION  FROM   CHILI - 
INVASION  OP  PERU-BATTLE  OP  LIMA-LIMA  TAKEN-ORBEJOSO  ESCAPES-GAMARRA 
NAMED  PRESIDENT-SANTA  CRUZ  MARCHES  UPON  LIMA-CHILIANS   EMBARK-LAND 
AT  HUARA-PURSUED  BY  SANTA  CRUZ-BA7  TLE  OP  YUNGAI-SANTA  CRUZ  TOTALLY 
DEPEATED-ESCAPES  TO  LIMA-THENCE  TO  AREftUIPA-SEEKS  REFUGE  ON  BOARD 
A   BRITISH   SHIP  OP  WAR-BULNE8   SAILS  AGAIN   FOR  CALLAO- DISEMBARKS    HIS 
TROOPS-TAKES  POSSESSION  OP  LIMA-CONGRESS  CONVOKEP-GAMARRA  ELECTED 
PRESIDENT-RESULTS  OP  BATTLE   OF  YUNGAI-BULNES  WITH   HIS   ARMY  RETURNS 
TO   CHILI-GAMARRA  GOES  TO  AID  BOLIVIA-HIS  FORCES  ROUTED,   AND  HIMSELF 
KILLED-CHARACTER   OP   BOLIVAR-LA   MAR-GAMARRA-LAPUENTE-ORBEJOSO- 
BALAVERRY- SANTA  CRUZ-HIS  ACTS -COMMERCE -PERU  AND  CHILI  -  IMPORTS- 
EXPORTS-TRADE  WITH  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


(883) 


CHAPTER   XIV. 

POLITICAL   HISTORY   OP   PERU. 


1839. 

The  history  of  Peru,  during  the  last  twenty  years,  is  involved  in 
even  more  obscurity  than  that  of  Chili.  This  arises  from  the  frequent 
change  ot  rulers,  and  the  consequent  alterations  in  policy  and  govern- 
ment.  The  history  may  be  sai :'  to  be  merged  in  biographical  memoirs 
of  Its  several  rulers,  who  hava,  without  an  exception,  acted  for  self- 
aggrandizement,  without  ever  looking  to  the  benefit  of  their  country 
Its  peace,  or  happiness.  They  have,  in  their  public  decrees  and  acts! 
been  lavish  and  prodigal  of  the  words  honour,  liberty,  justice,  &c., 
m  order  to  extol  themselves,  and  decry  their  opponents.  Yet,  without 
exception,  the  moment  they  have  attained  power,  they  have  pursued 
the  very  course  they  before  reprobated,  and  the  country  has  continued 
to  surier. 

The  victory  of  Ayacucho,  gained  by  General  Sucre  in  December, 
1824,  put  an  end  to  the  war  of  the  revolution,  and  placed  the  whole 
country  ,n  the  possession  of  the  patriots,  with  the  exception  of  Callao 
On  the  surrender  of  that  fortress,  January  7th,  1826,  Spanish  authority 
ceased  to  exist  in  South  America.     General  Bolivar  was  at  this  time 
President  of  Colombia,  and  Dictator  of  Peru,  invested  as  the  latter 
with  constitutional  powers,  but  exercising  unlimited  authority.  Throu-rl, 
his  means  and  the  troops  of  Colombia,  the  liberation  of  Peru  had  been 
eflected;  and  after  that  event,  many  of  these  troops  were  quartered  in 
Lima,  much  to  the  annoyance  of  the  Peruvians,  who  were  anxious  to 
get  rid  of  the  military,  and  the  expense  of  maintaining  them.     Their 
presence,  and  tlie  cost  of  supporting  them,  became  the  moie  odious, 
because  it  was  believed  they  were  retained  to  support  the  arbitrary 
power  of  the  Dictator.     In  the  beginning  of  the  year  1827,  the  Peru- 
vians, through  their  intrigues,  effected  a  revolt  among  the  Colombian 

(98S) 


WG 


l'(»l,  ITK   Al,    HISTORY    OF    PERU. 


troops,  who  made  |iiis(.nois  (.ftluiir  oiricors,  put  an  end  to  the  anthoritv 
of  the  Pictalor  Holivar,  and  freed  Peru  from  the  presence,  as  well  as 
the  expense,  of  foreign  troops. 

Imiiiedialely  after  this  event.  General  La  Mar  was  elected  and 
proclaimed  President  of  Peru.  lie  was  a  native  of  Guayaquil,  reputed 
to  be  a  mild  and  just  man,  had  been  brought  up  in  the  Spanish  armv, 
and  was  attached  to  General  San  Martin;  but  he  appears  to  have  been 
ill  adapted  to  rule  over  such  a  people  as  the  Peruvians.  At  first  his 
election  was  popular,  and  his  name  took  the  place  of  that  of  Bolivar 
over  all  the  gates,  &c.,  in  the  City  of  Kings. 

At  this  change  every  demonstration  of  joy  was  witnessed.  The 
Colombian  troops  were  sent  to  the  neighbourhood  of  Guayaquil,  when 
they  attempted  a  revolution  against  the  Colombian  authorities  in 
Guaymas  and  Quito,  (about  forming  the  republic  of  Equador,)  in  which 
they  were  partially  successful,  but  were  soon  put  down  by  General 
Flores.  These  acts  led  to  hostilities  between  Colombia  and  Peru,  and 
in  the  beginning  of  1828,  La  Mar  marched  to  the  frontiers  of  Colombia, 
without  any  declaration  of  war,  with  a  part  of  the  Peruvian  forces, 
leaving  General  Gamarra,  a  native  of  Cusco,  who  had  been  the  cause 
of  so  much  revolution  and  bloodshed  in  Peru,  to  tbllow  with  a  second 
division  of  Peruvian  troops.  At  this  time  General  Santa  Cruz  (who 
had  been  for  a  short  time  President  of  Peru,)  was  President  of  Bolivia, 
and  he,  together  with  Gamarra  and  Lafuente,  conspired  to  overthrow 
La  ]\Lir,  afler  which  Santa  Cruz  was  to  be  proclaimed  President  of 
Pern,  Gamarra  Vice-President,  and  Lafuente  Minister  of  War. 

With  this  plan  in  view,  Gamarra  joined  La  Mar  on  the  frontiers  of 
Colombia.  The  battle  of  Portete  took  place  soon  afterwards,  when, 
in  consciiiience  of  the  treachery  or  cowardice  of  Gamarra,  the  Peru- 
vians were  beaten,  and  capitulated  on  the  field  of  battle  to  General 
Sucre,  who  was  opposed  to  them  with  a  much  inferior  force  of 
Colombians.  A  treaty  was  signed,  bu  ,vas  soon  violated  by  the 
Peruvians,  and  hostilities  again  commencod.  Another  division  of  the 
Peruvian  army,  one  thousand  five  hundred  strong,  which  had  been 
acting  in  Bolivia,  embarked  from  Arica,  under  Lafuente,  to  join  La 
Mar,  in  the  north.  They  arrived  at  Callao,  and  were  disembarked 
against  La  Mar's  orders,  and  shortly  after  Lafuente  overthrew  the 
government  at  Lima,  whilst  Gamarra  arrested  La  Mar  in  the  north, 
and  banishet!  him  to  Costa  Rica,  in  Central  America,  where  he  shortly 
afterwards  died. 

Lafuente  ejected  all  the  officials,  and  assumed  the  government  in  the 
name  of  Gamarra. 

Gamarra  and  Lafuen'e,  having  thus  secured  the  army  and  govern- 


■•O1.ITI0AL    lUSTORV   OPPERU.  „ 

In  182{),  Gamarra  was  elected  Prosidonf  fnr  f^.,.  .  . 

Vice.Pro.ido„,.    During  ,hc  JZL:ZVt:ZZrf°°''' 

time  for  her  husband  to  cscnnn    Tl,L    n-  ^'^*^'''  ^°  g'^« 

to  the  apartment,  had  staU      d  gl    dfl^Ld  tr ""''  '^^7  ^^'"^ 
'o  shoot  any  one  whom  they  saw  e  c  pi^    On      '''^"■"'  ""''^^  '''^''' 
of  the  chrunbcr,  he  found  it  bohr^  T7   f     ?"  "*'""'"«  ^'  ^'"^  d^^"' 
was  done  by  Seion   I  auent     V^    ,'    T^  "  *"  ^'^  "P'^"^'^-     '^'»« 
escape  through      e;in^owThf;'    "  '"''^"'  ''''   ""^'^'^'^  '- 
but  mistaking  the  courseTf  Zu       T'  ''^^  '"  P"^^*^'^'  ^•^"«-«^^ 
where  he  wa^     en  by  hfs  oLf  ^  M'^      T"  '^'  ^'''^'"^  '^-'  '^'  houses, 
and  shot  hhn  dead     Latenreth        "'  J^'  T^  ^°  *^^"-  «^^-«'  ^-d 
his  wife,  esca  ed  io  0^0;:  Tf'    J  ^  '  '^"f  "^"^^^"^"^  ^' 
United  States  sln-D  St  T  nn!«  7    ^  ?  ''^  '''>''"'"  °"  ^oard  the 

tochih^a„d  frot'ch  i  to  B  li  rwC;"  f '"''''-  '^'^-^  ^--^ 

Cru.,  and  ondeavouro    to  oS\Td  f  1  I       '"' "T'^'^^  ^'^  ^^"^^ 

Another  conspiracy  i    s.id  t"  hlh       T      ^'^''^'^^  ^^'^^^r-^'- 

1832,  in  which  mS  Ro!^  '"  discovered  by  Ga.narra  in 

was  then  co^lS'ofXrnt'aS  M  '^'"f  ''^  '^^^^^^  «^ 
the  seizure  of  the  Presid  n  Ws"  n  Sot '  ""  ""''  ''  '"^^'^'^ 
boon  given  to  this  suspicioTbr.  e  Lt  Z  Rotl  V^lfTr'  ^^  '^^^^ 
nnusual  hour,  and  anparentlv  kont  tfl  ™'.'^""«'J  ^'^  men  at  an 
On  the  18fh  ;f  JanuSr^whl  n?  h       "  '"  ''''^'"'^^  ^"•-  =^^^'^^  ^uty. 

-•^od,  disarmed,;";:^^o;;r  p:t,tjrir;„^^'^^^^^^^^  '^^  ''- 

It  is  believed  that  this  is  woll  !!  following  morning. 

existed  „„„  i„  Gi:v::;ri° :;: r-irr^^''-^'^' 

manner,  lunvover,  in  vvhici,   ho   iroalcd  all  whl     '  ""'"'"'"'•>' 

approaching  a   rcbolliou.   »piri,,  kep      ,0    ,i  nftt     7       '"/■  """« 
Among  olher  person,  hi.  ^.,^.Z  ^ ^f^iZ^:;^ 


288 


POM  TIC  A  r.    II  I  8  TORY    OV    VKMV. 


Sormld  and  nc.liiit^  Vif(!-l'rcsi(liMil,  Mimu(!l  'rt'lliiiisi,  who  was  soizod, 
(^arriiMl  to  ( 'iilhn),  ronuul  on  luiiinl  ii  sum'  vtissol  of  wiir,  luxl  tniiiN- 
portcMl  III  I'anaina. 

Ill  July,  IN.'IM,  just  at  \\w  ('loso  of  (lainarra's  tcMMii  of  oHict;,  tlie  con- 
vontion  which  had  hvvn  |)n)vidi!d  for  l)y  the  ('onslitiilion  of  IHiJH,  was 
convoked  to  iruict  at  l.hna,  ihuro  to  anuiiid  llio  constitution.  It  was 
still  in  s(;sHion  wlion  his  tenu  cvpircd,  on  the  120th  Doc.otnbor,  IS{]'.]. 
On  the  IDth  ho  sent  in  his  resignation  to  tin;  National  Convontion,  and 
issiuid  an  address  to  the  lujojilo,  annoniKring  that  the  wisluid-for  day 
had  arriviMl  wIkmi  ho  could  rotiro  t<»  private  life.  Tliis  was  well  known 
to  bo  insiiicoro,  for  while  ho  was  making  these  protestations,  ho  was 
doing  every  thing  in  his  power  to  sectu'o  his  re-election.  Catnarrahad 
heconie  extren\ely  mpopular,  iuid  throughout  the  country  was  aecuscjd 
of  injustice  and  tyrainiy.  News  of  revolts  were  reaching  the  capital 
(Lima)  every  day,  both  from  the  north  and  south :  only  a  short  time 
before  his  term  cxj)ired,  he  had  gone  south,  to  quell  omi  at  Ayacudio. 

At  the  time  of  the  expiration  of  his  term  of  ollice,  the  ekv-toral 
college  for  the  choice  of  a  president  had  not  wwA,  in  conseiiueni'i;  of 
some  informality  in  the  election  of  its  meitd)ers;  and  as  no  constitu- 
tional (ilectioii  could  be  obtained,  the  ronvention,  with  the  sanction  (»f 
Camarra,  balloted  for  a  provisional  president,  until  the  election  sliould 
take  place,  and  the  choice  fell  upon  Cencral  Don  liUiz  Orbejoso,  in 
opposition  to  Oermudez,  who  was  a  creature  of  Gamarra's,  Gainarra 
himself,  by  the  constitution,  not  being  re-oligible. 

Soon  aft(!r  Orbejoso  was  clecttMl,  Berumdez,  instigated  and  aidc<l  by 
(wuuarra,  on  a  plea  of  the  unconstitutionality  of  tin;  election,  ellectcd  a 
revolution  in  Tjima.  This  took  place  on  the  18th  of  .January,  18.'M, 
when  tiie  (Convention  was  dispersed  at  the  ])oint  of  thi!  bayoiu!t ;  many 
lives  were  lost,  and  Orbejoso  lied  to  the  castle  of  Callao.  The  i)enple 
of  T.inui  on  this  occasion  showed  some  si)irit,  and  took  part  in  the 
atlVay,  whicli  was  quite  unlookod  for,  as  they  had  generally  been  in  the 
habit  of  retiring  to  their  houses,  and  allowing  the  contending  jiarties  to 
settle  the  strife.  In  a  few  days  they  rose  upon  the  soldiers  of  Rerum- 
dez,  whom  they  compelled  to  evacuate  the  city  and  retire  beyond  the 
mountains,  where  they  soon  after  capitulated,  and  Orbcjoso's  authority 
was  re-established.  Gamarra  (led  to  Bolivia,  and  was  protected  by 
Santa  Cruz. 

Dining  this  insurrection,  Lafucnte  again  returned  to  Peru,  and, 
being  detected  or  suspected  of  intriguing  to  get  himself  named  Presi- 
dent, was  banished  by  Orbejoso.     He  retired  to  Chili  to  await  events. 

In  February,  183.'),  during  Orbejoso's  absence  to  the  south.  General 
Salaverry,  who  was  in  command  of  the  Castle  of  Callao,  revolted. 


POMTIOAI,    niSTOIJY    OF    !•  I!  R  u. 


Soiml  l||IOII  flu.    ir,,v( 

.fiiiK',  Ik;  issued  n   d 


9S9 


'"""•ii'.  niid  d(!,;|iir(,'d  liiriisc-ir  Si 


iipromo  riiiof.     In 


'•'•'■";•    "Pl";i-'ti..tr   a   n,„„.-il   of  HlMfr,  (..msiHtinLr  of 
S.  Ml   » l.„.i.  ■„,  ^,„  ,,,,.,i,,,.,„^  ,,,^,,   ,^^.^,^^^^  ^^^  ^^^^^ 


Uvci.ly-lniir  iMcinlHTs.  .if  \vl,i,.|,  | 

'•ise  ll,„   n.osi  d.;s|,nii„  „u(|.n,ily.     (M.-joso'lmd 

w'lil  to  (loiimnd  (lid  of  Saiihi  ( 

roiiiicil  of  <,'(.v(M-mu(!nt  liad.  d 


ill  tl 


niz  lo  sii|i|)n.sH  tlio  iiisiiinu;! 


10   rnonri   limo, 


() 


iMvcslcd 
liiiii  to  ('id 


'•'••'joso  Willi  oxtniordinary  pow 


I  |---n  .m;    iiiNiiirooiion.       Tlio 

"in-  llio  provioi.H  rohollion  of  Hermudoz. 


IIISI 


<'||"M  Santa  Criiz,  IVosidont  of  \U 


'•I'S  osporially  autlmriziiig 


K-rcvlion  i„  Peru;  j,,,,,  H,,nn„d,„  ,,ad  capimlate.l  I 


ivm,  for  aid  to  (|uo||  tl 


10 


WHS  rail,.,!  „,„„,  |„  „,„.     yvflor  llio  rolidl 


toforo  Santa  Cruz 

ao.sof.nioi,yan;:;,;;;...s!::,"''  '"'^""  •"""•  «"'-e-y-'"'i„ucd  k. 

<J.-.n,arra.  always  o,,  the  wntch.  now  mndo  his  npnoaramv    in  fh. 
I'"l"^^  of  again  raising  himsolf  u,  power.     Ho  hnd  /Kl  Z      V  • 

ino  cn„,,r  „l  .S,,l,,vony  wn«  .sli„rt,  l,„i  „„»xair,|,l,.,l  i„  Peru  for  , 'I, 
«"l.v,.y    „„,,   energy.      Hi,   n„o   cxci.o,!   „..    ,v,  L„l,y     f."  he,, , 
f'oniniiflod    somo    of  ilm    «,«=»    1     i.  y'i"iu\y,  lor  fic    fiad 

Orhojoso,  on  being  reinstated  by  the  ai,i  of  Santa  Cr„7  .nd  th,> 
.ovolt  suppressed,  railed  an  assembly  of  the  don.,tie«  .tT'  f  c 

Sionani.  and  se,  abo.n  punishing  all  ^-ho  h.'d  t^:;:^^,^Z  t 
any  manner  during  the  rebellion  of  Salave,  ry. 

The   nnllineafion  of  the   treaty  with   Chili  i<,  cnM  tr.   u        u 

bo  »on,ow„a,  „„der  ,„e  influence  „f  S„„,„  Crn..     HcZdZeTf  .he 

VOL.   I.  2  37 


300 


POLITICAL    HISTORY   OF    PERU. 


argument,  that  it  conlniiicd  .stijmlalioiis  injurious  to,  and  contrary  to  the 
truo  policy  of  Peru,  \vhi(^li  was  to  oniloavour  to  proiiioto  a  IVoc  intor- 
courso  witli  all  nations,  ii  policy  wliidi  oulwciyliud  all  tlio  advantages 
that  could  bo  derived  from  the  treaty  with  Chili. 

In  1830,  General  Ilerrcra  was  received  as  ambassador  from  Bolivia 
by  Orbejoso,  and  with  General  Moran,  who  commanded  the  troops, 
seems  to  have  exerted  a  great  inlluence  over  Orbejoso.  lie  entered 
into  an  oflensivo  and  defensive  alliance  with  Bolivia,  which  gave  all 
the  ascendency  to  Bolivia,  or  rather  to  Santa  Cruz,  engaging  that  the 
Bolivian  army  shouhl  remain  in  Peru  until  peace  should  be  establisliL'd 
at  the  north.  From  tliis  it  was  evident  that  Peru  was  ruled  by  stran- 
gers, and  her  interests  were  forgotten.  The  people,  therefore,  soon 
became  dissatisfied  with  the  administration  of  Orbejoso,  and  when  he 
ordered  a  new  election  of  deputies,  they  in  many  of  the  towns  refused 
to  vote,  believing  that  his  real  object  was  to  secure  himself  a  re-elec- 
tion by  the  Assembly. 

He  dismembered  the  eight  provinces  of  Peru,  by  declaring  that  foui 
of  them  should  bo  known  liereafter  under  the  name  of  South  Peru, 
composed  of  the  departments  of  Aretjuipa,  Ayacucho,  Cusco,  and 
Puno.  Nothing  can  bo  more  absurd  than  the  way  in  which  he  seems 
to  have  conducted  the  government,  and  the  bombastic  and  foolish  tone 
of  his  decrees,  wherein  he  is  styled,  or  styles  himself,  "  Citizen,  Don 
Louis  Orbejoso,  Great  Hero  and  meritorious  General  of  Divisions,  and 
Grand  Marshal  of  the  State  of  South  Peru." 

The  Assembly  of  Sicuani  met  on  the  17th  March,  when  it  conferred 
upon  Santa  Cruz  the  title  of  Supreme  Protector  of  South  Peru,  con- 
sisting of  the  four  above  mentioned  provinces  of  Arequipa,  Cusco, 
Ayacucho,  and  Puno.  At  the  same  time,  every  power  was  given  iiiin 
over  the  state,  as  well  as  the  right  to  convene  a  legislature  as  soon  as 
he  should  think  proper.  This  was  virtually  extending  his  power  over 
the  half  of  Peru  next  bordering  on  Bolivia,  and  was  the  first  step 
towards  making  him  head  of  both  states.  The  Assembly  likewise 
bestowed  great  encomiums  on  the  Bolivian  army,  awarding  to  them 
medals  and  thanks.  On  Santa  Cruz  it  conferred  the  title  of  Invincible 
Pacificator  of  Peru ;  voted  that  an  equestrian  statue  of  him  should  be 
erected  on  the  field  of  Socabaya,  and  that  his  portrait  should  be  hung 
up  in  their  hall,  and  in  all  the  tribunals  and  public  olHccs  of  the  repub- 
lic. The  next  act  was  to  appoint  a  committee  to  wait  upon  Santa 
Cruz,  to  present  him  with  the  declaration  of  independence,  and  \v 
invest  him  with  the  Su{)reme  Protectorate,  awarding  to  him  likewise 
a  salary  of  thirty  thousand  dollars  a  year  for  the  expenses  of  his 
exalted  situation. 


i 


!    i 


POLITICAL    HISTORY    OF   PERU.  99, 

The  Asscnhly  of  Nic.mni  wns  b„t    /?,«r  davs  in  session-    and  its 

ruz,  instead  of  looking  into  the  nflhirs  of  the  state.     This  must  strikr. 

t  surprise    l.at  tic  Soulh  Americans  should  rather  be  rctrogradinL' 

'han  advancing,  when  we  look  upon  acts  like  these.  ""^''S'^«^'"« 

On  the  3d  August.  1830,  the  Convention  of  Iluara  (which  had  been 

previously  summoned)  met.     After  being  organized,  rcied  mes 

ngesfrom  the  provisional  President,  and  the  Supr;me  ?'!«  0    bv 

h.s  ,  enipotentiary,  who  submitted  three  projects  for  a.n  organciaw 

Id  :  'T'V'  """""^  ""'''  '^"'^  ««"^'=^  "-'-•  -«  head      t  1 

nd  slutfp  T  'u  '"^^  '■"'^''•=^''^'«  ^^--^^^  "f  Bolivia,  North 

Suirf    P    r"'  ''''!  '"  '^'^'°  ""^  f^^^^''''^"^'  ^"'J  '-^'l  to  be  under  the 

Conve^Uon  had  to  overcome  was,  whether  a  successor  to  the  Pro 
tec  or.  m  case  of  his  death  or  infirmity,  should  be  named,  and  wheth: 
O  bejoso  should  be  the  party.     During  ,he  pendency  of  this  question 
O  b^oso  sen   word  to  the  Assembly,  through  the  minister,  t     t      ev' 
might  desist  from  the  considering  him  as  a  candidate  to  succeed    I.  • 
Protector.   This  great  difficulty  having  been  thus  removed,  the  o  t  ic 
aw  was  passed    organizing  the  four  rema^.ing  provinces  under  t 
.tic  of  North  Peru.     At  the  same  time,  the  act  that  had  been  passed 
by  the  Convention  at  Sicuani,  establishing  the  state  of  South  P  ru'wa 
confirmed.     At  this  session.  Orbejoso  was  made  a  grand  marsh  a  .The 
pay  o    that  rank  was  voted  to  him.  and  also  a  clas^p  for  a  swoVd  belt 
set  with  diamonds,  with  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  in  money     A 
monument  to  Santa  Cruz  in  one  of  the  Ala.nedas  in  Lima  was  i^viided 
f  ;  "'^^;  \S"'d  sword  nlaid  with  diamonds,  and  one  hundred  housan 
ollars  to  his  wife  as  pin-money.    This  convention  was  only  in  ses'on 

f  I  oTt  T7.  T"  '^  ""^-"'"^'  ''''^'  '''  P-P'«  «f  Lima  though 
of  these  acts,  by  the  fact  that  on  the  13th  August.  Crbejoso  returned  to 
Lima,  wi  bout  receiving  any  attentions  whatever.  Orbejoso  haS  pre^ 
vious  to  this  time  adopted  the  novel  plan  of  chartering  (aTdamien  0^ 
.he  government  vc^els  of  war,  considering  they  had  n"o  ongeT^ny  ^ 
for  them ;  General  Freyre.  the  former  director  of  Chili,  who  it  has  been 
mentioned  was  banished  from  that  country,  and  was  residing  i„L  I 

All  the  Chilians  who  had  been  banished,  united  with  him,  and  it  is 
believed  that  Orbejoso  favoured  and  aided  the  project  ly  mi;  as 


SOS 


POLITICAL    HISTORY   OF    1'  K  R  U. 


well  ai  advice.     A  Himiiur  l)eliur  was  entertained  in  reliitiun  to  Santn 
Cruz,  although  he  thought  proper  to  deny  the  charge. 

Peru  and  Bohvia  tiius  became  one  government,  under  the  name  of 
the  I'cru-Bolivian  Confederation,  and  Santa  Cruz  was  declared  Supreme 
Protector  for  life,  with  almost  unlimited  authority.  This  was  an  un- 
popular measure  in  Peru,  the  people  alleging  that  her  independence  had 
been  bartered  for  foreign  aid.  There  was  little  to  unite  her  to  Bolivia, 
no  common  intcrcjt,  and  but  limited  commercial  intercourse  to  cement 
a  union.  Bolivia,  on  the  other  hand,  saw  herself  involved  in  quarrels 
in  which  she  had  no  interest ;  moreover.  Chili  and  Ecjuador  became 
suspicious,  and  jealous  of  the  ambitious  projects  of  the  Protector  of  the 
new  Confederation ;  while  the  misunderstanding  respecting  the  treaty, 
and  the  restrictions  that  were  put  on  her  commerce,  tended  to  widen 
the  breach  with  Chili. 

The  Protector,  on  his  arrival  in  Lima,  was  received  with  great 
rejoicings,  &c.  One  of  his  first  acts  was  to  impose  a  discriminating 
and  additional  duty  on  all  goods  introduced  into  the  ports  of  the  Con- 
federation, when  imported  in  vessels  having  touched  at  a  Chilian  port, 
wit!  the  ostensible  object  of  encouraging  a  direct  trade  from  Europe 
and  the  TJnited  States,  to  Peru  and  Bolivia.  The  Chilians  took  gieat 
offence  at  this  act.  Peru  in  her  struggle  for  indei)endcncc  had  received 
much  assistance,  first  from  Chili,  and  then  from  Colombia,  and  was  in 
debt  to  both  for  the  expense  of  the  war.  This  very  aid  produced  its 
usual  consequences,  by  creating  those  feelings  of  hostility  which  the 
ungrateful  indulge  in  towards  their  benefactors. 

It  soon  became  apparent  that  the  vessels  of  war  were  chartered  by 
General  Freyre,  who  embarked  in  them  with  a  number  of  the  dis- 
contented Chilians  who  were  in  exile,  and  about  two  hundred  soldiers. 
This  was  done  secretly,  but  the  Chilian  consul-general  contriving  to 
get  the  information,  as  has  been  related,  despatched  a  vessel  to  notify 
his  government,  before  an  embargo  was  laid.  We  have  heretofore 
seen,  in  the  chapter  which  treats  of  the  aflairs  of  Chili,  how  the 
whole  affair  was  frustrated,  and  how  Freyre  and  the  others  were 
taken  prisoners. 

The  party  in  power  in  Chili  had  always  been  opposed  to  Santa 
Cruz  personally,  and  believed  that  he  had  planned  and  aided  the 
attempt  to  revolutionize  Chili.  Under  pretence  therefore  of  danger 
from  the  preponderating  influence  of  the  Peru-Bolivian  Confederation, 
under  so  ambitious  and  intriguing  a  head,  they  resolved  on  war.  For 
this  purpose  they  deemed  it  necessary  to  secure  the  coinmand  of  the 
sea,  and   they  sent  two   vessels  of  war  to  Callao,  ostensibly  on  a 


fOLITlCAt,   HIHTOHY   OF  PERO.  303 

ofi?;::;::;.!;:  "'"•  ^"•"  -"'"'  "•  -  - «-  pemvian  vc„.i, 

now  obtained  rr.mmand  of  .ho  PM.,«f  ,  /  ^  '     ^  "'''  ""^'"8 

higlily  honourable  ,o  bolh  „ali,.m     Dv7,h.  ,,!  ,?  ^  ""' 

ro-ombark,  „„  c„„di,i„„  of  ro  u™  nrffo    ho  /  ''  "°'°  °"°"'"'  "" 

ward,  giving  „„  ,hc  vlm,XZu,lZr'AlT'' '""  """!; 
to  Chili-  biif  fhr.  n,;  •  '     ^"®  troops  returned 

wh.Vh  L\  "  «''^«'-"'"«"t  refused  to  ratify  the  treaty - 

which  IS  known  as  (hat  of  Paucarpata.  treaty,— 

Santa  Cruz  now   instituted   the  Lerrjon    nf  u.  > 
reward   all   those  who  had  served  wir."  r*  '"   ''''^''   *° 

annexed  a  certain  compensation    'hi  I  "  '".  ^''  ^^'"P'^'>«.  and 

upon  the  state  of  60^  tirC^^ts'  ^"^"'""'  "  ^"  *^""-'  ^^"^^ 

Peruvians,  „l,„  ,vcro   „n„o,Tr  '  .      T        '  '"voigling  (he 

placing  ,ho,„  „n,tor "nrSnee  ZJ  ""  """"'"■  """  *™ 
...isfaetion.  and  made  h  ^  o  rp„pnh  hrZ"''"  f™  «™'  ■"'- 
desiron,  of  throwing  off  ,be  Z  v   h  B„l   "f  wlilh  T"" 

now  eviden,  San.a  ,>„.,  ,,bi,i„„  ,„j  ^ongh,  ab:,:'  ^'"''  "  "" 

ofrarBSaE„e„ar:r;:r/;::tr"^^^^^^^ 

from  .ime  ,o  ,in,e  (heir  views,  and  in  orlS    ?„  a  iTe  11:""'°"! 
ma.,er,.    This,  in  .he  opinion  of  ,he  Peruvian  had  he  iTf     °' 
.o  foreigner,  undue  par,ieip.,i„„  in  ,he  go  e«      P™!    °  f  "'T 

;.^^r;nrp;i^iA-:::trt^^^ 

«r.he  Peruvia.;  He  „,.  iZS  ^i:^::i:-;::;iz^ 


294 


POLITICAL    HISTORY    O  F  P  E  R  U. 


and  Peru  to  the  Spanish  (lag.    Ilowover  wise  tlio  latter  measure  mi<;iit 
have  been  in  a  conunorciul  point  of  viow,  it  was  ill-timed,  for  the  pro 
judicos  against  the  old  Spaniards  are  yet  extremely  strong  in  South 
America,  and  ebpecially  in  Peru. 

Santa  (^u/.'s  policy  soonis  to  have  been  to  attach  foreigners  to  his 
person  and  govornmont,  and  they  for  the  most  part  spoke  favourably 
of  him ;  but  as  ho  gained  ground  witli  thom  he  lost  it  with  his  coun- 
trymen, and  those  who  were  and  ought  to  have  been  his  supporters 
were  disapjiointcd  and  mortified  to  see  him  pursue  such  a  course. 
The  Peruvians  are  conceited,  proud,  and  destitute  of  that  education 
and  kuowlodge  which  would  enable  them  to  understand  the  n.eccssity 
of  asking  foreigners  for  advice;  respecting  their  connnercial  regula- 
tions. 

Santa  Cruz,  believing  himself  lirmly  established  in  Peru:  ivas  desirous 
of  seeking  popularity  abroad  ;  and  for  this  j^urpose  wished  to  have  it 
understood  that  ho  was  disjiosed  to  encoiu'age  trade  with  foreign 
nations. 

Chili  again  despatched  to  Peru  the  same  troops,  augmented  by 
reinforcements,  under  the  command  of  General  Bulnes.  With  them, 
as  in  the  former  expedition,  came  the  proscribed  Peruvians,  among 
whom  was  (>eneral  Gamarra. 

Previous  to  the  arrival  o(  tiic  Chilian  expedition,  Orbejoso,  who  lia-i 
been  appointed,  by  Santa  Cni/,  President  of  North  Peru,  revolted 
against  his  authority,  and  declared  the  Confedenition  dissolved,  la 
this  he  was  joined  by  General  j\iet(>.  Orbejoso,  however,  opposed  tin; 
Chilians,  and  declined  their  assistance,  tolling  tiien\  that  if  they  were 
seeking  Santa  Cru/,  they  might  sc-ju  for  him  elsewhere.  JJuliies 
replied  that  he  nmst  remain  ;  disembarked  his  troops,  and  encamped 
near  Lima.  The  nuxt  morning,  as  one  of  his  regiments  was  removing 
to  a  more  favourable  position  for  water,  Orbejoso  thought  that  he  in- 
tended an  attack,  and,  determining  to  anticipate  it,  marched  against  him, 
ordering  General  Nieto  to  follow.  The  latter,  wistiing  to  play  chief, 
kept  back.  Bulnes,  finding  himself  unexpectedly  attacked,  ordered  an 
advance  on  the  Peruvians,  drove  them  before  him,  and  after  llii' 
battle*  entered  Lin>a  with  his  troops,  where  he  maintained  liimscli. 
Orbejoso,  after  his  deleat  under  the  walls  of  Lima,  secreted  himself  in 
that  city,  and  thence,  in  a  few  days,  lied  to  tin;  (,^astlo  of  Callao,  where 
he  remrdned  until  Santa  ("rnz  again  ('iren-d  Lima.    He  then  einbaikcil 


•  This  was  witnessed  liy  many  persons  from  llir  liipnsf'to|is  iiud  kIci'iiIcs,  vAio  represiii: 
it  as  little  iK-ttor  tliiin  a  massacre;  srenes  occurnil  tli.t  wvrc  n'loltinjr  to  the  siglit.  Tin 
historj-  of  tliis  so-called  battli!  will  Ik)  a  dark  spot  on  tin-  cseulelieoiig  orholh  Cliili  and  Pen, 
if  the  full  details  l>e  ever  given. 


POLITICAL    HISTORY    OF    PERU.  295 

for  Ciiayiuiiiil,  wIumi;  Iu-  still  ivinains.  Niofo  soufrht.  nn  asylum  on 
board  Olio  of  iho  fortjig,,  ships  nf  war  lying  in  the  Hay  of  Callao,  as 
lias  been  oiislomary  in  iln-ir  rovoliitions. 

Tlio  (liiy  after  tli(i  Chilians  (.'nfonMi  f.ima,  Cainarra  succeeded  in 
getting  himself  proclaimed  President  of  Pern,  by  a  few  of  his  minif)ns 
nnd(T  the  bayonets  of  Chili,  and  exercised  his  authority  as  far  as  fh.nr 
intluence  extended. 

At  the  time  of  these  occurrences,  Santa  Ouz  was  in  Bolivia,  when, 
on  learning  tho  treachery  of  Orbejoso,  and  the  occupation  of  Lima  by 
the  Chilians,  he  collected  his  foic(;s  in  the  valley  of  Janja,  and  marched 
to  join  (ieiieral  Moran,  call<:d  the  Murat  of  Peru,  who  wan  encamped 
within  three  days'  mandi  of  I.ima,  with  three  thousand  men,  and 
awaiting  him.     Santa  Cruz  approached  Lima,  after  having  onbcted 
his  jiincti(,n  with  Moran.     ITe  moved  on,  confident  of  success,  with 
his  wcll-appoiiiled  force,  a  host  of  marshals  and  generals  in  his  suite, 
and  boasted  that  the  Chilians  would  soon  be  in  a  worse  situation  than 
when  the  treaty  of  Paucarpatji  was  signed.     Uulnes,  on  the  approach 
of  Siuita   Cruz,  retirofl,  leaving    Lima  the  day  before   Santa  Cruz 
entered  if,  embarked  his  troops  in  the  fleet,  and  sailing  north,  landed 
near  ITuaia,  in  the  department  of  Truxillo.     This  much  increased  the 
confidence  of  the   Peruvians,  wlio  now  considered  the   Chilians  as 
alieady  captured.     Believing  that  as  the  rains  had  commenced,  the 
Chilians  had  gone  into  quarters  for  the  winter,  Santa  Cruz  determined 
to  pursue  them  by  land,  with  which  intent  he  made  forced  marches, 
through  fog  and  rain,  and  overtook  the  Chilian  army  at  ITuara,  where 
he  encamped  in  a  strong  position.     ITe  considered  his  enemy  to  be  in 
so  bad  a  plight,  that  he  had  so  little  doubt  of  overcoming  them  with 
ease,  that  it  is  said  he  wrote  to  his  ministers  at  Lima,  in  imitation  of 
Bonajiarte,  (whom  he  seems  to  have  taken  as  his  model,)  "Ah!  these 
Chilians,  I  have  caught  them !"     ITis  intention  was  to  attack  them  as 
soon  as   his   soldiers  had   rested   after  their  fatiguing  march.     The 
Chilians  did  not  give  him  leisure  for  this,  but,  to  the  surprise  of  Santa 
Cruz,  attacked  him  in  his  trenches.     One  of  tho  most  sanguinary 
battles  recorded  in  South  American  history  ensued ;  Santa  Cruz  was 
signally  defeated,  and  barely  escaped  with  his  life,  accompanied  by 
no  more  than  twenty  soldiers.     His  whole  army  was  entirely  cut  up, 
two  of  his  generals  killed,  and  three  taken  prisoners.     This  battle 
decided  the  fate  of  the  Peru-Bolivian  ('onfederation.     Santa  Cruz  was 
the  first  to  take  the  news  to  Lima.     He  was  joined  there  by  Moran, 
wiiom  he  placed  in  the  Castle  of  Callao,  with  orders  to  hold  out  four 
months,  previous  to  which  time  he  would  bring  relief,  and  reinstate 


■ 


21)0 


I'  ()  I,  I  T  I  C  A  T.    II  I  8  T  ()  II  Y    ()  l'    !•  K  R  U. 


Iiinisclf  iti  iiiilliorily.  llo  was  piufcciiin^'  Ik  AnMiuipii,  wlioii  ikswh 
roiutliod  liiiii  that  (Iimhu'iiI  HiilKniaii,  \\\c  ISnliviiin  (-oMiiMiuKlcr-in-c^Iiicr, 
liad  il(!(-lai'i-(l  au;aiiisl  him  in  Hoiiviii,  and  also  thai  (li'iiural  V^,>lasi-,(> 
was  iiaiiiod  l*n!sidont ;  lastly,  Ari!(|nii>a,  thi;  faithful  Ai(!(|iii|)ii,  dusortcnl 
lilin,  with  nil  his  oIlictMs,  with  out!  or  two  oxco|itioiis.  Kvory  vvlioro 
his  lilb  was  criod  for;  In;  had  hut  time  to  moiitit  his  horso  and  fly  to 
Islay,  accom|iaiiii!d  hy  (I('iU!fal  MilliM-,  Cardciio,  and  (iarcia  dt;|  Jiio, 
wIh)  still  ndhorod  to  him.  Tliuy  wore  holly  ])uisucd  hy  a  Iroop  of 
cnvulry,  and  anivtul  just  in  liiiio  to  gtst  on  hoard  tlu!  Hritisli  sloop-of. 
vvar  Samaraii^,  which  was  lyiny  in  tlu;  roadstiNid.  Ilort;  tho  l'rott;c,lor 
found  a  rosting-placo,  and  is  said  'o  havi;  fell  hiniscjjf  groatly  r(!lii!vt!d 
from  the  incessant  troubles  he  had  Iuhui  enj;afj;<!d  in  for  the  last  three 
years.  Thus  ended  his  jiolitical  career.  He  was  taken  to  (Iuayai|uil, 
where  ho  Iiuh  since  remained,  formini;  new  plans  lo  involve  his  coiuitry 
in  war,  for  his  own  personal  ai:;fj;ran(li/.i'm(;ut.  lie  had  promised 
hotter  for  Pern  than  any  other  ruler  luil'ore  him,  but  his  uud)ilion 
destroyed  all  the  plans  ho  had  formed  for  hia  country's  j^ood,  and  ho 
ended  by  entailiiif^  upon  iier  many  dillicultios  and  troubles,  that  will 
take  a  long  time  lo  recover  from. 

Rulnos,  after  his  victory  of  V^iniiai,  innnediatiily  embarked,  mid 
sailed  for  (^alluo,  where  ho  a_u;ain  discMuharked,  and  took  possession  of 
I.in»a.  (lamarra,  as  1  have  before  said,  was  proclaimed  President,  by 
a  (\)n}»ross  convoked  by  himself,  which  votctl  at  the  point  of  the 
baj'oncl.  This  has  not  been  nimsual  in  South  America,  and  all  the 
acta  of  the  Congresses  may  in  fact  be  called  the  sole  will  of  the  clii(!f 
magistrate,  under  whatever  title  they  may  be  issued.  Besidcis  naming 
Gamarra  President,  this  Congress  inllicted  uiutn  the  people  a  new  con- 
stitution by  his  direction. 

The  battle  of  Yungai,  which  took  place  on  the  yoth  .Tainiary,  IH.'li), 
concluded  the  war  with  Santa  Cruz,  and  entirely  overthrew  his  jiower 
by  the  loss  of  his  whole  army  (in  these  countritis  u  very  few  troops 
obtain  tlio  name).  In  this  battle  there  were  four  thousand  two  hundred 
Chilians,  and  four  thousand  five  hundred  Peru-TJolivians  engaged. 
Fifteen  hundred  of  the  former,  and  two  thousand  of  the  latter,  were 
left  dead  on  the  field  ;  the  woumled  Chilians  were  numerous,  but  those 
of  the  Peru-Bolivians  were  said  to  luive  been  put  ti»  death  in  the  rout 
which  ensued.  The  battle  began  at  six  o'clof  k  in  the  morning,  and 
was  contested  for  six  and  a  half  hours.  The  Peru-Bolivians  complain 
that  at  its  conuuencement  great  advantages  were  lost  to  tb.em  liv  dii' 
conduct  of  Colonel  Cuilaste,  who  with  seven  hundred  men,  lu'l rayed 
his  trust,  and  early  decided  the  fate  of  the  battle.     It  is  said  that  every 


POLITICAL    niSTOIJY    OF    !•  K  R  U.  ^Oj 

soLiior.  on  boll,  si.los  lo.,.!.,  ••  ..,,.,„  ,,;,  ,.,,„  ,,„„,,,,  ,^,„,  ^^,^,,^.  ^,^^.^, 
.«I.--  a.s  Ion.  as  |,o  .:Ih,s,,,  ,|,.  olli.-.crs  having  li„lo  or  no  .-..ntrol  over 

"""v:;:  :'"'"'• '  ■"'"■••' "  '•'■i-t..iiysui.i.,i.at  .i.  ..oopscom 

""•""'•"'  "'-f -'-S  -1  ....t  .1.  o,Ii..o.-s  ti.o  ,n,o,s.  If  it  ,.,ul  L  boon 
-.  ...any  ol  ,ho  a.,.s  of.n.cl.y  a..d  ba.ba.ity  .hat  a.o  .op.-os...,...,!        '[ 

'Vl  I  T,"   '"'""f  '•""•■"''   ^^"'"•'    '""^   '■-'•   ^''^•"'  1''-=" 

,  -h  li':.  '"'  '  ™'-;-;l--'.yiMgaIl  th,.  glory  of  the  day  to 
tlH.  (h.ha..s  whoso  avovvo.l  objoo.  i,.  co...ing  to  ]'or.,,  was  to  make 
wa.-  aga.nst  Sa..ta  (Wu,,  a..,l  ..o.  against  tho  l'o.„via..s 

(.an.a.rawas  ,.ow  ostablishod  fi.„.ly  i,.  Pen,,  a..d  .he  Confederation 
l'H.ke..  „,..  Ih,h.os  a,.d  his  fo.vos  .-o.un.ed  to  Chili,  where  he  h  " 
s, nee  bc^eleva.e  ,.>  ,h.  |,i,,,..,  .nice  of  the  republie  (,hat  of  IVesi- 
'lei..).      1  bus  ended  )1.(!  year  IH.'H). 

In  IHIO.  Bolivia,  after  the  over.hrow  of  Sa,.fa  Cr,j/,  became  the 
l..-ey  o.  nval  faet.ons.  a,.d  Ca.na.Ta  was  invi.ed  to  eome  witl.  a,' 
an..ed  n>..e  a,.d  se„le  their  disputes.  No  soo.,er,  howeve,-,  h  h 
K^  ed  lo  v.a.tl.an  ,he  rival  ehiels.  ,b..ge„ing  their  ow,.  ;,.a.-rels, 
■"M  ..I.  (...  . he.r  an..„os.ty  agah.st  him  exeee.led  their  ovvn  little 
.:alons.es.  They  at.aeked  hi...  at  disadva,.tage,  a,.,l  eon.ple.ely  routed 
In  l.n-ces;  he  l.n..seli  was  killed  i,.  his  .light  innn  the  fidd  of  ba,.Ie 
n..,  Rohy.ans  ,n  tl.e.r  tun.  now  i..va,lo,l  Peru,  but  th.-ougl,  .he  n.edia- 
<•'  of  M'.h,a  peace  was  b.-o„ght  about,  which  left  both  Pe,-u  a,)d 
^  •  •;-.  m  a  sla.e  o(  g.-oat  a..archy  a..d  confusion  :  all  the  men  of  any 
"<>'•'  endcavoi.r.ng  to  c.-ea.e  parties  for  themselves  ^ 

'I'l'o  above  sketch  of  the  histo.y  of  Peru  has  been  obtained  partly 
f.n.n  persons  lo.,g  .eside...  a..d  eye-wi.i.esses  of  ma.,yof,ho  s Les 
mul  .he  few  o.hc.al  docu...e...s  .hat  have  been  from  ti.L^  to  time  pub-' 

*  To  co,r.pleto  the  histoiy  of  the  misgoven.ment  of  Peru.  I  will 
now  add  short  b.ographical  sketches  of  the  chiefs  who  have  been  e 
Pnnnpa  actors  ...  all  these  ..-oubles  a,.d  .-evolutions:  these  w  re 
o...a.n-I  n-o.n  n.d.viduals  who  we.e  personally  acp.ainted  wi.h  nui:^ 

In  .he  onler  of  events,  as  they  have  occur.-ed,  Bolivar  stands  firs. ; 
Ins  h.s.ory  ,s.  howeve.-,  too  well  known  to  nee<l  any  detail  I  c 
nn.ioub.edly  had  talents,  a,.d  was  p,-obably  at  fi.st  L  t  tt  ad 
cons.-,en..ous  pa.,-iot.  He  split  upon  the  .-..ck  that  had  a  e-ulv 
wrecke  so  ...any  befi.re  l.i.n.  His  desi.-e  of  pc,-sonal  ^.'^^^^Z 
cause.      „n  to  lo,-get  ,l.at  he  set  out  .o  p,-o...o,e  the  welih^  an    hZ 

-'>"b....,n,  and    for  many  years  previous  to  his   death,  aeeied   his 

VOL.  I.  .,g 


208 


POLITICAL   HISTORY    OF   PERU. 


country,  which  he  believed  to  be  indebted  to  him,  of  ingratitude,  for 
not  preferring  his  interests  to  her  own  happiness.  Notwithstanding 
his  many  faults,  posterity  will  give  him  due  credit  for  his  meritorious 
actions.  This,  however,  does  not  satisfy  the  South  Americans.  Their 
taste  and  customs  lead  them  to  desire  present  gratification  rather 
than  posthumous  fame.  It  is  remarkable,  that  not  one  of  the  men  that 
the  revolutions  in  South  America  have  brought  forth,  appears  to  have 
been  influenced  by  the  feeling  that  he  was  serving  his  country. 

La  Mar  was,  during  the  early  part  of  the  war  of  the  revolution,  in 
the  Spanish  service ;  but  he  afterwards  joined  the  popular  side.  He 
served  with  great  credit  to  himself  until  the  close  of  it,  and  contri- 
buted much  to  the  success  of  the  last  and  decisive  battle  of  Ayacucho. 
After  this  he  retired  to  Guayaquil,  where  he  had  married  a  lady  of 
good  family,  and  remained  quietly  in  the  enjoyment  of  domestic  com- 
fort, until  he  was  called  to  the  presidency  of  Peru.  He  was  a  man  of 
respectable  talents,  pure  and  unsuspected  integrity,  and  universally 
esteemed  in  private  life.  He  died  in  Central  America,  whither  he  had 
been  banished  by  Gamarra,  leaving  a  reputation  much  fairer  than  that 
of  any  of  his  associates. 

Gamarra  also  had  served  for  several  years  in  the  Spanish  army, 
before  the  revolution  broke  out.  He  early  joined  the  patriot  side.  As 
a  subaltern,  he  acquired  the  reputation  of  being  an  active  and  zealous 
officer;  but  on  his  proinotion  to  higher  grades,  he  is  said  to  have  dis- 
played, in  the  battles  and  skirmishes  in  which  he  was  engaged,  but 
little  military  skill,  and  his  courage  was  more  than  once  questioned. 
At  the  close  of  the  war,  he  was  raised  to  the  rank  of  general  of 
division ;  and  his  first  act,  as  has  been  seen,  was  to  desert  La  Mar  at 
Portete,  which  manifested  both  his  treachery  and  cowardice.  His 
success  has  been  ascribed  to  his  skill  in  intrigue,  and  to  his  making 
use  of  the  patronage  of  his  station  to  effect  his  purposes.  He  trampled 
upon  the  rights  of  those  over  whom  he  ruled,  while  at  the  same  time 
he  was  making  the  strongest  professions  in  favour  of  democratic 
principles,  and  the  rights  of  the  people.  Under  the  pretext  of 
restoring  to  his  country  its  violated  constitution,  he  has  twice  over- 
thrown the  established  authorities,  and  placed  himself  in  power  at 
the  point  of  the  bayonet.  Lavish  of  the  public  treasure,  and  equally 
careless  in  the  economy  of  his  private  affairs,  he  lived  and  died 
in  poverty.  False  in  his  friendships,  and  unforgiving  in  his  enmities, 
he  was  especially  to  be  feared  by  those  with  whom  he  became 
apparently  reconciled  after  a  quarrel.  He  has  left  but  few  admirers, 
although  through  his  management  he  contrived  to  hold  the  reins  of 


POLITICAL    HISTORY   OF    PERU.  299 

government  longer  than  any  one  who  has  yet  occupied  the  presidential 

Lafuente  was  a  cadet  in  the  Spanish  service,  but  joined  the  patriot 
cause     He  did  not  gain  much  reputation  in  the  war  of  the  revolution, 
and  his  first  essay  as  a  general  officer  was  a  disobedience  of  orders 
in  landmg  at  Callao,  while  on  his  way  to  join  La  Mar,  at  the  same 
time  uniting  m  intrigues  with  Gamarra,  whom  he  succeeded  in  gettine 
nominated  as  President,  and  himself  as  Vice-President.    These  two 
chiefs  appear  to  have  understood  each  other,  and,  to  avoid  collision  in 
the  division  of  the  spoils,  agreed  that  each  should  pursue  his  leading 
passion.    Gamarra  accordingly  conferred  honours  and  rewards,  whilst 
Lafuonto  indulged  his  mercenary  propensity  in  the  accumulation  of 
wealth.     The  latter  has  grown  rich,  by  robbing  the  people  and  by 
farming  out  the   resources  of  the   state   to   his   agents  and  friends. 
Although  ccrtamly  not  the  only  chief  magistrate  who  has  plundered 
the  state,  he  is,  perhaps,  the  only  one  in  Peru  who  has  hoarded  his  ill- 
gotten  wealth,  and  obtained  affluence  whilst  his  country  was  impo- 
verished.    He  is  still  living,  and  was  acting  as  chief  during  our  visit 
to  Lima.  ° 

Orbejoso  served  in  the  patriot  army  during  the  revolution,  and  at 
the  close  of  the  war  retired  to  his  estate  near  Truxillo,  with  but  little 

\7T'Z:u  ^^  '''"^'"'^  ""^"  ''^'"'''^   '^  'he  presidency,  in 

1831.  Without  talents  as  a  statesman  or  courage  as  a  soldier,  he 
acquired  more  popularity  than  any  other  of  his  contemporaries  in 
Peru.  He  undoubtedly  sold  his  country  to  Santa  Cruz,  receiving  as 
the  price  of  it  the  appointment  of  President  of  North  Peru,  or  rather 
that  of  one  of  Santa  Cruz's  lieutenants.  At  the  moment  of  a  threatened 
invasion  from  Chili,  he  renounced  the  Confederation,  in  order  to 
acquire  independent  command,  and  regained  much  of  his  losf  popu- 
anty  by  a  show  of  patriotism  and  gallantry  in  opposing  the  invading 
fo.ce.  His  imbecility  and  want  of  knowledge,  together  with  the 
conduct  of  General  Nieto,  lost  him  the  battle  under  thf  walls  of  Lima 
as  M-ell  as  the  possession  of  the  city,  and  all  his  troops.  Soon  after- 
wards, he  was  found  in  retirement  at  Guayaquil,  where  he  has  been 
constantly  occupied  in  forming  plans  for  his  reinstatement  to  power 

Salaverry  served  as  a  cadet  in  the  last  year  of  the  revolution,  and 
was  esteemed  an  en'.erprising  and  gallant  officer.  He  was,  however 
of  a  reckless  disposition,  and  it  is  related  that  he  threatened  to  shoot' 
his  mother,  who  had  opposed  one  of  his  youthful  freaks.  Others,  how- 
ever  bear  testiriruy  to  his  good  conduct  in  all  his  domestic  relations, 
and  to  his  kind...     and  generosity.    When  he  usurped  the  supreme 


300 


POLITICAL    HISTORY   OF  PERU. 


authority,  he  had  only  about  two  hundred  men  at  his  command,  yet  in 
less  than  three  montfis  the  whole  country  had  recognised  his  authority 
and  government.  In  his  short  public  career  he  certainly  displayed  violent 
passions,  and  he  evinced  cruelty  in  many  of  his  acts;  but  he  seems  at 
timns  to  have  had  impulses  of  generosity,  though  they  may  have  been  but 
feeble.  When  he  assumed  the  command,  and  declared  himself  Supreme 
Chief,  he  banished  General  Nieto,  a  superior  officer.  The  captain  of 
the  vessel  in  which  he  went  was  induced  to  land  him  in  the  north  of 
Peru,  where  he  collected  some  troops,  and  made  war  upon  Salaverry, 
who  immediately  marched  against  him,  vowing  vengeance  for  what 
he  termed  his  ungrateful  conduct,  in  return  for  his  lenity.  On 
Salaverry's  approach,  one  of  Nieto's  followers  betrayed  him,  and  he 
vvas  surprised  and  captured.  Salaverry  immediately  invited  him  to 
his  tent ;  they  supped  and  slept  together  on  the  same  hide,  but  he  after- 
wards banished  him  from  Peru. 

Another  act,  which  does  not  show  him  in  quite  so  amiable  a  light, 
was  his  ordering  General  Valle  Reistra,  an  old  companion,  an  estima- 
ble and  good  officer,  to  be  torn  from  his  wife  at  midnight,  and  within 
her  hearing  shot  in  cold  blood,  for  no  alleged  crime,  but  it  is  supposed 
merely  for  the  purpose  of  striking  terror  into  his  opponents.  Salaverry 
was  full  of  energy,  both  to  determine  and  execute  his  plans,  and  evinced 
talents  which,  had  they  been  controlled  by  judgment  and  guided  by 
moral  principle,  might  have  consolidated  his  power  and  saved  his 
country  from  the  anarchy  which  has  since  existed.  He  possessed  the 
true  spirit  to  rule  the  Peruvians,  so  far  as  energy  was  concerned ;  and 
before  Peru  becomes  settled,  she  will  need  some  military  despotism,  in 
order  to  break  down  the  small  and  numerous  contending  chiefs,  who 
prove,  as  each  gains  the  ascendency,  the  worst  of  tyrants.  The  mode 
of  his  death  has  already  been  spoken  of. 

Santa  Cruz  was  in  the  Spanish  service  at  the  commencement  of  the 
revolution,  and  being  captured  by  the  patriots,  was  for  some  time  a 
prisoner  in  Buenos  Ayres.  On  his  liberation  he  espoused  the  popular 
cause,  and  was  for  a  short  time  at  the  head  of  the  government  in 
Peru,  whc-e  he  had  been  placed  by  Bolivar,  and  continued  until  the 
setting  aside  of  that  chieftain's  authority,  and  the  election  of  La  Mar 
as  President.  Santa  Cruz  was  expelled  by  the  intrigues  of  his  enemies, 
but  was  afterwards  employed  as  minister  to  Chili.  His  subsequent 
elevation  to  the  presidency  of  Bolivia  has  led  to  the  suspicion  that  he 
participated  in  the  assassination  of  the  former  President,  Blanco ;  and 
his  patronage  of  the  known  actors  in  that  affair,  gave  strong  grounds 
for  believing  the  truth  of  the  report. 


POLITICAL   HISTORY   OF    PERU.  gni 

Santa  Cruz  is  a  man  of  ordinary  talents,  but  of  sound  common  sense. 
Prom  his  education  (which  is  superior  to  that  of  his  countryman)  he  is 
far  in  advance  of  them  in  his  knowledge  and  appreciation  of  the  insti- 
tutions  of  other  countries.  He  is  indefatigable  in  his  labours,  and 
always  exacts  the  attention  of  others  to  their  duties.  His  passions  are 
strong  and  his  temper  unforgiving.  Mercenary  in  his  disposition,  and 
economical  in  his  habits,  he  has  always  been  lavish  of  the  public 
treasure  to  promote  his  own  views.  From  his  liberal  cast  of  mind,  he 
generally  manifested  a  strong  desire  to  forward  the  introduction  of 
improvements,  and  to  adopt  such  measures  as  would  tend  to  improve 
the  state  and  its  people.  His  measures  undertaken  for  this  purpose 
were  sometimes  arbitrary,  and  by  them,  and  his  desire  to  engross  all 
the  power  in  his  own  person,  he  lost  much  popularity.  Foreigners 
esteemed  him  as  one  of  the  most  efficient  chief  magistrates  thatliave 
ever  presided  over  this  unfortunate  country. 

For  the  purpose  of  elucidating  the  character  of  the  proceedings  of 
the  chiefs  in  this  country,  I  will  conclude  by  giving  a  translation  of 
one  of  the  decrees,  establishing  the  government  of  South  Peru,  bv 
Santa  Cruz.  ^ 


Considerando. 

1.  That  the  government  of  South  Peru  remains  incomplete  by  the 
death  and  absence  of  some  of  the  persons  composing  it. 

2.  That  the  necessity  exists,  that  that  government  should  have  an 
organization  more  simple  than  it  has  yet  enjoyed. 

It  is  decreed. 

Article  1.  That  the  government  of  South  Peru  be  composed  of  a 
Provisionary  President,  and  a  Secretary-General,  who  shall  transact 
all  the  ordinary  affairs  of  the  Interior  and  Hacienda,  agreeably  to  the 
laws,  orders,  and  existing  decrees. 

Article  2.  The  Provisional  President  will  place  his  rubric  to  all  the 
resolutions  and  official  papers,  and  sign,  with  the  Secretary-General 
the  decrees  which  he  may  issue.  ' 

Article  3.  The  Provisional  President  and  Secretary  are  responsible 
for  all  the  acts  of  his  administration. 

Article  4.  There  shall  be  two  Secretaries,  one  for  the  Interior,  the 
other  for  the  Hacienda,  with  the  necessary  subordinates. 

Article  5.  The  Provisional  President  will  fill  all  the  vacant  places. 
and  displace  any  from  bad  conduct,  or  the  neglectful  performance  of 
his  duties,  or  transfer  them  to  other  posts,  as  he  may  deem  best  for 
the  public  benefit. 

SA 


\ 


809 


POLITIC  A  I,    IIISTOUY    OF   PERU. 


Artit!lo  fl.  H(!  may  Inv  duties,  if  tlioy  should  bo  necessary  for  the 
wants  of  the  sorvicrc  or  stale. 

Article  7.  He  will  have  all  the  executive  power  which  may  be 
necessary  for  the  security,  order,  and  rof^idation  of  iho  state,  in  every 
thing  that  is  not  reserved  by  this  present  decree;  notwithstanding,  he 
cannot  take  the  proper  rights  belonging  to  the  executive  power,  neither 
give  orders  nor  resolutions  contrary  to  the  existing  legislation,  nor  to 
the  decrees  which  may  be  in  full  force,  but  to  facilitate,  make  clear,  and 
do  away  with  the  dilHcultics  which  may  impede  their  execution,  and 
that  they  may  bo  able  to  execute  the  intended  reforms  and  mandates. 

Article  H.  Tho  Provisional  President  of  South  Peru  will  receive  the 
honours  and  treattnont  which  are  duo  to  a  chief  having  executive 
power,  and  the  Secretary-General  those  corresponding  to  a  minister 
of  the  cabinet. 

My  Secretary-General  is  charged  with  the  execution  of  the  present 
decree,  who  will  have  it  printed  and  circulated. 

Given  in  the  Protectoral  Palaco  of  Puno,  17th  September,  1837. 

(Signed)  Andres  Santa  Cruz. 

The  Secretary-General, 

M.  Db  la  Cruz  Mkndez. 

Another  decree  followed  this,  of  the  same  date,  appointing  General 
Herrcra  the  Provisional  President,  and  Colonel  Don  Juan  Jose  Lavrca 
Secretary-General. 

The  results  of  my  inquiries  into  the  commerce  and  trade  of  Peru, 
are  by  no  means  satisfactory.  The  vacillating  policy  pursued  towards 
the  trade  has  been  most  extraordinary ;  and  some  of  those  engaged  in 
commercial  pursuits  have  freciuently  been  enabled,  through  the  neces- 
sities  of  the  government,  to  reap  many  advantages.  Much  illicit  trade 
was  carried  on,  even  before  the  revolution,  under  the  Spanish  rule. 
The  restriction  laid  by  its  authority  on  commerce,  kept  tho  prices  of 
imports  high,  whilst  the  low  value  of  exports,  left  to  tho  arbitrary 
demand  of  monopolists,  prevented  or  diminished  the  means  of  these 
countries  to  pay  for  what  they  wanted  from  abroad. 

From  this  state  of  things  resulted  the  limited  trade  and  enormous 
profits  to  a  few  individuals,  under  tho  colonial  system.  As  soon  as  the 
ports  were  opened,  an  expansion  took  place,  and  the  trade  was  entirely 
overdone.  The  markets  became  glutted  with  all  kinds  of  foreign 
fobrics,  and  many  ruinous  voyages  were  made  from  ignorance  of  the 
wants  of  the  people,  and  their  means  of  payment. 

For  the  last  ten  years  the  trade  has  been  better  understood.    The 


POLITICAL   HISTORY    OF   PERU.  jog 

demand  and  llu,  n.cans  of  payment  huvo  b.en  n.oro  «,,,u.ratolv  am-or- 
.nmcd.  and  a  hcuhhy  and  incroaning  connncn-c  l.as  bee       afied  o 
as  far  as  the  state  of  the  country  and  the  lIuctuatio,.s  w  id.  are 

/".wll  not  hea.  a  comparison  with  that  of  Chili,  and  while  the 
•-■•ner  has  been  di.ninishing.  the  latter  has  been  ra  J^in  si  u 
A  IH.rt.on  ol  the  suppUes  which  were  Ibnnerly  sent  to  l^  ru  Xlc  2 
-w  o  ta,nod  in  Chili,  and  sent  to  their  desti.Lion  in  cZi  g^  ^     ' 

I  .s  <.hange  has  been  brought  about  by  the  unwise  policy  tsue  di  J 
the  various  Peruvian  nders,  in  in.posing  heavy  traLi  duir'r'^ 
.s  also  „.  part  to  be  attributed  to  .h'e  advtntageLs  si  1        ,   Va    ^ 

.no. competent  J'"  ^0^:^^::^:  ':::^rzx;:^ 

mar  o   foreign  commerce  on  the  west  coast  of  America.         ^        ' 
Am'';;  :: i:r^^^^^^  --^«^  on  by  the  English. 

Spanish  vessels  aL"h     e  b^i'    IS^  f^    '""'  "".7'"""  "'"' 
.ho  Mediterranean  /lags  are  seen  on  the t«'st?      "^"^""""^  ""'""  "^ 
1  he  annual  imports  into  Peru  are  co.nbined  so  much  with  those  of 

-"I-  IV..in  IVt„  ,„■„  as  follow™  ""°-     ™°  """"" 


III  dollara  ond  bullion, 

liiirk,  liidfs,  wool,  cotton,  &.O., 


•4,500,000 
500,000 

•5,000,000 


.irL.  whence  U,o  ^ „„ L"::,:    ~  'n"    ""  T'''""  """"'""^ 
M  Ims  boon  alrondv  ,iirt  T.^         .  ,     "^'^''y  ■■'"™<"-0'l  IhM, 

in  Chili  and  I'cru  fo    Sn,  J7'"    '''"'  f  ^"^^  ™  ""'""'"y  ""'^ 

apFar  in  Iho  above  „o,e  of  ex^rl,  ''  *"'""'  ""''  ''<'  ~' 

of  .hoL^r  kind,  :ZZ:  ul'tf^Tr^'  'r'y  •'»  r 

.he  co„,„.p,i„„  of  ,„e,e  good,  is  Z    o  *  la^'™  tf  """ 
ago,  and  it  is  sliil  increasing.  ""'  "^  J"^"" 


304 


POLITICAL    HISTORY   OF   PERU. 


The  article  of  flour,  however,  has  greatly  fallen  oil":  previous  to 
1830,  there  were  nearly  thirty  thousand  barrels  exported  to  Peru  from 
the  United  States ;  in  the  last  three  years,  only  six  thousand ;  and  in 
1841,  but  one  thousand;  in  consequence  of  Peru  being  abundantly 
supplied  from  Chili. 


VOUNTAIN  AT  LIMA. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


CONTENTS. 

HTO„K..„P  HEUEP-KDWm  BART.KTT.  EBO.-EDWAnn  MCA...  ESa.-DEPARTTRK 

n0.rE-c.UREXTS-.XPKH.ME^TS-TB„PB„ATUaK-A.KXAX«KROoJ_crErr 
DE  TONNERRE-APPEAUANCE  OF  IT-SURVFV     f^AT.vr..      .  CLERMONT 

WITH  THE  V4T,vPa    ,  .»  ''^-SURVEY -NATIVES -JOHN  SAC  -  DIPFICULTIEfl 

Tk   ErTIoHL    E  "T"""  '— "-— HVEVB-CORA.  ..ANOS 

-OTOOHO-TAIARA-RARAKA-LANDING-ONEHANDED  CHIEF-HIS  VISIT  TO  THP 
BHIP-INHABITANTS-CATCHINO    PISH-LEAVE-TAKING-OALE-NARROnilpE  "' 

^rNrrAZNTAr"""^"-"^^™  -No-cRiTirpr :: 

ENDER-LANDINO-ARATICA    ISLAND-COMMUNICATION  WITH   ITS   INHABITANTS 
LANmNO-VILLAOE-nESCRIPTION   OF   ISLANO-FRESH    WATER  -  FoT^Ze; 
DESPATCHED    TO    KINO    GEORGES   GROUP- VINCENNES    AND    PEAC^K   DiZeK 
MANHI,  AND  AHII  --NDS-SURVEV-LANDING-OBSERVATIONS     NArVFslIsEK 
rEH-ECLIPSE-PEACOCKDESPAa.„ED  TO  RURICK   IBLAND-VINCENNFS  P^SES   TO 
VAIRSA-INHABITAN^KRHSENSTERNS   ISLAND-METIA  IBLANI^ITS  aPPEA„!nIe 
-SURVEV    LANDING-NATIVES-MISSIONARIES.  KINDNESS-COS^MeLa^^^^^^^^^ 
^LAND-VEGETATION-APPEARANCE  OF  THE  ISLAND-DEPARTURE-ARR^AL   ^T 
TAHITI-ANCHOR  IN  MATAVAI  BAV-OBSERVATIONS  ON  POINT  VENUS-PR«oI 
OF.ORPOISE-PROCEEDINGB  OF   PKACOCK - ARi;T.A-StniVEV-NAI^rr3 
ISLAND^ORAL   BLOCKS-METIA    -I-AND-OBSERVATIONS-TETUAROA-KlL™ 
-TIOKEA   AND  OUKA-HISTOHV  OF  PAUMOTU  GBOUP-<.HARACTER  OF  T^  ZbT 

tants-population.  inhabi. 


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SirCha*  cjaunben  I.         EuufoU 


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._t^n 


CHAPTER  XV. 

PAUMOTU    GROUP. 
1839. 

ou^rtof  Tfl"'"'  """-^f  'f!!'^  *^^  "^^^"^^y  °"^fi^«  ^"d  taken  ,„ 

ship  Re  ief  wifnh  ;'  '!  ''^^  '^"^^  ^^^^  ^'"^^^'^^d  i»  the  store- 

h.p  Relief  which  was  ordered  to  land  a  part  of  them  at  the  Sandwich 

roceed  tole  H  T.  I'  '^^^'  ^'^^^  ««"^^  W^'^'  ^«-  -"tr  o 
proceed  to  the  United  States  by  the  way  of  Cape  Horn. 

We  took  leave  of  our  kind  friends,  Edwin  Bartlett,  Esq..  United 

cZ     T?both    r'rr  "'.  ^''''''  ^'^^"'  Esc,;Unit'ed  Sre 
thetkindne.,        A      T  ^'"^'''"^"  ^  ^"^  ""^^^  ^"^"3^  obligations  for 
Iffairs      Th    '  r       '"f«.^"^-tion   in   relation  to  the   country  and  its 
affairs      Their  long  residence  had  made  them  familiar  with  those 

At  5  P  „.,  having  a  light  breeze,  the  signal  was  made  to  get  under 
Captain  M  Keever  accompanied  us  until  we  reached  the  point  of 

imoo^tanr';:,    K     '.'V''"f  '^^^^'  "^  ^^P^-^^^^  °-  ^hanks'for  the 
important  aid  he  had  rendered   us,  by  giving  him  several  hearty 

The  day  after  our  departure,  we  fell  in  with  a  Peruvian  brig,  from 

leewa^fnV  h  "'"I       Tf '  ''^''^  ^^  ^"PP''^*^-     ^^'  ^ad  fallen  to 

tZf    f  1  ^""  ^     '  '""^  ^''  P'°P'^  ^^'•^  ^^^"'^^d  to  much  distress  for 
want  ot  that  necessary  article. 

I  had  felt  much  anxiety  lest  the  small-pox  should  make  its  appear- 
ance among  us,  and  looked  forward  daily  with  apprehension  to  the 
hour  when  the  sick  reports  were  made.  On  the  14th  my  worst  fears 
were  realized,  for  the  Peacock  made  signal  that  theyhad  a  c Leo 
that  disease  on  board.     ^*  f^^* — '-'  •    »         •  -  - 


fortunately  proved  of  a  mild  type,  and 

(307) 


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■  •        EiwolT 


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Jmu  II  i-rrtfi  I  o 


«  ifalla  or 


H'lftt/rnsfrtn 


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,«k/ 


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*(«(/!  iH-aiiet  / 


i^jtiiUifuttt  or 


^'■^  TufHiia  i 
Mtktmu  t 

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flKlihilii/    / 


lUnl  t 


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fjl 

Hfilitut  nr    . 

i 

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AKClITPELAnO 

OH 
BY  IlIK 

M.5.£.^.£a. 
183D. 


FMfitine 


^TLT-j;-—- ^ ::  -■_ -^^^-j^ 


308 


PAUMOTU   GROUP. 


other  symptoms  occuncd  tliiit  left  iiny  doubt  of  the  entire  extinction 
of  the  contagion.  I  was,  thorefore,  greatly  relieved,  as  day  after  day 
elapsed,  to  be  assured  tiiut  we  had  not  only  escaped  so  dreadful  a 
scourge  ourselves,  but  that  there  was  no  danger  of  its  being  communi- 
cated to  the  islanders. 

Being  now  about  to  enter  upon  a  new  field  of  observation,  in  which 
we  should  necessarily  come  much  in  contact  with  the  natives,  I  issued 
the  following  General  Order,  to  guard  against  any  misdemeanours,  and 
insure  a  correct  deportmeht  in  both  officers  and  men,  during  our  inter- 
course with  the  islanders. 


GENERAL  ORDER. 


The  undersigned,  commanding  the  Exploring  Expedition,  informs 
the  officers  and  crews  under  his  command,  that  as  they  are  now  about 
to  visit  the  Islands  of  the  Pacific,  and  to  have  intercourse  with  their 
inhabitants,  he  wishes  to  inculcate  on  all  in  the  squadron,  that  courtesy 
and  kindness  towards  the  natives,  which  are  well  understood  and  fell 
by  all  classes  of  mankind ;  and  trusts  that  neither  contempt  of,  nor 
interference  with,  their  customs,  habits,  manners,  and  prejudices,  nor 
arrogance  over  them  will  be  shown  bj  any  one  belonging  to  the 
squadron ;  bearing  always  in  mind,  that  savage  nations  have  but 
vague  ideas  of  the  rights  of  property,  and  that  theft  committed  by 
them  has  been  the  great  cause  of  collision  between  them  and  civilized 
nations. 

He  would  therefore  enjoin  upon  all  great  moderation  in  every  thing 
respecting  their  intercourse  with  them,  that  no  act  of  hostility  will  be 
committed,  and  that  an  appeal  will  be  made  rather  to  their  good-will 
than  to  their  fears. 

That  the  manner  of  trading  with  them  which  will  be  established  in 
the  squadron,  will  be  most  strictly  adhered  to  by  all,  and  that  in  the 
event  of  difficulties  or  collision,  all  acts  of  force  will  be  avoided,  unless 
for  self-protection;  in  short,  our  aim  shall  be  peace,  good-will,  and 
proper  decorum  to  every  class,  bearing  constantly  in  mind,  that  the 
future  intercourse  of  our  countrymen  with  the  natives  of  the  islands 
we  may  visit,  will  very  much  depend  on  the  impression  made  on  their 
minds  by  us,  and  recollecting,  that  it  is  in  the  nature  of  the  savage 
long  to  remember  benefits,  and  never  to  forget  injuries. 

It  therefore  behooves  us,  wherever  we  go,  to  leave  behind  us,  whether 
among  civilized  or  savage  nations,  favourable  impressions,  not  only  as 
respects  this  national  Expedition,  but  of  our  flag  and  countrymen. 
The  Commander-in-chief  feels  a  confidence  in  relying  on  the  officers 
and  crews  to  carry  out  these  views,  from  their  good  and  exemplary 


PAUMOTU   GROUP 


300 


(Signed)  Charles  Wilkes, 

July  13th,  1839.  Commanding  Exploring  Expedition, 

United  States  Ship  Vincennes. 

gu  shed  navl^rn'  T"'"''''''^  f  ^'^  ""'^'''''^^  ^>^  '^at  distin- 
guished navigator  and   promoter  of  science,  Admiral  Krusenstern 

v^uldthus  enable  us  to  trace  the  inhabitants  from  one  td  of  Polv 
nesia  o  the  other,  across  the  Pacific.  At  the  same  time  it  aflorced  . 
very  des.able  point  for  magnetic  observations,  and  a  v  si  tol  ;  ,d 
a  so  enable  me  to  settle  a  dispute  between  the  two  di  tinUl  d 
Lnghsh  and  French  navigators,  Captains  Beechey  and  Dup  re°y  eh 
nve  to, ts  geographical  position.  The  longitude' adopted'  r^ala' 
from  which  our  measurements  were  made,  was  79°  11'  lo"  W  This 
I  found  to  correspond  well  with  that  of  Valparaiso,  the  meridian 
distance  between  the  two  being  5°  31'  50".  meridian 

On  the  14th  we  found  the  current  setting  to  the  northwest-bv-west 
three  quarters  of  a  mile  per  hour.  'ormwest  by-west 

^hT'^IT^' ""'  °"^  ^""'^'^'^  ^"^  '^^"^y  •"'■'««  fro-^  the  land,  we  had 

At  thfe^  rr/?"  ''  ^'^  ^"^'^'^^  ^«  ''''  b«-S  -  difTerencroft' 
At  three  hundred  fathoms  depth,  it  was  found  to  be  51°.  This  day  the 
current  was  found  setting  south-half-east,  half  a  mile  per  hou.      ' 

rhe  16th  brought  several  showers  of  rain,  the  first  we  had  expe- 
rienced since  the  8th  of  June,  off  Valparaiso.  Here  we  again  tried  the 
nirrent,  but  found  none.  I  now  continued  the  usual  ex^cHm  nts  on 
the  deep-sea  temperature,  dips,  variation,  currents,  the  visibili  y  of  a 
white  object  m  water,  and  the  dip  of  the  horizon,  for  whlh  /must 

On  the  24th,  in  longitude  99°  39'  W.,  we  found  the  current  setting 


810 


PAUMOTU   GROUP. 


southeast  half  a  mile  per  hour,  and  directly  against  the  wind.  Our 
latitude  was  15°  35'  S. 

Until  the  29th  we  had  moderate  breezes.  The  current  this  day  was 
found  east-northeast,  one-third  of  a  mile  per  hour.  At  9  p.  m.  the  wind 
came  from  the  west.  This  evening  we  had  a  beautiful  display  of  the 
zodiacal  light.  It  was  very  bright ;  its  altitude  was  25° ;  the  upper 
part  of  the  cone  was  not  well  marked,  and  its  apex  was  not  defined ; 
the  breadth  of  its  base  was  30°.  A  fair  breeze  from  the  southwest  con- 
tinued  all  the  next  day,  when  we  had  reached  the  longitude  of  113°  29' 
W.,  and  latitude  17°  36'  S. 

On  the  31st,  we  passed  over  the  locality  of  an  island  marked  on  the 
charts  of  Arrowsmith.  Although  we  ran  over  its  position  with  the 
squadron  spread  so  as  to  cover  an  extent  of  thirty-five  miles  in  latitude, 
and  on  its  parallel  for  several  degrees,  lying-to  at  night,  nothing  what- 
ever was  seen  to  indicate  land ;  and  we  therefore  believe  that  it  does 
not  exist. 

On  the  4th  of  August,  the  current  was  found  north  one-third  of  a 
mile  per  hour. 


i 


Temperature  at  surface, 

750 

50  fathoms  below  surfitce,     . 

•            * 

74 

100    "            "            " 

73i 

200    "            "            " 

61 

300    "            "            " 

50 

On  the  5th,  the  current  was  two-thirds  of  a  mile  per  hour,  to  the 
north-northeast. 

The  winds  on  the  parallel  of  18°  S.,  cannot  well  be  termed  "the 
Trades,"  for  at  this  time  of  the  year  they  will  be  found  very  variable, 
though  prevailing  generally  from  the  eastern  quarter,  with  a  long  swell 
from  the  southwest.  The  upper  stratum  of  clouds  were  generally  seen 
flying  from  the  southwest.  The  deep-sea  temperature  on  the  6th,  at 
three  hundred  and  fifty  fathoms  depth,  was  46°,  surface  77°. 

The  7th  proved  a  calm  and  fine  day,  throughout  which  experiments 
were  made  hourly  to  ascertain  the  depth  at  which  a  white  object  could 
be  seen ;  the  altitude  of  the  sun  was  taken  at  each  observation,  and 
also  the  force  and  direction  of  the  current.  The  temperature  of  the 
water  at  one  hundred  fathoms  was  75°,  whilst  that  of  the  surface  was 
77°.     We  were  in  longitude  125°  W.,  latitude  18°  14'  S. 

The  nights  of  the  8th,  9th,  10th,  and  11th,  the  meteoric  showers 
were  looked  for,  the  officers  and  naturalists  keeping  watch,  each 
quarter  of  the  heavens  being  under  vision  at  the  same  time.  On  the 
8th,  upwards  of  one  hundred  shooting  stars  were  seen ;  but  the  nights 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


Our 


I 


of  the  9th,  10th,  and  Uth. 


311 


cloud  > 


mi 


,.  ,  ^.      -         •     ,  were  Cloudy,     un  tne  tormer  we  ] 

hghtning.  thunder  and  rain,  with  squalls  from  the  southwest. 
On  the  12th    Corporal  Alexander  Ogle,  of  the  marines,  died  of 

^ZZTZ  I  'r'\  "^  ^"^  ^  ^^'"^^'^  --'  -d  had  been 

ImZT     Zu      ^"""^  T^""''-    "^  ^""'"''''^  ^he  confidence  of  his 

catd  t'o  h       1"T":  ''  f  '''''■    '"  *^^  '•^"«'--«"  -"  h-"ds  were 
called  to  bury  the  dead,  and  his  body  was  committed  to  the  deep  the 

th?s  .TT'"  'T.  P"'^^'"^'  ''y  '''  ^^^P'-"'  -d  the  ve  s5;  of 
the  squadron  havmg  their  colours  at  half-mast. 

On  the  13th  of  August,  at  five  o'clock,  p.  m..  we  made  Clermont  de 
foun"dT  "  ^'™"'  '''''^'  ^"'^  'y  ^^"^"'  '^•'--^^-^  *he  next  day 

w«  hL  f  .  T  ^'  ^"""'""'  ^''"S  ^^«  ^'^^^  '«^  «or^l  island 
Zf  J  r  '  "  "''"^  "'^"''"^  ^  g'"^'^'  d^^^'  °f  interest.  We  had 
Iw  f  r  ''  "T^'''  ''  ^''"S  "^  '^•"^  ^f  ^''''•y-l«"d,  and  therefore 
looked  for  them  w.th  some  anxiety.  At  first  sighl  the  island  appeared 
much  hke  a  fleet  of  vessels  at  anchor,  nothing  but  the  trees  beTng  seen 
in  the  distance,  and  as  the  ship  rises  and  sinks  with  the  sweUf  he 
ocean,  these  are  alternately  seen  and  lost  sight  of.  On  a  „ea  e 
approach,  the  whole  white  beach  was  distinctly  seen,  constituting  a 
narrow  belt  of  land,  of  a  light  clay  colour,  rising  up  ^ut  of  the  d!ep 
ocean,  the  surf  breaking  on  its  coral  reefs.  surroLding  a  lagoon  of  a 


beautiful  blue  mt  and  perfectly  smooth.  This  island  was  twelve  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  six  hundred  feet  wide  to  its  lagoon!  and 
IS  composed  of  coral  debris  and  vegetable  matter.  The  shrubs  are 
few,  and  not  more  than  from  twelve  to  fifteen  feet  high;  tiie  Cocoa- 
nut  palms  and  Pandanus,  showing  conspicuously  above  them.  We 
found  It.  by  our  survey,  to  be  ten  miles  long,  by  one  and  a  half  wide, 
lying  in  a  west-northwest  and  east-southeast  direction.  The  firs 
sounding,  on  the  east  side  of  the  island,  at  three  hundred  feet  from  the 
reef  was  obtamed  in  ninety  fathoms  (coral  sand);  at  one  hundred  and 
eighty  feet,  eighty-five  fathoms   (coral  sand);   at  one  hundred  and 


312 


PAUMOTU   GROUP. 


thirty  feet,  seven  fathoms  (hard  coral),  being  at  the  edge  of  a  nearly 
perpendicular  shelf;  thence  to  the  shore,  the  bottom  was  uneven, 
decreasing  to  four,  three,  and  two  fathoms,  until  a  second  or  upper 
coral  shelf  rose,  over  which  the  water  at  high  tide  flowed.  This 
extended  to  where  the  beach  is  composed  of  broken  coral  and  shells, 
and  arose  on  a  gentle  declivity  to  ten  feet  high. 

The  Peacock  sounded  within  three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  the 
southern  point  of  the  island :  at  three  hundred  and  fifty  fathoms,  the 
lead  brought  up  for  a  moment,  and  then  again  descended  to  six  hundred 
fathoms  without  reaching  bottom.  When  it  was  hauled  up,  it  had  a 
small  piece  of  white  and  another  of  red  coral  attached  to  it.  The 
west  side  of  the  island  is  a  bare  reef,  over  which  the  surf  breaks 
violently.     There  is  no  opening  or  entrance  to  the  lagoon. 

For  the  purpose  of  surveying  the  island,  the  Peacock  and  Flying- 
Fish  took  the  west  side,  while  the  Vincennes  and  Porpoise  kept  on 
the  east.  Boats  were  lowered  and  sent  on  shore  for  the  purpose  of 
landing ;  several  of  the  officers  and  naturalists  succeeded  in  reaching 
the  beach,  (swimming  through  the  surf,)  where  chey  remained  about 
two  hours  making  collections. 

I  saw  some  natives,  five  men  and  two  women,  and  endeavoured  to 
hold  communication  with  them.  The  former  were  armed  with  long 
spears.  They  were  cautiously  watching  our  movements;  and  after 
the  boats  had  left,  they  were  seen  examining  the  beach  for  articles 
that  might  have  been  dropped.  Every  inducement  was  held  out  to 
them  to  approach  my  boat,  but  without  success ;  and  we  were  obliged 
to  return  on  board  for  the  night,  not  having  succeeded  in  finishing 
the  survey.  Wishing  to  communicate  with  the  natives,  and  effect  a 
landing,  we  lay-to,  and  by  morning  found  that  we  had  drifted  off 
from  the  island  eight  miles  to  the  northwest,  and  did  not  again  r. 
our  station  until  towards  the  afternoon.  I  then  proceeded  to  ti 
beach,  taking  with  me  as  interpreter,  John  Sac,  a  New  Zealandor, 
who  spoke  the  Tahitian  language,  determined,  if  possible,  to  enter 
into  communication  with  the  natives,  and  to  land  to  make  observa- 
tions. Seventeen  natives  were  now  seen  on  the  beach,  armed  with 
long  spears  and  clubs,  which  they  were  brandishing  with  menacing  atti- 
tudes, making  motions  for  me  to  retire.  As  I  approached  them  with 
a  white  flag  flying,  many  more  were  seen  in  the  bushes,  probably  in 
all  about  one  hundred.  I  told  John  Sac  to  speak  to  them,  which  he 
did,  and  found  he  was  understood.  The  only  answer  he  could  get 
from  them  was,  several  of  them  crying  out  at  the  same  time,  "  Go  to 
your  own  land ;  this  belongs  to  us,  and  we  do  not  want  to  have  any 
thing  to  do  with  you."    It  was  impossible  to  beach  the  boat  without 


PAUMOTU    GROUP. 


318 


injury,  on  account  of  the  surf  and  coral;  and  in  order  to  land,  it  was 
necessary  to  swim  a  short  distance,  which  could  not  be  done  without 
our  being  attacked,  and  Ruflbring  injury,  before  we  had  established  a 
friendly  intercourse.     I  therefore  had  recourse  to  throwing  presents  to 
them  -all  of  which  they  eagerly  took,-assuring  them  that  we  were 
h-iends;  but  they  still  continued  warning  us  off,  and  threatening  us 
with   their   long   spears.      I   am   rather  inclined  now   to   think   our 
interpreter  was  partly  the  cause  of  my  not  succeeding  in  overcoming 
their  fears  and  scruples.     John  Sac  was  truly  a  savage,  although  he 
had  imbibed  some  feelings  of  discipline,  and  was  generally  a  well- 
disposed  fellow.     He  was  a  petty  New  Zealand  chief  at  the  Bay  of 
Islands  and  had  resided  some  time  at  Tahiti,  where  he  said  he  was 
married.     At  times  it  was  difficult  to  control  John's  movements.     On 
this  occasion  he  soon  became  provoked  at  the  chief's  obstinacy;  and 
the  Idea  of  their  receiving  all  our  presents  so  greedily  without  even 
thanks  m  return,  excited  his  native  fire;  his  eyes  shone  fiercely,  ar.d 
his  whole  frame  seemed  agitated.    Half  naked  as  he  was,  his  tattooing 
conspicuous,  he  stood  in  the  bow  of  the  boat  brandishing  his  boat-hook 
like  a  spear  with  the  dexterity  of  a  savage.     It  was  difficult  to  re- 
cognise the  sailor  in  the  fierce  majestic-looking  warrior   before   us. 
1  he  chief  and  John  kept  passing  words  until  both  were  becoming 
vociferous,  the  one  appearing  as  savage  as  the  other.    John's  animated 
attitudes  and  gestures  were  the  admiration  of  all.     As  we  could  not 
understand  him.  he  may  have  said  many  tilings  to  irritate  the  sava-e 
chief  before  he  could  be  silenced,  although  he  afterwards  declared  his 
innocence  in  that  respect.     I  had  been  engaged  for  upwards  of  an 
hour  endeavouring  to  overcome  their  fears,  when  I  was  joined  by 
several  boats  from  the  other  vessels.     The  officers  being  anxious  to 
five  communication  with  the  natives,  were  desirous  of  landin-.  and  I 
readily  gave  them  permission  to  do  so  without  arms.     They  p°assed  a 
short  distance  from  us.  hoping  to  effect  their  purpose  without  oppo- 
sition, but  the  natives  separated,  in  order  to  oppose  any  landincr     One 
or  two  officers  swam  through  the  surf  without  arms,  and  were  boldly 
set  upon  by  three  of  the  natives,  when  they  made  a  hu.ried  retreat. 
This  evidently  gave  the  natives  confidence,  and  their  conduct  became 
nnore   violent.      Mr.   Couthouy  requested    permission    to    land   with 
presents,  under   the  protection  of  the  boat,  to  which  I  consented. 
He  swam  on  shore,  pausing  now  and  then,  for  the  purpose  of  showii,.. 
the  trinkets.     The  chief  motioned  him  awav,  but  he  landed  on  the 
rocks.     The  chief,  retiring,  appeared  as  if  somewhat  alarmed,  while 
Mr.  Couthouy  advanced  towards  him.  holding  out  the  presents.     On 
being  joined  by  another  native,  the  chief  stopped,  raised  his  spear, 

VOL.  1.  2B  40 


814 


PAUMOTU    GROUP. 


and  with  a  shout  and  distortion  of  counteuancu,  iimdo  u  pass  at  Mr. 
('outhouy,  who  at  once  dropped  looiiing-glasses,  trinkets,  &c,,  at  his 
feet,  and  quickly  made  for  the  boat.  Tlie  savage  took  no  notice  of 
the  relinquished  ollerings,  but  advanced  to  attack  him  with  his  spear. 
When  he  had  reached  the  edge  of  the  surf,  the  chief  made  another 
thrust  at  him,  but  fortunately  without  injury.  This  precipitate  retreat 
gave  them  still  more  confidence ;  they  now  began  throwing  pieces  of 
coral,  numbers  of  which  struck  the  men  in  my  boat.  I  felt  no  dispo- 
sition to  do  them  harm,  and  yet  I  had  no  idea  of  letting  them  see  and 
feel  that  they  had  driven  us  off  without  landing,  well  knowing,  how- 
ever, if  a  forcible  landing  took  place,  and  they  made  resistance,  that 
injui^  would  befall  one  side,  and  probably  both.  I,  therefore,  thinking 
that  they  had  no  idea  of  fire-arms,  ordered  several  blank  cartridges  to 
be  fired ;  but  they  took  no  notice  of  them.*  According  to  John  Sac, 
they  hooted  at  these  arms,  calling  us  cowards,  and  daring  us  to  come 
on  shore.  I  then  fired  a  small  charge  of  mustard-seed  shot  at  their 
legs,  which  did  not  produce  any  efl'ect.  Then,  Mr.  Peale,  who  was 
near  by  me,  was  requested  to  draw  his  ball,  and  load  with  mustard- 
seed,  which  he  did ;  and  Lieutenant  North  likewise  fired,  which  caused 
the  chief  and  all  the  rest  to  retreat,  rubbing  their  legs.  The  oflicers 
were  now  permitted  to  land,  under  strict  injunctions,  in  order  to  avoid 
all  contact  with  the  natives,  not  to  leave  the  beach.  So  much  time  had 
been  lost  before  I  could  get  the  instrments  safely  on  shore,  that  I  found 
it  too  late  to  make  the  observations  I  desired. 

The  natives  whom  we  saw,  appeared  a  fine  athletic  race,  much 
above  the  ordinary  size.  Their  colour  was  darker  than  that  of  our 
Indians,  but  their  features  resembled  them.  No  tattooing  was  observed 
on  the  men,  and  the  women  were  not  seen  close  enough  to  distinguish 
them.  The  hair  of  the  former  was  long,  black,  and  straight.  The 
chiefs  had  theirs  drawn  back,  and  tied  in  a  knot  behind ;  the  others 
had  theirs  hanging  loose.  They  wore  a  small  maro  made  of  leaves, 
and  the  chiefs  a  pandanus-leaf  around  their  necks,  probably  to  dis- 
tinguish their  rank.  The  women  wore  a  piece  of  tapa  as  a  petticoat; 
they  were  not  oiled,  and  the  heads  of  some  seemed  filled  with  ashes  or 
lime.  They  spoke  and  understood  the  Tahitian  dialect.  The  only 
information  obtained  from  them  was,  that  vessels  had  before  been 
there,  but  had  gone  away  without  landing. 

Immediately  on  their  being  driven  from  the  beach,  a  large  column 
of  smoke  was  seen,  no  doubt  a  signal  to  the  other  inhabitants  of  the 

»  I  have  since  understood,  however,  that  the  poor  natives  have  been  fired  upon  by  trading 
vessels  engaged  in  the  pearl-fisliery,  in  mere  wantonness,  which  will  account  for  theii 
hostile  reception  of  us. 


P  A  U  M  O  T  IJ    O  RO  U  P. 


315 


islnnd.  After  being  on  the  reef  half  nn  hour,  v^e  joineri  our  boats,  and 
returned  on  board  near  sunset.  One  ,-an<.e  ivas  r^.^rtcd,  the  next 
morning,  as  having  been  seen  from  the  Peacock. 

The  number  of  inhabitants  that  we  saw  certainly  did  not  exceed  one 
Hundred  and  twenty. 

The  common  house-fly  was  found  in  great  numbers  at  this  island. 
A  number  offish  were  caught;  some  shells,  and  specimens  of  most  of 
the  plants,  were  also  procured. 

After  lying-to  for  the  night,  wo,  at  daylight  on  the  10th,  bore  away 
for  berle  Island,  having  first  ascertained  our  distance  from  the  point 
of  Clermont  de  Tonnerre  by  triangulation.  We  then  ran  by  the  patent 
log  for  Serle  Island  direct,  by  which  means  we  made  the  distance 
between  the  two  islands,  twcnty-six  miles  and  two-tenths.  No  signs 
of  any  other  island  exist  between  these  two.  This  will,  I  think,  settle 
the  question  between  Dupcrrey  and  Beechey.  The  latter  is  undoubtedly 
wrong  as  respects  the  longitude  of  Clermont  de  Tonnerre,  which  he 
places  some  twenty  minutes  too  far  to  the  eastward,  and  I  doubt  not  some 
accidental  error  has  occurred  in  his  observations;  for  I  find,  at  Serle 
Island,  Duperrey,  Beechey,  and  myself,  agree  within  a  few  minutes. 

Serle  is  a  low  coral  island,  and  has  a  large  and  very  regular  clump 
of  trees  on  its  western  end,  which  at  a  distance  might  be  taken  for  a 
mound  or  hill.  Its  length  is  seven  miles,  and  its  width  one  and  a 
fourth.  It  lies  in  a  northwest  and  southeast  direction.  There  are  but 
few  inhabitants  on  it.  The  position  of  its  southeast  end  is  in  latitude 
18°  21'  10"  S.,  longitude  137°  04'  10"  W. 

The  vessels  again  separated  for  its  survey  ;*  boats  were  sent  to  trace 
the  reef,  and  have  communication  with  the  natives,  if  possible.  Before 
night  we  had  completed  our  survey,  and  the  boats  returned.  Lieu- 
tenant  Alden,  in  charge  of  one  of  them,  reported  that  he  had  had 
communication  with  the  natives,  who  were  very  friendly  and  desirous 
of  holding  intercourse  with  him.  He  obtained  several  articles  of 
curiosity  from  them.  Some  of  them  were  tattooed.  Thoy  were  found 
to  be  arrant  thieves,  wishing  to  carry  ofi'  every  thing  thoy  saw,  trying 
even  to  pull  the  copper  ofl'  the  blades  of  the  oars,— and  all  this  a'ppa"'- 
rently  without  any  idea  that  it  was  wrong.  When  first  seen  they 
were  armed  with  spears,  but  observing  that  we  did  not  attempt  to 
land,  they  sent  them  away  in  charge  of  a  boy,  and  swam  ofT  to  the 
boat. 

I  now  determined  to  wait  until  the  next  day,  for  the  purpose  of 
having  further  communication  with  them,  and  ordered  every  thing  ta 

•  For  the  mode  of  making  the  Burveys  of  the  Coral  Islands,  see  Appendii  XLI. 


310 


P  A  r  M  O  T  U    0  R  O  I'  P. 


be  prepared  for  an  early  hinding ;  hut  during  the  night,  tho  ofTiccr  of 
the  deck  of  the  Porpoise  (Acting  Master  Sinclair)  ran  into  tho  Vin- 
ccnncs,  and  did  botli  vessels  some  injury,  smashing  the  starboard 
quarter  boat,  which  broke  adrift,  cutting  off  our  backstays,  and  losing 
some  of  the  head-spars  of  tho  Porpoise.  By  this  accident  wo  lost  our 
position,  and  in  the  morning  found  ourselves  so  far  to  the  leeward, 
that  I  knew  it  must  occupy  much  time — which  we  could  not  afford  to 
lose— before  we  could  regain  tho  island.  I  therefore  reluctantly  bore 
away  to  the  northward,  to  pass  over  tho  localities  of  one  or  two  doubt- 
ful islands,  on  our  way  to  that  of  Ilondcn. 

On  tho  19th  of  August  we  made  Ilenuakc,  Honden,  or  Dog  Island, 
and  came  up  with  it  about  noon.  The  boats  were  at  once  despatched, 
in  order  to  ascertain  if  a  landing  could  be  effected,  and  the  ships  began 
tho  surveying  operations.  The  surf  was  found  very  heavy  on  the 
beach,  but  the  boats  notwithstanding  succeeded  in  landing.  The 
nundjer  of  birds  seen  hovering  over  the  island  was  an  indication  that 
it  was  not  inhabited,  which  proved  to  bo  the  case.  Several  turtles 
were  caught,  and  a  number  of  specimens  obtained.  The  survey  of  the 
island  not  having  been  completed,  I  lay  by  all  night,  and  early  in  the 
morning  despatched  boats  to  complete  the  examination  of  it,  and  to 
effect  a  landing.  The  greatest  part  of  the  day  was  spent  on  tho  island. 
Near  the  place  where  we  landed,  there  has  been  a  channel  to  the  small 
lagoon  in  the  centre  of  the  island,  and  there  is  another  of  a  similar 
character  on  the  opposite  side.  They  were  both  dry,  and  the  sca- 
watcr  can  only  communicate  with  the  lagoon  at  very  high  tides. 
From  our  observations  of  the  day,  the  usual  neap  tide  is  three  and  a 
half  feet,  and  it  would  give  high  water  at  full  and  change  of  the  moon, 
at  2  p. 


M. 


SECTION  OF  CORAL  ISLAND. 


There  are  many  blocks  of  compact  coral,  just  at  high-water  mark, 
quite  black  on  the  outside,  but  on  fracture  they  showed  the  white  coral. 
The  white  coral  shelf  over  which  tho  sea  flows  at  high  water  was  two 
hundred  feet  broad,  the  low  water  falling  two  feet  below  its  surface; 
it  is  quite  level,  but  there  are  many  holes  and  large  longitudinal  cracks 
in  it.     On  this  lies  the  compact  coral  above  spoken  of,  extending 


PAUMOTU    aROUP. 


317 


beneath  tlio  rornl  sand.  It  is  about  ton  or  twolvofoot  wide.  Thecornl- 
sand  bench  above  the  compact  layer  has  eight  feet  pcrpendicuhir  rise. 
and  Hes  at  an  angle  of  <n°.  On  the  top  of  this  arc  small  pieces  of  coral, 
which  have  been  thrown  up  by  the  sea,  around  the  roots  of  trees  and 
shrubs,  growing  to  the  height  of  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet.  We  found 
the  water  in  the  lagoon  quite  salt,  and  very  w.irm.  Its  bottom  for  a 
long  distance  was  filled  with  a  fine  deposit  of  calcareous  mud,  about 
six  inches  in  depth.  The  water  had  a|>parontly  evaporated  from  the 
lagoon,  and  to  the  taste  was  much  sailer  tlian  the  ocean.  Purslane 
(Portulaca)  was  found  growing  in  a  thrifty  state  in  this  deposit. 
Where  the  lagoon  was  deeper,  some  fine  specimens  of  corals  were 
observed  and  obtained.  No  V;aces  of  inhabitants  wore  perceived  on 
this  island.  The  state  of  nature  in  which  the  birds  were  found,  and 
other  indications,  gave  proof  thai  it  had  not  beeri  inhabited,  at  least  for 
some  lime.  There  were  a  great  many  sharks,  both  in  the  lagoon  and 
outside,  w  liich  were  so  ravenous  that  they  bit  at  the  oars.  It  was  by 
no  means  pleasant  to  have  to  swim  through  the  surf  to  the  boat  with 
these  dangerous  animals  so  numerous  around  us. 

The  landing  on  a  coral  island  eflcctually  does  away  with  all  pre- 
conceived notions  of  its  beauty,  and  any  previous  ideas  formed  in  its 
favour  are  immediately  put  to  flight.  Thai  verdure  which  seemed  from 
a  distant  view  to  carpet  the  whole  island,  was  in  reality  but  a  few 
patches  of  wiry  grass,  obstructing  the  walking,  and  offering  neither 
fruit  nor  flowers  to  view ;  it  grew  among  the  rugged  coral  debris,  with 
a  little  sand  and  vegetable  earth. 

The  principal  trees  and  shrubs  are  the  Pandanus,  Boerbaavia,  and 
Pisonia.  It  is  somewhat  surjirising  that  a  few  trees  forty  or  fifty  feet 
high  should  have  found  sufficient  soil  to  protect  their  growth.  Most 
of  the  trees,  however,  are  of  stunted  size,  being  not  more  than  ten  to 
fifteen  feel  in  height,  and  eighteen  inches  in  diameter. 

Van  Schouten  and  Le  ^aire  visited  this  island,  10th  April,  1016, 
some  two  hundred  years  before,  and  it  was  even  then  clothed  with 
vegetation.  If  their  description  is  an  accurate  one,  the  island  appears 
now  to  be  rather  higher,  as  they  report  "  from  what  they  could  judge, 
the  greater  part  of  the  island  is  overflowed  at  high  water ;"  this  is  cer- 
tainly not  the  case  now.  The  centre  of  ihe  island  is  in  latitude  14°  55' 
40"  S.,  longitude  138°  47'  30"  W. 

The  number  of  birds  on  the  island  was  incredible,  and  they  were  so 
tame  as  to  require  to  be  pushed  off  their  nests  to  gel  their  eggs.  The 
most  conspicuous  among  ihem  was  the  frigate-bird  (Tachypelis 
aquilus) ;  many  of  Ihe  trees  were  covered  with  iheir  ncsls,  constructed 
of  a  few  slicks.    The  old  birds  were  seen,  as  Ihey  flew  off,  inflating 

2B2 


318 


PAUMOTU    GROUP. 


their  blood-jod  pouches  to  the  size  of  a  child's  head,  and  looking  as  if 
a  large  bladder  were  attached  to  their  necks.  The  gannets,  sooty 
terns,  and  the  beautiful  tropic-bird,  were  in  countless  numbers;  the 
former  guarding  their  eggs,  (which  were  laid  on  the  ground  without  a 
nest,)  with  care,  remaining  by  them,  and  even  suffering  themselves  to 
be  captured  without  resistance.  Their  hoarse  croaking  was  quite 
deafening. 

Some  droll  sights  were  seen  of  crabs  walking  off  with  snakes,  and 
both  again  seized  by  some  stout  bird  and  borne  away.  Armies  of 
soldier  or  piratical  crabs  (Paguri)  were  seen  moving  in  all  directions 
with  their  shells.  We  enjoyed  ourselves  r  rach,  and  found  no  use  for 
our  guns,  powder,  and  shot ;  as  many  specimens  as  we  could  desire 
were  taken  with  the  hand,  both  old  and  young.  In  some  cases  the 
tropic-birds  were  taken  off  their  nests,  and  from  others  their  eggs  were 
taken  without  disturbing  them ;  indeed,  I  have  never  seen  any  barn- 
yard fowls  half  so  tame. 

The  various  snakes,  the  many-coloured  fisli,  the  great  eels,  enor- 
mous and  voracious  sharks,  shells,  large  molluscs,  spiders,  with  the 
curious  lepidoptera,  seemed  to  have  quiet  possession,  their  webs 
stretching  in  every  direction,  and  occasioning  us  much  annoyance : 
all  gave  a  novelty  to  the  scene,  that  highly  interested  and  delighted  us. 
In  the  afternoon  we  returned  on  board,  loaded  with  specimens ;  and 
the  survey  being  completed,  we  bore  away  on  our  course. 

There  are  no  cocoa-nut  palms  on  the  island,  as  has  been  reported 
by  Captain  Pitzroy,  in  his  voyage ;  nor  is  there  any  fresh  water  to  be 
found.  Some  of  our  gentlemen  saw  on  the  beach  some  broken  oars 
and  remains  of  a  boat,  but  nothing  could  be  identified. 

Pandanus  trees  exist  on  the  south  side. 

On  the  23d  of  August  we  made  the  Disappointment  Islands  of 
Byron :  they  are  two  in  number,  called  Wytoohee  and  Otooho.  On 
the  same  day,  I  was  informed  by  Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold, 
of  the  Porpoise,  that  George  Reynolds,  ordinary  seaman,  had  d^ed  of 
chronic  pneumonia ;  the  chaplain  went  on  board  in  the  afternoon,  and 
performed  the  last  offices. 

On  the  morning  of  the  24th  we  were  off  the  northwest  end  of  the 
island  of  Wytoohee,  which  lies  in  latitude  14°  09'  30"  S.,  longitude 
141°  17'  50"  W.  Many  canoes  came  off  to  the  ship :  as  they  ap 
proached  the  vessels,  the  natives  were  heard,  while  at  some  distance, 
singing  ;  and,  as  they  drew  near,  the  clamour  increased,  accompanied 
with  much  laughing,  and  many  gesticulations ;  but  none  of  them  could 
be  induced  to  come  on  board,  and  they  were  not  willing  to  part  with 
any  thing  but  some  pieces  of  old  matting.     An  attempt  was  made  to 


PAUMOTU    GROUP. 


810 


I 


get  some  of  their  paddles,  but  they  rather  ridiculed  the  idea  of  parting 


vith  them. 


CANOE  OP  wvtooheb:. 

Ion?'  Thr'  "'"'"  f'"  '"''"'  ^'"^  ""'^^  ^'"^  ^"«'^«  '-  fifteen  feet 
bng  They  generally  contained  two  and  sometimes  three  natives 
Each  canoe  had  an  out-rigger,  and  a  projecting  point,  both  before  Ind 
behmd,  by  which  they  get  into  them  from  the  water.    They  are  formed 

lm"'Vh  ""IT  ""'  ""''  ^^^^^'"••-  T"^  P---  «an  carry 
them.     Their  paddles  were  curved  backwards 

In  order  to  dispel  their  fears,  articles  were  given  them  gratuitously 
and  by  way  of  showing  their  gratitude,  they  began  a  monotonous' 
song  or  chaiint  They  would  occasionally  stop,  look  up.  and  re  urn 
llX'oftler  '''  ^^"'  ^PP--%  enjoying  the  sport  as 


NATIVE  OF  WYTOOHEK. 


These  natives  are  peculiar,  and  appeared  totally  distinct  from  any 
others  we  met  with  in  this  group,  having  strong  wiry  beards  and 
mustaches,  and  a  different  physiognomy.  The  portrait  by  Mr.  Dray- 
ton, gives  a  very  correct  idea  of  them. 

I  sent  one  of  the  boats  to  the  shore,  with  the  interpreter,  under 
Lieutenant  Case,  but  they  refused  to  allow  them  to  land.    No  actual 


320 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


violence  was  attempted,  but  Lieutenant  Case  reported  tlie  impractica- 
bility of  landing  without  opposition,  and  injury  to  themselves  and 
natives.  They  received  several  presents,  but  they  had  no  fruit  to  give 
in  return,  as  their  cocoa-nuts  were  tabooed.  They  gave,  in  exchange, 
some  articles,  consisting  of  cloth,  fish-hooks,  adzes,  and  pearl-shells. 
Among  the  articles  seen  in  their  possession,  was  a  fine  silk  pocket- 
handkerchief,  showing  that  they  had  had  communication  not  long  since 
with  vessels.  They  refused  to  part  with  their  spears  or  clubs.  Their 
adzes  were  rudely  made,  but  ground  very  sharp ;  they  were  formed  of 
the  tridachna  or  cassis  shell,  lashed  on  a  handle  somewhat  resembling 
our  adze-handles.     Knives  were  also  observed  in  their  possession. 

The  remainder  of  the  day  was  employed  in  surveying  the  island, 
which  not  being  finished  by  night,  we  lay-to  in  order  to  complete  it  the 
next  day.  On  the  25th,  the  Peacock  and  Porpoise  were  ordered  on 
one  side  of  the  island,  the  Vincennes  and  tender  on  the  other.  Boats 
were  lowered  to  effect  a  landing  if  possible,  and  trace  the  shores. 

Wytoohee  is  formed  of  islets  connected  by  a  washed  coral  reef,  of 
irregular  shape,  with  a  lagoon  having  many  knolls  in  it,  of  various 
size.",  some  four  or  five  feet  above  the  surface.  ,  The  southeast  portion 
is  the  largest  and  most  thickly  wooded,  and  contains  the  greatest 
number  of  inhabitants. 

After  the  surveying  duties  were  over,  we  found  ourselves  at  the 
northwest  point  of  the  island.  The  natives  who  had  refused  to  allow 
us  to  land,  wei-e  now  seen  waving  green  boughs,  which  is  the  general 
sign  of  good-will,  and  a  desire  to  have  communication,  and  many 
were  seen  dancing  on  the  beach,  with  their  spears  in  their  hands.  I 
gave  orders  to  send  the  boats  to  the  shore,  but  on  reaching  it  we 
found  them  still  averse  to  our  landing ;  they,  however,  assisted  Mr. 
Couthouy  through  the  surf  to  the  beach  ;  but  when  he  had  reached  it, 
they  surrounded  him,  and  led  him  back  very  gently  to  the  water, 
making  him  distinctly  understand  that  they  would  not  permit  him  to 
visit  their  huts.  They  were  extremely  desirous  of  obtaining  buttons, 
pieces  of  iron,  and  cloth.  We  gave  them  several  small  articles,  but 
they  could  not  be  persuaded  to  part  with  their  spears  and  clubs.  The 
chief,  who  was  a  very  old  man,  was  seen  lying  under  a  Pandanus 
tree,  close  to  the  beach,  and  on  being  told  I  wished  to  see  him,  and 
make  him  a  present,  he  arose ;  his  hair  was  quite  gray,  and  he  had  a 
long  and  stiff  white  beard ;  his  legs  were  enlarged  with  the  elephan- 
tiasis, the  swelling  being  of  a  white  colour,  and  so  large  and  regular 
that  many  thought  he  had  on  sailor's  trousers.  About  twenty  natives 
were  with  him  on  the  beach.  After  being  shown  the  presents  I  had  for 
him,  he  was  induced  to  wade  into  the  water  up  to  his  neck  to  receive 


them.     C 

until  he 

must  con 

person. 

amused  i 

manner  c 

making  a 

he  at  one 

his  shoulc 

They  u 

Korokoa, 

sixty  yeai 

His  bn 

This  man 

and  narrc 

eye.      Hi; 

lower  par 

ably  fine-1 

been  hid. 

seen  befor 

curly.     A] 

were  stroi 

nance;  the 

The  boa 

the  island, 

having  the 

surf.    Soin 

them  mak 

seemed  qu 

showed  thi 

were  reass 

when  two 

their  headi 

hai  "s,  and 

(for  it  coul 

them  were 

Tney  ap 

amazement 

of  the  rcali 

trifling  pros 

heard  on  th 

the  first  to  i 

VOL.  I. 


PAUMOTU    GROUP. 


321 


them  On  coming  alongside  the  boat,  he  seemed  somewhat  uneasy 
until  he  had  gone  through  the  ceremony  of  rubbing  noses,  which  I 
must  confess  was  any  thing  but  agreeable  with  so  dirty  and  diseased  a 
person  He  was  Atremely  anxious  to  get  hold  of  the  presents,  and 
amused  us  by  at  once  plunging  them  under  the  water,  seemino-  in  no 
manner  concerned  about  keeping  them  dry.  He  was  all  the°  while 
makmg  a  noise  like  the  purring  of  a  cat.  In  return  for  my  presents 
he  at  once  offered  me  the  short  mantle  of  matting  which  he  had  over 
his  shoulders. 

They  understood  the  Tahitian  language.  The  chief  gave  his  name  as 
Korokoa,  and  the  name  of  the  island  as  Wytoohee.  He  appeared  about 
sixty  years  of  age,  and  his  teeth  were  all  sound  and  nood 

His  brother  was  the  priest,  to  whom  I  also  gave  some  presents. 
This  man  had  a  very  remarkable  head,  the  forehead  being  very  hich 
and  narrow  almost  to  deformity,  with  a  dark  and  suspicious  bright' 
eye.     His  hands  were   deformed,  being  destitute  of  joints,  and  The 
lower  part  bent  at  right  angles.     The  son  of  the  chief  was  a  remark- 
ably  fine-lookmg  lad  of  fifteen.     We  saw  no  women,  as  they  had  all 
been  hid.     The  colour  of  these  natives  was  much  darker  than  those 
seen  before ;  in  some  the  hair  was  inclined  to  frizzle,  and  the  beard 
curly.     All  the  grown  men  that  I  saw  had  mustaches;  their  features 
were  strongly  marked  with  a  good-humoured  expression  of  counte- 
nance;  they  w^ore  the  maro,  and  some  had  a  few  feathers  in  their  hair. 
The  boats  of  the  Peacock  succeeded  in  landing  on  the  east  side  of 
the  island,  where  the  coral  reef  shelves  at  about  an  angle  of  10°,  and 
having  the  wind  Wowing  obliquely  on  it,  there  is  comparatively  little 
surf.    Some  half  a  dozen  natives  were  here  seen ;  an  officer  approached 
them  making  signs  of  friendship,  which  they  returned.     At  first  they 
seemed  quite  timid,  meeting  the  advances  made  in  a  manner  which 
showed  that  they  were  anxious  to  propitiate  us,  but  still  fearful.     Thev 
xvere  reassured  of  our  good-will  by  offering  them  some  sukiII  presents, 
vvhen  two  old  men  came  forward,  holding  their  arms  upright  above 
heir  heads,  with  their  hands  open,  and  became  desirous  of  shakin. 
hai  %  and  even  offered  to  rub  noses.     Each  was  armed  with  a  sticL 
(or  It  could  not  be  called  a  spear,)  six  or  seven  feet  long:  on  some  of 

them  were  fastened  the  jaws  of  the  porpoise. 
Tney  appeared  to  be  greatly  astonished,  and  their  looks  bespoke 

amazement  at  our  appearance.   Occasionally,  as  if  to  satisfy  Ihcmselve. 

of  the  reality,  they  would  put  their  hands  on  us.     On  reccivin-^  a  few 
nfling  presents  they  broke  forth  into  the  same  song  or  chaunt  that  was 

heard  on  their  firs:  coming  towards  the  ship.     The  younger  ones  were 

the  first  to  show  confidence,  and  were  much  disposed  to  lauc^h  and  ioke 

VOL.  I.  41  n  J 


322 


PAUMOTU    GROUP. 


with  the  men ;  and  some  of  the  ollicers  thought  they  recognised  those 
who  had  been  in  the  canoes  the  day  before. 


NATIVES  OF  WYTSOIIEE. 


On  our  gentlemen  requesting  to  go  to  their  huts,  they  seemed  to  be 
thrown  into  a  kind  of  stupid  wonderment,  but  'in  being  assured  they 
had  nothing  to  fear,  their  countenances  brightened  up,  and  they  led  the 
way  through  the  wood  to  an  open  space,  surrounded  by  pandanus  and 
cocoa-nut  trees.  These  natives  had  evidently  had  communication  with 
vessels,  but  I  very  much  doubt  if  any  had  landed  before.  They  did  not 
appear  at  all  alarmed  at  the  firing  of  guns,  but  were  much  surpi'ised  to 
see  the  birds  killed,  holding  up  their  hands,  and  making  ejaculations. 
They  had  no  idea  of  the  principles  of  barter,  and  allowed  any  thing  to 
be  taken  without  opposition,  receiving  any  articles  in  return  with 
gratitude  and  delight.  Iron  was  prized  more  than  any  other  thing.  On 
reaching  the  huts,  inquiry  was  made  of  them  for  their  women,  vhen  a 
general  burst  of  laughter  ensued,  and  they  gave  us  to  understand,  that 
they  had  penetrated  our  motive  for  visiting  their  island — "  That  as  we 
inhabited  an  island  without  any  women,  we  wanted  to  have  some."' 
Nothing  more  was  said  to  them  on  the  subject.  They  accompanied  us 
to  the  boats,  and  at  parting  went  through  the  same  ceremonies  of 
rubbing  noses,  shaking  hands,  and  raising  their  arms  with  the  palms 
towards  us.  According  to  the  estimate  I  made  of  the  inhabitants,  the 
number  was  about  ninety.    From  the  great  age  of  the  chiefs,  and  the 


absence 

lived  in 

island  to 

Water  ir 

island,  a; 

rat  was  ^ 

nut,  Brea 

the  shrub 

The  hi 

four  or  fi 

on  which 

mats,  and 

feet  high, 

sun,  and  i 


Their  u 
baskets  we 
natives  se 
island. 

At  nighl 
current  by 
distance  o 
twelve  an( 
knoll.    Thi 
low  as  cor 
current  hac 
much  stror 
tance  to  le( 
could   not 
naturalists 
endeavour 
island  and 
was  finally 
The   natun 


P  A  U  M  O  T  [I    GROUP, 


323 


absence  of  vvonndcl  or  srarrd  individuals,  I  should  conclude  they 
lived  ,n  peace.  TI>oy,  however,  ^rave  their  neighbours  on  the  small 
island  to  the  west  (which  they  called  Ofooho),  a  very  bad  name. 
Water  m  small  cjuantities  is  to  be  had  on  the  eastern  section  of  the 
island,  and  a  httle  biche-de-n.ar  might  be  taken  on  the  reefs.  A  small 
rat  was  very  troublesome  to  the  natives.  This  island  has  some  Cocoa- 
nut,  Bread-fruit,  and  Pandanus  trees;  the  Pisonia,  Tournefortia,  and 
the  shrubs  that  are  common  to  the  low  islands,  also  gro-.v  upon  it 

The  huts  of  the  natives  scan-eiy  deserve  the  name;  they  are  merely 
four  or  five  poles,  with  both  ends  stuck  in  the  ground,  forming  an  arch 
on  which  strips  are  tied,  and  over  these  the  leaves  of  the  cocoa-nut 
mats,  and  grass,  are  laid.  They  are  about  six  or  eight  feet  lon<r.  four 
feet  high,  and  about  five  feet  wide,  barely  sufficient  to  keep  o°ut  the 
sun,  and  entirely  useless  as  a  protection  from  rain. 


jy^ 


NATIVE  HUT. 

Their  utensils  arc  small,  and  seemed  ill  adapted  to  their  use.  Their 
baskets  were  suspended  from  the  tops  of  their  huts  and  from  trees.  The 
natives  seemed  destitute  of  tapa.  No  anchorage  was  found  at  this 
island. 

At  nightfall  the  squadron  was  put  under  short  sail,  supposing  that  the 
current  by  the  morning  would  take  us  to  the  leeward  near  Otooho,  a 
distance  of  ten  miles.      It  lies  west-northwest  of  Wytoohee,  distant 
twelve  and  one-third  miles,  and  is  distinctly  seen  from  it,  like  a  round 
knoll.     Phis  appearance  is  owing  to  the  trees  upon  it,  for  the  land  is  as 
low  as  coral  islands  usually  are.     We  found  by  the  mornin-,  that  the 
current  had  been  about  one  mile  per  hour  to  the  west,  and  therefore 
much  stronger  than  I  anticipated ;  ^ve  were  in  consequence  some  di^-- 
tance  to  leeward  of  the  island.     With  the  light  wind,  I  knew  the  ship 
could   not   reach   it   before   the   afternoon.     I    immediately  sent  the 
naturalists   on  board   the  tender  Flying-Fish,   and    gave  ^orders    to 
endeavour  to   land   them    if  possible,   aurt    then  to  pass  around  the 
island  and  survey  if,  which  could  not  be  accomplished.     The  survey 
was  finally  completed  by  the  boats  of  the  Vincennes  and  Peacock. 
The   naturalists  endeavoured  to  effect  a  landing,  but  were   opposed 


324 


P  A  U  M  O  T  U    GROUP. 


by  some  dozen  natives,  who  \vere  icsulnte  in  preventing  iliciii  from 
going  beyond  tlie  water's  edge ;  in  oilier  respects,  they  were  disposed 
to  be  quite  friendly. 

I'he  chief  was  an  old  man,  and  was  induced  to  venture  ofl'  towards 
tlic  bout.  One  of  the  gentleman  swam  to  tho^e  on  shore ;  his  reco|)- 
tion  was  similar  to  that  met  with  at  the  other  islands:  rubbing  noses, 
kissing,  and  shaking  of  liands.  Whenever  he  attempted  to  lay  his 
hands  on  them,  vh»''  ■.•i';.-tert  lnu-V,  but  were  continually  pawing  and 
whining  over  bin  a  kind  of  purring  noise,  not  unlike  that  by 

which  we  propitiati  ^oothc  the  feelings  or  doubtful  temper  of  some 
beast.  They  presented  them  with  n^.ats  made  of  the  pandanus-Ieaf,  and 
also  pieces  of  worn-out  tapa,  in  return  for  many  articles  received,  but 
would  not  sufl'er  our  people  to  put  their  feet  upon  dry  ground,  and 
when  it  was  attempted,  kept  shoving  them  gently  into  the  water. 

The  naturalists  in  the  afternoon  endeavoured  to  eflect  a  landing  at 
another  place,  out  of  sight  of  the  natives,  and  succeeded.  Mr.  Brack- 
enridgc,  on  landing  the  second  time,  ran  to  the  thicket,  in  order  to 
lose  no  time  in  making  collections,  and  was  employed  in  gathering 
specimens,  when  two  stout  natives  came  running  up,  and  made  him 
understand,  by  very  intelligible  signs,  that  he  must  return  to  the  boat ; 
he  pretended  not  to  understand  thorn,  and  endeavoured  to  proceed, 
but  they  went  before  him,  and  crossed  their  clubs,  determined  that  he 
should  go  no  farther.  This  caused  him  to  laugh,  in  which  the  two 
natives  joined.  Finding  there  was  no  alternative,  he  took  an  oblique 
direction  towards  the  boat,  hoping  by  this  means  to  enlarge  his  collec- 
tion, which  he  succeeded  in  doing,  while  the  natives,  as  he  describes 
it,  shouldered  him  out  of  the  bush,  and  then  towards  the  boat.  The 
rest  of  the  party  having  gone  up  to  the  huts,  were  at  once  seized  and 
shoved  down  towards  the  1  lat,  and  into  the  surf,  where  they  presented 
rather  a  ludicrous  appearan  •,  with  the  danger  of  drowning  on  the  one 
side,  and  the  natives  on  the  other,  who  had  them  completely  in  their 
power,  as  they  had  neither  arms  nor  any  other  means  of  defence. 
No  harm,  however,  was  done  them,  but  the  alarm  incident  to  being 
threatened  with  spears.  The  only  mishap  met  with  was  the  loss,  by 
one  of  the  gentlemen,  of  a  pair  of  spectacles,  and  a  bruise  or  two  from 
the  coral,  in  their  hurried  retreat.  As  the  surf  \\  us  heavy,  life-preservers 
were  sent  to  those  who  could  not  swim;  and  after  much  detention, 
they  reached  the  boat  in  safety.  Had  such  a  circumstance  occurred 
at  Clermont  de  Tonnerre,  I  am  satisfied  that  most  serious  consequences 
would  have  resulted  to  us. 

The  superficial  extent  of  the  island  of  Otooho  is  about  a  square 
mile;  it  has  no  lagoon,  is  well  covered  with  trees,  and  has  fresh  water 


Tdere  we 
atout  fiftj 

At  all 
common 
perceived, 
has  been  ( 

The  hu 
neighbour 

About  1 
again  on  1 
been  infer 
bourhood, 
charts,  I  d 
bore  awaj 

On  the 
taifled  tha 
circular  f 
lagoon  of 
tude  IU° 
masthead 
we  landec 
spent  the  i 
every  indi 
pearl-fishc 
oyster.    V 
near  its  If 
of  plants 
history  w( 
reader  is  r 

This  isl; 
to  be  prod 
heaps,  no  ( 

The  ma 
the  island  ' 
narrow  re( 
the  sea  ree 
northeast  ( 
island  is  t 
mu<     deca 

In  the  r 
made  it. 
northward 


PAtlMOTT    (JROUP. 


895 


I 
I: 


k 


k    i 


Tdere  were  nineteen  men  counttiii.  vvliich  vvonlti  make  the  population 
at  out  fifty  souls.     No  women  or  children  were  seen. 

At  all  the  inhabited  isliiiuls  we  found  the  greatest  numbers  of  the 
(common  house  lly:  while  at  Ilonden  Island  {uninhabited)  none  were 
perceived.  No  one  can  estimate  the  annoyance  they  cause,  until  it 
has  been  experienced. 

The  huts  of  the  natives  of  Otooho  are  diflerent  from  those  of  the 
neighbouring  island,  but  quite  as  rude. 

About  three  quarters  of  an  hour  after  sunset,  the  naturalists  were 
again  on  board,  and  we  bore  away  on  our  course  to  Raraka.  Having 
been  informed  that  several  islands  were  supposed  to  be  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood, that  were  known  to  the  natives,  but  not  laid  down  on  the 
charts,  I  determined  to  lie-to  during  the  night.  At  daylight  we  again 
bore  away,  spreading  the  squadron  in  open  order  of  sailing. 

On  the  29th,  at  daylight,  land  was  reported,  and  we  soon  ascer- 
tained that  it  was  not  laid  down  on  the  charts.  It  is  low,  nearly  of  a 
circular  form,  and  well  covered  with  trees  and  shrubs,  and  has  a 
lagoon  of  some  extent.  Its  centre  is  in  latitude  15°  42'  25"  S.,  longi- 
tude 114°  38'  45"  W.  I  named  it  King's  Island,  after  the  man  at  the 
masthead  who  first  discovered  it.  After  completing  the  survey  of  it, 
we  landed  on  its  lee  side,  where  the  water  was  quite  smooth,  and 
spent  the  afternoon  in  examining  it.  There  were  no  natives  on  it,  but 
•jvery  indication  that  it  had  been  inhabited  recently  by  a  party  of 
pearl-fishers.  The  lagoon  appeared  to  be  well  supplied  with  the  pearl 
oyster.  We  found  on  the  island  two  small  springs  of  fresh  water, 
near  its  lagoon,  and  a  good  supply  of  cocoa-nuts.  Many  specimens 
of  plants  were  obtained,  and  several  interesting  objects  of  natural 
history  were  added  to  our  collections ;  for  an  account  of  these,  the 
reader  is  referred  to  the  reports  of  the  naturalists. 

This  island  had  more  soil  on  it  than  any  yet  met  with,  and  seemed 
to  be  productive.  Large  (|uantities  of  cocoa-nuts  were  lying  about  in 
heaps,  no  doubt  gathered  by  those  who  had  visited  it  before  us. 

The  magnetic  observations  were  also  made  here.  The  width  of 
the  island  to  the  lagoon  was  found  to  be  twelve  hundred  feet.  A  very 
narrow  reef  surrounded  it,  and  the  whole  island  wa';  but  six  feet  above 
the  sea  reef.  No  coral  blocks  were  seen.  It  lies  twenty  miles  to  the 
northeast  of  Raraka.  There  is  no  opening  to  the  lagoon,  and  the 
island  is  thickly  wooded  all  round.  An  old  canoe  was  found,  very 
mui     decayed  and  broken,  and  the  remains  of  a  hut  on  the  beach. 

In  the  morning  wc  bore  away  for  Raraka,  and  shortly  afterwards 
made  it.  As  we  approached  it,  another  island  was  discovered,  to  the 
northward  and  westward,  which  was  not  laid  down  on  any  charts. 


886 


PAUMOTU    GROUP. 


On  Raraka  we  soon  discovered  a  party  of  natives,  near  the  entrance 
to  the  lagoon,  waving  a  Tahitian  flag,  three  horizontal  stripes,  red, 
white,  and  red.  They  wore  partly  dressed,  some  in  shirts,  without 
hats,  others  with  vests,  and  others  again  with  trousers  of  all  colours. 
I  joined  the  schooner,  stood  in  for  the  mouth  of  the  lagoon,  and  landed. 

Nothing  could  be  more  striking  than  the  did'erencc  that  prevailed 
between  these  natives  and  those  of  the  Disappointment  Islands,  wliicli 
we  had  just  left.  The  half-civilization  of  the  natives  of  Raraka  was 
very  arkcd,  and  it  appeared  as  though  wo  had  issued  out  of  darkness 
into  light.  They  showed  a  modest  disposition,  and  gave  us  a  hearty 
welcome.  We  were  not  long  at  a  loss  as  to  what  to  ascribe  it ;  the 
missionary  had  been  at  work  here,  and  his  exertions  had  been  based 
upon  a  firm  foundation  ;  the  savage  had  been  changed  to  a  reasonable 
creature.  Among  the  inhabitants  was  a  native  missionary,  who  had 
been  instrumental  in  this  work.  If  the  missionaries  had  effected 
nothing  else,  they  would  deserve  the  thanks  of  all  those  who  roam 
over  this  wide  expanse  of  ocean,  and  incur  its  many  unknown  ai.J 
hidden  dangers.  Here  all  shipwrecked  mariners  would  be  sure  of 
kind  treatment,  and  a  share  of  the  few  comforts  these  people  possess. 
No  savage  mistrust  and  fear  were  seen  here.  The  women  and 
children  came  about  us,  receiving  our  trifles.  They  showed  much 
joy  and  curiosity  at  the  sight  of  us,  and  were  eager  to  supply  oui 
wants.  The  chief  was  an  old  man,  much  tattooed  about  the  breast 
and  arms,  which  gave  him  the  appearance  of  a  blue  and  brown 
checker-board;  others  had  large  rosettes  on  their  legs,  and  horizontal 
bands  on  the  back,  passing  a  considerable  distance  on  each  side  of  the 
spine,  elaborately  executed  in  various  patterns. 

This  is  believed  to  be  the  tattooing 
peculiar  to  the  inhabitants  of  Anaa  or 
Chain  Island.  They  frequent  the  dif- 
ferent islands  of  the  group,  and  are 
generally  employed  by  those  engaged 
in  the  shell-fishery. 

I  was  particularly  struck  with  the 
modest  and  quiet  behaviour  of  the  native  missionary,  who  was  a 
Tahitian.  He  kept  himself  aloof,  whilst  all  the  others  were  crowding 
round  to  partake  in  the  presents  we  were  distributing,  and  seemed 
much  gratified  and  astonished  when  I  selected  him  out  as  the  recipient 
of  a  present  similar  to  the  one  I  had  given  the  chief. 

All  the  males'  heads  were  shaven,  somewhat  after  the  fashion  of  a 
Dominican  friar.  This  practice  is  said  to  have  been  adopted  by  the 
missionaries  at  Tahiti,  for  the  sake  of  cleanliness,  and  also  to  dis- 


TATTOOING. 


PAUMOTU   GROUP. 


327 


tinguish  tho  Christian  from  the  heathen  party.  The  women  have 
theirs  cut  close,  and  some  arc  clothed  in  a  pareu,  consisting  of  three 
or  four  yards  of  cotton,  others  in  a  loose  gown.  They  were  any  thing 
but  good-looking ;  but  the  men  were  tall  and  well  made.  The  variety 
of  apparel  was  droll  enough.  As  for  the  children,  I  have  seldom  seen 
finer ;  all  were  well  formed,  and  as  cheerful  as  they  could  be.  They 
were  for  the  most  part  naked.  About  two  hundred  inhabitants  were 
counted  on  the  island,  most  of  whom  belonged  to  Tahiti  and  Anaa,  or 
Chain  Island,  and  were  here  on  a  shelling  voyage.  They  had  arrived 
hi  two  double  canoes,  such  as  are  used  in  navigating  from  island  to 
island ;  they  were  now  drawn  up  on  the  beach.  These  vessels  were 
apparently  well  taken  care  of,  and  in  this  situation  we  had  a  good 
opportunity  of  examining  them.  The  annexed  is  a  faithful  rcpresen- 
taiion  of  a  double  canoe. 


CANOK  OF  TIIK  PAUMOTU  QROUP. 


They  are  thirty-five  feet  long  and  four  and  a  half  feet  wide,  con- 
nected together  by  a  strong  framework,  on  which  is  placed  a  deck, 
and  a  temporary  hut  is  erected  on  their  voyages.  Every  part  is  neatly 
I)ut  together,  and  well  secured  with  twine  and  sennit  made  of  cocoa- 
nut  fibres  ;  no  iron  or  metal  of  any  kind  is  used  in  their  construction ; 
they  have  two  masts,  supported  by  vines  in  place  of  ropes,  and  are 
enabled  to  spread  large  mat  sails ;  they  steer  with  a  large  oar.  After 
examining  them,  one  can  easily  account  for  the  long  voyaf^es  which 
tlie  natives  have  been  sometimes  able  to  accomplish.  They  find  no 
oitficulty  in  navigating  them,  and  are  now  learning  the  use  of  the 
compass,  but  I  am  informed  they  still  prefer  sailing  by  the  stars  and 
sun,  and  seldom  make  any  material  error.  Navigatin-j  as  they  do 
from  island  to  island,  they  have  not  unfrequently  been  overtaken  by 
storms,  and  some  have  been  lost,  while  others  have  taken  refuge  or 


328 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


been  wrecked  upon  otiicr  isliinds,  iiiid  luivc  been  !d)sunl  from  tli(>ir 
own  several  years.  These  gales  they  say  come  from  the  nortluvest 
They  live  here  in  small  huts,  which  are  rather  an  improvement  upon 
those  of  the  islanders  we  had  already  seen;  these  dwellings  are  formed 
of  poles,  with  a  mat  covering,  and  are  carried  with  them  on  their 
voyages. 

Though  scarcely  able  to  protect  them  from  the  weather,  yet  those 
huts  arc  clean,  and  lined  with  mats.  Their  persons  seemed  cleanly 
also,  and  they  showed  a  great  disposition  to  oblige  us.  Some  atten- 
tion was  paid  to  cultivation,  as  was  evinced  in  the  plantation  and  care 
of  their  cocoa-nut  groves,  as  if  wishing  to  provide  for  their  future 
wants.  The  trees  of  the  young  ])lantations  were  all  carefully  staked 
around.  Their  food  consists  of  dried  fish,  somewhat  similar  to  a 
\vliiting,  of  which  they  had  a  good  and  [)lentiful  supply,  and  also  of  the 
masi,  a  preparation  of  the  bread-fruit,  wiiich  they  were  keeping  for 
their  return  voyage. 

This  was  the  first  island  on  which  we  observed  the  dawning  of 
Christianity  and  civilization.  The  native  missionarieSi  although  tliev 
are  yet  ignorant  of  most  of  the  duties  enjoined  men  a  Christian,  still 
do  much  good  in  preparing  the  way.  Many  learn  to  read,  and  some 
even  to  write,  under  their  tuition;  yet  they  iiavc  many  impediments 
thrown  in  the  way  of  their  eflbrts  by  the  introduction  of  spirits  by  the 
whites.  The  old  chief,  and  others,  are  much  addicteii  to  the  use  of  it, 
and  tl^e  vessels  resorting  here  for  the  pearl-fishery  generally  employ 
native  divers,  and  pay  them  for  the  most  part  in  run.  or  whiskey.  We 
found  here  an  Englishman  who  had  belonged  to  i  schooner  engaged 
in  the  pearl-fishery.  lie  told  me  he  had  been  lef  there  sick  by  his 
captain,  and  had  been  kindly  treated  during  his  stay  of  ♦hrec  months 
on  the  island.  I  was  in  hopes  of  obtaining  some  in/irmation  from 
him,  but  he  Knew  little  or  nothing  of  the  language,  r  id  w.vs,  moreover, 
a  stupid  fellow.  I  gave  him  a  passage  to  Tahiti,  whither  he  was 
desirouL"  of  gonig,  in  the  tender. 

Having  some  business  on  board,  I  invited  the  chief  to  go  oft'  with 
me :  he  firs^  inquired  if  all  the  boats  and  men  were  to  stay ;  on  my 
*elling  him  they  were  not,  he  said  he  would  go  on  board  if  I  would 
ako  take  his  wife,  and  her  brother;  to  which  I  consented. 

The  chief  had  lost  one  hand,  which  he  informed  me  had  been 
bitten  ofi'  by  a  shark  whilst  employed  in  diving  for  shells.  We  became 
great  friends,  and  he  thought  it  necessary  to  be  at  my  side  the  whole 
time.  He  was  an  odd  old  man,  and  proved  before  we  left  him  that  he 
had  become  actiuainted  with  some  of  the  vices  of  civilization. 

We  all  embarked,  soon  reached  the  tender,  and  bore  away  for  the 


PAUMOTU    GROUP. 


.'129 


ship,  some  three  or  li.i.r  iMiles  .listant.  The  old  one-handci  chief 
now  cnmo  up  to  me  in  a  very  mysterious  manner,  and  untyin-'  a  i<not 
in  the  tad  of  hi.s  shirt  (which  was  the  only  garment  ho  worc^  besides 
his  maro,)  with  no  small  didiculty,  with  one  hand  and  his  teeth,  drew 
from  It  a  small  dirty  ,  iece  of  linen,  tied  up  as  a  bag;  this  ho  produced 
v/ith  great  form,  and  evidently  expected  to  astonish  me.  The  contents 
proved  to  bo  a  few  small  discoloured  pearls;  these  he  begged  mc  to 
accept,  but  I  declined  to  receive  them.  We  now  reached  the  ship 
and  I  ordered  every  thing  to  be  shown  them.  Their  surprise  was 
very  great.  While  on  board,  Messrs.  iJray'on  and  Agate  succeocU- 1 
in  getting  a  most  accurate  portrait  of  him. 


m 


I'OUTRAIT  OF  THE  ONK-HANDED  CHIEF. 

The  natives  wore  much  amused  with  the  ship,  and  surprised  at  the 
number  of  men  on  board.  Many  small  presents  were  given  them. 
When  they  were  about  taking  their  departure,  the  old  chief  com- 
plamcd  of  being  quite  siok,  and  his  whole  air  and  manner  showed  that 
he  was  much  dissatisfied.  The  reason  could  not  be  imagined.  The 
vessel  had  so  little  motion,  it  was  thought  it  could  not  originate  from 
sea-sickness.  I  therefore  told  the  interpreter  to  inquire  of  him  what 
was  *he  matter.  No  answer  was  gi-  -n  for  some  time,  but  they  con. 
suited  much  among  themselves  in  a  lov/  tone.  The  quesfon  was 
repeated,  when  the  old  chief's  wife  answered,  "  thn:  I  had  not  returned 
the  pres.-nt  that  h;.d  been  oflered  me,  and  that  the  chief  was  not 
pleased.:  for,  according  to  their  customs,  the  oflering  a  present  to  me 
entitled  him  to  receive  one  in  return."  As  very  many  gifts  had  been 
made  him  already,  this  an.used  me  not  a  little.  On  askinrrwhat  it 
was  they  wanted,  they  at  once  signified  whiskey,  which  they  said  was 

VOL.  I.  303  48 


:)30 


PAUMOTU   (J  ROUP. 


nlways  given  Mioin  wlioii  tlioy  went  on  bonrd  ship  j  and  the  chiot 
wanted  some,  for  ho  was  very  sick.  I  arrordingly  ordered  a  bottle 
of  water  with  a  gill  of  whiskey  in  it  to  be  given  thetii,  and  the  moment 
they  smelt  it  their  manner  was  changed;  they  became  all  animation, 
and  left  the  ship  in  great  good  hunionr.  Mr.  Waldrou  presented  them 
with  two  sheep,  of  which  they  appeared  very  prond.  The  brother 
was  ([iiite  an  intelligent  native;  he  drew  for  me  with  a  piece  of  chalk, 
on  the  dock,  with  (considerable  accuracy,  all  the  islands  he  was 
acquainted  with,  giving  their  relative  situations,  and  the  native  names : 
— that  of  the  island  wo  had  scon  the  day  before,  as  Tai-a-ra,  and  the 
one  to  which  I  had  givcm  the  name  of  Viiicennes  Island,  as  Kawalic. 
He  informed  me  of  three  small  islands  to  the  southward  of  Sacken. 
which  were  afterwards  found  by  the  Porpoise,  during  the  cruise  to  this 
group  on  which  I  sent  her  in  1840;  his  knowledge  of  the  western  part 
of  this  group  was  quite  surprising. 

On  the  next  day  we  landed  early,  and  passed  the  whole  of  it  on 
shore,  making  observations.  We  found  this  was  taboo-day,  or  their 
Sabbath,  although  it  was  Saturday  with  us;  nnd  all  the  natives 
seemed  to  be  enjoying  its  ([uiet  and  repose.  Few  of  them  were  to 
be  seen,  and  they  exhibited  but  little  curiosity.  No  persuasion  could 
induce  them  to  employ  themselves  in  getting  fish  and  shells  for  us  on 
this  day.  We  obtained  a  full  set  of  observations  to  determine  the 
position,  and  also  those  for  magnetic  results.  I  place  the  entrance  to 
the  lagoon  of  llaraka  in  longitude  HI"  57'  40"  W.,  latitude  1«°  0(V 
8.5"  S.  The  result  of  our  day's  observations  gave  the  tides,  at  full  and 
change  of  the  moon,  two  o'clock,  and  three  feet  in  height ;  the  shore, 
however,  showed  that  there  were  at  times  very  high  tides.  The  natives 
said,  when  it  was  a  round  moon  they  had  very  hi^h  water. 

The  entrance  to  the  lagoon  is  on  the  north  side  of  the  island,  about 
one-third  of  its  length  from  the  western  end.  It  is  a  narrow  passage, 
but  will  admit  a  siriall  vessel.  The  current  runs  very  strong  out  of 
the  lagoon,  so  much  so,  that  a  boat  cannot  be  pulled  against  it.  The 
water  in  the  entrance  is  from  five  to  eight  fathoms  deep,  but  there  is 
no  advantage  in  entering,  as  the  reef  is  quite  as  steep  within.  A  small 
vessel  may  anchor  on  the  outside,  in  ten  fathoms,  close  to  the  shore. 
This  island  is  nearly  of  the  shape  of  an  equilateral  triangle,  and  its 
southern  and  eastern  sides  are  formed  by  a  submerged  reef  It  is 
fifteen  miles  on  each  side. 

The  chief,  on  our  second  visit,  was  at  first  not  altogether  free  from 
alarm  at  the  sight  of  so  many  persons  on  shore ;  but  each  one  bringing 
himself,  his  wife,  or  people,  some  small  |)resent,soon  reconciled  him  to 
their  presence.      Among  the  sailors  lie  contrived  to  get  some  grog 


I 


P  A  U  M  O  T  IJ    (;  |{  (J  (J  |., 


asi 


« Jctn'  "^  '"'"'''"^' '''''  '"'"'""^"^  '"^'''^  '**  ''""^^ »'»"«'"«' «'"!  •« " 

«e  cue  the  many  s,.o,...nc.us  in  tl.ul  .k.,mrtrnom  of  natural  history 
V  Inch  vvc  ol.an.c.l.  Tl.o  .uuivos  enjoy  tl.o  .sport  a.^a^i„gly.  and t  h 
od  and  young  arc  all  in  «ou.o  way  participators  ir.  it.   nI.' ll.e  n.outh 

«",  w  tl,  a  ci.aunol  loadu.g  to  it,  several  natives  proceed  about  one- 

lurd  o^  a  uule  up  .he  heach  of  the  lagoon,  where  tlLy  enter  the  watr. 

ang.ng  themselves  .n  a  row.  the  tallest  in  the  deepest  water.     Thev 

on  n.ove  along  down  towards  the  pen.  quite  noiselessly  at  iirst.  driving 

shout,     lley  then  contract  then)selves  towards  the  pen,  and  the  lish 
are  seen  jumpn.g  and  dashing  in  all  directions,  as   i     very    nuc 
alanne  ,  untd  they  are  forced  to  enter  the  pen.  which  is  then  Zed 

S'    'Iha   both  Tl'T  """'"'•     ''  ""^  «'"'">'"°"  ^°  -"'-  t'- 
pleasu.e  that  both  old  and  young  appeared  to  take  in  this  en.ployment 

urrld  7'"'"';  '''"  '"  '■"'  '^'^  "^'  ^^^«P«  --  ^'-  low  waTthat 
urtounds  thern,  only  two  or  three  inches  above  the  water;  but  thev 

appear  bewd.lered      The  natives  regretted  that  their  succe  s  wa    so 

al    and  nnputed  it  to  the  water  being  too  high.     Some  fresh  watr 

a    a  ce.     What  the  nattves  had  in  their  cocoa-nut  shells  was  sweet! 
It  IS,  howex  ur.  ni  no  great  abundance. 

Mnny  specimens  were  here  added  to  our  collections.    This  was  one 
of  the  .slands  m  which  I  atten^pted  to  sound  the  lagoon.    We  be«irat 
the  entrance,  but  Ibund.  within  a  very  short  distance,  tilt  tllTptl 
increased  to  th.rty  fathon,s.  the  water  being  as  blue'  as  tha  to 

time  allowed"  Tl'      '''  T'^-'  ^"  ""'"'^''"""  ^^'^  ^'^^""^  -'-^  -y 
t.mc^  allowed.     The  sounding,  m  every  case  of  any  depth,  was  coral 

Towards  sunset  we  all  embarked,  and  my  leave-taking  with  the  old 
chief  was  amusmg.  He  with  all  his  household  and  reth.ue.  l^^ 
cry  and  whme  over  n^e.  so  that  I  was  glad  to  escape  from  t  e  dis, Iw 
of  so  much  friendship  and  parental  allbction.  '    ^ 

After  reaching  niy  ship,  the  Porpoise  a.<Tain  joined  us.     She  had 

been  despatched  early  in  the  morning  towards  the  eastern  end  of  the 

sland.  to  ascertam  its  extent,  and  fix  its  point  in  that  direction;  not 

heing  able  to  accomplish  this.  Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold  re- 

tui-ned  for  iu.-thcr  orders.      This  night  we  lay-to  under  tlfe  loe  of 


VAUMOTU    GROUP 


Raraka ;  but  as  it  proved  dark  and  squally,  we  stood  to  the  northward, 
and  about  one  o'clock  we  were  surprised  by  seeing  a  signal  from  the 
Peacock,  of  danger  close  aboard,  under  the  lee.  I  immediately  tacked, 
and  we  soon  cleared  it.  It  proved  to  be  the  reef  of  Kawahe,  over 
which  the  surf  was  breaking  violently.  The  Peacock  was  so  close  tc 
it,  that  Captain  Hudson  felt  himself  obliged  to  stand  on  his  course 
rather  than  run  the  risk  of  missing  stays,  and  continued  to  run  along 
it  for  several  miles,  until,  by  its  trending  to  the  westward,  he  was 
enabled  to  clear  the  danger. 

On  the  1st  of  September,  at  daylight,  we  found  ourselves  between 
the  two  islands,  and  the  Peacock  was  out  of  sight ;  but  two  hours 
afterwards,  she  was  again  seen.  I  made  signal  to  the  Porpoise,  and 
despatched  her  to  examine  the  southeast  side  of  Raraka,  and  thence  to 
follow  on  to  the  westward  as  far  as  Krusenstern's  Island,  passing 
along  the  south  side  of  Nairsa  or  Dean's  Island.  I  then  despatched 
the  Peacock  to  the  north  end,  and  the  tender  to  the  south  end  of 
Kawahe,  to  secure  meridian  observations,  whilst  the  Vincennes  was 
employed  in  surveying  its  eastern  shores.  The  wind  was  well  adapted 
to  our  object,  and  at  sunset  we  met  off  the  north  end,  having  completed 
our  work.  The  current  was  tried,  but  we  found  none.  The  wind  was 
fresh  from  the  eastward,  with  occasional  squalls.  On  the  mornin"'  of 
the  2d,  I  determined  to  land  the  naturalists  on  the  newly-found  island, 
and  for  this  purpose  made  signal  to  the  tender  to  come  within  hail. 
My  ship  was  lying  with  her  main-topsail  to  the  mast,  and  forging 
ahead  about  a  knot  an  hour.  The  tender  came  up  on  our  lee  quar- 
ter, and  luffed  quite  unexpectedly  directly  across  our  bow.  Her 
mast  just  escaped  coming  in  contact  with  our  jib-boom.  I  at  once 
ordered  all  the  sails  of  the  Vincennes  to  be  thrown  aback,  which 
stopping  her  way,  prevented  the  dreadful  accident  of  running  the 
tender  down.     It  was  a  most  miraculous  escape. 

We  landed  on  Vincennes  Island,  and  obtained  the  usual  observations. 
Its  south  point  is  in  latitudes  15°  5<J'  48"  S.,  longitude  145°  09'  30"  W. 
It  was  found  to  be  sixteen  miles  long  by  ten  wide;  its  greatest  diameter 
lying  north  and  south.  It  is  a  narrow  annular  ridge,  consisting  of 
many  blocks  and  slabs  of  coral,  which  give  a  clinky  sound  when 
struck.  The  coral  shelf  seemed  to  dip  in  one  place  at  an  angle  of  15°, 
forming  a  ridge,  which  was  so  low  that  the  tide  was  beginning  to  flow 
over  it  before  high  water.  There  is  an  opening  into  the  lagoon  on  the 
southwest  side;  on  its  southeastern  part  is  a  high  clump  of  trees, 
looking  like  a  knoll  at  a  distance.  The  rest  of  the  island  is  covered 
with  a  growth  of  bushes,  icn  or  twelve  feet  high.  The  blocks  and 
slabs  above  spoken  of  were  very  much  water-worn,  and  were  strewn 


night. 


PAUMOTU   GROUP. 


333 


about  on  the  coral  shelf.  This,  where  I  measured  it,  was  five  hundred 
feet  wide,  but  it  is  not  of  equal  width  in  all  parts.  Among  the  coral 
b.ocks  was  some  sand,  and  in  many  of  them  were  found  large  speci- 
mens of  the  chama  and  other  shells.  I  was  informed  at  Raraka,  that 
there  were  a  few  inhabitants  on  Vincenncs  Island,  but  none  were  seen 
by  us.     They  were  said  to  live  on  the  southern  end  of  it. 

After  finishing  our  observations,  we  returned  on  board,  and  made 
sail  for  Aratica,  or  Carlshofi"  Island.  We  arrived  off  it  in  time  to 
secure  its  connexion  with  Vinccnnes  Island :  the  distance  was  found, 
by  patent  log,  and  astronomical  observations,  to  be  twenty  miles  to 
the  westvvard.  We  then  stood  on  and  off  its  eastern  point  for  the 
night.  The  next  morning  at  daylight  we  began  its  survey.  The 
tender  was  despatched  round  its  northern  shore,  whilst  the  Peacock 
and  ^mcennes  took  its  southern  side,  running  close  along  the  reef, 
which  continued  submerged  until  near  its  southwestern  end,  which  is 
twelve  feet  high  and  thickly  wooded.  On  rounding  the  point,  we  saw 
a  white  flag  waved  by  several  natives  on  the  beach.  I  immediately 
despatched  a  boat,  with  an  olhcer,  who  brought  off  two  of  the  prin- 
cpa  natives  one  of  whom  spoke  a  little  English,  and  proved  quite 
intelligent.  One  of  these  natives  was  tattooed  only  on  one  side,  from 
tlie  pubis  to  the  sternum,  bounded  by  broad  blue  bands,  which  divided 
and  tcrminatod  under  each  ear. 


NATIVE  OP  r.lUMOTlT  CiKOIT. 

He  reported  that  there  were  about  twenty  natives  on  the  island, 
and  that  they  had  fre(iuent  intercourse  with  vessels  that  had  visited 
them.  They  informed  me  that  water  was  to  be  had  on  the  island. 
Finding  ourselves  short  of  this  necessary  article,  I  despatched  several 
boats  to  procure  it.  Aratica  is  eight  miles  in  length  by  five  in 
breadth.  '' 


334 


P  A  U  M  O  T  0    GROUP. 


All  the  naturalists  were  sent  on  shore,  with  as  many  of  the  officers 
as  could  be  spared  from  duty.  We  landed  near  what  the  natives 
called  their  village.  This  consisted  of  one  or  two  huts,  built  in  a  grove 
of  large  trees,  consisting  principally  of  Pisonias,  fifty  or  sixty  feet  in 
height.  Some  of  these  had  been  felled  (with  a  small  hatchet,  of  which 
they  possessed  only  one,)  to  build  canoes.  It  is  principally  used  for 
out-riggers,  being  light  and  durable,  and  well  adapted  for  that  purpose. 
We  found  two  canoes  partly  dug  out.  The  woods  were  quite  thick 
and  forest-like.  The  inhabitants  of  the  village  consisted  of  four  men, 
two  women,  a  dog,  and  a  cat ;  the  remainder  of  the  inhabitants  live  on 
the  northeast  side.  The  lagoon  abounds  with  fish,  and  has  several 
small  coral  knolls  in  it,  though  none  with  much  vegetation  on  them. 
This  is  the  most  elevated  of  the  low  coral  islands  we  had  yet  met 
with. 

It  has  a  deep  entrance  into  its  lagoon,  on  the  west  side. 

The  same  formation  presents  itself  here,  of  three  distinct  shelves : 
ihe  one  submerged,  narrow,  and  shelving  rapidly,  the  other  broad. 
level,  and  covered  at  high  water,  but  quite  bare  at  low,  and  having 
the  same  longitudinal  cracks  in  it.  On  the  upper  one  is  the  usual 
accumulation  of  coral  debris  and  sand,  on  which  the  vegetation 
grows. 

On  the  lagoon  side  the  beach  slopes  gradually,  and  there  is  seldom 
found  any  decided  break,  from  which  to  judge  of  the  thickness  of  the 
coral  shelf.  On  the  upper  shelf,  some  large  compact  coral  blocks  are 
found.  One  of  these,  which  I  measured,  was  ten  by  twenty  feet.  It 
rested  upon  two  small  fragments,  the  remainder  having  been  gradually 
worn  away  by  the  washing  of  the  sea ;  it  seemed,  in  fact,  to  be  a  part 
of  that  forming  the  second  or  upper  shelf  of  coral.  Tne  following; 
wood-cut  comprises  several  that  w-erc  seen  on  the  coral  islands,  and 
will  give  an  idea  of  their  shapes.  The  highest  point  of  the  island  was 
twelve  feet  above  low-water  mark. 


¥ 


^^^ 


CORAL  BLOCKS. 


The  fresh  water  is  procured  from  a  large  pool,  about  fifty  feet  m 


PAUMOTU   GROUP. 


t 


335 


I 

I 


r- 


.Iiameter.  and  of  considerable  depth;  it  is  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
village,  to  the  north,  and  situated  within  the  line  of  woods.  Watering 
IS  very  troublesome  and  fatiguing  when  the  boats  are  outside,  and  it  it 
necessary  to  transport  it  a  long  distance ;  but  having  leathern  watering- 
bags.  It  was  less  difficult  for  us.  By  entering  the  lagoon  through  the 
openmg,  the  boats  could  approach  very  near  the  pool.  There  would 
be  some  difficulty  in  passing  into  it  when  the  tide  is  setting  out  It 
was  reported  that  there  was  enough  water  to  supply  the  squadron. 
The  water  was  thought  by  some  to  be  a  little  brackish,  but  it  was 
tound  quite  potable. 

Many  botanical  specimens  were  obtained  here,  similar  to  those 
collected  on  the  other  islands;  also  several  birds,  a  harmless  scorpion, 
and  lizards,  the  same  as  found  on  the  other  islands. 

The  reefs  were  covered  with  Holuthuria  and  some  Biche-de-mar 
but  none  of  the  valuable  kinds;  we  also  obtained  a  large  number  of 
shells.  The  fish  here  are  said  to  be  poisonous;  but  the  natives,  we 
understood,  eat  some  of  the  kinds,  so  that  the  remark  does  not  apply 
to  the  whole.  The  position  of  the  west  point  of  the  island  was  deter- 
mined to  be  in  longitude  145°  39'  46"  W.,  and  latitude  15°  20'  S 

Having  obtained  all  the  water  we  could  in  the  afternoon,  amounting 
to  three  hundred  and  ninety  gallons,  I  directed  the  course  of  the 
squadron  to  the  northward  and  eastward,  towards  King  George's 
Group,  having  fresh  breezes  from  the  east-northeast.  The  next  day 
at  noon,  the  most  southern  island  was  in  sight,  and  finding  the  ships 
could  not  make  it  without  much  loss  of  time,  I  despatched  the  tender 
to  the  group,  with  orders  to  circumnavigate  and  examine  the  islands 
and  then  to  follow  us  to  Tahiti;  whilst  the  Vincennes  and  Peacock 
bore  away  to  the  westward,  for  the  doubtful  island  of  Waterlandt. 
At  5  p.  M.  it  was  discovered  from  the  masthead,  and  at  six  from  the 
fore-yard,  bearing  northwest-by-north. 

We  stood  on  and  off  all  night,  and  at  daylight  again  made  the  land- 
we  reached  its  north  point  at  four  o'clock  p.  m.,  when  the  Peacock  was 
ordered  to  take  the  east,  whilst  the  Vincennes  took  the  west  side;  we 
continued  the  survey  until  dark,  when  we  took  the  necessary  an  cries 
to  rcsutJle  the  work  in  the  morning.  Many  natives  were  seen,  and 
smoke  was  rising  in  several  places.  On  the  6th  of  September,  we 
continued  our  surveying  operations,  and  shortly  afterwards  joined  the 
Peacock,  Captain  Hudson  having  completed  his  side  of  the  island. 
The  Peacock  now  made  the  signal  of  land  to  the  westward.  Wishing 
to  land  and  make  an  examination  of  this  island,  as  well  as  to  have 
communication  with  the  natives,  the  boats  were  lowered,  and  the 
naturalists  from  both  vessels,  and  many  officers,  landed,  and  rambled 


336 


P  A  U  M  O  T  U    a  R  O  U  P. 


over  the  western  pait  ol'  ilie  island  lor  several  hours.  The  few  nativcf? 
were  very  friendly,  and  informed  us  that  the  native  name  of  the  islan<l 
was  Manhii.  This  is,  in  all  probability,  the  Watcrlandt  of  Schoinen 
and  Le  Maire,  and  also  Wilson's  Island  of  the  DulF.  Tiiere  is  a  lar<rf 
and  deep  entrance  in  the  southeast  end  into  the  lagoon  of  Manliii 
Island,  in  which,  the  natives  informed  me,  vessels  had  often  anchored, 
whilst  engaged  in  the  pearl-fishery.  Many  cocoa-nut  trees  were  seen 
on  this  island,  and  fresh  water  is  to  be  procured  from  a  pool  on  the 
southwest  side.  The  island  at  this  end  is  upwards  of  half  a  mile  wide 
to  the  lagoon ;  the  coral  reef  is  here  quite  broad.  Soundings  are  not  to 
be  had  with  one  hundred  fathoms  of  line,  fifty  feet  from  the  edge  of  it. 

There  were  some  small  compact  coral  rocks  here  and  there,  but  n^ 
regular  upper  or  second  shelf;  the  lower  coral  shelf  was  three  hundred 
feet  in  width,  and  had  many  long  longitudinal  cracks,  from  six  to  ei^ht 
inches  wide,  resembling  those  seen  in  ice-fields.  In  some  places  these 
were  quite  deep,  and  in  the  chasms  numerous  .shells  of  the  chama 
species  presented  to  our  view  their  beautiful  colours.  Some  of  the 
gentlemen  reported  that  they  found  a  stone  sarcophagus,  or  somethina 
much  resembling  one.  We  made  a  set  of  magnetic  observations  on 
this  island,  and  many  shells,  plants,  &c.,  were  procured. 

To  our  surprise,  one  of  the  men  of  the  Peacock,  by  the  name  of 
Penny,  here  deserted  from  the  boats.  lie  had  been  formerly  much 
among  the  islands,  engaged  in  pearl-fisliing,  and  spoke  the  language 
well.  Strict  search  was  made  for  him,  until  the  officer  in  charge  of 
the  boats  became  satisfied  that  he  had  no  intention  of  returning.  On 
hearing  of  it,  I  was  convinced  that  he  had  chosen  this  opportunity  to 
leave  us-,  particularly  as  he  must  have  been  aware  that  there  is  very 
frequent  communication  with  Tahiti.  The  chief  of  this  i.sland  informed 
us  that  he  was  a  relative  of  the  one-handed  chief  of  Raraka, 

The  east  end  of  the  island  lies  in  latitude  M°  20'  22"  S.,  longitude 
146°  04'  20"  W. 

Several  of  us  had  our  feet  severely  blistered,  from  going  barefoot  on 
the  reefs,  and  were  made  very  uncomfortable  from  this  cause.  After 
returning  on  board,  we  bore  away  to  the  other  island,  to  which  the 
natives  gave  the  name  of  Ahii.  I  have  also  added  that  of*  Peacock 
Island,  to  mark  that  its  correct  position  was  first  established  by  llie 
Expedition.  It  lies  west  three-fourths  north  per  compass  from  Maniiii. 
and  was  found  by  the  patent  log  to  be  eight  and  six-tenths  miles  from 
reef  to  reef.  On  coming  up  with  it,  the  Vinccnncs  and  Peacock  took 
opposite  sides,  and  surveyed  it ;  and  the  next  morning  parties  landed, 
I  was  hardly  able  to  move,  on  account  of  my  feel,  I)iit  the  desire  of 
geitmg  observations  of  tlie  eclipse,  urged  me  to  niake  the  attempt ;  1 


le 


PAUMOTU    GROUP. 


337 


only  succeeded  in  gettinu;  tlio  last  limh  and  j^r,,,,,!  obsnrvations  for  time. 
After  four  o'clock,  we  returned  on  board.  Tliis  island  is  net  inhabited, 
and  has  only  a  small  boat-entrance  into  its  lagoon,  on  the  west  side. 
The  coral  belt  is  similar  to  that  last  descibcd ;  it  was  found  to  be 
upwards  of  half  a  mile  in  width,  and  was  covered  with  the  same  kind 
of  vegetation  as  the  last,  excepting  cocoa-nut  trees,  of  which  none  were 
found  on  the  island.  The  lagoon  is  quite  shallow.  A  favourite  fish 
with  the  natives  is  found  in  it,  and  at  certain  seasons  they  visit  the 
island  for  the  jmrpose  of  catching  them.  The  coral  shelf  varied  from 
two  to  five  hundred  feet  in  breadth. 

Being  desirous  of  making  the  examination  of  as  many  of  the  coral 
islands  as  possible,  I  now  despatched  the  Peacock  to  the  Arutua  or 
Rurick  Islands,  with  directions  to  examine  them,  and  then  to  proceed 
along  the  south  side  of  Dean's  Island,  whilst,  in  the  Vincennes,  I  steered 
for  the  north  side  of  the  latter,  to  pass  along  it.     We  then  parted 
company,  and  Dean's  Island  was  made  by  us  the  next  morning.   After 
establishing  our  position,  we  ran  along  the  northern  shore,  and  reached 
its  western  point  at  4  p.  m.     Off  this  point  wo  obtained  sights  for  our 
chronometers,  which  put  it  in  longitude  147°  58'  .34"  W.,  latitude  15° 
05'  15"  S.     During  the  day  we  passed  an  entrance  into  its  lagoon,  and 
some  natives  came  off  from  a  small  village,  in  two  canoes,  to  visit  us. 
They  acknowledged  themselves  subjects  of  Queen  Pomare  of  Tahiti, 
and  were  very  desirous  we  should  land.    They  brought  off  a  few  shells, 
and  told  us  they  had  many  fowls,  pigs,  taro,  &c.     There  are  several 
islets  in  the  lagoon  covered  with  trees.     Vast  numbers  of  large  blocks 
were  seen  lying  on  its  reef     The  shore-reef  is  not  more  than  two 
hundred  feet  w^ide,  and  is  composed  of  only  one  shelf.   The  current  was 
tried,  but  none  was  found.     We  had  the  wind  very  fresh  from  east-by- 
north  all  day.     When  off  the  western  point  we  discovered  Krusen- 
stern's  Island  to  the  west,  and  hauled  up  to  pass  between  it  and  Nairsa. 
The  passage  was  found  to  be  twelve  and  two-thirds  miles  wide,  and 
free  from  all  danger.     In  the  evening  I  stood  for  Mctia  Island,  to  the 
southward.     Nairsa  or  Dean's  Island  was  found  to  be  sixty-six  miles 
in  len<Tth. 

On  the  morning  of  the  !)th  of  September  we  were  in  sight  of  Metia 
or  Aurora  Island,  the  north  end  of  which  is  in  latitude  1.5°  49'  35"  S., 
longitude  148°  13'  15"  W.  It  was  totally  different  in  appearance 
from  those  wo  had  met  with,  thou-h  evidently  of  the  same  formation. 
It  was  a  coral  island  uplifted,  exposing  its  formation  distinctly,  and  as 
such  was  very  interesting.  On  approaching  its  eastern  end,  I  sounded 
at  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  from  its  perpendicular  clifi;  and 
found  no  bottom  with  one  hundred  and  fifty  fathoms  of  line.     The 

VOL.  I.  SD  43 


888 


PAUMOTU   GROUP. 


cliff  appeared  worn  into  caverns.  We  landed  close  in  its  neighbour- 
hood, and  on  measuring  its  height,  it  proved  to  be  two  hundred  and 
fifty  feet.  The  coral  shelf  was  found  to  be  five  hundred  feet  in  width, 
extending  on  the  north  side  of  the  is'and,  and  gradually  diminishing  in 
width  until  it  loses  itself  at  the  western  end.  This  island  has  all  the 
features  that  one  would  naturally  be  led  to  expect  from  a  low  island 
uplifted.  The  north,  east,  and  west  sides  present  a  perpendicular  clill" 
or  wall,  but  this  character  does  not  prevail  on  the  south  side,  although 
it  has  some  high  knolls.  The  north  ridge  is  nearly  level,  and  there  is 
a  break  through  it  (by  which  we  ascended  to  its  top)  very  much  like 
the  opening  of  a  lagoon.  The  north  side  is  concave,  and  there  is 
found  within  the  indentations  between  its  two  points,  an  extensive 
inclined  plane,  composed  of  large  masses  of  limestone  and  vegetable 
mould,  on  which  the  village  is  situated,  in  a  luxuriant  grove  of  bread- 
fruit, cocoa-nut,  pandanus,  and  other  trees,  similar  to  those  already 
spoken  of,  as  seen  on  the  other  islands.  There  were  several  copious 
springs,  but  the  natives  informed  me  that  there  were  no  running  streams 
on  the  island. 

The  natives  all  seemed  delighted  to  see  us,  crowding  around  my 
boat,  and  assisting  to  haul  it  up ;  men,  women,  and  children  flocked 
around  us ;  all  the  population  were  gathered,  to  the  number  of  about  three 
hundred  and  fifty.  We  were  at  once  invited  to  the  chief's  and  native 
missionary's  house,  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  village.  The  house 
was  constructed  of  the  bread-fruit  wood,  for  a  frame,  and  reeds  of  the 
wild  sugar-cane  for  the  uprights,  with  interstices  for  the  passage  of 
the  air,  and  lining  of  mats  to  exclude  it  when  required.  It  was  well 
thatched,  and  the  whole  had  a  cool  and  comfortable  appearance. 
Cocoa-nuts  were  soon  brought  us,  and  all  our  questions  were  answered 
with  an  alacrity  and  pleasure  that  showed  their  strong  desire  to  oblige 
and  assist  us. 

The  natives  had  gathered  in  crowds  around  the  door  to  look  at  us. 


They  w( 
The  ma 
notice;  j 
througho 
then  I  CO 
All  were 
very  pan 
as  long  a 
fashion, 
were  to  I 
one  migh 


'V»=5^ 


of  our  cit 
light  summ 
checked  ai 
threadbare 
selves  with 
cast.  Th( 
•'onsidered 
of  pigs  anc 
the  island  j 
vulus  batatj 
and  cocoa-i 
had  also  ai 


P  A  U  M  O  T  U    G  R  O  U  P. 


339 


They  were  a  fine-lookmg  race,  though  Ibr.ning  rather  a  motley  group 

thrn  I  ?P  ,  '  ''''"""=  '^^'''-  "^^  ^''^""'^  i'  afterwards  practised 
hroughou  Polynesia.  Many  questions  were  put  to  me.  and  now  a"d 
ihen  I  could  hear  a  voice  saying.  «  Me  ship,  captain;  me  go  ^1'  " 
All  were  more  or  less  clothed  in  the  cast-oft' garments  of  whit!s  ar^  1 
very  particular  whether  they  possessed  oue.lwo,  or  par^o    :;"!"« 

lsS^hi'''""'/"'""^''■"" ''''' «-"  '^1^^^'  -'^  'n-  C 

v!  pTo\  '''P'''''^  "'"'■'  '■^'^''"'°"^'  ^"'-  «"  <^"'-  <irst  landing  few 

were  to  be  seen  except  in  their  native  dresses,  but  shortly  afterwards 
one  might  have  behoved  the  contents  of  all  the  old  clothes  shops  of  one 


MODE  OP  CARRYLNQ  CHILDREN. 

Of  our  cities  had  been  distributed  among  them:  storm  pea-iackets 

he  keTld  ZT'^rT  ""''''  °'  ^^^^^°^^^'  bell-cro^wnidhat  ; 
checked  and  red  flannel  shirts,  most  of  which  were  torn  or  worn 

h  eadbare  m  many  places;  whilst  the  women  had  bedecked  tlem" 

eh.es  wtth  cocoa-nut  oil  and  turmeric,  giving  them  a  bright  o  a  go 

cast       Iheir  heads  were   adorned  with  flowers,  and  they  evidenlv 

onstdered  themselves  in  their  holiday  attire.     They  had  an'lbu  dan  e 

tj"SL7  'r 'T  '"'^  "^'^  '"''  ^"  ^'^^  "PP-  -d  interior  part  of 
lulu    hnt  t'T    "f  ''"  ^^'■""  «-"'^"»'™)'  -veet-potatoes  (Convol- 

a  d  ot;  '  ""^"?  ^''"^'  '''^  ^°"^  ^^^-'^^^  -'"'«  »he  brlad-fruit 
and  cocoa-nuts  were  hangmg  in  clusters  over  their  dwellings.  They 
had  also  an  abundance  of  crabs  and  fish  ;  on  our  landing  we  found 


840 


PAUMOTU    GROUP. 


them  devouring  tlie  latter,  wiili  great  gusto,  raw,  but  tlic  former  they 
roasted.  Here  we  again  saw  printed  copies  of  several  portions  of  tlic 
Scriptures,  and  found  that  many  of  them  could  read  and  write  well. 
No  spears,  clubs,  or  warlike  instruments  were  to  be  seen,  and  when  I 
asked  for  them  as  matters  of  curiosity,  they  said  they  had  no  anus 
except  two  muskets,  which  were  pointed  out  to  me,  hanging  up  under 
the  eaves  of*  the  house.  The  native  missionary,  a  man  about  fifty 
years  of  age,  told  me  that  in  times  past  they  had  "  all  war,"  but  now 
all  was  peace.  I  was  desirous  of  knowing  to  what  he  imputed  the 
change,  and  he  very  readily  answered,  "  Mittionari,  mai-ttii,  mai-tai," 
(missionary,  good,  good).  They  acknowledge  the  authority  of  Poinaro 
of  Tahiti.  Dr.  Pickering,  who  was  in  cc!Tipany  with  me,  came  to 
propose  that  we  should  ascend  the  blulf,  which  the  chief,  being  made 
acquainted  with,  readily  gave  his  consent  to,  and  sent  for  two  men  fu 
accompany  us.  We  ascended  through  the  narrow  break,  twenty  to 
thirty  feet  wide  :  the  natives  had  improved  the  path  up  by  placing  the 
clinky  slabs  of  compact  coral,  as  a  rude  pavement,  and  for  steps,  in 
order  to  make  the  communication  more  easy  to  their  planting  grounds. 
On  reaching  the  top,  we  found  ourselves  in  a  wood,  and  wishing  to 
get  a  view  of  the  interior,  we  made  for  the  east  end,  passing  occa- 
sionally over  beds  of  clinky  cort.l,  thrown  and  scattered  in  all 
directions.  After  a  walk  of  more  than  a  mile,  we  came  to  an  open 
space,  from  which  we  had  a  clear  view  of  the  interior  of  the  island, 
which  was  found  to  be  densely  covered  with  trees.  The  general 
shape,  as  far  as  it  could  be  seen,  was  pan-like,  or  in  the  form  of  a  dry 
lagoon. 

This  island  was  particularly  interesting,  from  its  combining  Loth 
high  and  low  vegetation ;  and  a  very  considerable  collection  of  plants 
was  obtained.  Several  pigeons  were  seen,  two  of  which  we  obtained ; 
they  were  of  a  large  species  of  Columba  oceanica,  that  inhabits  those 
groups.  We  crossed  many  large  fissures,  running  in  a  line  with  the 
clifi',  some  of  them  two  or  three  feet  wide,  in  which  trees  of  some  size 
were  growing. 

As  far  as  our  observations  went,  the  upper  portion  of  this  island  is 
composed  of  limestone  or  compact  coral  rock ;  the  clifl",  on  its  eastern 
side,  where  we  first  landed,  appears  stratified,  horizontally,  in  beds  of 
ten  to  twelve  feet  in  thickness,  of  a  sort  of  conglomerate,  composed  of 
shells,  coral,  and  pieces  of  compact  rock,  cemented  together  by  a  cal- 
careous deposit.  Tiie  under  part  of  this  bed  had  been  much  worn  by 
the  sea;  the  rich  soil  was  composed  of  vegetable  matter  and  decom- 
posed limestone.  The  slabs  that  were  lying  loose  upon  the  surface  had 
a  clinky  or  metallic  sound  when  struck.     The  island  has  unequivocal 


PAUMOTU   GROUP. 


841 


marks  of  having  been  uplifted  at  dillbrcnt  j.eriods;  the  cliflT,  at  two 
diflbrcnt  heights,  appears  to  have  sufTered  abrasion  by  the  sea    Stalag 
mites  were  observed  under  the  cUfls,  and  some  stalactitic  columns, 
fourteen  feet  high  by  six  in  diameter.    On  coming  towards  the  village 
we  saw  many  natives  returning  with  loads  of  taro,  &c„  which  thev  had 
been  sent  to  gather.   On  our  return,  we  were  taken  again  to  the  chiePs 
house,  and  entertained  with  cocoa-nufs,  baked  taro,  and  bread-fruit 
which  had  been  cooked  during  our  absence.     At  the  boat  we  found 
mora  articles  for  purchase  than  ive  had  the  means  to  pay  for,  or  the 
boat  could  carry;  and  every  one  seemed  desirous  of  securing  the  sale 
of  his  fruits  and  vegetables.     Notwithstanding   the  over-supply,  the 
prices  were  I  thought  rather  enhanced  than  lowered,  and  there  was  an 
evident  feeling  among  the  crowd  that  we  had  not  been  so  liberal  in 
buying  as  we  ought  to  have  been.    I  was  glad  to  get  off,  in  order  to  be 
Jreed  from  the  flies,  which  are  in  incredible  numbers  in  all  the  inhabited 
islands  and  a  great  nuisance.     I  left  the  island  under  the  impression 
this  httlc  community  was  a  happy  and  contented  one.     At  about  five 
o  clock,  we  joined  the  ship,  some  distance  to  the  southward  of  the 
island;  all  the  surveying  boats  having  returned,  we  bore  away  for 
lahiti,  at  which  island  we  arrived  on  the  10th.   At  5  p.  m.,  Lieutenant- 
Commandant  Ringgold  boarded  us,  and  brought  off  Jim,  the  pilot  •  he 
reported  all  well  on  board  the  Porpoise.     At  sunset,  we  anchored  in 
Matavai  Bay.     I  hastened  to  ascertain  the  correctness  of  our  chrono- 
meters, and  the  next  day  landed  the  instruments  on  Point  Venus  and 
took  observations.     They  gave  for  its  longitude  149°  31'  13-5''  W 
Krusenstern  makes  it  149°  29'  17"  W. 

Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold,  in  the  Porpoise,  after  parting 
company  on  the  1st  of  September,  proceeded  to  the  south  side  of 
Karaka,  m  fulfilment  of  his  instructions.  He  found  the  whole  southern 
part  of  It  a  bare  reef,  with  the  surf  breaking  violently  over  it.  When 
off  the  south  point,  he  made  the  isle  of  Katiu  or  Sacken  to  the  south 
and  that  of  Makima  to  the  east,  and  connected  them;  after  which  he' 
proceeded  to  the  westward,  passing  Aratica  (Carlshoff),  and  thence  to 
Nairsa  or  Dean's  Island,  which  he  made  on  the  5th;  fixed  its  western 
end,  passed  along  its  south  to  its  western  side,  and  thence  to  Krusen- 
stern's  Island,  to  the  westward,  which  he  circumnavigated ;  from  thence 
went  direct  to  Tahiti,  anchored  in  Papieti  Harbour  on  the  9th,  and  the 
next  day  proceeded  to  Matavai  Bay,  the  place  of  rendezvous. 

On  the  12th,  the  Peacock  arrived,  having  passed  to  the  Rurick 
Islands  or  Arutua,  the  north  end  of  which  lies  in  latitude  15°  15'  00" 
S  longitude  146°  51'  00"  W.  A  landing  was  attempted  at  several 
places  m  the  boats.     One  of  them  succeeded  near  a  cocoa-nut  grove 


849 


PAUMOTU   GROUP. 


but  ilie  two  timt  went  to  liuid  at  tlio  villnge,  found  tho  surf  too  high  to 
attempt  it. 

Tho  north  shore  of  Arutua  Island  was  surveyed,  when  they  bore 
away,  and  connected  it  with  Nairsa  or  Dean's  Island,  along  which 
they  ran  the  whole  length  of  its  south  side  by  daylight.  The  lust 
named  island  is  for  the  most  part  a  washed  reef,  with  no  opening. 
The  compact  coral  blocks  showed  themselves  here  more  conspicu- 
ously and  in  greater  numbers  than  before  seen. 

The  following  sketch,  by  Mr.  Agate,  will  illustrate  their  appearance, 


After  making  the  west  end  of  Nairsa,  Captain  Hudson  sighted 
Krusenstern's  Island,  and  then  stood  for  Metia  Island,  to  the  south- 
ward, on  wliicli  the  oli'iccrs  landed  !lie  next  day  on  its  western  side. 
Their  exiuuination  confirmed  tiie  fact.s  already  given,  relative  to  its 
appearance. 

Mr.  Dana  found  some  recent  shells  embedded  in  the  limestone,  but 
they  had  lost  their  texture. 

On  this  island,  the  magnetic  observations  were  made,  with  the 
Peacock's  instruments.  Captain  Hudson  also  sounded  with  the  deep- 
sea  thermonicter,  when  wi''  n  a  mil')  of  the  island,  in  six  hundred 
ftllhoDis  ;  the  temperature  at  the  surface  of  the  water  was  HO.J",  that 
below,  41.^°.  The  next  day  tli(!y  made  Teluaroa,  to  the  nmtliward  of 
Tahiti,  formerly  celebralod  as  the  resort  of  ♦he  Tahitians,  for  tiie 
purpose  of  recovering  from  the  bodily  diseases  br(.)Uglit  on  by  their 
debauchciies,  &c'.  It  is  a  low  island,  about  six  miles  long,  with  a  few 
trees  upon  it,  and  a  reef  oil"  its  southorn  end,  extending  half  a  mile.  It 
is  plainly  to  be  seen  from  the  lii^h  ruiges  of  Tahiti. 

On  the  Mill,  the  Flying-Fish  arrived.  She  had  visited  and  sur- 
veyed King  George's  Group,  which  an|)earcd  well  inhabited,  and  have 
entrances  to  their  lagoons  on  the  vest  s'de.  The  native  name  of  the 
two  islands,  is  Tiokcu  and  Oura.  The  southwest  end  of  Tiokea  is  in 
latitude  11°  31'  12"  S.,  longitude  11,5°  09'  30"  W. ;  Oura  bears 
S.  68°  W.,  distant  iour  and  a  half  miles.  Then  the  tender  passed  to 
Manhii  and  Ahii,  round  the  north  side  of  Nairsa,  or  Dean's  Island,  to 
Tahiti 


PA  ti  Mbrij  a  i{<»  n  p. 


343 


I 


ft' 


Litflo  npitoars  to  \m  known  ol'ilui  liistnrv  of  flio  I'uiimotu  Islands,  or 
their  inliabitanls.  At  Taliili  I  ohiainod  somu  inf'oriiialion  iVom  onowlio 
had  been  much  among  tlio  j,'r<)iii),  and  l)clievo  that  it  is  as  uutlientic  as 
can  bo  obtnimul,  and  may  1«)  rulind  on. 

The  Island  of  Anaa,  or  Chain  Island,  has  been  the  principal  seat  of 
power,  the  nativ(;s  of  \vlii<di  liad  lro(|iu!ntly  wai^'cd  war  on  the  others, 
and  suceeedcd  in  conqnoring  all  to  the  west  of  J  Ian  or  Mow  Island, 
with  which  they  have  frt;(|nently  fought. 

In  the  reign  of  the  first  Poinarc,  nnder  Toinntiti,  they  even  attempted 
the  conquest  of  Tahiti,  and  succeeded  in  overcoming  the  small  peninsula 
of  Taiarabu.  Tlie  story  is,  that  they  were  about  to  (lontiniio  their 
attack  on  the  larg(;r  island,  wht;n  Tomatiti  received  a  written  letter 
from  Pomare,  which  caused  hostilities  to  be  suspended;  and  after 
further  negotiation,  finally  led  to  Tomatiti's  retiring  jhjm  the  island 
with  a  large  present  of  hogs,  fai)a,  I'tc.  Notwithstanding  this,  the 
Chain  Islanders  remained  nominally  under  the  govertmient  of  Tahiti, 
and  now  acknowledge  their  dependenc^c  on  it. 

Anaa,  or  Chain  Island,  is  one  of  the  smallest,  yet  it  is  the  most 
thickly-peopled  island  of  the  whole  group.  It  is  said  to  contain  five 
thousand  inhabitants,  which  large  numlxM-  is  accounted  f»r  by  the  con- 
quest of  the  other  islands,  and  taking  their  inhabitants  oil"  as  cajdivcs. 
In  the  list  of  the  islands  and  their  population,  it  will  be  seen  how  tew 
remain  on  the  other  islands  in  comparison  with  this  rnimlx^r.  The 
whole  island  is  one  cocoa-nut  grove,  and  the  princijjal  food  is  fish  and 
cocoa-nuts.  The  former  an;  caught  in  large  quantities  in  the  lagoon. 
A  great  change  has  been  brought  about  in  the  character  of  these 
islanders  within  the  last  twcnfy-fivo  years,  during  which  the  Taliitian 
missionaries  have  been  established  at  Anaa.  Before  this  period,  the 
inhabitants  were  (-annibals.  Since  the  residence  of  the  missionaries, 
they  have  imbibed  belter  tastes;  and  the  Christian  influence  has  also 
made  them  more  peaceful.  This  change  was  first  ovinccul  by  the  treat- 
ment of  their  captives,  whom  they  allowed  to  return,  if  they  chose,  to 
their  own  island;  but  very  many  of  them  had  married  at  Anaa,  and 
became  permanent  residents  there,  and  few  have  taken  advantage  of 
the  permission  to  return.  Notwithstanding  the  numerous  jjopulalion, 
they  are  said  to  have  an  abundance  of  food.  The  peojilo  of  Anaa  still 
consider  the  inhabitants  of  the  eastern  islands  as  cannibals;  iuit  their 
statement  in  this  respect  is  little  to  be  depended  upon,  for  they  have  no 
communication  whatever  with  those  whom  they  class  under  this  deno- 
mination, seldom  extending  themselves  beyond  Ilau  or  Bow  Island. 

The  Paumotuans  are  considered  more  warlike  than  the  Tahitians, 
for  which  reason  Pomare  I.  kept  a  body-guard  of  them  in  preference 


344  PAUMOTU   gThoUP. 

to  Ilia  own  H(il)J6Ct8.  They  have  tho  ruputatiou  uf  huitig  an  hunust  and 
trustworthy  raco. 

Theso  idlandurs  are  certainly  not  all  from  tho  same  stock,  and  those 
ol"  Ihu  Disappointment  (irou|),  whom  wo  wore  much  struck  with  at  tho 
lime  of  our  visit,  in  |mrticular  diU'er  from  tho  others.  Since  we  have 
seen  all  iho  dillcMont  I'olynesian  groups,  these  appear,  however  extra- 
ordinary it  may  ho,  to  rcsenihlo  tho  Feejeo  Islanders  more  than  any 
other. 

By  all  accounts,  they  speak  a  difTerent  dialect  from  that  of  the 
Tahitiaa  nation.  Tho  diHerence  is,  however,  not  great,  for  I  was  told 
that  it  rcijuired  but  a  few  weeks  for  any  of  the  natives  to  accjuirc  it. 
Mr.  Halo  met  several  Paumotuans  at  Matavai  Hay,  and  among  them 
he  found  one  by  the  name  of  Tuoni,  who  confirmed  the  accounts  I  have 
detailed  above. 

Tho  population  of  this  group  I  have  nowhere  seen  given;  I  havo 
therefore  endeavoured  to  obtain  the  most  satisfactory  information  in 
relation  to  it :  the  whole  amounts,  in  round  numbers,  to  about  ten 
thousand,  as  follows : 

Anaa .  5,000 

Manhii     ........  100 

Aratica 60 

NiiirHa 70 

Mctia 3r)0 

Rurick 200 

King  Gcorgo'B 700 

VinccnncB 30 

Ruraka 40 

Wytoolico 70 

Otooho 40 

Row  Island 60 

Manp^a  Rcva,  or  Gambler  Island       .        .        .  3,000 

Scric  Island 30 

Clermont  do  Tonnorro      .....  120 

8,870 

Rest  of  the  group        ,        .    1,130 

10,000 

On  the  map  of  this  group  it  will  be  seen  to  where  the  line  of  canni- 
balism extends,  according  to  native  accounts.  It  may  be  said  to  divide 
them  into  two  divisions,  the  Christians  and  Heathens,  or  perhaps,  more 
properly,  the  eastern  and  western ;  the  whole  comprise  sixty-five  islands. 
Although  there  is  little  doubt  that  the  natives  of  this  group  have  been 
addicted  to  this  horrible  barbarity,  yet  it  is  believed  that  it  is  not  now 
practised. 


si: 


VOL.  I. 


P  A  1/  M  ()  T  V   «  R  O  U  P. 


345 


The  ndvanccmonf  of  rivjli/aiin,,  |,y  tf.oir  inKTronrse  with  tho  whites 
togothcT  With  the  inis,si,.,mry  i,.lhu.„,u>,  will  p„t  an  eiul  to  this  ,.raclico' 
'u..i  promote  p<-a.H,   among  all  tho  islanders  of  the  firo.ip;   not  only 
amehoratnig  tho  condition  of  tho  natives,  hnt  protecting  the  unfortu- 
nate mariner  who  may  |,„  wrecked  within  this  <langerou.s  archipela-o 
From  what  has  been  said  of  .he  Paumo.u  nroupj  it  is  evident  it  c°an 
al  ord  but  few  a.l vantages  for  eonm.ercial  enterprise;  tho  only  article 
which  of  late  years  has  been  sought  for  among  the  islands,  is  the  pearl 
oyster-shell,  of  which  considerable  quantities  have  lM)cn  obtained.    Tho 
rcl.n-n  will  bo  noticed  under  the  commerce  r.f  Tahiti,  of  which  it 
forms  a  part.     Tho  vessels  engaged  in  the  fishery  belong  to  foreigners, 
who  rosulo  at  Tahiti.     Tho  mode  of  taking  the  oysters  is  by  natives 
who  arc  employed  as  divers,  for  a  very  small  compensation.     It  is 
much  to  bo  regretted,  that  tho  traders  should  have  rccourso  to  the 
demoralizing  cflects  of  spirits,  in  stimulating  their  exertions. 

The  natives  themselves  carry  on  a  small  trade  in  their  .loublo 
canoes,  which  it  will  bo  seen  by  tho  wood-cut  below,  have  already 
uiKlcrgone  some  modifications  from  that  already  given  on  a  previous 
F-go,  as  formerly  in  use.  These  are  prin,.-pally  the  Chain  Islanders, 
who  supply  themselves  at  Tahiti  with  various  small  articles,  in  ex- 
change  for  thoir  cocoa-nut  oil  and  dried  fish. 


TRADING  SOUDUe  CANOE. 


VOL.  I. 


44 


A  l>  l»  K  N  I)  I  X 


VI. 


CONTENTS. 


I. 

ii. 
III. 

IV. 
V. 

VI. 

VII. 

vai. 

IX. 

X. 

XI. 
XII. 

xif>:. 

XIV. 

XV. 

XVI. 
XVII. 

tvni. 

XIX. 


STATEMENT  IV  HELATION  TO  LIEUTENANT  HUDSON 381 

LETTER  FROM  THE  HON.  JOEL  R.  POINSETT 351 

LETTER  FROM  LIEUTENANT  HUDSON 352 

NAVY  GENERAL  ORDER 35, 

MEMORANDUM  FOR  THE  COMMANDER  OF  THE  EXPEDITION  TO  EXPLORE 

THE  SOUTH  SEAS 354 

LETTERS  TO  THE  HON.  JAMES  K.  PAULDING.  AND  COMMODORE  L.  WARRING 

™N 35Q 

ORDERS  TO  THE  RELIEF 3,., 

GENERAL  ORDER,  NO.  1 35, 

ORDERS  RESPECTING  THE  RECEIPT,  SAFE  KEEPING,  AND  EXPENDITURK  OF 

PROVISIONS,  STORES,  ETC 35^ 

GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  REL.VHVE  TO  OUSRRVATIONS 303 

INSTRUCTIONS,  PORTION  OF,  PROMULGATED  TO  OFFICERS .3C4 

GENERAL  ORDER  RELATIVE  TO  JOURNALS 307 

LETTER   TO  LIEUTENANT  CRAVEN  EXPLANATORY  OP  GENERAL   ORDER 

RELATIVE  TO  JOURNALS 367 

ORDER  TO  PURSERS,  AND  LETTER  TO  SECRETARY  OF  THE  NAVV  RELATIVE 
TO  MARINES'  BOUNTY 


mn 


LETTER  TO  TIIE  HON.  JAMES  K.   PAULDING,  AND  REPORT  FROM  LIEUTE 

NANT  HUDSON  RELATIVE  TO  DEFECTS  OF  PEACOCK 3Tn 

METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS  UNDER  THE  EaUATOR 373 

METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS  AT  RIO  JANEIRO 375 

MEMORANDUM  OF  PASSAGES  FROM  THE  UNITED  STATES  TO  RIO  JANEIRO 

FOR  EIGHT  YKARS 

ORDERS  RELATIVE  TO  I 
3E 


37I> 


•  NAL  APPEARANCE,  SCIENTIFIC  DUTIES,  ETC   380 

(3tt) 


350 

XX. 

XXI 

XXII. 

XXIII. 

XXIV 

XXV. 

XXVI. 

XXVII. 

XXVIII. 

XXIV. 

XXX. 

XXXI. 

XXXII. 

XXXIII. 

XXXIV. 

XXXV. 

XXXVI. 

XXXVII. 

XXXVIII. 

XXXIX. 

XL. 

XLI. 

XLII. 

XLIII. 

XLIV. 

XLV. 


CONTENTS. 

ORDERS  TO  CAPTAIN  IH'DSON  FOR  SURVEY,  ETC 384 

POPULATION  OP  BRAZIL 3^5 

STATEMENT  OF  THE  EXPORTS  OP  THE  PRINCIPAL  PRODUCTS  OP  HKAZIL 

DURING  THE  YEAR  1«)>' 3^:,; 

RESULT  OP  THE  .MEASUREMENT  OK  A  BASE  LINE  BY  SOUND  BETWEEN 

CAPE  FRIO  LlfillT  HOUSE  AND  ENXADOS  ISLAND >: 

SAILING  INSTRITTIONS  FOR  THE  RELIEF,  PEAroCK,  PORPOISE,  ETC..  ;)!ll 

ORDERS  TO  CAPTAIN  HUDSON  FOR  ANTARCTIC  CRUISE 31(4 

ORDERS  TO  LIEUTENANT  H.  E.  JOHNSON  FOR  ANTARCTIC  CRUISE...     ...  307 

ORDERS  TO  LIEUTENANT  VV.  M.  WALKER  FOR  ANTARCTIC  CRUISE 3)18 

GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  HO.Vr  DUTY,  SURVEYING,  ETC 400 

INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  THE  VINCENNES .. .  4(hJ 

ORDERS  TO  LIEUTENANTCOM.MANDANT  LONG 404 

CAPTAIN  HUDSON'S  AND  LIEUTENANT  WALKERS  REPORTS 405 

ORDER  TO  SEAGULL 4,5 

GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  IN  RELATION  TO  THE  COLLECTION  AND  PRE- 
SERVATION OF  SPECIMENS,  SHELLS,  ETC 415 

ORDERS  TO  LIEUTENANT  CRAVEN,  AND  PAPERS  RELATIVE  TO  HIM 418 

GENERAL  ORDER  RELATIVE  TO  GOOD  CONDUCT  .OP  CREW 4»U 

ORDER  TO  LIEUTENANT  PINKNEY ^.,„ 

GENERAL  ORDER  RELATIVE  TO  COURT  OP  INaUIRY 4.J1 

LETTER  FROM  OFFICERS  OF  THE  EXPEDITION,  AND  GENERAL  ORDER...  423 

ORDERS  TO  SaUADRON 4,^3 

ORDERS  TO  RELIEF ...  4.JJ 

ORDERS  FOR  OBSERVATIONS,  MODE  OF  SURVEYING  CORAL  ISLANDS,  ETC.  4i7 

LETTER  RELATIVE  TO  THE  WANT  OP  CONFORMITY  TO  ORDERS 432 

ORDER  RELATIVE  TO  CORAL  SPECIMENS 433 

ORDERS  TO  PORPOISE 4;^, 

ORDERS  TO  TENDER  FLYING-PISH 434 


APTENDIX. 


I. 

'    «TATKMKNT  IN  «r.r.T.O.  TO  r.-KUTKNAXT  „„nSON'.  oo,N«  o.T  ,N  -HU- 

KXPLou.m.  nxPK,„ri„N,  hndku  T..KUTK^A^T  wii.kks. 
r.iKtrrKNANT  Ilunsox   rec.ivo.l  cnl.rs,  while  first  lieutenant  c.f  (ne 
-vy-yard   New  York,  to  proeee.l  to  Washington.     On  h^  n    iJ'^     e 
was    ol       y  U,e  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  .he'lfon.  Mah...  H         t 
"'^^t.  he  had  been  sent  lor  to  <ro  o„t  in  ,he  Explorin-r  lOv.u.di.in,        l" 

(MiLction  tliesc  aiTanc;enienfs  ha(     l)oen  nl-ip,.,l      An, 

iicu,o,.„,„  „f  „,„  „av,.„.,,.  .,„,,o,.  .t'::lz'i;';:;;';; '''''■-  -- '" 


11. 


fiiHUTENANT  IIuDSON.  U.  S.  Navy,  W-imlnngton,  Juno  5tl.,  l«:ia 

Sir,-Tho  anxiet,    I  fbel,  in  eonnnnn  with  the  whole  eonnt.T    for 
1.0  sneces.  ot  the  T^.plonn,  Expedition,  nn.l  the  luXosuZ^    l^. 
formed   (Vom  the  .es.in.ony  of  yonr  bn.ther  omeers,"  f  "     'cha  i    e 
and  abdmes,  render  me  exceedingly  .le.in.us  of  seei.rin-f  ;:^; ':::;;!:: 

(••Wi) 


352 


APPENDIX. 


as  its  second  officer.  Not  only  is  it  of  great  importance  that  the 
romniandcr  should  have  as  his  second  in  command,  an  officer  in 
whose  zeal  and  efficient  co-operation  he  can  rely,  but  the  government 
desires  the  choice  should  fall  on  one  possessing  the  necessary  qualifi- 
cations in  case  of  an  accident  to  that  ofliccr,  to  carry  out  the  objects 
of  the  Expedition,  and  to  conduct  it  in  safety  to  our  own  shores.  With 
these  views  and  wishes,  I  have  seen,  with  regret,  that  a  mere  matter 
of  etiquette  prevents  you  from  engaging  in  a  service  for  which  you 
are  so  well  fitted. 

Regarding  as  I  do  the  practice  of  giving  officers  temporary  appoint- 
ments as  illegal,  and  prejudicial  to  the  service,  I  could  not  recommend 
to  the  President  to  sanction  its  continuance  for  three  years  longer, 
by  granting  such  appointment  to  the  officers  of  the  Expedition. 

It  does  not,  however,  appear  to  me,  that  this  decision  ought  to 
present  an  obstacle  to  your  accepting  a  command  under  Lieutenant 
Wilkes,  whom  you  rank  by  what  must  be  considered  an  imaginary 
line. 

If  the  Expedition  were  of  a  military  cliaracter,  I  would  not  attempt 
to  combat  your  scruples ;  hut  it  is  purely  civil,  and  even  should  a  war 
break  out  between  the  United  States  and  any  naval  power,  your  path 
upon  the  ocean  would  be  peaceful. 

It  is  the  opinion  of  the  President,  as  well  as  my  own,  that  an  Expe- 
<liiion,  undertaken  to  promote  science,  and  extend  the  bounds  of  human 
knowledge,  ought  to  command  the  services  of  all  who  can  contribute 
to  its  success,  in  whatever  station  it  may  be  thought  most  advantageous 
to  place  them ;  and  I  venture  to  hope,  that  waiving  all  claim  to  superior 
rank,  you  will  accept  the  command  now  tendered  you. 

I  am,  sir,  respectfully  yours, 

(Signed)  J.  R.  Poinsett. 


III. 


After  Captain  Hudson  was  assured  that  a  General  Order  would  be 
published,  divesting  the  Expedition  of  its  military  character,  and  con- 
sulting Commodore  Ridgely, — well  known  in  the  service  for  his  high 
sense  of  honour,  and  thorough  knowledge  on  all  points  of  etiquette  and 
duty,  and  for  whose  judgment  he  had  great  respect,  whose  decided 
opinion  and  advice  was,  that  it  was  his  duty,  as  an  officer  of  the 
government,  under  the  circumstances  of  the  case,  to  accept  the  com- 
mand and  go  out  in  the  Expedition,— Captain  Hudson  sent  the  following 
acceptance. 


APPENDIX. 


353 


Sm, — 


U.  S.  Navy. Yard, 

New  York,  June  16th,  1838. 


rhe  peculiarly  delicate  situation  in  which  I  felt  myself  placed  in 
rehxtion  to  L.eutenan.  Wilkes,  must  be  my  excuse  ir  ,he  delay 
which  has  occurred  in  replying  to  your  communication  of  the  th 
mstant,  proffenng  to  me  the  situation  of  second  in  command  of  the 
Exploring  Expedition.  ^ 

The  coincidence  of  opinion  between  the  President  and  yourself  i„ 
lelation  to  its  character  in  a  military  point  of  view,  the  claLs  of  the 
nation  upon  the  services  of  its  officers,  with  the  very  flattering  surges 
.on  contained  m  your  letter,  have  outweighed  my  scruples.  ^I  thfrt 
fore,  from  a  sense  of  duty,  accept  the  command,  and  tender  i^y  belt 
services  to  promote  the  objects  of  the  Expedition,  and  advance  the 
honour  of  our  common  country. 

Very  respectfully,  yours. 
To  the  Hon.  Joel  R.  Poinsett,  (Signed)  Wm.  L.  Hudson. 

Secretary  of  War. 


The  following  order  was  issued : 


IV. 


NAVy  GENERAL  ORDER. 

The  armament  of  the  Exploring  Expedition,  being  adapted  merely 
for   Its   necessary  defence   while   engaged   in   the   examination   and 
stirvey  of  the  Southern  Ocean,  against  any  attempts  to  disturb  its 
operations  by  the  savage  and  warlike  inhabitants  of  those  islands; 
and  the  objects  which  it  is  destined  to  promote  being  altogether  scien- 
tific and  useful,  intended  for  the  benefit  equally  of  the  United  States 
and  of  all  commercial  nations  of  the  world;  it  is  considered  to  be 
entirely  divested  of  all  military  character,  that  even  in  the  event  of  the 
country  being  involved  in  a  war,  before  the  return  of  the  squadron 
Its  path  upon  the  ocean  will  be  peaceful,  and  its  pursuits  respected 
by  all  belligerents.     The  President  has,  therefore,  thought  proper  in 
assigning  officers  to  the  command  of  this  squadron,  to  depart  from 
the  usual  custom  of  selecting  them  from  the  senior  ranks  of  the  navy 
and  according  to  their  respective  grades  in  the  service;  and  has 
appointed  Lieutenant  Charles  Wilkes,  first  officer,  to  command  the 
Exploring  Expedition,  and  Lieutenant  William  L.  Hudson  to  command 

VOL.  I.  2E2  45 


354 


APPENDIX. 


the  ship  Peacock,  and  to  be  second  ofTicer  of  said  squadron,  and  take 
conunand  thereof,  in  the  event  of  tlie  death  of  the  firsi  olFicer,  or  his 
disabihty,  from  accident  or  sickness,  to  conduct  the  operations  of  the 
Expedition. 

(Signed)        Mahlon  Dickerson, 

Secretary  of  tlio  Navy 
Navy  Department,  Juno  23d,  1838. 


V. 


MEMORANDUM  FOR  THE  COMMANDER  OF  THE  EXPEDITION  TO  EXPLORE  THE 
SOUTH  SEAS,  BY  ADMIRAL  KRUSENSTERN. 


NoTK. — The  asterisk  after  the  number  of  some  of  these  articles,  denotes  that  tJie 
islands,  &c.,  have  been  examined  by  the  Expedition. 

I.  I  HAVE  pointed  out,  in  the  suppleinentary  volume  of  my  Hydro- 
graphical  Memoirs,  (pages  19,  96,  and  113,)  several  islands,  the 
existence  of  which  does  not  appear  to  be  subject  to  any  doubt,  but  of 
which  the  position  is  not  determined  with  the  best  precision.  It  is 
much  to  be  wished  that  all  such  islands  were  to  be  visited,  and  their 
position  verified.  With  respect  to  the  islands  of  rather  doubtful 
existence,  the  names  of  which  I  have  given,  (pages  150-105,  supple- 
ment,) there  is  certainly  no  other  method  of  ascertaining  their  ex- 
istence than  to  search  for  them,  and  to  determine,  with  the  greatest 
precision,  the  latitudes  and  longitudes  of  such  as  are  found.  A  great 
number  of  these  imaginary  islands  will  then,  of  course,  vanish  from 
the  charts. 

II.  Captain  Bligh  discovered,  in  the  year  1789,  to  the  northward  of 
the  New  Hebrides,  a  group  of  islands,  which  he  named  /?«?iAs',s- 
Islands ;  and  Captain  Wilson,  another  cluster  of  islands,  to  the  north- 
ward of  the  Santa  Cruz  Islands,  named  by  him  Dvjps  Grovp.  Neither 
these  nor  the  Bank  ;  Islands  having  been  since  seen,  it  would  be  well 
to  make  a  now  survey  of  them. 

III.  Islands  of  Santa  Cruz. — In  my  Memoir,  belonging  to  the  chart 
of  these  islands,  I  have  discussed  the  situation  of  Carteret's  SiraUow 
Island,  and  expressed  my  belief  that  the  islands  seen  by  Captain  Wilson 
in  1797  are  the  same  as  Swallow  Island.  Captain  Freycinet  is  of  the 
same  opinion,  and,  by  a  new  survey  of  Wilson's  Island,  confirmed  this 
hypothesis.  There  remains,  then,  no  doubt  that  Byron's  Swallow 
Island  does  not  exist ;  but,  as  it  still  continues  to  be  delineated  on  some 


A  P  P  K  N  D  I  X. 


805 


of  the  latest  r-harts,  it  wo.,l(|  bo  well  that  its  non-existence  should  be 
e(|ually  proved  l,y  the  Americ;i„  Exi.editioii. 

.    ^^IrP-l  ^"^'"T"   '•'••/'""/•^•— These  islan.ls  have  partly  been  visited 
byDUrviie  and  .Shorthmd.  partly  by  D'Entrecasteaux ;   and  several 
bnghsh  ships  have  at   .lillerent   times   sailed  through  them;    but  a 
complete  survey  of  all  the  islands  composing  this  great  archipelago  is 
«tdl  wanting.    It  is  indeed  very  singular  that,  of  all  the  navigators  who 
have  lately  visited  the  Pacific  Ocean,  no;ie  have  over  atte.npled  an-; 
Ui.ng  like  a  systematic  survey  of  these  islands,  with  the  exception  of 
DEntrecasteaux,  who,  at  least,  sailed  along  the  southern  islands,  from 
cast  to  west,  and  thus  greatly  iiu,.roved  the  hydrography  of  them.     I 
have  published,  in  the  year  1827,  a  chart  of  these  islands,  (Carte  Svs- 
tematique  de  I'Archipel  des  Isles  Salomon.)     Having  collected.all  the 
matena's  that  were  to  be  had  at  that  time,  many  of  them  in  apparent 
contradiction  to  each  other,  I  endeavoured  to  recoiu-ilc  them,  and  to 
delineate  the  islands  belonging  to  this  archipelago,  to  the  best  of  my 
judgment.     (An  account  of  my   proceedings  will   be  found  in   the 
Memoir   accompanying   my   chart.)     By   the   first   survey   of  these 
islands,  it  will  be  seen  whether  some  of  my  combinations  have  been 
well  founded  or  not.     The  Solomon  Islands  being  the  greatest  archi- 
pelago  ,n  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  the  least  known,  deserve,  no  doubt, 
to  be  as  completely  surveyed  as  the  Society,  Friendly,  or  other  groups. 
Although  ten  years  have  elapsed  since  my  chart  was  published,  nothing 
has  been  done  since  that  time  for  the  hydrography  of  these  islands,  to 
enable  me  to  improve  the  second  edition  of  that  chart,  (1830,)  excer.t 
m  the  situation  of  a  group  of  islands,  discovered  lately,  to  the  north- 
ward of  the  Solomon  Islands. 

Y.JVav  Caledonia.— K  dangerous  reef  has  lately  been  discovered  by 
the  ship  Petric,  to  the  northward  of  New  Caledonia;  the  precise  posi- 
tion  of  this  danger  ought  'o  be  determined. 

VI.  Loyalty  Islamls.-CaiAain  D'Urville  has  been  the  first  to  survey 
the  Loyalty  Islands ;  but  having  sailed  only  along  the  northern  side  of 
them.  It  IS  to  be  wished  that  the  southern  shore  might  also  be  surveyed. 
VII.*  ne  Fecjee  Islands.— CapXain  D'Urville  has  done  a  great  deal 
to  give  us  a  more  correct  chart  of  these  islands,  having  surveyed  a 
great  part  of  them;  but  still  he  has  left  unexplored  many  islands 
belonging  to  this  archipelago.  In  my  supplementary  memoir  to  the 
chart  of  these  islands,  I  have  endeavoured  to  combine  Captain  D'Ur- 
ville's  survey  with  such  surveys  as  had  been  made  previous  to  his 
voyage;  and  have  constructed,  according  to  all  the  data  that  have 
come  to  my  knowledge,  a  new  chart  of  ihc  Fecjee  Islands,  (named  by 
Camain  D'Urville,  Yiti  Islands.)     Of  .u.iirse  ihe  chart  cannot  be  very 


856 


APPENDIX. 


correct,  but  it  may  perfmps  servo  till  a  now  complete  survey  is  inarfc 
of  them. 

VHT.  JVivn  Ireland. — It  is  astonishing  that  nearly  two  conturios 
have  elri])sod  without  the  islands  situated  to  the  north  of  New  Iroland 
— iif^t  II  by  Tasman,  and  since  hy  Danipier  and  Bongninville — 
having  been  cxaniinod,  so  that  we  know  as  little  of  them  as  was  known 
one  hundred  and  lll'ty  years  ago.  Tliere  remains,  then,  to  be  made  a 
complete  survey  of  all  these  islands.  As  to  the  islands  near  them,  seen 
by  Mauroll,  it  is  not  likely  that  they  are  the  same,  as  some  have 
supposed.  This  is  ini  iln  r»,.,  ;on  why  they  should  be  all  explored  with 
the  greatest  precision. 

IX.  Adtnirahij  Islands. — It  is  much  to  be  wished  that  the  islands 
seen  by  Maurcll,  to  the  eastward  of  the  Great  Admiralty  Island,  should 
be  explored,  since  we  kn()\>'  that  Maurell's  account  of  his  discoveries 
does  not  satisfy  the  hydrograjjhcr. 

X.  JVew  Britain. — Admiral  D'Entrecasteaux  has  seen  and  deter- 
mined, with  his  usual  exactness,  the  islands  situated  aloii^'  the  north 
coast  of  New  Britain;  but  he  has  not  boon  able  to  lay  down  the  coast 
itself,  which  he  has  seen  only  at  a  distance,  and  some  ])arts  not  at  all. 

XI.*  Low  Islands. — Captain  Ilagcmuster,  of  the  Russian  navy, 
discovered,  in  the  year  1880,  an  island  to  the  westward  of  King 
George's  Islands.  This  island  cannot  be  any  other  than  Schouten's 
Waterlandt.  Captain  Wilson  sailed  between  two  islands,  which  he 
took  to  be  King  George's  Islands.  Most  navigators  have  been  of  the 
same  opinion  ;  although  there  is  a  diU'eroncc  of  longitude  of  morn  than 
a  degree  between  the  islands  seen  l)y  Wilson  and  King  George's 
Islands.  Captain  Duiierrey,  (an  excellent  authority,  as  every  hydro- 
grapher  will  readily  admit,)  is  of  a  dill'erent  opinion;  lie  maintains  that 
the  two  islands  between  which  Wilson  sailed  are  not  King  George's 
Islands,  but  are  situated  to  the  westward  of  them.  lie  thinks  thai  the 
island  seen  by  Captain  Hagemuster,  which  I  take  to  be  Waterlandt,  is 
one  of  the  two  islands;  and  that  Captain  Hagemuster  has  not  seen  the 
other.  In  order  to  refute  Captain  Duperrey's  hy|)otliesis,  the  second 
island,  which,  according  to  him,  Captain  Hagemuster  might  not  have 
perceived,  ought  to  be  searched  for,  to  the  westward  of  Captain  Hage- 
muster's  island ;  if  it  really  does  exist,  it  cannot  be  at  a  greater  distance 
than  about  fifteen  or  twenty  miles. 

XII.*  Commodore  Byron's  Is/es  of  Disapjmintment  have  not  been 
visited  since  their  first  discovery  in  1765.  I  have  endeavoured  to 
settle  their  longitude  at  140°  42'  W.  (page  87  of  my  supjjlemcnt) ;  but 
this  being  only  an  approximation,  they  ought  to  be  surveyed — at  leas* 
visited  anew. 


APPENDIX. 


86? 


MIL*  By  my  Memoirs,  |)aj,'o  281,  ,iml  supplntiicnt,  pago  90,  yoti  wil. 
pcrceivo  that  there  is  a  MWrwo  of  21'  h.tvvoen  Captain  Belli,,- 
hauson  s  and  Captain  Kotzobno's  longitn.lc  of  the  uest  p„int  of  Priner 
oy  «a/«..v  Mr«,/»  and  the  island  situato.l  u,  the  westward  of  it-f 
What  may  be  the  cause  of  this  ditlbrenco?  sinec  the  two  na<  I-ators 
do  not  dine.-,  either  before  or  after,  more  than  three  minutes.  Either 
tho  length  of  Vlighen  Islan.l  has  l,oen  overrated  by  Captain  Koi.el.uc, 
or  some  other  error  has  crept  into  the  longitude  of  either  the  one  or 
llic  other.  As  both  arc  excellent  observers,  it  would  be  very  .les» 
rabic  to  settle  this  point,  by  examining  and  surveying  carefully  all 
the  islands  lying  to  the  westward  and  eastward  of  Vlighen  Island 
and  determine  with  the  greatest  precision  the  width  of  the  chr  ;nels 
separating  the  ditlerent  islands,  as  well  as  the  exact  length  of  Vli-dicn 
or  Pnnce  of  Wales's  Island :  the  error  will,  ,nost  likely,  be  dete'^itcd 
m  the  length  of  that  isle. 

XIV.*  There  is  a  difference  of  17'  in  the  longitude  of  the  isle  Clrr- 
mont  de  nunerre  between  Captain  Dupcrrey  and  Captain  Beechey. 
At  herle  Island,  close  to  it,  there  is  hardly  any  ditrerencc  at  all.  The 
same  d,(rercnce  of  17'  exists  in  the  longitude  of  Prince  William  TTenry 
whieh  Caplam  Beechey  has  proved  to  be  the  same  with  Captain 
)upen-ey's  isle  LoHirigo;  whereas  at  Moflu  Muul,  both  Captains 
IJeechey  and  Duperrey  agre..  perfectly  well.  It  would  be  worth  while 
to  search  for  the  cause  of  such  anomalies. 

XV.*  Captain  Beechey  is  of  opinion  that  Captain  Duperrey's  isle 
Ucnnont  de  Tonnerre  is  one  an.l  the  same  with  the  island  of  Minerva 
Captain  Duperrey,  on  the  «  onti-a.y,  maintains  that  the  island  Minerva 
IS  the  same  as  Serle  Island.  I  an,  of  this  latter  opinion  ;  although  the 
solution  of  this  problem  will  much  depend  upon  the  distance  of  the 
island  Clermont  de  Tonnerre  from  Serle  Island,  which  is  much  less  on 
JJuperrey's  chart  than  on  Captain  Bi^echey's. 

XVI.*  There  has  been  lately  discovered  an  island  of  considerable 
extent,  of  the  name  of  Raraka.  It  would  be  well  to  examine  it,  since 
the  account  given  of  it  is  not  quite  satisfactory.  It  is  stated  to  be 
situated  in  10°  3'  S.,  and  M.-,°  0'  W. 

Xyil.*  I  have  placed  on  my  chart  of  the  Low  Islands,  several 
islands,  the  position  of  which  is  rather  doubtful;  for  instance,  the 
Bunycr's  Group  of  Turnbull,  the  island  of  Britomart,  the  islands  dis- 
covered  by  Quiros,  and  several  others.  In  order  to  have  any  -ertainty 
about  their  existence  and  precise  position,  it  is  necessary  to  search  for 
and  make  a  survey  of  them. 

•  On  Hon.c  charts  this  island  is  named  Dean's  lalc  ;  on  n.y  rharfs  Vlighen  Islo 
+  By  Captain  Porter  called  Gamble;  hy  Captain  Kotzebue,  KruHcnstern  Island. 


398 


APPENDIX. 


XVIIl.*  The  Manih  of  San  Bvrnanh  and  the  Mauds  nf  Danger, — 
Mendane  discovcrtid  ii  group  of  islands,  jinmi'd  by  him  San  Hernardo. 
Those  islands  have  been  scon  by  Captains  Froycinot  and  ntllinghauscn. 
Not  far  from  tfioin  IJyron  discovered  a  small  group,  which  ho  named 
Islands  of  Danger.  Nt)twithstanding  a  ditVeix'nce  of  latitude  of  half  a 
degree,  the  two  groups  have  been  considered  as  one  and  the  same.  Ii 
has  not  been  thought  iinjiossiblo  that  in  Byron's  latitudes  there  might 
have  been  a  typographical  error :  besides,  none,  of  all  the  navigators 
^ho  have  passetl  here,  have  ever  found  a  sec^ond  group,  which  they 
could  not  have  missed  if  it  really  existed.  Captain  Dnpcrroy,  how- 
ever, who  is,  as  I  have  said  above,  a  high  authority  in  whatever  relates 
to  the  hydrography  of  the  South  Seas,  is  of  a  diflerent  opinion:  ho 
maintains  that  Byron's  Islands  of  Danger  do  exist.  In  order  to  settle 
that  (juostion,  it  is  necessary  to  starch  under  the  meridian  of  thu 
islands  San  Bernardo,  as  determined  by  Captain  Bellinghauson,  foi 
these  Islands  of  Danger  in  the  latitude  assigned  to  them  by  Byron,  as 
well  as  for  the  chain  of  rocks  of  which  he  speaks,  and  which  are 
situated,  according  to  him,  to  the  eastward.  This  has  not  been  done 
yet,  and  it  would  be  very  desirable  if  it  was  done,  in  order  not  to  leave 
the  least  doubt  on  the  subject. 

XIX.*  Marianne  Islands. — On  Captain  Freycinet's  chart  there  is  to 
be  seen,  to  the  southwest  of  the  island  of  Assumption,  rocks,  by  the 
name  of  Mary's.  Rocks  of  the  same  name  have  been  seen  by  La 
Perouso,  to  the  northward  of  Assumption  Island.  In  case  the  Expedi- 
tion should  extend  its  exploratory  researches  to  the  northern  hemi- 
sphere, this  doubtful  point  should  be  settled. 

XX.*  Caroline  Islands. — These  islands  have  been  so  well  surveyed 
by  Captain  Dupcrrey  and  Captain  Liitke,  that  there  is  very  little  now 
left  to  be  done  concerning  them.  I  shall,  however,  point  out  here  some 
islands  that  rc(iuirc  to  be  determined  with  great  precision :  1.  The 
island  named  by  Captain  Moroll,  Fasolis,  is  most  likely  the  same  with 
Captain  Liitke's,  Farroilep ;  but  a  diflerence  of  21'  in  latitude,  makes 
this  doubtful.  2.  Island  Li/dia,  on  Captain  Duperrey's  chart.  We  do 
not  know  by  whom  it  has  been  discovered,  nor  who  has  determined  its 
situation.  3.  I  have  endeavoured  to  prove,  in  my  Supplementary 
Memoir  of  the  CaroUne  Islands,  that  the  islands  Bordelairc,  Fame, 
Campbell,  and  the  island  St.  Augustine,  are  one  and  the  same.  This 
hypothesis  requires  to  be  verified.  4.  The  Monteverde  Islands  ought 
to  be  surveyed;  what  Captains  Monteverde  and  Morell,  the  only 
navigators  who  have  seen  them,  have  said  of  them,  is  not  sufficiently 
satisfactory.  5.  We  see  on  Captain  Duperrey's  chart  of  the  Caroline 
Islands,  several   islands^  of  which  we  know  nothing  more  than  the 


APPENDIX. 


350 


name,  viz. :  Bumkay's,  Quckin's,  Jkr...  ari.l  tlioir  cxislenco  and  position 
remain  to  bo  ascertained.  0.  Tlio  island  of  Arrccifos  has,  so  far  as 
my  knowledge  extends,  been  .seen  only  by  the  ship  Providenee,  in  the 
year  1811.  Not  knowing  much  respecting  it,  it  is  to  be  wislied  that  it 
should  bo  surveyed. 

XXI.*  The  Island  of  Gilhrrt.— At  tfio  end  of  my  supplementary 
volume,  I  have  pointed  out  what  remains  to  be  done  in  order  to  have 
a  perfect  knowledge  of  nil  the  islands  belonging  to  this  archiimlago. 

/ffWirtrA.— Independent  of  the  American  Exploratory  Expt^lition, 
there  arc  to  be  nt  the  same  time  three  others  in  the  South  "^eas :  two 
English  and  one  French  expedition.  Many  of  the  isl-.nds  will  of 
course  bo  visited  by  all  the  exjjeditions ;  and  it  is  to  be  apprehended 
that  their  longitudes,  determined  by  the  difTerent  astronomers  of  the 
expeditions,  will,  perhaps,  not  agree  so  well  as  might  be  wished.  This 
dilliculty  will  of  course  be  obviated,  by  referring  their  astronomical 
observations  to  the  longitudes  of  such  places  as  are  determined  by 
absolute  astronomical  observations  with  the  greatest  precision,  and 
those  most  likely  to  be  visited  by  the  ships  of  the  expeditions.  The 
positions  we  have  in  the  South  Seas,  are  Point  Venus,  in  longitude  119" 
29'  17"  W.,  determined  by  the  passage  of  Venus  over  the  disk  of  the 
sun;  Port  Ilonohiht,  in  the  island  of  Oaho,  by  occultation  of  several 
stars,  in  202°  10'  E. ;  and  Port  Jackson,  Sydney  Cove,  in  151°  17'  E.,  by 
an  eclipse  of  the  sun.  In  the  northern  j^irt  of  the  Pacific,  East  Cape 
139°  10'  10"  R,  may  be  adopted  as  a  well-fixed  point,  although  not 
determined  by  absolute  astronomical  observations.  With  respecUo  the 
coast  cf  South  America,  Talcahvana,  the  longitude  of  which  was  deter- 
mined L>y  Captain  Beechey,  to  be  in  72°  50'  59"  W.,  seems  to  me  a 
well-determined  point.  Captain  Duperrcy  is  not  of  that  opinion  ;  and 
it  remains  to  be  settled  whether  the  longitude  of  Talcahuana,  or  Valpa- 
raiso, in  71°  33'  34"  W.,  deserves  the  preference. 

a.   n  .       ..  ■.  f.„    .„„  KrUSENSTERN 

St.  Petersburg,  January  2C,  18.37. 


VI. 


Sir, — 


U.  S.  Ship  VinceiuiCB, 

Hampton  Roads,  August  14th,  1838. 


I  have  the  honour  to  state,  that  since  my  arrival  here,  I  have 
examined  the  General  Requisition,  complained  of  by  Commodore 
Warrington  and  the  Commissioners  of  the  Navy,  and  find  (as  I  was 
well  aware  was  the  case)  it  duly  approved  by  me. 


360 


APPENDIX. 


The  articles  that  were  stricken  off  the  Requisition,  were  the  most 
necessary  for  us  of  any  thing  contained  therein ;  and  I  regret  to  say, 
that  in  consequence  of  the  objections  to  allow  indispensable,  articles 
for  the  service  we  are  going  on,  we  shall  be  obliged  to  go  to  sea  mucli 
less  efficient  than  we  would  had  they  been  furnished,  and  which  will 
compel  me  to  subject  the  government  to  pay  quadruple  prices  for  the 
same  articles  at  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

I  have  to  request,  that  you  will  show  this  letter  to  the  Honourable 
Commissioners  of  the  Navy,  in  order  to  notify  them  that  the  Requi- 
sition was  not  irregularly  drawn,  but  duly  approved  by  myself,  and 
consequently  assumed  as  my  act. 

I  have  the  honour,  &c., 

CuAi'XEs  Wilkes, 
Commanding  Exploring  Expedition, 
Hon.  Ja';.  K.  Paulding, 

Secretary  of  tlie  Navy,  Washington. 


U.  S,  Ship  Vincenncs, 

Hampton  Roads,  August  1 8th,  1838. 
SiK, — 

I  have  this  morning  ascertained  that  only  one  set  of  pump-gear  is 
on  board  this  vessel,  and  one  on  board  the  Peacock,  which  are  now 
in  use. 

The  pumps  of  the  Vincenncs  are  6|  inches. 
2  "  Peacock      "    6        " 

2  "  "  "    6} 

We  are  now  oiherwise  ready  for  sea,  but  cannot  sail  without  these, 
as  they  cannot  be  obtained  elsewhere ;  also  two  kedges  are  required, 
and  a  hose  for  the  pumps,  and  pipe  for  the  hose  of  the  forcing-pump, 
and  an  iron  brake  for  the  Vincennes. 

I  have  to  request  the  favour  of  you  to  direct  that  three  complete  sets 
of  pump-boxes,  &c.,  for  each  vessel,  may  be  furnished  to-doy. 

All  these  articles  have  been  repeatedly  called  for  by  the  officers  from 
this  ship,  but  without  success. 

I  am,  most  respectfully,  sir. 

Your  most  obedient  servant, 

Charles  Wilkes, 
Commanding  Exploring  Expedition, 
Commodore  L.  Warrington, 

Navy- Yard,  Gosport,  Va. 


APPENDIX. 


361 


VII. 


Sm,— 


U,  S.  Ship  Vinccnnes, 

At  Sea,  August  22(1, 1838. 


You  will  proceed  with  all  practicable  despatch  to  Port  Praya,  in  the 
island  of  St.  Jago,  whore  you  will  remain  five  days,  nnd  then  proceed 
to  Rio  de  Janeiro,  where  you  will  await  further  orders. 

During  your  stay  at  Port  Praya,  you  will  fill  up  with  water,  and 
supply  your  crew  fully  with  fresh  provisions  and  vegetables. 

You  will  leave  a  communication  with  the  consTil  of  that  port  on 
your  departure  addressed  to  me,  in.case  you  should  not  hear  from  me 
before  that  period. 

I  am,  &c., 

Charles  Wilkes, 
To  Lieut.  Com.  A.  K.  Long,  Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

U.  S.  Ship  Relief 

U.  S.  Ship  Vinccnnes, 
g     At  Sea,  August  22d,  1838. 

Should  you  arrive  at  Rio  do  Janeiro  before  this  ship,  you  will  inform 
the  navy  agent  there,  that  about  twenty-five  thousand  pounds  of  bread 
w.ll  be  required  at  that  port  for  the  Exploring  Expedition,  on  our 
arrival  there,  and  request  him  to  have  the  same  prepared,  of  the  first 
quality,  that  there  may  be  no  detention. 

I  am,  &c., 

Chaeles  Wilkes. 
A.  K.  Long,  Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

Licutenant-CJommojidant  Relief. 


VIII. 


GENERAL  OI!^ER. NO.  I. 

The  squadron  being  now  ready  tor  sea,  the  undersigned.  Commander 
of  the  Exploring  Expedition,  takes  this  opportunity  to  return  his  warmest 
thanks  to  the  oncers,  scientific  gentlemen,  scamoii,  and  marines,  for  the 
UKlefutigable  rxertions  they  have  made  in  equipping  the  vessels  in  their 
several  aepartments:  being  well  aware  (hat  had  it  not  been  for  the 
individual  and  united  exertions  of  all,  the  preparations  could  not  have 
been  accomplished  in  the  short  space  of  time  they  luive  been;  and  he 

VOL.  I.  SF  4(') 


362 


APPENDIX. 


0- 
I 


feels  confident  that  the  same  licarty  zeal  and  co-operation  will  carry  us 
successfully  through  the  arduous  service  in  which  we  have  embarked. 

To  all  the  officers  of  the  Expedition  the  undersigned  would  remark. 
that  every  feeling  which  a  devotion  to  such  a  cause  can  inspire,  is  felt 
oy  him ;  and  that  every  thing  will  be  looked  to,  which  can  tend  to 
insure  success  in  this  undertaking,  may  be  confidently  relied  on. 

Harmony  and  good  feeling  he  would  enjoin  upon  all ;  the  necessity 
of  cultivating  this,  and  the  united  exertions  of  all,  cannot  claim  too 
much  of  your  attention.  Continue  as  you  have  commenced,  and  rest 
assured  that  we  shall  be  successful  in  meeting  the  expectations  of  oui 
country. 

You  may  rest  assured  also  of  receiving  impartial  justice  from  me, 
and  that  in  the  assignment  of  duties  and  promotions,  if  any  should 
occur ;  and  that  all  will  have  the  opportunities  they  desire  of  entering 
upon  the  scientific  duties,  nothing  shall  be  wanting  that  can  tend  to 
this  end. 

To  the  scientific  gentlemen,  I  have  only  to  say,  that  they  are,  and 
always  w-ill  be  considered  as  one  of  us,  and  that  every  opportunity 
will  be  given  them  that  can  be  imagined  by  the  undersigned  or  suggested 
by  them,  to  promote  the  success  of  the  Expedition,  in  their  particular 
departments.  My  conduct  towards  them  will  be  the  same  as  towards 
the  officers  with  whom  they  are  associated. 

Those  composing  the  crews  of  the  several  vessels  of  the  squadron, 
may  be  assured  that  every  thing  will  be  done  to  promote  their  comfort, 
and  every  indulgence  granted  them  compatible  with  the  interests  of  the 
service  ;  and  it  is  confidently  expected  that  they  will  strictly  conform 
to  the  rules  and  regulations  of  the  navy,  and  of  the  squadron ;  and  thai 
the  same  respect  for  their  officers,  good  conduct,  and  good  feeling  for 
each  other,  will  exist  at  all  times. 

(Signed)         Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition, 
U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes. 


IX. 


ORDERS  RESPECTING  THE  RECEIPT,  SAFE-KEEPING,  AND  EXPENDITURE  OF 
PROVISIONS,  STORES,  ETC. 


A  RETURN  of  all  stores  and  provisions  will  be  made  before  sailing. 
and  thereafter,  on  the  1st  of  each  month,  of  all  stores  and  provision? 
on  hand  and  expended. 

The  Relief  having  a  large  proportion  of  stores  on  hand,  no  expen- 


APPENDIX. 


363 


diture  of  stores   will   take   place,  unless   by  a  requisition   approved 
by  me. 

Great  care  and  economy  of  stores  is  enjoined  upon  the  commanders 
in  regard  to  the  expenditures  of  provisions  and  stores ;  and  much  is 
expected,  in  regard  to  their  preservation  and  expenditure,  from  the 
well-known  prudence  and  attention  of  the  officer  commanding  the 
Relief.  ^ 

The  attention  of  the  commanders  of  the  respective  vessels  is  parti- 
cularly called  to  the  expenditure  of  wood,  and  every  precaution  is 
enjoined  for  its  economical  consumption. 

The  monthly  returns  will  not  only  embrace  the  actual  condition  of 
the  provisions  and  stores,  but  the  quantity  of  wood,  water,  &c.,  on 
hand,  and  expended. 

Charles  Wilkes, 

„  „  „, .  Commanding  Explorinff  Expedition. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Hampton  Roacg,  August  14th,  1838. 


* 


X. 

GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  RELATIVE  TO  OBSERVATIONS. 

The  surgeon  and  his  assistants  will  take  the  meteorological  obser- 

and  9  a.  m.  ;   viz,  the  standing  of 


p.  M. 


A.  M., 


vations  at  3  p.  m.,  9 

barometer,  thermometer,  and  hygrometer. 

The  temperature  at  the  masthead,  and  that  of  the  water,  wind, 
weather,  and  the  force  of  the  wind,  the  quantity  of  rain,  &c. ;  the 
officers  of  the  watch  will  note  and  make  any  remarks  of  their  own, 
regarding  i'acts  that  may  have  occurred,  (during  their  watch,)  in  the 
meteorological  journal:  all  astronomical  and  atmospherical  pheno- 
mena, it  is  desired  may  claim  attention,  and  be  noted  under  their 
respective  heads.  Astronomical  phenomena,  such  as  shooting  stars, 
zodiacal  lights,  aurora  borealis,  the  height  of  their  arcs,  their  colours, 
&c.,  measured  and  the  direction  they  take  in  the  heavens.  Atmo- 
spherical phenomena,  such  as  rainbows,  halos,  water-spouts,  lightning, 
appearance  of  the  clouds,  rain,  the  Magellanic  clouds,  to  be  noted  when 
first  observed ;  in  short,  any  unusual  appearance  connected  with  the 
weather. 

Of  the  sea,  all  phosphorescent  lights,  fishes,  and  all  substances 
adhering  to  weeds,  must  not  fail  to  claim  attention,  and  specimens  of 
them  obtained.  Fish  caught  must  be  preserved  till  opened  in  the 
presence  of  an  officer,  and  their  stomachs  carefully  exauiined,  and  if 
any  thing  is  found,  it  must  be  taken  care  ot". 

Things  and  animals  that  might  in  ordinary  cases  be  deemed  trouble- 


!'H??|,!i 


364 


APPENDIX. 


some  and  useless,  are  not  to  be  'ost  sight  of,  but  are  to  be  picked  up 
for  examination. 

Every  oiiportunity  of  trying  the  current  must  be  taken  advantage  of, 
and  marked. 

Astronomical  observations,  viz.,  lunar  distances  of  the  stars,  east, 
and  west  of  the  moon,  of  the  sun,  and  of  the  planets,  to  be  frequently 
taken. 

Observations  for  chronometers  must  be  taken  daily,  mornings  and 
afternoons,  when  the  weather  will  permit;  azimuths  and  amplitudes, 
at  least  once  or  twice  a  day,  in  the  morning,  or  in  the  afternoon,  and 
the  ship's  head  noted  at  the  same  time. 

Any  of  the  officers  (among  whom  are  considered  the  scientific 
gentlemen)  will  on  all  occasions  promote  the  objects  of  the  Expedition 
by  procuring  any  article  referred  to  in  the  foregoing  instructions,  or 
aiding  in  carrying  into  eflect  the  same.  And  the  officer  of  the  deck 
is  authorized  to  stop  the  ship's  way,  and  perform  any  evolution  with  a 
view  of  carrying  inio  eflect  the  above,  in  which  case  he  will  report 
the  same  immediately  to  me,  if  time  does  not  permit  his  doing  so 
previously. 

It  is  necessary  for  the  sea-officers  to  make  themselves  thoroughly 
acquainted  with  the  heavenly  constellations,  in  order  to  be  efficient  in 
noting  the  course  of  liieteors,  &c. 

CHARTiES  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Exp'^dition 
U.  S.  Ship  VinccnncB, 

At  Sea,  August  25  th,  1838. 


XI. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennos, 

At  Sea,  August  25th,  1838. 

Ttie  undersigned,  commanding  the  Exploring  Expedition,  in  com- 
municating the  following  instructions,  from  the  Navy  I>cpartmcnt,  for 
the  government  and  inforn.ation  of  those  under  his  command,  directs 
the  particular  attention  of  all  persons  in  the  Expedition  to  the  same, 
and  especially  to  that  part  of  them,  which  prohibits  any  one  furnishing 
to  persons  not  attached  to  the  Exploring  Expediti(Hi,  any  cotntiui- 
nications  wliich  have  reference  to  the  objects  or  proceedings  of  the 
Expedition. 

"Although  the  primary  object  of  the  Expedition  is  the  promotion  of 
the  gnjat  interests  of  commerce  and  navigation,  yet  yuu  will  take  al' 
occasions,  not  incompatible  with  the  great  purpose  of  your  under- 
taking, to  extend  tiie  bounds  of  science,  and  promote  tiio  accjuisition 
of  knov/ledije.     For  the  more  successful  attainment  of  this,  a  corps  of 


APPENDIX. 


see 


scientific  gontleinen,  consisting  of  the  following  persons,  wiil  accom- 
pany the  Expedition,  and  are  placed  u.ider  your  direction. 


Naturalists. 


Mr.  Hale,  Philologist, 

Mr.  Pickering, 

Mr.  Peale, 

Mr.  Coutiiouy,  Conchologist. 

Mr.  Rich,  Botanist. 

Mr.  Dana,  Mineralogist. 

Mr.  Drayton, 

Mr.  Agate, 

Mr.  Bkackenridge,  Horticulturist. 


Draughtsmen. 


"  The  hydrography  and  geography  of  the  various  seas  and  countries 
you  may  visit  in  the  rout«.<  pointed  out  to  you  in  the  preceding  instruc- 
tions, will  occupy  your  special  attention;  and  oil  the  researches 
connected  with  them,  as  well  as  with  astronomy,  terrestrial  magnet- 
ism, and  meteorology,  are  confined  exclusively  to  the  oificers  of  the 
Navy,  on  whose  zeal  and  talents  the  Department  confidently  relies 
for  such  results  as  will  enable  fijture  navigators  to  pass  over  the  track 
traversed  by  your  vessels,  without  fear  and  witiiout  danger. 

"No  special  directions  are  thought  necessary,  as  to  the  mode  of 
conducting  the  scientific  researches  and  experiments  which  you  are 
enjoined  to  prosecute,  nor  is  it  iuten  led  to  limit  the  members  of  the 
corps  each  to  his  own  jiarticular  service. 

"  All  are  expected  to  co-operate  harmoniously  in  those  kindred  pur- 
suits, whose  eciual  dignity  and  usefulness  shoidd  insure  equal  ardour 
and  industry  in  extending  their  bounds  and  verifying  their  principle?. 

"  As  guides  to  yourscll"  and  to  the  scientific  corps,  the  Department 
would,  however,  direct  your  particular  attention  to  the  lear/ied  and 
comprehensive  Report  of  a  committee  of  the  American  Philosophical 
Society  of  Philadelpiiia,  fiie  Report  of  a  Committee  of  the  East  India 
Marine  Society  of  Salem,  Massachusetts  and  to  a  communication 
from  the  Naval  Lyceum  of  New  York,  which  accompany,  and  arc  to 
be  regarded  as  forming  a  part  of  these  instructions,  as  fiir  as  they  may 
accord  with  the  primary  objects  of  the  Expedition,  and  its  present 
organization.  You  will,  therefore,  allow  the  gentlemen  of  the  scientific 
corps  tlic  free  perusal  of  these  valuable  documents,  and  permit  them  to 
cop.'  r,.    -!  portions  as  they  may  think  proi)er. 

•■T('.'  Russian  Vice-Admiral,  Krusenstcrn,  transmitted  to  the  De- 

partnicjt  memorandums  relating  to  the  objects  of  this  Expedition, 

together  with  the  most  approved  charts  of  his  Atlas  of  the  Pacific 

Ocean,  with  explanations,  in  three  voimnes.     These  are  also  confided 

to  your  care,  and   it  is  not  doubted  tiiat  the  friendiv  contvibntion  of 
'>  !■•  ■-• 


"% 

lijil 


i 


366 


APPENDIX. 


this  distinguished  navigator,  will  essentially  contribute  to  the  success 
of  an  enterprise  in  which  he  takes  so  deep  an  interest.     It  being 
considered  highly  important,  that  no  j\i'irnal  of  this  voyage,  either 
partial  or  complete,  should  be  published,  without  the  authority  and 
under   the   supervision   of   the  government,   at   whose   expense  this 
Expedition  is  undertaken,  you  will,  before  you  reach  the  waters  of 
the  United  States,  require  from  every  person  under  your  command, 
the  surrender  of  all  journals,  memorandums,  remarks,  writings,  draw- 
ings, sketches,  and  paintings,  as  well  as  all  specimens  of  every  kind, 
collected  or  prepared  during  your  absence  from  the  United 'States! 
After  causing  correct  inventories  of  these  to  be  made,  and  signed  by 
two  commissioned  officers,  and  by  the  parties  by  whom  they  were 
collected  or  prepared,  you  will  cause  thein  to  be  carefully  sealed  by 
the  Eild  officers,  and  reserved  for  such  disposition  as  the  Department 
may  direct.     You  will  adopt  the  most  efficient  measures  to  prepare 
and  preserve  all  specimens  of  natural  history  that  may  be  collected ; 
and  should  any  opportunity  occur  for  sending  them  home  by  a  vessel 
of  vvar  of  the  United  States,  also  copies  of  information,  duplicates  of 
sp'^cimens,  or  any  other  materials,  you  may  deem  important  to  pre- 
serve from  future  accident,  you  will  avail  yourself  of  the  occasion; 
forwarding,  as  frequently  as  may  be  done  with  safety,  d^^tails  of  your 
voyage,  and  its  most  material  events ;  at  the  same  time  strictly  pro- 
hibiting   all   communications,  except  to  this   Department,  from  any 
person  attached  to  the  Expedition,  referring  to  discoveries,  or  any 
circumstances  connected  with  the  progress  of  your  enterprise. 

"It  is  believed  that  tiie  officers  under  your  command  require  no 
special  advice  or  direction  from  this  Department.  Bearing  in  m.ind, 
as  they  no  doubt  wiil,  that  the  undertaking  in  which  they  are  about 
assisting  to  accomplish,  is  one  that  necessarily  attracts  the  attention 
of  the  civilized  world,  and  that  the  honour  and  in'erest  of  their  country 
are  equally  involved  in  its  results,  it  is  not  for  a  moment  doubted,  hut 
thai  in  this,  as  on  all  other  occasions,  they  will  so  conduct  themselves 
as  to  add  to  the  reputation  our  navy  has  so  justly  acquired  at  home 
and  abroad. 

"  With  the  best  wishes  for  the  success  of  the  Expedition,  and  the 
■  afe  return  of  yourself  and  your  companions, 

"  1  am,  very  respectfully,  &c., 

(Signed)      «  Jas.  K.  PauldxNg, 

„  "Secretary  of  Die  Navy 

"  Navy  Department,  Aujfust  1 1th,  1838." 

(Signed)         Chaelks  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition 


APPENDIX. 


367 


XII. 


GENERAL  ORDER. 


All  the  officers  of  *he  Exploring  Expedition  will  be  required  to 
conform  to  the  rules  and  regulations  of  the  ervioe,  by  keeping  a 
journal  during  the  cruise,  which  they  will  send  to  the  commander  oflhc 
ship  to  which  he  may  be  attached,  weekly. 

This  journal  will  contain  the  daily  reckoning,  distances,  bearings, 
&c.,  of  the  ship  when  at  sea;  also,  a  full  record  (with  such  observa- 
tions and  remarks  as  may  present  themselves)  in  relation  to  all 
occurrences  or  objects  of  interest,  which  may,  at  the  time,  be  consi- 
dered  even  of  the  least  importance,  and  which  may  come  under  the 
observation  of  the  officers,  whether  on  board  ship  or  on  shore,  and  may 
tend  to  illustrate  any  transaction  or  occurrence  which  may  take  place, 
or  afford  any  information  in  regard  to  the  manners,  habits,  or  customs 
of  natives,  and  the  position  and  characters  of  such  places  as  may  be 
visited.  The  journals  required  by  this  order  will  be  disposed  of 
agreeably  to  the  directions  of  the  Honourable  Secretary  of  the  Navy 
and  It  is  expected  that  they  will  be  as  full  and  complete  as  possible. 

(Signed)         Charles  Wilkes, 
U.  S.  Ship  VincenneB,  Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

At  Sea,  September  13th,  1838. 


XIII. 


Sin, — 


U.  S.  Ship  Vinceimes, 

At  Sea,  September  13th,  1838. 


As  the  officers  may  not  understand  the  kind  of  journal  it  is  necessary 
for  them  to  keep,  I  take  this  occasion  to  make  known  the  expectations 
of  the  government  and  my  wishes  respecting  this  part  of  their  duty, 
which  I  consider  as  paramount  to  all  others. 

1st.  The  duties  devolving  upon  all  the  officers  of  this  Expedition  arc 
altogether  of  a  public  nature,  and  it  is  incumbent  on  me  to  say, 
require  of  them  to  bestow  then-  consUmt  and  devoted  attention  to  a'll 
incidents,  facts,  or  occurrences,  which  may  present  themselves,  in 
order  that  hereafter  they  may  (if  necessary)  verify  or  confirm  by  their 
testimony  any  information  in  relation  to  ihe  same,  and  thereby  place 
the  evidence  beyond  a  doubt.    This  can  only  be  etfected  by  keeping 


if 


368 


APPENDIX. 


full  and  coiiijilctc  memorandu  of  all  observations,  made  at  the  time 
and  entered  in  the  journals. 

2d.  I  consider  it  of  gr(!!it  importance,  that  every  officer  should  know 
the  a'ctual  situation  of  the  ship,  from  his  own  calculations,  tliat  when 
called  upon  at  any  moment,  he  might  be  able  to  refer  to  his  own 
journal  for  the  results.  On  this  might  possibly  depend  the  safety  and 
ultimate  success  of  the  Expedition,  as  one  or  two  might  fall  into  error, 
but  it  is  not  likely  that  many  woidd. 

3d.  The  kind  of  journal  required  is  not  a  mere  copy  of  the  log-board. 
but  it  is  a  diary,  in  which  will  be  noticed  all  that  relates  to  public 
information,  being  a  record  of  all  objects  of  interest,  however  small, 
which  may  take  place  during  the  cruise,  in  the  scientific  or  any  otiior 
department :  and  ihr  views  of  the  officer  ought  to  be  briefly  expressed 
concerning  things  iiay  come  under  his  notice.     The  very  record 

that  nothing  has  t        ^)ired  during  the  day,  may  be  of  use ;  but  it  is 
believed  that  this  will  be  of  rare  occurrence. 

The  whole  will  form  a  mass  of  evidence  for  the  use  of  the  govern- 
ment on  our  return,  which  will  tend  to  illustrate  and  make  clear  the 
transactions  and  occurrences  that  may  have  taken  place,  as  well  as 
the  habits,  manners,  customs,  &c.,  of  the  natives,  and  the  positions, 
descriptions,  and  character  of  such  places;  as  we  may  visit. 

These  memoranda  are  highly  essential  to  me,  in  order  that  nothintr 
may  be  neglected  or  overlooked  in  conducting  the  Expedition  to  a 
successful  issue,  in  which  we  are  all  so  deeply  interested.  I  wish 
particularly  to  avail  myself  of  the  results  and  obs-  -vations  of  all,  to 
avoid  the  possibility  of  passing  over  any  subject  without  full  examina- 
tion and  remark. 

A  casual  memorandum  or  observation,  boliev'od  at  the  time  of  little 
importance,  may  lead  to  important  and  satisfactory  results.  These 
journals,  therefore,  will  become  a  useful  medium  of  communication 
between  the  officers  and  myself,  relative  to  the  scientific  and  other 
duties  in  progress. 

I  trust  I  need  not  remark  that  the  above  relates  entirely  to  public 
transactions.  With  private  affairs  I  have  nothing  to  do :  they  are,  and 
always  should  be  deemed  sacred,  and,  consequently,  will  form  no  par! 
of  the  records. 

I  enclose  a  special  order  relating  to  this  subject,  which  you  will 
proD'iilLMiL'  to  the  officers  of  this  ship. 

I  am,  respectfully,  &c., 

CnAiir.Ks  Wir.KFs, 
Thomas  T.Craven-,  Commanding  Exploring  Expedition 

FirHt  Lieutenant,  Vincennes. 


As  it  { 
Auditor, 
Explorin, 
Navy  Di 
General 
obligatini 
without 
proper  a; 
to  check 
command 

To  Messrf 


Sir,— 

It  was 
Hampton 
received  i 
now  in  t 
November 

I  flatter* 
that  had  o 
apple  of  d 
that  part  o 

I  presiii 
mischiief  ii 
tion,  if  cai 

As  it  ap 
had  been  ii 
and  with  a 
in  the  Expc 
bounty  refe 
also  a  lette 
No.  2  ;  I  tE 
by  Commo 

VOL.  I. 


APPENDIX. 


XIV. 


360 


U.  S,  Ship  VinconncB, 

At  Sea,  September  14th,  1838. 

As  it  appears  to  me  that  the  bounty  recently  directed  by  the  Fourth 
Auditor,  to  be  checked  against  the  marines  now  attached  to  the 
^xploring  Expedition,  was  given  to  them  by  the  authority  of  the 
Navy  Department,  through  Commodore  Jones,  (as  appeals  by  hi. 
General  Order,  No.  1,)  not  as  recruits,  but  in  consideration  of  their 
obhgatmg  thcnselves  to  serve  during  the  cruise  of  the  Expedition, 
without  reference  to  their  term  of  service;  I  deem  it,  therefore, 
proper  and  just  to  order  the  Pursers  of  the  Exploring  Expedition  no. 
to  check  the  bounty  against  the  marines  of  the  squadron  under  mv 
command.  ^ 

(Signed)         Charles  Wilk-  .. 
To  Messrs.  R.  R.  Waldron  and  Wm.  Sp.eden,  ^'""""'""'"■g  Exploring  Expedition 

Pursers,  U.  S.  N. 


SlR,- 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  September  14th,  1838. 


It  was  with  much  surprise  I  learnt,  a  few  days  atic.  sailing  fron. 
Hampton  Roads,  that  the  pursers  of  the  Exploring  Expedition  had 
received  instructions  from  the  Fourth  Auditor  to  check  the  marines 
now  m  the  Exploring  Expedition  with  the  bounty  paid  them  in 
November,  1837,  by  order  of  Commodore  Jones. 

I  flattered  myself  that  I  had,  on  sailing,  overcome  all  the  obstacles 
that  had  occurred,  and  I  was  not  a  little  excited  on  finding  that  a  new 
apple  ot  discord  had  been  thrown  into  the  squadron,  and  particularly 
that  part  of  it  so  valuable  and  necessary  as  the  marines. 

1  presume,  however,  this  has  been  done  without  a  knowledge  of  the 
mischief  It  might  produce  in  the  efficiency  and  progress  of  the  Expedi- 
tion, if  carried  into  eflbct. 

As  it  appears  that  some  of  the  marines  who  received  this  bounty 
had  been  in  the  service  a  long  time,  aaid  none  of  them  were  recruits 
and  with  a  view  of  preventin-  any  mischievous  eflects  upon  those  now 
in  the  Expedition,  I  have  issued  oii  order  to  the  pursers  not  to  check  the 
bounty  referred  to ;  a  copy  of  which  is  herewith  encl,«ed,  marked  No.  1  • 
also  a  letter  from  Sergeant  Stearn.s,  in  elation  to  the  subject,  marked 
J\o.  2 ;  I  take  leave  a,so  to  enclose  a  coi.y  of  the  General  Order  issuc<l 
by  Commodore  Jones  to  the  Exploring  Expedition  in  October,  1837 

VOL.  I.  4'7 


370 


APPENDIX. 


marked  No.  3,  which  appears  to  me  to  embrace  the  c;»se,  and  has,  in 

my  opinion,  piedgod  the  fiiitli  of  the  government  fully ;  whether  he  was 

authorized  by  the  Department  to  give  such  pledges  or  n  t,  is,  I  think, 

wholly  immaterial  to  the  present  case.     It  has  been  done:  and  those 

who  have  complied  and  received  the  bounty,  believed  such  to  be  the 

fact,  which    the   Department   alone  could  give,  thereby  binding  the 

contract  on  the  part  of  the  government ;  which  (acting  for  the  best 

interests  of  the  service  in  whi(  !i  we  an;  engaged)  I  have  thought 

proper  to  confli  in  by  issuing  the  order  referred  to,  which  I  cannot 

doubt  will  meet  your  approbation. 

I  have  the  honour,  &c., 

(Signed)        Cuaules  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 
To  the  Hon.  James  K,  Pauldino, 

Secretary  of  the  Navy. 


XV. 


Sir,— 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Off  Madeira,  September  20th,  1838. 


Although,  previous  to  sailing  from  Hampton  Roads,  I  was  aware  of 
some  of  the  deficiencies  in  the  outfits  of  this  ship  and  the  Peacock,  in 
preparing  them  at  the  navy-yard,  Norfolk,  for  the  service  in  which  we 
are  engaged,  I  omitted  to  mention  the  same  to  the  Department,  owing 
to  the  necessity  of  our  sailing  without  delay  or  detention ;  but  since 
our  arrival  at  this  port,  the  Peacock  particularly  has  been  found  in 
such  a  condition,  that  it  is  with  regret  I  consider  it  my  duty  to 
represent  the  same  to  you,  and  take  leave  to  enclose  herewith  a  report 
of  her  commander,  by  which  it  appears  she  was  in  a  much  worse 
condition  on  leaving  the  dock-yard  at  Norfolk,  than  had  been  anti- 
cipated ;  instead  of  being  well  prepared  for  the  service  required  in  the 
Exploring  Expedition. 

I  have  forwarded  to  you,  through  the  navy-agent  at  New  York,  for 
your  examination,  a  box  containing  an  iron  hoop,  taken  from  one  of 
the  pumps  of  the  Peacock,  as  a  fair  specimen  of  the  little  attention 
which  had  been  bestowed  upon  her  at  the  navy-yard  in  her  I'epairs.  I 
have  to  state  also,  that  a  few  days  after  the  ship  left  the  navy-yard, 
her  fore  and  cross-jack-yards  were  found  so  much  decayed,  that  it 
was  necessary  to  replace  them  by  new  ones,  on  representation  of  her 
commander. 

I  consider  it  my  duty  to  state  that  we  have  found  nearly  all  the  men 
furnished  us  from  the  receiving-ship  at  Norfolk,  by  your  order,  unfit  for 


APPENDIX. 


8T1 


Ihe  duty  required  of  the.n;  and  on  sending  some  of  them  back,  they 
refused  to  receive  them;  consequently  I  shall  have  to  send  thorn  home, 
or  transfer  thorn  to  the  squadron  om  the  Brazil  coast,  if  Commodore 
Nicolsoii  will  take  thorn,  and  obtain  others  if  possible. 

We  shall  bo  put  to  much  inconvenic.'nce  and  delay  at  Rio  de  Janeiro, 
where  it  vv,ll  [,e  necessary  to  repair  and  recalk  the  Peacock,  as  far  as 
possible  to  enable  her  to  perform  the  cruise  required;  this  will  be 
attended  with  much  additional  expense,  and  is  another  reason  for 
-laking  a  full  representation  of  the  facts,  to  be  made  use  of  as  the 
iJepartment  may  see  fit. 

I  have  the  honour  to  be,  sir. 

Most  respectfully,  &c., 

CnAULEs  Wilkes. 
To  the  Hon.  .Tab.  K.  Paulding,  f^ommanding  Exploring  F.xpedition 

Sccrel.i        r  the  Navy 


SlR,- 


V.  S.  Ship  Peacock, 

Madeira,  Sfjitembcr  18th,  1838. 


In  a  verbal  (communication,  a  few  days  previous  to  leaving  Hampton 
Koads,  I  stated  to  yoi,  that  I  could  point  out  many  things  that  o.K'l.t 
to  be  done,  or  rather  done  over,  on  board  this  ship,  particularly  the 
calking  about  the  water-ways,  sides  of  the  ship,  deck,  &c.,  and  that  I 
had  no  doubt  the  ship  would  make  considerable  water,  when  we  got 
to  sea;  as  the  work  enumerated  would  occupy  some  time,  and  to  do  it 
conveniently  we  ought  to  go  back  to  the  yard,  it  was  determined  at 
that  interview  (from  the  great  desire  of  the  Department,  and  in  fixoi 
the  whole  country,  that  the  Exploring  Squadron  should  get  to  sea. 
as  well  as  the  injurious  eflects  delay  would  have  upon  the  officers  and 
men)  that  the  s<iuadron  should  get  ofl'  the  moment  sailing  orders  were 
received,  and  remedy  as  murh  as  possible  within  our  means,  such 
defects  as  might  thereafter  show  themselves  in  the  course  of  our 
passage. 

Coinciding  most  fully  in  opinion  with  yourself,  on  that  occasion,  a. 
soon  as  I  returned  to  the  Peacock,  I  had  an  examination  of  our  puin|,. 
gear,  and  found  but  on^^  Mt  of  boxes  in  the  two  forward  pumps,  which, 
from  their  rusty  and  otherwise  worn-out  appearance,  I  was  induced  to 
believe  had  not  been  removed  since  her  arrival  in  port.  The  pump- 
gear  had  not  yot  come  on  board  ;  wc  immediately  sent  to  the  navy- 
yard  for  it ;  when  it  arrived,  (the  day  before  sailing,)  the  pumps  were 
tried,  and  appeared  to  work  well  :  wc  found,  however,  two  of  the 
pumps  with  half  an  inch  less  diameter  or  bore  than  the  others ;  this  J 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


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illl 


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0^. 


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372 


APPENDIX. 


consider  a  defect,  for  two  reasons :  first,  the  small  ones  not  discharging 
as  much  water  as  the  large ;  secondly,  having  to  use  pump-boxes  of 
different  sizes  In  the  same  ship,  where  from  accident  to  one  set,  the 
other  cannot  be  used  to  make  up  the  deficiency.  As  the  sequel  proved, 
the  ship  leaked  considerably  the  moment  we  got  a  breeze  which  drove 
us  through  the  sea ;  not  only  through  her  water-ways,  upper  works, 
and  decks,  but  through  the  eyes  of  her  combings,  I  presume  through 
the  scarf  in  the  stem, — at  all  events,  running  by  buckets-full  down  the 
apron  into  the  store  room,  forcing  such  quantities  of  water  on  her  berth- 
deck,  that  I  found  it  necessary  to  scuttle  it  to  carry  thu  water  off. 

The  chain-cables  of  the  ship  I  rowsed  out  of  the  Icckers  at  sea, 
examined  the  shackles,  and  found  it  necessary  in  two  of  the  cables  to 
have  almost  every  shackle  put  in  the  forge.  So  completely  had  the 
bolts  rusted  in,  that  they  could  not  be  started  until  fire  had  done  its 
work  upon  them,  and  even  then  some  of  them  had  to  be  cut  entirely 
out.  While  thus  making  an  overhaul  below,  I  examined  the  pump- 
well,  and  to  my  utter  surprise  and  astonishment,  found  all  the  iron 
bands  on  the  two  after  pumps,  below  the  berth-deck,  in  the  state  of  the 
one  I  now  send  to  you  for  inspection ;  and  from  the  fact  of  one  of 
them  having  entirely  rusted  off,  and  found  lying  in  pieces  at  the 
bottom  of  the  well-room,  it  may  fairly  be  inferred  they  were  not 
examined  at  all  after  the  arrival  of  the  ship  at  Norfolk.  I  had  the 
two  pumps,  from  which  the  bands  had  dropped  off,  well  woolded  at  sea, 
and  from  the  appearance  of  soft  spots  about  them,  am  fearful  when 
taken  out,  (which  must  be  done  at  Rio,)  we  will  find  them  rotten. 

I  should  have  recommended  taking  them  out  here,  but  in  consequence 
of  having  to  raise  up  a  portion  of  the  spar-deck  for  that  purpose,  think 
we  may  venture  to  delay  it  until  our  arrival  at  that  port.  I  have  also 
to  state  that  the  bibbs  of  both  the  fore  and  main-masts  have  started  and 
canted  three-quarters  of  an  inch  forward,  and  work  considerably 
while  at  sea.  This  we  shall  remedy  by  raising  our  lower  rigging, 
tops,  and  trestle-trees,  and  endeavour  to  get  them  back  in  their  places, 
and  secure  them  with  extra  boits.  I  have  stated  but  a  few  of  many 
defects,  and  can  only  say  that  I  have,  during  my  service,  assisted  in 
the  fitting  out  of  many  vessels,  and  regret,  under  all  the  circumstances 
of  the  case,  to  be  compelled  to  add,  that,  taken  as  a  whole,  the  Peacock 
has  been  ntted  out,  (so  far  as  the  navy-yard  was  concerned,)  with  less 
regard  to  safety  and  convenience,  than  any  vessel  I  have  ever  had 
any  thing  to  do  with. 

Respectfully,  &c., 
(Signed)         Wm.  L.  Hudson, 
Charles  Wilkes,  Commanding  U.  S.  Ship  Peaoocli 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 


APPENDIX, 


S78 


XVI. 

METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS  MADE  ON  BOARD  THE  UNITED  STATES  SHIP 
VINCENNES,  UNDER  THE  EQUATOR. 


wovEMBiR  6tu,  183& 


Mean  Barometer, 

• 

29-99 

HightBt  at  11  p.  H. 

30-04 

Lowest  at  3  p.  m. 

29-94 

Mean  Sympiesometer,     . 

29-t)6 

Highest  at  11  p.  M. 

29-74 

Lowest  at  4  p.  u. 

29-62 

Mean  temperature  of  air, 

75-370 

Mean  temperature  of  water 

76-10O 

NOVEMBER  7th, 

KAROHXTIR, 

SYMPIEe 

lOMETKS, 

HOUR. 

REMARKS 

, 

P.M. 

A.M. 

P.M. 

A,  H. 

1 

29.98 
29-98 

29-98 
29-98 

29-66 
29-66 

29-68 
29-67 

Mean  Barometer,  .    . 

•    .    .    30-00 

2 

Highest  at  9  a,  m. 

.    .    .    30-05 

3 

4 

29-96 
29-97 

29-98 
29-98 

29-63 
29-63 

29-68 
29-68 

Lowest  at  3  p.  m,  ,    , 

,    .    .    29-96 

5 

29-97 

30-01 

29-64 

29-70 

Mean  Sympiesometer, 

.    .    ,    29-68 

6 

29-98 

30-02 

29-65 

29-72 

Highest  at  8  a,  M, ,    . 

.    ,    ,    29-74 

7 
8 

30-00 
30-02 

30-02 
30-03 

29-68 
29-68 

29-70 
29-74 

Lowest  at  4  p.  M,  .    . 

.    .    ,    29-68 

9 

30-03 

30-05 

29-70 

29-72 

Mean  Temp,  of  air,   . 

.    .    .    76-200 

10 

30-04 

30-02 

29-72 

29-69 

Meat  Temp,  of  water. 

.    ,    .    76-180  1 

11 

30-04 

30-00 

29-72 

29-68 

1 

12 

29-98 

29-99 

29-68 

29-66 

SO 


874 


APPENDIX. 


X  V  I. — Continued. 

NOVEHBEB.  8th. 


i 

BAKOHETER.        j 

■YMFIESOIUTIR. 

HOUR. 

REMARKS. 

r.  M. 

A.M. 

r.  M, 

A.  M, 

1 

29-95 

29-99 

29-64 

29-68 

Mban  Barometer,  .    ,    . 

.    .    29-95 

2 

29-94 

29-98 

29-63 

29-65 

Highes*  at  9  p.  m.  ,    .    . 

.    .    30-04 

3 

29-93 

29-98 

29-60 

29-68 

Lowest  at  3  F.  M.  .    .    . 

.    .    29*93 

4 

29-96 

29-98 

29-62 

29-68 

5 

30-00 

30-00 

29-64 

29-70 

Mean  Sympiosometer,    . 

.    .    29-67 

6 

30-00 

30-00 

29-66 

29-72 

Highest  at  9  p.  M.  .    .    . 

.    .    29-74 

7 

30-03 

29-99 

29-70 

29-71 

Lowest  at  3  p.  H.  .    .    . 

.    .    29-60 

8 

30-04 

30-00 

29-72 

29-70 

9 

30-04 

30-01 

29-74 

29-73 

Mean  Temp,  of  air,    ,    . 

.    .    75-180 

10 

30-04 

30-02 

29-74 

29-72 

Mean  Temp,  of  water,    . 

.    .    76-260 

11 

30-02 

30-00 

29-72 

29-70 

13 

30-00 

29-98 

29-70 

29-68 

NOVEUBEB  9th. 


1 

29-98 

30-00 

29-63 

3 

29-97 

29-98 

29-65 

3 

29-94 

4 

29-95 

5 

29-95 

29-95 

29-63 

6 

29-97 

29-98 

29-64 

7 

30-00 

30-00 

29-68 

8 

30.01 

30-01 

29-74 

9 

30-02 

30-02 

29-74 

10 

30-05 

30-02 

29-74 

11 

30-05 

3000 

29-74 

12 

30-02 

29-98 

29-72 

29-70 

Mean  Barometer,  .    .    . 

.    .    29-98 

29-70 

Highest  at  10  P.  h.    .    . 

.    .    30-05 

29-68 

Lowest  at  3  A.  M.  .    .    . 

.    .    29-34 

29-68 

29-68 

Mean  Sympiesometer,    . 

.    .    29-68 

29-68 

Highest  at  9  P.  M.      .    . 

.    .    29-74 

29-70 

Lowest  at  1  A.  H.  .     .    . 

.    .    29-62 

29-72 

29-70 

Mean  Temp,  of  air,   .    . 

.    .    75-870 

29-69 

Mean  Temp,  of  water,    . 

.    .    76-600 

29-64 


TADLE  OF 


lllaUK^T  UA.NQE  Of  TIIERMOM.     LOWEST  RANG 

MONTHS. 

1833. 

1834. 

1835.'l83G.  1837. 

(                  1 

1833. 

1834. 

80= 

It 

JANltAIIY. 

93-.')° 

89  = 

91° 

90° 

91  0 

74° 

FKHKUAIIV. 

«J3 

91) 

91 

90 

8;-) 

79 

79 

MAUCIl. 

!)l) 

88 

8r> 

90 

86 

70 

77 

APaiL. 

88 

84 

80 

82 

79 

76 

73 

MAY. 

78 

82 

78 

73 

80 

71 

72 

JONB. 

77 

75 

7.5 

78 

74 

69 

66 

JULY. 

7C 

77 

77 

77 

76 

67 

69 

AUGUST. 

81 

79 

79 

82 

80 

71 

66 

IIEPTK.MMKU. 

84 

84 

79 

81 

sr, 

73 

72 

OCTOIIKIl. 

8G 

84 

80 

83 

83 

75 

68 

NOVKMIIER. 

8!) 

83 

84 

83 

82 

76 

71 

DKCEMUEIl. 

!)l 

90 

88 

86 

85 

80 

72 

1 

1833. 

1 

Mean  of  the  lii 

ghcst  range  of 

I\Ie;in  of  the  iiigl 

Thcriuoiuctc 

r  at  noon,  for 

'rhcrmometer 

12  months,  . 

85-50 

12  months, 

Mean  of  the  lo 

west  range  of 

Mciin  of  the  low 

Tlicrinoiiicte 

r  at  noon,  for 

'I'licrnioinetcr 

la  months,  . 

7t 

12  months, 

]\Ican  temp,  foi 

13  months  at 

Mean  temp,  for  1 

noon,  .    .     . 

79-5 

noon,      .     .    ! 

Fair  days  in  13 

months,  276  ) 

Fair  days  in  12  i 

Cloudy     do. 

do.        41  >  3G5 

Cloudy       do, 

Rainy       do. 

do 

48) 

Ra 

iiy 

do. 

HIGHEST  HANQE  OF  TIIERMOM. 

MONTHS. 

1 

1838. 

1839. 

1840. 

1841. 

jANUAny. 

86° 

87° 

88° 

87° 

1 

FKDRUARY, 

87 

88 

88 

84 

1 

MARCH. 

86 

83 

8.') 

87 

! 

APRIL. 

82 

83 

80 

85 

) 

MAY, 

76 

79 

80 

78 

a 

JU.NE. 

76 

76 

76 

75    ;> 

JULY. 

75 

75 

74 

74    6!' 

AUGUST. 

75 

76 

75 

77  6>i 

SEPTEMBER. 

78 

76 

82 

IVO 

OCTOBER. 

83 

82 

86 

?-.7 

NOVEMBER, 

86 

86 

84 

^7^ 

DECEMBER. 

90 

88 

87 

'0 

Mean  of  the  highest  range  of  Thermo. 

meter  at  noon,  for  12  months,    .     .     . 

Mean  of  the  lowest  range  of  Thermo- 


meter at  noon,  for  12  months, 
Mean  temp,  for  12  montlif,  at  noon,   . 
Fair  days  in  12  months,  228  J 
Cloudy      do.  do.        70^         3f 

Rainy        do,  do.        67 


Mean  average  of  highest  range  of 
from  1833  to  '41,  9  years,  at  nooF 

VOL.  ir- 47» 


"o. 


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X  V  IF. 

TAni.M  OK  Mi;TK()|J()LO(Ji{;Ar,  OIISMIJVAI'IONS  AW  UIO  .tA\i:iU{ 


IIKIIUST  lUNIlH  HP   rllKHMOM.     WWKST  KAMI;  III'  TIUMIMO  I. 


JANIIAItV. 

rt:iiiii'\iiv. 

.MMll-ll. 

Arnii,, 

MAY. 

JIINK. 

JI'I.V. 

AlUil'Sl'. 

CKITIMllinU. 

iK'i'oiir.ii 

NilVKMllini. 
IIKCK.MUKIt. 


iH;t:i. 

\HM. 

iKtri. 

iHMi; 

ih;i7 

IH-TtJ 

!)|  ' 

!)()J 

!)l^' 

7,j.. 

<);i 

!lll 

!)| 

!)l) 

8") 

7!) 

!M) 

ss 

8,"> 

III) 

HIi 

7ti 

,SS 

SI 

HI) 

H-i 

7!) 

7(i 

7H 

s.-i 

7H 

7.1 

HI) 

71 

77 

7") 

7.'> 

7H 

71 

III) 

70 

77 

77 

77 

7(i 

(17 

HI 

7!l 

7!> 

H-J 

80 

71 

SI 

HI 

711 

HI 

8."> 

73 

m; 

84 

HI) 

h:) 

8;i 

7.'-. 

811 

Kt 

HI 

H:t 

8J 

71! 

IM 

UO 

HS 

8(i 

8.") 

8U 

80- 

i'i 
77 

7'J 

7 -J 
(!li 
CI) 
III! 
7^' 

t;8  . 

71  i 
7J  ' 


is.'Ki.  ih:)7 


71' 

7(;j 

711 

7H 

71 

71! 

7'J 

(18 

CH 

(17 

i;s 

(III 

(IS 

(i<; 

III 

71) 

III! 

((,") 

Ill) 

(Hi 

7:1 

7 'J 

7.'J 

70 

7.') 
70 
7:1 
(II) 
08 
0:. 
01 
07 
07 
7:) 
7vJ 
73 


niMAN  'I'KUI'lillA'I'lJIIK, 


ls;t;i. 


ls;ii. 


8i)-7:.' 
7i';i:i 
7;i':. 

7i; 
7S';(:i 

7lt 

8;t 

HI 
8'J.,-, 

87 


77:. 

71) 

7;i:. 

/•-••nil 

7ll'llli 
7.V;.',) 
70 

Hll-7.'i 

h;i-.) 

HI 

hI'J:. 


I8:).i 


I8;i(i, 


71- 1 
71 

i'> 

7J':i 

70 

77'7.7 
7S'7.') 

S'J 
81-00 

7000' 

7.'H)0 

7()'H7 

7I-'JI) 

7.V77 

7'.'-rt 

75 

70;) 

7:i'l) 

h.t:, 

8.V;! 
8^-75 


1 8;i7. 


ISIKt. 


j"\Ii';in  lit"  lln'  lli!,'ll(•^<t  iiinf;i'  of 
'riiiTiiKHiii'li'i'  at  iK.Dii,  l()r 
Ivi  iiiDiillis, H.V.")-^ 

.Mean  of  tin'  linvi'>'l  raiijji'  hI' 
'riu'iiiKiMU'liT  at   iitioii,  lor 

I'i  IllOIltllS, 71 

.Moan  ti'iii|i.  lor  I'J  iiionllis  at 

110011, 7!In"i 

Fair  (lays  in  1"J  luoiillis,  rJ7ll  1 
C'lomly      do.  ilo.         ll'llll.". 

IJiiiiiy        do.  do.        -IS  J 


H-." 
7I)'8 

7S-II 
lu-.'t 

i:ir> 

(18 
711 

71 

77 
77 

78-;).'; 


I8;);t. 

18.T 

I!J 

i."J 

ui) 

!.'l 

;.';i 

!.'l) 

;',". 

l.'> 

yi 

0  1 

•.'8 

T.I 

in 

li.'l 

til 

','(( 

'.',■> 

Hi 

yi 

IH 

11) 

t.'5 

I8;t  I. 


.Mian  ol'llii'  liinlifsl  raiifjo  of 
'riicriiioiiK  li  r  at  noon,  for 
1-,'  nihs B'.i'li 

.AIci  n  (>r  llic  louisl  raii!;o  ol" 
'I'lu'i-nioMii'liT  al  noun,  lor 
1'.'  inoulli.'* 70 

-■Mc.iii  Icinp.  for  I.'  nionlii.s,  at 
noon, 77.5 

I'air  days  in  I'J  nionlhs,  XJ.'iH  1 

Cloudy       do  do.        /ii;  f  ;)(;,•; 

Rainy         do,  d 


n^- 


I8i\:). 


Mean  oI'llii^  lii^rlic.'^t  ran(,'o  of 
'      'I'licniiiiini'lir  al  noon,  llir 

I'J  iiionlliM, H'.'v'.'.'i 

iMiaii  of  tlic  lowest  runtn.'  of 
'I'JK  rnioinrtiT  at  noon,  liir 

1-  nionllis, 7|).;j;) 

.Mean  li  ijip.  lor  I'J  inonlli.-i,  at 

_  ' 1 70''J;7 

I'.iii  days  in  I'J  ijionllis,  !.'.')•-'  j 
Cloudy      do.  do.         .I'J  '  ,'UI."i 

K'ainy        do.  do.         HI  ^ 


JANUAllY. 

VKimUAllY. 

MAKOII. 

Ariiii,. 

MAY. 

JUNE. 
Jll.Y. 
AirCL'ST. 
SKl-rKHllKR. 

oc'i'ODKi;. 

NOVEMOEK, 
DECEMBER. 


1838. 


Mean  of  the  highest  ran^e  of  Tlicrino- 

meter  at  noon,  for  Vi  months,     .     .     .     81-GG^ 

Slcau  of  tlio  lowest  raiiife  of  Thermo- 
meter at  notm,  for  I'J  months,     .     .     .     71'53 

Mean  temp,  for  IJ  months,  at  noon,   ■     .     7G'J3 

Fair  days  in  13  months,  'J'J8  ^ 

Cloudy  ■     do.  do.        70  V         3C5 

Rainy        do.  do.        67  ) 

Mean  average  of  highest  range  of  Therm.        Mi 
from  1833  to  '41,  9  years,  at  noon,  82'0jy= 


18:39. 


■^r'"in  of  ilu:  |,ii.|„,s,  range  of  Thermo. 

""'•r  at  noon,  ll.r  1~' months,  .     .    . 
•Wi'an  of  Hi,,  lowest  range  of  Thermo- 

'"fl'T  at  no,,,,,  for  IJ  inonlhs,  .     . 
■;i"n  temp.  i;,r  i-j  ,„„„,i,„_  ^^  ,,„„         _ 

,,i""'''.^--  i'ilOnu.nlhs,'Jl!) 

y;l'"'.^'      'I".  do.         ,17  >  3tlo 

'"'V       do,         do. 


81-58° 

71-n8 
7G-U3 


s,  'Jl!)  i 
07  [ 
7US 


Mean  of  the  highest  rar 
meter  at  iinon,  (or  13 
."Mean  of  the  lowest  ran 
meter  at  noon,  for  13 
Mean  ti  nip.  for  13  inont 
Fair  days  in  12  montliH, 
Cloudy       do.  do. 

Kainy        do.  do, 


''""average  of  lowest  ramre  of  T!-,rrm 
;;-"  Wa  to '41,9  years  at  noon,  71.004'.^' 


VOL.  I.— 47» 


Mean  temp,  at  noon,  lloin 
1833to'41,9years,77'()lo 


Averaj 
1833  1 


X  VII. 

nSMKVATIONS  AT  UK)  JANKIliO,  |[V   Allt.  .lOIIN  (i  AliD.N  i:t(. 


ilKAN  'IKUrliUAIiJIlK, 


ai. 


ih:),-!. 


■;t;i 


71  ■  I 
71 


ih.'k;, 


77-7,-. 

•r, 

iH'ir, 

'i 

N'J 

^^l■(i(; 

a 

78'.> 

7.'HHi 
7()'h7 
7I-'JI) 
7.V77 
7J-rt 

7:. 
7ii;) 

7!l'!) 
«^'7,> 


I  h;i7. 


KMIl  IIAVS. 


7ll'i 
7H-( 
7.V; 

7;i-.' 

ti.H 

711 

-:>■: 

71 

77 
77 

78-;i 


lH;t;i. 

IH.M. 

Ih;i,-,. 

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til 

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111 

t.'5 

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til 

IH 

y:) 
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r.'l 
yi 
^.','■. 
1.1 
'J7 
ir, 
u; 


CMIIIIIV  IIAYH, 


ihxi.'ih.iiJih;), 


lUINV  IHYH. 


I8;}r). 


II  cil'llii'  lii;jli('sl  laiij;,'  (,|' 
licriiiiiiiiclir  lit  iKidii,  liir 

(  IIIIHllllH, S-.'-'.V) 

II  111'  tlic  li)\vcsl  raiijji;  III' 
11  rniiiiiicliT  at  ihhih,  lor 

iiiiinllii', 7ll','i.') 

II  Iciiip.  lor  Iti  iiiiiiillis,  111. 

»">i 7i;'.M 

<liiy«  ill  1-  iiioMllis,  !.'.')•-'  j 
ly     il').         fill.       :)■,> '  ;t(j.'> 
y      tlo.         do.       m^ 


[iKKi. 

IH.'I7. 

iH,i;i 

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r. 

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r; 

11 

r* 

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4 

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7 

r» 

4 

IH.'I7. 


Ill 
a 

4 

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a 
111 
a 
ii 

5 


iH;i(i. 


iMiMii  ol'llii'  lii(T||fst  runt,'!!  of 
'riii:riiioiii(:lLT  at  noon,  llir 
I'-i  iiioiilliH, K'.la 

Alr;iii  ol  llu!  lowcHt  riiiifjc  ol' 
'I'lii  riiioiiictcr  at  noon,  li.r 
I'-i  nioiilliM, 71) 

Mean  Iciiij).  (or  !:>  nionllin,  at 
_  "II"", 77-ia 

I'air  (l;iy.s  in  lli  inoiitliH,  ^11!  » 

<''""iiy    ''"•        <ii>.       'ii((ai;G 

J{aiiiy       do.  do.         .'ia  ^ 


1 N  ;i  7. 


IMiMii  oFtlio  lii;r||i,(  riiri;,r,.  ol" 
'J'licriiioiiicli  I-  111  noon,  for 
Iti  nioiilliK, H'i'U'p 

Mriin  ol'  tin:  |ou(  y-l  riiiifri;  of 
'J'iicriiioniclir  ut  noon,  lor 
Iti  nionlliN, 70 

JMcan  tcni|).  lor  I;.'  nionlliH,  at 

,  '.'"""• 75-5a 

Kiir  (liiyii  in  !;,>  niontliH,  !Ji;) 

Clcndy       do.        do.  (il).ai;5 

Uainy        do.         do.  M  ' 


MI:AN  ■rKMI'MUA'ITI!!-:. 


iHa8. 


inaii. 


IHIO. 


SO' 10^ 

H.il 
7S-i) 

771  a 

71-17 

7j-ai; 

7:.''lia 

70'87 

7.')-3G 

77-5 

77-4 

yj-a 


HI -7  I 

H-J-7 

Hit'^>r> 

77'l 

71.-)1 

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7:J1-J 

7:.'-77 

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7.')-!)a 


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Hl-7-,> 
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77'!»a 
7  (!■!:>  J 
7J-a7 
71-lH 
7 1 -an 

7i;ui 

711-77 

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1811. 


8aar.^ 
81 -;)-,> 
81 -ao 
811-.'; 

74-81 
71-i.'li 
71-JII 
7-J-0!l 
7.1-17 
7.1-1:7 
77-01; 
77-04 


IKtH. 


10 
17 
17 

18 


00 
0.-) 

18 
11 
18 


lAlIl  DAYS. 


18;ill.  1810.  1811. 


CJ,Oi;iJV  DAYS. 


KAI.NY  DAYH. 


18a8.  18.111.' 1 841),  1841.  18a8.  IKill.  Ih40.!!841 


ii; 

00 

ii; 

ii; 

Ofi 

Hi 

la 

la 

ail 

01) 

01 

17 

18 

18 

17 

0.1 

01 

0.1 

oa 

111 

17 

01 

III 

0.1 

1.1 

111 

111 

1.1 

00 

10 

17 

la 

8 

17 

111 

a 

10 
0 

7 
7 


C 
H 
10 

I) 

a 

4 

i; 
fi 

7 
G 


0 

I 

10 

i; 

8 
G 
G 
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7 
4 
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4 


i; 
1 

8 

8 
2 

10 

4 

II 

10 

10 

G 


4 
3 

r> 

7 
2 

,1 

7 
8 


II 

8 

G 

8 

4 
o 

G 

a 

II 

10 
6 

8 


8 
(I 

3 
G 

7 
4 
7 

la 

8 


la 

G 
0 
5 
G 
3 
4 

2 

9 
10 
17 


1S41. 


Mism  of  tlio  lii;r|i(.st  ranfrc  of  Tlicrnio. 
meter  at  noon,  lor  10  nion  " 


Mean  of  the  lowest  rango  of  Tiitrmo- 
ni(!tir  at  noon,  liir  10  months,  .    .     . 
Mean  temp,  liir  10  months,  at  noon,  .    . 
Fair  days  in  12  montli.s,  010  1 
Ciondy       do.  do.        78  V  3G5 

Rainy        do.  do,       77  N 


81-33 

72-.18 
76-92 


Muaii  icnip.  at  noon,  from 
1833to'41,<lycars,77-l)lo 


Aurafrti  fair  day.s,  from 
1833  to '41,  9  years,    237 


Cloudy  days,  from  1833 
to  '41,  9  years,  GO 


Rainy  days,  from   1833 
to  Ml,  9  years,  G7 


380 


APPENDIX. 


XVII  I. — C  O  N  T I N  U  E  D. 
AMERICAN  ARRIVAr-8  AT  RIO  DE  JANEIRO. 


1831). 
92 

1840. 

1H41. 

From  tlio  Unitcil  States, 

97 

119 

From  EiirojH!,  .... 

31 

27 

3!) 

From  Whaling, 

36 

13 

20 

149 

137 

178 

Vessels  of  War,      .      .      . 

10 

14 

18 

Total,    .... 

159 

151 

196 

XIX. 

TO  THE  OFFICERS  01    THE  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 

The  undersigned,  in  calling  the  attention  of  the  officers  of  the 
squadron  under  his  command,  to  their  personal  appearance,  would 
observe,  that  in  his  opinion  the  example  of  some  of  them  in  this 
respect  is  not  such  as  should  indicate  to  the  crews  of  the  diflerent 
vessels  composing  the  squadron,  the  necessity  which  exists  of  the 
^Toatcst  attention  being  paid  to  their  personal  appearance  and  clean- 
liness, in  conformity  to  the  internal  rules  and  regulations  of  the 
squadron. 

He  has  not  been  aware  until  recently  of  the  extent  to  which  the 
wearing  of  mustachios  has  been  carried :  they  in  most  cases  give  a 
notoriety  and  appearf.nce  of  want  of  attention  to  neatness,  &,c.,  which 
renders  it  impossible  for  the  officer,  with  any  degree  of  consistency,  to 
carry  the  inspection  of  their  men  or  divisions  to  that  extent,  which  he 
considers  absolutely  necessary  for  the  health  and  comfort  of  all. 

He  believes  it  only  necessary  to  appeal  to  the  good  sense  of  the 
officers  in  order  to  remedy  their  aj)pearance,  and  feels  assured  that 
upon  reflection  they  will  see  the  like  necessity  and  importance  of  pre- 
serving, in  the  first  national  expedition,  the  usual  appearance,  habits 
and  customs  of  their  own  country. 

Very  respectfully, 

Charles  Wilkes, 
U.  S.  Ship  VincwB.  Commanding  Exploring  Expedition 

At  Sea,  October  8th,  1838. 


A  P  P  K  N  D  I  X. 


SHI 


Sir,— 


V,  S.  Ship  Vinccnnoi, 

At  Sen,  November  lut,  1838. 


As  some  m.snpprdK.nsion  may  exist  in  relation  to  the-  use  Cor  xvl.i.-l, 
ho  reaCng-room  or  forward  cal.in.  is  intendod.I  .hi„k  it  a   U 
briefly  sta.o  n,y  vows  res,.o.-tin,  i,s  uses,  in  whicl.  I  have  no  d.u.  .   a 
will  SCO  the  propriety  of  concurring. 
I  view  it  then  in  ti.e  san.e  light  as  the  ship's  hhrary.  or  n  place  where 

of  the  si  p  s  duty,  and  not  sul.ject  to  other  practices,  which  would  cause 
interruption  in  the  use  of  books. 

The  accoininodations,  though  not  large,  will  with  due  respect  and 
oons.  eration  for  each  other's  views,  be  found  to  be  ample,      d 
"......ally  proven     any  one    from   appropriating  exclusively  i,s   sn 

conveniences  to  h  ...self,  or  using  its  table  fo.^  writing  (in.e    |c 
lK>oks  and  the  flicihty  of  reference  to  them),  as  there  no  dou      exi 

o(lu.e.  s  fur  that  purpose,  without  incommoding  any  one 

You  will  therefore  keep  its  use  confined  to  these  ..urposes  and  not 
permit  the  issue  of  slops,  &c.,  to  take  place  in  it. 

lles[)ectfully, 

ClIAllLKs  Wir.KES, 

Lieut.  Ti.omas  T.  Craven.  Com.nu..di«|r  Ex|.lori..jr  E;,pe<lition. 

U.  S.  Sliip  Vinccnncs. 


ORDERS  FOR  THE  VINCENNES. 

The  following  arrangements  in  regard  to  the  scientific  duties  of  the 
otHccrs  of  this  ship,  will  be  adopted  when  in  port 

Lieutenant  Craven  will  ai.l  the  scientific  corps  as  Assistant  Natu 
rahst.  when  his  duties  on  board  can  be  dispensed  with 

obser^rr  "'"'^  '"''  ''  "'^"^'  "''  '"^  '"  '^''^'^  '^'y  -'^^  ^'^ 
Lieutenant  Johnson  will  perform  the  duty  of  first-lieutenant  during 
the  absence  of  Lieutenant  Craven,  and  will  be  excused  from  niWif 
watch  when  so  engaged.     The  ofTicers  will  be  divided  into  wa    h 
for  duty       bo,,d  ship,  at  the  observatory,  and  elsewhere,  as  follow 
1st  watch.  Lieutenant  Johnson  and  Passed  Midshipman  Totten.      ' 
2d  watch.  Lieutenant  Alden  and  Passed  Midshipman  Reynolds. 
3d  watch.  Lieutenant  Maury  and  Passed  Midshipman  Mav 

VOL.  I.  9GS  4Q  '  *'*^' 


382 


APPENDIX. 


4th  watch,  Acting-Master  North  and  Passed  Midshipman  Sandford. 

A  relief  watch  will  at  all  times  bo  on  board  ship  for  such  duty  as 
may  be  required. 

Mr.  Elliott,  chaplain,  supernumerary  for  such  duty  as  may  be 
required. 

Midshipmen  Clark  and  Elliott,  will  be  excused  from  watch  for  boats 
and  other  duty. 

Acting-Surgeon  Gilchrist  will  bo  associated  with  Mr.  Rich,  Botanist 
of  the  Expedition. 

Assistant-Surgeon  Fox,  as  assistant  to  "T.  R.  Peale,  Naturalist,  and 
Mr.  Dana,  Mineralogist. 

Assistant-Surgeon  Whittle  as  assistant  to  Dr.  Pickering. 

The  olTicers  attached  to  the  tenders  Sea-Gull  and  Flying-Fish,  will 
be  associated  in  scientific  duties  with  the  first  and  fourth  watches  of 
the  Vinccnncs  and  Peacock. 

The  arrangements  heretofore  mode  in  regard  to  the  duties  of  the 
medical  officers  will  be  complied  with  until  further  orders,  which  will 
enable  them  to  devote  much  of  tb^ir  time  to  the  scientific  duties  ;  and 
it  is  desirable  that  they  should  receive  from  the  scientific  gentlemen 
with  whom  they  are  associated,  every  facility  which  can  be  afforded 
them,  and  every  opportunity  of  being  useful. 

As  the  object  of  this  association  of  duty  is  to  extend  as  far  as 
possible  the  operations  of  the  Expedition,  it  is  earnestly  requested  that 
the  gentlemen  composing  the  scientific  corps  will  on  all  occasions 
avail  themselves  of  the  services  of  those  officers  who  by  this  order 
have  been  associated  with  them,  and  of  all  others  who  niay  (when 
their  duties  and  time  will  permit)  be  desirous  of  aiding  or  advancing 
the  interests  of  the  Expedition,  by  making  collections,  drawings,  &c., 
and  that  the  utmost  harmony,  good  feeling,  and  concert  of  action  may 
exist  at  all  times,  as  nothing  will  so  much  tend  to  promote  the  useful- 
ness, and  be  the  means  of  extending  the  objects  of  the  Expedition. 

Charles  Wilkes, 
Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

November  20th,  1838. 


ORDERS  FOR  THE  PEACOCK. 


The  officers  to  be  divided  into  watches,  the  same  as  the  Vincennes, 
and  a  relief  watch  to  be  always  on  board. 

Midshipmen  Henry  and  Hudson  excused  from  watch  for  boat 
duty,  &c. 


APPENDIX. 


388 


Dr.  Sickles  associated  with  Mr.  Couthouy  for  scientific  duty     Dr 
Holmes  also  to  aid  in  s(!ienti(lc,  duty  ^        '* 

Villnlf "   '"   "'"■'   '"^  '"  ""'•^'^'  "'^^^^   '^'  --«  "  the 

Charles  Wilkes, 
U.  a  Ship  Vinconnoi,  Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

At  Sea,  Novenilwr  OUt,  1838, 


ORDERS  FOR  THE  PORPOISE. 

The  following  arrangements  in  regard  to  the  scientific  duties  of  fl,« 
officers  of  the  Porpoise  when  in  port,  will  bo  adopted  *'^' 

The  officers  will  be  divided  into  watches,  to  perform  duty  on  board 
at  the  observatory,  and  elsewhere,  as  follows  •  ' 

1st  watch,  Lieutenant  Claiborne  and  Passed  Midshipman  Blunt 

3d  Zln  ^-"'"'"^  nT'^^""  '"'  ^^''"S  M'-^^f^'P-an  Baldwin 
3d  watch.  Lieutenant  Dale  and  Passed  Midshipman  Colvocorel^ 
Lieutenant  Dale  in  sketching  when  his  other  duties  will  perm  . 

The  order  for  medical  officers  the  same  as  the  Vincennes. 

Charles  Wilkes, 
U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes,  Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

At  Sea,  November  Slat,  1838. 


ORDERS  FOR  THE  RELIEF. 

as  Morr'  ""'"''  '°  '^  **"  "■=  """=  "'  O"  '"'-<'  ""'  Po'Poi'O, 
1st  walch,  Ltoulonant  Pinkney  and  Passed  Midshipman  Davis 
Sd  wa  c h,  L.e„.e„an.  Casa  and  Passed  Midshipman  Camming 
M  watch  Ueutenan,  Underwood  and  Passed  Midshipman  Stodair 

Midshipman  Blair  will  be  excused  from  watch  for  boat  duty 
Lieutenant  Underwood  will  be  employed  in  sketching,  &c. 

Charles  Wilkes, 
U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes,  Commanding  Exploring  Expedition 

At  Sea,  November  21st,  1838. 


SS4 


A  r  V  K  N  1)  I  X. 


XX. 


I'.  S.  Sliip  Viiironnoii, 

Kio  tl>'  Jinn'ini,  IVr.'MilM'i-  ITitli,  IS.IS. 

SlK, 

Voii  will  prorotvl  mid  nmkc  a  survey  of  a  shoal  said  to  «'\ist  olV 
Capo  St.  Tlionuis,  about  sixty  i>>ilos  north  o['  ('i\\h>  l''-io.  with  the 
Poacock,  Porjioiso,*  Sca-C>ill,  and  Flying-Fish,  which  air  iilacrd 
under  your  coininand  for  tlu;  duty. 

Tho  shoal  is  sii|-,K)sod  to  ho  about  twenty  milos  oast-luvlt'-novth  from 
C;vpc  St.  Thomas, 

In  suivoying  it,  as  fur  as  I  am  able  to  judge  of  its  locality,  I  would 
rccoinmond  tho  following  mode  to  l)C  i>ursuod,  viz.: 

On  ycm-  arrival  at  oi  near  its  supiiosod  locality,  anchor  your  four 
vessels  at  convenient  distances  fiMin  each  otlier,  within  a  suitable 
distance  for  admeasurement  by  r.ound.  Here  ascertain  your  latitude 
and  longitude  accurately,  measure  your  distance  between  all  tho  vessels 
by  sound,  tiring  guns  in  succession,  u'^ting  the  elapse  of  time  in^twecn 
the  l'\sh  and  report;  thv-n,  or  belore,  measure  the  azimuth  between 
each  vessel  end  tho  sun,  and  proceed  with  your  boats  to  sound, 
rudiatiiig  from  each  vessel  on  tho  several  points  of  bearings:  the 
position  of  your  boats  may  be  accurately  ascertained  by  the  anghis  on 
any  three  of  the  -vessels,  and  the  soundings  obtained  can  ut  once  be 
inserted  on  tho  skeleton  chart  prepare<i  f()r  tho  occasion. 

You  v.ill,  while  at  anchor,  heave  the  current  log  every  hour,  aiul 
notice  the  direction  by  the  l.^-td  of  your  siiip.  AOor  you  have  sa'i^- 
factorily  explored  the  giou'.id  that  your  vessel  may  have  anchoii:(l  on, 
you  will  then,  in  all  probability,  know  tho  direction  in  which  tho 
shoalest  water  lies  from  you,  and  by  shifting  the  anchorag<!  of  each 
vessel  in  succession  toward  that  direction,  you  will  occupy  new 
irround,  when  the  same  operation  of  measuring  bases  by  sound,  and 
taking  r.zimuths,  will  be  gone  through  with,  and  then  you  may 
approach  the  position  without  any  danger,  as  your  chart  will  be 
const'-uctcd  as  you  proceed. 

Lieutenar\.  Johnson  has  boon  oidercd  to  tho  Porpoise  to  superintend 
her  movements  in  regard  to  this  survey,  and  I.ieuteniint  Alden  to  your 
ship,  in  whose  information,  as  respects  the  above  mode  of  jirocceding, 
you  may  rely. 

Mr.  Knox  of  th«  Flying-Fish,  is  iilso  aj.t  at  this  work.     I   have 

•  The  PoriK.isc  wis  not  on  tliiB  duly ;  tlicso  orilorB  were  counlcriniuulcd,  uh  bIio  eouhl  not 
be  prepared  for  si'a.  in  season. 


&- 
P 


ff 


A  I*  r  K  N  I)  1  X. 


ma 


onini't!  INli-.  ISfay  l<»  ussisi  liiin  in  lliis  criiiM-.  iiml   Mr.  VM,  nf  your 
sliip,  1(1  iissi.sl  ill  \\w  (liilii'N  on  Itoiinl  llu'  Scn-l  !iill. 

AOor  y"ii  liavc  oIitiiiiKvl  (In;  iks-cnsimv  inronnalioii  in  U'giiid  lo 
tills  sliorl,  (;f,!i(Hil(l  you  lio  so  rortiiniilo  ns  l«i  Iiml  it,)  yon  will  rolmii  It) 
Capo  l''rio.  and  iVoiu  llionco  iiHiasuro  lIuHiiHlaiuM?  tVoni  this  liarlionr  hy 
.sound. 

'I'ho  ino!*;  ollicionl  moilo  of  doini^  llus,  I  coiu'oivo  as  I'oIIowh,  viz. 
AlU'i-  gotliiii,'  llu'  li,i.;lil  in  sii^Iil,  an<Iii.f  llio  llirco  vessels  ho  iih  lo  loriii 
u  Iriaimlo,  and  lako  tlu!ir  aziinnllial  hoaiiiij^.H  iVoni  (ho  niiii.  mcaMniinu; 
by  sound  llio  dislanco  hctwcHin  tlio  v('ss(>ls,  wliidi  will  ^'wn  yon  llio 
Imsos  of  llu«  triaMv,d(!;  then  nu^isiiro  llio  aiij./l(N  IVoni  on  hoard  lIio 
V(!ssc'Is,  wilh  Iho  linhl-honso,  mid  this  will  ^ivo  yon  *lala  (o  calfnlalo 
its  dislanco  and  hoariiii;;  thoii'.-o  procood  wonI,  kooping  tlio  vomsoIh  in 
iniigo,  and  as  .mooii  ns  yon  got  their  dislainu!  and  lu'aring,  rhangn  tlioii 
positions  alt(!in!itrly. 

V«iy  rivsiK'cirnlly, 

(■IIAIll.KH  VVll.KI.H, 

t-oiiitimiiiliiH(  Knjiloriiiir  Kxiwditioii, 
(<A|-|'A1N  Wll.l.UM  I..  llmmoM, 

('()iilitmii(liii|i(  II,  H,  Hliip  IViiRock. 


XXI. 

miMii.ATioN  or  iinA/if„ 

I'lNlilimtrd  liy  lli(<  iiiiinlHin  (iC  lioiiNdM  lliriliNlii'il  liy  llm  rrliiinn  iif  Klrchnim  (I'lr   i)i<|itilinii  in 
IH.'I.'I,    Id  IImi   Niiliiiiiiil    l.rylMliiliiri',  niliiilnliii/r  iiirli    liiiliiliilinii   ini  niiitiiiniiijr    (Ivn  (Irr 

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NATIONS. 

AMERICAN. 

ARGENTINE  REP. 

AUSTRIAN. 

BELGIUM. 

BRAZIL. 

BREMEN. 

DENMARK. 

PRANCE. 

HAMBURG. 

3PAIN. 

HOLLAND. 

ENGLAND. 

KNIfHAUSEN. 

NAPLES. 

BANDA  OaSENTAL. 

PORTUGAL. 

PRUSSIA. 

SARDINIA. 

SWEDEN. 

TUSCAN  V. 

1 

1 

From 


«'   1 
"  1 


I 
I 


Ik 


^ 


RESULTS  OF  THE  MEASUREMENT 


POSITION  OF  VESSELS. 

From  Light-house  to  Fiying-Fish's  1st, 
"    Flying-Fish's  1st  to  Sca-Gull's  Isf, 
"    Sea-Gull's  1st  to  Peacock's  2d, 
"   Peacock's  2d  to  Fiying-Fish's  2d, 
"   Flying-Fish'j  2d  to  Sea-Gull's  2d, 
"   Sca-GuU's  2d  to  Peacock's  3d, 
"   Peacock's  3d  to  Flying-Fish's  3d, 
"   Flying-Fish's  3d  to  Sea-Gull's  3d, 
"   Sea-Gull's  3d  to  Peacock's  4th, 
"    Peacock's  4th  to  Flying-Fish's  4th, 
"   Fiying-Fish's  4th  to  Sea-Gull's  4th, 
"   Sea-Gull's  4th  to  Peacock's  5th, 
"   Peacock's  5th  to  Fiying-Fish's  5th, 
«  Flying-Fish's  5th  to  Sea-Gull's  5th, 
"   Sea-Gull's  5lh  to  Peacock's  6lh, 


ASTRONOMICAL 
HEARING. 


S.  85°  07' W, 

87  45 

85  31 

87  46 

85  16 

85  52 

85  27 

86  04 
86  13 
85  12 

84  43 
26  33 

85  48 
85  10 
84  41 


DISTANCES.  IFF.  OP  LOW. 


19514-10 

7009-34 

15475-17 

9524-40 

12778-39 

13426-98 

10525-39 

13381-47 

20845-96 

12821-91 

10468-50 

16055-49 

12801-15 

8056-19 

18524-69 


feel  1 4012-0  W. 
21965-0 
22889-0 
10379-0 
14833-0 
208290 
23487-0 
17429-0 
175530 

8639-0 

6678-0 

6938-0 

4942-0 

1194-0 

2956-0 


H8194-6W. 


Meridian  Distances  between  Cape  Frio  Light-house  and 
By  Sound,     ...     1°    08'    52"    8'" 
By  Chronometer,     .     1     09     48     0 


"^, 


^cttlot 


^ 


'Si,'*, 


\?» »» 


^# 

^'■MaHcasl! 

^^ light  II. 
.»^E  IK  TO, 

rit                 s.a 

~ 

XXIII. 

RESULTS  OF  THE  MEASUREMENT  OF  .V  BASE  LINE  BY  SOUND,  BETWEEN 


POSITION  OF  VESSELS. 


From  Light-house  to  Flying-Fish's  1st, 

"  Flying-Fish's  1st  to  Sea-Gull's  1st, 

"  Sea-Gull's  1st  to  Peacock's  2d, 

"  Peacock's  2d  to  Flying-Fish's  2d, 

"  Fiying-Fish's  2d  to  Sea-Gull's  2d, 

"  Sea-GuU's  2d  to  Peacock's  3d, 

«  Peacock's  3d  to  Flying-Fish's  3d, 

«  Flying-Fish's  3d  to  Sea-Gull's  3d, 

"  Sca-GuU's  3d  to  Peacock's  4th, 

«'  Peacock's  4th  to  Flying-Fish's  4th, 

«'  Flying-Fish's  4th  to  Sea-Gull's  4th, 

«  Sea-Gull's  4th  to  Peacock's  5th, 

"  Peacock's  5th  to  Flying-Fish's  5th, 

"  Flying-Fish's  5th  to  Sea-Gull's  5th, 

"  Sea-GuU's  5tii  to  Peacock's  6th, 


ASTRONOMICAL 
BEAIUNG. 

S.85= 

07'  W. 

87 

45 

85 

31 

87 

46 

85 

16 

85 

52 

85 

27 

86 

04 

86 

13 

85 

12 

84 

43 

26 

33 

85 

48 

85 

10 

84 

41 

DISTANCES. 

19514-40  feci. 

7009-34 
15475-17 

9524-40 
12778-39 
13426-98 
10525-39 
13381-47 
20845-96 
12821-91 
10468-50 
16055-49 
12801-15 

8056-19 
18524-69 


DIFF.  OF  LAT. 


1061-2  S. 

275-2 
1209-7 

371-1 
1054-4 

967-7 

834-9 

9181 
1375-5 
1073-0 

964-9 

966-2 

937*5 

678-8 
1716-5 


DIFF.  OF  LOW. 


20649-0  W. 

7608-0 
10758-0 
103370 
13835-0 
14546-0 
11397-0 
14501-0 
225940 
13879-0 
113220 
17410-0 
13867-0 

8720-0 
20048-0 


POS 


From  Peacoc 

"  Flying. 

"  *Peaco( 

"  Sea-Gu 

"  Flying. 

"  Sea-Gu 

"  Peacocl 

"  Flying- 

"  Sea-Gu 

"  Peacocl 

"  Flying. 

"  Sea-Gu 

"  Peacocl 

«  Flying- 

«  Sea-Gu 


*  The  Peacock  here  changed  to  Sea-Gull 


Meridian  Distances  between  Cape  Frio  Light-house  and  Enxados  Island. 
By  Sound,     ...     1°   08'   52"   8'" 
By  Chronometer,    .     1     09     48     0 


'McirieatZf 


Cope  Ne^i*0. 


s.a        r.7 


XXIII. 

;  LINE  BY  SOUND,  BETWEEN  CAPE  FRIO  LIGHT-HOUSE  AND  ENXADOS  ISLAND. 


AT. 


S. 


DIFF.  OF  LON. 


20649-0  W. 

7608-0 
10758-0 
10337-0 
13835-0 
145460 
11397-0 
14501-0 
225940 
13879-0 
113220 
17410-0 
13867-0 

8720-0 
20048-0 


POSITION  OP  VESSELS. 


From  Peacock's  6th  to  Flying-Fish's  6th, 

"  Flying-Fish's  6th  to  Peacock's  7th, 

"  *Peacock's  7th  to  Sea-Gull's  7th, 

"  Sea-GuU's  7th  to  Flying-Fish's  7th, 

"  Flying-Fish's  7th  to  Sea-Gull's  8th, 

"  Sea-Gull's  8th  to  Peacock's  8tb, 

"  Peacock's  8th  to  Flying-Fish's  8th, 

"  Flying-Fisli's  8th  to  Sea-Gull's  9tli, 

"  Sea-Gull's  9th  to  Peacock's  9th, 

"  Peacock's  9th  to  Flying-Fish's  9th, 

"  Flying.Fish's9thto Sea-Gull's  10th, 

"  Sea-Gull's  10th  to  Peacock's  10th, 

"  Peacock's  10th  to  Flying-Fish's  10th 

«  Flying-Fish's  1 0th  to  Sea-GuU's  1 1th 

"  Sea-Gull's  lllh  to  Enxados  Island, 


ASTKONOMICAL 
BEARING. 

DISTANCES. 

S.87° 

04'  W. 

12914-94  feet. 

87 

12 

20242-51 

87 

44 

20993-89 

89 

54 

15076-91 

89 

46 

136o4-56 

N.89 

46 

19166-72 

89 

58 

21619-72 

89 

52 

16044-11 

39 

52 

16157-90 

25 

00 

18820-54 

26 

00 

14030-06 

25 

05 

15076-91 

24 

45 

10877-13 

24 

05 

2695-70 

S.84 

34 

2726-00 

DII  F.  OF  LAT. 


The  Peacock  here  changed  to  Sea-Gull's  position. 


660-9  S. 

988-9 

830-3 

26-3 

55-6 

78-1  N. 

12-6 

37-3 

37-6 

1705-7 

12610-0 

13655-0 

1878-3 

2461-4 

259-1   S. 


38001-5  N. 


DIFF.  OF  LON. 


nd. 


Longitude  of  Enxados  Island, 43°   09'   06"   67' 

Difference  of  Longitude,      ....       1     08    52       8 


14012-0  W. 

21965-0 

22889-0 

16379-0 

14833-0 

20829-0 

23487-0 

17429-0 

175530 

8639-0 

6678-0 

6938-0 

4942-0 

1194-0 

2956-0 


418194-6  W. 


Longitude  of  Cape  Frio  Light-house,       42°   00'   13"   87' 


LiqMll. 


APPENDIX. 


391 


XXIV. 


aAiUNo  msTKucxioNs  roK  the  nELi.r,  «ot  to  be  opened  until  at  sea. 


Sia,— 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Rio  do  Janeiro,  December  18th,  1838. 


T?M«„.^  continue  on  them  al   the  way  to  Terra  dnl 

aroL  Tr  "'",r'  ""°"«''  ""^  *'™'^  of  ^  Maire,  a„d  double  dose 
around  the  southeast  po  nt  of  Terra  HpI  Pnno.^  i       •       .  ""';  ^'^se 

land  until  you  are  upU  the^Sel  t  ll^ 

your  port  open  to  you  clear  of  hidden  dangers        ^  *"''" 

^^5th.  A  plan  of  Orange  Harbour  is  among  your  Book  of  Charts,  No. 

6th.  On  your  arrival  there,  you  will  set  up  tide-staves.  similar  to 
7th.  At  Orange  Harbour,  you  will  employ  your  crew  in  cutting  fift. 

carefu  per»„,  ,o  be  kept  lighted  during  1%^'  tl      ::Z 

vonrj'  ^°"  7"5"'"'""y  P'»>«"e  all  the  sounding,  brought  up  bv 
you  deep-sea  lead,  ,„  papers,  »ith  the  positions  whe^  they  w  reLd 

and   .biS    '■°'"'  'T  ^°"  ""'  ■""'«'  '^P'^a.ed  trials  of  the  ourrem 
and  ,vh,le  on  soundtngs  you  »iU  anehor  your  boat  with  the  deepS 


302 


APPENDIX. 


icad,  mnkiiii!:  iiso  of  the  iMirront-loj^.     Your  ncting-nmslor   has    boci 
shown  the  oiio  in  uso  on  boanl  this  sliip. 

liJth.  "^oii  will  rxposo  two  ihcnnoniolors,  o\w  Imviiiir  its  luilli 
covered  with  hlaek  wool,  daily  to  the  iiiihriieo  of  the  sun,  and  iiuio 
the  dillerence  in  yoin- journal;  also  that  whieh  is  shown  in  the  shad<> ; 
and  yon  will  continue  all  observations  as  heretofore. 

lUth.  It  is  believed  that  the  Relief  will  not  rei,nire  any  repairs; 
should,  however,  any  be  neeessary,  yon  will  eoiniih^tt!  them  at  onee. 

Mth.  You  will  avoid  bei.^jr  blown  oil"  to  the  eastward  by  all  llu 
means  in  your  jiowor;  rnnninjr  with  the  coast,  and  anehorinj,' dnrini,' 
the  continuance  of  westerly  gales  inuler  the  land,  is  recoinniend(<d.  I 
am  not  aware  that  you  have  any  dangers  to  fear,  (ixeej)!  kt<lp,  which 
you  may  run  boldly  towards,  but  avoid  entering. 

n)th.  You  will  allord  Mr.  Uieh,  the  Hotanist,  every  facility  in 
collecting  specimens,  iVc,  and,  if  jxissible,  seek  out  places  where  a 
quantity  of  wild  colery-grass  may  be  collected  for  the  crews  on  our 
arrival. 

16th.  You  will  issue  to  such  of  the  (m-ow  as  may  re(]uiro  the  warm 
articles  of  clothing  supplied  for  the  Kx|)Ioring  l'',x|)edilion.  charging 
them  at  the  usual  slop  prices,  which  will  be  remitted  at  the  end  of  the 
cruise,  on  the  good  belmviom'  of  the  men. 

17th.  You  will  give  particular  attention  to  the  health  and  (Comfort 
of  the  oflicers  and  crew. 

Wishing  you  a  safe  and  speedy  passage  to  your  port  of  destination, 

I  am,  &c., 

Chaiu.ks  Wir.KKS, 

LiKUT.  Com.  A.  K.  I.ovci,  «>       >         n       i 

U.  S.  Ship  Udici: 


1 


U.  S.  Ship  VincciiiiRfi, 

OfT  Rio  lie  Jniioiro,  .Tail.  Tiili,   IPH!), 
f5IR, 

In  the  event  of  our  separating,  which,  however,  yon  will  avoid  by 
all  possible  exertions,  you  will  proceed  with  all  despatch  to  Orange 
Harbour,  which  is  situated  in  latitude  r>.'>°  :«)'  f)()"  S.,  longitude  OR"  ()(»' 
2:i"  W.,  taking  such  a  course  as  will  put  you  on  soundings  in  about 
latitude  45°  S. ;  continue  on  them  all  the  way  to  Terra  del  Fue-ro, 
keeping  close  in  with  the  land,  as  wesferly  gales  prevail. 

You  will  pass  through  the  Straits  of  Le  Maire,  and  doubk;  close 
rDund  the  southeast  point  of  Terra  del  Fuego,  until  you  are  up  with 
the  Hermit  Islands ;  you  will  then  have  your  port  open  to  you,  clear 
of  hidden  dangers. 


V 


A  I'  !•  K  N  I)  I  X 

>M   Will  !nnj,|   |„.i|,ir  blown  itir  I,)    il, 


1»$ 


vonr  MowiT.   iiiniiin!;    in    wiili    ii 


••aslwnnl  liy  nil  llic  in 


I'll  Its  in 


vvcsI.mIv  ivilcs.      I    iun   not   iiwar.i  llml    ymi  | 


II'  ri'iisl.   mill  Miii-lioriii!^  iliniiiir  ll 


i'M'i>|)t  |<c||.,  wliirh 


(1| 


ynii  lufiy  run  lioMly  for,  Iml  nvoitl  i-iit. 


IK  liio 
i.'ivi'  liny  iliiiiircrN  III  li'iit 


yoMiiiiiiviil  ill  Oiiinijc  lliirl.niir.  yoii  will  linil 


'"','(• 


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nil'  nr  inslriii'tioMH, 


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H'  iM'iii-^n, 


^ 


"11  will  !.:iv<'  |)aili,-,il:,r  allcniion  In  llio  climnli 


11(1  the  hcalll,  oClhc  oHi 
A  el, ail  of  Oiaii.'c   llarl 


I'i'iN  ai,il  rfcw. 


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No.  I()7». 


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lai'iil 


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iMi'iiiii!,'  ilininir  <lin  niirlil.  on  Hi, ml  Islan.l,  a.s  ii  Ni^iial  lo  ll 
I  ni'ikI  yon  hi'imvilh  llio  ral.i.s  of  y •  clnononiol 


110  m|iia*li'oii. 


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Cm 


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IViinicli. 

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C<imiimiiiliii({  l';«|iloriii((  MniH'dltloii. 


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HniCJiill. 


rARHRI)  MlDKIIII'MAN  S,   |{.   K^ 


I''l)'iii(f.I''irli. 


UKNKKAr.  OUDKUH. 


As  ,lill„.nll,rs  lro.|i,o,illy  o,-,-„r  in  n,^anl  lo  ||„,  ,|aloH  „f  tlio  lo.r. 
Inx.ks  an,]  joinnals  of  ||,„  ,s,|na,lron  un,I,,r  niy  ronmiaiMl,  owit.^r  |o  L 
'''":"'""•■'"  '"""'""^"  ••'^•'1  ""•'  """'i'-"!  li-ni';  li.;n:ari.w,  all  ll,o  lolr-LooK^ 


)g-l)Oo|(K 

"  ,(.M,i,Ho.-<  u,n  ,h:  ho|.i   m  <;iv,l  Inno,  ••.<.„i,„o„<'in,i;  at  Ivvol-' 
lliis  (lay,  l„!ii,g  tlio  inoiiilian  ofll,,!  i>Oi|,  of  |.\;|„„a,y,  IH.'M). 

(!iia„,,,.;h  VV,,,,ii;K, 


mill  jonn.als  will  l.o  |o:|,t  in  i-ivil  Ijn.o.  ronimon.Miii;  at  (vvolv,,  o\;lork 

r  l''i;li,-„ai-y,  IH.'M). 

(!iia„,,,.;h  VV,,,,ii;K, 
t'ommMi«liii((  I':«|.|(iriii(f  Kx|>.y(|iii<in. 


U.  8.  Hhip  Vin(;(!iiii(!it, 

OriuiKd  IJiiiJMMir,  I'lli.  S.'Olli,  18,')!). 


VOL.  I. 


vill 


40 


894 


APPENDIX. 


XXV. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vinoennes, 
Orango  Harliour,  Tcrrn  del  Fuego, 
February  23d,  183a. 
Sib,— 

Although  I  am  aware  of  the  lateness  of  the  season,  and  the  risk  to 
be  incurred  in  attempting  to  make  any  explorations  within  the  Antarctic 
Circle;  yet  I  am  of  the  opinion  that  there  are  many  advantages  to  be 
derived  from  it,  that  will  prove  of  incalculable  benefit  in  any  future 
attempts  we  may  hereafter  make  at  the  proper  season. 

You  will,  therefore,  with  the  Peacock  and  tender  Flying-Fish,  make 
the  attempt  to  carry  out  the  following  instructions. 

1st.  On  sailing  from  this  anchorage,  you  will  proceed  as  far  as  the 
Ne  Plus  Ultra  of  Captain  Cook,  in  longitude  lO-'i"  W.,  and  from  thence 
you  will  extend  your  researches  as  far  to  the  southward  and  eastward 
as  you  can  reach,  without  rendering  yourself  liable  to  be  closed  in  by 
the  ice. 

2d.  You  will  carefully  note  your  daily  positions  on  the  skeleton 
chart  herewith,  and  trace  upon  it,  by  astronomic;.i  and  tangent  obser- 
vations, (not  by  compass,)  all  the  ice  you  may  fall  in  with  during  the 
cruise,  whether  island  or  field-ice. 

3d.  You  will  navigate  to  the  southward,  and  eastward  until  you 
reach  the  western  side  of  Palmer's  or  Graham's  Land. 

4th.  It  is  believed  that  the  latter  part  of  the  summer  will  afford  you 
an  opportunity  of  penetrating  here  farther  south  than  has  yet  been 
done,  and  possibly  meet  an  extension  of  Palmer's  Land,  more  to  the 
westward :  if  you  should  succeed,  you  will  trace  it  to  the  eastward, 
and  return  by  the  southern  and  eastern  side  of  it,  to  this  anchorage, 
thus  circumnavigating  this  land,  unless  you  should  receive  further 
information  from  me. 

.5th.  Herewith  you  will  receive  a  dipping  and  intensity  needle,  with 
which  you  will  make  observations  on  any  floe  of  ice  that  may  be 
accessible. 

6th-  In  your  progress  to  the  eastward  from  Cook's  Ne  Plus  Ultra, 
105"  W.,  you  will  endeavour  to  get  more  and  more  to  the  southward, 
and  to  pass  to  the  southward  of  the  two  small  islands  called  Peter  1, 
and  Alexander,  (the  farthest  land  south  discovered  by  the  Russians  in 
1821,)  and  then  fall  in  with  what  Briscoe  denominated  Graham's  or 
Palmer's  Land,  (its  proper  American  name.)  I  am  of  the  opinion  that 
it  extends  much  farther  to  the  southward  and  westward  than  where 
Briscoe  saw  the  Adelaide  Mountains,  and  that  the  land  stretches  or 


APPENDIX. 


395 


ones    o     .r  '"  ""  ''  ^  '""'y  •'"''-'-''  ''--cry,  and  th..- 

In       1     dw"  "  '"^  •'"'-"'<^g--  Tor  the  exploration,  if  the 

1^ h^^Z  cT^l^^^     r   "'  ?"'  ^"'''  '^'■«"  '^"''"'•''-  "f  '--'-«'' 
coo'  ":'"  "'"■"'  ""'  ^^««'  '^  ^-Vo  Horn,  mns 

o  t  V:  s, :;;':  ;'"• ""'  "^  "-^  ='""-  "-^  ••'" ''-  ice  formed 

.loout  tne  &oiitli  Mictiands  goes  to  t!ic  eastward 

A  J!''  J""']  tT'  T'^'^^''"''  *''  '■""^^^  '^^  southward  of  Peter  I  and 
Alexander  I.  Islands,  or  south  of  the  Russian  track. 

8th.  You  will  fdl  up  the  skeleton  chart  as  you  procuress  and  treat 

t.  uh.ch  wdl  be  an  nnportant  a.ldi.ion  to  our  knowledge,  if  we  only 
obtam  the  hne  of  ice  in  those  seas;  it  does  not  appear%ver  To  l"  e 

to  elle tu  ti'ch"'  '''  "-"''^  '"'"  ^'^^  ""^  ^«  ^"^^  -«^  -'»  be  so  as 
o  enable  you  to  choose  positions  to  shield  your  ship  under  the  lee  of 

the  icy  shore  (if  I  may  be  allowed  the  expriion). 

Ie.r.'  to  if'if'"'"'  ^r  '""  ''^"'""•'^  ''"  "^^'"  '«"'^'  «••  -  'Channel 
leading  to  it,  if  one  offers,  you  will  despatch  the  Flyincr-Fish    with 

such  olhcers  as  you  may  think  fit,  to  make  the  recognizanc    of  Tu 
time  should  not  allow  a  full  survey.  ' 

11th.  It  is  desirable  that  the  extent  and  circumference  of  any  islands 

and  produc  ions,  if  any ;  specimens  of  rocks  and  sketches  of  their  strati- 
fication  will.  If  possible  be  taken.     The  islands  of  ice  frequent  y    how 
appearances  of  stratifications,  with  earth  and  rocks  attached  to  them 
Any  thing  gained  from  them  will  be  interesting  and  valuable  with  . 
parncular  notice  w-hether  the  ice  had  been  mth  wor^^de:  . 

12th.  The  aurora  australis  has  not  been  often  seen;  it  is  said  to 
have  been  seen  by  Captain  Cook  near  his  Ne  Plus  Ultra  where  yo 
Will  commence.    You  will  notice  the  extent  and  height  of  hi  i  e  &c 

::;:!rnl^:lr:ftr  ^^'--^"'^  -^-- -^ « --^^^ 

.nf  h'7'"r'"r''  '^'  observations  of  the  thermometer  in  the  sun 

ud/e  bt V     •:,"  ; "  ''"^r  ^""  ^^  *'^  ^^*^  ^^  --^  depths  as  you  maT 
judge  best,  with  the  sounding  apparatus  sent  you  ^  u  may 

Hth    After  having  run  to  Palmer's  Land,  and  not  finding  an  openinc, 
or  land,  you  will  return  to  this  harbour  direct,  where  you  will  find  hS 
ship;  ana  j^u  w-  11  despatch  the  Flying-Fish  to  the  ha'rbour  of  Dec-ep 
-on  Island  for  informauon  from  me.  which  will,  if  possible,  be  left  in  . 


300 


A  P  r  K  N  I)  I  X. 


bottle,  oiu'liwotl  III  a  iit'a|i  •>!  .sioiu-.s  (a  bailor's  j^ravf),  on  llii"  n^lil-liaiui 
ttiilo  dl'  iliat  iiurboui-,  ilu^  riitniiirc  liuiii^  at  thu  ru.il;  and  )>iii  will 
tlirooi  iIk-  tttlu'cr  in  i-liar;»t!  ol"  iho  Flying- I'Msli  to  iiMuaiii  then',  il'  lu" 
sluaild  lirar  noiliinir  of  mi;,  as  loiij,'  as  |nt>sii)li',  fviii  iiiilil  iju!  Isl  dI' 
Ma\.  wlion  .slio  will  |iioii'Otl  willi  all  di'sjiatfli  li>  this  imii. 

15(11.  iSliiuilil  yon  bo  shut  u|»  or  dutainud  liy  icr,  vvliicli  of  roiirsc 
yon  w  ill  avoid  by  all  possibli!  moans,  you  will,  il*  possiblo,  commnnicato 
to  1110  ul  IK'fi'iiiioii  Island,  as  in  caso  you  aiv  out  of  tinu',  yon  may 
ivly  on  my  st'iuliiig  tlioio  to  hoar  from  yon,  and  alliud  any  aid,  as  soon 
ixn  tlio  suason  will  |>ormil,  lo  wliioli  plaoo  your  boats  or  tho  londor  ran 
bo  navigalod.  Ii  is  my  present  inlontion,  alter  snrvoyiiijt!  the  soiitlioasi 
slioro  ol'  I'alnuM's  Land,  to  ttuioli  at  Docoiilioii  Island  on  my  roliirii 
north,  and  obtain  or  leave  inlormation  as  to  our  proj^ress,  in  a  bottle, 
Aa  ul)ove  dosHn'ibed. 

UUh.  You  will,  ot"  eonrso,  give  the  most  particular  allenlion  to  the 
health  ami  eonilort  ol  the  ollicers  and  news  of  your  command,  and 
tho  most  economical  oxpeiidituro  ot"  stores  and  provisions, — of  which 
you  have  as  imich  as  you  can  slow,  including  a  large  supply  of  anli- 
Hcorbulics,  preserved  moats,  tStc. 

17th.  iShonId  il  in  your  ojiinion  bo  found  at  any  time  during  the 
cruise  impracticable  to  carry  into  oll'ect  these  orders,  and  you  should 
bo  of  opinion  also  that  a  further  attempt  soulh  iluring  the  prescnl 
season  would  bo  unavailing,  owing  lo  bad  weather  or  obslriiclions, 
yon  will,  on  arriving  at  Mich  conclusions,  proceed  direct  to  Valparaiso, 
and  await  further  orders,  making  all  nect;ssary  arrangements  there  in 
regard  to  a  supply  of  provisions,  iVc,  for  the  wiuadron.  In  such  an 
event,  you  will  immediately  despatch  the  I'lying-Kish  to  this  anchorage 
for  further  orders,  which,  if  wo  have  lel\,  will  lu;  found  in  a  pile  of 
stones  on  tho  summit  of  IJnrnl  Island,  near  tho  tent  and  lighlhoiise;  in 
the  absence  of  which,  however,  she  will  proceed  to  Valparaiso  for 
further  orders. 

In  (Conclusion,  I  cannot  express  to  you  how  much  1  feel  for  llio  salety 
of  yoiu'self,  otlicors,  and  crews,  on  this  first  exploralion  you  ar(!  iibont 
to  malio,  and  how  deep  an  interest  and  anxiety  T  shall  feel  for  you  ; 
that  you  may  meet  with  all  tho  success  I  wish  for,  and  that  wo  may 
rendezvous  again  to  carry  out  this  groat  national  cnleriiriso,  is  (In, 
fervent  prayer  of  your  attacheil  friend, 

(^HAllLES  Wir.KKS, 
Comniundiii^  Kxi>loriii^  tlxjKidilioa 
Caftain  Wm.  L.  Huiisofi, 


A  I'  P  K  N  n  I  X. 


nii7 


\  X  V  I. 


1 1.  H.  Nliin  Viiiri'iiiini, 
Omiiui'  IIimI ,  T.  ir.i  il<l  Ki 


!"'«", 


Sit 


Tl 


I 


u-   S.'ii-f;iill,  placcil   iin.lcr  v 


orpuiNO, 


I 


(••^'piiiff   cnnipiiiiy,  iiH    tlio  siiff'tv  of   \h 


I'lliniiiry  'i'ti\,  JHail. 

niir  r|i:ir;v'.  will  l»c  atliirlii'.l  lo  ih.' 
10  iico'xsitv  i<\ 


camiiil    mi|in'ss  tipoii  ymi  i<«i  slniiiijlv  ll 


■ll 


<  r\MS(^  he  lin/.anlc.i  ;  yoii  will,  llicivloiv,  lis. 


ricvvs  (d"   littlii    vt!»s('|s    iiiiiv 


I>(»\v<T  l(»  |ii('vcril  a  sf|mr«ti(i 


«n'«ry  iiuniiis  in  vriiir 


1st.   ViMi  will  k( 


r|»  a  slrict  ilaily  jniniiah.r.'v 


((>  yiMir  nM.|M)rHli(iiiH  willi  tlio  l'«.i|i(ti 
'~M.   A  skriclt.ii  chart  will  lio  funiislird 


<Ty  (M'ciirn'titj*;  mlative 


and  Ic.niriiuiics  in  wliicli  yon  will 


yii tnprisin;,'  tlio  IntilndcH 


•rnisc,  npon  wliicli  churt  an  a 


nwn  of  li.-r  loMl.!;   also  tli<>  position  of  all  land. 


triirk  will  !)(•  laid  d 

islands  of  ii-.-,  \r.,  whirh  may  hr  ohsurvcd.      A 

when  tli(!  w.-ailicr  will  pcrtnil.  will  lu«  pndl-ral'lc  for  ll 


••••urate 


stionoinical  Itcaritii.' 


"K 


(ni 


•M.  V 

'i-nin,;,'  and  I'vcriin-^';  skftfln-s  of  rcfiact 


UN  1)1 


piiri 


'"  "■'"  •'"''''■  !'■«<>  in  ynr  j rial,  tlio  variation  of  ll 


lOHC!, 


of  all  pi 


H!  compass, 
ions,  and  minnic  oliscrvations 


"•'K'lticna  that  may  Ix;  seen;  also,  skclclufH  of  siratili 


ICO.,    Icmpcralin-c   of  the   w;»t«;r  on   lli 
islands,  iVc. ;  tin?  Corni    and    direction   o| 


calioris  of 
e   wealher   and    ice  sides  of  ice. 


formation   of  the   ic(! ;    also  || 


cm'rcnis,  ai 


•  I  ll 


le  apparenf 


specimens  of  .■artli  or  sloni-s  that   may  ''c  d 

llie  a|)pearanc(!  of  any  halos,  nnron^-  ■ ' 

nil.   In  the  (ivent  of  parlimj;  eom| 
the  Torjioise,  o|V  Capi;  Melville,  (:- 


i<!   collection    and    |>reservalion  of  a 


scovered  on  the  i 


"y 


e<',  and 


roras  aiislraliH,  <,Vc 


lenj^itnde  .IN"  W.,  ti 


const  of  the  east  side  (d"  Pali 


•  n'main  two  days;  and. 


inny,  yon  will  retide-/:voiis,  first,  fop 
ieort^re's  Island,  in  latitude  <J|"  .'i.'i'  S. 


n(>r  s 


T-and. 


sneondly,  at  and  near  Iho 
•h 


oil  will,  in  such  a  eaun  of 
^'•j'-"-'""".  !iv..id  l.y  all  possiM,.  means  l.ein-r  shut  up  in  the  ice  and 
will,  on  the  prohal.ijity  of  such  an  event,  proceed  at  once  to  Deception 
Island,  which  harhour  you  will  if  possil.le  .■nter,  and  deposit  in  -i 
grave  formed  ..f  stones,  on  the  north  side  of  the  entrance  of  the 
harbour,  information  relaliv.;  to  y<.ur  partin-  company,  ^'r.■  and  yon 
will  remain  there  for  orders  as  Ion-  as  yonr  safety  will  allow,  and 
\vhile  there  yon  will  hunt  fo,  an.l  examine  a  seif-re.^TJsterini,'  thermo- 
meter,  left  tlwrc!  some  liin<!  since  on  the  point  formin./llin  eo'vo. 

r.lh.   You  will  -ive  parlienlar  attention  to  the  heahh  and  comfort  of 

2  H  !i 


398 


APPENDIX. 


all  on  board,  and  you  have  an  ample  supply  of  provisions,  clotl>ing, 
preserved  meats,  an*' scorbutics,  &c. 

Wishing  you  a  safe  and  successful  cruise, 

I  am,  &c., 

CuAUr.ES    VV^ILKES, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 
Lieutenant  R.  E.  Johnson, 

111  charge  of  Tender  Sea-Gull. 

XXVIJ. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vinccnnes, 
Orange  Harbour,  Terra  del  Fuego, 
February  92d,  1839. 

Sir, — 

The  tender  Flying-Fish,  placed  under  your  charge,  will  bo  attached 
to  the  Peacock,  and  under  the  orders  of  Captain  Hudson,  during  the 
present  cruise. 

1st.  I  cannot  impress  too  strongly  on  your  mind  the  necessity  of 
avoiding,  under  any  circumstances,  parting  company  with  the  Peacock, 
as  the  safety  of  all  on  board  that  vessel  may  be  hazarded  thereby; 
every  means  will  be  taken  therefore  to  prevent  a  separation. 

2d.  You  will  keep  a  strict  daily  journal  of  every  occurrence  relative 
to  your  co-operations  v/ith  that  vessel. 

3d.  A  skeleton  chart  is  furnished  you,  comprising  the  latitudes  ".nd 
longitudes  in  which  you  will  cruise,  anil  on  which  chart  an  accurate 
track  must  be  laid  down  of  the  route,  daily ;  also,  the  positions  of  all 
land,  islands  of  ice,  &c.,  which  may  be  observed.  Astronomical  bear- 
ings, when  the  weather  will  permit,  arc  preferable  for  this  purpose. 

4th.  You  will  also  enter  on  your  journal,  the  v-ariation  of  the 
compass,  morning  and  evening;  sketches  of  refractions,  and  minute 
observations  of  all  phenomena  that  may  bo  seen ;  also,  sketches  of  the 
stratification  of  ice,  temperature  of  the  water  on  the  weather  and  lee 
sides  of  the  islands,  the  form  and  direction  of  currents,  and  the 
apparent  formation  of  the  ice ;  also,  the  collection  ami  preservation  of 
any  stones,  specimens  of  earth,  &c.,  that  may  be  discovered  on  the 
ice,  and  the  aj)pearance  of  any  halos,  auronis  australis,  &c. 

5th.  If  you  should  unfortunately  be  sepnrated  from  the  Peacock,  the 
following  rendezvous  are  fixed  by  Captain  Hudson,  for  meeting  again, 
if  possible : 

Ist.  Latitude  63°  S,,  longitude  80=  W.,  to  wait  half  a  day. 
2d.        "        64"  "        90°  "  one       " 

3d.        "         65"  "       100°  "  '•         " 

4th.       "        66°  "       105° 


APPENDIX. 


309 


And  you  will  seek  the  nearest  to  the  above  i.amed,  coasting  along 
the  ice  as  near  as  possible,  and  locating  yonr  position  on  your  skeleton 
chart. 

6th.  The  Peacock  will  pursue  the  route  laid  down  in  the  orders  to 
Captam  Hudson,  of  which  the  following  is  an  extract,  and  will  give 
you  an  idea  of  the  intended  cruise,  viz. : 

"  On  sailing  from  here  you  will  proceed  to  longitude  105°  W. 
(Cook's  Ne  Plus  Ultra) ;  from  thence  extend  your  researches  as  far  to 
the  southward  and  eastward  as  you  can  reach,  without  renderincr 
yourself  liable  to  be  closed  in  by  the  ice.  ° 

"You  will  then  navigate  to  the  southward  and  eastward,  until  you 
reach  the  western  side  of  Palmer's  or  Graham's  Land,  as  it  is  called 
on  the  charts. 

"  It  is  believed  that  the  latter  part  cf  the  season  will  afford  you  an 
opportunity  of  penetrating  here  further  south  than  has  yet  been  done, 
and  possibly  meet  an  extension  of  Palmer's  Land,  more  to  the  west- 
ward ;  :f  you  should  succeed,  you  will  trace  it  to  the  eastward,  and 
return  by  the  southward  and  eastward  side  of  it  to  this  anchorage, 
ithus  circumnavigating  this  land,)  unless  you  should  receive  any  infor- 
mation from  me  previously. 

"  In  your  progress  from  Cook's  Ne  Plus  Ultra,  of  longitude  105°  W., 
you  will  endeavour  to  get  more  and  more  to  the  southvvard,  if  possible! 
and  reach  to  the  southward  of  the  small  islands  of  Peter  I.,  and 
Alexander,  the  farthest  land  south  d'scovered  by  the  Russians  in  1821, 
and  fall  in  with  what  Briscoe  has  denominated  Graham's  or  Palmer's 
Land,  (its  proper  American  name.)  I  am  of  the  opinion  that  it 
extends  much  farther  to  the  southward  and  westward  than  where 
Briscoe  saw  the  Adelaide  Mountains. 

"  Your  endeavours  must  be  to  get  to  the  south  of  Peter  I.,  and 
Alexander  Islands,  or  south  of  the  Russian  track." 

7th.  In  the  event  of  your  separating  from  the  Peacock,  and  not 
joining  her  again,  which,  however,  is  not  probable,  you  will  coast 
along  the  ice,  agreeably  to  directions,  as  far  as  it  may  be  prudent  and 
safe,  and  proceed  to  Deception  Island  for  information  in  regard  to  us. 
which  if  there,  will  be  found  in  a  sailor's  grave,  at  the  north  of  the 
entrance  of  the  harbour,  where  you  will  deposit  a  communication; 
and  in  the  absence  of  other  orders,  you  will  proceed  to  this  anchorage! 
where  you  will  fuid  me,  or  orders  on  the  summit  of  Burnt  Island,\t 
the  flagstaff;  in  the  absence  of  which,  or  any  of  the  squadron,  you 
will  proceed  direct  to  Valparaiso. 

8th.  You  will  attend  particularly  to  the  health  and  comfort  of  p1? 
on  board ;  you  have  ten  months'  provisions  on  board  for  the  crew,  and 


400 


APPENDIX. 


an  ample  supply  of  warm  clothing,  antiscorbulics,  preserved  meats, 
&c.,  in  the  event  of  detention,  which  will  be  expended  in  the  most 
judicious  manner. 

Wishing  you  a  safe  and  successful  cruise, 

I  am,  &c., 

CiiAELEs  Wilkes, 
Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

P.  S.  You  will,  if  possible,  obtain  fidm  Deception  Island  a  self- 
registering  thermometer,  said  to  have  been  left  some  time  since  on  the 
point  of  the  cove." 

To  Lieut.  Wm.  M.  Walker, 

In  charge  of  Teuder  Flying. Fish. 


XXVIII. 


.: 


GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS,  FOB  BOAT  DUTY,  SURVEYING,  ETC. 

Immediately  after  anchoring  in  position,  you  will  hoist  your  dis- 
tinguishing pennant,  keeping  it  up  till  every  thing  is  done,  such  as 
distance  measured,  astronomical  bearings  taken  on  one  of  the  vessels, 
the  angle  between  her  and  the  others;  also,  angles  on  any  thing 
remarkable  on  shore,  such  as  headland.,  flag  ur  signal  staves,  huts, 
trees,  &c.  When  ready  to  change  your  position,  haul  down  your  dis- 
tinguishing pennant ;  and  when  ready  to  measure  the  base  or  distance 
by  sound,  which  is  the  first  thing  to  be  done  after  you  are  in  position, 
hoist  your  ensign  at  the  fore;  as  soon  as  all  the  vessels  Imve  answered, 
you  will  dip  it  and  fire  in  a  few  seconds;  run  up  the  ensign  n(Tain,  and 
repeat  firing  three  times. 

To  communicate  the  elapsed  time  to  this  vessel,  hoist  the  distin- 
guishing pennant  of  the  vessel  whose  distance  is  to  be  shown,  and 
with  it  the  "  number"  indicating  the  number  of  seconds  ;  the  quarter, 
half,  or  three-quarters,  may  be  designated  by  hoisting  the  first,  second, 
apd  third  repeaters  under  all,  thus — the  third  repeater  under  No.  18, 
would  signify  eighteen  and  three-quarters  seconds  of  time.  It  will  be 
seen,  therefore,  that  when  it  is  necessary  to  repeat  a  number,  one  of  a 
similar  denomination  must  be  used,  as  another  signification  is  given  to 
the  repeaters. 

The  astronomical  bearings  may  be  communicated  in  the  followin'^ 
manner,  with  the  distinguishing  pennant  of  the  vessel  whose  bearinfr 
is  to  be  shown :  hoist  the  "  number"  indicating  the  degrees  with  the 


;    f 


f^ 


I. 


APPENDIX. 


401 


cornet  above,  if  the  bearing  be  from  the  north,  but  under,  if  from  the 
south;  then  the  corresponding  numbers  for  the  minutes  and  seconds; 
mih  the  preparatory  pennant,  if  to  the  east,  or  without  it,  if  to  the 
west  thus:  the  cornet  under  56°,  would  signify  S.  50  ;  then  04-26. 
wou  d  con-espond,  OL'  and  26"  W.,  or.  the  whole  being  put  together, 
would  stand,  S.  50°,  04'  2(5"  W.  o  i  s         , 

Each  ollicer,  before  leaving  the  ship,  will  see  that  his  boat  is  fur- 
nished With  water  and  provisions  for  three  days  for  her  crew ;  that 
her  oars,  spars,  and  sails  are  in  good  order,  compass,  sextant,  spy-glass, 
log-lme  and  currem-log,  leads  and  lines,  grapnel  and  lines  for  mooring 
matenals  for  stnkmg  a  light,  lantern,  and  field-book;  also,  that  iS 
watch    has  been  set   to  ship's  time. 

The  boat^s  will  be  divided  into  parties  or  divisions;  each  division 
will  be  under  the  orders  of  an  officer  appointed  to  take  the  charge, 
who  will  receive  the  general  instructions  for  the  day.  and  who  vvill 
wear  his  boats  ensign  as  a  distinguishing  mark. 

The  formula  of  the  field-books  will  be  understood  as  follows: 

At  the  head  of  each  page  the  name  of  the  boat  and  tl.e  date  will  be  inserted. 
In  column  1st.  The  time  of  taking  tlio  angles. 
2d.   The  soundings,  and  their  nature. 
3d.   The  soundings  reduced. 

4lh.  The  name  of  the  obj.^ct  nnd  the  angle  to  the  left  of  <he  observer. 
5th.  The  name  of  the  centre  objects  only,  unless  there  be  tbroo  angle, 
measured  ;  then,  the  centre  angle  will  be  inserted  with  boththo 
centre  objects. 
6th.  The  name  of  the  object  and  the  angle  to  tlze  right  of  tlie  observer. 

Officers  are  expected  to  note  any  observations  on  the  current, 
soundmgs  &c.,  that  they  may  deem  necessary  to  make  the  results 
less  liable  to  misconstruction,  and  obviate  explanation 

When  a  line  of  soundings  extends  to.  or  commences  at  the  shore, 
the  point  must  be  accurately  fixed  by  at  least  three  angles,  and  the 
.ho  e  sketched  in  on  both  sides  for  some  hundred  yard^,  or  to  some 
well-defined  object. 

The  daily  orders  must  be  carried  into  strict  execution;  and  if  an 
offic-er  does  not  c  early  understand,  or  perceive  any  difficulty  therein. 
he  will  so  state  before  leaving  the  vessel. 
^Ua  boat  should  require  assistance,  she  will  hoist  the  blue  flag,  or 

After  returning  on  board,  each  oliicor  will  fiu-nish  his  commandinc. 
officer  with  a  copy  of  his  day's  work,  wi.h  the  soundings  reduced  t^ 
to  standard  ;  a  diagram  of  his  boat's  track;  and,  if  co-operating  wi 
other  bo.-its.  their  relative  positions  at  each  anc' 


VOL.  I 


SO 


"a"' » 


being  under- 


402 


APPENDIX. 


stood  in  the  diagrams,  that  tlie  top  of  the  paper  will  always  represent 
the  north. 

In  case  of  night  coming  on,  the  vessels  will,  if  their  boats  have  not 
joined  ihcin,  fire  a  gun  and  then  a  rocket,— the  Hrst  to  call  attention, 
the  latter  to  give  tliG  direction  ;  the  rocket  will  be  repeated  every 
fifteen  minutes,  and  the  gun  every  half  hour ;  keeping  up  their  night 
distinguishing  signals  till  their  respective  boats  have  returned  ;  and 
when  any  boat  joins  them  other  than  their  own,  to  remain  the  night 
from  stress  of  weather,  fog,  or  any  other  cause,  the  vessel  u-ill  fire  two 
guns  in  quick  succession. 

Charles  Wilkes, 
U.  S.  Ship  VincenncB,  Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

February  22d,  1839. 


XXIX. 


INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  THE  VINCENNES. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vinccnnos, 

Orange  Hurbour,  Fob.  23d,  183!). 

Lieutenant  Craven  will  enforce  strictly  the  regulations  of  the  ship. 

The  following  oilicers  are  left  on  board  the  ship  for  duly,  viz. 
Lieutenant  Carr;  Lieutenant  Alden;  Purser  VValdron ;  Chaplain 
Elliott;  Acting-Master  North;  Passed  Midshipmen  Totten,  Reynulds, 
May,  and  Sandford ;  Acting  Midshipmen  Clemson,  Thompson,  Clarke! 
and  Elliott :  and  the  four  forward  officers. 

1st.  Lieutenant  Craven  will  have  the  men  who  have  been  transferred 
temporarily  to  this  ship,  stationed  and  quartered  at  the  guns,  dividing 
the  olficers  in  such  divisions  that  they  may  be  regularly  exercised 
agreeably  to  the  rules  and  regulations. 

2d.  Lieutenant  Craven  will  have  all  the  sails,  boats,  rigginf^,  and 
equipments  of  every  description,  overhauled  and  repaired. 

3d.  The  comfort  and  licxlth  of  the  crew  will  claim  his  particular 
attention,  the  regularity  of  their  meals,  and  the  avoiding  unnecessary 
exposure  to  the  cold,  &c. 

4th.  The  baking  of  bread,  it  is  desirable  should  be  carried  into 
operation,  in  order  that  as  small  u  (juantity  of  ship's  bread  siiouid  be 
used  as  possible.  For  this  purpose,  the  oven  is  to  be  erected  on  the 
gun-deck,  and  which  it  is  anticipated  by  constant  use  will  be  suilicient 
for  this  purpose ;  if,  however,  from  any  defect,  it  should  prove  other- 
wise, recourse  must  be  had  to  serving  out  flour  in  lieu  of  shijj's  bread. 


APPENDIX. 


408 


and 


5tli.  Every  opportunity  must  be  taken  advantage  of  to  snppiv  tlio 
crew  with  fish,  wild  celery,  &c.,  and  a  proportion  suilcrcd  to  visit  the 
shore  when  the  woriv  and  weatlier  will  permit,  who  must  ret.u-n  in 
proper  season,  (early  in  the  afternoon,  by  suppor-tinie,)  on  hoanl. 

fill).  The  sheet  cables  will  bo  kept  constantly  bent,  and  an  anchor- 
watd,  duly  observed,  night  and  day  ;  the  three  passed  midshipmen 
and  I\rr.  North,  will  keep  the  watches  regularly;  and  the  deck  is  never 
to  be  left  without  one  of  them,  and  a  midshipman. 

7th.  When  his  duties  will  pennit,  he  will  employ  his  time,  and  tha« 
of  the  crew,  m  dredging  and  fishing,  and  all  specimens  will  be  care- 
tully  iireserved,  and  drawings  made  of  them. 

Hlh.  ITc  will  give  all  the  assistance  and  afford  every  facility  in  his 
power,  to  aid  the  duties  confided  to  Lieutenants  (,'arr  and  Alden. 

Lieutenant  Carr  will  attend  to  the  astronomical  and  other  observa- 
tions (including  tides)  on  shore,  in  which  he  will  he  assisted  by  l)r 
Fox  and  Chaplain  Elliott,  so  far  as  the  former's  duties  will  peru.it  for 
this  purpose.  The  observatory-house  is  to  be  set  up  on  shore,  and 
other  arrangements  made  suitable  for  the  accommodations  of  them 
and  ten  men,  with  a  boat:  this  position  will  be  in  what  is  called  Forge; 
Cove,  on  the  weather  side,  near  the  anchorage  of  ihis  ship. 

Lieutenant  Alden  is  charged  with  the  survey  and  examination  of  liie 
m)rtl.ern  side  of  Hermit  Islands,  an.l  the  passai^es  between  them  an-l 
Terra  del  Fuego,  including  Coree  l{f„ul,  and  the  two  small  islands 
between  the  two.  All  kelp  that  he  may  discover  is  to  be  examined  •  also 
the  anchonige  under  Lenox  and  New  Islands ;  and  to  make  a  .•a'reful 
examination  of  all  other  places  that  may  seem  to  offer  security  for  ves- 
sels from  the  prevailing  winds;  making  notes  and  taking  bearings  that 
may  serve  for  directions  for  vessels  seeking  shelter.  Also  the"  coast 
l.et\veen  False  (^ape  Horn  and  Wedrlcll  Cape,  which  is  to  the  west- 
ward ..f  this  harbour,  being  the  parts  of  this  coast  that  have  not  been 
sullicienlly  examined  by  ('aptain  Kin<T. 

He  will  be  accompanied  by  a  passed  midshipman  on  this  duty  •  the 
launch  IS  to  be  fitted  with  her  deck,  sails,  &c.,  with  a  crew  often  men 
and  provisions,  among  whi.d,  are  includ.id  preserved  meats,  ike  for 
twenty  <lays,  and  a  small  whale-boat  (the  Fox),  or  another,  if  .leenu.l 
more  suilable,  a  tent,  and  every  other  convenience  that  he  may  .loom 
re.,uisile  to  make  t!ie  service  ellicicnt  and  comf.rtable  to  the  purly 
He  will  proceed  on  this  duty  as  soon  after  mv  d.^parture  as  his  prepa- 
rations and  the  weather  wiH  permit ;  an.l  great  hopes  are  entertained 
that  he  will  be  enabled  to  complete  these  anluo.is  and  important  duties 
before  my  return.  This  service  is  considered  a  hazardous  one,  and  he 
will  use  every  eii<leavour  to  avoid  risking  himself,  men,  and  b. 


as 


404 


APPENDIX. 


in  the  event  of  any  loss  of  the  latter,  much  detention  would  result  to 
the  after  operations  of  the  Expedition. 

It  is  hoped  that  Licjtonant  Aldon  will  bo  enabled,  prior  to  this  duty 
being  undertaken,  to  finish  the  chart  of  the  Rio  Negro. 

Acfing-JNTaster  North  will  assist  Lieutenant  Carr  in  the  care  and 
attention  to  the  chronometers,  their  rate,  observations,  &c.. 

It  is  expected  that  all  passed  midshipmen,  and  midshipmen,  will 
exert  themselves  in  carrying  out  the  various  and  important  duties 
confided  to  them  at  this  anchorage. 

Chaulks  Wilkes, 
Commanding  Exploring  Expedition 


XXX. 


SlE, 


U.  S.  Ship  Vintiennes, 
Oninge  Harbour,  Terra  del  Fuego, 
February  23d,  18.39. 


You  will  receive  on  board  the  U.  S.  Ship  Relief,  under  your  com- 
mand, the  scientific  gentlemen,  who  have  been  transferred  from  this  ship 
and  the  Peacock,  to  the  Relief,  for  scientific  duty  during  the  present 
cruise,  and  you  will  allord  them  every  possible  facility  and  accommo- 
ilation  to  enable  them  to  make  such  observations  and  collections  as 
may  be  in  their  power. 

1st.  You  will  proceed  without  delay  to  the  Straits  of  Magellan, 
entering  by  the  west  through  Brecknock  Passage,  Cockburn's  Channel, 
and  Magdalene  Sound. 

■id.  Captain  King's  chart  of  the  Straits  of  Magellan  may  be  depended 
on  for  all  requisite  information;  his  book  of  directions  will  also  give 
you  a  full  knowledge  of  the  tides,  currents,  anchorages,  &c. ;  I  would 
recommend  its  attentive  examination. 

3d.  You  will  keep  full  and  complete  journals  of  all  your  observations 
as  heretofore,  in  regard  to  the  soundings,  temperature,  &c. 

4th.  You  will  on  anchoring  set  up  tide-staves,  and  enter  all  observa- 
tions agreeably  to  our  formula ;  and  you  will  continue  your  meteoro- 
logical journal  hourly. 

ijth.  Should  you  experience  any  gales  or  storms,  you  will  note  their 
progress,  from  the  commencement  to  the  end,  with  their  appearance, 
&c. ;  and  any  occurrence  of  interest  will  be  immediately  noted  in 
your  journal. 

0th.  You  will  also  explore  and  survey  Useless  Bay  in  the  Straits  of 
jMagullan,  and  connect  your  observations,  &c.,  with  Captain  King's 


APPENDIX. 


405 


^hart;  and  you  will  stop  at  IV.rt  Fa.nine,  on  vonr  way  tl.oro  and 
back,  and  such  oll.or  safe  harbours  as  u>ay  appcJr  to  otVor  advanla-ros 
for  scentific  observations  and  collections;  and  j-ou  will  ret.n-n  to  t1.i« 
anchoi-age  by  the  Straits  of  Le  Maire,  on  or  before  the  ir.th  of  April 
next,  ,f  possible,  where  you  will  find  me,  or  orders  on  (he  suunnit  of 
Burnt  Island ;  in  the  absence  of  which,  you  will  proceed  direct  to 
Valparaiso. 

7th.  The  north  side  of  the  Straits  of  Magellan  aflbrds  at  all  time, 
good  anchorage ;  you  will  keep  it  close  on  board. 

8th.  The  period  of  your  absence  must  not,  exceed  fifty  days,  if  it 
can  be  avoided ;  during  which  time  I  have  no  doubt  all  on  board  will 
exert  themselves  m  making  the  best  possible  use  of  the  short  space  of 
time  allowed.  ' 

9th.  You  will  avoid  being  blown  off  to  the  eastward,  as  in  such 
event  the  Expedition  will  sutler. 

10th  Should  any  accident  happen  to  the  Relief,  you  will  despatch 
without  delay  a  boat  to  this  anchorage,  under  charge  of  an  officer, 
Uirough  the  route  you  are  to  enter,  pursuing  thence  Whale-Boat  and 
Darwin  Sounds,  through  the  Beagle  Channel,  as  far  as  the  passage 

Harbour  "  '''"  "''"'"    '"'*"   ^''''"   ^'^  **^   ^''^^S^ 

nth.  Mr.  Percival  has  been  ordered  to  the  Relief  as  pilot;  he  has 
been  m  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  and  will  afford  you  all  the  ad  in  hi 
power. 

You  will  give  particular  attention  to  the  health  and  comfort  of  all 
under  your  command. 

Wishing  you  a  safe  and  successful  cruise, 

I  am,  (kc, 

Charles  Wilkes, 
LiBUT.  Com.  A.  K.  Long,  Commanding  Exploring  ExiH-dition. 

U.  a  Ship  Relief: 


XXXI. 

U.  S.  Sliip  Peacock, 
At  Sea,  lat.  60"  S.,  long.  8  Jo  w., 
Sir,—  April]  et,  1839. 

After  separating  from  you  in  Orange  Bay  on  the  25th  of  February, 
I  proceeded  with  the  tender  Flying-Fish,  under  the  command  of 
Lieutenant  Walker,  to  carry  out  your  instructions,  in  making  a  recocr- 
nizance  south.     On  the  afternoon  of  the  20th,  a  few  miles  to  the  wesl 

21 


406 


APPENDIX. 


ward  of  the  islands  of  Diego  Rainiercs,  we  encountered  a  "•ale,  in 
which  we  lay-to  forty  hours,  in  the  course  of  which  we  parted  from 
our  htlle  consort,  ahhough  wc  had  observed  all  the  precautions  f>f 
firing  guns,  burning  blue-lights,  &c.;  after  waiting  in  vain  foiirtecM 
hours,  with  the  hope  of  again  meeting  her,  we  resumed  our  course  lor 
the  first  rendezvous  I  had  appointed  with  Lieutenant  Walker,  in  the 
event  of  separation ;  that,  as  well  as  some  of  the  others,  we  were 
unable  to  reach,  from  a  succession  of  westerly  gales  and  boisterous 
weather.  To  have  persevered  in  working  up  for  them  would  have 
consumed  the  little  time  we  could  yet  hope  for  in  the  advanced  state 
of  the  season,  for  our  further  progress  south. 

Without  troubling  you  with  a  more  minute  detail  of  occurrences, 
suffice  it  to  say,  that  on  the  11th  of  March,  we  fell  in  with  the  first 
icebergs,  in  the  latitude  of  63°  30'  S.,  and  longitude  of  80°  W.,  after 
which  time  they  were  our  constant  companions  (and  on  more  t/ian  one 
occasion  very  troublesome  ones)  until  we  reached  the  latitude  of  68°  08' 
S.,  and  longitude  of  95°  44'  W.,  where  to  my  great  joy,  we  fell  in  with 
the  Flying-Fish,  and  learned  from  Lieutenant  Walker  that  he  had 
passed  near  most  of  the  appointed  rendezvous,  and  worked  down  from 
105°  W.,  until  he  reached  about  70°  S. ;  that  the  whole  surface  of  the 
ocean  in  the  direction  of  south  and  west  presented  a  perfect  and  im- 
passable barrier  of  ice ;  that  he  had  been  completely  frozen  in  for  a 
short  time  on  the  23d,  and  tbj  ice  forming  rapidly  around  him,  when, 
fortunately,  a  breeze  of  wind  rescued  him  from  his  perilous  situation. 
When  we  fell  in  with  him,  he  was  endeavouring  to  push  his  way  north. 

From  the  time  of  our  first  falling  in  with  icebergs,  we  had  been 
daily  passing  great  numbers  (as  will  be  shown  by  the  chart),  and 
encountered  on  the  17th  and  part  of  the  18th,  the  heaviest  gale  and 
sea  we  have  experienced  since  we  left  the  United  States  ;  the  thermo- 
meter in  the  air  at  that  time  standing  at  21°  of  Fahrenheit,  and  the 
water  at  28° ;  the  ship  completely  coated  with  ice,  every  spray  thrown 
over  her  freezing,  and  about  her  bows  and  head  fairly  packed  with 
it.  From  the  19th  to  the  25th,  we  were  without  a  sight  of  the  sun 
or  sky,  surrounded  by  ice  and  icebergs,  within  the  most  neighbourly 
distance.  During  a  lift  of  the  fog,  for  a  few  moments  only,  on  the 
morning  of  the  22d,  and  by  the  aid  of  an  ice-blink,  we  discovered  an 
extended  range  of  icebergs  and  field-ice  in  mass,  presenting  a  perfect 
barrier  to  our  further  progress  south  in  that  direction  ;  and  so  com- 
pletely were  we  hemmed  in  by  icebergs  on  that  occasion,  that  I  was 
compelled  to  carry  all  the  canvass  on  the  ship  that  she  would  ber.r. 
and  work  her  out  into  some  more  open  position,  through  a  fog  so 
dense  as  to  limit  our  view  to  two  or  three  times  the  length  of  the  ship. 


APPENDIX. 


407 


^ 


popped  up,,!  u.,  ,„  tack,   veer,  „r  pcrC.n,,  such  oti.er  evolutions  as 
were-  found  necessary  to  avoid  tl>cin.  evolutions  as 

of  US^t'T'tM  1'  ""  ?'•  "'  '^"■'=^'  '"^'"S  ^^^'^'-'1  ''-  J^t't-'^ 

-     V     '  ,.nt'^  "    '      '  ""■  "'  '"^'  ""'  ""  "''^^''^'-  •*^«"  «f  Falirenheii, 
wa  d  oj  us,  vvl.ere  the  ship  was  covered  with  ice,  as  well  as  some 

^  l^r'd  T''r  "^  T '''-'''  "•--'  *"«  ^''-^--^  - 

Hub  til  '^":''"^'"^"'  \'-  ■^'-•'-"-  «f  the  days  here,   and  the 

"H.C    ha/aul,  ,n  consequence  of  fogs  and  snow-storms;  the  miser.hlc 

be  ng  fiozen   n  ;  the  masses  of  ,ce  we  had  yet  to  pass  throu.^h  on  our 
h   ?v:^';h  ,1      "'""  f-y  instructions:  these  circumstances  . 

bmed  with  the  report  of  Lieutenant  Walker,  premonished  me  of  the 
ncces.ty  of  turning  the  ship's  head  towards  a  m'ore  temper  tecl, 

ti.^  n  wel'n"  T"    '^°""='^  ''  '^'"»"  '^y  '"'"d  ^«  ^'-  J-i->" 

than  at  any  tnne  since  we  had  entered  its  neighbourhood ;  and  Ind  I 
ft.  uued  my  own  inclinations  merely,  and  allowed  the  prom     n'     . 
am  lion  or  love  of  prais-e,  to  have  governed  my  decisions,  reg  rd,e 
of  the  fu  u  e  operations  of  the  Expedition,  the  lives  of  my  ^IFic-ers  ■  nd 
-non  a^Hhe  trust  reposed  in  me  by  the  government,  I  sholtd'd 
t  wire"""     '  "'  'V''  '  '"'^''  ""^^  ''■''■  '•^'^  ^  -n-iousness 
ou  I       ;?'"""'  '"'°"  '''''  ^^'"  '''^^'''^'  ^y  «"y  f"rt'->-  attenm 
outh,  at  that  l..e  season,  would  have  been  accjuired  only  by  reckless  v 
uzanLiig,  .  nat  an  honest  conviction  of  dut;  to  my  c^nf^y,  ^t 
lives  in  _  .  -V  care,  mo.t  decidedly  torbade. 

the  ISth'rf  f  'T'"'  '•"';■'''''  ^'''  *''"  ^'•^'  ^'"^«  «»  <''«  "ight  of 

18lh,  UK  20t.:  „.,  „,ght  of  the  18th,  an  arc  of  pale  twili.^ht  was 

described   m   t.ie   southern   quarter,  reaching   an   altitude  of°t we  ve 
dogi-ees  and  extending  from  southwest  to  southeast;  both  abov    a^^ 
be  ow    the   arc   were  horizontal  sheets  of  dark   stratus   clouds    .nd 
between  the  lower  strata  and  the  horizon,  a  suspended  bank  ofl  Ist 
va,.our  having  all  the  appearance  of  a  shadow  cast  on  the  sky ;  ray 
of  light  were  continually  being  thrown  out  along  the  whole  extl^nt  of 
ho  arc,  assuming  various  hues,  of  pale  red,  light  blue,  violet,  and 
traw-colouredtmts;  radiating  towards  the  zenith,  and  reaching  alti- 
tudes of  froin  twenty-five   to   forty-five   degrees.     These   exhibitions 
were  confined  to  that  particular  portion  of  the  horizon,  and  continued 


408 


APPENDIX. 


tlirougli  the  greater  part  of  the  niglit,  wliieh  was  of  the  clearest  star- 
light,— the  Soiilhuni  (^-oss  gnniishing  the  /eiiilh,  niid  the  Magellan 
(■Iniids  showing  more  dislirictly  than  I  had  ever  JKjfore  seen  them 
The  weatiier,  during  our  (;ruis(!  south,  was  viny  unfavourahle  f^)i 
witnessing  any  very  si)lendid  exhibitions  of  the  atu'ora  ;  for,  with  few 
exceptions,  diu'ing  our  stay  in  the  Antarctic,  (^irde,  we  were  enveloped 
in  dense  fogs,  or  found  only  occasional  relief  from  such  falls  of  snow, 
as  may  fairly  be  classed  with  any  one  of  our  old-fashioned  snow- 
storms at  home. 

The  greatest  dip  obtained,  from  the  experiments  with  Holland's 
needle,  was  78°;  and  in  thi!  latitude  of  ON*'  S.,  we  found  nearly  four 
points  easterly  variation. 

Mr.  Pealo  has  been  fortunate  enough  to  obtain  as  specimens,  some 
new  and  rare  Antarctic  birds. 

The  oirKX'rs  and  crew  have  enjoyed  excellent  health,  been  prompt 
ah<l  ellicicnt  in  the  jierformance  of  their  respective  duties  ;  and  for 
their  cordial  co-op<>ration  and  aid  in  carrying  out  my  views,  deserve 
my  warmest  thanks;  antl  I  beg  you  will  oll'icially  say  so  in  your  report 
to  the  Honourable  Secretary  of  the  Navy.  I  herewith  enclose  you 
Lieutenant  Walker's  report,  who  certaiidy  deserves,  with  his  olhccrs 
and  men,  great  credit  for  his  perseverance. 

I  have  drawn  up  this  report  in  great  haste,  for  the  jan'posc  iif 
despatching  the  Flying-Fish  to  yon,  with  the  earliest  intelligence  and 
shall- proceed  direct  to  Valparaiso,  to  carry  out  your  instructions  there 

Very  respectfully, 
(Signed)         Wm.  !>.  Hudson, 

Commanding  U.  S.  Sliip  Pcacork 
Caftain  Charles  W:  .niis, 

Comiuunding  Explorinp-  Expedition. 


U.  S.  Sctiooncr  Fiying-Fisli, 

AtSca,  Marcli2Ctli,  1839 
Sir, — 

In  obedience  to  your  order  of  to-day,  I  have  the  honour  to  report, 
that  after  separating  from  you  on  the  evening  of  the  atJth  ultimo,  we 
hove-to  under  a  reefed  foresail  until  near  meridian  the  next  day,  when, 
the  gale  moderating,  we  kept  olf  the  wind,  with  the  hope  of  again 
falling  in  with  you;  and  on  the  evening  of  the  next  day  made  a  large 
sail  to  the  northward  of  us,  standing  to  the  westward;  we  imme- 
diately gave  chase,  but  on  roming  up,  made  her  out  to  be  a  British 
merchantman. 

We  then  stood  to  the  westward  for  our  first  rendezvous,  with  strong 


f 


A  P  P  K  N  D  I  X. 


KM) 


; 


i 


Cbi^^tT'  -""'-';l.w.;st  ,o  wosul,y.no.tl,  accompanied  l,y  „ 
very  Iar«o  sc-a.-vessol  lalu.urin.  ,nu<-,l.,  docks  a.„l  ways   |,oc„m  nir 

O^.  tl.o  7.1,,  wo  reached   cur  first   rendezvous,  and   whilst  lyin^-to 
he  „.   a  heavy  gale,  our  decks  were  lre,,uon.ly  swept  hy  the  te 
and    n,a^  crushed.     On  the  night  of  tl,,,  san.e,  ti.e  sea  hoarded       ' 

On  the  evening  of  the  next  .lay.  the  wind  moderatin..,  set  the 
^  fed  UKunsad  hut  the  vessel  sending  violently  in  the  <,ld  se  .  p  r  ol 
.|.o  .eel-pendant,  and  tore  the  sail  badly;  took  in  the  second  r^if  and 

On  the  0th.  the  leakage  increasing  fron,  stress  of  weather    were 
obliged  to  nK,vo  aft  all  the  bread,  replacing  its  weight  in  th^brld 
room  by  less  perishable  stores.  ^ 

On  the  1 1th.  in  the  n.orning.  found  our  new  jib  nearly  gone  from  the 
say     ut  one  or  two  hanks  ren.uning  ;  got  it  in.  and  aflL^rwanlb 
U  wuh  a  lacng;  .set  the  reefed  mainsail,  and  lowered  the  foresaill 
Pjurs  ;  parted  again  the  ree.pendant  of  the  mainsail ;  took  ^      h  : 

We  were  now  up  with  our  second  rendezvous ;  but  the  wind  growing 
fre  I  a,„,  t,,  .sea  nsu,g.  the  weather  thick,  with  a  heavy  fall  ,^-  ^  w 

I  have  been  particular  in  stating  our  losses  in  .sail.s.  as  it  was  one  of 
the  heavy  causes  of  our  not  reaching  the  rendezvous  .soon!  ku 

detennu^ed  on  n,akmg  the  old  sails  last,  if  possible,  for  the  pass 
.ou  h,  reserving  the  better  suit  for  our  rcturn.'whcn.  fro,,.  ,he      te  et 
of  he  season.  I  believed  we  should  encounter,  if  possible,  .„o      ton 
pcstuous  weather;    and  owing  to  the  close   stowl.ge  of  the  hoi ^  t 
would  have  been  no  trifling  labour  under  the  circumstances  t      1 
oken  out  for  then,;  and.  furthermore,  the  old  suit  would  necessari   : 
ae  gone  below  wet  to  increase  the  discomfort  of  ,he  already  con  - 
lortless  condition  of  the  'tween  decks. 

The  weather  continuing  much  the  same,  with  the  addition  of  rain 

had.  and   snow.  ,n   almost  every  waioh  on  the  Hth   and   ir,th,  we' 

fou^ouis        "       ""''^'"•^"^'  ^^^'•^  -«  hove-to  for  nearly  twenty- 

r  now  despaired  of  again  joining  you.  but  nevertheless  felt  it  mv 

VOL.  I.  .1,  5  J  'y 


410 


APPENDIX. 


duty  to  run  over  llic  track  hiid  down  for  nic,  and  on  the  18th  reached 
the  fourth  and  last  rendezvous,  having  passed  the  17th  in  the  vicinity. 
We  turned  our  head  south  for  Cook's  No  Plus  Ultra,  the  longitude 
alone  being  specified  in  the  instructions — wc  continued  our  course  to 
the  southward,  the  weather  at  times  very  thick,  ice-islands  becoming 
numerous,  and  occasionally  passing  a  little  floating  ice,  until  half-past 
11  P.M.,  of  the  10th,  when  it  became  so  abundant  and  in  such  large 
masses  around  us,  that  we  hovc-to  until  daylight,  frequently  filling  to 
avoid  damage  from  it. 

At  four  o'clock  a.  m.,  wc  again  stood  on,  but  were  soon  again  from 
the  same  causes  obliged  to  heave-to.  At  this  time  the  water  was  much 
discoloured,  and  much  of  the  ice  also  having  the  appearance  of  being 
but  lately  detached  from  land.  I  got  a  cast  of  the  lead  in  one  hundred 
fathoms, — no  bottom.  The  same  discoloration  of  the  water  I  after- 
wards observed  always  in  the  vicinity  of  extensive  masses  of  ice ;  and 
thought  it  might  possibly  be  produced  by  refraction.  At  eight  o'clock 
the  fog  suddenly  lifted,  and  to  the  amazement  of  all  on  deck,  disclosed 
to  us  a  wall  of  ice,  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  high,  extending  east  and 
west  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  and  spreading  out  into  a  vast  and 
seemingly  boundless  field  to  the  southward,  and  so  close  under  the  lee 
that  I  did  not  venture  to  ware,  but  after  getting  the  foresail  on  her, 
stood  on  to  the  westward,  lufTing  and  bearing  away  alternately  to  avoid 
a  dangerous  contact  with  large  detached  masses,  with  wliich  the  sea 
was  filled  in  all  directions.  At  length  finding  a  place  sudiciently  clear 
to  put  the  helm  down,  we  worked  out,  with  the  same  risk,  to  the  east- 
ward, and  at  nine  o'clock  had  reached  a  comparatively  smooth  sea. 
Our  latitude  at  this  time  about  07°  20'  S.,  longitude  105°  W. ;  extre- 
mities of  the  field,  as  far  as  visible,  bearing  per  compass  east-by-north 
and  southwest-half-west. 

It  was  formed  of  various  sized  masses,  of  all  shapes,  and  shapeless, 
and  of  several  colours,  a  dingy  white  (if  I  may  say  so)  prevailing. 
Continued  to  coast  along  the  ice  until  meridian,  when,  seeing  lai-ge  ice 
ahead,  and  weather  thick,  hauled  to  the  northward,  and  soon  ran  into 
blue  water.  At  2  p.  m.,  weather  clearing  a  little  and  sea  tolerably 
clear,  stood  to  the  southward  and  eastward,  and  at  3^  20"',  saw  the  ice 
in  unbroken  ranks,  bearing  from  wcst-by-south  to  southeast-by-south. 
At  four,  the  weather  very  thick,  stood  to  the  northward  and  eastward ; 
water  discoloured:  at  the  time  of  taking  the  above  last  bearings,  our 
view  not  extending  beyond  a  few  miles. 

At  six  o'clock,  weather  lighting  up,  discovered  field-ice  distant 
about  four  milcij,  bearing  from  southeast  to  east  per  compTss,  passing 
through  floating  ice.     At  eight,  lowered  the  foresail,  and  hove-to  head 


APPENDIX. 


411 


March  „.,  ,„„„.,„  „,  ,,,erir;:i:r,  r';*vT'"r; 

••hronometcr,  103°  34'  W      a»  r         ,.         ,  '  ""     "    f^-,  longitude, 
»nd  „,  »„„„•„,  .1,0  ,ie'  ,  r^rfi^tTT'"**^^"?"'^ 
w»r,l,  to  go,  clear  „f  ,|,„  „„,,!,   vS  "c     tl  "''  '°  "'"  ""'"'■ 

po»i>i„„  „.|,ich  we  fcl.  c„„Me„,  w„     T,  1:    "  ,„'^  "  "'"""'"«  '"" 
the  westward,  wp  kont  nfT  „.    i     m  ^  ^    °  "^  '^"  "Pen  sea  to 

A.  ,eve„,  saw  L  ce'^el.d  , !  "° "'/'1'""e  "^  ""J"  '"  <1-  oa-'-ward. 

rience  had  already  i„f„r„„d  S  «,\f,,,tr' ^t''*-™' '"'''" 
presence)  extending  far  r„„nd  JZZe:^'^  mTT .1  T 
water  d  scolourcd    and   mnn,r  ;  wesuvard.     At  eight  o'clock, 

.cceunted  for'The  ll^Z^^Z:  *:;"  Td'";"'™"  -•  "''■='> 
seven.     The  wind  hoin™  <•  •         j  J  '^"    '''^^'"   presented   at 

(Hvoortlree  ;  e,  vl^L'^o  ,  '"r  ^?  "^  '^  ^^^^^^  ^'«'--. 
the  islands,  and  at  4  .  r      "^^^^^^^^  through 

•continued  until  eight  whellr^  T  "■""'  ^'^^^  ^"°*«=  ^'^is  we 
foresail,  with     c  int  ntTon  of  .  "'^'""'''  ""^  '«^^«'-^''  ^^e 

o-n-selv;  .ve*lr'!rbov:TS;if '"°  "^  night,  flattering 
hopes  were  blasted  in  the  bud     i,\n       ^  "°""'   ^"''  «'»''•  «"r 

-  at  all.  Having  l:^^,;:  .r.i"':  "  T  ^'  ^°"'^  "«' 
"nfailing  indication  of  ice  to  leeward  h^  /';'  '"^  ''^^''"°  ^^^^  ^he 
hauled  over  the  iib-shce^  and  7  .'  f  '^^'^'  '"'  "^°^^  reluctantly 
fe'ale,  with  a  rising  sea  '""'"'  ''^  ^'"'  ^^°"  '''"-'--d  to  a 

March  22d,  latitude,  at  meridian,  about  70°  «^     I       s    , 
W.     From  meridian  to  fnn,-  f..  i  u  '  '^'"S'tU'Ie  101°  10' 

weather  lighting  1  ^  ten" M'"''""'"'^'  "''"'^•'  '^''^  --'  ^he 
innumerable  ice°isld  "o  o  I'Tl"^.  "  "  '"  "  '^'  '"^^^^  ^'• 
passage  between  them'tloursi^  wtt  "  "^"'^  f"''''"^  "«  "^ 
and  bear  away  for  thir  een  o?  he!  Tt°  f  '  "'  T"  """^'^'^  '"  '"«' 
the  northward  and  westvvar  1  S'm/  IZ'  '""^'"°  '^''''  '^'^'  »« 
direction,  and  close  around"  '  ''^''  ""  '''■''■^■'^^'  ^  ^^y 

.o:;^X::^^;^;i::^!;::i^^^^^^^  -^  -po-  the 

^he  Wind  was  still  .esh,  and  the  wiS:;:^^"^  to  tS^ 


412 


APPENDIX 


vviini  and  eastward,  and  wlioii  in  donht,  hovc-to,  lo  windward  ot'  ixu 
island,  and  driitt^d  down  in  its  wako;  vvlion  lir.ding  a  i>assa;j;o  clfar. 
would  again  fall  back  on  our  own  resources,  (lal  sails  and  a  pilot- 
boat's  bottom. 

The  weather  grew  thicker  and  intensely  cold,  lliough  the  thornio- 
meter  did  not  fall  below  HO" ;  I  attributed  these  changes  to  the  ice  ii» 
windward^  and,  believing  we  wore  getting  into  a  clear  sea,  1  stepped 
beli>w  lo  slick  my  toes  in  the  stove.  I  had  not  been  below  certainlv 
live  niinntes,  when  llu!  look-out  called  to  me  that  the  log  had  lilu-d, 
and  that  we  were. surrounded.  I  juni|)ed  on  deck,  and  sii(di  was  too 
truly  the  case:  narrow  lields  of  ice,  with  narrow  passages  of  water 
between,  and  extendi  ig  longitudinally  in  a  direction  i)erpen<licular  U> 
the  wind,  formed  a  complete  circle  round  lis,  stretcliing  in  all  direc- 
tions as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  and  b(;yond,  icebergs,  i)a(dieil  and 
floating  ice.  I  did  not  know  at  Hrst  how  1  should  |)roc(;ed  ;  but,  after 
a  careful  look  round,  1  ran  over  to  the  weather  shore  of  the  pond,  and 
stood  along  it  in  search  of  a  passage,  that  f  could  not  Und  ;  but. 
observing  at  intervals  "  sutures"  in  the  ice.  where  it  did  not  appeal 
rtrudy  formed,  I  resolved  to  take  advantage  of  Ibis,  and,  if  possilijc. 
force  a  passage,  feeling  it  nei^ossary  at  all  hazards,  to  extricate  our- 
selves as  soon  as  possible.  Having  the  wind  free,  I  gave  her  the  main- 
sheet,  and  manned  it  well,  and  having  got  about  six  knots  way  on  Ikm', 
kept  close  to  the  ice,  and  when  at  the  proper  distance,  i)ut  the  helm 
down,  hauled  the  main-shed  forcibly  to  windward,  and  let  lly  (he 
head-sheets  ;  this  brought  her  round  siiddeidy,  before  she  had  passed 
through  suilicient  water  to  deaden  her  way ;  the  ice  cracked,  w(^ 
slipped  over,  or  brushed  through,  and  before  eight  o'clock  1  had  got 
into  a  tolerably  clear  sea.  The  weather  again  growing  thick,  ihc 
wind  freshening,  and  sea  getting  up,  fatigued  with  labour  and  anxiety. 
we  hove-to,  under  the  foresail  with  the  bonnet  oil";  and  I  believe  all 
must  have  returned  thanks  to  Heaven  for  their  deliverance. 

BVoni  eight  to  meridian,  fresh  gales  and  weather  very  thick,  with 
innumerable  ice-islands,  which  we  fre(|U(!ntly  passed  at  a  dangerous 
proximity,  owing  lo  their  number,  and  t>ur  limited  vision, — tlie  s(;a 
breaking  on  them  with  the  roar  of  thunder,  and  lo  the  height  (jf  eighty 
to  one  hundred  feet ;  I  do  not  believe  a  ship  could  have  passed  these 
dangers ;  frefjuently  we  felt  cramped  in  stays  or  in  waring.  At  ten, 
the  sea  tolerably  clear,  again  stood  to  the  southward  and  westward. 
At  meridian,  obliged  to  haul  to  the  westward,  many  icebergs,  and 
floating  ice  in  large  masses  around  us.  At  I  v.  m.,  weather  clearing  a 
little,  discovered  a  fr  Jd  ahead ;  wore  to  the  southward  and  westward. 
Until  midnight,  working  to  the  northward  and  westward,  many  islands, 


^ 


loosp  trnrfM,  nnri  n, 


'<•    Ih!    Illllt!    1 


A  r  r  |.;  n  d  i  x. 

loatintT  "<'«'  piissiiifr;  w,.,illi,T  yiMUMallv  s..  thick 


<>  s('(i  (wo  liimdicl   (('(It.     !«' 


4ia 


lis  iiol 


twciity-fivi^  isliUKls.     A I  10''  1 


lain  cijrlit   f,,  Mli.llli^rlil,  |,„hm<mI 


the  i 


('(> 


oloaicr 


M 


•MiMiiliii^    from    soniliwrsf 
siiilsiiml  ri,u,i,'iiM!;  slid' with  ic,,, 


"'"',  \v<-iilh(«r  clear  lor  a  nIioM  | 


'<»   iiorlhcast. 


inii) ;  Haw 


A<    iui<liii^lit,   Hcix 


W. 


'■'•Ii  '-'.*»<i.  Iritiliidc.  „t 


iiif 


IS  (lay  (he  wcatluir  has  l.(.,.|i  c| 


■'•''''"".  "'""'in!)"  17' S..|„„pi„„|„|„on 


Al  <layli<,'lil.  inlcii(lc(<   \n 


\cuiv.v  ihiiii  i; 


about  tl 
o'clock.  w1 


'opinp   away  to  fix   posiiio,,  ..f  (ici.i-,,.,,    | 


'""  ''"'•'  th<.  weather  !.ocu„,o  very  thick  ;  I 


:ur 


>«'iii((  iiiii(>  |ias(. 


lilt 


'U'li,  110  |)ro.s|H!c|  of  ihn  weather  c| 


ward  and  (Mislward,     Tl 


I>!issn,i,'r  of  (loatinp;  !,•,>  an<f  i,-el 


N<'a   iKiw  liccamc   (olcrnliiv  <'l 


iiv(slo  until  s(!V((n 
iiriii^r,  Niood  to  thr  tK.rlh- 


JiHijht  look-out.     !i,  tho  all 


'<'ri,'s  still  d(<volvcd  the 


l«'ar,  v«l   tin; 


IIIMM'Hsity  of  a 


ward,   and    for   threes    I 


"inoon,  stood   to  (he  soiilhward  and  cast- 


s'' .'JO'n. 


liscovor.id  lar^r,,  masscts  of 


'•'iirs    ohscrvfd    appearances  of  land;    I 


lilt  at 


six,  the  ic(!  Ijon;  fi 


'""•   south  to  e,,s(,  siandiii-'  to  II 


'<•<%  mid  niitneroiiN  ir(!|)er^rN.     At 


<^•lslward;  uai.M- ,nnc|.  .lisrojonred.     At  ii.i.I 
iinllianlly  illiitniiiaNrd  by  th 


i'>  niirlhward  and 


IM 


W.     1' 


"'•<'li*-*«th,lalilnd 


ff'  niirora  aiislrah'H. 


m>;lil.  th«!  soiiIIkmii  I 


lon/.oti 


foil) 


f. 


•-•;  '<'  inni.lian,  about  (HC  00'  S.,  longitude  m"  Mr 


■iiiow 


'"■  •<•  "iglit   had    niodernto   norll 


;    \v(>alher  hazy.     Vr 


liwestftrly  winds,   will 


with  !i  li.Nivy  fall  of  snow;  (irsl 


om    (M^'ht    to    meridian,   inoderato  hi 


|iiantilif;s  of  floatinpr  i,.,..     /^^   j„i, 


pnri  passi'd  many  iceb(.r^r,s,  „,„l  | 


'(!(3Z()N. 


<ir  packed  and  brok 

■Ml  directions,  and  which,  by  tl 


.•«)"' 


lariM 


•«<' 


K'lt   siidd(Mily  into   laim)  field 


!ar(M-  s 


"|"';"._oxlendin«  m  far  as  the  rye  c,on|,|  reaci 

'"'^'^"•"'•"  '•'■  »li«  Hriow,  (which,  in  til 


I,  III 


bo 


1-tS  hu.l  nnd.stnrbed  on  the  snrfac,..)  ai.peared 


loniins,'  solid;  tho  sea  was  cut  off  by  the  | 


to  be 


rapK 


iiy 


and  to  a 


M   t 


o  our  a 


liniu  in  forcing,'  out  to  windward 


nxiely  the  wind  appeare<|  dec! 


voss(M   sr;emin<>'    i| 
ii'arfiil  that  Ikt 


IS  on   the  fori 


ir«(!r  masses  to  windward, 
iniii^:   we  lost  no 


-ronstrncted  for   hiicI,    roii-.h  .-on! 


n(;r  occasion.     Tlin 


lb 


copper  would  be  cut  lhroi,^r|,, 
p;in!-cabin  b.srihs   to  proserve  it ;   but  «f| 


tiHions,  and    vc 


ry 


water,  iIk;  sea  became  too  | 
lliink  w(!  could  spare  the  t 
niid  surh  was  the  ftci 


"no  to   <'r.\   thei 


•illiT  we  cleared   il,  it  I 


w'ral  (»pi„io„  on  boanl,  ihal  wilhin  a  si 


istinct  occasicdiH  narrowly 


'•^'"itne  a   firm   fieM  of 


vv(!  cut  up  the  [)ourds  in 

or  g(!llin^r   i„(„  rieiirer 

>"■■  within  the  (iiild   r  did  not 

"  "11.     I  am  well  convinced, 

lort   lime 


'oavy,  and  while  within  the  (iiild   \  did 


ice 


want  of  fu(!|,  tl 
lions  for  su(;li 


esc  a 


pcd  I 


II 


avin;^   on   two 


lei 


A'<""'ral  niifiltiess  of  tin;   vcssi! 
'"  <-"i<'rgen(!y,  my  "  Inslrift 


ii;,'  <dos(!d   ill  \,y  the  i, 


our 


and  want  of  pn^para- 


mipcnonsly  to  return;  and   I   put  o„r  h,.ad 
■"i'|od  to  keep   it  so  until  we  should  c| 
''hHi  m   pn,j,cr  ambition   lo  <^ca   bey.m.l 


ions     ca 


to  tl 


lied 


upon  me  most 


le   northward,  rlei(.r- 

'"•'i^'o  our  (emperatun;;  which, 

^ond  previous  navigators,  I  did  tlw! 


4H 


APPENDIX. 


less  reliir.taiitly,  as  I  felt  confident  the  soason  for  operations  in  these 
latitudes  had  ah'cady  passed, — the  sun  being  ah'eady  in  nortliern 
declination,  and  little  assistance  to  be  expected  from  the  moon  and 
stars. 

On  the  25th  of  March  I  fell  iiv  with  you  again,  sir.  It  had  been  mv 
intention  that  day  at  noon  to  stand  to  the  eastward,  and,  if  I  found  the 
sea  sunicionlly  clear,  to  pass  to  the  southward  and  eastward  of  the 
island  of  Peter  I.,  in  quest  of  the  western  extremity  of  Palmer's  T.and. 
and  thence  to  execute  what  siiould  remain  unexecuted  of  my  "  Instruc- 
tions," with  which  you  are  well  aciiuainted. 

Fearful  of  an  early  sci)aration  from  you,  in  the  thick  weather  now 
so  prevalent  in  these  latitudes,  I  have  hurrie<lly  drawn  up  this  report, 
which  I  trust  will  excuse  its  deficiency  in  minute  details,  for  which  \ 
beg  leave  to  refer  you  to  my  journal  (which  I  shall  lose  no  time  in 
submitting  to  you),  and  to  the  log-book,  and  other  journals  of  the 
schooner. 

I  cannot  close,  sir,  without  expressing  my  entire  satisfaction  with 
the  conduct  of  the  crew  of  the  schooner ;  they  have  now  been  wet  for 
thirty  days,  suflering  from  cold,  and  frequently  covered  with  ice  and 
snow  ;  indeed,  in  my  experience,  I  have  never  known  men  subjected 
to  equal  hardships.  From  such  causes,  from  two  to  three  of  the 
number  have  generally  been  unfit  for  duty ;  nevertheless,  the  remainder 
have  displayed  an  enthusiasm  for  the  service  in  which  they  have  been 
engaged,  and  have  performed  their  duties  with  a  cheerfulness  and 
alacrity  that,  if  equalled,  I  have  never  seen  surpassed.  I  confidenily 
trust  that  you  will  so  represent  their  conduct  to  the  commander-in- 
chief,  that  it  may  be  distinguished  by  a  i)ublic  ex])ression  of  his  ap])ro- 
bation. 

In  conclusion,  sir,  I  must  acknowledge  my  indebtedness  to  the  skill 
and  experience  of  Mr.  Knox^  and  the  ready  attention  of  Mr.  Ilam- 
mersly,  from  whom  I  have  received  the  most  hearty  (;o-operation. 

Very  respectfully,  yours,  &c., 

(Signed)        William  jM.  VVAf-Kicit, 

Conimaiuliriff  U.  S.  .Srhooiicr  Flying-FiHh 
WiixiAM  L.  Hudson,  Esq., 

Commanding  U.  S.  Ship  Peacock,  and  Scliooner  Flying-Fisli. 


In  looking  over  this  communication,  I  believe  it  better  to  state  that 
the  appearance  noticed  in  the  ice,  and  of  which  I  have  made  mention 
on  the  third  page,  amounted  to  a  deep  earthy  stain.  I  cannot  pretend 
to  account  for  it. 


A  V  l»  i:  N  D  I  X. 


415 


XXXI  I. 


s 


HI, 


V.  S.  Sliip  VitK'diiiKiH, 

Oriiiiffd  IliirlMmr,  April  17tli,  1839. 


You  will  await  horo,  until  tl...  2;M  i„,sia.,i,  f,,,-  ll 


lioliol 


and  wliiiii  slio  an 


IVOS 


tlio  gonllenion  wiioni  I.ionlonant-C 


It!  arrival  of  iho 
>  you  will  inwnodiiilcly  rocoivo  on  |,„iinl 


the  Sca-Cnll.     Y 


and 


or  orders 


ou  will  allord  tlusin  llio  host  possil.I 


)Mniiandant  Long  may  transfer  t 


l)i(>.-.eed  with  all  despateh  to   Vali)araiso,  wl 


'y 

le  uccoinniodation, 
here  you  will  find  ino 


Should  the  llelief  not 


will 


arrive  horo  on  or  I.elore  ihe  2:U\  instant,  yon 


|)rof.oe(l  on  the  y.llh,  without  dolay,  lo  V^al| 


lou  wdl  report  to   Iaent<!iiant-( 


laraiso. 


and 
six  h 
It- 
passengers  on  hoard,  with  as  lilllo  do] 


show  him  (his  order,  alter  which  your  detent 
ours,  as  it  is  itnportant  yon  should  rcMich  Valpar 
you  slu)uld  discover  the  Uolief  od*,  you  will 


'onimandant  Long,  on  his  arrival. 


ion  nnist  not  ex(!eed 


iiso. 


nin  out  to  take  the 


Should  she  not  arrive 


\y  as  ])ossil)l(;. 


orders  I'or  Lieutenanl-{, 
Island. 


rASHKD  Mid.  J.  W.  R  Rkio. 


on  or  hefore  the  2'.Ul 


onimandant   Long   on   t 


.  you   will  d(!posit   ihe 


iH!   sunnnit  of   Burnt 


I 


iUM,  rospoetfully, 


'UA.'tr.Ks 


w 


ir.Ki;s. 


Comiimiuliii};  Kjploring  IOx(M!(litioii. 


Commanding  Siiu-(Jull. 


XXX  I II. 


'or 


OKNiaur-  ORDKR. 

The  ofr.ccrs  of  the  Exploring  Expedition  will  trans.nit  to  me,  on 
the  receipt  of  this  order,  sueh  collections  of  shells,  specimens.  .Vr..,  as 
they  may  have  made  since  !,,  .i„g  ,he  United  States,  with  lists  of  the 
same,  for  the  purpose  of  having  them  pla,.3d  in  a  proper  stale-  ( 
preservation  and  safe  keeping. 

It  is  presumed  that  each  oflicor  has  availed  himself  of  every  onnor 
tnnity  of  a.rliiig,  hy  individual  collections,  this  most  important  rle.art 
ment  ol  the  Expedition. 

CllARMM   Wif.KIIh, 

U.  a  Ship  VindonnoH,  C.mmamlii.g  KxiAwmi;  KxiH'diti.,., 

Orango  Ifarl.our,  rvrrn  dal  Fui^go, 
April  IGtIi,  1839. 


i 


416 


APPENDIX. 


GENERAL  INSTUUCTIONS  IN  RELATION    TO    THE  COLLECTION  AND  PRESERVATION 
OF  SPECIMENS,  SHELLS,  ETC. 

The  undersigned,  commanding  the  Exploring  Expedition,  has 
examined  the  collections  called  for  by  him,  and  finds,  with  much 
regret  and  mortification,  that  few  or  none  have  been  made. 

The  object  of  this  communication  is  to  avoid  any  misapprehension 
hereafter,  in  regard  to  the  orders  heretofore  given  by  the  Navy  Depart- 
ment and  myself,  requiring  the  collection  and  preservation  of  all  shells, 
specimens,  &c. 

To  the  country  belong  all  our  labours,  and  it  being  the  earnest  wish 
of  the  government,  that  as  large  and  extensive  collections  as  possible 
be  introduced  into  the  United  States  by  the  Exploring  Expedition,  it  is 
the  duty,  and  should  be  the  wish  of  every  officer,  to  afford  all  the  aid 
in  his  power  in  efl'ecting  this  object. 

Any  selfish  ideas  of  accumulating  for  ourselves,  I  trust  are  laid  aside, 
particularly  when  it  is  considered  that  the  opportunity  of  eflecting  this 
object  will  be  much  greater  by  united  and  general  collections  and 
preservations,  as  all  which  are  left,  after  the  government  are  supplied, 
would  undoubtedly  be  returned  to  those  who  had  collected  them,  if 
desired,  in  preference  to  others. 

It  is  believed,  that  with  proper  exertions  and  attention,  a  sufficient 
number  can  be  obtained  during  the  cruise,  to  supply  every  one  who 
may  desire  it,  from  the  general  collection. 

No  expense  or  means  will  be  spared  by  me  on  the  part  of  the 
government,  to  place  every  article  in  the  most  secure  state  of  preser- 
vation and  safe  keeping ;  this  could  not  be  done,  if  all  specimens  are 
retained  by  the  persons  collecting  them. 

1st.  Hereafter,  each  officer  will  avail  himself  of  every  opportunity 
of  making  collections,  on  shore  and  afloat,  and  transmit  them  to  the 
commander,  or  such  person  as  he  may  designate,  who  will  cause  them 
to  be  cleaned  or  arranged  for  safe  keeping,  and  lists  will  accompany 
them,  with  the  name  of  the  person  who  collected  them. 

2d.  All  specimens,  shells,  &c.,  (in  no  case  exceeding  one  hundred,) 
will  be  required  if  they  can  be  obtained. 

3d.  The  cost  of  any  article  purchased  will  be  refunded,  should  it  be 
wanted  by  the  government.  Valuable  and  rare  shells,  seldom  met  with, 
will  of  course  be  retained  by  the  government. 

4th.  The  Naturalists  wHl  have  every  opportunity  afforded  them,  of 
examining  and  describing  any  fish,  shells,  &c.,  as  soon  as  taken. 

These  arrangements  will,  it  is  hoped,  produce  the  desired  co-opera- 
tion, and  will    insure   sucrfss;    not  only  meeting   the   view   of  the 


APPENDIX. 


417 


country,  but  also  holding  out  to  individuals  the  only  way  in  which 
they  can  be  sure  of  procuring  so  desirable  an  end,  as  a  complete 
collection  of  all  those  obtained  by  the  diflerent  vessels. 

(Signed)         Charlks  Wilkes, 
U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes,  Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

Orange  Harbour,  Terra  del  Fuego, 
April  18Ui,  1839. 


Sir, 


U.  S.  Ship  Vinconnos, 

Valparaiso,  May  17th,  1839. 


I  enclose  herewith  the  general  instructions  relative  to  the  collection 
and  preservation  of  specimens,  shells,  &c.,  for  the  information  and 
government  of  the  officers  of  the  Peacock,  under  your  command. 

bome  suitable  person  on  board  will  be  selected  to  preserve  all  articles 
that  may  hereafter  be  obtained. 

I  wish  to  call  the  attention  of  the  officers  of  the  squadron  to  the 
duties  required  of  them  at  every  port  we  may  visit,  in  relation  to 
making  and  noting  observations,  &c. 

To  each  and  all  of  us  attaches  the  obligation,  not  only  of  making 
collections,  but  furnishing  descriptions  of  foreign  countries,  and  people, 
their  manners,  customs,  and  inhabitants,  their  climate,  soil,  and  pro- 
ductions w.th  the  many  instructive  and  interesting  incidents  which 
are  afforded  us. 

The  government  expects  and  requires  this  of  all  officers  attached  to 
the  Exploring  Expedition,  in  addition  to  their  other  duties;  and  I 
trust  that  no  opportunity  will  be  omitted  in  complying  with  all  that  is 
required  or  expected. 

I  am,  &c., 

Charles  Wilkes, 
Captain  Wm.  L.  Hudson,  Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

U.  S.  Ship  Peacock. 
Lieut.  Com.  C.  RiNoaoLD, 

U.  S.  Brig  Porpoise. 


1:S: 


Sir, — 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

May  25th,  1839. 


You  will  proceed  to  the  port  of  Callao,  with  ail  possible  despatch. 
The  Bouqueron  Passage  is  recommended  to  you  to  enter  by,  as  it  will 
save  you  much  time.  You  will  anchor  at  the  island  of  San  Lorenzo, 
near  the  wharf  usually  occupied  by  the  Pacific  Squadron.     You  have 

VOL.  I.  8K  52 


418 


APPENDIX. 


permission  to  lilt  the  bowsprit  of  the  brig,  ami  ciuieuvuur  to  discover 
and  stop  the  leak ;  this  must  bo  done  with  all  possible  exj)edition,  as 
you  must  be  ready  to  sail  in  five  days  after  my  arrival  there. 

You  will  deliver   the   enclosed  orders  to  Lieutenaat-(\)inmandani 
Long,  of  the  Relief. 

Every  exertion  is  expected  from  yourself  and  olliccrs  to  elFcct  this 
object,  in  the  speedy  accomplishment  of  your  repairs,  whilst  laying  at 
the  island  of  San  Lorenzo.  You  will  bo  very  part!-  •  .-.. 
Iiourly  observations  of  the  temperature  of  the  air  an  .    . 

Two  boats  of  the  squadron  will  tow  you  to  sea  to-i.  . 
at  daylight. 

Yours,  very  respectfully, 

CiiAiir.Ks  Wilkes, 

L.KUT.  Com.  C.  RmaaoLD.  Con.manding  Exploring  Ex,K,dilion 

Conimaiiding  Porpoiac. 


n  roiiiju  dic 


tw  mormi'i: 


XXXIV. 


Sir,— 


U,  S.  Ship  Vinconncs, 

ValparaiHo,  May  3Ut,  1839. 


In  consequence  of  the  contemplated  changes  which  have  become 
necessary,  you  are  hereby  appointed  commander  of  the  United  States 
Schooner  Sea-Gull,  one  of  the  vessels  attached  to  tlie  Exploring 
Squadron  (under  my  command),  until  further  ordfcrs. 

Your  compensation  will  be  the  same  as  the  lieutenants  commanding 
brigs  and  schooners  on  the  csast  survey,  when  the  Exploring  Expedi- 
tion left  the  United  States,  which  will  include  all  expenses  while  on 
shore  or  afloat. 

I  have  directed  Passed  Midshipman  Reid  to  report  to  you. 

I  am,  &c., 

Chakles  Wilkes, 
Lieut.  Com.  T.  T.  Craven.  Commanding  Exploring  Ex,K3diaom 

Valparaiso. 


r 


SlR,^ 


U.  S.  Ship  VincenncB, 

Valparaiso,  Juno  1st,  1839. 


You  will  remain  at  Valparaiso  until  the  arrival  of  the  schooner 
Sea-Gull,  one  of  the  vessels  of  the  Exploring  Squadron,  expected  here 
hourly. 


A  P  I'  !■:  N  I)  I  X 


419 


On  her  arrival.  yo„  u  II  supply  I,,-,-  willi  all  p..ssil.!o  .lospaf(^l.  by 
rc.,„,s,.,ons  ,)„  the  navy  a-.-nt,  with  all  the  ontlits,  ri-iring,  stores,  an.l 
provisK.ns,  (which  you  cannot  more  conveniently  obtain  at  Callao  ) 
when  yon  will  i^rn.ee.l  .Jireet  to  Calluo ;  where  yon  will  (in.l  mo,  or 
onlers  with  the  navy  a.^ent,  .lireclini,'  yonr  Inrther  movements. 

You  will  also  prn.-me  any  funds  you  may  re.iuire  from  the  nav\ 
agent  on  rcquisilinn  an.l  receipts,  an.l  will  furnish  me  with  a  statomcn'l 
oi  the  amount  r.n-eiv.'.l  an.l  .lishurse.l  .luring  your  separation. 

It  IS  necessary  you  shonl.l  join  me  at  (\.llao.  as  soon  as  i.racfical.h- 
I  frnst,  tlK.refore,  3,,,.  will  have  every  article  rea.ly  to  be  put  on  board 
iac  Sea-Guli  the  first  day  artcr  her  arrival,  and  sail  the  succeeding 

facillr''''  '"'''''"''''"'  '""■ ''""'"''  ^-  ^'-  "•''''''"•  ^'«l-  t"  "fTord  you  every 

I  am,  (fee, 

Chaiu.ks  Wir.KES, 
L.«UT.  Co«.  T.  T.  Cr*v,n.  Commarwli,,^  Exploring  Kx,K„litio„ 

Valparaiso. 


Sir,— 


Nary  Dopartmont, 

Docomh(!r  9tli,  183!). 


The  Department  has  observe.!  in  the  newspapers  a  notice  of  your 
gallant  and  successful  ctlbrts  in  rescuing  a  portion  of  the  crew  of  the 
Chilian  sloop-of-war  Mont..>guedo,  which,  it  appears,  was  wrecked  in 
the  harbour  of  Valparaiso,  during  the  gale  of  the  24th  and  25th  of 
July  last. 

Although  you  have  already  enjoyed  the  highest  reward  of  your 
exertions,  in  the  success  which  crowned  them,  it  would  not  do  justice 
to  Its  own  feelings,  .lid  it  refrain  from  expressing  to  you  its  admiration 
of  the  fearless  self-devotion  displayed  by  you  on  that  occasion,  and 
which  is  alike  honourable  to  yourself,  to  the  service,  and  to  your 
country. 

I  am,  very  respectfully, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)      J.  K.  Paulding. 

LlEUTKNANT  T.  T.  CrAVKW, 

United  StatcH  Exploring  ExiH;dit«on. 


420 


APPENDIX. 


XXXV. 


GENERAL  ORDEO. 


The  undersigned,  commanding  the  Exploring  Expedition,  has  de- 
ferred acknowledging  the  great  gratification  he  has  received  from  the 
reports  of  the  commanders  of  the  diF-rent  vessels  respecting  the 
officers  and  crews,  during  their  late  arduous  cruise,  and  takes  this 
opportunity,  not  only  to  offer  them  his  thanks,  but  to  assure  them  that 
he  has  duly  represented  the  same  to  the  government ;  and  feels  great 
confidence  that  in  the  coming  service  they  will  show  an  equal  alacrity 
and  obedience  to  their  officers,  and  a  determination  to  carry  out  the 
views  of  the  government  and  the  country. 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 
U.  S,  Ship  Vincennes, 

June  15th,  1839. 


XXXVI. 


Sir,— 


U.  S.  Ship  VincenneB, 

Harbour  of  Callao,  June  20th,  1839. 


In  consequence  of  the  changes  which  have  become  necessary  in  the 
Exploring  Squadron  (under  my  command),  you  are  hereby  appointed 
commander  of  the  United  States  Schooner  Flying-Fish,  one  of  the 
vessels  attached  to  the  same,  until  further  orders. 

Your  compensation  will  be  the  same  as  the  lieutenants  commanding 
schooners  on  the  coast  survey,  when  the  Exploring  Squadron  left  the 
United  States,  which  will  include  all  expenses  while  on  shore  and 
afloat. 

I  have  appointed  Passed  Midshipman  Knox  an  Acting-Master,  with 
orders  to  report  to  you  for  duty  on  board  the  Flying-Fish. 

I  am,  &c., 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition, 
Lieut.  Com.  R.  F.  Pinkney, 

U.  S.  Schooner  Flying-Fish. 


APPENDIX. 


421 


XXXVII. 


OGNERAL  ORDERS. 

The  undersigned,  commanding  the  Exploring  Expedition,  has  atten- 
lively  examined  the  proceedings  of  the  Naval  Court  of  Inquiry,  relative 
to  the  detention  of  the  boat  at  Good  Success  Bay,  in  March  last,  and 
the  conduct  of  Lieutenant  Dale,  who  was  in  charge  of  her. 

In  the  opinion  of  the  court  he  concurs  ;  having  been  an  eye-witness 
to  the  principal  transactions,  and  believes  that  the  whole  difficulty  and 
detention  of  the  boat  arose  and  was  occasioned  by  the  inexperience  of 
Lieutenant  Dale  in  managing  a  boat  in  the  surf:  the  mode  of  using 
the  ample  means  he  had;  a  want  of  determined  perseverance  to 
execute  his  orders ;  and  some  procrastination  in  effecting  his  progress 
through  'he  surf;  being  influenced  by  the  timidity  of  some  of  those  with 
him,  arising  from  the  novelty  of  the  situation  they  were  placed  in. 

In  consideration  of  the  remarkably  long  confinement  of  Lieutenant 
Dale  under  suspension,  and  being  fully  impressed  with  the  opinion  of 
the  court  relative  to  his  good  conduct  and  attention  to  the  men  during 
his  detention  on  shore;  he  is  restored  to  duty,  and  will  resume  hi° 
duties  accordingly. 

The  undersigned  takes  this  opportunity  to  impress  upon  all  under  his 
command,  the  great  necessity  of  adhering  strictly  to  and  carrying 
orders  into  execution,  and  of  obtaining  information  relative  to  the 
best  modes  of  surmounting  difficulties  before  encountering  them ;  also, 
to  provide  themselves  fully  with  the  means  necessary  to  execute 
orders ;  and  all  those  who  may  be  passengers  in  boats  to  abstain  from 
-ntorfering  or  giving  advice,  unless  it  is  asked,— as  many  delays  and 
difficulties  may  thus  be  avoided. 

He  cannot  refrain  from  expressing  the  high  opinion  he  has  of  the 
conduct  of  Lieutenant  Hartstein;  also,  of  John  Moore  (quarter-master), 
Francis  Williams  (boatswain's  mate),  and  Samuel  Stretch  (quarter- 
master), who  volunteered  in  the  attempt  to  afford  assistance  to  the 
party  on  shore,  and  he  desires  to  return  them  his  thanks  for  theii 
conduct. 

The  Naval  Court  of  Inquiry,  of  which  Captain  William  L.  Hudson 
is  President,  is  hereby  dissolved. 

Charles  Wilkes, 
U.  S.  Ship  Vincennts,  •     Co'"'"'»'ding  Exploring  Expedition 

Callao,  Juno  20th,  1839 


8K8 


422 


APPENDIX. 


XXXVIII. 


Sib, — 


I'.  S.  Ship  Viiiconnca, 

Hiirboiir  iif  (.'iillao,  Juno  83(1,  1839. 


Wc,  (he  iinilcrsigncd  ofliccrs  of  the  Exploring  Expedition,  undo 
your  command,  respcetfuily  take  tlic  liberty  of  addressing  you  on  the 
subject  of  those  ofTiccrs  who  have  incurred  your  displeasure  in  consc- 
quence  of  having  been  engaged  in  a  duel;  and  whom,  it  is  understoo.l, 
you  mtend  sending  to  the  United  States,  with  a  recommendation  to  tlio 
proper  authority  that  they  may  be  dismissed  the  service. 

We  are  very  far  from  arrogating  to  ourselves  the  right  of  discussing 
the  propriety  of  any  course  you  may  think  proper  to  adoi)t,  with  regard 
to  those  gentlemen;  but,  when  wc  consider  the  youth  and  inexperience 
of  the  parties,  wo  arc  convinced  that  the  affair  was  entered  into  with- 
out proper  reflection  upon  the  ill  cflcct  that  such  conduct  would  have 
upon  the  reputation  and  cfRcienc)  of  the  service  upon  wliioh  we  arc 
engaged,  and  that  the  decided  expression  of  your  displeasure  will  be 
suflicient  to  deter  others  from  the  commission  of  a  similar  error ;  and 
we  respectfully  assure  you  that  it  would  be  the  source  of  great  grati- 
fication to  all  of  us  if  you  could  render  it  consistent  wit!i  your  duties 
and  responsibilities,  as  the  com.nnnder  of  the  Expedition,  to  overlook 
the  offence  against  the  discipline  of  the  service,  of  which  those  ofTicers 
have  been  guilty,  and  restore  them  to  thoir  duty. 
We  have  the  honour  to  be,  very  respectfully, 

(Signed,      Robert  F.  Pinknkv,  T.ieutcnant-Cominandant 

Overton  Carr,  Jiieutenant. 

James  Alden,  Lieutenant. 

A.  Ludlow  Case,  Lieutenant. 

O,  H.  Perry,  Li»^utenant. 

John  B.  Dale,  Lieutenant. 

James  II.  North,  yVcting-Mastcr. 

AuGUSTi  >  A.  Baldwin,  Acting-Master. 

George  .  '.  Emmons,  Lieutenant. 

Thomas  A.  Budd,  Lieutenant. 

Samuel  R.  Knox,  Acting  Master. 

William  Spieden,  Purser. 

Ceorge  F.  Sinclair,  Acting-Master. 

Joseph*  A.  Underwood,  Lieutenant. 

II.  .T.  Hartstein,  Lieutenant. 


APPENDIX, 


(iKNElUr,  OIlDKn. 


423 


Having  rc,x.ive,l  u  strong  a,,|,lirati„n  from  all  the  oHlcors  of  the 

»U  \n.-  ,1, at  so  rnnarkai.lo  a  circumstan.-,)  as  tl.o  m.a.mnons  mil  of 
n  I  c,r  son,ors.  with  thoir  ..lodges  that  tho  reputation  of  ,h.  ,.",,' 
H  all  not  sunor  from  tho  repetition  of  a  like  oc<.n-ron<.,     a        b.      ' 

"o.nnst  tor.st  a  st.gma  n,,on  the  reputation  of  tho  sm.a.lron  an.l 
^7Z  Z  ""    ''"•""■;"""  '"^  ""^'•^•'^^^  "^  •""  ^-y  »^-- '!  I -- 

ami  just  fy  n.y  proc,.o,h,..s,  I  have  cleternn-necl  nmlcr  all  tho  rirc.r 
stan<-..s  to  rclan.  iIkmu  in  the  s.,,!a.lron. 

IWHMil.hipmc.^ 
Henry,  w.II  therefore  rejoin  the  Peacock  forthwith. 

CuAiir,  :s  Wir.KKs, 
U.  8.  Hliip  VinconnoB,  Commanding  Exploring  Expedition, 

(.'idiuo,  Juno  a-ld,  1839. 


X  X  X  J  X. 


CI 

iSltt, — 


U.  S.  Sliip  VinccnncB, 

Callao,  July  lltli,  1839. 


toM^  "''Ct     n^    '  '"r"^"-^"''  ''  ^'"^  port,  proceed  direct 
to  Ma  a va.  IJay,  lain  i.  Society  Islands,  pursuing  the  following  route 

.Wngu  course  -hat  will  take  you  in  or  ahout  the  lon^kude 

105    W.,  to  the  latitude  of  20^  S..  which  latitude  you  will  pu^    e  un 

you  a    ni  with  the  I  ow  Archipelago,  and  continue  thereo a  un  I  yo 

.each  the  longitude  of  l.'M^  W.,  where  you  will  haul  to  the  nortv-u- 

8  as.,  longitude  13(5°  W..  the  latter,  or  Se.le  Island,  in  latitude  18" 
05  S  longitucie  1.7;  W.  The  French  and  English  di^Tl^r  a  rctect 
the  -situation  of  this  island.  ' 

From  thence  you  will  stand  again  t.,  the  southward,  pcssin-  in  the 
...tude  of  20"  S.,  to  see  if  Turnbul-'s  Island  does  exis  :  ti^s'ill  , 
!k.«  m  latitude  20°  10' S.,  longitude  H.r  W. ;  thence  yoi^^il       , 
and  run  over  San  Pablo  Isle,  another  doubtful  one,  L    a       I     20' 
S..  and  longitude  H.r  W..  and  from  thence  to  Matavai  B.y  there 
you  w.    find  me  o..  letters  with  the  A.nerican  consul,  directing  yo 
I  jrtner  movements.  &  j"^"' 


Ifi 


A  P  P  K  N  D  I  X. 

In  the  OV..M,  of  ,1,0  Soa-Cnll  ,nrivi„K  "O.-r  n....M,.,  ..f  ,hi,  |,„..,-  vu,, 
w.ll  l.,.n.sl,  |,or  ,.,   Val,,..n.iso  wi.h  all  ...vossarv  a,-,i..I..s.  a  .! 

her  n>,M,  ..,..  ,,.,.  „.e  i„,...,,,,,  .ervi.-o.     AlU-r  hav^in^  ........o.. 

you  w.ll  i,.s..  „.,  ,.„...  i.,  ,,.,.,.,.,,i„,,  .,„  „,^.  ^^„„^,  ^^J;    J^^  2T 

Vonr  nnn.t.o,,  is  particularly  rallo.l  ...  iMv..s.ip,li„K  any  Ml..,«|,"rcvr 
or  .«la,.,l  that  y..„  n.ay  fall  i„  .i.h.not  duly  r.,.rts..u,n|  ou  v..u 
.akm,  a.unu,    hoariugs.  who„  y.u.  have  .Inn-miu.-.l  v-ur  iualion! 

>o    u.ll  at  once  uu.k.  a  m|ui,s.,io„  ou  Iho  navy  a^.-nt  for  ll.a,  puriK.H. 
getting      0  lalesl  and  ,|.o  best;  I  l.avo  writ....  t<ri.i,u  a.von  i  I    ! 

YcHMvill.  Of  course,  n>u,inuo  .ho  us,.al  ..hsorvations  „f  ,o,n,,c,r„ture. 
&c..  and  ac.,u,ro  as  .nuoh  i.,fornm,ion  on  y.„.r  rou,.  as  you  n'n 

nn^  t  iZ  'i' ""  ""'f "" ""  '"'"^  '""'•''  '^^""  ^^"'^"  '•-  ■""•""- 

o    loin  ..  ""'  •'"'"  ''."''  I-"'i-i"»  to  return  to  the  lF„i,od  S.atcs. 

or  jo.n  the  sqund.-ou  ou  Iho  I'a.-ilio  Station,  whi.-hovor  n.ay  s,.it  you 

with  nny  chanoo   ol   success;    ,hero(o.-o    I    do   not   consider   n.vsol 
authonze..  to  incur  the  expc.se.  and  devote  the  ti.ne  oflZlfCl^u. 
so  vague  u  prospect  of  service.  ^ 

Wishing  you  II  pleasant  and  prosperous  passage, 

I  am,  «fec., 

("nARI.KS  WlI,KES, 

LiKUT.  Com.  T.  T.  Craven,  ConimiindiMj;  Exploriiiif  KjtiH^diti.,!,. 

Vnlparaiao. 

Sinnlar  instructions  vve,-o  given  to  Lieutenant-ro,ruua.ulant  Craven 
.It  C  ullao,  omitting  those  parts  .-elating  to  Valparaiso. 


Sm,- 


U.  8.  Sliip  VincciinoH, 

Harbour  of  Cailao,  July  llth,  laii). 


\ou  W.ll  avoid  by  all  moans-  in  your  power  a  separation;  in  the 
CAeut  of  s.ich  an  occasion,  you  will  steer  for  the  island  of  St.  Paul's 
or  ns  supposed  locality;  thenco  to  the  island  of  Minerva  or  Clermont' 
.le  lonnerre.  in  latitude  18°  32'  S.,  longitude  UHV>  W. ;  then  haulin. 
to  the  northwa..d  to  make  the  Isle  of  Disappointment ;  thence  1,  Ict: 
Ceorges  Group  Waterla.„lt  T,and,  and  Dean's  Island;  and  froir! 
thence  to  Matavai  Bay  in  the  island  of  Tahiti. 

You  will  at  e,ch  of  these  places  make  some  stay,  and  remain  at 
Matava.  Bay  until  von  hear  from  .ne. 


A  r  I'  !•:  N  III  X 


lyr. 


Vnii  will  |,!iy  imili.'dhir  lllli'iltioii  In  nil  yniir  i.lisrrMilioils.  Jillil  lllilKc 
.1  liill  rMiiiiiiiiilii.il  ofiiny  iliiii^  yn\  miiy  liiH  in  with. 

.  *'"  >\ ■  '"''^"l  "I  M'lliiviii  liay.  yoil  will  Ims.^  i...  ii,„..  in  nLiniiiin^ 

si;j;liis  r.ir  yiir  (•hniiiiinit'tfrs  on  slmri'.  on  V.-miH  I'.. int. 

I  am,  vVc., 

("iiAiiMis  Wii,ki;m, 
»'»n*iN  irn.woN,  romm,.n.llMtr  l'N|'l-.riM,r  INHilinii. 

I'rili'rM'k. 

I«IKItir.NANI'.<'l)»1M*Nll*NT  RlNdUIII.H, 

I'ol'IKliNII. 
FilltlirKNANT.C  'OIMMANIIANT  I'lNKNKV, 

n>illK-Fi«ll. 


\I.. 


Sill.— 


n.  H.  Slii|i  ViiicniiiiB, 

Ciilliio,  .Inly  I'Jili,  |H3!). 


Y..II  will  |.ror,M-,l  Cnmi  lliis  port  („  O.il.ii,  S,m<Kvirli  Fslnii.ls.  I,il(ii„r 
m  3-<>iir  nmlc  the  Aincricaii  Cn.iii.  nf  islaii.ls.  in  l'ililiii|(<  |n"  10'  iv' 
l..|.iritu.lo  1:M"  :,(»•  W.  'ri„.s.!  islaiKlH  liav.!  I,,„,„  inisii.T.^Msrully  I.m.Iu.I 
lor  by  ("apiain  flm-JKiy,  in  this  |.n.sili..ii ;  yon  will  ihcn-lon,  n.ak.-  il„. 
laliln.l,.  in  |,.a-il.Ml.)  i:i(l'  W.,  to  lli<3„aslwanl  ..ri|„,ir  siip,,„Ho,l  silnalion 
and  mil  al-n-  n  „nii|  y„n  n-u-'Ii  I  lO"  W.  :-|Ih-i„-(.  ,lin,r(  („  ( ),,!„,. 

On  y...ir  arrival  Micro,  yuii  will  Icav.,  in  cliar^.j  ..ni,,,  nnilcl  Stal.<H 
Consnl.  I'.  A.  Ilrisinu.lc,  Hs.|..  all  of  ll,,-  ;ulir|,-H  ..n  l.oanl  nfll..-  KrlJH' 
l..'l"n-i,nr  ,„  ,|„,  Mx|.|orin-  Hx,H.liti„n,  ..vrq.linsr  ci^r|„  n...nll,s' i.n.vi- 
sinns  (..r  y.M.r  r.rc^v,  an.l  siin.lry  arli.-l.;s  of  provisions  an.l  s(on,s  to  |„. 
aiulo.l  at  Sy.lnoy,  i\.>w  Soi.lli  VValos,  a-refalily  (o  the  lists  .ai,-|os,.,| 
liorowilli. 

You  will  lako  from  tlio  rons.,1  rc-cipts  for  tlu-  provisions  whirl, 
y.M.  may  lan.l  for  mo  at  Sy.lncy ;  yon  will  r<:,|nin,.  hi,,,,  „|so,  to  have 
Iw.Mh.n  sof  tlio  llonr  (rosorving  ih.,  Kil„-,lri,:,|)  yoinldiv.-r  him.  I,al<..l 
and  Hiady  lor  thu  siiiiadron  oarly  in  tlic;  sprin^^r. 

Aftor  nMnainin,.  at^  Oahn  flftoon  .lays,  you  will  procml  diror.t  to 
Sydi.oy,  J\.w  Sonlh  VVal.,-s,  passin-  throujrh  the  didJnTnt  arrhipoja^ors 
us  you  may  doom  most  oxpodionl,  and  as 
your  arrival   at   Sydnoy,  you  will  I 
Unilt;d  SlaN^s  (;onsiil  ihoio.  all   d"- 


Ih 


10  wiikIh  will  p(Tmit.  ()/| 
<'!ivo  in  ohari^'o  of  J.  If.  Williams, 
provisions  and  slonis  named  in  tlio 


11,1,'  roooipts  for  thoni,  which 


list  luji-owilh  marked  "  for  Sydnoy,"  tal. 

you  will  loavc  onolos..d  for  mo,  and  n.,|„ost  hi,,,  ul  hav;  ono"lm'nd;"..d 
hands  of  iho  llonr  (rosorvin-  Iho  kiln-driod)  baked  into  hard  bread, 
for  tlio  s(|nadron,  as  soon  as  <'onvoiii(!nt. 


VOL.  I. 


5'd 


420 


APPENDIX. 


AIku-  laniiiiig  all  the  articles  at  Sydney,  you  will  lake  on  board 
sidlicieiit  ballasi,  and  procc'od,  via  Capo  Horn,  to  tlio  United  States, 
stoppinjj  at  Rio  do  Janeiro  if  you  retjuire  any  provisions,  stores,  or 
slop  cldtiiinu;,  wliicii  y  )u  will  obtain  by  re(|uisitions  on  the  navy  store- 
keeper tli(M-o.  Vou  will  not  remain  at  Ilio  d(!  Janeiro  over  ten  da\  s, 
and  will  proceed  to  Noriolk  or  New  York,  the  latter  if  the  season  will 
permit,  to  enable  you  to  dispose  of  the  specimens,  in  regard  to  which 
you  have  sepanite  orders  enclosed,  and  to  which  I  request  your  parti- 
cular attention. 

You  will  take  cliargc  of,  and  send  to  the  Navy  Department,  the  log- 
books of  the  Siinadron  sent  home  by  you. 

You  will,  during  the  cruise,  take  on  board  the  Relief,  and  ship,  all 
distressed  American  seamen  whom  you  may  meet  with. 

On  your  arrival  in  the  United  States,  yon  will  show  these  orders  to 
the  commander  of  the  station,  and  report  by  letter  through  him,  to  the 
Honourable  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  enclosing  him  a  copy  of  them, 
as  he  has  been  rcciuested  to  direct  the  payment  of  your  ollicers  and 
crew  by  the  jiurser  of  the  station,  to  whom  you  will  deliver  the  rolls 
and  accounts,  with  a  statement  of  the  money  and  slops  advanced  by 
you,  that  the  same  may  be  (checked,  taking  rec,ei|)tfi  for  the  same,  as 
ollsets  to  the  amount  furnished  you  here  in  money  and  slop  clothin". 

You  will  keep  a  correct  muster-roll  of  your  ollicers  and  vsv.\\, 
noting  any  changes. 

You  will  nuiuire  from  the  ollicers  all  their  journals,  specimens,  &,c., 
agreeably  to  the  instructions  of  the  Navy  Department ;  all  of  which 
you  will  box  up  and  deposit  at  the  Navy  Department. 

I  enclose  letters  for  the  Consuls  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and 
Sydney.  Any  expenses  they  may  incur  on  the  stores  will  bo  refunded 
on  my  arrival. 

Should  the  Consul  and  Vice-Consul  at  Sydney  be  absent,  you  will 
call  on  Messrs.  Edwards  and  Hunt. 

If  j)ossible,  you  will  anchor  in  the  inner  harbour  at  Oahu. 

You  will  leave  for  trie,  with  the  Consul  at  Sydney,  a  report  of  your 
cruise  from  this  place  to  Sydney;  and  you  will  on  your  arrival  at 
home,  forward  to  the  Honourable  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  under 
cover  to  me,  a  report  of  the  proceedings  of  the  Relief  from  Sydney 
to  the  United  States,  addressed  to  me  at  Washington. 

I  am,  &c., 

('uAiir.Ks  Wir.KKs, 

Communding  Exploring  Ex|iudilion. 
Lieut.  Com.  A.  K.  Long, 

Relief 


A  r  !•  K  N  I)  I  X. 


497 


V.  8.  Slii|(  Viiinmiiuw, 

At  Scu,  July  Klili,  |h:I!». 
With  a  viow  of  avoi.liMg  any  inisappn^hoiisi,,,.  in  r.Mranl  |„  ||,« 
.  "lu-s  ..i  tlu>  artists  atlad.o.l  lo  .1,.  JOxplorinK  J^lxpodition.  an.l  that 
I  .cr  servicxvs  an.l  tnn.>  nmy  In;  as  ns^fully  .n^UK.ul  as  possible.,  I  ,|„e,„ 
t  proper  to  slate,  tl.at  they  will  not  <.,n(ino  the.nsrlvrs  ..x.-lusivHy  lo 
any  |u.rticnlar  l.ranch,  vvilhont  .liroelions  Iron,  mc,  hul  will  .livi.lo  their 
duties  an.ong  the  .lillbrent  dopartn.ents  in  sneh  a  manner  as  n.ay  bo 
deemed  most  eonducive  to  tlie  intercsst  and  l,ene(it  of  the  whole. 

Very  resiJectliiliy,  Sir.., 

('nAi;i,i:s  Wii.kiw, 
Cominiindiiijf  ICxploriiig  lOxiHidiliim. 

ORDKKS  FOR  OIIHKIIVATIONS,  KT(!. 

The  following  arrangements  will.  Regard  to  ol,servali.,ns  will  |,e 
daily  att.MHied  to  on  hoanl  the  dilli,rent  vess.>is  of  the  s,,na.lron,  ,n.,l.-r 
the  dn-eetions  of  tlusir  resp.!etive  «H>mmanders:  rcttirns  will  he  n.ade 
to  rnc  weekly. 

1st.  The  lientenant,  passed  n.i.lsl.ip.nan,  and  mi.lshij.man,  of  the 
hrst  wateh  will  assist  the  master  i,.  the  forenoon  observations  for  ti.n(' 
and  azimuth. 

2d.  Those  of  the  inid-wat.^li  will  take  the  meridian  altitnde 
3d.  Those  of  the  morning  watch  will  assist  in  the  alternoon  obser- 
vations. 

4th.  The  odi.-ers  who  have  no  night-wateh  will  be  called  ur.on  for 
measuring  distances  dnring  tlu;  night. 

5th.  The  ...aster  will  be  informed  in  time,  when  opportunities  occur 
for  making  observations  for  amplitude,  in  the  mornmg  and  evening. 

(!th.   ihe  results  of  ea.;h  ollicer,  signed  by  him,  will  be  sent  to  the 
commander  <laily,  and  ent(;red  by  his  ,;lerk  in  a  book  of  observations 
who  wdl  note  the  time  when  retiuired. 

(Signed)        (Jhaui.ks  Wilkkh, 

U.  S.  Shij>  Vin.^rnncH,  Cominttiulinjr  Exi)lorinfir  Kx|H,dilion. 

At.Sfltt,  July  tfitli,  183f). 


Sni,- 


V.  S.  SIlip  VinconnftH, 

AtSoa,  AugiiHiSd,  1839. 


When  you  suppose  y«Hjr  vessel  at  her  designated  distance,  you  wil' 
hoist  your  ensign  fur  firing,  which  will  be  answered  as  soon  as  seen. 


P 


42S 


APPENDIX. 


It  is  believed  that  when  the  Vincennes'  masthead  subtends  an  angle 
of  25',  you  will  be  three  miles  from  her. 

After  the  signal  is  made  to  take  stations,  you  will  pursue  that  course 
which  will  lead  you  to  it  as  soon  as  possible. 

Immediately  after  the  signal  being  made  to  measure  azimuths, 
observations  will  be  taken  between  the  sun  and  vessels,  during  the 
taking  of  which  observations,  the  ship's  ensign  will  be  hoisted  at  the 
peak. 

You  will,  after  we  heave-to  for  the  night,  try  the  dipping-needles 
and  deep-sea  temperature. 

You  will  calculate  the  time,  so  as  to  be  near  the  flag-ship  at  night- 
fall, and  any  signals  that  are  made  will  be  repeated  to  the  vessel 
farthest  off.  In  case  of  appearance  of  bad  weather,  you  will  at  once 
draw  to  close  order  of  sailing  unless  otherwise  directed. 

It  is  desirable  that  all  calculations  should  be  made  before  the  day 
closes.     The  current  should  be  tried  daily,  either  morning  or  evening. 

I  am,  &c., 

Chakles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exjiloring  Expedition. 
Captain  Wm.  L.  Hudson, 

U.  S.  Ship  Peacock. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  August  8th,  1839. 

Captain  Hudson  will  assign  watches  to  the  scientific  gentlemen  and 
officers  who  are  usually  excused  from  watch,  on  the  nights  of  the  8th, 
9th,  and  10th  of  August.  One  quarter  of  the  heavens  will  be  assigned 
to  each  person,  who  will  note  at  once,  on  paper,  any  meteors  that  may 
appear,  viz.,  their  size  ;  with  or  without  train ;  their  height ;  the  points 
of  appearance  and  disappearance ;  and  the  time  of  flight. 

Although  it  may  seem  difficult  to  accomplish  all  of  this  on  a  meteor, 
yet  it  is  possible  and  even  easy,  viz.,  by  noting  the  star  of  the  constel- 
lation near  which  it  appears  and  disappears;  counting  until  its  dis- 
appearance ;  the  arc  may  be  accurately  ascertained  by  a  sextant ;  and 
the  bearing  of  the  two  stars,  its  true  direction  ;  the  counting  compared 
with  a  chronometer  will  be  the  true  time ;  and  yet  one  has  time  to 
examine  its  length  of  train,  brilliancy,  &c. 

Respectfully, 

Charles  Wilkes, 
Commanding  iixploring  Expedition. 


Similar    instructions    to 
Pinkney. 


Lieutenants-Commandant    Ringgold   and 


APPENDIX. 


429 


V.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 
-  At  Sea,  August  8th,  1839. 

the  following  officers  will  keen  watch  n„  'th  u  f  '^-"^"''' 

officers  of  tlTe  watch  in  maUi:|  oCt  Uo^ns"^  "'''"'  ^"'  ^^^^^^  ''^^ 

With  ihe  1st  watch,  Mr.  Couthouy  and  Mr.  Elliott. 

W  th  he  2d  watch,  Dr.  Pickering  and  Mr.  Howison. 

With  the  3d  watch,  Mr.  Drayton  and  Dr.  Fox. 

With  the  4th  watch.  Dr.  Gilchrist  and  Dr.  Whittle. 

to  examine  its  length  of  train,  brilliancy,  &c. 

Charles  Wilkes, 
Commandingr  Exploring  Expedition. 


MODE  OF  SURVEYING  THE  CORAL  ISLANDS. 

XS:  t  z  r°'  fir  ^-  *'^  pt'  ana^ :  s 

paiticularly    o  the  low  coral  islands,  together  with  an  example  to 
serve  as  an  illustrat  on  of  the  mode  in  which  it  was  carried  i„reffeJr 
In  consequence  of  the  time  that  could  be  allotted  to  such  examina 
nons  being  limited,  it  became  desirable  that  such  a  course  shouM  Te 
Z7.  '"/."\7^^«ys  as  should  unite  to  the  utmost  expedition  the 
greatest  at  ainable  accuracy.     A  method,  which  it  is  trusted  united 
these   requisites,  was,  therefore,   devised   and   comnHinicated   to  the 
officers  of   he  squadron  in  the  shape  of  a  syllabus.     In  this  I  pointed 
out  the  mode  of  operating,  and  it  was  recommended  to  their  study  in 
order  that  all  might  become  familiar  with  its  details.    The  basto 
this  method  rested  upon  the  measure  of  distances  by  sound.    For  tW 
we  hac.   ready  means   by  firing  guns  alternately  from  the  'Werent 


430 


APPENDIX. 


vessels,  nny  llivcfi  of  wliicli  In-ing  stutinnary,  iho  distances  niul  posi- 
tions of  objects  could  be  dotonniiied  iVoiii  them  by  direct  angles, 
giving  a  double  result,  or  by  the  angles  between  them,  taken  from  the 
shore  or  from  boats,  furnishing  data  for  the  j)robloii\  of  "  the  three 
points."  When  both  methods  can  be  applied  at  the  same  time,  it  is 
evident  that  tiie  utmost  accuracy  may  be  obtained.  Upon  the  land, 
by  employing  many  observers,  and  occupying  all  the  points  of  a 
trigonometric  survey  simultaneously,  the  whole  work  might  evidently 
be  completed  in  a  very  short  space  of  time ;  and  in  like  manner  upon 
the  water,  creating,  by  means  of  vessels  and  boats,  a  niimi)er  of 
artificial  stations  around  an  island,  measuring  angles  simultaneously  at 
them  all,  and  measuring  the  base  lines  by  sound,  the  rapidity  with 
which  a  survey  can  be  pr      rmed  is  equally  as  great. 

By  means  of  the  system  of  signals  i)repared  by  me  for  the  Exjjloring 
Expedition,  I  could  direct  the  vessels  to  assume  any  position  I  mi<'ht 
select  as  most  fit  for  our  purpose.  When  these  were  reached,  general 
but  minute  instructions,  directed  tiie  observations  that  were  to  be  taken 
at  each,  in  doing  which  there  was  no  ditliculty.  These  observations 
were  entered  upon  a  deck-board,  for  which  the  following  form  was 
prescribed : 


FORM  OF  DECK-BOARD. 


TIKE. 

POSITION. 

TIME. 

AZIMUTH 
OF   Q. 

LEFT-HAND 

ODJECT. 


CENTRE 
OBJECT. 


RIOHT-HAND 
OilJEUT. 


nEMAKKS. 


To  illustrate  still  further  the  mode  in  which  the  whole  squadron  was 
made  to  concur  in  obtaining  unity  of  action,  a  detail  of  a  survey  and 
a  plot  of  the  work  are  subjoined. 

On  approaching  the  island  to  be  surveyed,  signal  was  made  to 
prepare  for  surveying  duty ;  if  boats  were  to  be  used,  the  number  of 
them  and  the  vessels  whence  they  were  to  bo  despatched  was  next 
indicated;  and  finally,  the  position  rach  vessel  was  to  occupy  was 
shown.  The  \ossels  having  reached  their  assigned  places,  hove-to 
and  the  boats,  having  been  previously  despatched,  would  about  the 
same  time  have  anchored  in  their  assigned  stations,  at  the  points  of 
reefs,  and  hoisted  their  appropriate  signals.  The  vessel  that  is  first  to 
fire  a  gun  then  hoists  an  ensign  at  the  foremast-head,  which  is  answered 
by  all,  and  the  flag  is  in  like  manner  displayed  previous  to  each  sue 


>^i 


bo 

fin 


APP  RN  ni  X. 


l.'U 


cessivo  lire.  The  r.iing  ilion  goes  on  in  <,nick  succossion  from  nil  the 
vessels;  an.l  al  the  lin.e,  all  the  odirors  being  on  deek  for  the  purpose, 
angles  are  measured  l.elween  the  other  vessels  and  objects  on  tiio 
shore,  each  by  a  dillerent  observr,  as  ,lire,-t.>.l  an.l  in.Iicate.I  by  flu- 
oldest  ol licer  on  tho  dcek ;  these  angles,  together  with  those  made  by 
the  visual  tangents  to  the  shores,  have  always  been  foun.l  suflieicnt  to 
plot  Iron..  l),n-n.g  this  ..peration  tlu;  ensign  is  kept  hoisted  at  the  peak 
so  that  all  the  angles  may  be  taken  sin.ullaneonslv.  Altitudes  of  ih,! 
«un  for  time,  and  angles  xvhenee  to  ealeulat.!  the  a/imuth  of  some  on,^ 
of  the  ubjeets,  are  also  taken  inunediately  hoforo  or  after  tho  hori/onta! 
angles;  and  at  the  same  time,  the  allilu.le  and  azinuith  of  the  mast  of 
ono  of  the  ships  is  observed  for  the  purpose  of  defining  th.-ir  position. 

When  this  IS  done,  one  of  the  vessels  el-.ang.^s  Ium-  p.)silion,  whik,  the 
others  mauitain  theirs  by  manuuivriug  so  as  to  keep  tho  angles  between 
objects  on  the  shore  of  the  same  magnitude  ;  the  boats  bavin-  in  the  mean 
time  changed  theirs  also:  the  same  operations  are  then  rep.^ated. 

Of  such  an  operation,  the  annexed  wood-cut  is  an  example. 


1^1 


By  these  alternate  changes  in  the  .stations  of  the  several  vessels,  and 
boats  contmued  until  a  circuit  of  the  isiau.l  has  been  n.ade,  the  work  is 
hnished,  and  when  it  joins,  it  is  proved  by  the  last  distance  determined 


43U 


A  r  r  E  N  D I X. 


by  nzimullml  angles  niul  sound,  as  by  a  baso  of  vorifiralion.  The 
.lofk-boards  aro  now  sent  on  board  tlic  (lag-ship,  whoro  the  work  is 
calrnlatod  and  plotted. 

The  survtiy  of  tlio  island  thus  rcproscnltul,  which  is  about  sfvcn 
n\ilos  in  length,  was  porforinwl  in  throo  horns  and  thirty-Hv«!  niiniilos. 
It  begun,  ns  noted  on  tho  dot-k-boards,  at  1''  IH"'  v.  m.,  and  the  olworva- 
lions  closed  at  4''  5a'»  p.  m. 


INSTRUCTIONS  RKLATIVK  TO  THR  DKUK-BOARD. 

The  dook-bonrd  will  bo  kept  strictly  according  to  tho  formula  horo- 
with  sent. 

Tho  ofliccrs  of  the  deck  will  bo  particular  in  marking  tho  times  at 
which  any  of  the  vessels  change  their  posilior.,  and  tho  length  of  time 
they  remain  in  them  (by  ship's  time) ;  also  tho  times  that  tho  firing 
takes  place. 

Tho  measured  angles  will  bo  at  once  communicated  to  this  ship. 

Tho  original  deck-paper,  with  the  calculated  azimuth  results,  will  be 
sen;  to  me  at  the  expiration  of  the  day's  work,  a  copy  of  which  will 
be  made  previously,  and  kept  on  board. 

Tlic  particular  attention  of  tho  odiccrs  is  rociuired  to  tho  "  Instruc- 
tions for  Boat  Duty,  Surveying,  &c.,"  of  tho  22d  of  February,  1H3J>, 
also  to  tho  Manual  of  Surveying. 

CiiARLKs  Wilkes, 

„  „  „, .    „.  Cominmiding  Explorinir  ExiMiililioii. 

V.  S.  Ship  Vmconnos, 

At  Sea,  August  15lli,  1839. 


XLII. 


Sir, — 


U.  8.  Sliip  VinconnoH, 

At  Son,  AujruHt  S.ltli,  183!). 


I  was  surprised  to  notice  this  evening,  that  the  l)oats  from  the 
Peacock  wero  not  alongside  at  sunset,  as  there  arc  positive  wrillcn 
orders  to  that  eflcct,  unless  tho  boats  are  previously  recalled  by  signal. 

I  presume,  also,  that  tho  ollicers  of  the  boats  had  no  authority  from 
you  to  land,  although  I  saw  several  on  shore,  which  must  have  caused 
some  delay  in  regard  to  those  engaged  on  surveying  duty,  a  service 
second  to  none  in  the  Expedition ;  besides  hazarding  a  dimculty  with 


A  I'  V  K  N  I)  I  X. 


488 


''"'  ';""^""^'  'f'-^ «'"  '"->  o..ntsH„u,.|  nUo  n  .Inlay  fo  ||,.,  ,vho|« 

s(ina.lr..n,  us  tlioy  iiro  ovi.l.-nlly  |,„Hii|,.. 

,  '.  "";;  "  '^''"""•"  •"■'•'"•'• '"'  ^viil  not  ...„„.,  Mu.l..,-  ,„v  „.,li„„  „«„i„ 

•lining  iIk,  prosdiil  «TiiiN.).  '  *^    " 

"<  !<•'.-  Ilu.y   In.vo  tl.o  ,sl„|..  hikI  s.ri.-.ly  ,.|,oy...| ;  ..thnrwis.  ll,,.   i„(.„- 
••«.ur,so  will,  tl.o  iHlaiulH  iniisl  Ik,  roNlrirto.l. 

J  mil,  Ai(!., 

<'MAIII.i;rt   Wit.KKM, 
C^AM'.  Wm.  I,.  lliinNON,  noMiiniinillMB  l^l'lnriii/f  KhikmIHI,,,,, 

V.  H.  Hlii|i  IVnodok. 


X  r  J 1 1. 


n.  H.  Hlilji  ViiKwiimoK, 


H.c..KAK.n.;,t  no  H,u„.„„,.ns  of  ,.„n,|.  livo  „|,„||s.  or  any  .l.in-r  dsn  ,|„., 
n.ny  ,.ro,luc.o  a  I.a,l  sni.ll.  will  l,„  ,.,I<.n  l.olow  .1..  Hpni-.l..;;     „• 

'•'""'• '"  ;■'■'"";■' """"  "• "-  ••"'-'•  '•<• "  ^  'I."-!.,  who  will  M..  ,1 , , 

aropa...„M.I,,M,,,,,,,,,,.,.,ran.nna,p,.i„M^^ 

and  that  Huh  order  k  strictly  obuyod.  ' 


('haiimcn  Wif.Km, 
r'omrimri(lin^  l':«|.I<.rl.i,f  l':«)M.,|lti,„. 


X  I,  I  V. 


Siu, — 


V.  H.  Hlii|>  Vinrinrinod, 

At  Hon,  H(i(i|/imlK)r  lut,  IH.IIJ. 


You    will    pror,H>d    an,.,..!    ||,„    island    of   Ua,aka,  and   oMain  ,(h 
<lim.ais.ons,  as  u.dw.al.d   in  your  onl.as  of  yost.nlay,  .nrnin«  i,„  wo 

you   lo  t  yctorday.     Y.nr  .onr.s.s  and  di.stan.is  muHt  Iv,  lu  .,     .  '1 

Mcr  yon  sliall  l.avo  oxo.-.ntod  tins  duly,  yon  will  tlion  proceed  to  tiio 
K  '..lioast,  and  n,ak,  the  island  wo  discovered,  called  Taiara,  or  KkJ, 
Island,  an.l  steer  Iron,  there  l,y  daylight  a  northwest  course  ^ 

VOL.  I.  54 


434 


APPENDIX. 


You  Will  make  CarlshofT  Island,  and  from  thence  proceed  to  the 
ncrt,,  side  of  Prince  of  Wales  Island,  where  you  will  meet  me;  if  not, 
however,  you  will  determine  the  east  and  west  ends  of  it,  and  that  of 
Krusensfern's  Island  in  its  vicinity;  from  thence  you  will  proceed  to 
Matavai  Bay,  and  await  further  orders. 

I  am,  &c., 

CuARtEs  Wilkes, 
Lieut.  Com.  C.  Rinqqold,  Commanding  Exploring  ExpediUon. 

U.  S.  Bi'ig  Porpoiio, 


XLV. 


SlE,- 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  September  4th,  1839. 


You  will  proceed  to  windward,  and  visit  Oura  and  Tiokea  Islands, 
ot  King  George's  Group,  and  ascertain  their  correct  position,  and  the 
number  of  islands  composing  the  group.  From  thence  you  will 
proceed  by  Waterlandt  to  the  Prince  of  Wales  Island,  coasting  along 
the  northern  side,  and  taking  observations  as  required  by  my  orders  of 
the  1st  instant;  and  from  thence  to  Matavai  Bay  for  further  orders 

Should  you  arrive  at  Matavai  Bay  before  this  ship,  you  will  allow 
none  of  the  natives  to  remain  on  board  or  visit  the  Flying-Fish  after 
sunset. 

Your  vessel,  must  never  be  left  without  two  officers. 

I  am,  &c., 

Charles  Wilkes, 
L«uT.CoM.R.F.P,NKNKr,  Commanding  Exploring  Expedition, 

Flying-Fish. 


END  OF  THE  FIRSV  VOLUME. 


the 
not, 
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ition. 


19. 

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